Thank you so very much. 30 seconds to set my outfeed table to the correct height and weeks of problems solved! That example of the curved board you show is exactly what my "jointed" boards have been looking like. Not any more! Thank you so very much.
Bought a jointer this morning as I have hundreds of cheap, warped hardwood posts to 'straighten' - This video just taught me all I need to know! Awesome, cheers!
I very much enjoy all your videos. However, I do want to share a safety note on this video. I as you like using steel or machinist squares in my work. A while ago while using my joiner and squaring the vertical alignment with my metal square inadvertently left it on the horizontal face. It blended in with the “steel on steel” face. Without seeing it, I turned on the jointer and it was caught by the spinning blade launching it past my ear, close enough to draw blood. It continued past my head and embedded itself in my ceiling! After getting over the scary shakes, I tried to pull it out of the ceiling, however it found a ceiling joist behind the sheet rock and could not be easily removed. I still use steel squares but, they all have an added big yellow warning mark on them. Oh yes the square in the ceiling ie still there to remind me to be safe & triple check.
Just bought a 'good ole' ( heavy cast iron) pre loved (old) jointer and first try, it wasn't quite performing to my expectations. Your video showed me how to just tweak the height of the outfeed table (1/8 inch movement), it was set a bit too high, and ouala! now it works like a charm! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge!
I just put together my first jointer yesterday, found this video and thank you..... now I understand the next steps of checking the knives and the tables and the square...very helpful. and of course I like the comments, too, it alllll helps me.
Thanks for the blade adjustment tips. I never use my jointer because it seems like it never does what i would hope it would. It is definitely a tool of technique. So it would be informative to know 1) how much lower the infeed table should be, 2) which grain direction to push toward the blade, 3) where to apply the pressure with your hands, for example apply pressure on the infeed and let it rest on the outfeed, or switch pressure to the outfeed once there is enough room and drag it across, etc., and finally how many passed you actually took to remove that crown.
Thank you for the video. My friend came across a Rex cut jointer which was made in British Cloumbia it the mid 1970s. we had to make a base and find a motor for it. We have it running I was trying to fine tune it and your video was what I needed.
Thanks Colin I couldn’t figure out why the used jointer I bought seemed to cut the ends but not the middle. Now I know jointer blades are too low. Greetings from Maine.
Colin; Thanks for this excellent video, especially the part about setting the outfeed table with respect to the knives. I was always frustrated with my jointing results because my jointer would remove a huge amount from each end of the workpiece and virtually nothing in the middle. I tried varying my technique (more / less hand pressure at various places, etc) but nothing worked. In hindsight, the knives were too low vs the outfield table even though they looked right. I set my outfield table as you suggested, using a steel rule and having the knives engage the rule enough to move it a specific amount. On my 6" Delta bench top jointer (Model JT160), I had to adjust each individual knife to get the right setting, but in the end I immediately got much better results. Now I can perfect my results by focusing on my technique, knowing that the jointer is set correctly. Many thanks for restoring my enjoyment of my jointer.
Hey Collin, thank u for keeping people informed about using big machinery in woodworking. Your Video reminded me about using safety protection. Only safe is cool! FH22
GREAT video Colin! Easy 2 follow & understand. I just bought a new 6" jointer and excited about using it. I'm researching as much as possible. Safety is my PRIMARY goal! Have A Super Blessed Week!.....Gus
I really appreciate the way you explain things. Using the whiteboard graphics is tremendously helpful. It's like" planer 101", which is what most people are looking for, as opposed to other how-to videos which seem to be "advanced whatever", Thanks.
Thanks for the video. I was having trouble with my jointer and it was getting frustrating to the point I was about to give up on it. Everywhere I looked it said the blades needed to be even with the outfeed table. I adjusted them just like this video said and it worked perfectly.
Lessons learned about the jointer, in high school woodworking shop class (about 1966). Always check the setup first. Never try to joint anything less than 12 inches long. Always use push blocks. Safety glasses and hearing protection. Never work in a hurry. One memorable day, one of the shop teachers violated all of those rules. Short piece of wood, no push block, in a hurry. He sacrificed his right thumb to the jointer - presumably so we would have clear memory of the rules all these years later.
OMG that piece of wood looks like something i did my first weeks in boatbuilding school...LOLthese vids for beginners are great..we do things in the trade that we dont gjve a second thought to..but new people dont have a glue what or how to do things..
I have a delta as well. Can you do a quick video on how to adjust the fence to 90? Trying to figure out how to do that... as well as raise and lower my outfeed table. It is sitting too low.
I am new to woodworking but I have access to a public use wood shop. When I used the jointer, does it make a difference if I run my piece through it in one direction and then turn it around so that the back side is now the front side that I'm feeding it through and also should I use the planer for the crown instead of the jointer? Thanks!
Thanks for this video. I'm trying to adjust my Delta jointer 37-280 as you say with the blades just sightly higher than the outfeed table but can't figure out how to either raise the outfeed table or the knives. From what I can see only the infeed table is adjustable. I just got this jointer used. Thanks
I learned this at ENGAGED ENCOUNTER. "Please take this in the spirit it is intended. (compliment - truth) I love your videos. They are very informative and helpful. Thank-you. But I think your messages might engage more people if you made several slight improvements. 1. Microphone and echo. Investing in a wearable mic to reduce echo - as well as dampening material in your shop / studio. 2. Lighting. Tips from Matthias Wandel on lighting are excellent. 3. Rehearsed script. Don't hesitate to stop/backup and re-PERFORM a section if you flub or UH or UM. Filmora makes it effortless to edit out the flubs, UM or UH...' Thanks for listening. Thanks for sharing. .... ok, ready, set HATERS...GO!
What brand are your brass set up blocks/Where can I get some? Thanks for the video I have the same router and was have trouble getting it set up properly.
Colin, I'm a raw beginner but I'm enjoying your videos... now to make the beginner series better... tell me what a jointer is, what it does, and why I want one in my shop. It's all well and good to know how to use something, but if I don't know why I'd want to use it then what's the point? From watching this, I didn't see anything different than a name for a planer. Thanks!
