Tips coming from an experienced detailer... You can pressure wash your engine bay if everything in there is genuine fitting. If there are lots of after market modifications then you will have to gauge how good is the insulation on after market stuff. Also I will not keep the engine running, it can potentionaly damage electronic stuff such as coils and Ecu if moisture manages to get in. If you are washing at home leave the hood open and avoid starting for next hour allowing it to dry. You can also try blow drying afterwards. Just remember to keep the nozel 2-3 feet away while using a pressure washer. A standard 110 bar pressure washer is safe to use on most automotive surfaces from 1 feet distance. Rinse your engine/underbody well before applying degreaser, do not use tyre shinner on a dirty tyre it would make it look ugly later on. Purchase water based tyre shinners, oil based ones are greasy and will attract lots of dust. Never use brush on your car/truck.. if you know what you are doing you should not need to do so! Use 2 soapy washmitts instead. I would recommend a strong citrus based shampoo for wash, moderately strong degreaser to get rid of mud, iron x for decontamination and on such a large vehicle I would suggest a spray-on wax and wipe, or spray on paint sealant.
Grit guards for buckets is another must. I personally would forgo the 2 bucket method which is standard for most detailing jobs and go for a 4 bucket or 5 bucket method. 1 for top half of car 1 for bottom half of car 1 for wheels 1 for other surfaces 1 for rinsing Over the top for regular cars, but with 4x4s which are being used off road, would need another set of rules to go by
Step 1: If you went in mud dont bother because even if you clean it untill it looks spotless it will still fall on your face when you are working on it for the next 10 years
Been off-roading for several years and this is the first time I've even heard about cleaning out the chassis. GREAT TIP. Will start adding that to my routine. Great video
Standing outside this morning having a smoke and inspecting my upper control arms, moved my way down to the bashplate under bullbar and found a huge chuck of dried mud that weighed as much as a bowling ball, jabbed it a few times with a stick to brake it out piece by piece, always find no matter how thorough a clean there is always a stowaway hanging in there somewhere 😂
Hey Ronny, I will give you a great tip since you're traveling always with your 4x4. Try spraying your tire (tyre) with "303 Aerospace protectant" or any external or internal rubber also your wind shield wiper, rubber hose, fan belt etc. It will extend the life of your tire to almost double. It's proven and had been tested by many including in the States and myself. Good luck mate!
hahaha epic response, they have signs up at all the car washes around here "No Mud Trucks Aloud" Im going to remember this next time i catch flack over it.
I can't stress this enough with tip 7, do NOT spray degreaser in the engine bay if the motor is remotely warm. I used the exact same supercheap degreaser in this video to remove some oil from a leaky tappet cover gasket when the spray ignited setting fire to the engine bay. Luckily I was able to put out the fire with a bucket of water near by but not after melting plastic wires for the CAS which I had to repair. I had used degreaser near hot exhaust manifolds previously without any issues, but after my incident I have been way more cautious.
Definitely make sure the degreaser you use is non flammable, my go to is Purple Power, but I'm in the US so I'm not sure if anyone else has access to it
Hi Ronny Over many years I have found if you spray my radiator and exhaust pipes with any of the cooking sprays before you go on a trip it helps in stopping the grass getting stuck under the 4x4 and in the radiator, I have used it for some 30 years and it works. the 2nd trick I use is any of the fabric stain removers they are great for getting rid of grease and oil and you can use them on your hands in the bush they are great to get your hands clean and don't knock your hands about.
good tips Ronny - especially the flushing out of the frame rails so salt doesn't eat out the frame from the inside. One comment about the engine bay - I find engine degreaser to be too harsh and may strip lettering/printing, and maybe even the protectant off of the aluminum parts. I find regular sudsy car wash soap or dish soap to work well (assuming your engine bay isn't covered in grease/oil). Start with a cool engine and generously splash soapy water in the engine bay. Use a sponge and soft brush to break the dust and mud loose and rinse with cool water. Repeat if needed. Then start the engine and let it run for 30 minutes or more to drive the water out of all the nooks and crannies (maybe go for a drive). Once the engine bay is dry (or mostly dry) I generously spray armorall over everything in the engine bay which helps make the next wash go faster and easier (helps prevent dirt and dust from sticking).
Excellent video, great tip regarding chassis washing, and the care needed not to blast the protection off, it amazing how many people do not believe a pressure washer can remove paint or under seal. Hopefully this will educate them!
I would recommend washing engine bay with a cold engine, period. Massive heat from engine and Hosing with cold water on several occasions in the past on customers cars, Hairline cracks on engine heads belts slipping off causing unessesary injury, electrics not liking water. I (Personally) wash engine bay cold and dry it with my HIGH pressure air hose from my compressor. everything Else 10/10 Cheers Ronny.
Just watch out not to blast water into seals with your compressor, I'd start drying it from a distance first. I've seen people blow water into electronic connections and seals with high pressure.
Yep, I run a detailing business and have never cleaned an engine/bay with it hot and running as my mechanic said the sudden change in temp and crack and damage sensors. I usually spray Wd40 on the exposed electrics first. I've washed engines with a pressure washer for years without issues, just don't have a very aggressive tip on the wand and don't hold the tip too close, basically common sense. I find a pressure washer is more efficient than a garden hose as it cleans better, without flooding the whole engine bay with water. If it's just dirt/mud you can use CT18 'truck wash' in a garden sprayer, then pressure wash and blow out water after. '
Done it for years & never had an issue. Like you said, not to close & keep it moving. Take the car for a drive after to dry it out. Seals on modern cars are pretty good these days. Just use common sense.
