I’m self-taught, I’d have just loved to have had your videos, would have made my life easier by far. It’s very cool to finally see how others work especially someone who loves their work like you. 👍😀👍
You’re a very good teacher. Appreciate all of your videos. Would you also show an ogee offset without the use of a calculator? This is just a suggestion. Some may not have or want to use a calculator. As you know - Draw a slant line from cheek center points top and bottom. Measure the work line distance top to bottom. From the bottom measure straight up 1/4 of that distance. Mark where that distance intersects with the slant line. Lay the outer corner of a square on that point on the slant line. Draw a line down to the bottom work line. That will be the point and distance for setting all 4 of the arcs. Thanks for all your work to promote Sheetmetal layout.
Thanks for your feedback James, always enjoy hearing other SM guys. I did add a quick photo of finding the wrapper L in this video, but very quick. I had previously covered it in another layout video at 7:58 min. ruclips.net/video/-QxpsWwXTko/видео.html
Awesome vidoe!! I've always wanted to learn how to make an offset like that. Thank you so much for all the informative videos. Do you have a video making a Hess fitting?
I’m glad you liked the video, as far as the HESS Fitting goes, I wasn’t planning but I will keep it in mind. I only made a them a few times mostly for modular home heating systems.
Great video sir as always. Do you recommend any reference materials/books that have some of the most commonly used equations in the shop? I usually pee-wee tape my wrappers, but having those equations handy would be nice.
Hello Christopher, i always tell the students that the pee wee tape is the quickest and most accurate, formulas only work if everything is almost perfect including the person performing the calculation. One of many textbooks is the following. Sheet Metal Workers Pocket Manual Paperback - by Fred Schumacher (Author), Calude Zinngrabe (Author). Another is The Richard Budzik books. I hope this helps and if I think of another good one I’ll let you know.
Hi Duane, Great job on all your videos here. Just a little nitpicking question here. I am curious as to why in layout you used 1/4" for your add on to the cheek width dimension (for the tongue part of the lock joint) and then when rolling that same edge you called out 3/16" as the machine setting. So doesn't that make it 1/8" wider than the 6" spec width? Thanks, Bob R.
Good observation. You are 100% right that the edger allowance is only 3/16. There are a couple of reasons for the 1/4, one is that it gives me 1/16 edge to start my snips or uni shears and another reason is that it simply makes the math a bit easier. Again, awesome observation Bob!
I wonder how you learned all of this, and how long it took you to make a fitting by hand the first time. All I have to do is figure out what fitting I need, how much offset, which way it offsets, and that's it the computer does the work for the shop person. Its definitely interesting to see all that goes into building a fitting by hand, a lot of head scratching for sure.
Hello Misael, I started in 1983. I got my Sheet Metal Journeyman’s license in 88. The cutting tables in my area only started getting popular in late 90s. The eye opener for me,,,with this channel is,,,that I here from many people in other countries that don’t have plasma tables. In order to layout fittings from scratch,,,The trick is to learn how to follow step by step instructions from favorite textbooks :)
The only video that might come close to what your looking for is Fabricating a field mitered offset? ruclips.net/video/pMO96fWniYs/видео.htmlsi=zSQo6iq7NC78-NdA
@@sheetmetalwork but in one piece? With keep the dims. Of your duct the same throughout. I hand scribe everything, but I want to be able to cut a finished length piece, to scribe out, rather than shear a side out of a sheet. the angles being at different positions is what’s throwing me. I end up choking the dimensions down on my throat.
@@michaeljowers4641 I think your looking for something similar to offsetting a gutter downspout? Which is the removal of a piece of PIE shaped piece in two locations.
Yeah, Guys at my location like to stay away from Radius offsets, and as you know it saves on Metal to start with a cut piece. I use the Owl method while field fabricating. But it’s just the throat. Still working on it. I don’t mean to Bombard you with questions, but while you are doing your arcs, couldn’t you just include your .25s at the beginning? Then after cutting out your cheek, just set your scribe to a .25” and scribe it, right? Not trying to be rude, just deceasing different methods available. Thanks! Btw my 40 Most Frequently used Fittings book comes in today!
Sorry, but thanks for being honest, that’s the first time I hear that. I’m using my iPhone for everything, I’m sure there’s definitely better equipment out there. Again sorry.
