Regarding the clicking sound: I found that it's the sun-glass holder in the front roof dome light area. When there are glasses in it they can rattle since it's hard surface on the inside. The sound is omnipresent and very hard to pinpoint, drove me nuts for awhile. If you hear this sound, check that first, remove the glasses and it'll vanish. I put a small block of spongy weather strip tape up there on the inside roof side of the case, to slightly compress the glasses when it's closed and the sound is totally gone.
@@jessehurley2791 I have a 2014 made in Japan. Been driving it since 2017. I only had 1 major issue - the touch pad control on the screen has faulted and started sending random inputs. This was covered under recall a while back, but at that point I already manually unplugged the touch layer. Beyond that it's just maintenance, and stuff typical to anyone driving in rough conditions my area, like a failed rear spring and a front control arm joint.
For anyone concerned with a rattling sound that seems to come from the dashboard/A pillar area, actually check the plate right under the passenger seat. Add some foam under then tighten the screw more. I was really surprised after months finding that terrible rattle didn't come from dashboard even though it seems it did
Don’t forget the rust on bose speakers in front doors. the 2013-15 models make ratle noise due to it. So turn up the volume and play base music when inspecting potential buy
I had this issue, the rust caused the cone in the speaker to tear causing rattling. Fortunately I was able to get it replaced under warranty but that Bose speaker costs 300$ alone.
Took mine out and repaired them with a decent adhesive. Cost me £4 including the replacement door panel clips, and just over 1 hours effort. Mazda quoted £650 for two speakers and labour
Have a 2016 hatchback and I hear no clicking or weird sounds. Thanks for the maintenance tips, will now check that I'm no missing any maintenance and will ask my mechanic to check for any signs of rust.
I have a 2014. The most annoying feature of this car are all the components are noisy. The panels rattle and click, as stated in this video and from suspension components can wear out prematurely. I feel like whatever plastics they used in the interior material have maybe hardening over time and making the poorly fitted panels have more room to make noise.
@stirange my 2014 will be 7 years old on June 20, I’m lucky I had a 6 year MAP on the vehicle as I can’t even remember how many parts needed to be replaced, and there are still strange sounds coming from the left, front end, which Mazda stated were normal since the car was basically new. I don’t drive that much, only 38,000 KM on the car now. It’s fine for what I use it for, happy to have the factory Apple CarPlay refit, but I had fewer problems with Honda products I owned prior to this car.
I have had my Mazda 3 hatchback (diesel 2.2 SportNav) for 6 years and 72,000 miles. It's a great car, very well built, with a few issues like road noise, a problem touch screen depending on manufacturing date, and (in the case of the diesel) a decoke needed after about 60,000. Any car of this age and mileage will have some problems, but I still enjoy driving mine enough not to want to replace it. I recently tried a BMW 4 series (2 litre) and despite all the "driver's car" hype, I found it less fun than the Mazda.
Service book records are useless, they don't prove that the services were done, only that the service book was filled out. I suspected that my vehicle wasn't being serviced properly and secretly marked everything that was supposed to be replaced before I took it to the dealer for a scheduled full service and after I picked up my vehicle I checked for the marks I made only to discover that the only thing done was oil filter and oil change. But the service records in the book were filled out as every thing done to the book. I fronted the dealer with the evidence and they promised to do the whole service again for me. I declined their offer to redo what was supposed to be done and told them that I will take my vehicle elsewhere in future. So don't rely on the service book.
I have a 2016 hatchback and it has been flawless other than excessive rear brake wear due to bad calipers. Even with the fix Mazda has designed their cars to need back brakes twice as often as the front brakes. I am on rear brake pad set #2 75k miles. I run the crap out of the car and no major issues. The base interior is a bit of the light weight side. Base model is probably the way to go. The more gadgets the more problems. I have a stick shift and love it. I does not need 6 gears though. That extra gear slows down, down shifts because you have too many gear choices. 6-3 is your best bet for passing but it might take two shifts to get there. 3rd gear is good for 100MPH so you probably won't need to shift till then when passing. The wife has a CX-5 of the same year and it has the automatic and it has been great even pulling a 4x8 cargo trailer. Mazda is right up there with Toyota and Honda and maybe better. No CVT rubber band transmission. These are problems not matter what the sales jerk tells you. I WON'T have a CVT and I am an engineer. They are not designed for 20yrs and 200k miles. The windshield being paper thin on the 3 is my biggest complaint. I am on windshield #2. It takes nothing to crack on. #2 is cracked and I am not replacing it till I can't see through it. It is a waste of money to keep replacing them.
