NOT AT ALL HELPFUL... If you follow his advice you will have water leaking into the timber. It may start slowly but will create a long term nightmare. Watch a video done by a professional so you see how it is done properly
Thank you for the video, couple things for the viewers. Normally you want to start on the bottom to keep the tile from sliding down or falling off the wall, and make sure you get those edges, Also you want to mud thick and trowel the wall and a thin layer on your tiles. Press fit them into place and make any leveling as you go. One other tip when removing tiles, score the grout around the tiles you want to remove so you don't chip them as you remove the old tiles. Older homes may not have extra tiles or you can match them so use painters tape to preserve the edges of the tiles staying otherwise you will scrap the color off... Leveling can be done by eye but get a 3 foot level and use it to level the tiles so the edges are all the same... you push on one corner the other corner will pop up slightly. Good job, remember to seal your grout as well.
This was the video that is the closest to my current situation. All the others are plugging some expensive stuff that the pros use. Thank you Tim! You made it look do-able.
It took me forever to find a video or even a website that showed me how to repair a tile wall without tearing down the whole tile wall. I didn't have leftover tiles because our house is 25 years old, but I picked out a decorative tile and installed it looked less like a patch and more like a design. Also, I really appreciated that I didn't need to buy any special tools and could just use my Dremel Multi Max!
Seems about t right. If you have the tools and skills it's a job you can do. For the tools you could spend half that getting the stuff you will need to do it right. If you do not have the skills you could do more than $500 in long term m damage if you don't waterproof it correctly. Sometimes its not the cost of the widget, it's where to put it and how to place it properly that you are paying for. Best of luck. BTW - Case in point - there is no waterproofing in thiw shower which is why it's damaged in the first place. This will fail again and there is probably more damages behind that wall that isn't causing trouble. Yet. CBU, thinset, tile and grout is not waterproof.
Thanks for the video man! I've been needing something like this since part of my shower is leaking. Every other video is showing how to do the whole shower which I didn't need lol.
great video, really helped seeing how to repair. Had a bunch of water going through wall and into floor below, turns out the mortar between tiles had deteriorated, ripped out the section with rotted out sheetrock behind it and now I have pretty decently sized hole in my shower wall.
Fantastic job!!! Well done!!! I'm a woman and have learnt so much from you Tim, my need is simpler, just to re-stick a loose tile which I didn't know and thanks to your great work shared with us now I'm doing it myself :) Thank you so much :)
Maybe go buy a grout bit for your oscillating saw. Works faster and doesn't damage the tile. for actual tile removal maybe buy a knife bit for the same oscillating saw. With these you will cut your time in half. I do this daily. Works great for small/minor repairs.
Just wanted to say that you should never use that premixed thin set because it’s organic and will never fully dry in a shower. Instructions should say on the label not to use in a shower. Also I would definitely be concerned that there is no waterproofing at all in your shower. The only thing holding water back is the cement board and that is only a matter of time before that fails. I would recommend everyone to do more research before doing any repairs on your shower.
Is there a way to do this repair correctly? We cannot get our tile anymore so the only way I know to do this properly is to tear out all of the tile & start over. It does not appear that our shower was properly waterproofed. I sure would like to find a way to repair instead of replace. My tile is about the same size that's in this video and I was able to remove 3 tiles without breaking using heat.
Actually additional waterproofing is not an issue with cement board. But you should be sure that all cracks are filled with something. Usually a good grouting job solves this problem. Around fixtures (faucet, etc), using plumbers' putty would do the job.
nice job 👍. I have to remove some 6x6 from a shower and do a larger space and account for shower handles (the valves were replaced with different kinds and plumber busted open the wall) and I figured this is what I would have to do, just wasn't sure what screws to use. good to see somene else doing it from A to Z. ✌️
A great first video for us would be shower fixers. Thanks for your advice. Also for the comments of others too. All make excellent points. I only wondered about going round corners? The tile at the bottom on the other wall, next to tbe broken one looks cracked too?
Drey Hi Drey. Good question. Actually, I think I did sponge on a sealer afterwards just didn’t include it in the video. I needed to give all the existing grout good cleaning before applying the sealer.
