Not going to lie, that's a good looking knife man. I've been in this hobby for 12 year now and I really like your style. Keep up the good work, always seek critiques, keep inventing and maybe I'll see you at Bladeshow someday!
LOVE the fact that you tapered the tang. You're actually putting the effort where it's needed. So many UT "forge masters" make gorgeous (2 the eye) knives that are actually very low in quality and quite heavy (probably weirdly balanced also). Lighter is always better and if you don't like the balance of it-add a pommel. The symmetry of the forge weld was a bit off in the tang. Probably cause of the rounded dies. Make things that are functional-not interesting. The elegance will come from the function and the beauty will come from the elegance. DO NOT normalize 3 times before quenching. Once is enough.
@@caleboppelt3838 To normalise the crystal structure before the quench ONCE is enough. Juuuust right. When heating 3 times only the last time counts. Beside, any more than once and you're burning carbon for nothing. The more the iron (steel) is heated-the more carbon it's going to loose. That's why the best master blacksmiths are trying to forge in as few heating cycles as possible. It's good that you asked. Keep asking hard questions and you will become one to. BTW the correct normalising temp. for (any) carbon steel is it's specification hardening temp.+30C. For stainless is pretty much always around 860C. GL!
It is OK to normalize 3 times and for most steel it is recommended by the producers to get the best quench...it does indeed lose carbon when heated but never enough to dramatically hinder the knifemaking process
There's been a few metallurgists on RUclips explaining why you don't need to normalize any more than one time. The last, higher temp normalize completely nullifies anything the other cycles did.
Okay, so first off... that's a wicked little Skinner, good work. Second... a little tip, when you're working up to your hardening heat (especially with San Mai and Damascus steel) Always put your blade into the forge Tang first as that's the thickest point of the blade and doing so will minimize the chance that you'll get a warp or a crack in the blade whilst quenching it.
Amazing work! I really appreciate the craftsmanship that goes into making stainless San mai. On another note, I am curious as to how you run your forge, psi, air choke, etc… I have the same one and would like to know some of the specifics to compare to mine, especially for operations like forge welding which require higher heat.
I generally have the choke 3/4 the way up, but I'm not sure about psi. I believe the best thing you can do for forge welding is allowed your steel to soak for a few minutes.
![Forging Big San Mai Damascus Bowie Knife [Epic Full Build] From Saw Blade + 80CrV2 Hand Forged Knife](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/C4QPlPxxh7c/mqdefault.jpg)
The knife is SOLD! If you want one like it, email me at caleb@knightforgeknives.com.
When will you have another for sale. Looks great,Bo
Hopefully soon, this one was fun to make.
That is a good idea using the angle iron for ht! I’ll try it!
Not going to lie, that's a good looking knife man. I've been in this hobby for 12 year now and I really like your style. Keep up the good work, always seek critiques, keep inventing and maybe I'll see you at Bladeshow someday!
LOVE the fact that you tapered the tang. You're actually putting the effort where it's needed. So many UT "forge masters" make gorgeous (2 the eye) knives that are actually very low in quality and quite heavy (probably weirdly balanced also). Lighter is always better and if you don't like the balance of it-add a pommel. The symmetry of the forge weld was a bit off in the tang. Probably cause of the rounded dies. Make things that are functional-not interesting. The elegance will come from the function and the beauty will come from the elegance. DO NOT normalize 3 times before quenching. Once is enough.
Thanks! Why shouldn't I normalize three times?
@@caleboppelt3838 To normalise the crystal structure before the quench ONCE is enough. Juuuust right. When heating 3 times only the last time counts. Beside, any more than once and you're burning carbon for nothing. The more the iron (steel) is heated-the more carbon it's going to loose. That's why the best master blacksmiths are trying to forge in as few heating cycles as possible. It's good that you asked. Keep asking hard questions and you will become one to. BTW the correct normalising temp. for (any) carbon steel is it's specification hardening temp.+30C. For stainless is pretty much always around 860C. GL!
It is OK to normalize 3 times and for most steel it is recommended by the producers to get the best quench...it does indeed lose carbon when heated but never enough to dramatically hinder the knifemaking process
There's been a few metallurgists on RUclips explaining why you don't need to normalize any more than one time. The last, higher temp normalize completely nullifies anything the other cycles did.
Okay, so first off... that's a wicked little Skinner, good work.
Second... a little tip, when you're working up to your hardening heat (especially with San Mai and Damascus steel) Always put your blade into the forge
Tang first as that's the thickest point of the blade and doing so will minimize the chance that you'll get a warp or a crack in the blade whilst quenching
it.
Looks awesome!! Great craftsmanship!
good job
This looks amazing!
Dude, incredible work
Beautiful hamon line San Mai.
Great looking blade right there!
Looks great man, good job.
Good looking blade, well done!
Great looking knife! Well done 👍
Congrats, wish I could have this knife.
Very beautiful blade keep it up
Well done!
Good job, could have hot punched the pin holes 👍
Beautiful my guy
Caleb another great build that knife came out great where do you get the SS for your knives can you share a link thanks Mark👍👍
Amazing work! I really appreciate the craftsmanship that goes into making stainless San mai. On another note, I am curious as to how you run your forge, psi, air choke, etc… I have the same one and would like to know some of the specifics to compare to mine, especially for operations like forge welding which require higher heat.
I generally have the choke 3/4 the way up, but I'm not sure about psi. I believe the best thing you can do for forge welding is allowed your steel to soak for a few minutes.
Amazing!!
Sensacional 👏🏼 👏🏼 👏🏼 👏🏼
caleb can you tell me where you get your SS sheets are very expensive thanks appreciate it, Mark
I got it as a gift, I'm not sure where I got it from. Sorry I couldn't help.
What the stainless tipe? 304 or 311?
410
💯🙌👍👌👏👏👏👏👏🇦🇷