Awesome job on the linkage set up , Jed ! Glad to see you using that lathe for all of your bushings , bolt heads , & tube cutting needs ! That should work way better than the stock rods . Definitely allows for an easier adjustment of anything if you need it . You could easily make bushings for the 5/16" bolts too , going through the 3/8" Heim joint eyes . Use a shoulder bolt for where they go through , cut off the extra outside the lock nut . Nice job , brother !
Watching my dad and uncles working on my dad javelin linkage for his transmission when I was a kid just brought back some memories watching this vid, my dad would always be under the car and I would crawl under there with him just to watch, he eventually end up taking it to the shop and remember it being up on the lift with them two discussing it, great memories, hope ur transmission works out for ya🤘
Probably never use what I learned here but still cool to watch. Very similar to the little tricks my friends use to sure up shifts in the dirt cars here. Thanks for sharing. Take care. Look forward to seeing that old Charger going again.
Very well done Jed👌! Very professional looking and when that goes back into Jezebel it should shift smooth as butter. Couple that with that hydraulic clutch and you will be doing some awesome power shifts with no fear of a muffed shift.
😎Thanks for sharing this. It's been around for at least 60 yrs but must be a well kept secret.😳 My girlfriend's Dad was an aircraft mechanic and this was just a common thing. 👍👍😎😎
Man that’s awesome fix for the slop that Mopar shifter suffer from, I had 70 Plymouth Road Runner that I loved but the shifter had issues with Hard shifts it would bind, man I wish you guys were around 20 years ago
Thanks Jed! I was wondering how I was going to pull off using my Ram Rod in the Valiant. Was really intimidated at the thought of doing it, but now, not so much!
Great video. I have been thinking about doing this. There is another video that shows you how to use the heim joints but not mopar specific. This really helped, especially with the swapping of the shifter offsets. I never knew you couldn't simply drill them out as well. That save some headache for sure.
How about using a die grinder to open those 5/16 " holes to 3/8". Race car supply places sell aluminum tap tubeing for making linkages. It is pre drilled for 3/8" taps - you need to cut to length and tap 1 end left & one end right threads.
The factory Chrysler brackets are made of a hardened steel, and the holes need to be precisely drilled. Trust me, using 5/16 hardware is as big as you really want to fit
The factory Mopar Hurst-made shifter rods are thicker than the aftermarket Hurst rods and the Mr. Gasket shifter rods are thicker than the Hurst aftermarket rods, but still not as thick as the Hurst-made factory installed shifter rods. That was interesting that Hurst made thicker rods for the factory Hurst shifters. That may not have been for all years. The rods on the E-body shifter are longer than others.
Carriage bolts would work perfectly for this they have a rounded head on them. Since you have that lay ( I no wrong spelling ) you should buy solid rod and drill and thread them your self but you may not have the stuff to do it yet but one day you may have them then you can make and sell these in a kit . but stay safe and keep the video's coming
I am replacing the automatic transmission with a 4 speed manual. It will go into my 46 Dodge car. The stock shifter worked good when it was in my van. Where can I get a hydraulic T.O.bearing and master cylinder?
Do you have any issues with your shifter handle hitting the dash or long shifts? I noticed you mechanism appears to have the shorter fingers unlike the 70 B mechanism that is designed for pistol grips which as the longer fingers. I'm thinking about putting one in my 69 charger, but I'm worried that I'll hit dash with the regular A/B competition plus mechanism.
No one, and I mean NO ONE touches my lathe, and there is actually a safety feature in my lathe that prevents that. Since the start up capacitor is bad in my electric motor, I have spin the chuck by hand to help it get started. So yeah, never going to be an issue, if my lathe didn't have this fault that I use as a safety feature, I definitely wouldn't do that but I always check my equipment before I operate it as well
@@ScottsSpeedShop that’s all well and good but accidents can and do happen. It’s best practice to not leave the key in the chuck. My late father would have kicked my arse if he saw me leave a key in a chuck on the lathe or drill press.. He was a fitter and Turner by trade so I guess he saw many accidents and near misses in the workshop. These days most drill press keys have a pin in them to prevent the ability to leave it in the chuck. BTW if you don’t have one, get yourself a live centre to support the end of long parts when parting them off like that or machining them.
