Super fast block foundation.
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- Опубликовано: 23 янв 2025
- A concrete block foundation can be a good option for building an addition. it is a cost effective way to do a crawl space foundation. One of the most important aspects of making a block foundation last is proper backfill and drainage. We backfilled this one with stone up against the wall and the soil behind that. The walls are parged with Comproco a fiberglass reinforced block bond. This adds strength and also water proofs the walls.
I appreciate the facts that you told that guy to reposition himself on the top of that truck and also told the truck driver to stay off the neighbor's yard.
Yes thanks for noticing that bud.
Awesome video!!. These guys' work looks super neat and professional, small crew and excellent results ....true professional 🔥💯👌🏽
Thank you so much.
Yeah right…. Absolutely ZERO safety protocols!!!
BIG BISCUIT IS THE MAN !!! YOU SHOULD BE PROUD OF HIS WORK ETHICS ! BRUTE STRENGTH💪
better be paying him 40 or 50 bucks an hour then.
Excelente work Bondo. This build method is very common in Brazil, fast and efficient! Congrats friend!
Thank you. I think it is a good system. 👊
Beautiful job, love the attention to the details 👍
thank you
Nice work Bondo. Always nice to see skilled workers show off their skills.
Lots of people worried about drainage. You actually reduced the runoff onto the neighbor’s yard by running the gutters into the drain system, that would have ran onto the neighbor’s before. I don’t get why people don’t see that.
Stay safe!
Thanks Rick at least you seen that. LOL
Agreed 👍. Being on the lake. And with great property pitch on both properties...It's a great opportunity to do drainage around the addition perimeter and all runoff can be taken to the lake .. Return the water from nature to nature in this case ... I would have added interior footer weeping lines and connect to outter drainage lines draining to the lake ..If it's crawl space... Didn't you have to install vapor barrier under concrete? Or vents in block walls
Why no waterproofing the wall??
Why no insulation
Why no mind ur busy
Recent subscriber, grew up north of Utica. Brought back memories seeing your guys working in early summer with their shirts off until they were red as lobsters. Moved south in 1988 and have lived in North Carolina mostly since (with an 8 year trek to the desert and then west coast before returning to NC.) Enjoy the videos.
thanks for watching and subscribing. glad you enjoy
Building additions and houses in the philly area for over 30 years...Next time you're setting up block for laying; have a few guys going from the block to each spot. Swing each block to the next guy...Saves your back...Laborers, ran well, save a lot of wear and tear...You guys are lucky...Here, we need 12 Inch Semi solid up to grade...Also, when parging in the outside, run mud on the footer with a pitch so you don't get wash out between the footer and the block...before you seal coat it... The block guys were good mechanics....
Good tips thank you. We did run a bevel on the bottom like you say with the parge coat. Just the width of a margin trowel.
How can it be that the home owner in this case when the existing house was built on a full basement (window) and visible above ground level. don't you then choose during the extension to (for almost no increased cost) dig a little deeper and let you build a 14 block high foundation wall so that you can get (double area) with 9' interior ceiling height in the basement level? Hard to understand that one misses that opportunity for only slightly more expensive (work and more concrete hollow blocks) for double area in the finished extension?
Agreed 👍. It would definitely improve the property values and increase usable square footage...Looks like it could have been a walkout addition.
Money. Money is the answer.
Of course it’d be better if it were deeper / walk out. But I’m guessing the owner didn’t have the money.
Could have been only “a few bucks more” but for most people a budget exists for a reason …. Not to be exceeded
@@MrRoberoni117or the owner had no idea it was smarter or even practical to do it that way and the contractor never gave them that possibility. I had this happen 10 years back and when people asked why I didn’t just do “X” and I asked my contractor why we didn’t do that and he told me “because you never asked”. 🙄
The existing is not a full basement. You can see at 4:08 they are pouring the extension footing at the exact same height as the existing footing.
all that work and time and drainage for what? A crawl space. Silly. Dig a few feet deeper and a full basement with walkout to the lake. Wow. Big gain in property value. Feels like paying a massage therapist for a hand job when a few dollars more gets you full body. 😂
Like seeing the lake when you have jobs there. Grew up near the lake in Northern Niagara County, been in KS since 90s.
It is nice working on the lake. Tight space usually though.
