I wished that he would have had the camera closer. I don't need to watch Jason, I need to watch what his hands are doing. I might have used this information to modify none stinger zappers.
Oh man, I wish I had this dude as my neighbor. Seems like one of those dudes that knows how to fix anything, and has every part ever made in his junk box. They don't make guys like this anymore!
There's lots of us still out there, but don't judge me by the shop in the video, that was a friend's shop I was working in at the time. He has a lot more tools than I personally have room to store. Still, the basic rule for any tinkerer is "Don't throw anything out that can be reused or re-purposed". As far as knowing how to fix things, nearly everything is learned at some point, you can't gain more knowledge unless you seek it out. It's not magic. At a certain level, the things you have learned will point to solutions for things you haven't learned yet. It's a cumulative process, you just have to be willing to keep learning new things.
I am visually impaired so if I missed something in the video let me know I thought that in 120v ac circuits the black was always hot and white neutral. In the video I think you might of had something different. I am a DIY electrical tinkerer and from my understanding the white should always be neutral in a circuit like this. Whenever I am wiring simple circuits like this I always as a rool of thumb make sure that the larger prong of the plug (neutral) terminates at the screw contact of the lamp socket. Was neutral in your machine white or black. I am using a speach synthesizer on my computer that prevents me from rewinding thats why I ask. Thanks for this amazing video and teaching us all this cool new trick! You sure are resourceful and props for recycling and salvaging parts to have around! I do the same. Who ever said hording was a bad thing needs to go step on a lego! You definitely gotta check out freecycle its like craigslist for free stuff.
You are correct, hot is black. Many light fixtures have screws for both terminals, the rule in such cases is that the hot (black) terminals goes to the end of the bulb socket and the neutral (white) goes to the bulb threads. I intend to be posting an update at some point in which I'll be using 12 volt LED tape to see how that works. The only problem with the LED tape is that it's not true ultraviolet.
I have an old Stinger UV15 zapper from the 90's that still lights up bulbs but won't zap. Could a bad starter cause the wire grills to cease functioning or more likely a transformer failure?
The high voltage comes from the transformer exclusively. If it's not zapping, check the transformer with an ohm meter for continuity. However, unless something has happened to damage the transformer physically, it's more likely a bad connection somewhere, either where the AC connects to the transformer ir where the transformer connects to the wire grid. Since these things tend to remain outside in all kinds of weather, corrosion of the connections is not unusual.
I realize your video is quite old, but I’m hoping you still view and answer comments. I have a BK300 it had been zapping bugs and lightning up until the 17th of August. We had high winds on the late evening August 17th. These high winds tore tree tops and knocked down trees. It blew furniture across our back deck. The light still works on my zapper and bugs are going to the light. I can see them walking on the light itself. Because this is happening it isn’t zapping the bugs anymore. I’ve looked for a way to remove the top so I can inspect the guts closer to main power switch. I’m almost certain that the winds were knocking the dickens out of my zapper. But as stated light works it’s just not zapping. Please help if you can.
@@sherrylantrip9328 I'm not familiar with that particular model, but they all work on the same principle. Without taking it apart, you might be able to inspect and make sure that the wires going to the high voltage grid are still connected, it's possible one of them has been dislodged. On most models I've worked with, it's simply crimped on. If you get it apart (with power disconnected), you should find the high voltage transformer inside. The output goes to the grid, one wire to the inside grid and one to the outside grid. That's my best guess. It's also possible that something shorted the grid and burned out the transformer, though not as likely.
TY I’ve inspected the wires on the outside and all are connected as should be. So that means it’s inside or shall I say under the hood if you will. I’ll have to figure out how to get it opened without damaging it so I’ll be able to close it again.
Ok I’ve finally got it apart. Inspected and found the power supply to the grid is bad. I’ve searched Amazon with the numbers on the unit and found nothing. How do I find one and what exactly is it called other than transformer. If I could send a picture of what I have it might could help you help me if at all. Thank you so much.
