Hi Brandon I brought an old boat with johnson 50 outboard and didn't know where to start until I found your video's,very easy to follow keep up the great work 👍
Quick question Brandon, after watching this video I decided to take the foot/ gearbox off my 2000mod 50hp Johnson to service water pump tho in the process of dropping the oil I removed the wrong screw and undid the screw that holds the dente balls in place.. I quickly put it back in tho now am unsure if the gear rod is supposed to only notch into neutral or in forward and reverse aswell? Starting in neutral you can feel it locked in then when I pull the rod up it goes up and I turn the drive shaft and prop spins then I push down back to neutral and the gear rod slides freely until it finds neutral again where it notches into place.Same when I push it down into forward position it takes a bit of force to get out of neutral and when in forward the prop spins correctly when I turn drive shaft tho when I pull back into neutral it slides freely until it finds the neutral position where it notches into place again.. Is this normal or is it supposed to notch into all gears when gearbox is sitting in vice? Thanks in advance ☺️
Reminds me of my 1988 Sunbird boat with an Evinrude 88 HP SPL motor (with no power tilt). Never had any problems other than manually tilting the motor.🙄
88 i have ever seen that !! from my recall 90, 115, 140 hp was the common ones here, but maybe it just was a sticker change😀. i had an older 1979 140hp Evinrude before VRO, Worked fine until it spun the spline out of the cranckshaft, but the 88hp is new to me
Hi Brandon, Good for the extra parts tho...I have a question, I have this exact same motor although mine is a 1989 - 88SPL that DOES run fantasticallyand I want to put the power tilt/trim on it. Can you give me any direction as to all that's needed to do this mod? Thanks for your vids!
It looks like someone mounted the coils on backward to accommodate the length of plug wires. I don’t remember V4 coils being mounted with the backside of the coil facing the rear of the outboard.
Are the parts worth the money? That aside, this looks like a motor I might buy for tear down practice. Just bought a 1988 115 Johnson for a winter project. Was told it ran before it was taken off the boat to be re-engined. We'll see.
Some people can't help being dishonest; it's the way they think. "Everybody's out to screw me, so I'll screw them first!" I've had lots of 'friends' like this.
Your knowledge and experience is outstanding! Are all of the Johnson lower units interchangeable? I have a 2001 135 hp where my lower unit driveshaft seals went out and I noticed when the engine didn't want to run at WOT and then noticed some oil coming out of the weep hole. It had leaked quite a bit of water in and it wasn't lubricating the gears anymore which is where it made a weird sound when I tried to go WOT. But the good news, I think, is that the oil and water was separated and not milky so I believe I caught it early.
2001 135... the 90 degree V4 or 60 degree V6? if the v4 you can use any 1992-up V4 crossflow (shift shaft change) or looper gearcase as well as the V6 cases. V6 any 1993-on up should work.
Hi Brandon, Im from Australia and I saw a video that showed all your manuals so I hope that you can help me. I have a 1984 140hp Johnson. I have found my tacho is unreliable above 4000RPM and on some starts it seems to bounce the needle until power cycle. Upon further investigation and trying to bypass the loom 'gray wire' and go straight to the gauge (which didnt work) and found that the wiring is not as per the wiring diagram of the old service manual. in short the gray wire from the rectifier is conttected with one of the yellow wires from the stator. it is not bonded with the red wire as the wire diagram states. (seems the terminal block is upside down) Q1. would this be likely to cause my issue. ? Q2. should I rewire as per the wire diagram. ? Regards and Thanks Rob (Melbourne, Australia)
Did you get scammed ? Depends on how much you gave him ! If it were $100 I’d say no ( lots of parts ) if it were $300 I’d say yes ! Most people would been screwed because of its needs but not you or I because we need the parts that we could harvest off it , the 88 SPL V4 parts are used in a lot of different motors so it won’t be waisted !
Some people are just not right I had a guy tell me don’t call me until after 12:00 noon for a 35hp Johnson I called him at 1:00 he says I sold it 7:30 AM thanks for telling me to wait until noon. I told him he said I forgot unreal great videos 👍🏻🤘🏻
It's so fun sometimes. A guy selling a 30 HP said to text, I text. He responds with "give me a call" I call him and get "yeah I sold it." WTH do I need to call you for then??