Hey Bill, what a jointer gives you is a FLAT and SQUARE reference point from which you can perform other operations on the piece, depending upon what you want. The 1st pass shown in the video gives you a flat, consistent surface. If you then want a straight, flat, parallel, and evenly thick board, you can run that piece through a planer (flat side down) because you now have a consistent reference. The 2nd pass gives you a square (and flat) reference. This allows you to do things like use that flat, square edge against a table saw fence to rip the piece to the desired dimension and have the board be straight all the way through. I hope that helps!
So you never put the crown side of the lumber across the blades? And how much pressure, if any, are you putting on the board when you're running it over the blades? Thanks!
good video but i set the knives and then set the out feed table height to the blades so i dont get snipe. run two boards across your jointer and then put them face to face. if there are no gaps then you have your jointer correctly set. i do explain this on my own channel.
Question: Is it possible to use a 6" jointer to square up the surface of stock up to 12" by flipping the wood around and running it back through? Or will I get an uneven surface/tearout problems? (Haven't bought the jointer yet, but considering it.)
JohnFx I have seen this done but have not done this myself, though doing a full 12" wide may not be possible, but at least an 11" or a bit more. Most 6" jointers I have worked with don't quite joint the full 6 inches they are often a wee bit shy once they are set up ... just so you have a heads-up on that.
vaibhav Khandelwal You can do this a couple of ways and it depends how much "easing" you want. If just a small amount, I would just touch it up with some sandpaper, probably 120 grit. If you want more, a round-over bit in a router would work. There are many, many different radius to choose from and from many different manufacturers.
It looks like you have a delta 37-190 jointer or at least similar. So my question here is "How do you adjust the tables if they are not parallel? I have had one of these for a long time and the book that came with it doesn't show this. I've searched the web for it but to no avail. Thanks
i have a question? say i had a 4 inch think slab of hardwood and wanted to split in into 2 just under 2 inch thick slabs, how would one go about doing that without super expensive equipment? would it be possible to do with a chain saw or is there a specific type of handsaw i could buy? and as for a jointer, how much would one able to do something like a desk or bar top cost? or is there another power tool way of doing it?
i'm a complete novice, and i don't want to spend the money for a jointer, and planer.. do u think if i set up a movable fence on top somehow, that i could use the jointer as a planer.. i have yet to build either.. like i said i'm just getting into this.. i'm still a bit confused as to why a thickness planer leaves wood warped while a jointer does not.. having never used either.. i just got into this, because of some projects i got into, that evolved tangentally..
desalvo66 It is very difficult to get jointer to act like a planer, but it is possible to get planer to joint, so you may be better off with a planer. A thickness planer will only leave wood warped if it was warped when it was sent into the planer. The way a planer can joint is to find a very flat, probably 1 inch thick piece of MDF board to use as a base ... then put the board you want to joint on it and use hot melt glue to ship any gaps between the wood you are planing and the MDF. When you run this through your planer, you should end up with the top surface flat, you can then remove it from the MDF, flip it over and run it through the planer again. The one thing a planer may not be able to do is edge joint, but if you have a good table saw, with and excellent blade, you should be able to do that there. I am going to be doing video of this in the next few weeks ... hope this helps
you suggest 2 sheets paper high, what about some other postings that tell me to have the knives perfectly level with outfeed table. Which is best? why? Thanks for your help.
Rob White You can do either, the reason I like to have the knives slightly higher is because when they are even, there is a risk they fall below the outfeed, or with a bit usage, they fall below the outfeed and now there is no way you can get a flat planed board. If the knives are slightly above the outfeed, you will get a bit of snipe, which may or many not make any difference to what you are using the wood for, or it can be cut off. About the only time I really worry about snipe is when I am making rail and stile door frames, then I just trim it off. Often the ends of boards are split and need to be trimmed off, so always best to do this after planing regardless of where the knives are. lol ... in my opinion
Hi Collin, just started my woodworking adventure, and used my bench top jointer. For the first time yesterday after setting it all up, with disastrous results, followed the manual to the letter too, it told me to set the blades level with the out feed table, after 5 or 6 passes only the front of the timber was being shaved, it also said to keep my weight on the out-feed table, so frustrating I’ve so much recycled Oregon to use and want to get started, Help!!!
Thanks for the video. Love your stuff. Quick question though. If you're always running the wood through with the crown up, how do you get rid of the crown? I can see how that would make 1 side flat, but how do you then flatten the other side?
+Aaron Schrank Good question ... once the side that is being planed flat on the jointer is finished the board is normally run through a planer which then flattens the to and makes the board parallel from end to end
I had to look through the comments to find this. Seems like a "Duh" kind of answer, you might want to add that into the video somewhere though. Great video though!!!!!!
Hay buddy I just picked up a jointer so the first thing I did was to see if you had any videos on it and I am so glad you did looking at your jointer I think mine is the same Its a Delta 6in deluxe model jt360 I looked at it and I don't think it was ever used I paid 100 bucks did I get a good deal ? I ran 1 pcs of wood and got 1/2 inch snipe on 1 end so watching your video I am going try to get it out is their any other suggestion thanks as always my friend
+Charlie Wood I think $100 is a great deal, assuming your can get it working properly and there is nothing major wrong with it ... most jointers need some tweaking to work the way they should so don't be alarmed by that
+WoodWorkWeb Well buddy after watching your video and some other woodworkers videos I found the snipe was from the way I was pushing down on the wood I would like to thank you watching your video I learned so much I am new to woodworking just started 2 years ago I was a machinist for 30 plus years this is way different thanks again
Great video. Do you know why there are so many jointer accident stories? I found a great deal on one, but I keep reading about stories of horrible accidents. When I watch jointer videos they look far, far safer than table saw videos. Table saws can twist the material and kick it back violently at your head, due to the blade lifting and shooting the material upwards. Table saws with no riving knife seem far more dangerous and likely to create a severe accident. What is the number #1 cause of jointer accidents?
If I had to guess, the cause is just what you describe. People look at a jointer, think it looks really safe (unlike the big scary table saw) and take it as a license to do stupid things with it. Just a guess though
See my comment elsewhere in this thread. Even teachers can have bad days. Every power tool can and should be used safely. If used in an unsafe manner, any power tool can injure, maim or kill in less than th blink of an eye. Safety is always the responsibility of the person using the tool - nobody else can do your safety stuff for you. The same tthing about safety also applies to operating motor vehicles, watercraft, aircraft and a lot of other things. YOU are responsible for your own safety when you are operating them.