Is it just the stock calipers or caliper design in general? I just bought a 2015 with 240k km (150k miles) for $2,900 as is yesterday and drove it home 400km one way with no problems. So far all I know is the rear brakes are toast so I'm replacing rotors/pads all around, but idk if I should just do both rear calipers while I'm there? Happy to hear it's flawless other than the minor stuff you mentioned! 👍
@@PeterrDoucette I think some corporate dumb ass thought that rear brakes should not last 100k miles so they fixed that problem. Wife's 2016 CX-5 same issue. There is a recall on the 3 for rear brake calipers but that got you 30k miles out of a set instead of 20k. Big woop.
@@PeterrDoucette the rear brakes are designed to apply as much or more pressure than the front. I can tell when braking. It has assist pressure on back brakes
@@JeremySharpSMSGlol no, that's how you lock the rear tires. Assuming forward motion, the rear end gets lighter during braking because the weight transfers forward to the front tires.
Surprised the video didn't mention anything about Mexico vs Japan builds. My 2015 is at 60k miles. No problems with it yet, except that the driver's seat is just a bit loose.
Theyre the same car. A Mazda manufacturer in Mexico has to meet the same standards as Japan, because theyre of course working for the same headquarters. The only thing youre changing is the labor workers
@@JeremySharpSMSG That's not actually totally correct. If you read through the manual, there are many sections with instructions specific to the country of manufacture. They use different bolts, torque values, etc... Likely different suppliers. The vehicles are at least somewhat different, although I agree they should be following a common quality standard.
@@JeremySharpSMSG No, not at all. For other manufacturers and for Mazda, the ones made in Japan are consistently more reliable than the ones made in other countries. The goal of the same outcome is just that----a goal, not a reality.
I agree with the rust. also some aluminium parts like mirror mounts and rear struts mounts oxidise and fail. if you give them a layer of paint you can slow down the oxidation.
The noise he's talking about it literally called the "snap,crackle,pop" under its TSB name. And what that noise is is the metal under your hood under on the upper right side(if sitting in the vehicle)in the corner were your hood is attached to the vehicle. You'll see where that part of the fender was molded with 2 sheets of metal are "crimped/pinched" together. There is a small gap between the sheet metal and when it expands or contracts from hot or cold it makes a snap, crackle,pop sound intermittently. The fix is remove the hood take a metal punch protect that area with cloth to avoid paint damage and tap divits where you see the gap, pinching the two pieces of metal together.
After searching used cars for last few weeks,i realised this car has more demand than any other car in this catagory becoz of its modern look feutures and engine options
@@pseudoproak it’s because it’s a better package, basically same reliability as a Corolla, drives like a Focus, with the interior of a Lexus, especially on high grade levels.
@@NSFDarkIce Hey Matthew. Did you still enjoy your car after a year passed? Give me your thoughts, I just bought my 2015 GT and I am waiting to get it next week.
This prior gen is a better car than the new Mazda3. IRS, lighter weight, cheaper manual options, same engine and transmissions for less, and a better looking hatchback
Another common problem is the hydraulic belt tensioner. I had to replace mine twice the first two years of ownership. First one was leaking second one was rattling.
Japan built Mazda3’s are flawless. The ones with issues are built in Mexico. That’s a fact. Look in the drivers side door jam and it will say where it was made. I have a 2014 made in Japan- still on original brake pads all around and zero issues at 98K miles. It’s flawless. Still gets 44mpg on highway.
I'm surprised the touchscreen isn't mentioned here. Had multiple recurring issues when I had my '15 GT. Even had received a notice from Mazda saying they were aware of the issue and warranty on the infotainment was extended for all mazda3s
You're right about the touchscreen issue, on 3s built around 2014-2016. In the UK there was no recall or extended warranty for this fault, which causes "ghost" entries on satnav, comms, etc. There are various RUclips videos on how to disable the touchscreen, which I followed successfully. I hardly ever used the touchscreen anyway: the captain's wheel and shortcut buttons are more than adequate. For used car buyers, you won't know about this potential problem unless you take the car for a test drive of a few miles on a warm day, with the satnav turned on. If the unit starts bleeping unexpectedly, the touch screen is faulty.
i own a mazda 3, 2015, 2.0 120hp upgrade to 170hp. 93.000 km and 0 problems. ZERO. so i prefer it against german cars that are very much overrated. i just love the car. i love the red color.