It's always something with boats... I get to pull the whole mercruiser I/O and engine out to do frost plugs behind the flywheel (after doing an impeller because it wasn't pumping water at idle) and now it's dumping water into the boat. Did you get screwed? Yea, but not as bad as having to pull out a whole boat/motor/I/O drive. So something to be happy about right?
Hey Brandon, I've got a 1988 Evinrude, 140hp v4 with 130-135 on all 4 cylinders. What does it mean, taking for granted that I don't know its history ? If the pistons haven't been tempered with, does it mean it has low hours or was well taken care of ? If the pistons have been messed with (rebore or piston rings or whatever else), does it mean the job was done recently ? From what I know, the guy from who I bought it has had the boat for 2 years or so, but hasn't ran it more than 4 times. The previous guy bought it from someone in Ontario, CA, but he's done quite a few things to the boat. Are there any ways to find out quickly (without taking the powerhead completely apart) if a motor has been tempered with, cylinder-wise ?
hey man i always enjoy content.. i know it's irrelevent to this video but i have a 25 j25rdim and the power head is off and i can't figure it out how to remove pin that shift lever selector is on that is thru pin on mid unitthe pin is locked up
Cool video lots of information. I have a 78 evinrude 85hp. Runs good. Had the lower unit rebuilt. Now the motor only has forward and neutral. What would you think the problem is?
shift rod out of adjustment, or your shift cables are out. Take the shift cable out of its trunnion and turn the flywheel and push into reverse. if it works, adjust cable. if not, drop the lower and try to shift it manually. if nothing (turn driveshaft or propshaft obviously) then it was rebuilt incorrectly.
well that first spark test didnt look like an even blink to me. of course you really need an open-air gap to test strength. anyway i hope you didn't pay anything over $150 for that thing. good parts sure... but they take labor to remove. hopefully that powerhead is salvageable though and the trim works so thats really good. id take the powerhead off, new head gaskets, diverters, you can always go up a size or 2 on the mains and leave the air silencer off if you have 60c's or 58's even lying around.
At 130 PSI compression and even on all cylinders, powerhead seems to be fine. I'm sure you can determine why it wouldn't fire and salvage the powerhead for another project. Otherwise, it's a parts motor. If you can use parts, it's worth what you paid.
It is! It's a lighted socket extension. I bought it for filming the hard to reach bolts. I've never used it because hard to reach also means hard to get the camera in.
@@BrandonsGarage Pretty cool. Always looking at new tools. Another question if you have a moment - Would you ever consider a collaboration video with another RUclipsr? @tightlinetv is a young guy who dives right in on boat restorations and builds. I love the do it myself attitude but he does (no disrespect at all ) lack in the motor side but seems 100% willing to learn. I think it would make a great collaboration for us boat nerds out here. Just an idea. Thanks for your videos.
got a 1980 140 hp had to blow out the choke lines to get it to fire up 118 on three cly 112 on one . got roller trailer. bowrider needs floorplus 140 for $750canadian i had it running for 10 sec then i shut it off will try again in april fresh water motor think it might be a low hr motor. 😀
Sorry you got ripped off. But, on a positive note, I'm glad I was able to watch a video of you pulling the lower apart, and putting gas in the carbs and it still not starting. I wonder why it didn't start? Flywheel key was a good guess. But, I think when that shaft broke, it probably just stopped spinning the prop, and didn't suddenly kill the motor - more like going into neutral. Don't ask me how I know, heh heh. But, yeah, maybe a bit of metal jammed something, and it suddenly stopped. You cleaned the carbs, and had spark and compression? Timing? Exhaust clogged?
@@BrandonsGarage I agree with you on the amount. You done good on that. These face book folks are something. I like the ones that say "runs perfect, but may need some carburetor work" lol.
The golden rule here remains that unless a motor is actually started by the seller, you must deal it price-wise as a non-runner / parts motor. This doesn't mean that you'll get it cheap but rather that you'll generally get what you paid for. Regards and thanks for the video !
yes exactly! people are asking crazy $ for these when in reality dont realize the time and $ it takes to get these back to proper running condition. its incredible how people dont know this and say "ran great when put away" lol. I haven't paid more than $250 for a 2cyl-V4 motor in years.