@@hartzland7658 I guess the point is one day the seals aren't going to be so good so yeah, you may not get away with high pressure cleaning in the engine bay without issues forever.
Thanks for the reviews and suggestions! How about one also discussing basic tools you should always have with you, and tool kits to take with you when out bush for several days/weeks, spares ti take. Cheers!
Great video 👌 Some other tricks to prevent corrosion: After washing car let it dry thoroughly...then, using a paint gun w/compressor spray a light coat of used engine oil underneath. With dry weather it'll form a protective layer that does wonders. Another trick is to remove plugs in sills and other places, blow air to remove debris and once every 2 years spray used engine oil inside...also inside chassis, roof pillars, inside doors (after removing door panels)...usually rust starts inside out from condensation. It's a common technique used in tropical humid areas of Ecuador and that's how I have kept my 30yr old Daihatsu Rocky rustproof.
Tip # 11 - Salt Removal …. When removing ocean water or ocean sand (w/ salt in it),… or salt on the road (when snowing). When spraying underneath at the DIY car wash,.. LEAVE the soap on the underneath portions. Your never going to get it all fully out of the places like the frame rails & crevices, and leaving the soap on helps prevent rust from whatever you miss flushing. Tip # 12 - Rubber, fiberglass etc,.. never use those wheel dressings etc,.. always use 303 spray. Those other spray take the moisture out as it dries. Only 303 and 100% pure silicone really work. 303 is expensive enough ( but worth it ), while 100% silicone is 🥜 nutty expensive. Cheers.
Hey Ronny Just a thought, I used to use the Inox on my 4wd but after using it on my jet ski and talking to others found it weakens rubber and can cause rubber to crack have stopped using Inox. Now using Marine grade Lannox and have found it to be much better for 4wd and jet ski. Just a thought. Still love the videos mate.. Thanks
The radiator will need flushing between air con condenser and front grille. I end up with a fair amount in there if going proper mudding. Also it's a good idea to pull the wheels and brakes off to get all the gunk out of the pads and sliders.
I buy the 4ltr Inox bottles and decant it into a spray bottle. I find its cheaper and easier to work with (although I tend to use more as it goes on a lot thicker and quicker). I'm a huge fan of your work Ronny, keep it up.
I'm a gear guy who just bought my first 4x4 (2000 Ford F150 with a 5.4 V8 freshly rebuilt). I first my undercarriage with wd40 and just scrub my engine bay with brushes and rags. Thanks a bunch for the input. I work on gravel roads a lot and surface rust is supposedly common up here.
Thanks for the great video. I'v never thought about the hose in the frame rail to wash out the salt. The one thing I would add, is to make sure the car wash allows muddy vehicles. I have been kicked out of a car wash before due to my truck being to dirty / muddy. It's a long story and I didn't see the small sign, but needles to say the owner was NOT happy.
Great tips here, especially in the engine bay. Just a bit worried about the cost going through the cans of innox. Having mud is a like a badge of honour!
Very well done brother, in Pakistan we use Diesel too right after the wash at the bottom, and also use air to dry up the engine asap once washed. Awesome to see your detailed information and that's how i keep my Jeep too. More Power bro!
If you have been playing in Salt water, find a freshwater river that's floats good, and park the car I it for a couple of hours. That does wonders for keeping rust away...
Regarding cleaning up after salt water there is a product called 'saltaway' which I use on the jetski, also a detergent based cleaner ( used on mine and farm machinery ) that you spray on and hose off.The result in using these products every time the ski is used ( I know its not an off roader ) is the engine looks like brand new, and the use of Inox is definitely a no no, use Lanox instead. I dont hose down a jet ski engine until I can place my hand on the head. So not sure about running the engine while washing. It just shows that not all advice from Ronny is right, but I like his work .
excellent video Ronny, the short, simple intro is a much better improvement compared to other videos ie. no need to welcome subscribers or mention first time viewers etc. mentioning 4 wheeling western Australia website is good enough. to sum up good video keep things short and simple , excellent video!
I've always been afraid of washing my engine myself... I live in California and my SUV doesn't get too muddy but my 4Runner sure does need it... Hopefully I can find a good degreaser... thanks for the video..
Awesome video. I'm just getting into 4x4 and I get great tips off your channel thanks mate. I did ask you once in a post to make a video about this stuff and you replied and said it was in the pipeline so thanks for getting it done.
everything I work on someone else's rig.... the frame is full of mud. frames I've welded on jeeps are always rotten where mud collects and never gets washed away. a trick I use is keep the axles . suspension. Frame and any other under body parts painted with cheap black spray paint. the mud seems to wash off much easier then it does off a rusty surface. fresh dielectric grease on electrical connections really helps keep the water out
good video Ronny, my dads been using the high pressure hose on the engine bay of his TD42 patrol for 15 years and its never had any problems apart from the power steering belt slipping for the first few corners.
Problem we have in 🇨🇦 Canada is during the winter, cold as hell to go to the carwash often and the calcium sticks to your car like magnetite, really hard to get rid off
New subscriber here! Thank you for your time in providing these awesome tips for caring 4x4 vehicles. This will be very useful to me. Keep up the great job.
I was considering spraying the tread on my spare a couple of days ago and then today coincidently after what I'd just written to you I discovered I had a slow puncture and had to put the spare on. Glad I didn't spray it!
Hey Ronny, What do you think about washing your car in diesel... I did it on my old 4x4, its oil based see so like the innox it works a treat for rust prevention, wash car with soapy water first and rinse, then spray car from roof down with a spray bottle of diesel and after waiting a few min then wash entire car with HOT soapy water, your car never looked so clean :) smells for a day if you sprayed underneath (because I wouldn`t wash that off) but .....NO RUST! I sold the car now and still see it driving around town with perfect paint and no rust and I did multiple beach trips and LOTS of off road with it. Anyone else heard of this method ?