@@michelhaineault6654 In Europe they sold a downtuned version of the 2.0l engine with 120hp (although in reality it made closer to 135). It can easily be made to to about 170hp with a software tune, as the 120hp version is simply software limited after 4000rpm. Remove the software limiter, and you get 170hp
@@PaulHojda I did 196 Hp removing restrict + regular tune still good for 2 years already. Still lower fuel consumption but if you drive it redline alot it starts eating a bit of oil but drive normal it doesnt eat oil.
@@steviewonder4796 yeah dude I looked at a 2015 today with $140 on it the engine made noise at first startup didn't sound so good let it sit for 1 minute made the same engine slap again low on oil Maybe it was a stick shift it didn't have a lot of power either didn't like it all the way through I'd rather buy the Yaris 2018 with those smaller motor that seems to be faster these cars need a lot of Maintenance and if you don't maintain them they're going to fall apart especially the motor from what I see in here I'll try to avoid this car unless it was maintain it's not like a Toyota yeah it would burn oil but I think the Toyota was a stronger cost especially the Corolla even though it has its issues too the Mars is too noisy the engine especially when idiots don't like changing the oil in them
Just got a 2014 Mazda3 I sport automatic with 78k miles at CarMax. Does anyone know of any mechanical issues that may arise? Have a month to keep/return vehicle. Thank you
i just bought a 2016 Mazda CX5 (clean tittle) with 68k miles.. any issues that i should be prepare for going forward ...? i did buy it at a dealership in Southern California. I am considering to take it to inspection just in case ?. everything runs great but I don't know what could happen in a month or two.
Holy cow, I was interested in getting a used one----but good lord, rust under the body, rust under the hood, rusty speakers in the doors? Rust on cars made in the 21st century, after we've been using galvanized steel and stainless steel for decades? I think maybe I'll pass.
It’s likely the battery, which you can replace yourself pretty easily! You can Google the make and model of your vehicle, and some results are likely to come up with the right battery type and tips for opening up your specific fob, or you can stop by your local dealer’s parts department for help!
@@iamthekwan I drive it easy. Not pushing it more than 2000-2500 rpms on a normal drive. On the highway, I go maybe 5 miles below the speed limit. I put the best petrol I find, 95 octane and up, E5. I change my engine oil every 6250 miles, including air and oil filter. No special tyres. I think the secret is to drive it gently.
@@antoinemaxima6036 Thanks I'm looking into a used '16 Maz3 Sedan or hatchback. Going to only consider ones that are superbly maintained w/ proof of invoices and test driving them to listen for any issues w/ all components as well as getting my mechanic to inspect the vehicle Overall, are you happy with your 2017 Mazda 3 sedan? Would you recommend a Mazda 3 to a first time car buyer looking for a reliable vehicle for 4-5 years?
@@GTAEmergencyVideography This is a pseudo sport car. Although handling and chassis are fantastic, the drawback are road noise and tight space in the rear.i would only buy if i'm looking for a cheap driver's car. Mine was purchased new, with 53k miles currently, unfortunately the rattle cannot be reproduce by dealer because it comes and goes.Outside of that, all i do is oil change every 5k miles.
@Keeping it clean entertainment it should be a decent choice. Of course, it will not last decades like a Toyota, but if you change the oil every 3000 miles, and don’t do burnouts, and change the cabin air filter once a year, it could still be driving down the road at 290k miles. My advice to people that want a Mazda 3, get one that is a 2010 or newer, as the older ones had some problems with the transmission going out too early. As I knew about a dozen of people that had to have a new transmission put in their 2004-2009 Mazda 3 at about 75,000 miles. That’s the truth about the Mazda 3. Newer is better
it depends on the way you drive, i get almost 700 when i drive on the highway for a full tank, but if im in the city for a full tank flooring it all the time i get like 400ish
For an american I'm surprised he pronounces Mazda the same as we do in the UK. In America, I know its a Marzda. Funny, because in America, the Kia Sportage is a Sportij and in the UK its a Sportarje....capiche? lol
When saying the word Mazda----the first "A" is not pronounced like the "A" in ass-----it's pronounced like the "A" in mama. You've never heard this on a commercial or anywhere else? Holy crap.