If it had a prop, I could have used that to chop down a tree and fashion myself up an oar to paddle off the island. Alas, everything about this engine stays on the island.
Brandon yes you was taken for a scam on this motor but hey you only paid him half his money so I feel with the useable parts you have it was probably worth it.p.s I am a Mercury marine engineer in the uk and have rebuilt a lot of these Johnson outboards in the past .
Hi Brandon I brought an old boat with johnson 50 outboard and didn't know where to start until I found your video's,very easy to follow keep up the great work 👍
Gosto muito dos seus videos, mesmo não conhecendo seu idioma, entendo sua explicação. Graças a você eu mesmo sou mecanico do meu motor.
Quick question Brandon, after watching this video I decided to take the foot/ gearbox off my 2000mod 50hp Johnson to service water pump tho in the process of dropping the oil I removed the wrong screw and undid the screw that holds the dente balls in place.. I quickly put it back in tho now am unsure if the gear rod is supposed to only notch into neutral or in forward and reverse aswell? Starting in neutral you can feel it locked in then when I pull the rod up it goes up and I turn the drive shaft and prop spins then I push down back to neutral and the gear rod slides freely until it finds neutral again where it notches into place.Same when I push it down into forward position it takes a bit of force to get out of neutral and when in forward the prop spins correctly when I turn drive shaft tho when I pull back into neutral it slides freely until it finds the neutral position where it notches into place again..
Is this normal or is it supposed to notch into all gears when gearbox is sitting in vice?
Thanks in advance ☺️
Reminds me of my 1988 Sunbird boat with an Evinrude 88 HP SPL motor (with no power tilt). Never had any problems other than manually tilting the motor.🙄
do you think that you could do a shop tour?
88 i have ever seen that !! from my recall 90, 115, 140 hp was the common ones here, but maybe it just was a sticker change😀. i had an older 1979 140hp Evinrude before VRO, Worked fine until it spun the spline out of the cranckshaft, but the 88hp is new to me
Hi Brandon,
Good for the extra parts tho...I have a question, I have this exact same motor although mine is a 1989 - 88SPL that DOES run fantasticallyand I want to put the power tilt/trim on it. Can you give me any direction as to all that's needed to do this mod? Thanks for your vids!
It looks like someone mounted the coils on backward to accommodate the length of plug wires. I don’t remember V4 coils being mounted with the backside of the coil facing the rear of the outboard.
only #3 is backwards. i see that all the time!
Are the parts worth the money? That aside, this looks like a motor I might buy for tear down practice. Just bought a 1988 115 Johnson for a winter project. Was told it ran before it was taken off the boat to be re-engined. We'll see.
Some people just love being dishonest
Some people can't help being dishonest; it's the way they think. "Everybody's out to screw me, so I'll screw them first!" I've had lots of 'friends' like this.
Do you have a solid running 90 johnson fr sale?
Your knowledge and experience is outstanding! Are all of the Johnson lower units interchangeable? I have a 2001 135 hp where my lower unit driveshaft seals went out and I noticed when the engine didn't want to run at WOT and then noticed some oil coming out of the weep hole. It had leaked quite a bit of water in and it wasn't lubricating the gears anymore which is where it made a weird sound when I tried to go WOT. But the good news, I think, is that the oil and water was separated and not milky so I believe I caught it early.
2001 135... the 90 degree V4 or 60 degree V6? if the v4 you can use any 1992-up V4 crossflow (shift shaft change) or looper gearcase as well as the V6 cases. V6 any 1993-on up should work.
@@ct1762 Thank you for the info. It is a V4 and the cylinders are 90 degrees. I have tried searching to the end of the web to figure this out!
Hi Brandon,
Im from Australia and I saw a video that showed all your manuals so I hope that you can help me.
I have a 1984 140hp Johnson. I have found my tacho is unreliable above 4000RPM and on some starts it seems to bounce the needle until power cycle.