Awesome job on the linkage set up , Jed ! Glad to see you using that lathe for all of your bushings , bolt heads , & tube cutting needs ! That should work way better than the stock rods . Definitely allows for an easier adjustment of anything if you need it . You could easily make bushings for the 5/16" bolts too , going through the 3/8" Heim joint eyes . Use a shoulder bolt for where they go through , cut off the extra outside the lock nut . Nice job , brother !
The Heim joints are the bomb
Watching my dad and uncles working on my dad javelin linkage for his transmission when I was a kid just brought back some memories watching this vid, my dad would always be under the car and I would crawl under there with him just to watch, he eventually end up taking it to the shop and remember it being up on the lift with them two discussing it, great memories, hope ur transmission works out for ya🤘
I would think about using round head cap screws instead of regular bolts on the shifter end.
If I didn't hate all things Allen keyed, that would have been an option, I have always found ways of stripping them out
Awesome 👍🏽 It's good your brother is better now 👍🏻🙏
Probably never use what I learned here but still cool to watch. Very similar to the little tricks my friends use to sure up shifts in the dirt cars here. Thanks for sharing. Take care. Look forward to seeing that old Charger going again.
Happy to see you are hard at it as usually and the progress of yourself getting the stuff finished is got to be a awesome feeling. Great day.
You might want to put bushings in those 3/8 heims when using 5/16 bolts or your probably going to have shift issues eventually.
Good to hear Michael is doing well.
Awsome job man ! shes almost finished 😎🏁
Very well done Jed👌! Very professional looking and when that goes back into Jezebel it should shift smooth as butter. Couple that with that hydraulic clutch and you will be doing some awesome power shifts with no fear of a muffed shift.
I’m switching to non OD in my truck .I believe I may have to do this for my 3/4 rod for clearance . Set up looks good n’ stout ! 👍🏻
😎Thanks for sharing this.
It's been around for at least 60 yrs but must be a well kept secret.😳
My girlfriend's Dad was an aircraft mechanic and this was just a common thing. 👍👍😎😎
Man that’s awesome fix for the slop that Mopar shifter suffer from, I had 70 Plymouth Road Runner that I loved but the shifter had issues with
Hard shifts it would bind, man I wish you guys were around 20 years ago
The heim rod end trick has been around at least 60 years that I know of.
A friend of mine has this setup in his valiant 👌🏻
Shifts FAST!!
Nice job Jed. Thanks for sharing.
Cool video Jed I dig that Cool rods too shift old Jess with can't wait till u get it back together again brother
Glad your brother is doing ok
Good job sciencing out all the variables. 😀
Thanks Jed! I was wondering how I was going to pull off using my Ram Rod in the Valiant. Was really intimidated at the thought of doing it, but now, not so much!
Yeah doing this really isn't all that bad
Good idea Jed!! Looks pretty damn easy. Easier than bending all my linkage on my T10 when I was 16. Lol
Looks like your 4 speed will be very slick and smooth as well as strong , good job.
Great video. I have been thinking about doing this. There is another video that shows you how to use the heim joints but not mopar specific. This really helped, especially with the swapping of the shifter offsets. I never knew you couldn't simply drill them out as well. That save some headache for sure.
Glad to hear that man, I have heard from friends that, they were able to re-drill theirs, but even my hardest bits wouldn't touch the ones I had
Good runnings, Cousin.....
Looks great.
Cool can't wait to see the old girl back on the street. 👀👍
How about using a die grinder to open those 5/16 " holes to 3/8". Race car supply places sell aluminum tap tubeing for making linkages. It is pre drilled for 3/8" taps - you need to cut to length and tap 1 end left & one end right threads.