@@sherrylantrip9328 you might check your local thrift shops, yard sales, etc for one's that the light doesn't work on any more. Keyword searching for high voltage bug light transformer might be helpful as well.
@@sherrylantrip9328 How did you take it apart? I have to do the same thing, and I can't see any obvious way to take it apart and/or "unsnap" the cover from the body. Please help!!
Great idea converting to a regular bulb. I've been trying to get my old vintage Flintrol 25 watt, 3/4 acre zapper light working again. Bought a new replacement CFM for it. Had to modify the bottom screen to let the new bulb hang out a little since I couldn't find a 25w bulb 7" like my original. Plugged in and the new bulb looks like it wants to light, but only slightly glows, and isn't a black light like I ordered. It's only a slight orange glow. Tried replacing starter just in case, but the new one, the same FL-25 still doesn't fully light the bulb? Can you make any suggestions on what else might be wrong? Wanna kill some skeeters some kind of bad! Stumped...
The ballast transformer may not be powerful enough to drive a higher wattage bulb. If you don't mind the extra light, you might try finding a white bulb that fits and is the correct wattage
@@JasonSimpson1966 Hi Jason. Thank you for such a quick reply. Actually the bulb I ordered was supposed to be the correct wattage, it's 25w just like the original. It's just an inch and a half longer.
Harold Leistikow Jason, I have a Flotron 80D 1-1/2 acre Bug zapper. The electrocution grill and one of the lights have the transformers tied together. There are two black wires coming out of one of those transformers and two red coming out of the other. I don't know how to tie the electrocution grill transformer into the one twenty lines for the UV light. Do you have any suggestions?
The wires going to the grid are the high voltage side. The other 2 wires are the 120v side. One goes to hot and one to neutral on your household plug in. If you don't have either side of the transformer connected right now, you are going to have to test the resistance on both sides of the transformer. On a step up transformer, the secondary (output side) should have a higher resistance than the primary (input 120v). The socket for the CFL bulb just goes across the 120 lines. You should set the hot line for the center button on the base of the socket and the neutral on the threads.
Traditionally, yes, but with everything made in China these days, always double check things. the hot (black) lead should go to the center post of the light socket, and the neutral to the screw fixture.
@@RRMIAMI not yet, but I have it in the plans. I ordered some UV LED light tape I am going to wrap around a piece of PVC pipe and try substituting that, if it's in the correct spectrum, it should work.
@@JasonSimpson1966 I thought about that as well or just using a led bulb but I do not think the led bulb will have sufficient light to attract bugs but I could be wrong. Thanks again and I will be doing my mod soon.
The starter is one of the major failings in these devices. that was why I made this video on converting them to use a standard light bulb socket and using a CFL bulb. The starter bulbs in these lamps vary from one model to the next, so the method of removing just the starter and replacing it varies.If you just want to replace the starter, I would suggest removing the connector for the starter and replacing it with a wire nut, then you can wire in whatever starter is appropriate for the wattage bulb your lamp happens to be.
You wouldn't happen to have a transformer for a Sears Bugwacker or equivalent Flowtron 1 acre build you'd be willing to part with? It's a 120V .8A to 5500V 9MA transformer. I accidentally drilled into the transformer winding thinking the twist drill wouldn't catch and will be a while before I get to re-winding the transformer. I found a porcelain small diameter base socket and was mounting. Then... ew... next time disassemble when I have sadist ELINT hackathon going on babbling away into everything including thin air in my perimeter. Thanks in advance for your time and great video. Thorough detail.
jafinch78 Unfortunately, no, I don't have any spare transformers. However, you might consider using a transformer from a junk microwave oven. Those are typically easy to pick up, people throw them in the garbage all the time, often in still working condition.