Upon further investigation and trying to bypass the loom 'gray wire' and go straight to the gauge (which didnt work) and found that the wiring is not as per the wiring diagram of the old service manual.
in short the gray wire from the rectifier is conttected with one of the yellow wires from the stator. it is not bonded with the red wire as the wire diagram states. (seems the terminal block is upside down)
Q1. would this be likely to cause my issue. ?
Q2. should I rewire as per the wire diagram. ?
Regards and Thanks
Rob (Melbourne, Australia)
scammed by there are some good parts and tilt works .. my 1974 85HP Johnson doesn't have a tilt which I have missed but still use without it
Did you get scammed ? Depends on how much you gave him ! If it were $100 I’d say no ( lots of parts ) if it were $300 I’d say yes ! Most people would been screwed because of its needs but not you or I because we need the parts that we could harvest off it , the 88 SPL V4 parts are used in a lot of different motors so it won’t be waisted !
That "i", however, was wasted.
@@Steve-wz5pz ?
yep its $150 worth tops
Some people are just not right I had a guy tell me don’t call me until after 12:00 noon for a 35hp Johnson I called him at 1:00 he says I sold it 7:30 AM thanks for telling me to wait until noon. I told him he said I forgot unreal great videos 👍🏻🤘🏻
It's so fun sometimes.
A guy selling a 30 HP said to text, I text.
He responds with "give me a call"
I call him and get "yeah I sold it."
WTH do I need to call you for then??
With 130psi, the engine core is worth a couple/three hundred - assuming the transmission's sudden and violent end didn't trash the crank bearings.....
my 1980 johnson 140 hp does have a choke primer system my 1980 60 hp 2cly has carb choke plates must be first year
It's always something with boats...
I get to pull the whole mercruiser I/O and engine out to do frost plugs behind the flywheel (after doing an impeller because it wasn't pumping water at idle) and now it's dumping water into the boat.
Did you get screwed? Yea, but not as bad as having to pull out a whole boat/motor/I/O drive. So something to be happy about right?
It’s not a scam if you can exploit enough value out of it for your own means
What is the best spark plug to use in a 78 Johnson 115? I gotta buy some coils too. (Thieves) what do you suggest?
Love your channel BTW!
Hey Brandon, I've got a 1988 Evinrude, 140hp v4 with 130-135 on all 4 cylinders. What does it mean, taking for granted that I don't know its history ? If the pistons haven't been tempered with, does it mean it has low hours or was well taken care of ? If the pistons have been messed with (rebore or piston rings or whatever else), does it mean the job was done recently ? From what I know, the guy from who I bought it has had the boat for 2 years or so, but hasn't ran it more than 4 times. The previous guy bought it from someone in Ontario, CA, but he's done quite a few things to the boat. Are there any ways to find out quickly (without taking the powerhead completely apart) if a motor has been tempered with, cylinder-wise ?
is there anything wrong with the motor? that seems like a normal pressure range for a v4, does it not?
hey man i always enjoy content.. i know it's irrelevent to this video but i have a 25 j25rdim and the power head is off and i can't figure it out how to remove pin that shift lever selector is on that is
thru pin on mid unitthe pin is locked up
Yeah, there is a C-clip holding it in.
Should be covered in oil/exhaust crud, but its there.
Cool video lots of information. I have a 78 evinrude 85hp. Runs good. Had the lower unit rebuilt. Now the motor only has forward and neutral. What would you think the problem is?
shift rod out of adjustment, or your shift cables are out. Take the shift cable out of its trunnion and turn the flywheel and push into reverse. if it works, adjust cable. if not, drop the lower and try to shift it manually. if nothing (turn driveshaft or propshaft obviously) then it was rebuilt incorrectly.
@@ct1762 thank-you I will give that a try.
Looks like a lot of hands have been in this 😳
That's probably putting it lightly.
well that first spark test didnt look like an even blink to me. of course you really need an open-air gap to test strength. anyway i hope you didn't pay anything over $150 for that thing. good parts sure... but they take labor to remove. hopefully that powerhead is salvageable though and the trim works so thats really good. id take the powerhead off, new head gaskets, diverters, you can always go up a size or 2 on the mains and leave the air silencer off if you have 60c's or 58's even lying around.
