Just cut out 4 strips of posterboard, and pin the together in a similar arrangement, then move the pins around until they move like you want them to. Scale as needed.
I would be interested in a detailed drawings if you sell them? Also, would a steel nose be to heavy for this setup I wonder? Clears the doors? Amazing.
We've been buried in fixing and finishing our new house, which is a major lemon with massive problems left over by our incompetent contractor. I've had several people ask for drawings, so I'll try and get it done ASAP. My husband was wanted something simple and just flex out the fenders, but it just seemed like such a pain and so easy to scratch the doors. He told me if I could come up with a better idea, he'd entertain it. A couple days later on a Friday evening, I was doing some miscellaneous laundry, but noticed how the doors on our washer and dryer work, and thought -- Bingo! -- then showed it to him. Saturday morning, I went to do some more laundry, and the door from my new washer was missing! I knew right then where it had to be, so I immediately put on my grubbies and went into the shop -- and there it was, right on the workbench with him figuring out how to build it in reverse when compared to the washer door. We made some rectangular arms with center lines on poster board, and started using straight pins to figure out pivots and lengths so we could see how it worked and make sure it had the necessary forward travel and tilt. I then built it out of balsa sticks onto a 2x4 using grabber screws very gently, until I had replicated. We played with it for hours to make sure everything would clear before committing the design to steel. If we were to do it again, i'd use 3/4" square or 3/4" x 1/2" steel instead of 1/2" square we did, and use 1/2" pivot bolts and studs instead of 3/8", just so it was a little more robust.
I am sorry to hear about the issues with your contractor, I am currently working another investment property with my wife, so i know what you mean about balancing house projects with car projects. Thanks for getting back to me, but during the pandemic I came up with a sliding tilt nose made from my steel fenders and hood. Check it out when you get time, here is the first time it tilted, ruclips.net/video/yBZXVhuCvGY/видео.html And here is a playlist of videos of how i did it. 1955 chevy steel tilt nose fabrication: ruclips.net/p/PLw3w9E98gkqO5FJHK74KQk6XWgYcGp3fL
We've only built this one. I haven't seen it in 5 years, because the car has been in storage since we moved. I could probably figure out some angles and lengths that would work, but you can do the same. My first mock-up was done with pins and strips of posterboard. I then moved it to balsa sticks and grabber screws, for which we used to model the steel version we put on the car. The catches we built had to wait until the hinges were on the car, and we could dzus the front end down completely. The tilt-limiters can be fabricated at any time after the hinges are permanently in place.
Hi Roger. Unfortunately, it's something we built for ourselves on-the-fly. The doors on my washing machine and dryer were the inspiration. I just had to design the tilt hinges to work in reverse. I first used strips of posterboard and straight pins pushed through as hinge points to work out the geometry, then moved up to some grabber screws holding balsa sticks representing the square tube onto a 2x4 before setting them in steel. The slideback catches are something you need to design with the car after the hinges are in place so you can trace the arc pattern the front end follows at that point. The car has been in storage for 4 years since we moved to SC, so it's not at the house, or I could provide some exact measurements. I can aproximate with cardboard strips or wood sticks again to give you an ideas. I'm away for the rest of the week. Let me know if you'd like me to do that.
Sweet fabrication work there. After reading your detailed responses to comments, I think that I can replicate something like this on a 49 Chevy I'm fiddling with. My big question is, what is the tune playing? I know that I've heard it before but can't remember a title. Reminds me of trying to find the title of ELO's "Fire On High".
It's a scratch-built one-off set. I used strips of posterboard and straight pins on a piece ceiling tile to get the geometry by copying the hinge design on my washer and dryer. I then used square balsa and pins to come up with the final design before duplicating it in steel.
Hi Jim. I'll see what I can come up with. I'll try to get to the storage unit and take some close-up photos and take some measurments. The new and unfinished car is still sitting in storage with brand new brake rotors rusting away with it's brand new trailer doing the same. We bought the trailer brand-new, loaded the car, and had my dad trailer it here, and its first load (the car) has never moved off it since. I wish someone would make an offer for the whole thing, because our new house will require our time for the rest of our lives to fix it. The contractors in SC are totally incompetent. We also don't have a vehicle that can tow the trailer.