Whilst I agree with 99.99 % of what you say, I usually loosen the wheel nut, jack the vehicle up and remove all four wheels. Using my high pressure Karcher I then spray everything with a HEAVY DUTY cleaner which dissolve red mud or any other types of mud. I remove the pads and brake drums and spray with the heavy duty cleaner which consists of Sodium Hydroxide and is mainly used for commercial use. Once the underneath has been sprayed all over, and under the engine bay and front suspension plus wheel arches, I use the Karcher at 2000Lbs pressure and just watch the mud and gunk fall off. The gearbox comes up looking as if it has just been fitted by the factory. The front calipers are cleaned and the mud falls off . The brake drums and shoes get soaked in the heavy duty cleaner and then pressure washed. This whole and entire process takes about an hour to do, and once everything is 100 % clean and no signs of mud anywhere, the wheels are replaced and the vehicle lowered back to the ground. It is on axle stands for the record The mining companies use this to de-grease their heavy duty underground vehicles. Have been using this product for over 20 years and no signs of corrosion under the vehicle at all. Wheel arches all look as if they have never ever seen any off road mud. Its getting expensive to buy, hence the reason I try not to get mud under/on the vehicle. Just dont spray it on alloy rims , stainless steel or on any paintwork unless it white. Spraying on the aforementioned can do permanent damage to metallic paint and stainless steel.
well done, best way to remove salt is to put a sprinkler under car for a long time , this sucks all the salt out buy constant water spray. also have a cold motor to wash while running it
This was a awesome video! Iv lived in Karratha WA for 25 years a trust me all the little advice you get can go alone way. So cheers mate p.s love all your videos mate keep it up. 🤙🏽
If your doing the salt water thing with your rig, don't forget to soap and wash out your brake rotors and pads, even more important if you have drums to rinse them out. They can rust up pretty quickly and the metal that holds the pads/shoes is not designed to deal with salt corrosion.
Thanks again Ronnie. I've only been 4WDing for a year and a half (I'm a late bloomer!) Since starting Rhino Wash has become my friend. Thanks for your tips and I'll have to find some Inox 3. Are you going to be at the 4WD Show in November?
Ronny, I spray the under carriage with wd40 and I got some tyre shine from Repco as a promotional product with some oil and fiters I purchased, it works tops keeps the under carriage black and looking new, I still use wd40 or Inox underneth
Rolly B I always used wd 40 on my 4x4s frames and metal components here in the Northeast (in the states) prior to the winter season and mybe a touch up some time in the middle of the season. We get hammered with salt and road chemicals and I've never had issues with rot or heavy rust using we 40. I now use a product called fluid film which is excellent and does not dry and has creeping qualities so it helps to get into places you think you can't reach on your frame. Diligence and regular maintenance is key. Oh yeah it's also not toxic and supposedly safe on most rubber. I personally try not to spray anything on any rubber components. Cheers!!
Good videos. Have always used diy carwashes (I just call them carwash, cause I don't know any other), and you gave really good tips. The only thing I would add, be careful with your skin, cuz I once shredded a big line of skin from my arm by rushing and not being careful. I enjoyed the vid.
That’s why “attendees” are paid. They make a motza out of the automatic car washes and these don’t even do a good job. Really need to do to the truck what the farmers do to sheep etc...run them through the sheep drench. So a shallow pool of water would be ideal to start with and loosen it off.
So Ive found that washing the mud off at the car wash just leaves a ton of mud in the drain, sometimes to the point that it clogs the drain and your local car wash is left with a flooded bay. A water hose actually does a way better job of getting the initial bulk of mud off AND youre not having to spend $10 extra dollars at the local wash buying the extra time it takes having to move all around the vehicle to get within 10" of every muddy spot. The water volume a hose can spray 10ft is WAY more than a pressure washer. A pressure washer is only effective within about a foot when it comes to dislodging mud. I say park in the garden to do the initial rinse so all that dirt ends up somewhere useful. 😂
hi Ronny. just bought a new dmax with the intent of getting into some beach driving. your video is the best i've seen so far for post cleaning tips. but wondering if you rust proof your vehicle first and in your opinion which method is best?
Hey Mr. Ronny, I really enjoy your videos. Thanks for posting them. I live in the US, and I recently bought a 1989 Toyota pickup 4x4 dlx single cab 2.3l gas pickup truck. I am just getting into four-wheeling now and I was wondering, for mild off-road outings, what gear and equipment should I save up and get for my truck? It already has undercarriage skid plates and 31in all terrain tires on it. Thanks!
A good vid, but mostly common sense. After jet washing the underside, making sure all mud is removed, I’ve always hosed out the chassis rails with cold water and after, when dry, I squib regular oil into the chassis vent holes. It works, don’t overdo it or it will be dripping everywhere you don’t want it, but the oil creeps upwards and linearly inside the rails and members under capillary action. Oily steel does not rust, simple.
I personally am not a big fan of spraying degreaser over everything in the engine bay, if I do use it I try to avoid spraying on pulleys and anything with a bearing, the degreaser can get in and dry the bearing out, I generally just give it a good soak in soap, like ct18 Awesome video though
When I was younger and Off Roading a lot we sprayed Spam under our Jeeps. Spam is a greaseless spray for baking. It was very helpful in removing the mud after a run. It probably still is!
I’ve always used high pressure but with due diligence. Never left it running either. I more so use the soap and brush to agitate the dirt not the pressure washer. I only like to use it because it saves water and speeds up rinsing.