Coils backward. That would do it.
At 130 PSI compression and even on all cylinders, powerhead seems to be fine. I'm sure you can determine why it wouldn't fire and salvage the powerhead for another project. Otherwise, it's a parts motor. If you can use parts, it's worth what you paid.
What was that flashlight you were using? Looked like the plastic from buying a socket.
It is! It's a lighted socket extension.
I bought it for filming the hard to reach bolts.
I've never used it because hard to reach also means hard to get the camera in.
@@BrandonsGarage is it posable you could do a shop tour
@@BrandonsGarage Pretty cool. Always looking at new tools.
Another question if you have a moment - Would you ever consider a collaboration video with another RUclipsr? @tightlinetv is a young guy who dives right in on boat restorations and builds. I love the do it myself attitude but he does (no disrespect at all ) lack in the motor side but seems 100% willing to learn. I think it would make a great collaboration for us boat nerds out here. Just an idea. Thanks for your videos.
got a 1980 140 hp had to blow out the choke lines to get it to fire up 118 on three cly 112 on one . got roller trailer. bowrider needs floorplus 140 for $750canadian i had it running for 10 sec then i shut it off will try again in april fresh water motor think it might be a low hr motor. 😀
1980 had choke flaps, not a primer like this one but hes putting fuel directly into the intake so that wouldnt be the issue.
I have 1989 90 HP Evenrude with periscope controls that actually does run good if you are intrested.
" Yea it was running great when i stored it"
Sorry you got ripped off. But, on a positive note, I'm glad I was able to watch a video of you pulling the lower apart, and putting gas in the carbs and it still not starting. I wonder why it didn't start? Flywheel key was a good guess. But, I think when that shaft broke, it probably just stopped spinning the prop, and didn't suddenly kill the motor - more like going into neutral. Don't ask me how I know, heh heh. But, yeah, maybe a bit of metal jammed something, and it suddenly stopped. You cleaned the carbs, and had spark and compression? Timing? Exhaust clogged?
If the motor has good compression, then it's a good motor. But, misssing all those parts definitely makes it questionable.
How much did he discount for not having the controls? Seems to be a good parts motor
He wanted to do $50, I countered at $100.
$100 is a fair price for a controller, so it's not a big deal, I just didn't like the lie.
@@BrandonsGarage I agree with you on the amount. You done good on that. These face book folks are something. I like the ones that say "runs perfect, but may need some carburetor work" lol.
Dang shame it didn't turn out better.
The golden rule here remains that unless a motor is actually started by the seller, you must deal it price-wise as a non-runner / parts motor. This doesn't mean that you'll get it cheap but rather that you'll generally get what you paid for. Regards and thanks for the video !
yes exactly! people are asking crazy $ for these when in reality dont realize the time and $ it takes to get these back to proper running condition. its incredible how people dont know this and say "ran great when put away" lol. I haven't paid more than $250 for a 2cyl-V4 motor in years.
As to the motor refusing to pop ? I'd look at the intake reed plate and leaves. Stay safe and be merry !
reeds are an extremely rare part to go bad , and it would still pop. i guess its possible who knows what was done to that poor thing!
Rent the pontoon and remove the controls. “I don’t know where they went “?
yes Brandon but like it has been said Karma is out there🤣
Unless you were on a iland with no otherway to get home i would leave it on the iland. Anything on that motor is well used.
If it had a prop, I could have used that to chop down a tree and fashion myself up an oar to paddle off the island.
Alas, everything about this engine stays on the island.
More cowbell👍
Not fuel
Brandon yes you was taken for a scam on this motor but hey you only paid him half his money so I feel with the useable parts you have it was probably worth it.p.s I am a Mercury marine engineer in the uk and have rebuilt a lot of these Johnson outboards in the past .
I would be going get my money back or we would fight
I think you should get scammed more often.
It makes good videos with enjoyable rants.
Is the money still on the wall?than no scam you win.
I've been thinking of using it for pizza.
I hope you did not pay more than $100 for that
10 to 1 you will never see the controls I HATE A LIER
Yup you were scammed
Butcher