I’ll have to explain that to the Japanese people I know who pronounce it as I suggested. I will tell them you corrected them because you know more than they do, or the company itself who pronounces it as I suggested on their broadcast advertising.
@@funktron4 We’re always here to help! These commercials from Canada, the U.K. and Japan will help, too! Mazda Canada: ruclips.net/video/pa-5eXyqtGQ/видео.htmlsi=YqpJyY6MNIyW143N Mazda U.K.: ruclips.net/video/PhDwoIGzZ88/видео.htmlsi=rqQVeF6UibCZQRwG Mazda Japan: ruclips.net/video/JBVZrLoJ8YE/видео.htmlsi=sXQs4S4Msq7CJuGq
Regarding the clicking sound: I found that it's the sun-glass holder in the front roof dome light area. When there are glasses in it they can rattle since it's hard surface on the inside. The sound is omnipresent and very hard to pinpoint, drove me nuts for awhile. If you hear this sound, check that first, remove the glasses and it'll vanish. I put a small block of spongy weather strip tape up there on the inside roof side of the case, to slightly compress the glasses when it's closed and the sound is totally gone.
I have a 2016 hatchback sport with 236k miles. No issues, just normal maintenance
Made in Japan?
@@jessehurley2791 I have a 2014 made in Japan. Been driving it since 2017.
I only had 1 major issue - the touch pad control on the screen has faulted and started sending random inputs. This was covered under recall a while back, but at that point I already manually unplugged the touch layer.
Beyond that it's just maintenance, and stuff typical to anyone driving in rough conditions my area, like a failed rear spring and a front control arm joint.
For anyone concerned with a rattling sound that seems to come from the dashboard/A pillar area, actually check the plate right under the passenger seat. Add some foam under then tighten the screw more. I was really surprised after months finding that terrible rattle didn't come from dashboard even though it seems it did
Could you please explain this more indepth? I don't quite follow after the 1st sentence
@@CFSlayer23Studios50423 I can send you a picture through email if you want
Considering getting a mazda 3 touring 2018 with 31k miles on it. I will def check all the this mentioned in this video thank you
Glad you enjoyed it!
Don’t forget the rust on bose speakers in front doors. the 2013-15 models make ratle noise due to it. So turn up the volume and play base music when inspecting potential buy
Thanks for the info
I had this issue, the rust caused the cone in the speaker to tear causing rattling. Fortunately I was able to get it replaced under warranty but that Bose speaker costs 300$ alone.
It's easy to repair them by yourself. I just did mine in like one hour. Check yt video tutorials. Very easy to fix em.
Took mine out and repaired them with a decent adhesive. Cost me £4 including the replacement door panel clips, and just over 1 hours effort. Mazda quoted £650 for two speakers and labour
@@rayeverett8501 How did you do that? Did you watch any tutorials?
Have a 2016 hatchback and I hear no clicking or weird sounds. Thanks for the maintenance tips, will now check that I'm no missing any maintenance and will ask my mechanic to check for any signs of rust.
Thanks for sharing!
I have a 2014. The most annoying feature of this car are all the components are noisy. The panels rattle and click, as stated in this video and from suspension components can wear out prematurely. I feel like whatever plastics they used in the interior material have maybe hardening over time and making the poorly fitted panels have more room to make noise.
I have the same sounds from the control panel when my 110 kgs father is sititng at the passenger's seat 😂
@stirange my 2014 will be 7 years old on June 20, I’m lucky I had a 6 year MAP on the vehicle as I can’t even remember how many parts needed to be replaced, and there are still strange sounds coming from the left, front end, which Mazda stated were normal since the car was basically new. I don’t drive that much, only 38,000 KM on the car now. It’s fine for what I use it for, happy to have the factory Apple CarPlay refit, but I had fewer problems with Honda products I owned prior to this car.
I have had my Mazda 3 hatchback (diesel 2.2 SportNav) for 6 years and 72,000 miles. It's a great car, very well built, with a few issues like road noise, a problem touch screen depending on manufacturing date, and (in the case of the diesel) a decoke needed after about 60,000. Any car of this age and mileage will have some problems, but I still enjoy driving mine enough not to want to replace it. I recently tried a BMW 4 series (2 litre) and despite all the "driver's car" hype, I found it less fun than the Mazda.