I have the exact same Delta Jointer you are using. I had two issues: 1) the boards were bowing expecially when the width was not the same and 2) despite anything I tried the blades were moving during operation. Usually one side lift up. I set the blades as per this video but can't stop the blades moving no matter how tight the retention bolts. Delta says not to overtighten those bolts. Is there any way to stop them from moving? Also is it even possible to join the edge of boards that are not the same width?
+David Clink Hi David, I'm not happy to hear your jointer knives are moving. That's not safe. I have mine snugged down pretty tight but have never had a problem with movement. Not sure what to tell you at this juncture. Sorry, I have read your statement about jointing boards not same width - a few times and I am not following the question, maybe you could re-phrase it.
Thanks for the video. But I think it would be helpful to actually describe how you are pushing the wood through the jointer. In other words what directions you are applying force and how much force you are applying. My understanding is that you should apply as little downwards force as necessary to grip the wood, as otherwise you will deform the wood and it will spring back on exiting the jointer. you should apply downwards force on the out feed table but not the infeed.
Exactly.... Took me a long time to understand what is no obvious, but I couldn't understand why I couldn't get good results... I was alternating between putting pressure on the in-feed and the out-feed.... Pulled a lot of hair and wasted a lot of wood before the obvious was obvious.... Out-feed length and stability is important too...
I bought a planer and now I am finding out I need a jointer. May I ask what kind of jointer are you using in the video. As a beginner which joiner would you recommend.
I'm a bit confused about the "moving the ruler an 1/8 inch" rule. Wouldn't the ideal be that you just barely touch the ruler? Or if you want to make a similar rule, "move the ruler a 1/64 inch"?
Hey ... if that works for you, absolutely. There are often different ways to achieve the same end, so if your method works for you, no point in changing it :)
The jointer shouldn't be used as a planer, the planer will make something flat and parallel to a reference edge and the jointer will simply make one face flat. More often than not you'll end up with two faces that are flat but not parallel by running them both over the jointer.
yes, this seems to be the case, infeed is perfect 90*, outfeed,,, not so much! Ive been doing everything I can think of, even checked the straightness of the fence with my $100 lee valley straight edge, apparently its straight but I still cant seem to get both sides at 90*...... The head scratching begins.
Rob White Yup ... this can be pretty frustrating. the only thing that I know of that can fix this is shims and this may not be pretty but you would have to ease off one of the sides of the infeed or outfeed table that you want to shim. For shim material I would suggest some sheet brass. Hard to find, but very thin and fairly easy to work with. With out being there, I would say you need to shim out one whole side and the sheet brass might be a perfect thickness, but you could check it ahead of time by using a small piece of the brass on top one of the table so see if it is the right height.
Running wood through with the crown side up cuts off only the "high" spots - where the board touches the table. Repeat until the jointer makes a clean straight cut along the whole board. (It helps to make pencil lines along the edge or face being jointed. When all of the pencil lines are gone, you are done. If you jointed an edge, you can make the opposite edge straight and parallell using a radial arm or table saw. Place the freshly jointed edge against the fence and adjust the saw to take off about the thickness of the blade, then push the board through. Repeat until that edge is straight. If you jointed a face, after one side is flat you can run the board through a planer (or drum sander) - with the new flat side DOWN - and plane it until it gets to the thickness you want. At that point the two faces will be flat and parallell. Or you can use a marking gauge to scribe lines close to the other face that are parallell to the flat face, then use hand planes to plane the wood down to the lines. (The pencil lines are really helpful here.) Start with the highest points and work on them until the board is flat. If a crowned or twisted board is only put through a planer (without flattening one face first) it will come out thinner but still with the twist or crown.
I finally got my table co-plane,,,, perfecto! So I was a happy guy to say the least. I will confess: taking apart the jointer, removing the infeed table to have it machined to half of 1/1000, (it was off by 35/1000) and then reassembling the entire machine,, "all by myself" was a challenge to say the lest. My lack of patience only adds to my problems. Ive got my fence tuned right in at 90* to the table but for some reason after planning the face then the side of a 2" X 4" X 5', the corner is NOT exactly 90*. The head scratching starts! Could this be due to one of my knives being too high? Any advice? thanks a lot.
Rob White One thing to check Rob, is the infeed and the outfeed BOTH at 90 degrees. I have used planers where when you set the fence to 90 degrees using the infeed table it's perfect, then when you check it with the outfeed table it is out a tiny bid. Let me know if that is any help Colin
My OUTFEED table (Delta 37-190) needs adjusting. I loosened the Lock Screw and tried turning the Hand Knob clock and counter-clockwise without effect. I supposed the Outfeed Table is supposed to be 'tight,' while it might also be adjustable as per the manual. In my case, I fear stripping the handle before I can move the out-feed table at all. I am not sure how that Hand Knob is fastened to the shaft it is attached to and don't want to risk breaking and parts that might prove irreplaceable (this is an old jointer). Before I try loosening the lock nuts that hold the Gib(s) which would certainly loosen things up - then require careful resetting (and a helper according to the manual) - I thought to ask you as it appears you have the same or a close relative of the 37-190. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
You don't have to adjust the outfeed table at all. You can rig up a set of magnets which attach to a square block and use it to set the blades accurately by adjusting
Push pads were needed on the first pass with the board laying flat as there was no easy way to grip the board firmly (and also at the same time keep your fingers well clear of the cutters. On the second pass there was a good gripping area at the top edge of the upright board, and with your hands centered there your fingers would not reach the cutters. I'm no expert, but this is what my logic tells me.
Great instructions. I just bought that same jointer on eBay, Delta #37-190 for $275. I picked it up on Saturday 1/30/16. It looks like it was never used. You video was and is so helpful. What year did you make the video?Thanks again
Everytime I use my jointer the trailing end of the wood comes out shorter than the leading edge. I have checked and my jointer seems to be aligne properly. What am I doing wrong.
This is a jointer. A planer is a similar idea of using saw blades to flatten a face, but the blades are above the wood and the assumption is that the face the wood is lying on is already flat (has already gone through a jointer). See video #8 in this series.