I’m self-taught, I’d have just loved to have had your videos, would have made my life easier by far. It’s very cool to finally see how others work especially someone who loves their work like you. 👍😀👍
No matter how far apart we all are, there are lots of similarities. Thanks for commenting 👍😀🇨🇦
We need more people like you
Siempre es un gusto ver sus vídeos
muchas gracias JL por tu comentario es muy apreciado
You’re a very good teacher. Appreciate all of your videos. Would you also show an ogee offset without the use of a calculator? This is just a suggestion. Some may not have or want to use a calculator. As you know - Draw a slant line from cheek center points top and bottom. Measure the work line distance top to bottom. From the bottom measure straight up 1/4 of that distance. Mark where that distance intersects with the slant line. Lay the outer corner of a square on that point on the slant line. Draw a line down to the bottom work line. That will be the point and distance for setting all 4 of the arcs. Thanks for all your work to promote Sheetmetal layout.
Thanks for your feedback James, always enjoy hearing other SM guys. I did add a quick photo of finding the wrapper L in this video, but very quick. I had previously covered it in another layout video at 7:58 min. ruclips.net/video/-QxpsWwXTko/видео.html
Awesome vidoe!! I've always wanted to learn how to make an offset like that. Thank you so much for all the informative videos. Do you have a video making a Hess fitting?
I’m glad you liked the video, as far as the HESS Fitting goes, I wasn’t planning but I will keep it in mind. I only made a them a few times mostly for modular home heating systems.
Hey man I'm writing from Barbados. I like your videos keep it up bro. Very informative
Thank you Sonnie. 🇨🇦😀
Saludos desde México, amigo, cómo ha estado?
Actually making one of these tomorrow. Square duct is gravy, this'll be the third ogee I've had to make so far.
I hope all goes well with the offset, sounds like it will. Thanks Justin for taking the time to add your comment.
Great video sir as always. Do you recommend any reference materials/books that have some of the most commonly used equations in the shop? I usually pee-wee tape my wrappers, but having those equations handy would be nice.
Hello Christopher, i always tell the students that the pee wee tape is the quickest and most accurate, formulas only work if everything is almost perfect including the person performing the calculation. One of many textbooks is the following. Sheet Metal Workers Pocket Manual Paperback - by Fred Schumacher (Author), Calude Zinngrabe (Author). Another is The Richard Budzik books. I hope this helps and if I think of another good one I’ll let you know.
Hi Duane, Great job on all your videos here. Just a little nitpicking question here.
I am curious as to why in layout you used 1/4" for your add on to the cheek width dimension (for the tongue part of the lock joint) and then when rolling that same edge you called out 3/16" as the machine setting. So doesn't that make it 1/8" wider than the 6" spec width? Thanks, Bob R.
Good observation. You are 100% right that the edger allowance is only 3/16. There are a couple of reasons for the 1/4, one is that it gives me 1/16 edge to start my snips or uni shears and another reason is that it simply makes the math a bit easier. Again, awesome observation Bob!
I wonder how you learned all of this, and how long it took you to make a fitting by hand the first time.
All I have to do is figure out what fitting I need, how much offset, which way it offsets, and that's it the computer does the work for the shop person. Its definitely interesting to see all that goes into building a fitting by hand, a lot of head scratching for sure.
Hello Misael, I started in 1983. I got my Sheet Metal Journeyman’s license in 88. The cutting tables in my area only started getting popular in late 90s. The eye opener for me,,,with this channel is,,,that I here from many people in other countries that don’t have plasma tables. In order to layout fittings from scratch,,,The trick is to learn how to follow step by step instructions from favorite textbooks :)
@@sheetmetalwork great teacher
Upload new more video
Hey, would it be possible to go over an Offset with square sides (non Radius sides)?
The only video that might come close to what your looking for is Fabricating a field mitered offset? ruclips.net/video/pMO96fWniYs/видео.htmlsi=zSQo6iq7NC78-NdA
@@sheetmetalwork but in one piece? With keep the dims. Of your duct the same throughout. I hand scribe everything, but I want to be able to cut a finished length piece, to scribe out, rather than shear a side out of a sheet. the angles being at different positions is what’s throwing me. I end up choking the dimensions down on my throat.
@@michaeljowers4641 I think your looking for something similar to offsetting a gutter downspout? Which is the removal of a piece of PIE shaped piece in two locations.
Yeah, Guys at my location like to stay away from Radius offsets, and as you know it saves on Metal to start with a cut piece. I use the Owl method while field fabricating. But it’s just the throat. Still working on it. I don’t mean to Bombard you with questions, but while you are doing your arcs, couldn’t you just include your .25s at the beginning? Then after cutting out your cheek, just set your scribe to a .25” and scribe it, right? Not trying to be rude, just deceasing different methods available. Thanks! Btw my 40 Most Frequently used Fittings book comes in today!
Nice bro sane my vlog about ducting
You need better audio
Sorry, but thanks for being honest, that’s the first time I hear that. I’m using my iPhone for everything, I’m sure there’s definitely better equipment out there. Again sorry.