Not a cement/concrete guy but shouldn't you fill all the cores or just the ones with rebar?
You don’t have to, no.
You're videos are always interesting! You guys make a great crew. Nobody is lazy, all great workers! When you're done go jump in the lake to cool off.
Thanks Scott I appreciate that a lot. 😊
... ??? ....YOU ARE videos are always ... what kind of gibberish is this ? do you know English ?
Nice work - surprised the basement wasn’t deeper - hard to tell head height. Nice drainage destination in the back yard. I would have suggested a property line retaining wall for future!
I think they mentioned that it's a crawl space, not a full basement. Probably just need enough headroom for plumbing, electrical, and HVAC runs to the new addition.
@@PongoXBongo makes sense, thx!
No need. Plenty of pitch on both properties going towards the lake. The neighbor could always do french drain lines between properties going towards the lake
If they are using 12" nominal CMU then the depth is 6 foot before the floor, so about 5' 7" finished.
@@RH-cv1rgI’m sure there’s a reason, but personally I’d think another foot would make it much easier to work in - especially for anyone over that height.
Great Job. Thank you for sharing. 🙌
thank you
Nice view, along the sea...great job
Thanks. This is Oneida Lake in New York State.
Where are the crawlspace vents.?
They spray foamed the inside walls and it was all conditioned space under there.
Is tar no longer used on exterior foundation underground?
The parge coat we use now does not need tar coating. The old mortar parge did.
Nice work good clean job all round 👍 👍
thanks Tim
Great job, nice video. Knowing what not to do makes for excellence. Any need for a floor drain in that crawl space?
You say there's rebar holding the wall to the footing but earlier in the video you show yourself pouring that footing and there was no vertical rebar protruding from it.
No worries about vacuum thrust for rebar in fondation ? And also there is no vertical rebar in the fondation ??
What good is drilling rebar into the foundation or placing the rebar in the cells after the wall is poured? All you had to do was layout the center line of the wall and measure the cell locations and L shaped rebar. The vertical bonds are no good with no connection to rebar in footing. Plus, backfilling on freshly laid block wall?
This is code compliant we do not need hook downs in our footings in this part of the country. We backfilled with stone against the wall. basically no pressure on the wall. also only a short wall. a full basement we would wait for the wood cap to be framed and wall to cur longer.
Yup!!!
Looks good as always ya got a good crew they r hard working guys
thanks Gary
A lot of work and each person's talent is needed to do his part with perfection.
how do you deal with when setting up a wall, with in the total length you only need to make up less than 1/2 a block ,say 1-2", you need to make up vs cut a piece of block. to complete a course , Do you make the motar on the ends of the blocks a bit thicker to make up the couple inch amount over the course
You can put a small piece in or use an 18" block in place of a 16" one
@@bondobuilt386 thx
you don't put tar or water barrier on the outside of block wall? different climate zone.
This Parge coat does not need tar. It is water resistant. Plain mortar would require tar.
here in Seattle everythngs gotta wear rubber boots
@@tandemcompound2 gotcha 👍👍
Even concrete foundations have waterproofing applied prior to back fill
Great job !!!
Thanks
That was fast and neat. Came out great
thanks
Nice work!!
thanks
Nice job!😎👌👍
How is it you are lucky enough to get so many Lake front jobs? LOL Beautiful views, but usually very tight circumstances, and property lines fiercely protected. They literally fight over inches, instead of feet. Very nice work, especially in such a tight job site. I can see a neighborhood war coming about water runoff, after the first good rain, lol 🤦♂️😳😂😉
Thanks The neighbors were cool and we talked about the water and there is a nice ditch between the houses that drains to the lake. Also we made sure to have drains to catch the gutters.
@@bondobuilt386 I figured you would have all your ducks in a row, your attention to detail is obvious, it sounds like you were a bit lucky on this one, I’ve done more than a few lakefront jobs, and neighbors can be very trying, just glad at this point to be an armchair quarterback, my mason days are far behind me now. 👍👌😉
Good job Bud.
thanks uncle Jim.
Another good job Bondo
Thanks
I'm just across the Lake O from here. Couple of things I noticed are different.