Good point Matt, I am going to do more on this later, not really enough time in this vid ... but, yes, if you can, joint with the grain, if you cannot (which is often the case) run against the grain, then flip it around and run one last pass with the grain, downhill as you say. Thanks again for mentioning, others will pick this up too :)
@@Dragonfly37b Yes, the jointer makes the wood flat on the side you run over the blades (the bottom side). The planer has blades on the top of the board you run through it, so if the bottom of the board is flat (which it is after jointing) the planer will shave off the top of the board until it is flat, too. (more accurately, the planer makes the top parallel with the bottom of the board) It took me a while to understand how the feeds and blades worked on wood for both pieces of equipment. Now I just have to buy them. :)
Hi Murray, as I skimmed over in the vid, once you have one face flat and one edge is at 90 degrees and also true, you can go to what ever machine you need, planer, table saw, bandsaw, router etc. really depends on what you are going to do with your wood.
Hi, thanks for the video! I am having some problems with my jointer. It is a small and fairly cheap model, but it is set up according to the manual. I have two issues. The first is that when I run my workpiece from the infeed table and in to the cutter head, the workpiece stops at the outfeed table. It grabs the edge of the outfeed table. I have double checked that the knife blades are aligned correctly. I also tried sanding very gently on the edge to create a bevel, and it seems to help but I don't want to continue if it is a bad idea. Is it? My other issue is that my pieces come out warped. I have tried applying pressure at the high spots, but the problem gets worse for every pass. Any tips would be highly appreciated! Thanks, Fred
soundiscomforting If, as you say, your jointer knives are even with or even slightly above your outfeed table ... a couple of things come to mind. It might be that your outfeed table is just too far away from the jointer knives ??? not sure on this, I am guessing a bit. The other thing that might be happening, is how much higher is the outfeed than the infeed table. I have mine set to a little less than 1/16 of an inch. I am just taking off a sliver of material each time. If you have the outfeed table too high, this could be a problem. Let me know how you make out ... Colin
WoodWorkWeb Thank you very much for helping me. I will take a closer look tomorrow (it's 11pm in Norway right now :) I am only taking off 1mm at each pass. I will recheck! Thanks
@@Mikdugal1 There were many issues with that jointer. But for the issue with the workpiece stopping I raised the knives ever so slightly (the thickness of masking tape) and that solved it. But the warping issue could not be fixed. It was caused by the tables not being properly aligned. The infeed and outfeed table was cast aluminium, but it wasn't flat nor coplanar. I even flattened them with a scraper, but the flimsy design of the machine didn't allow for the tables to be properly aligned. E.g. you can't shim that design. In the end I ended up getting a machine with a dovetail design. Now it just works. Sorry if that wasn't the news you wanted to hear :)
what are some examples of why i would want to use a jointer or planer? usually i just buy my lumber from the hardware store, cut to size and throw it together, so what are these fancy machines gain us?
Andrew A If you are buying rough lumber, these machines would be needed to plane and edge the boards but in your case you are purchasing finished lumber, which sounds like it is working fine for what you are doing.
Thank you so very much. 30 seconds to set my outfeed table to the correct height and weeks of problems solved! That example of the curved board you show is exactly what my "jointed" boards have been looking like. Not any more! Thank you so very much.
Bought a jointer this morning as I have hundreds of cheap, warped hardwood posts to 'straighten' - This video just taught me all I need to know! Awesome, cheers!
I very much enjoy all your videos. However, I do want to share a safety note on this video. I as you like using steel or machinist squares in my work. A while ago while using my joiner and squaring the vertical alignment with my metal square inadvertently left it on the horizontal face. It blended in with the “steel on steel” face. Without seeing it, I turned on the jointer and it was caught by the spinning blade launching it past my ear, close enough to draw blood. It continued past my head and embedded itself in my ceiling! After getting over the scary shakes, I tried to pull it out of the ceiling, however it found a ceiling joist behind the sheet rock and could not be easily removed. I still use steel squares but, they all have an added big yellow warning mark on them. Oh yes the square in the ceiling ie still there to remind me to be safe & triple check.
Wow, so simple! Thanks! I've had a delta jointer for about 15 years, gathering dust. But, I REALLY need it this weekend. This is a big help!
Just bought a 'good ole' ( heavy cast iron) pre loved (old) jointer and first try, it wasn't quite performing to my expectations. Your video showed me how to just tweak the height of the outfeed table (1/8 inch movement), it was set a bit too high, and ouala! now it works like a charm! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge!
I just put together my first jointer yesterday, found this video and thank you..... now I understand the next steps of checking the knives and the tables and the square...very helpful. and of course I like the comments, too, it alllll helps me.
+Susan Goodman Thanks for watching, I'm glad the video helped!
Answered all the questions I had I should have watched this before I tried using my jointer and using the manual thank you so much for your videos
Thanks a lot. I appreciate especially the part where you explain exactly how to set up the blades.
Thanks for the blade adjustment tips. I never use my jointer because it seems like it never does what i would hope it would. It is definitely a tool of technique. So it would be informative to know 1) how much lower the infeed table should be, 2) which grain direction to push toward the blade, 3) where to apply the pressure with your hands, for example apply pressure on the infeed and let it rest on the outfeed, or switch pressure to the outfeed once there is enough room and drag it across, etc., and finally how many passed you actually took to remove that crown.
Great stuff Colin. This series of videos you have chosen is sorely needed and they will really help a lot of us out with our woodworking.
Thanks Derek, and thanks for your assisting newcomers too :)
Thank you for the video. My friend came across a Rex cut jointer which was made in British Cloumbia it the mid 1970s. we had to make a base and find a motor for it. We have it running I was trying to fine tune it and your video was what I needed.
+David Schlosser Good work, and thanks for the info David
Thanks Colin I couldn’t figure out why the used jointer I bought seemed to cut the ends but not the middle. Now I know jointer blades are too low. Greetings from Maine.
