Thanks for sharing this. I'm glad my 94 48SPL didn't get that hot. We've had the pontoon for 3 years and finally aboput to get it in the water. The guy I bought it from didn't know you couldn't run them without water but the engine runs great. I decided to replace the pump because it got to the place it didn't want to pump. The impeller was siezed to the shaft and the wedge was toast but that's all. For some reason the round muff nor the rectangle muff will pump water into the water pump. If I drop ot on a tank of water it will pump imediately. Wierd... I don't know anything about these 48SPL's but they must be tough and your videos have been a great help.
I have noticed in many of your previous videos that when you have trouble with flathead or philliphead screws i dont see you use an impact driver. Is there a reason? In my younger days when working on motorcycles it was must have tool when disassembling any aluminum engine.
Oh I sit in cabin of one of my boats watching these good videos and price is right knowing I have a trigger and statr to do today but ya know I love watch this guy work knowing I have so many things to get-together but it's worth it you know this stuff and info is worth so much to me
Great content man! Always enjoy your videos. How do you feel about the choke solenoid modification on I think it's 73-77ish v4 outboards? My 76 115hp Evinrude has that choke system and apparently there's an old OMC bulletin where you wire it so it doesn't do the "half choke" stage. My 76 has a temp sensor and when cold you turn the key on & it engages half way until warmed up. Reason I ask is my 76 runs fantastic all day. 37mph in a 18ft Starcraft Holiday but she's a little hard starting when cold. Once started the first time, it'll fire immediately all day, just cold natured on that 1st one. Supposedly the half choke stage causes it to be too rich and can be hard starting. If wired like in the bulletin it's all or nothing via the switch at the controller. Maybe you could make a video on this idea? I'm gonna try it and see if she's easier to start next time out. Thanks again for all the great content!
Brandon, love your videos. I have a 1987 88hp Evinrude that gives an overheat alarm at low idle. I have replaced the waterpump, T-stats, removed water jackets and cleaned them. I flushed the engine with Rydlyme and still happens. I want to take the heads off to check water flow around cylinders. I only run in fresh water for last 30 years, but original owner ran in salt. I am scared to try to get head bolts out for fear of breaking them. Any tips? socket wrench or impact? Thanks.
I know your asking Brandon, but I wouldn't use impact , especially if you think they might be tight. Torque is not very high on them, use a socket head wrench and make sure they slowly turn. Than use the drill to pull out. My two cents. Take care.
What should the compression be on a 91 120hp compression be also whats the difference between a commercial and non commercial evenrude outboard and help would be greatly apriciated
Got a used 1980 140 hp johnson . Had been sitting a long time ..a bit of burnt paint on right top side but compression was good ran all last year have to check after warm up this year . I think it might have fairly low hours.
Who do you use to bore your blocks? Hard to find someone who will bore a blind hole in Southern CA. LA sleeve will but they're pricy and have a long lead time.
@@BrandonsGarage Hey Brandon, on boring out a 20 over, have you considered using a Lisle 15000 to do it out yourself ? I know its designed to hone , but if you keep going, you will hit 20 over. They offer coarse grits, and pressure is even. ;)
Hi, I have a johnson 60 1984. and for some reason my crankshaft is rubbing on the lower part of the crankcase. Crank web is rubbing on side of the crankcase and is overheating and seizing the engine. The crankshaft has 4 damaged journals so i have replaced it with the new one and new bearings but when i hand turn it it still rubs on the crankcase. Have you ever encountered something like this and what could be the problem?
Must have been ran with literally no vanes at all on the impeller. I’d like to see a ring pulled off and put in the cylinder for a gap measurement. I’m guessing it would be huge.
It would be great if you could do a video on how to link and sync a v4, I’ve seen a few people ask for it and I’m struggling to find info on how to do it elsewhere cheers
I get rid of as many fuel connections they always leak if you bump on wave air comes in I blow through by mouth to check for air leaks even brand new connection they still leak air if fuel line is moved even at my tank on go in with just barb nipple or line in to bottom of tank then i use a caulking tube cap to plug tanks not in use
Brandon do you have a phone number I can call I have the same motor with a big up grade I did to mine she runs 48 mph 12 ft skiff the carb came off a 1978 65 75 HP evenrude middle carb I have the part number for it
I think you're assumption of the waterpump causing the overheat problem is correct. Thank you for the detailed videos!
Your sarcasm on the compression test readings is well noted and enjoyed on this particular example.