I might be wrong, it looked like the shower had some sort of plastic in the stud bay; It may have been built with plastic in-wall vapor retarder instead of paint-on. 9:20 for reference
@@timbarker4189 I noticed that the old screws and or nails behind the tile you took of were rusty. It means that you have had moisture in behind your tiles and I would say that you have created long term problems for yourself by not applying a quality water seal. My recommendation is you start again and remove all the lower tiles and waterproof the wall.... I am repairing a shower right now and I had to start by removing the base and tiles up to 4 levels, then waterproofing it all before laying new tiles....
You have a time bomb here. Grout sealer on the surface is not waterproofing anything. This is going to leak qnd cause major damage. Just trying to help you out. It was not waterproofed properly by the builder which is why it leaked in the first place. It will come back and cause major damage if you don't repair it right. You need Redguard or Hydroban on top of the cbu (cement backer board), and appropriate thinset (powder and water mixed) for the tiles that cures properly. Premix is glue that dries (not cures) and is not for wet areas. best of luck
Amazing video! Thank you! I need help deciding what to do in the middle of a DIY job. I have removed the old grout at the intersection of the wall tile and acrylic bathtub in our bathroom (where tan color tiles meet the white tub in your video). I may have removed too much though, which has prompted me to stop and ask for input. When I slide a business card in the slot (removed grout depth), I measure more than 1/2 inch, which is deeper than the tile's thickness. Did I take some of the concrete backer board? Any advice on what to do at this point is highly appreciated.
omg I had the exact same thing happen to me last week. exact same tile broke while I was removing caulking. I just replaced the tile, my issues with the concrete board were different.
I’ll give you an A for effort but there’s a better and simpler way to do what you did. Next time try this. Take a 4” side grinder with a Diamond blade on it. It cuts tile and board like a knife through butter. Instead of sanding down previous thin set you didn’t save anything by reusing the old backer board especially when the minimum size you customarily have to buy is bigger than the piece you replaced. Just replace the entire backer behind all the tile you removed. Now you have a nice new even surface at the right depth to reinstall to tile. The rest of your project is fine.
May I suggest you consider regrouting with EPOXY grout. You clearly have cemetitious grout and NO waterproofing. After building 2 x bathrooms myself down to the studs I’ve learned that water always goes thru the grout and sometimes the tiles and tries to flow back into the shower thru the silicone band at the bottom (why silicone gets mouldy, it’s water and dirt from behind the silicone. Epoxy is the only waterproof grout and it never stains. A professional would tell you to totally replace all walls esp since you have mould. A renovator tool with a rectangle blade would of been easier. You will have water damage behind the tiles I’m sorry to say, esp if anyone is in the shower for more than 10 mins at a time. Cemetitious grout was designed for short shower times, these days we tend to have longer showers.
It doesn’t looks like the original job was waterproofed, probably why it failed in the first place. Not sure it would help to waterproof only the repair. But yes it should be waterproofed.
...that self adhesive joint tape....bad idea. 1. first apply mortar to the joint between the two pieces of cement board. 2. press water resistant taping (ie. Kerdi tape) 3. then, mortar over the tape. You are counting on adhesive tape to maintain and hold on a rough, used surface...not good. Adhesive backing is very prone to letting go in situations as your.. ALSO...that's NOT it !!! ...use grout sealer once grout is dry (..at least a couple applications) ALL water prone areas such as bathrooms and kitchens (back splash, counters and even floors) should ALWAYS have a good quality sealer...cheap ceramic tiles and definitely grout is porous.
The adhesive on the polymere coated fiberglass tape is redundant when used in combination with a typical thinset mortar. The thinset, as it dries, produces a crystalline lattice that penetrates and bonds to the surface behind the tape, essentially creating a bond at the atomic level. The primary function of the tape in this application is to create a reinforcement barrier (much like rebar is used in reinforcing large cement structures) that will hold the thinset in position as it dries to create the aforementioned bond. Good call on the grout sealer, though.
A trick of the bob vila is perfecting the art of doing work to the side of things so the camera can get a decent shot of said work instead of the back of the head.. is funny when as a viewer you catch yourself trying to move around to see past... lol..