Colin; Thanks for this excellent video, especially the part about setting the outfeed table with respect to the knives. I was always frustrated with my jointing results because my jointer would remove a huge amount from each end of the workpiece and virtually nothing in the middle. I tried varying my technique (more / less hand pressure at various places, etc) but nothing worked. In hindsight, the knives were too low vs the outfield table even though they looked right. I set my outfield table as you suggested, using a steel rule and having the knives engage the rule enough to move it a specific amount. On my 6" Delta bench top jointer (Model JT160), I had to adjust each individual knife to get the right setting, but in the end I immediately got much better results. Now I can perfect my results by focusing on my technique, knowing that the jointer is set correctly. Many thanks for restoring my enjoyment of my jointer.
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Thanks for writing this comment. Having some issues with my jointer now and then discouraged however your comment brings me hope.
Hey Collin, thank u for keeping people informed about using big machinery in woodworking. Your Video reminded me about using safety protection. Only safe is cool! FH22
Thanks for showing us how to do this! Can't wait to get started!
+Joel Owens (온조엘) Thanks for commenting Joel
Great video even to this day! Thank you, as I prepare to perform maintenance on my jointer.
GREAT video Colin! Easy 2 follow & understand. I just bought a new 6" jointer and excited about using it. I'm researching as much as possible. Safety is my PRIMARY goal! Have A Super Blessed Week!.....Gus
TheWoodWerker Thanks Gus, a jointer is great step forward for you, you will not be sorry you bought a jointer
phew, thank you for the video. i was getting quite frustrated why it was jointing so weird. works now :D
good stuff. I'm looking to add a jointer to my shop
I really appreciate the way you explain things. Using the whiteboard graphics is tremendously helpful. It's like" planer 101", which is what most people are looking for, as opposed to other how-to videos which seem to be "advanced whatever", Thanks.
+marty d Thanks for the feedback Marty ... I appreciate it
I never knew Mr. Deity was a woodworker! Great, informative video.
I'm not sure who Mr. Deity is, but thanks for watching drizzleFoot321
Thanks for the video. I was having trouble with my jointer and it was getting frustrating to the point I was about to give up on it. Everywhere I looked it said the blades needed to be even with the outfeed table. I adjusted them just like this video said and it worked perfectly.
Glad to hear ... thanks for the note
Thanks Colin. Keep them coming, please.
Thanks Eric
thank you Colin yet another very informative 5minutes I have learnt something today which makes my day worth while
Thanks Philip ... :)
thank you very much for explaining a joiner in an easy way. I really appreciate your videos!
Lessons learned about the jointer, in high school woodworking shop class (about 1966). Always check the setup first. Never try to joint anything less than 12 inches long. Always use push blocks. Safety glasses and hearing protection. Never work in a hurry. One memorable day, one of the shop teachers violated all of those rules. Short piece of wood, no push block, in a hurry. He sacrificed his right thumb to the jointer - presumably so we would have clear memory of the rules all these years later.
As always an excellent how to video!
You are excellent in explaining your videos . You remind me of my shop teacher . Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for the kind words, glad you enjoyed
great video Colin thanks so much
I love my jointer!
Well done!
This was very helpful! Thanks for posting this video
Thank You!
Hey Colin, it has to be said it's always very nice to see you also speak in mm, like the rest of the world! Thank you!! :)
thanks Ben ... I am going to work at trying to do more ... thanks Buddy :)
WoodWorkWeb This is PERFECT idea to provide info both - in inches AND mm's - thanks a lot for that Colin !
neuromanceru I'm working at it ... thanks for the feedback :)
Colin
OMG that piece of wood looks like something i did my first weeks in boatbuilding school...LOLthese vids for beginners are great..we do things in the trade that we dont gjve a second thought to..but new people dont have a glue what or how to do things..
lol ... sometimes I have to go looking for something nasty :)
Awesome video, thanks
Real source. Surplus of verbs missing. I like it.
I have a delta as well. Can you do a quick video on how to adjust the fence to 90? Trying to figure out how to do that... as well as raise and lower my outfeed table. It is sitting too low.
It sounded like halo 1 music was about to play in the intro lol
Lmao 100% that was the original halo score. Cool that he used it none the less
It was haha. One of the reasons I stayed to watch lol
Thanks for the video, this was very helpful
Does a great job
Great video why do you joint the face first and then the edge
I am new to woodworking but I have access to a public use wood shop. When I used the jointer, does it make a difference if I run my piece through it in one direction and then turn it around so that the back side is now the front side that I'm feeding it through and also should I use the planer for the crown instead of the jointer?
Thanks!
I really enjoy your "how to" videos, please continue with making more of them :)
I also like that you use mm as well ;)
Kenneth Fjelde Thanks Kenneth, really appreciate your feedback :)
Colin
Thanks for this video. I'm trying to adjust my Delta jointer 37-280 as you say with the blades just sightly higher than the outfeed table but can't figure out how to either raise the outfeed table or the knives. From what I can see only the infeed table is adjustable. I just got this jointer used. Thanks
If this a delta the outfeed table should be adjustable, not the knives. Look for handles and knobs.
I learned this at ENGAGED ENCOUNTER.
"Please take this in the spirit it is intended.
(compliment - truth)
I love your videos. They are very informative and helpful. Thank-you.
But I think your messages might engage more people if you made several slight improvements.
1. Microphone and echo. Investing in a wearable mic to reduce echo - as well as dampening material in your shop / studio.
2. Lighting. Tips from Matthias Wandel on lighting are excellent.
3. Rehearsed script. Don't hesitate to stop/backup and re-PERFORM a section if you flub or UH or UM.
Filmora makes it effortless to edit out the flubs, UM or UH...'
Thanks for listening. Thanks for sharing.
.... ok, ready, set HATERS...GO!
Love your channel. Thanks for your hard work. Wonderful explanations and clarity in demonstrations. Keep it up!
Thanks for the great comment!
What brand are your brass set up blocks/Where can I get some? Thanks for the video I have the same router and was have trouble getting it set up properly.
Thank you!!!!!!
Colin, I'm a raw beginner but I'm enjoying your videos... now to make the beginner series better... tell me what a jointer is, what it does, and why I want one in my shop. It's all well and good to know how to use something, but if I don't know why I'd want to use it then what's the point? From watching this, I didn't see anything different than a name for a planer.
Thanks!
Point taken, thanks BIll
Hey Bill, what a jointer gives you is a FLAT and SQUARE reference point from which you can perform other operations on the piece, depending upon what you want.