Another top tip if you've flooded your carpet, wash your carpets then use their vacuums to suck the soapy water out , they love it . Car lovers in qld come up n told me to stop using degreaser as it contaminated there recycled water , so another good tip is to apply the degreaser around the corner then drive in lol
YEAH NAH MATE Errr.... anything is going to contaminate their recycled water isn't it? Whatever filtering they're using it won't get oil out, and there's already also gonna be some detergents in there.
Good tips, some I use already but some I don't and should. I figured INOX3 was an Aussie thing, but looks like it's here in the states as well, I've just never seen it. Sounds a lot like some stuff I have called Fluid Film, only it doesn't make a foamy mess like fluid film does.
Not sure about cleaning the engine bay period or doing it with engine running hot. Would also recommend wrapping the alternator up in plastic. I managed to destroy an alternator on a road car some years back after an engine bay wash even though the components in an engine bay should be water resistant (not waterproof).
Thank you for this almost academic demonstration, I would like to ask you about a W40 spry that we have in our area, is it the same as the spry that you showed us. Thank a million
I just stick a garden sprinkler under my JK for a few hours after I've hit the carwash and gotten the large stuff out. The neighbours arnt too happy though when he road is full of mud hahaha. Awesome video and tips. I didnt know about INOX but I will most certainly give it a go! Keep up the good work
I can’t hear what the name of that stuff you are spraying on your truck for the mud sticking/lube but if it possible I would try buying it in bulk and use a pump up sprayer to dispense it got to a lot cheaper than spray cans or some DIY concoction what is that stuff called.? Thanks I really enjoy your channel I live in Nicaragua I have a 2016 Hilux 4x4 2.4 l Diesel 5 passenger .
CT18 to get off red stains and wash engine. Can squirt a 1:20 solution into tricky spots, suspension and brakes and door seals and just wash off with low pressure. CT20 has wax for exterior
what are the weather condition in Australia ? do you have rust quickly ? Here in Europe - Poland it's good to have undercarriage conservation because: snow,salt on roads, rain do the bad stuff to cars :)
+DonDomel Australia is so big you can experience all kinds of weather from the hot tropical north to cool temperate Tasmania. Snow is usually only for a short season on high ground.
Very good tips but I've always been told you should never wash with water/never put water in your engine bay ? It is normal to clean the engine with water ? I have never heard of anyone doing it here in France.
Was cleaning my ute at the car wash today and i put the hose directly in the chassis holes.. mate you dont wanna see the dirr that came out of it! Took half an hour each side and still dirt inside.
Tips coming from an experienced detailer...
You can pressure wash your engine bay if everything in there is genuine fitting. If there are lots of after market modifications then you will have to gauge how good is the insulation on after market stuff.
Also I will not keep the engine running, it can potentionaly damage electronic stuff such as coils and Ecu if moisture manages to get in. If you are washing at home leave the hood open and avoid starting for next hour allowing it to dry. You can also try blow drying afterwards.
Just remember to keep the nozel 2-3 feet away while using a pressure washer. A standard 110 bar pressure washer is safe to use on most automotive surfaces from 1 feet distance.
Rinse your engine/underbody well before applying degreaser, do not use tyre shinner on a dirty tyre it would make it look ugly later on. Purchase water based tyre shinners, oil based ones are greasy and will attract lots of dust.
Never use brush on your car/truck.. if you know what you are doing you should not need to do so! Use 2 soapy washmitts instead.
I would recommend a strong citrus based shampoo for wash, moderately strong degreaser to get rid of mud, iron x for decontamination and on such a large vehicle I would suggest a spray-on wax and wipe, or spray on paint sealant.
Grit guards for buckets is another must.
I personally would forgo the 2 bucket method which is standard for most detailing jobs and go for a 4 bucket or 5 bucket method.
1 for top half of car
1 for bottom half of car
1 for wheels
1 for other surfaces
1 for rinsing
Over the top for regular cars, but with 4x4s which are being used off road, would need another set of rules to go by
Step 1: If you went in mud dont bother because even if you clean it untill it looks spotless it will still fall on your face when you are working on it for the next 10 years
Tru Dat!
Haha this is soo true
like desert sand... can never get that out!
So true mate so true
E.DUNN oh my god clay is the worst with that!
Been off-roading for several years and this is the first time I've even heard about cleaning out the chassis. GREAT TIP. Will start adding that to my routine. Great video
Proud American mate going into salty waters lots cover the underside with old engine oil
+bruce 130013 Fish oil would be a better idea mate
@@laytonkirschke4991 I've seen in Canada they put used motor oil filtered down into an air sprayer and spray the underside and chassis.
Standing outside this morning having a smoke and inspecting my upper control arms, moved my way down to the bashplate under bullbar and found a huge chuck of dried mud that weighed as much as a bowling ball, jabbed it a few times with a stick to brake it out piece by piece, always find no matter how thorough a clean there is always a stowaway hanging in there somewhere 😂
place your garden sprinkler under your rig after a trip to clean your undercarriage works mint
+Brayden Mackay never thought of that before
+Brayden Mackay, I totally agree, makes cleaning the under carriage a breeze!
+Brayden Mackay We do that too
+Brayden Mackay +1 awesome tip :)
Its worked for me many times
Great idea mate, I'll give it a go
Hey Ronny, I will give you a great tip since you're traveling always with your 4x4. Try spraying your tire (tyre) with "303 Aerospace protectant" or any external or internal rubber also your wind shield wiper, rubber hose, fan belt etc. It will extend the life of your tire to almost double. It's proven and had been tested by many including in the States and myself. Good luck mate!
Cheers mate I’ll look into it 👍
No worries! Just remember spray entire tyre don't wipe let it soak and dry. I've done mine at least every six months. Cheers Mate...