Service book records are useless, they don't prove that the services were done, only that the service book was filled out. I suspected that my vehicle wasn't being serviced properly and secretly marked everything that was supposed to be replaced before I took it to the dealer for a scheduled full service and after I picked up my vehicle I checked for the marks I made only to discover that the only thing done was oil filter and oil change. But the service records in the book were filled out as every thing done to the book. I fronted the dealer with the evidence and they promised to do the whole service again for me. I declined their offer to redo what was supposed to be done and told them that I will take my vehicle elsewhere in future. So don't rely on the service book.
That’s why fill out sheet but also keep all receipts from the service to prove they were done
So true! The dealers do not do a thorough job. Just change the obvious...oil, filters, wipers etc then charge a bag of money
@@SourceHadesgood idea but how do you update the service info on the infotainment?
I test drove this car. Hope to own one some day.
MAAZDA
I have a 2016 hatchback and it has been flawless other than excessive rear brake wear due to bad calipers. Even with the fix Mazda has designed their cars to need back brakes twice as often as the front brakes. I am on rear brake pad set #2 75k miles. I run the crap out of the car and no major issues. The base interior is a bit of the light weight side. Base model is probably the way to go. The more gadgets the more problems. I have a stick shift and love it. I does not need 6 gears though. That extra gear slows down, down shifts because you have too many gear choices. 6-3 is your best bet for passing but it might take two shifts to get there. 3rd gear is good for 100MPH so you probably won't need to shift till then when passing. The wife has a CX-5 of the same year and it has the automatic and it has been great even pulling a 4x8 cargo trailer. Mazda is right up there with Toyota and Honda and maybe better. No CVT rubber band transmission. These are problems not matter what the sales jerk tells you. I WON'T have a CVT and I am an engineer. They are not designed for 20yrs and 200k miles. The windshield being paper thin on the 3 is my biggest complaint. I am on windshield #2. It takes nothing to crack on. #2 is cracked and I am not replacing it till I can't see through it. It is a waste of money to keep replacing them.
Is it just the stock calipers or caliper design in general? I just bought a 2015 with 240k km (150k miles) for $2,900 as is yesterday and drove it home 400km one way with no problems.
So far all I know is the rear brakes are toast so I'm replacing rotors/pads all around, but idk if I should just do both rear calipers while I'm there? Happy to hear it's flawless other than the minor stuff you mentioned! 👍
@@PeterrDoucette I think some corporate dumb ass thought that rear brakes should not last 100k miles so they fixed that problem. Wife's 2016 CX-5 same issue. There is a recall on the 3 for rear brake calipers but that got you 30k miles out of a set instead of 20k. Big woop.
@@PeterrDoucette the rear brakes are designed to apply as much or more pressure than the front. I can tell when braking. It has assist pressure on back brakes
@@JeremySharpSMSGlol no, that's how you lock the rear tires. Assuming forward motion, the rear end gets lighter during braking because the weight transfers forward to the front tires.
Surprised the video didn't mention anything about Mexico vs Japan builds. My 2015 is at 60k miles. No problems with it yet, except that the driver's seat is just a bit loose.
Theyre the same car. A Mazda manufacturer in Mexico has to meet the same standards as Japan, because theyre of course working for the same headquarters. The only thing youre changing is the labor workers
@@JeremySharpSMSG That's not actually totally correct. If you read through the manual, there are many sections with instructions specific to the country of manufacture. They use different bolts, torque values, etc... Likely different suppliers. The vehicles are at least somewhat different, although I agree they should be following a common quality standard.
@@shaun6828 which is the most ideal Japan or Mexico?
@@thedresall I'm guessing Japan. That is often the case with other manufacturers.
@@JeremySharpSMSG No, not at all. For other manufacturers and for Mazda, the ones made in Japan are consistently more reliable than the ones made in other countries. The goal of the same outcome is just that----a goal, not a reality.
I agree with the rust. also some aluminium parts like mirror mounts and rear struts mounts oxidise and fail. if you give them a layer of paint you can slow down the oxidation.