Jason Simpson: Yeah... they're larger in size though could run off a wire and locate the transformer elsewhere. Kind of interesting studying the gap sizing for the transformer voltage and current and custom making a zapper also. I'll have to do a "microwave" or "bug zapper" "site:craiglist.org" search.
jafinch78 the smaller "dorm room" microwaves have a smaller transformer, and those are the ones I usually see in the trash. I've got a couple of them that I am planning on building a spot welder out of, though I haven't gotten around to it yet. Been focused on trying to get my 3D printer working reliably.
Jason Simpson: Thanks for the insight. I'll see what I can find when I'm out Goodwill Shopping or out. Not sure if you have wherever you're from; I just last week found in MN (Minneapolis and St. Paul) and I've read online they have others... all electronics are 29 cents at their "Goodwill Outlet Stores" unless marked in the cabinet otherwise. Went up to pick up a Tektronix 475A I got for $25 at Shopgoodwill.com. Unfortunately, where I live... there aren't as many into electronics like back in the Heathkit Zenith days (I'm working down in Coloma, MI). Thanks again man!
jafinch78 here in Montana we have Goodwill, but not outlet stores. 29¢ is as good as a trash pick, though, and well worth the scrap value. Good luck with your project.
Glad you found it useful. I always prefer repurpose/repair rather than disposal, although sometimes disposal is the only viable option (with recycling as part of the disposal process).
Your video would have been a lot better if you had your camera positioned for a close up shot. You talk about cutting wires and etc., but I have no idea what you were doing. The camera was sitting on a bench in your dimly lit work shop, too far away to observe properly. Maybe you can make another video, well lit and up close.
I appreciate all feedback, but I would just like to make a couple of minor points. 1) I am not a professional RUclips content creator. I don't have multi-camera setups or elaborate video-editing software. Additionally, this was one of the first videos i ever filmed for sharing on RUclips, and my video experience was (and still is) is minimal. 2) The shop actually is well lit. Unfortunately, the light behind me swamped out the camera (seee previous comment on video experience). 3) The wiring inside these devices is not complicated. If you cannot understand the necessary steps to disconnect one light fixture and connect another one, then you should not be attempting this project. High voltage can kill, and should not be worked on by inexperienced persons. 4) I would have to have another of these lights to fix to re-shoot the video. As the person I salvaged this light from has had me perform the conversion on all four of his other lights already, I would have to find one in someone's trash to re-record the conversion, and they really are not that common around here. Having said that, I am learning and will keep your suggestions on recording videos in mind in the future.
Is I've stated previously, I'm not a professional RUclipsr, I don't have a lot of expensive camera gear or lighting setups. If you don't already have enough skill or knowledge to understand what I presented, you likely shouldn't be messing around with high voltages and should seek the assistance of someone more qualified.
you are soooo lucky. i tried this before seeing this video... however, my bug zapper (flowtron pm1500 bugfighter, with the older style kill grid chicken wire style, very nice kill grid... newer pm1500's had the newer kill grid) anyway, there was no seprate ballest transformer, so when i removed the light and starter, it only lasted a day. i guess i over powered it, didnt kill but 40 flys maybe... smelt like burnt transformer.... nasty smelling, i had to throw it away, i should have took pictures for the serial number... i still have the bug zapper, only threw away the smelly transformer...
I wished that he would have had the camera closer. I don't need to watch Jason, I need to watch what his hands are doing. I might have used this information to modify none stinger zappers.
Oh man, I wish I had this dude as my neighbor. Seems like one of those dudes that knows how to fix anything, and has every part ever made in his junk box. They don't make guys like this anymore!
There's lots of us still out there, but don't judge me by the shop in the video, that was a friend's shop I was working in at the time. He has a lot more tools than I personally have room to store. Still, the basic rule for any tinkerer is "Don't throw anything out that can be reused or re-purposed".
As far as knowing how to fix things, nearly everything is learned at some point, you can't gain more knowledge unless you seek it out. It's not magic. At a certain level, the things you have learned will point to solutions for things you haven't learned yet. It's a cumulative process, you just have to be willing to keep learning new things.