Expensive but worth. Some rv places in Canada recommend it
A car wash north of the river in Perth told me not to wash my dirty 4WD there again. I asked him if I should wash a clean car there.
+ER Offroad haha what a jerk
hahahha
hahaha epic response, they have signs up at all the car washes around here "No Mud Trucks Aloud" Im going to remember this next time i catch flack over it.
ER Offroad lol damn
Ian McGee "allowed"
I can't stress this enough with tip 7, do NOT spray degreaser in the engine bay if the motor is remotely warm. I used the exact same supercheap degreaser in this video to remove some oil from a leaky tappet cover gasket when the spray ignited setting fire to the engine bay. Luckily I was able to put out the fire with a bucket of water near by but not after melting plastic wires for the CAS which I had to repair. I had used degreaser near hot exhaust manifolds previously without any issues, but after my incident I have been way more cautious.
There a some decreases that are supposed to be used on hot engines. I only use those.
I have seen this happen when being sprayed on a turbo that had not cooled down. Same brand too. Definitely wait for it to cool down
Definitely make sure the degreaser you use is non flammable, my go to is Purple Power, but I'm in the US so I'm not sure if anyone else has access to it
Hi Ronny
Over many years I have found if you spray my radiator and exhaust pipes with any of the cooking sprays before you go on a trip it helps in stopping the grass getting stuck under the 4x4 and in the radiator, I have used it for some 30 years and it works. the 2nd trick I use is any of the fabric stain removers they are great for getting rid of grease and oil and you can use them on your hands in the bush they are great to get your hands clean and don't knock your hands about.
good tips Ronny - especially the flushing out of the frame rails so salt doesn't eat out the frame from the inside.
One comment about the engine bay - I find engine degreaser to be too harsh and may strip lettering/printing, and maybe even the protectant off of the aluminum parts. I find regular sudsy car wash soap or dish soap to work well (assuming your engine bay isn't covered in grease/oil). Start with a cool engine and generously splash soapy water in the engine bay. Use a sponge and soft brush to break the dust and mud loose and rinse with cool water. Repeat if needed. Then start the engine and let it run for 30 minutes or more to drive the water out of all the nooks and crannies (maybe go for a drive). Once the engine bay is dry (or mostly dry) I generously spray armorall over everything in the engine bay which helps make the next wash go faster and easier (helps prevent dirt and dust from sticking).
Excellent video, great tip regarding chassis washing, and the care needed not to blast the protection off, it amazing how many people do not believe a pressure washer can remove paint or under seal. Hopefully this will educate them!
I would recommend washing engine bay with a cold engine, period. Massive heat from engine and Hosing with cold water on several occasions in the past on customers cars, Hairline cracks on engine heads belts slipping off causing unessesary injury, electrics not liking water. I (Personally) wash engine bay cold and dry it with my HIGH pressure air hose from my compressor. everything Else 10/10 Cheers Ronny.
Yeah I agree there. I’d normally have the engine off and at the very worst a warm engine. Definitely not a hot engine. Cold is better.
Just watch out not to blast water into seals with your compressor, I'd start drying it from a distance first. I've seen people blow water into electronic connections and seals with high pressure.
Yep, I run a detailing business and have never cleaned an engine/bay with it hot and running as my mechanic said the sudden change in temp and crack and damage sensors. I usually spray Wd40 on the exposed electrics first. I've washed engines with a pressure washer for years without issues, just don't have a very aggressive tip on the wand and don't hold the tip too close, basically common sense. I find a pressure washer is more efficient than a garden hose as it cleans better, without flooding the whole engine bay with water. If it's just dirt/mud you can use CT18 'truck wash' in a garden sprayer, then pressure wash and blow out water after. '
great video. With dealing with this clay we have in Alberta, a sprinkler left under the rig for a few hours works wonders on stuck on mud.
I'm a part time car detailer and work in a workshop as well and we always high pressure wash engines down just stand back and don't focus on one spot
Done it for years & never had an issue. Like you said, not to close & keep it moving. Take the car for a drive after to dry it out. Seals on modern cars are pretty good these days. Just use common sense.
@@hartzland7658 I guess the point is one day the seals aren't going to be so good so yeah, you may not get away with high pressure cleaning in the engine bay without issues forever.
Thanks for the reviews and suggestions!
How about one also discussing basic tools you should always have with you, and tool kits to take with you when out bush for several days/weeks, spares ti take. Cheers!
Great video 👌 Some other tricks to prevent corrosion: After washing car let it dry thoroughly...then, using a paint gun w/compressor spray a light coat of used engine oil underneath. With dry weather it'll form a protective layer that does wonders. Another trick is to remove plugs in sills and other places, blow air to remove debris and once every 2 years spray used engine oil inside...also inside chassis, roof pillars, inside doors (after removing door panels)...usually rust starts inside out from condensation. It's a common technique used in tropical humid areas of Ecuador and that's how I have kept my 30yr old Daihatsu Rocky rustproof.
Tip # 11 - Salt Removal …. When removing ocean water or ocean sand (w/ salt in it),… or salt on the road (when snowing). When spraying underneath at the DIY car wash,.. LEAVE the soap on the underneath portions. Your never going to get it all fully out of the places like the frame rails & crevices, and leaving the soap on helps prevent rust from whatever you miss flushing.
Tip # 12 - Rubber, fiberglass etc,.. never use those wheel dressings etc,.. always use 303 spray. Those other spray take the moisture out as it dries. Only 303 and 100% pure silicone really work. 303 is expensive enough ( but worth it ), while 100% silicone is 🥜 nutty expensive. Cheers.