The 1st pass shown in the video gives you a flat, consistent surface. If you then want a straight, flat, parallel, and evenly thick board, you can run that piece through a planer (flat side down) because you now have a consistent reference.
The 2nd pass gives you a square (and flat) reference. This allows you to do things like use that flat, square edge against a table saw fence to rip the piece to the desired dimension and have the board be straight all the way through.
I hope that helps!
Yes, thanks!
Thanks!
Good tutorial, thanks!
Wood Working Appreciate you taking a moment to comment
Colin
great video!!
So you never put the crown side of the lumber across the blades? And how much pressure, if any, are you putting on the board when you're running it over the blades? Thanks!
good video but i set the knives and then set the out feed table height to the blades so i dont get snipe. run two boards across your jointer and then put them face to face. if there are no gaps then you have your jointer correctly set. i do explain this on my own channel.
Yup, that's an option that a few people use ... glad you related it for us :)
Question: Is it possible to use a 6" jointer to square up the surface of stock up to 12" by flipping the wood around and running it back through? Or will I get an uneven surface/tearout problems? (Haven't bought the jointer yet, but considering it.)
JohnFx I have seen this done but have not done this myself, though doing a full 12" wide may not be possible, but at least an 11" or a bit more. Most 6" jointers I have worked with don't quite joint the full 6 inches they are often a wee bit shy once they are set up ... just so you have a heads-up on that.
How do you know when to stop running the board across the jointer, will you no longer hear cutting, or what? Thanks.
Hi,
Really liked your video, it was very educating.
Can you tell me how to get eased edges on an exotic hardwood like Ipe.
vaibhav Khandelwal You can do this a couple of ways and it depends how much "easing" you want. If just a small amount, I would just touch it up with some sandpaper, probably 120 grit. If you want more, a round-over bit in a router would work. There are many, many different radius to choose from and from many different manufacturers.
It looks like you have a delta 37-190 jointer or at least similar. So my question here is "How do you adjust the tables if they are not parallel? I have had one of these for a long time and the book that came with it doesn't show this. I've searched the web for it but to no avail. Thanks
Ciao ho la stessa pialla Delta,presa usata... Di che anno potrebbe essere?.. Grazie.
i have a question? say i had a 4 inch think slab of hardwood and wanted to split in into 2 just under 2 inch thick slabs, how would one go about doing that without super expensive equipment? would it be possible to do with a chain saw or is there a specific type of handsaw i could buy?
and as for a jointer, how much would one able to do something like a desk or bar top cost? or is there another power tool way of doing it?
Table saw would be ideal.
i'm a complete novice, and i don't want to spend the money for a jointer, and planer.. do u think if i set up a movable fence on top somehow, that i could use the jointer as a planer.. i have yet to build either.. like i said i'm just getting into this.. i'm still a bit confused as to why a thickness planer leaves wood warped while a jointer does not.. having never used either.. i just got into this, because of some projects i got into, that evolved tangentally..
desalvo66 It is very difficult to get jointer to act like a planer, but it is possible to get planer to joint, so you may be better off with a planer. A thickness planer will only leave wood warped if it was warped when it was sent into the planer.
The way a planer can joint is to find a very flat, probably 1 inch thick piece of MDF board to use as a base ... then put the board you want to joint on it and use hot melt glue to ship any gaps between the wood you are planing and the MDF.
When you run this through your planer, you should end up with the top surface flat, you can then remove it from the MDF, flip it over and run it through the planer again.
The one thing a planer may not be able to do is edge joint, but if you have a good table saw, with and excellent blade, you should be able to do that there.
I am going to be doing video of this in the next few weeks ... hope this helps
Solved my problem
you suggest 2 sheets paper high, what about some other postings that tell me to have the knives perfectly level with outfeed table. Which is best? why?
Thanks for your help.
Rob White You can do either, the reason I like to have the knives slightly higher is because when they are even, there is a risk they fall below the outfeed, or with a bit usage, they fall below the outfeed and now there is no way you can get a flat planed board. If the knives are slightly above the outfeed, you will get a bit of snipe, which may or many not make any difference to what you are using the wood for, or it can be cut off. About the only time I really worry about snipe is when I am making rail and stile door frames, then I just trim it off. Often the ends of boards are split and need to be trimmed off, so always best to do this after planing regardless of where the knives are.
lol ... in my opinion
Hi Collin, just started my woodworking adventure, and used my bench top jointer. For the first time yesterday after setting it all up, with disastrous results, followed the manual to the letter too, it told me to set the blades level with the out feed table, after 5 or 6 passes only the front of the timber was being shaved, it also said to keep my weight on the out-feed table, so frustrating I’ve so much recycled Oregon to use and want to get started, Help!!!
Thanks for the video. Love your stuff.
Quick question though. If you're always running the wood through with the crown up, how do you get rid of the crown? I can see how that would make 1 side flat, but how do you then flatten the other side?
+Aaron Schrank Good question ... once the side that is being planed flat on the jointer is finished the board is normally run through a planer which then flattens the to and makes the board parallel from end to end
Got it, thanks!
I had to look through the comments to find this. Seems like a "Duh" kind of answer, you might want to add that into the video somewhere though. Great video though!!!!!!
Awesome videos! I am going to ask a dumb question. What do you mean exactly by the crown?
Hay buddy I just picked up a jointer so the first thing I did was to see if you had any videos on it and I am so glad you did looking at your jointer I think mine is the same Its a Delta 6in deluxe model jt360 I looked at it and I don't think it was ever used I paid 100 bucks did I get a good deal ? I ran 1 pcs of wood and got 1/2 inch snipe on 1 end so watching your video I am going try to get it out is their any other suggestion thanks as always my friend
+Charlie Wood I think $100 is a great deal, assuming your can get it working properly and there is nothing major wrong with it ... most jointers need some tweaking to work the way they should so don't be alarmed by that
+WoodWorkWeb Well buddy after watching your video and some other woodworkers videos I found the snipe was from the way I was pushing down on the wood I would like to thank you watching your video I learned so much I am new to woodworking just started 2 years ago I was a machinist for 30 plus years this is way different thanks again
Thanks Charlie ... great to have you with us
Great video. Do you know why there are so many jointer accident stories? I found a great deal on one, but I keep reading about stories of horrible accidents. When I watch jointer videos they look far, far safer than table saw videos. Table saws can twist the material and kick it back violently at your head, due to the blade lifting and shooting the material upwards. Table saws with no riving knife seem far more dangerous and likely to create a severe accident. What is the number #1 cause of jointer accidents?