The noise he's talking about it literally called the "snap,crackle,pop" under its TSB name. And what that noise is is the metal under your hood under on the upper right side(if sitting in the vehicle)in the corner were your hood is attached to the vehicle. You'll see where that part of the fender was molded with 2 sheets of metal are "crimped/pinched" together. There is a small gap between the sheet metal and when it expands or contracts from hot or cold it makes a snap, crackle,pop sound intermittently. The fix is remove the hood take a metal punch protect that area with cloth to avoid paint damage and tap divits where you see the gap, pinching the two pieces of metal together.
After searching used cars for last few weeks,i realised this car has more demand than any other car in this catagory becoz of its modern look feutures and engine options
same here..
Seriously. Costs too much compared to cars like the Ford Focus or Hyundai i30
I actually got a 2015 S GT last week. This is an incredible car.
@@pseudoproak it’s because it’s a better package, basically same reliability as a Corolla, drives like a Focus, with the interior of a Lexus, especially on high grade levels.
@@NSFDarkIce Hey Matthew. Did you still enjoy your car after a year passed? Give me your thoughts, I just bought my 2015 GT and I am waiting to get it next week.
This prior gen is a better car than the new Mazda3. IRS, lighter weight, cheaper manual options, same engine and transmissions for less, and a better looking hatchback
Are you serious??? You must be Joking.
Its a matter of preference i'd say, I personally hate the smilely look of the gen 2, the rear end def looks cool but i'd choose a gen 3 any day.
BP all the way as I own it :D
Y'all, I think he's saying gen 3 is better than gen 4, not that gen 2 is better than 3
The non copy write music you have in your video is so frustrating and makes it extremely hard to even finish listening to your video.
I turned subtitles on and the volume off, it was horrible.
😂
WHAT DO YOU MEAN?! I CAN HEAR THE MUSIC JUST FINE! Narration is overrated lol
not that serious bro
*sighs* ...Karens
Another common problem is the hydraulic belt tensioner. I had to replace mine twice the first two years of ownership. First one was leaking second one was rattling.
Is it expensive and or really hard to get to?
@@jaminguizar4615 I'd like to know this too!
how expensive is this problem?? need to know desperately before i buy one
@@Kai88988 It depends on where you live and how expensive labor is. But on average with $350 you have it solved.
Japan built Mazda3’s are flawless. The ones with issues are built in Mexico. That’s a fact. Look in the drivers side door jam and it will say where it was made. I have a 2014 made in Japan- still on original brake pads all around and zero issues at 98K miles. It’s flawless. Still gets 44mpg on highway.
I see tons of owners with made in Mexico m3’s with no issues
I'm surprised the touchscreen isn't mentioned here. Had multiple recurring issues when I had my '15 GT. Even had received a notice from Mazda saying they were aware of the issue and warranty on the infotainment was extended for all mazda3s
You're right about the touchscreen issue, on 3s built around 2014-2016. In the UK there was no recall or extended warranty for this fault, which causes "ghost" entries on satnav, comms, etc. There are various RUclips videos on how to disable the touchscreen, which I followed successfully. I hardly ever used the touchscreen anyway: the captain's wheel and shortcut buttons are more than adequate. For used car buyers, you won't know about this potential problem unless you take the car for a test drive of a few miles on a warm day, with the satnav turned on. If the unit starts bleeping unexpectedly, the touch screen is faulty.
Not in the UK. It seems only extended warranty in the US and Australia. Went to the motoring ombudsman and Mazda weasled out of it
This would have been a great, informative video without the loud, distracting music on a 5 second loop, Couldn't finish it.
i own a mazda 3, 2015, 2.0 120hp upgrade to 170hp. 93.000 km and 0 problems. ZERO. so i prefer it against german cars that are very much overrated. i just love the car. i love the red color.
How do you upgrade it to 170 hp?
mazda 3 120hp ??
@@michelhaineault6654 In Europe they sold a downtuned version of the 2.0l engine with 120hp (although in reality it made closer to 135). It can easily be made to to about 170hp with a software tune, as the 120hp version is simply software limited after 4000rpm. Remove the software limiter, and you get 170hp
@@PaulHojda I did 196 Hp removing restrict + regular tune still good for 2 years already. Still lower fuel consumption but if you drive it redline alot it starts eating a bit of oil but drive normal it doesnt eat oil.
