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We've only built this one. I haven't seen it in 5 years, because the car has been in storage since we moved. I could probably figure out some angles and lengths that would work, but you can do the same. My first mock-up was done with pins and strips of posterboard. I then moved it to balsa sticks and grabber screws, for which we used to model the steel version we put on the car. The catches we built had to wait until the hinges were on the car, and we could dzus the front end down completely. The tilt-limiters can be fabricated at any time after the hinges are permanently in place.

Actually, I do. I've had to replace the main drive gear after the aluminum shaft holding the tail drive gear wore out, and started wearing the teeth at an angle. Kind'a like cross-threading a bolt. I found a performance upgrade that supported the shaft at the front which held a new main rotor shaft bearing,, but Ihad to make a new steel bearing shaft for the wire tail drive so it would pilot into the the upgrade with a bearing to support the front of the tail drive shaft at the main drive gear. Kind of a pain, but the gears are much quieter now, and I still enjoy flying it. I get a full 7+ minutes flight times, and it's 2-1/2 pounds lighter than the OS 37H setup.

@@aviatrix2 Cool to know 😁😁

Hi Roger. Unfortunately, it's something we built for ourselves on-the-fly. The doors on my washing machine and dryer were the inspiration. I just had to design the tilt hinges to work in reverse. I first used strips of posterboard and straight pins pushed through as hinge points to work out the geometry, then moved up to some grabber screws holding balsa sticks representing the square tube onto a 2x4 before setting them in steel. The slideback catches are something you need to design with the car after the hinges are in place so you can trace the arc pattern the front end follows at that point. The car has been in storage for 4 years since we moved to SC, so it's not at the house, or I could provide some exact measurements. I can aproximate with cardboard strips or wood sticks again to give you an ideas. I'm away for the rest of the week. Let me know if you'd like me to do that.

You bet!! It resides right at the house with us, though we are now on the east coast.

@@aviatrix2 I'm looking at a Titan Tornado 1. Over in Wadsworth. It will be a 2 hour flight if I purchase it. Live near Holland Michigan.

It's a scratch-built one-off set. I used strips of posterboard and straight pins on a piece ceiling tile to get the geometry by copying the hinge design on my washer and dryer. I then used square balsa and pins to come up with the final design before duplicating it in steel.

I'm afraid not. We built just this one set. It's pretty easy to figure out. Just use some posterboard strips and something to pin it to, like a piece of ceiling tile or pin building surface. I got the idea from the door on our dryer and told my husband a Friday evening. After breakfast the next day, I went in to do some laundry and I started to load the washer when I noticed the dryer door was gone, so I knew where it was. I went out to the shop and there it was in front of my husband. It took a little studying, because it worked backwards from what we wanted. I grabbed the scissors, straight pins, and cut posterboard strips about 1/2" wide to work with. From there, I built it with 3/8" balsa sticks and sheet rock grabber screws on a scrap 2x4. Once the angles were set, we picked up the square and round steel and used aviation bolts, since they are easy to weld. Who knows. We might be selling the un-finished car here in the near future since we just don't have the time to finish it. That's one way to get the hinges. :-)

Thank you. :-)

You would be right. We've now got it in South Carolina at our house in a private airpark.

Warp Drive HPL hub/60"/2-blade/special narrow taper profile we(Motion Aero) worked with Warp to develop. You have to specify it with Warp when ordering.

@@aviatrix2 Thanks for the answer. Are you have email contact “Motion Aero”?

Hi Jim. I'll see what I can come up with. I'll try to get to the storage unit and take some close-up photos and take some measurments. The new and unfinished car is still sitting in storage with brand new brake rotors rusting away with it's brand new trailer doing the same. We bought the trailer brand-new, loaded the car, and had my dad trailer it here, and its first load (the car) has never moved off it since. I wish someone would make an offer for the whole thing, because our new house will require our time for the rest of our lives to fix it. The contractors in SC are totally incompetent. We also don't have a vehicle that can tow the trailer.

Hi Jim. I forgot the car is still completely wrapped. However, I found a few more photos. We prototyped it with strips of poster board first, then balsa sticks on a 2x4 before fabricating the primary parts. If I can get an email to send it to, I'll send the photos I've got. It also depends on the car door/fender design, since some cars might need the front end to go further ahead than the Nova.

Ken. Sorry, but we moved across the country, and the car is still wrapped up in storage. However, we're getting close to being able to bring it home.

It was out of RUclips's limited library.

Hi there. Because you can only get leaded fuel at airports, a 2-stroke limits how far you can go, plus the pain of having to carry a gallon of oil for a cross country flight and not have the room to do that. When we sold the plane, the new owner paid us to install the Jabiru. When we bought the plane as a flying rebuild project, it came with the 618. Since we ended up replacing all the horizontal flight surfaces and controls(due to extensive prior damage and improper repairs), we couldn't afford to replace the 618 with a Jabiru at the time. During the rebuild, I was able to make the 618 the cleanest and most compact installation I had seen, including the intake silencer. It was also quieter than the Jabiru because it ran a 3-bladed prop. In the end, the Jabiru was more fun due to the extra power and light weight, as well as burning less fuel.