If I had to guess, the cause is just what you describe. People look at a jointer, think it looks really safe (unlike the big scary table saw) and take it as a license to do stupid things with it.
Just a guess though
See my comment elsewhere in this thread. Even teachers can have bad days.
Every power tool can and should be used safely. If used in an unsafe manner, any power tool can injure, maim or kill in less than th blink of an eye. Safety is always the responsibility of the person using the tool - nobody else can do your safety stuff for you.
The same tthing about safety also applies to operating motor vehicles, watercraft, aircraft and a lot of other things. YOU are responsible for your own safety when you are operating them.
I have the exact same Delta Jointer you are using. I had two issues: 1) the boards were bowing expecially when the width was not the same and 2) despite anything I tried the blades were moving during operation. Usually one side lift up. I set the blades as per this video but can't stop the blades moving no matter how tight the retention bolts. Delta says not to overtighten those bolts. Is there any way to stop them from moving? Also is it even possible to join the edge of boards that are not the same width?
+David Clink Hi David, I'm not happy to hear your jointer knives are moving. That's not safe. I have mine snugged down pretty tight but have never had a problem with movement. Not sure what to tell you at this juncture.
Sorry, I have read your statement about jointing boards not same width - a few times and I am not following the question, maybe you could re-phrase it.
o
WoodWorkWeb r
Thanks for the video. But I think it would be helpful to actually describe how you are pushing the wood through the jointer. In other words what directions you are applying force and how much force you are applying. My understanding is that you should apply as little downwards force as necessary to grip the wood, as otherwise you will deform the wood and it will spring back on exiting the jointer. you should apply downwards force on the out feed table but not the infeed.
Exactly.... Took me a long time to understand what is no obvious, but I couldn't understand why I couldn't get good results... I was alternating between putting pressure on the in-feed and the out-feed.... Pulled a lot of hair and wasted a lot of wood before the obvious was obvious.... Out-feed length and stability is important too...
My jointer’s manual though stated to apply pressure on the infeed.
I bought a planer and now I am finding out I need a jointer. May I ask what kind of jointer are you using in the video. As a beginner which joiner would you recommend.
It looks like an older king industrial jointer.
Whays the knobs on the bottom.right side of the jointer
I'm a bit confused about the "moving the ruler an 1/8 inch" rule. Wouldn't the ideal be that you just barely touch the ruler? Or if you want to make a similar rule, "move the ruler a 1/64 inch"?
Hey ... if that works for you, absolutely. There are often different ways to achieve the same end, so if your method works for you, no point in changing it :)
So looking at the machine , could it also be used as a planer ? I enjoy watching
your videos , for sure I'm a novice .
The jointer shouldn't be used as a planer, the planer will make something flat and parallel to a reference edge and the jointer will simply make one face flat. More often than not you'll end up with two faces that are flat but not parallel by running them both over the jointer.
very special
yes, this seems to be the case, infeed is perfect 90*, outfeed,,, not so much! Ive been doing everything I can think of, even checked the straightness of the fence with my $100 lee valley straight edge, apparently its straight but I still cant seem to get both sides at 90*...... The head scratching begins.
Rob White Yup ... this can be pretty frustrating. the only thing that I know of that can fix this is shims and this may not be pretty but you would have to ease off one of the sides of the infeed or outfeed table that you want to shim. For shim material I would suggest some sheet brass. Hard to find, but very thin and fairly easy to work with. With out being there, I would say you need to shim out one whole side and the sheet brass might be a perfect thickness, but you could check it ahead of time by using a small piece of the brass on top one of the table so see if it is the right height.
Thanks for talk in milimiters
Would you explain WHY you always keep the crown side up? and why don't you run every side through the jointer. Thx from a VERY beginner woodworker :-)
Running wood through with the crown side up cuts off only the "high" spots - where the board touches the table. Repeat until the jointer makes a clean straight cut along the whole board. (It helps to make pencil lines along the edge or face being jointed. When all of the pencil lines are gone, you are done.
If you jointed an edge, you can make the opposite edge straight and parallell using a radial arm or table saw. Place the freshly jointed edge against the fence and adjust the saw to take off about the thickness of the blade, then push the board through. Repeat until that edge is straight.
If you jointed a face, after one side is flat you can run the board through a planer (or drum sander) - with the new flat side DOWN - and plane it until it gets to the thickness you want. At that point the two faces will be flat and parallell. Or you can use a marking gauge to scribe lines close to the other face that are parallell to the flat face, then use hand planes to plane the wood down to the lines. (The pencil lines are really helpful here.) Start with the highest points and work on them until the board is flat.
If a crowned or twisted board is only put through a planer (without flattening one face first) it will come out thinner but still with the twist or crown.
@@GraemePayne1967Marine Thank you so much for this detailed explanation! I was having trouble visualizing this.
I finally got my table co-plane,,,, perfecto! So I was a happy guy to say the least. I will confess: taking apart the jointer, removing the infeed table to have it machined to half of 1/1000, (it was off by 35/1000) and then reassembling the entire machine,, "all by myself" was a challenge to say the lest. My lack of patience only adds to my problems. Ive got my fence tuned right in at 90* to the table but for some reason after planning the face then the side of a 2" X 4" X 5', the corner is NOT exactly 90*. The head scratching starts! Could this be due to one of my knives being too high? Any advice? thanks a lot.
Rob White One thing to check Rob, is the infeed and the outfeed BOTH at 90 degrees. I have used planers where when you set the fence to 90 degrees using the infeed table it's perfect, then when you check it with the outfeed table it is out a tiny bid. Let me know if that is any help
Colin
SUBSCRIBED MY DUDE
I am sorry but I am still a bit confused as to what you mean by the infeed and outfeed tables being parallel?
what model planer is that?
how much downward pressure please?
Obrigado o Brasil agradece...grande kamarada,,,
Você é muito bem-vindo amigo
Valeu saudações... Abraços..
what model jointer is this delta?