I am visually impaired so if I missed something in the video let me know
I thought that in 120v ac circuits the black was always hot and white neutral.
In the video I think you might of had something different.
I am a DIY electrical tinkerer and from my understanding the white should always be neutral in a circuit like this. Whenever I am wiring simple circuits like this I always as a rool of thumb make sure that the larger prong of the plug (neutral) terminates at the screw contact of the lamp socket. Was neutral in your machine white or black. I am using a speach synthesizer on my computer that prevents me from rewinding thats why I ask. Thanks for this amazing video and teaching us all this cool new trick! You sure are resourceful and props for recycling and salvaging parts to have around! I do the same. Who ever said hording was a bad thing needs to go step on a lego!
You definitely gotta check out freecycle its like craigslist for free stuff.
You are correct, hot is black. Many light fixtures have screws for both terminals, the rule in such cases is that the hot (black) terminals goes to the end of the bulb socket and the neutral (white) goes to the bulb threads.
I intend to be posting an update at some point in which I'll be using 12 volt LED tape to see how that works. The only problem with the LED tape is that it's not true ultraviolet.
@@JasonSimpson1966
thanks!
cool! Looking forward to seeing that hack!
I have an old Stinger UV15 zapper from the 90's that still lights up bulbs but won't zap. Could a bad starter cause the wire grills to cease functioning or more likely a transformer failure?
The high voltage comes from the transformer exclusively. If it's not zapping, check the transformer with an ohm meter for continuity. However, unless something has happened to damage the transformer physically, it's more likely a bad connection somewhere, either where the AC connects to the transformer ir where the transformer connects to the wire grid. Since these things tend to remain outside in all kinds of weather, corrosion of the connections is not unusual.
Any chance you could do another one of these videos from a close up. I’m interested
To do another conversion, I wold need to find another light. I may do a follow-up with close-ups of the converted parts, though. Good suggestion.
I realize your video is quite old, but I’m hoping you still view and answer comments. I have a BK300 it had been zapping bugs and lightning up until the 17th of August. We had high winds on the late evening August 17th. These high winds tore tree tops and knocked down trees. It blew furniture across our back deck. The light still works on my zapper and bugs are going to the light. I can see them walking on the light itself. Because this is happening it isn’t zapping the bugs anymore. I’ve looked for a way to remove the top so I can inspect the guts closer to main power switch. I’m almost certain that the winds were knocking the dickens out of my zapper. But as stated light works it’s just not zapping. Please help if you can.
@@sherrylantrip9328 I'm not familiar with that particular model, but they all work on the same principle.
Without taking it apart, you might be able to inspect and make sure that the wires going to the high voltage grid are still connected, it's possible one of them has been dislodged.
On most models I've worked with, it's simply crimped on.
If you get it apart (with power disconnected), you should find the high voltage transformer inside. The output goes to the grid, one wire to the inside grid and one to the outside grid.
That's my best guess. It's also possible that something shorted the grid and burned out the transformer, though not as likely.
TY I’ve inspected the wires on the outside and all are connected as should be. So that means it’s inside or shall I say under the hood if you will. I’ll have to figure out how to get it opened without damaging it so I’ll be able to close it again.
Ok I’ve finally got it apart. Inspected and found the power supply to the grid is bad. I’ve searched Amazon with the numbers on the unit and found nothing. How do I find one and what exactly is it called other than transformer. If I could send a picture of what I have it might could help you help me if at all. Thank you so much.
@@sherrylantrip9328 you might check your local thrift shops, yard sales, etc for one's that the light doesn't work on any more.
Keyword searching for high voltage bug light transformer might be helpful as well.
@@sherrylantrip9328 How did you take it apart? I have to do the same thing, and I can't see any obvious way to take it apart and/or "unsnap" the cover from the body. Please help!!