@@aviatrix2 Thank you so much for your detailed reply...very interesting and very useful! Did you have any reliability issues with the 618 during the time you were flying with it?

@@aviatrix2 What caused the damage and what was damaged?

Thanks Rob! I hope things are going as well as they can.

It was the Hex Orchestra, with midi to the Alesis with orchestra there to boost the bass.

Thank you.

Just cut out 4 strips of posterboard, and pin the together in a similar arrangement, then move the pins around until they move like you want them to. Scale as needed.

Hi Robert. Yes, but not here. The direction of operation has a lot to do with space limitations and logistics around the engine and cockpit which can limit the positioning of the input and output of control cables. Our tandem-seating experimental aircraft has the engine controls(i.e. throttle and mixture) on the left side of the cockpit. In this case, we were limited to lever-actuated controls instead of push/pull on the instrument panel. However, it also means it is easy to reverse the direction of travel by which side of the lever pivot the cable is attached. We also built a simple, but clever locking mechanism on the mixture lever with a push-button on the end of the lever which keeps it locked in position unless you hold the button down to move it, which also keeps it from inadvertent changes by the pilot since it is directly below the throttle lever on the same pivot. It also has a spring which provides feedback at full-rich, so if you push it beyond that point, you will actuate the primer circuit. I wanted to build the locking cam for our mixture lever so it would also lock out the primer when the button was pressed, but my husband didn't like the idea since you can feel it hit the spring anyway.

We had to build them from scratch. However, we are evaluating a price point to see if we can build them to sell.

It was the Hex Orchestra, but I increased the velocity threshold for the timpani, so I didn't have to hammer the keys so hard on the left hand to trigger them.

We were asking $36,000. It cost over $48,000 to build.

We've been buried in fixing and finishing our new house, which is a major lemon with massive problems left over by our incompetent contractor. I've had several people ask for drawings, so I'll try and get it done ASAP. My husband was wanted something simple and just flex out the fenders, but it just seemed like such a pain and so easy to scratch the doors. He told me if I could come up with a better idea, he'd entertain it. A couple days later on a Friday evening, I was doing some miscellaneous laundry, but noticed how the doors on our washer and dryer work, and thought -- Bingo! -- then showed it to him. Saturday morning, I went to do some more laundry, and the door from my new washer was missing! I knew right then where it had to be, so I immediately put on my grubbies and went into the shop -- and there it was, right on the workbench with him figuring out how to build it in reverse when compared to the washer door. We made some rectangular arms with center lines on poster board, and started using straight pins to figure out pivots and lengths so we could see how it worked and make sure it had the necessary forward travel and tilt. I then built it out of balsa sticks onto a 2x4 using grabber screws very gently, until I had replicated. We played with it for hours to make sure everything would clear before committing the design to steel. If we were to do it again, i'd use 3/4" square or 3/4" x 1/2" steel instead of 1/2" square we did, and use 1/2" pivot bolts and studs instead of 3/8", just so it was a little more robust.

I am sorry to hear about the issues with your contractor, I am currently working another investment property with my wife, so i know what you mean about balancing house projects with car projects. Thanks for getting back to me, but during the pandemic I came up with a sliding tilt nose made from my steel fenders and hood. Check it out when you get time, here is the first time it tilted, ruclips.net/video/yBZXVhuCvGY/видео.html And here is a playlist of videos of how i did it. 1955 chevy steel tilt nose fabrication: ruclips.net/p/PLw3w9E98gkqO5FJHK74KQk6XWgYcGp3fL

Too many seats, too heavy and too fast. These are E/AB, LSA-compliant 2 seat, 600+ pounds, 110-135+ mph cruise, depending on the engine. Not even close for the stupid U.S. regs, which are as described for UL: 1 seat, 254 lbs., 55 mph max.

I'm afraid not at this time, but we might consider it in the somewhat near future. We're currently displaced while our home is nearing completion after being a year and a half late so far. We enjoy making this stuff. However, some of the parts would be elimiated on a new TBI since the regulator is now part of the throttle body, hence more appealing for us to build for production.

@@aviatrix2 I have the MK1 so this setup is perfect, still not possible? Thanks for getting back so quickly

It's been a couple months. Any chance you'll get to it now or maybe email me some pictures please to Robert at TheSchmids dot org? Thanks Robert

PS: I am looking into buying the newer model now btw

Location is UT99, West Desert Air Park, Lehi, UT

The Kits range from 20k to 26yk plus engine, instruments, prop and paint. First time builders.usually spend about 350-400 hours to complete.

Thank you Kenny. You are too kind. :-) I wish I still had access to the band, or any band now. i really miss it, even though my life stress and MS kept rattling me at performances last year, I finally got a grip on it. Even though we're still living out of suitcases for the last 8 months (since the house is still not finished due to SC contractors), I do manage to practice nearly every day.