My OUTFEED table (Delta 37-190) needs adjusting. I loosened the Lock Screw and tried turning the Hand Knob clock and counter-clockwise without effect. I supposed the Outfeed Table is supposed to be 'tight,' while it might also be adjustable as per the manual.
In my case, I fear stripping the handle before I can move the out-feed table at all. I am not sure how that Hand Knob is fastened to the shaft it is attached to and don't want to risk breaking and parts that might prove irreplaceable (this is an old jointer).
Before I try loosening the lock nuts that hold the Gib(s) which would certainly loosen things up - then require careful resetting (and a helper according to the manual) - I thought to ask you as it appears you have the same or a close relative of the 37-190.
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
You don't have to adjust the outfeed table at all. You can rig up a set of magnets which attach to a square block and use it to set the blades accurately by adjusting
i have made diy jointer , its makes a pefect 90degree board but have a bow in middle of board , any ideas whats wrong ?
Having the same problem on a benchtop jointer. I feel as though it may be how you push the wood through the jointer that is causing the bow.
I have a delta jointer planer and I was wondering if anyone know's the paint number. Thanks in advance.
nice video....but, how about push pads? u did not use it the second time
Push pads were needed on the first pass with the board laying flat as there was no easy way to grip the board firmly (and also at the same time keep your fingers well clear of the cutters. On the second pass there was a good gripping area at the top edge of the upright board, and with your hands centered there your fingers would not reach the cutters. I'm no expert, but this is what my logic tells me.
Great instructions. I just bought that same jointer on eBay, Delta #37-190 for $275. I picked it up on Saturday 1/30/16. It looks like it was never used. You video was and is so helpful. What year did you make the video?Thanks again
+James McIntyre Thanks James for commenting
how do you get rid of the crown ?
Everytime I use my jointer the trailing end of the wood comes out shorter than the leading edge. I have checked and my jointer seems to be aligne properly. What am I doing wrong.
Great video. I'm a newbie and I thought this device was something totally different until seeing this video. Am I correct, is this a planer?
This is a jointer. A planer is a similar idea of using saw blades to flatten a face, but the blades are above the wood and the assumption is that the face the wood is lying on is already flat (has already gone through a jointer). See video #8 in this series.
What about grain direction? Shouldn't you also make sure that your grain is running downhill?
Good point Matt, I am going to do more on this later, not really enough time in this vid ... but, yes, if you can, joint with the grain, if you cannot (which is often the case) run against the grain, then flip it around and run one last pass with the grain, downhill as you say. Thanks again for mentioning, others will pick this up too :)
How do you get the crown side flat?? Lets have a look at the wood after you finished?
If you have a planer, once you get one face flat with the jointer, run the piece through your planer to remove the crown.
@@Dragonfly37b Yes, the jointer makes the wood flat on the side you run over the blades (the bottom side). The planer has blades on the top of the board you run through it, so if the bottom of the board is flat (which it is after jointing) the planer will shave off the top of the board until it is flat, too. (more accurately, the planer makes the top parallel with the bottom of the board) It took me a while to understand how the feeds and blades worked on wood for both pieces of equipment. Now I just have to buy them. :)
after the crown side up, and the other sides are flat, what should be done with the sides that have the crown?
Hi Murray, as I skimmed over in the vid, once you have one face flat and one edge is at 90 degrees and also true, you can go to what ever machine you need, planer, table saw, bandsaw, router etc. really depends on what you are going to do with your wood.
WoodWorkWeb thank you. i guess i was over thinking the process.
appreciate your attention.
Murray Glick
I had the exact same question, and was also obviously over thinking the solution to fixing the crown.
Hi, thanks for the video! I am having some problems with my jointer. It is a small and fairly cheap model, but it is set up according to the manual. I have two issues.
The first is that when I run my workpiece from the infeed table and in to the cutter head, the workpiece stops at the outfeed table. It grabs the edge of the outfeed table. I have double checked that the knife blades are aligned correctly. I also tried sanding very gently on the edge to create a bevel, and it seems to help but I don't want to continue if it is a bad idea. Is it?
My other issue is that my pieces come out warped. I have tried applying pressure at the high spots, but the problem gets worse for every pass.
Any tips would be highly appreciated!
Thanks,
Fred
soundiscomforting If, as you say, your jointer knives are even with or even slightly above your outfeed table ... a couple of things come to mind. It might be that your outfeed table is just too far away from the jointer knives ??? not sure on this, I am guessing a bit. The other thing that might be happening, is how much higher is the outfeed than the infeed table. I have mine set to a little less than 1/16 of an inch. I am just taking off a sliver of material each time. If you have the outfeed table too high, this could be a problem.
Let me know how you make out ...
Colin
WoodWorkWeb Thank you very much for helping me. I will take a closer look tomorrow (it's 11pm in Norway right now :) I am only taking off 1mm at each pass. I will recheck! Thanks
@@fredrik.larsen well? How did you make out?
@@Mikdugal1 There were many issues with that jointer. But for the issue with the workpiece stopping I raised the knives ever so slightly (the thickness of masking tape) and that solved it. But the warping issue could not be fixed. It was caused by the tables not being properly aligned. The infeed and outfeed table was cast aluminium, but it wasn't flat nor coplanar. I even flattened them with a scraper, but the flimsy design of the machine didn't allow for the tables to be properly aligned. E.g. you can't shim that design. In the end I ended up getting a machine with a dovetail design. Now it just works. Sorry if that wasn't the news you wanted to hear :)
Forgive me for my ignorant question here but I don't know any better. If your crown is always up how do you flatten that side?
+brad campbell I think thru a planer...I know it's just slightly late for the answer :P
you run your flattened edge against your table saw fence to then true the other side
Hi Colin, I like your series a lot and I learn a lot from them. Are you by any chance of Dutch origin?
+Cees Tax Yes, apparently I am :)
what are some examples of why i would want to use a jointer or planer? usually i just buy my lumber from the hardware store, cut to size and throw it together, so what are these fancy machines gain us?
Andrew A If you are buying rough lumber, these machines would be needed to plane and edge the boards but in your case you are purchasing finished lumber, which sounds like it is working fine for what you are doing.