Have you got 4 foot frost cover from finished grade to underside of footings? You parged, but no damp proofing (tar)? Was that an oversight? I've noticed in several videos done around north eastern US that you pin your block to the footings and fill cores with concrete. I've even seen bloc-loc (wire reinforcement) every three courses. The wall is restrained at the bottom by the slab and at the top with the floor structure. Is this a code thing for you?
He also doesn’t have any vertical rebar in the block so technically the only thing holding the block wall to the footing is the mortar that the block was set in😮
Several years ago I started adding a key way of 1”x10”, it’s nothing fancy but I feel like it adds a layer of strength and gives the bevel of parging a better chance of success, just my 2 cents, take from it what you will, cheers!
Curious, what are doing as a floor for this project? Looking at the “same type” of build but would like to pour a concrete floor. Better off backfill completely? Thanks
They are doing 2x10 floor joist and then plywood then hardwood floors.
Excellent job guys. Damn!
Very beautiful work… But I don’t see waterproofing… That’s how you guys doing in NY?
✨👍. Great job. Do you do all of NYS? I'm in Upstate NY near Buffalo... Getting ready to sell ... Moving South...But I would love to refer you to anyone looking to buy my house...Thanks for the simple explanation of what you're doing... Would be great to have a picture of finished addition ✨🤗
I'm in rochester
What a beautiful work!
Need to fill all the blocks with concrete, no?
Great job
Thanks Brian.
Beautiful work team. If yall were in SC I'd hire ya in a heart beat.
Dam, nice job. How much this cost to do??
How much was the concrete for the footing?
It would be great if you could have a few pictures of the jobs when the job is Totally finished!,,!!!!!😢😊
Turned out nice 👍
thanks
What is this build supposed to be?
how much does one cubic meter of concrete cost?
We buy it by the cubic yard. 3'X3'X3' and it cost close to $200 with all the fees
I always used B-bond to parg the block because it added strength and is more water proof the just mortar.
Looks like necessary grading needed in the corner you created by adding the foundation
What is that level laser called?
What was the total cost to build this?
do you guys not have to do any waterproofing in your area?
The parge coat is a water proofer. That is all that is required
@@bondobuilt386 i am a mason in east Tennessee i like seeing how different things are built from state to state
Awesome 😀@@stevequesenberry5848
Because the grade of that property is now higher and there's no drainage ditch on the property line... won't rain runoff flood the neighbors property?
what lake is this? You mentioned upstate NY but I couldn't understand you when you pronounced the name of the lake.
Oneida Lake.
do you fill the entire wall with concrete?
Great show. What I don't get is, the two big boys are working so hard, how the hell are they not slim? They should be losing 20 lbs per day doing this the way they move.
Because of their wife’s 😂
What is that beeping tool you're using?
LOL it is the kid Steer backing up.
Lol...I meant the tool you had in your hand. I researched and found out it's a laser level. I've always wanted one but didnt know what it was called or the brand name(?)
You guys did an absolute amazing and beautiful job with that wall! WOW! Impressive!!
@@tiffanyfisher1805 Well thank you Tiffany 😀
Where was the plasta that was one the walls earlier ...😮😮...did you removed if before you cast the floor??
how far down do you have to go for frost? you must be in the states?
Yes New York State and we have a 48" frost line
@@bondobuilt386 what's the frost line like in Canada?
I do not know as we do not build in Canada but I am sure it varies to the area. further north you go it will be deeper. @@redsresearch
@@bondobuilt386 pretty sure its 8 feet
Beautiful work.
Thanks
Looks good. Is that in Bridgeport by chance?
Just past Bridgeport in Lakeport.
Those ties to existing building look concerning 15mins into video.. Block structure is on a different foundation to the house foundation so if there is movement over the years = cracking. Movement joint ties do you have them in the States ?
Why do you pour a floor for a crawl space?
Y'all make it look too easy - I'm over here on my couch thinking that I can do this too!
Came out nice!!
thanks Robbie
Why not just put the foam board on the outside of the block walls?
You could do that ...I would have put dimple board up after rolling liquid rubber on the walls ...I'm wondering why vapor barrier wasn't put down before slab was poured since it's a crawl space
Turned out nice guys!
Thanks Frank
hi boss., is it possible to apply for a job in your construction?.
thank you
Looks great!
thanks John
Why is it you guys do alot of block walls instead of forms ?
No rebar from footer to foundation?
yes we drilled them and put them into footer and core filled every 4 feet.