Hey Ronny Just a thought, I used to use the Inox on my 4wd but after using it on my jet ski and talking to others found it weakens rubber and can cause rubber to crack have stopped using Inox. Now using Marine grade Lannox and have found it to be much better for 4wd and jet ski. Just a thought. Still love the videos mate.. Thanks
awesome idea for a video mate. Keep it up. I never tire of watching your movies.
The radiator will need flushing between air con condenser and front grille. I end up with a fair amount in there if going proper mudding. Also it's a good idea to pull the wheels and brakes off to get all the gunk out of the pads and sliders.
Proper mudding 😂😂😂
I buy the 4ltr Inox bottles and decant it into a spray bottle. I find its cheaper and easier to work with (although I tend to use more as it goes on a lot thicker and quicker). I'm a huge fan of your work Ronny, keep it up.
+wilcrew101 thanks mate, I started doing the same and seem to use a lot more too...
I'm a gear guy who just bought my first 4x4 (2000 Ford F150 with a 5.4 V8 freshly rebuilt). I first my undercarriage with wd40 and just scrub my engine bay with brushes and rags. Thanks a bunch for the input. I work on gravel roads a lot and surface rust is supposedly common up here.
8:04 pure bliss to my ears😊
Thanks for the great video. I'v never thought about the hose in the frame rail to wash out the salt. The one thing I would add, is to make sure the car wash allows muddy vehicles. I have been kicked out of a car wash before due to my truck being to dirty / muddy. It's a long story and I didn't see the small sign, but needles to say the owner was NOT happy.
Great info mate. Washing is often overlooked and rarely gotten right.
Great tips here, especially in the engine bay. Just a bit worried about the cost going through the cans of innox.
Having mud is a like a badge of honour!
Very well done brother, in Pakistan we use Diesel too right after the wash at the bottom, and also use air to dry up the engine asap once washed. Awesome to see your detailed information and that's how i keep my Jeep too. More Power bro!
Here in Alabama we have really thick clay, I sometimes have to go underneath with a screwdriver and pry it off it's like concrete.
inbreds
@@jesussanchez-rx7zk Heysus, hey. Stop that sus. Hey.
@@jesussanchez-rx7zk disrespectful
If you have been playing in Salt water, find a freshwater river that's floats good, and park the car I it for a couple of hours. That does wonders for keeping rust away...
Way to pollute the river...
Inox will affect some rubbers keep that in mind... Using CRC808 which is a silicone spray will help with mud and dust not sticking.
Regarding cleaning up after salt water there is a product called 'saltaway' which I use on the jetski, also a detergent based cleaner ( used on mine and farm machinery ) that you spray on and hose off.The result in using these products every time the ski is used ( I know its not an off roader ) is the engine looks like brand new, and the use of Inox is definitely a no no, use Lanox instead.
I dont hose down a jet ski engine until I can place my hand on the head. So not sure about running the engine while washing.
It just shows that not all advice from Ronny is right, but I like his work .
excellent video Ronny, the short, simple intro is a much better improvement compared to other videos ie. no need to welcome subscribers or mention first time viewers etc. mentioning 4 wheeling western Australia website is good enough. to sum up good video keep things short and simple , excellent video!
I've always been afraid of washing my engine myself... I live in California and my SUV doesn't get too muddy but my 4Runner sure does need it... Hopefully I can find a good degreaser... thanks for the video..
Keeping your car well polished will assist greatly in the dirt not getting stuck on
couldn't agree more. One of the best tips
Great video Ronny! I like going back to refresh on some of the older tips videos!
Awesome video. I'm just getting into 4x4 and I get great tips off your channel thanks mate. I did ask you once in a post to make a video about this stuff and you replied and said it was in the pipeline so thanks for getting it done.
Hows the 4x4 experience been goinf
I've always wondered how on earth is that trUck so clean! got a lot ot of this video, thanks!
I’ve been using “Simple Green” to clean my taco engine, I use even less pressure than in video, basically simulate rain...5 years still looks new
Damian Grouse +1 for Simple Green available at any Bunnings. Then 303 protectant on any rubber or plastic.
everything I work on someone else's rig.... the frame is full of mud. frames I've welded on jeeps are always rotten where mud collects and never gets washed away. a trick I use is keep the axles . suspension. Frame and any other under body parts painted with cheap black spray paint. the mud seems to wash off much easier then it does off a rusty surface. fresh dielectric grease on electrical connections really helps keep the water out
good video Ronny, my dads been using the high pressure hose on the engine bay of his TD42 patrol for 15 years and its never had any problems apart from the power steering belt slipping for the first few corners.
Problem we have in 🇨🇦 Canada is during the winter, cold as hell to go to the carwash often and the calcium sticks to your car like magnetite, really hard to get rid off
Great tips on washing a rig. We just got a Fxj80,s so we're looking for all the info we can.
New subscriber here! Thank you for your time in providing these awesome tips for caring 4x4 vehicles. This will be very useful to me. Keep up the great job.
I was considering spraying the tread on my spare a couple of days ago and then today coincidently after what I'd just written to you I discovered I had a slow puncture and had to put the spare on. Glad I didn't spray it!
Thank you bro!... I've seen many videos from you and you have prepped me and CONFIRMED my instincts about off-road IQ.... Keep them coming! 👍😘 LOL
Chassis rinse is a must do, great tip as I have seen the result of corroded chassis first hand
Hey Ronny, What do you think about washing your car in diesel... I did it on my old 4x4, its oil based see so like the innox it works a treat for rust prevention, wash car with soapy water first and rinse, then spray car from roof down with a spray bottle of diesel and after waiting a few min then wash entire car with HOT soapy water, your car never looked so clean :) smells for a day if you sprayed underneath (because I wouldn`t wash that off) but .....NO RUST! I sold the car now and still see it driving around town with perfect paint and no rust and I did multiple beach trips and LOTS of off road with it.