Hi Jim. I forgot the car is still completely wrapped. However, I found a few more photos. We prototyped it with strips of poster board first, then balsa sticks on a 2x4 before fabricating the primary parts. If I can get an email to send it to, I'll send the photos I've got. It also depends on the car door/fender design, since some cars might need the front end to go further ahead than the Nova.
Hi Cliff. I was really pushing for a single stage hinge that would allow the front end to clear the doors, so I was tasked with finding a solution. I was doing laundry and loading the front-load washer one day and noticed it did exactly what we needed. When I showed Mark, we swung that door back and forth more than a dozen times to look at it. I was walking through the laundry room to head out to the shop and noticed the door missing off my washer! (I'm not kidding). I realized that Mark was serious, and saw the washer door on the shop table when I walked in. From there, we took precise measurements and doubled its size in all dimensions. I snipped out some poster board strips and drew centerlines down each one and marked the doubled lengths we measured. Then used straight pins at the marked points, but then varied each one many times until arriving at the action we wanted. Next, cut out sticks of 1/2" square balsa we had laying around (from our RC plane supplies) to replicate what we did on posterboard, which also included a long piece I used to represent the movement of the front end. All pieces were assembled with sheetrock screws on to a piece of 2x4. That also let us establish angles for the piece on the frame, and the one for the front end. After several checks and determining a resting position for when the front end is closed, we cut out our pieces of square tube and round tube for cut-off bolts to pass through and weld in as studs. We did make some brass bushings and press those in where the bolts will pivot. In the video, you can see round pieces of rod we used as aft stops since the hinges need to start from the exact same point, or the front end won't open. It took a little adjusting on the angle of the two hinge pieces after they were built. Here's a little about the geometry. 1. The forward arm sits higher on the lower mount, because it is a little shorter than the aft arm. 2. The distance between the forward and aft arms will also determine how far forward the front end goes before tilting forward. 3. You need to make sure the hinges don't rest too far aft when the front end is closed, because it will require the aft of the front end to go down before going forward, which will keep it from opening. 4. At the closed and resting position, both hinge arms are at the same angle. Their angles relative to each other continuously as the front end opens since the front arm is shorter than the rear. 5. You will need saddles for the front end to rest in when closed so all the force from air pressure or people leaning on the car is carried there, instead of on the hinges. It was a bit of a pain to design and build, but it sure works nice. I hope that helps. --Kimberly
I'm afraid not. We built just this one set. It's pretty easy to figure out. Just use some posterboard strips and something to pin it to, like a piece of ceiling tile or pin building surface. I got the idea from the door on our dryer and told my husband a Friday evening. After breakfast the next day, I went in to do some laundry and I started to load the washer when I noticed the dryer door was gone, so I knew where it was. I went out to the shop and there it was in front of my husband. It took a little studying, because it worked backwards from what we wanted. I grabbed the scissors, straight pins, and cut posterboard strips about 1/2" wide to work with. From there, I built it with 3/8" balsa sticks and sheet rock grabber screws on a scrap 2x4. Once the angles were set, we picked up the square and round steel and used aviation bolts, since they are easy to weld. Who knows. We might be selling the un-finished car here in the near future since we just don't have the time to finish it. That's one way to get the hinges. :-)
Hi Jim. Sorry, we don't at this time. We had thought about it before we moved across the country to the East. We're also kind'a homeless at the moment since the contractor on our home is now 8 months behind, leaving us living out of suitcases the whole time, and don't have access to our equipment.
Thank you for the closeup, neat kinematics.
Nice work.. 👍
very cool
Badass shit right there
Wow thats a nice set up but id have to be a mech genius to make that :-)
Just cut out 4 strips of posterboard, and pin the together in a similar arrangement, then move the pins around until they move like you want them to. Scale as needed.
I would be interested in a detailed drawings if you sell them? Also, would a steel nose be to heavy for this setup I wonder? Clears the doors? Amazing.