My entertainment of late is you, Cody bass, and this old outboard. I think I have a problem.😂
Thanks for sharing this. I'm glad my 94 48SPL didn't get that hot. We've had the pontoon for 3 years and finally aboput to get it in the water. The guy I bought it from didn't know you couldn't run them without water but the engine runs great. I decided to replace the pump because it got to the place it didn't want to pump. The impeller was siezed to the shaft and the wedge was toast but that's all. For some reason the round muff nor the rectangle muff will pump water into the water pump. If I drop ot on a tank of water it will pump imediately. Wierd... I don't know anything about these 48SPL's but they must be tough and your videos have been a great help.
Love the autopsy carnage videos. You can’t run these without water and expect a good outcome!
I have noticed in many of your previous videos that when you have trouble with flathead or philliphead screws i dont see you use an impact driver. Is there a reason? In my younger days when working on motorcycles it was must have tool when disassembling any aluminum engine.
Oh I sit in cabin of one of my boats watching these good videos and price is right knowing I have a trigger and statr to do today but ya know I love watch this guy work knowing I have so many things to get-together but it's worth it you know this stuff and info is worth so much to me
some crispy bits on that engine
Great content man! Always enjoy your videos. How do you feel about the choke solenoid modification on I think it's 73-77ish v4 outboards? My 76 115hp Evinrude has that choke system and apparently there's an old OMC bulletin where you wire it so it doesn't do the "half choke" stage. My 76 has a temp sensor and when cold you turn the key on & it engages half way until warmed up. Reason I ask is my 76 runs fantastic all day. 37mph in a 18ft Starcraft Holiday but she's a little hard starting when cold. Once started the first time, it'll fire immediately all day, just cold natured on that 1st one. Supposedly the half choke stage causes it to be too rich and can be hard starting. If wired like in the bulletin it's all or nothing via the switch at the controller. Maybe you could make a video on this idea? I'm gonna try it and see if she's easier to start next time out. Thanks again for all the great content!
Brandon, love your videos. I have a 1987 88hp Evinrude that gives an overheat alarm at low idle. I have replaced the waterpump, T-stats, removed water jackets and cleaned them. I flushed the engine with Rydlyme and still happens. I want to take the heads off to check water flow around cylinders. I only run in fresh water for last 30 years, but original owner ran in salt. I am scared to try to get head bolts out for fear of breaking them. Any tips? socket wrench or impact? Thanks.
I know your asking Brandon, but I wouldn't use impact , especially if you think they might be tight. Torque is not very high on them, use a socket head wrench and make sure they slowly turn. Than use the drill to pull out. My two cents. Take care.
What should the compression be on a 91 120hp compression be also whats the difference between a commercial and non commercial evenrude outboard and help would be greatly apriciated
Can you make a video on how to properly adjust all the throttle linkages for the Johnson evinrude 25hp
Got a used 1980 140 hp johnson . Had been sitting a long time ..a bit of burnt paint on right top side but compression was good ran all last year have to check after warm up this year . I think it might have fairly low hours.
Who do you use to bore your blocks? Hard to find someone who will bore a blind hole in Southern CA. LA sleeve will but they're pricy and have a long lead time.
Have to mail them out.
If you watch my "outboard gets a new piston" video, I mention his name.
@@BrandonsGarage Hey Brandon, on boring out a 20 over, have you considered using a Lisle 15000 to do it out yourself ? I know its designed to hone , but if you keep going, you will hit 20 over. They offer coarse grits, and pressure is even. ;)
Hi, I have a johnson 60 1984. and for some reason my crankshaft is rubbing on the lower part of the crankcase. Crank web is rubbing on side of the crankcase and is overheating and seizing the engine. The crankshaft has 4 damaged journals so i have replaced it with the new one and new bearings but when i hand turn it it still rubs on the crankcase. Have you ever encountered something like this and what could be the problem?
I seen this happen when a fellow switched a case half from another case. These cases are matching pairs.
That bottom is crispy lol
Would you please rebuild my Evinrude 30hp lower unit?
Must have been ran with literally no vanes at all on the impeller. I’d like to see a ring pulled off and put in the cylinder for a gap measurement. I’m guessing it would be huge.
Brandon, I have a complete replacement 28 special powerhead if you are interested.
It would be great if you could do a video on how to link and sync a v4, I’ve seen a few people ask for it and I’m struggling to find info on how to do it elsewhere cheers
That fly wheel looked un ballenced when you spun bye hand like it was not put even by someone or it may be the view of camra
I get rid of as many fuel connections they always leak if you bump on wave air comes in I blow through by mouth to check for air leaks even brand new connection they still leak air if fuel line is moved even at my tank on go in with just barb nipple or line in to bottom of tank then i use a caulking tube cap to plug tanks not in use
The open heart surgery on this I love it mmmm
😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢
I never seen such bad lower
Brandon do you have a phone number I can call I have the same motor with a big up grade I did to mine she runs 48 mph 12 ft skiff the carb came off a 1978 65 75 HP evenrude middle carb I have the part number for it