The factory Chrysler brackets are made of a hardened steel, and the holes need to be precisely drilled. Trust me, using 5/16 hardware is as big as you really want to fit
Man... that garage is a mess! That’s usually where the best stuff gets done. 😀👍
The factory Mopar Hurst-made shifter rods are thicker than the aftermarket Hurst rods and the Mr. Gasket shifter rods are thicker than the Hurst aftermarket rods, but still not as thick as the Hurst-made factory installed shifter rods. That was interesting that Hurst made thicker rods for the factory Hurst shifters. That may not have been for all years. The rods on the E-body shifter are longer than others.
Nice upgrade Jed.
That is a freakn great idea!!! Thank u sir!!!!
Glad you like it!
Nice upgrades.
Another great one dude.
Thanks again!
To drill or file the hole, heat the hole with a torch, let it cool, then drill. 😎
really nice work 👌
Looking good 👍👍🇨🇱
Just in time. I'm getting ready to do the same thing. Putting a 4 speed in a AMC pacer and a 440. I was wondering how to do the rods
Thx for the info Jed
Any time!
Carriage bolts would work perfectly for this they have a rounded head on them.
Since you have that lay ( I no wrong spelling ) you should buy solid rod and drill and thread them your self but you may not have the stuff to do it yet but one day you may have them then you can make and sell these in a kit .
but stay safe and keep the video's coming
Since the metal is too hard to drill, as is, how would you make the hole square for a carriage bolt ?
@@hotrodray6802 either heat it and pull it in or press it in or use dreminel tool to square it up
Awesome 👍🏽😀
Wow what a rig
I am replacing the automatic transmission with a 4 speed manual. It will go into my 46 Dodge car. The stock shifter worked good when it was in my van. Where can I get a hydraulic T.O.bearing and master cylinder?
I really like the American Powertrain hydramax setup
Do you have any issues with your shifter handle hitting the dash or long shifts? I noticed you mechanism appears to have the shorter fingers unlike the 70 B mechanism that is designed for pistol grips which as the longer fingers. I'm thinking about putting one in my 69 charger, but I'm worried that I'll hit dash with the regular A/B competition plus mechanism.
I had a 70 shifter with the longer arms, but I haven't really had any issues hitting the dash, it gets close but doesn't hit
@@ScottsSpeedShop cool thanks
You shouldn’t be leaving the Chuck key in the lathe. It will become a projectile if someone turns the lathe on without realising the key is in there.
No one, and I mean NO ONE touches my lathe, and there is actually a safety feature in my lathe that prevents that. Since the start up capacitor is bad in my electric motor, I have spin the chuck by hand to help it get started. So yeah, never going to be an issue, if my lathe didn't have this fault that I use as a safety feature, I definitely wouldn't do that but I always check my equipment before I operate it as well
@@ScottsSpeedShop that’s all well and good but accidents can and do happen. It’s best practice to not leave the key in the chuck. My late father would have kicked my arse if he saw me leave a key in a chuck on the lathe or drill press.. He was a fitter and Turner by trade so I guess he saw many accidents and near misses in the workshop. These days most drill press keys have a pin in them to prevent the ability to leave it in the chuck. BTW if you don’t have one, get yourself a live centre to support the end of long parts when parting them off like that or machining them.
DO YA WATCH............JUST MOPAR JOE?
I know Joe, but I very rarely get to watch anyone's else's shit
@Scotts Speed Shop come on over 😀
Wish i had the length measurements for the rods so i can make them . my car is overseas.😒
Trans is in the car so I can easily measure them, each set with be slightly different are definitely something that would have to be custom made
@@ScottsSpeedShop just realized i have the A body trans the rods are longer
Weld the holes in re tap hole 🕳️🕳️
👍💪
LOOKING FOR A PISTOL GRIP HANDLE 73 DUSTER
A883 in my 82 d100 slant 6 anyone have a working transmission for sale?
You have the lathe can you cut a sleeve to go over the bolt like a shoulder 🙄🙄
Yeah, that's easy, but I only have aluminum round stock at the moment
IS THERE ANY WAY TO ADD A GEAR TO AN 833?
I don't think so without doing a gear vendors unit
TUMS UP B4 I WATCH!
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