We've been buried in fixing and finishing our new house, which is a major lemon with massive problems left over by our incompetent contractor. I've had several people ask for drawings, so I'll try and get it done ASAP. My husband was wanted something simple and just flex out the fenders, but it just seemed like such a pain and so easy to scratch the doors. He told me if I could come up with a better idea, he'd entertain it. A couple days later on a Friday evening, I was doing some miscellaneous laundry, but noticed how the doors on our washer and dryer work, and thought -- Bingo! -- then showed it to him. Saturday morning, I went to do some more laundry, and the door from my new washer was missing! I knew right then where it had to be, so I immediately put on my grubbies and went into the shop -- and there it was, right on the workbench with him figuring out how to build it in reverse when compared to the washer door. We made some rectangular arms with center lines on poster board, and started using straight pins to figure out pivots and lengths so we could see how it worked and make sure it had the necessary forward travel and tilt. I then built it out of balsa sticks onto a 2x4 using grabber screws very gently, until I had replicated. We played with it for hours to make sure everything would clear before committing the design to steel. If we were to do it again, i'd use 3/4" square or 3/4" x 1/2" steel instead of 1/2" square we did, and use 1/2" pivot bolts and studs instead of 3/8", just so it was a little more robust.
I am sorry to hear about the issues with your contractor, I am currently working another investment property with my wife, so i know what you mean about balancing house projects with car projects. Thanks for getting back to me, but during the pandemic I came up with a sliding tilt nose made from my steel fenders and hood. Check it out when you get time, here is the first time it tilted,
ruclips.net/video/yBZXVhuCvGY/видео.html
And here is a playlist of videos of how i did it.
1955 chevy steel tilt nose fabrication: ruclips.net/p/PLw3w9E98gkqO5FJHK74KQk6XWgYcGp3fL
Can you built this again
We've only built this one. I haven't seen it in 5 years, because the car has been in storage since we moved. I could probably figure out some angles and lengths that would work, but you can do the same. My first mock-up was done with pins and strips of posterboard. I then moved it to balsa sticks and grabber screws, for which we used to model the steel version we put on the car. The catches we built had to wait until the hinges were on the car, and we could dzus the front end down completely. The tilt-limiters can be fabricated at any time after the hinges are permanently in place.
How can I get a set of gasser hinge set for my car
Hi Roger. Unfortunately, it's something we built for ourselves on-the-fly. The doors on my washing machine and dryer were the inspiration. I just had to design the tilt hinges to work in reverse. I first used strips of posterboard and straight pins pushed through as hinge points to work out the geometry, then moved up to some grabber screws holding balsa sticks representing the square tube onto a 2x4 before setting them in steel. The slideback catches are something you need to design with the car after the hinges are in place so you can trace the arc pattern the front end follows at that point. The car has been in storage for 4 years since we moved to SC, so it's not at the house, or I could provide some exact measurements. I can aproximate with cardboard strips or wood sticks again to give you an ideas. I'm away for the rest of the week. Let me know if you'd like me to do that.
Would you please show how the fenders clear the doors in another video.
Ken. Sorry, but we moved across the country, and the car is still wrapped up in storage. However, we're getting close to being able to bring it home.
Sweet fabrication work there. After reading your detailed responses to comments, I think that I can replicate something like this on a 49 Chevy I'm fiddling with. My big question is, what is the tune playing? I know that I've heard it before but can't remember a title. Reminds me of trying to find the title of ELO's "Fire On High".
It was out of RUclips's limited library.
We're can I buy the tilt front end hinge setup
It's a scratch-built one-off set. I used strips of posterboard and straight pins on a piece ceiling tile to get the geometry by copying the hinge design on my washer and dryer. I then used square balsa and pins to come up with the final design before duplicating it in steel.
Hey! Come to Milwaukee and build one for my '55 Chevy, how much would it cost?
A lot. ;-) We're in SC.
@@aviatrix2 do you have a kit? I'd be interested in one
Have you been able to get settled yet? I am still interested in a kit/drawings
Hi Jim. I'll see what I can come up with. I'll try to get to the storage unit and take some close-up photos and take some measurments. The new and unfinished car is still sitting in storage with brand new brake rotors rusting away with it's brand new trailer doing the same. We bought the trailer brand-new, loaded the car, and had my dad trailer it here, and its first load (the car) has never moved off it since. I wish someone would make an offer for the whole thing, because our new house will require our time for the rest of our lives to fix it. The contractors in SC are totally incompetent. We also don't have a vehicle that can tow the trailer.
Hi Jim. I forgot the car is still completely wrapped. However, I found a few more photos. We prototyped it with strips of poster board first, then balsa sticks on a 2x4 before fabricating the primary parts. If I can get an email to send it to, I'll send the photos I've got. It also depends on the car door/fender design, since some cars might need the front end to go further ahead than the Nova.