I have an annoying rattle sound when the car starts up or over speed bumps its sounds like some plastic parts tapping deep in the dash
I’ve had mine 2 years now love it but it’s on its third set of wheels. All paid for by Mazda
I’m looking to get one, can you tell me what’s the problem with the wheels
They peel and rot. The tyres deflate as they lose their seal to the alloy wheel. Happened exactly the same on my previous Mazda which was an MX5
I love these cars, but I've heard the skyactive ones develop engine trouble.
This presentation rocks out because it has a groovy beat. ~sarc~
I bought mine when it had 40k miles. It's sitting at 62k and I want to prepare for when these problems might come up.
How has it been? I’m looking at getting one that has 50k miles
@@steviewonder4796 yeah dude I looked at a 2015 today with $140 on it the engine made noise at first startup didn't sound so good let it sit for 1 minute made the same engine slap again low on oil Maybe it was a stick shift it didn't have a lot of power either didn't like it all the way through I'd rather buy the Yaris 2018 with those smaller motor that seems to be faster these cars need a lot of Maintenance and if you don't maintain them they're going to fall apart especially the motor from what I see in here I'll try to avoid this car unless it was maintain it's not like a Toyota yeah it would burn oil but I think the Toyota was a stronger cost especially the Corolla even though it has its issues too the Mars is too noisy the engine especially when idiots don't like changing the oil in them
What about rattling when accelerating
Just got a 2014 Mazda3 I sport automatic with 78k miles at CarMax. Does anyone know of any mechanical issues that may arise? Have a month to keep/return vehicle. Thank you
No. Probably the most reliable car you can own because it doesn't have a cvt
i just bought a 2016 Mazda CX5 (clean tittle) with 68k miles.. any issues that i should be prepare for going forward ...? i did buy it at a dealership in Southern California. I am considering to take it to inspection just in case ?. everything runs great but I don't know what could happen in a month or two.
How is it going one year later?
Is cruise control a standard feature in 2014 Mazda 3? How do I activate it?
Yes it is. You activate it on the right side of the steering wheel.
Holy cow, I was interested in getting a used one----but good lord, rust under the body, rust under the hood, rusty speakers in the doors? Rust on cars made in the 21st century, after we've been using galvanized steel and stainless steel for decades? I think maybe I'll pass.
Should I consider buying a Mazda 3 6-speed automatic with 112,000 with. Recon title?
Don’t buy a rebuild title
I have a fob that doesnt work, any help out their?
It’s likely the battery, which you can replace yourself pretty easily! You can Google the make and model of your vehicle, and some results are likely to come up with the right battery type and tips for opening up your specific fob, or you can stop by your local dealer’s parts department for help!
1:20 woah, 7.7L/100km? That's seriously good mileage; my 2016 Mazda 3 Sedan Auto BM Axela gets only 9.3L/100km. Is this normal for everyone else?
I have a mazda 3 (2016) 2.0L petrol. Best fuel consumption 5.4L/100km.
@@alexm2404 That's bloody amazing. Wonder what I need to do to get it down to that. I managed to get it to 8.2 after servicing and decarbonising.
@@iamthekwan I drive it easy. Not pushing it more than 2000-2500 rpms on a normal drive. On the highway, I go maybe 5 miles below the speed limit. I put the best petrol I find, 95 octane and up, E5. I change my engine oil every 6250 miles, including air and oil filter. No special tyres. I think the secret is to drive it gently.
@@alexm2404 ah, I suppose so. I rev it often 😂
I average about 6.8L per 100km. city. Just took a road trip and got 650 km on 38 litres of fuel.
The clicks, buzzing & rattle is very much a thing on mine. buyers beware.
What year mazda3 do you own? Also is it a hatchback or sedan?
@@GTAEmergencyVideography 17 sedan, i hear the newer one also rattle.
@@antoinemaxima6036 Thanks I'm looking into a used '16 Maz3 Sedan or hatchback. Going to only consider ones that are superbly maintained w/ proof of invoices and test driving them to listen for any issues w/ all components as well as getting my mechanic to inspect the vehicle
Overall, are you happy with your 2017 Mazda 3 sedan? Would you recommend a Mazda 3 to a first time car buyer looking for a reliable vehicle for 4-5 years?
@@GTAEmergencyVideography This is a pseudo sport car. Although handling and chassis are fantastic, the drawback are road noise and tight space in the rear.i would only buy if i'm looking for a cheap driver's car.