Anyone else heard of this method ?
Whilst I agree with 99.99 % of what you say, I usually loosen the wheel nut, jack the vehicle up and remove all four wheels. Using my high pressure Karcher I then spray everything with a HEAVY DUTY cleaner which dissolve red mud or any other types of mud. I remove the pads and brake drums and spray with the heavy duty cleaner which consists of Sodium Hydroxide and is mainly used for commercial use.
Once the underneath has been sprayed all over, and under the engine bay and front suspension plus wheel arches, I use the Karcher at 2000Lbs pressure and just watch the mud and gunk fall off. The gearbox comes up looking as if it has just been fitted by the factory. The front calipers are cleaned and the mud falls off . The brake drums and shoes get soaked in the heavy duty cleaner and then pressure washed. This whole and entire process takes about an hour to do, and once everything is 100 % clean and no signs of mud anywhere, the wheels are replaced and the vehicle lowered back to the ground. It is on axle stands for the record
The mining companies use this to de-grease their heavy duty underground vehicles. Have been using this product for over 20 years and no signs of corrosion under the vehicle at all. Wheel arches all look as if they have never ever seen any off road mud. Its getting expensive to buy, hence the reason I try not to get mud under/on the vehicle. Just dont spray it on alloy rims , stainless steel or on any paintwork unless it white. Spraying on the aforementioned can do permanent damage to metallic paint and stainless steel.
well done, best way to remove salt is to put a sprinkler under car for a long time , this sucks all the salt out buy constant water spray. also have a cold motor to wash while running it
This was a awesome video! Iv lived in Karratha WA for 25 years a trust me all the little advice you get can go alone way. So cheers mate p.s love all your videos mate keep it up. 🤙🏽
Really good tips. Big thank you from Texas.
Thanks for the great tips ! I'll be using them
If your doing the salt water thing with your rig, don't forget to soap and wash out your brake rotors and pads, even more important if you have drums to rinse them out. They can rust up pretty quickly and the metal that holds the pads/shoes is not designed to deal with salt corrosion.
Thanks again Ronnie. I've only been 4WDing for a year and a half (I'm a late bloomer!) Since starting Rhino Wash has become my friend. Thanks for your tips and I'll have to find some Inox 3. Are you going to be at the 4WD Show in November?
Ronny, I spray the under carriage with wd40 and I got some tyre shine from Repco as a promotional product with some oil and fiters I purchased, it works tops keeps the under carriage black and looking new, I still use wd40 or Inox underneth
Rolly B I always used wd 40 on my 4x4s frames and metal components here in the Northeast (in the states) prior to the winter season and mybe a touch up some time in the middle of the season. We get hammered with salt and road chemicals and I've never had issues with rot or heavy rust using we 40. I now use a product called fluid film which is excellent and does not dry and has creeping qualities so it helps to get into places you think you can't reach on your frame. Diligence and regular maintenance is key. Oh yeah it's also not toxic and supposedly safe on most rubber. I personally try not to spray anything on any rubber components. Cheers!!
thanks for that, wd40 is not good for rubber components
Good videos. Have always used diy carwashes (I just call them carwash, cause I don't know any other), and you gave really good tips. The only thing I would add, be careful with your skin, cuz I once shredded a big line of skin from my arm by rushing and not being careful. I enjoyed the vid.
So your the guy that cloggs up the drains at the carwash.
rudedogii thats what a car was is for you turd 😂 pointless taking a clean car in
robfielder86 It’s a joke
If it doesn't clog the drain, you're not doing it right.
That’s why “attendees” are paid. They make a motza out of the automatic car washes and these don’t even do a good job. Really need to do to the truck what the farmers do to sheep etc...run them through the sheep drench.
So a shallow pool of water would be ideal to start with and loosen it off.
robfielder86 😂😂😂🤦🏻♀️
I use simple green on my mountain bike and now my new 4x4.
Thanks for the tips.
JUKEBOXX1990 simple green eats aluminum please be careful
You do a very good job, at explaining things Ronny thanks ,from WA
Pump up garden sprayer, filled with baby oil before a weekend of mud.
Most of the mud on vertical surfaces will fall off.
Very good tip! Thanks I'll keep it in mind next time I wash my truck 👍
Nice job! Love the truck! Keep on keeping off road!
So Ive found that washing the mud off at the car wash just leaves a ton of mud in the drain, sometimes to the point that it clogs the drain and your local car wash is left with a flooded bay. A water hose actually does a way better job of getting the initial bulk of mud off AND youre not having to spend $10 extra dollars at the local wash buying the extra time it takes having to move all around the vehicle to get within 10" of every muddy spot. The water volume a hose can spray 10ft is WAY more than a pressure washer. A pressure washer is only effective within about a foot when it comes to dislodging mud. I say park in the garden to do the initial rinse so all that dirt ends up somewhere useful. 😂
hi Ronny. just bought a new dmax with the intent of getting into some beach driving. your video is the best i've seen so far for post cleaning tips. but wondering if you rust proof your vehicle first and in your opinion which method is best?
Thank you for advices me about engine bay 👍☺️
Hey Mr. Ronny, I really enjoy your videos. Thanks for posting them. I live in the US, and I recently bought a 1989 Toyota pickup 4x4 dlx single cab 2.3l gas pickup truck. I am just getting into four-wheeling now and I was wondering, for mild off-road outings, what gear and equipment should I save up and get for my truck? It already has undercarriage skid plates and 31in all terrain tires on it. Thanks!