Is there any way you can walk me through how to make a set of these Hinges I’m really wanting to do this on my gasser
Hi Cliff. I was really pushing for a single stage hinge that would allow the front end to clear the doors, so I was tasked with finding a solution. I was doing laundry and loading the front-load washer one day and noticed it did exactly what we needed. When I showed Mark, we swung that door back and forth more than a dozen times to look at it. I was walking through the laundry room to head out to the shop and noticed the door missing off my washer! (I'm not kidding). I realized that Mark was serious, and saw the washer door on the shop table when I walked in.
From there, we took precise measurements and doubled its size in all dimensions. I snipped out some poster board strips and drew centerlines down each one and marked the doubled lengths we measured. Then used straight pins at the marked points, but then varied each one many times until arriving at the action we wanted.
Next, cut out sticks of 1/2" square balsa we had laying around (from our RC plane supplies) to replicate what we did on posterboard, which also included a long piece I used to represent the movement of the front end. All pieces were assembled with sheetrock screws on to a piece of 2x4. That also let us establish angles for the piece on the frame, and the one for the front end.
After several checks and determining a resting position for when the front end is closed, we cut out our pieces of square tube and round tube for cut-off bolts to pass through and weld in as studs. We did make some brass bushings and press those in where the bolts will pivot. In the video, you can see round pieces of rod we used as aft stops since the hinges need to start from the exact same point, or the front end won't open. It took a little adjusting on the angle of the two hinge pieces after they were built.
Here's a little about the geometry. 1. The forward arm sits higher on the lower mount, because it is a little shorter than the aft arm. 2. The distance between the forward and aft arms will also determine how far forward the front end goes before tilting forward. 3. You need to make sure the hinges don't rest too far aft when the front end is closed, because it will require the aft of the front end to go down before going forward, which will keep it from opening. 4. At the closed and resting position, both hinge arms are at the same angle. Their angles relative to each other continuously as the front end opens since the front arm is shorter than the rear. 5. You will need saddles for the front end to rest in when closed so all the force from air pressure or people leaning on the car is carried there, instead of on the hinges.
It was a bit of a pain to design and build, but it sure works nice. I hope that helps.
--Kimberly
@@aviatrix2 Thanks for that explanation and making this video even more informative, great story there too !
Can we see the rest of the hood?
I'll have to check the video I have on hand, since the car is wrapped in storage and we are stuck between homes until our new home is finished.
Any chance of purchasing a set? Very cool would like a set for my father in-laws 55 gasser
I'm afraid we're not manufacturing them. We probably couldn't afford to sell them since they take several hours to make.
@@aviatrix2 do you have any blueprints of your design? I'm willing to buy to fab up a set.
@@aviatrix2 I'm in SC also. I want one.
where can i buy these
We had to build them from scratch. However, we are evaluating a price point to see if we can build them to sell.
Do you sell the system ?
I'm afraid not. We built just this one set. It's pretty easy to figure out. Just use some posterboard strips and something to pin it to, like a piece of ceiling tile or pin building surface. I got the idea from the door on our dryer and told my husband a Friday evening. After breakfast the next day, I went in to do some laundry and I started to load the washer when I noticed the dryer door was gone, so I knew where it was. I went out to the shop and there it was in front of my husband. It took a little studying, because it worked backwards from what we wanted. I grabbed the scissors, straight pins, and cut posterboard strips about 1/2" wide to work with. From there, I built it with 3/8" balsa sticks and sheet rock grabber screws on a scrap 2x4. Once the angles were set, we picked up the square and round steel and used aviation bolts, since they are easy to weld. Who knows. We might be selling the un-finished car here in the near future since we just don't have the time to finish it. That's one way to get the hinges. :-)
Do you sell this hinge kit?
Hi Jim. Sorry, we don't at this time. We had thought about it before we moved across the country to the East. We're also kind'a homeless at the moment since the contractor on our home is now 8 months behind, leaving us living out of suitcases the whole time, and don't have access to our equipment.
Neet but way to complicated for me I prefer simple because simple is reliable.
way out of my IQ to make! lol, i will leave it to the pros to make and i will just weld it if it cracks!