Mine was purchased new, with 53k miles currently, unfortunately the rattle cannot be reproduce by dealer because it comes and goes.Outside of that, all i do is oil change every 5k miles.
@@antoinemaxima6036 Thanks for the info. To be safe i'll probably stick to buying a used Corolla. Can't go wrong with those!
How about 2012 Mazda 3. Anything I should look for? It has 130k. on it. Looking at possibly buying
@Keeping it clean entertainment it should be a decent choice. Of course, it will not last decades like a Toyota, but if you change the oil every 3000 miles, and don’t do burnouts, and change the cabin air filter once a year, it could still be driving down the road at 290k miles. My advice to people that want a Mazda 3, get one that is a 2010 or newer, as the older ones had some problems with the transmission going out too early. As I knew about a dozen of people that had to have a new transmission put in their 2004-2009 Mazda 3 at about 75,000 miles. That’s the truth about the Mazda 3. Newer is better
@@daniellecryderman2954 what do you think about a 2017 Mazda 3? is it as reliable as a Toyota?
how do u get 600 km on fill up i only get 500km on a fill up unless i add more
it depends on the way you drive, i get almost 700 when i drive on the highway for a full tank, but if im in the city for a full tank flooring it all the time i get like 400ish
I have Mazda6 2006 2013 2018 also Mazda3 2010 never have any problem just oil change tire brake or battery nothing more
Hi is it a good idea to buy a 2006 mazda 3 with 175k kilometres ( 108k miles) now? Any tips to check it? Thanks 😊
@@parzinirani7297 Mazda is probably good choice for buying
@@ahmetsamardzic5881 thanks
Nice tips 👍
So what would be a reasonable price range for a 2016-2017 model please?
ad stix I paid 14,000 for my 2014 Mazda 3. That was 3 months ago at a local used car dealer in my town. (Memphis, TN) It only had 22k miles on it.
Depends on how picky you are, automatic is pricier, the lower kms are add to price, ect...
I’m looking at a 2017 with 45k miles for 11.6
I paid 13,500 incl. tax, title, and license for a 2017 2.0 Touring manual sedan with 25k miles on it.
Rebuilt or clean title?
Baston
I appreciate the words of advice but that background music is so distracting and same level as your voice. That is noisy.
doesnt this go for any make and model?? duuuuuh!
Damn...I like the look of this year but i don't think I wanted because there to many damn issues
"MAZZ-duh"(?). I've been pronouncing it "MOZZ-duh" all these years... Lol
I think the latter is more correct. The former is more anglicized
And in Japanese it's pronounced Mah-ts(u)-dah
@@PaulHojda good to know. thank you! so I guess all of us here are saying it wrong! lol
teach this guy how to pronounce Mazda
For an american I'm surprised he pronounces Mazda the same as we do in the UK. In America, I know its a Marzda. Funny, because in America, the Kia Sportage is a Sportij and in the UK its a Sportarje....capiche? lol
No he pronounces it correct. Just like the ceo of mazda pronounces it
@@Knightlore10 marzda??? What? Im in US never heard that one.. LOL and sportij? It sportage here too
@@Knightlore10 We say "mahzduh"
Sportage we say it normally, not sportij
The lady is just ignorant of other countries having accents
This is not a grammar class.. please !
When saying the word Mazda----the first "A" is not pronounced like the "A" in ass-----it's pronounced like the "A" in mama. You've never heard this on a commercial or anywhere else? Holy crap.
While it’s pronounced ‘Mahzduh’ in the U.S., in Canada, the U.K. and - probably most crucially, Japan - it’s pronounced just as it is in this video.
I’ll have to explain that to the Japanese people I know who pronounce it as I suggested. I will tell them you corrected them because you know more than they do, or the company itself who pronounces it as I suggested on their broadcast advertising.
@@funktron4 We’re always here to help! These commercials from Canada, the U.K. and Japan will help, too!
Mazda Canada: ruclips.net/video/pa-5eXyqtGQ/видео.htmlsi=YqpJyY6MNIyW143N
Mazda U.K.: ruclips.net/video/PhDwoIGzZ88/видео.htmlsi=rqQVeF6UibCZQRwG
Mazda Japan: ruclips.net/video/JBVZrLoJ8YE/видео.htmlsi=sXQs4S4Msq7CJuGq
Lol just get a new car