Great idea converting to a regular bulb. I've been trying to get my old vintage Flintrol 25 watt, 3/4 acre zapper light working again. Bought a new replacement CFM for it. Had to modify the bottom screen to let the new bulb hang out a little since I couldn't find a 25w bulb 7" like my original. Plugged in and the new bulb looks like it wants to light, but only slightly glows, and isn't a black light like I ordered. It's only a slight orange glow. Tried replacing starter just in case, but the new one, the same FL-25 still doesn't fully light the bulb? Can you make any suggestions on what else might be wrong? Wanna kill some skeeters some kind of bad! Stumped...
The ballast transformer may not be powerful enough to drive a higher wattage bulb. If you don't mind the extra light, you might try finding a white bulb that fits and is the correct wattage
@@JasonSimpson1966 Hi Jason. Thank you for such a quick reply. Actually the bulb I ordered was supposed to be the correct wattage, it's 25w just like the original. It's just an inch and a half longer.
Harold Leistikow
Jason,
I have a Flotron 80D 1-1/2 acre Bug zapper. The electrocution grill and one of the lights have the transformers tied together. There are two black wires coming out of one of those transformers and two red coming out of the other. I don't know how to tie the electrocution grill transformer into the one twenty lines for the UV light. Do you have any suggestions?
The wires going to the grid are the high voltage side. The other 2 wires are the 120v side. One goes to hot and one to neutral on your household plug in. If you don't have either side of the transformer connected right now, you are going to have to test the resistance on both sides of the transformer. On a step up transformer, the secondary (output side) should have a higher resistance than the primary (input 120v).
The socket for the CFL bulb just goes across the 120 lines. You should set the hot line for the center button on the base of the socket and the neutral on the threads.
Thank You! I have the same unit and this is EXACTLY what I was looking to do!
I did the exact thing thanks to your video. They don't make the size of the light tube for it anymore. Most of the T8 tube are a smaller base now.
Glad you found it useful. The more we share the more we learn.
My question is shouldn't the brass screw be wired to the hot wire? I heard in the video to connect to silver screw... am I wrong? Thanks.
Traditionally, yes, but with everything made in China these days, always double check things. the hot (black) lead should go to the center post of the light socket, and the neutral to the screw fixture.
@@JasonSimpson1966 Great point and thank you for getting back to me. Just curious, have you tired using an LED bulb?
@@RRMIAMI not yet, but I have it in the plans. I ordered some UV LED light tape I am going to wrap around a piece of PVC pipe and try substituting that, if it's in the correct spectrum, it should work.
@@JasonSimpson1966 I thought about that as well or just using a led bulb but I do not think the led bulb will have sufficient light to attract bugs but I could be wrong. Thanks again and I will be doing my mod soon.
My zapper won't start. I fuse bulb seems like busted ( dark in color)...How do I take it out from the housing its connected from?? help please
The starter is one of the major failings in these devices. that was why I made this video on converting them to use a standard light bulb socket and using a CFL bulb. The starter bulbs in these lamps vary from one model to the next, so the method of removing just the starter and replacing it varies.If you just want to replace the starter, I would suggest removing the connector for the starter and replacing it with a wire nut, then you can wire in whatever starter is appropriate for the wattage bulb your lamp happens to be.
I have old huge charmglow would love get it refurbished.
You wouldn't happen to have a transformer for a Sears Bugwacker or equivalent Flowtron 1 acre build you'd be willing to part with?
It's a 120V .8A to 5500V 9MA transformer.
I accidentally drilled into the transformer winding thinking the twist drill wouldn't catch and will be a while before I get to re-winding the transformer.
I found a porcelain small diameter base socket and was mounting. Then... ew... next time disassemble when I have sadist ELINT hackathon going on babbling away into everything including thin air in my perimeter.
Thanks in advance for your time and great video. Thorough detail.
jafinch78 Unfortunately, no, I don't have any spare transformers. However, you might consider using a transformer from a junk microwave oven. Those are typically easy to pick up, people throw them in the garbage all the time, often in still working condition.