A good vid, but mostly common sense.
After jet washing the underside, making sure all mud is removed, I’ve always hosed out the chassis rails with cold water and after, when dry, I squib regular oil into the chassis vent holes. It works, don’t overdo it or it will be dripping everywhere you don’t want it, but the oil creeps upwards and linearly inside the rails and members under capillary action.
Oily steel does not rust, simple.
Hi Ronnie.... Thanks heaps for your tips and expertise... Your the man.... R.
I personally am not a big fan of spraying degreaser over everything in the engine bay, if I do use it I try to avoid spraying on pulleys and anything with a bearing, the degreaser can get in and dry the bearing out, I generally just give it a good soak in soap, like ct18
Awesome video though
When I was younger and Off Roading a lot we sprayed Spam under our Jeeps. Spam is a greaseless spray for baking. It was very helpful in removing the mud after a run. It probably still is!
+Otto Vandieren great tip, will spray spam all over my quad next time i go riding after rain
+-_-ineedmoremoney -_- be careful around the exhaust system.
+Otto Vandieren to avoid spraying the exhaust or just avoid burning myself?
Do you mean Pam? www.pamcookingspray.com/products/original
Isn't Spam some sort of canned meat product?
This is great. Thanks mate. Good tips for this newbie
I’ve always used high pressure but with due diligence. Never left it running either. I more so use the soap and brush to agitate the dirt not the pressure washer. I only like to use it because it saves water and speeds up rinsing.
Great tips. Coukd you give a a guide on underbody rust protection for older vehicles. Thanks
Top tip, Meguiars APC used as a snow foam works an absolute treat on mud prior to a pressure wash (You will need to re-wax the car after)
Ronny, instead of the plastic shine, try using a heat gun next time. It brings up plasticisers and gives it a factory new look.
Another top tip if you've flooded your carpet, wash your carpets then use their vacuums to suck the soapy water out , they love it . Car lovers in qld come up n told me to stop using degreaser as it contaminated there recycled water , so another good tip is to apply the degreaser around the corner then drive in lol
YEAH NAH MATE
Errr.... anything is going to contaminate their recycled water isn't it? Whatever filtering they're using it won't get oil out, and there's already also gonna be some detergents in there.
long time no see bro
Good advice Ron, going to clean my rig in the morning,
Do not forget to cover the alternator when you wash your engine! And the air intake
Dosent it get wet regardless when u hit water, just don't do high pressure onto it
Good tips, some I use already but some I don't and should. I figured INOX3 was an Aussie thing, but looks like it's here in the states as well, I've just never seen it. Sounds a lot like some stuff I have called Fluid Film, only it doesn't make a foamy mess like fluid film does.
Just a heads up, GETSOME lube also works just as good as INOX. (Though, its mainly found in the U.S.A)
Not sure about cleaning the engine bay period or doing it with engine running hot. Would also recommend wrapping the alternator up in plastic. I managed to destroy an alternator on a road car some years back after an engine bay wash even though the components in an engine bay should be water resistant (not waterproof).
Thank you for this almost academic demonstration, I would like to ask you about a W40 spry that we have in our area, is it the same as the spry that you showed us. Thank a million
Yes, WD-40 is basically the same thing as Inox
thats interesting in cleaning the engine bay. ive never been told this and the inox is a great idea
I prefer "Fluidfilm" for preserving and care. It works fine in rust prevention, smells nice and is all natural.
good stuff the Enox I use it on my rc boats as well and rc monster trucks.
what about fish oil ronnie? non toxic, doesn't pollute creeks, anti rust etc.. ?
Kick arse video Ronny! 🤘
I find letting the mud dry for a week helps you can pick lumps off by hand then wash it it cuts the wash time in half.
Good Video, as all i have seen from you.
Greets from Germany
Ronny your a bloody legend! 👍
After washing your engine bay, use a garden blower over the engine to help dry it faster and incase water went where it should not have gone?
I just stick a garden sprinkler under my JK for a few hours after I've hit the carwash and gotten the large stuff out.
The neighbours arnt too happy though when he road is full of mud hahaha.
Awesome video and tips. I didnt know about INOX but I will most certainly give it a go!
Keep up the good work
You have given some good advice here, mate. Cheers!
I can’t hear what the name of that stuff you are spraying on your truck for the mud sticking/lube but if it possible I would try buying it in bulk and use a pump up sprayer to dispense it got to a lot cheaper than spray cans or some DIY concoction what is that stuff called.? Thanks I really enjoy your channel I live in Nicaragua I have a 2016 Hilux 4x4 2.4 l Diesel 5 passenger .
The Teflon spray is definitely a helpful tool but you should probably mention to not spray it on your brakes. Nice video.
CT18 to get off red stains and wash engine. Can squirt a 1:20 solution into tricky spots, suspension and brakes and door seals and just wash off with low pressure. CT20 has wax for exterior
what are the weather condition in Australia ? do you have rust quickly ? Here in Europe - Poland it's good to have undercarriage conservation because: snow,salt on roads, rain do the bad stuff to cars :)
same here in pennsylvania
+DonDomel Australia is so big you can experience all kinds of weather from the hot tropical north to cool temperate Tasmania. Snow is usually only for a short season on high ground.
Nice vehicle, thank you for sharing your tips.
Very good tips but I've always been told you should never wash with water/never put water in your engine bay ? It is normal to clean the engine with water ? I have never heard of anyone doing it here in France.
Was cleaning my ute at the car wash today and i put the hose directly in the chassis holes.. mate you dont wanna see the dirr that came out of it! Took half an hour each side and still dirt inside.