@@bondobuilt386 Vertical rebar should have been linked with 90 degrees angle rebar to the fondation rebar
WHY ALWAYS BLOCK INSTEAD OF CONCRETE?
I do not own forms and they are an expensive investment for all the different sizes you would need.
Why is the rebar on the dirt needs gravel also
Nice work.
I would’ve gotten a Stone Slinger truck to pour the clear stone. Quick and a back saver.
You run a tight ship, great job!
what were the 2 concrete pads for - just curious.
I was wondering the same thing...
My guess ~ they're used as a foundation to build up structural support for the center of the addition. Without them...there wouldn't be any support in the center.
Kinda' like a seemingly "random" wall/pillar in the middle of some homes. They're there to build up off of or to distribute some of the weight from up top.
Just a guess, though. I could be completely off. Lol.
It looks like they’re pads for posts to hold a beam across the foundation, upon which will lay 10’ rafters in each direction front and back.
Size and how many blocks for the walls. Thanks
Rectangle looks like 60 blocks all around x 6 high so 360 blocks approx.. Or 4 meters wide by 8 meters long by 1.2 meters high... Or 13 feet wide 26 feet long 3 feet high
@@davidrothchilds2066 thank u, I'm not the smartest haha
Oh my God. Please don't ever let anyone do that again. The guy can be on the ground with a piece of PVC pipe and a slight notch cut in it to lift the wire. A board could be used as well but the PVC pipe would be better. inch and a half id or od. In this neck of the woods those bare wires would be before the transformer and in the low thousands of volts and he came close to dying that day. He didn't feel some hair standing up as it was? the truck wasn't grounding, not enough water for that, maybe .Good luck in the future and thanks for the video.
What part of Oneida Lake is this on, Northside?
Good quality work! I know you use ICFs often, how come you used blocks this time? Cost? What’s the approximate cost difference on this job if you would have used ICFs?
Yes it cost about 40 to 50 percent less to do blocks.
Thank you for the excellent video! Could you share the manufacturer of that dark foam insulation?
Have you ever had ants burrow through the foam board? A number of years ago I left a scrap piece of 2" Dupont "blue board" polystyrene on the ground (sandy soil) for several months and when I turned it over I found that the ants had tunneled their way all through it. Cheers!
Another nice job. The Governor
Thanks
is it my pc or why 480p?
@@LudusArtifex it was a mistake when I uploaded it.
@ oh that’s sad to hear. But thanks for the interesting video and greetings from Germany
Awesome job
Now thats a nice pool!
LOL
You're burning the biscuit
He is doing it I know.
Nice view
@@beingabdaal950 yes it was 😊
@@bondobuilt386 *_ Geez, why are so many Americans SO FAT.... Holy Sh!t? _*
Most of the time when I look that red it's not actually sunburn I turn red when I'm hot we use lots of sunblock through the summer.
Big biscuit
What a beautiful job
We have a couple 10cu ft brentwoods. Amazing.
The Brentwoods are awesome
In case you are wondering, there is no high voltage electricity in the bottom wires, generally phone and cable.
But I still wouldn't touch it.
Next time you need to put stone inside a wall, just get it put on a mixer and shoot it out in there. You only need a little water just to get the stones wet, works really good.
Ya I know you can do it that way but hard to get a concrete truck to deliver the stone and twice the cost. We had to get it done fast and it only took us about 1-1/2 hours to do all that stone.
Using a slinger truck ...No big deal. That's what track hoe was for
121👍's up B B thank you for sharing
Thanks Scott
you guys do nice work but why put roof water down on your footer gutter debris will eventually cause a problem just run another run of solid pipe above
We usually run 2 pipes but that is how they engineered it.
You do damn nice work Bondo. Have a spotted cow on me!
He needs to come to WI for that
Thanks Joe.
Why pour a floor?
The customer wanted to store some stuff down there.
Do they call footings footers up there? I mean, I know a footer is a part of a document and a footing is a part of a foundation, but maybe it’s different north of the Mason-Dixon Line.
Footings are structural supports that are used in addition to a foundation. They help transfer the load's weight from the foundation into the soil. Footers are typically in direct contact with the ground, while the foundation is in contact with the footing.
Why not add a few feet and have a bend-over or stand space instead of a crawl space?