Jason Simpson: Yeah... they're larger in size though could run off a wire and locate the transformer elsewhere. Kind of interesting studying the gap sizing for the transformer voltage and current and custom making a zapper also. I'll have to do a "microwave" or "bug zapper" "site:craiglist.org" search.
jafinch78 the smaller "dorm room" microwaves have a smaller transformer, and those are the ones I usually see in the trash. I've got a couple of them that I am planning on building a spot welder out of, though I haven't gotten around to it yet. Been focused on trying to get my 3D printer working reliably.
Jason Simpson: Thanks for the insight. I'll see what I can find when I'm out Goodwill Shopping or out. Not sure if you have wherever you're from; I just last week found in MN (Minneapolis and St. Paul) and I've read online they have others... all electronics are 29 cents at their "Goodwill Outlet Stores" unless marked in the cabinet otherwise. Went up to pick up a Tektronix 475A I got for $25 at Shopgoodwill.com. Unfortunately, where I live... there aren't as many into electronics like back in the Heathkit Zenith days (I'm working down in Coloma, MI). Thanks again man!
jafinch78 here in Montana we have Goodwill, but not outlet stores. 29¢ is as good as a trash pick, though, and well worth the scrap value. Good luck with your project.
Great engineering tips. Thanks again.
Sweet ty, I have an older model, and this worked like a charm.
Glad you found it useful. I always prefer repurpose/repair rather than disposal, although sometimes disposal is the only viable option (with recycling as part of the disposal process).
Jason Simpson I so agree.
Great vid. Great idea!
Brilliant!!! I'm going to covert mine.
I have converted mine and it works GREAT!
Just did my big lite this way ,GREAT IDEA
Excellent Idea. Worked great. 👍
Your video would have been a lot better if you had your camera positioned for a close up shot. You talk about cutting wires and etc., but I have no idea what you were doing. The camera was sitting on a bench in your dimly lit work shop, too far away to observe properly. Maybe you can make another video, well lit and up close.
I appreciate all feedback, but I would just like to make a couple of minor points.
1) I am not a professional RUclips content creator. I don't have multi-camera setups or elaborate video-editing software. Additionally, this was one of the first videos i ever filmed for sharing on RUclips, and my video experience was (and still is) is minimal.
2) The shop actually is well lit. Unfortunately, the light behind me swamped out the camera (seee previous comment on video experience).
3) The wiring inside these devices is not complicated. If you cannot understand the necessary steps to disconnect one light fixture and connect another one, then you should not be attempting this project. High voltage can kill, and should not be worked on by inexperienced persons.
4) I would have to have another of these lights to fix to re-shoot the video. As the person I salvaged this light from has had me perform the conversion on all four of his other lights already, I would have to find one in someone's trash to re-record the conversion, and they really are not that common around here.
Having said that, I am learning and will keep your suggestions on recording videos in mind in the future.
Great idea ,thanks
You should scream and yell at the comments of the stinger bug zapper and scream at the inside of the stinger bug zapper
I liked your outfit your wearing I hope your wearing that outfit every single day
Great Hack thanks for the inspiration.
Couldn’t see anything
Is I've stated previously, I'm not a professional RUclipsr, I don't have a lot of expensive camera gear or lighting setups.
If you don't already have enough skill or knowledge to understand what I presented, you likely shouldn't be messing around with high voltages and should seek the assistance of someone more qualified.
You Clever Rascal You
you are soooo lucky. i tried this before seeing this video... however, my bug zapper (flowtron pm1500 bugfighter, with the older style kill grid chicken wire style, very nice kill grid... newer pm1500's had the newer kill grid) anyway, there was no seprate ballest transformer, so when i removed the light and starter, it only lasted a day. i guess i over powered it, didnt kill but 40 flys maybe... smelt like burnt transformer.... nasty smelling, i had to throw it away, i should have took pictures for the serial number... i still have the bug zapper, only threw away the smelly transformer...
I stick it in the wrong hole all the time