I have (12) 4 1/2 X 4 1/4 tiles second row from bottom of shower that are bulging at their bottom. I want to try and remove them, but I'm afraid what I might find behind. A couple of years ago I recaulked a bunch of areas up above but I wasn't even sure it was a source of water penetration. I guess I could try it and if I'm in over my head I can always call somebody to fix it. I probably shouldn't let it go any longer. Good video!
You got there in the end the tiling was painful to watch thou. Tbh I'd have ripped the hole lot out. who ever done it to start with needs a smack in the chops
I know this video is like a million years old and I highly doubt anybody's going to see my comment but is there any way to take the tiles off without breaking them cuz the tiles are like 20 years old and we can't get ones that match
Not a pro either but, I would remove the immediate surrounding tile as well, just to make sure I'm removing and repairing all the damaged area. Plus, if the backer board is damaged it's impractical not to go stud, to stud. I mean, this is a shower we're talking about, not plain drywall. "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure."
It's just going to fall off again as you never waterproofed the cement board and laid the tile against the shower tray. The wood floor beneath the shower will flex leading to hairline cracking.
This advice should not be followed. Not waterproofed and the wrong "thinset", also. That is mastic and NOT for for wet areas. Anyone watching this video please do not follow this advice. The work in this video is not done correctly. This work will fail again. Just a matter of time. And the issues it causes in the future will cost alot of money in damage. To be fair it was done wrong by the builder and although "it's just a patch job" , it's a wet area and water damage is very costly. Please, please do not follow this advice.
Thanks for watching and for the feedback. I can tell you this repair was made 4 years ago and the shower is used daily and I’ve had no issues with the repair to date.
Good vid..you are the only video that shows a repair. Everyone else shows how to don the whole shower.
Thanks! Glad the video was helpful.
NOT AT ALL HELPFUL... If you follow his advice you will have water leaking into the timber. It may start slowly but will create a long term nightmare. Watch a video done by a professional so you see how it is done properly
Thank you for the video, couple things for the viewers. Normally you want to start on the bottom to keep the tile from sliding down or falling off the wall, and make sure you get those edges, Also you want to mud thick and trowel the wall and a thin layer on your tiles. Press fit them into place and make any leveling as you go. One other tip when removing tiles, score the grout around the tiles you want to remove so you don't chip them as you remove the old tiles. Older homes may not have extra tiles or you can match them so use painters tape to preserve the edges of the tiles staying otherwise you will scrap the color off... Leveling can be done by eye but get a 3 foot level and use it to level the tiles so the edges are all the same... you push on one corner the other corner will pop up slightly. Good job, remember to seal your grout as well.
Get your own channel.
Great tips. Thanks!
I was primarily interested in replacing damaged cement board and you covered that topic very well, thanks!
This was the video that is the closest to my current situation. All the others are plugging some expensive stuff that the pros use. Thank you Tim! You made it look do-able.
It took me forever to find a video or even a website that showed me how to repair a tile wall without tearing down the whole tile wall. I didn't have leftover tiles because our house is 25 years old, but I picked out a decorative tile and installed it looked less like a patch and more like a design. Also, I really appreciated that I didn't need to buy any special tools and could just use my Dremel Multi Max!
Thanks! A guy wanted to charge me $500 to install 4 6" X 6" tiles and the cement board. I got this!
How'd it go with the tile repair??
Seems about t right. If you have the tools and skills it's a job you can do. For the tools you could spend half that getting the stuff you will need to do it right. If you do not have the skills you could do more than $500 in long term m damage if you don't waterproof it correctly. Sometimes its not the cost of the widget, it's where to put it and how to place it properly that you are paying for. Best of luck. BTW - Case in point - there is no waterproofing in thiw shower which is why it's damaged in the first place. This will fail again and there is probably more damages behind that wall that isn't causing trouble. Yet. CBU, thinset, tile and grout is not waterproof.
Thanks for the video man! I've been needing something like this since part of my shower is leaking. Every other video is showing how to do the whole shower which I didn't need lol.
great video, really helped seeing how to repair. Had a bunch of water going through wall and into floor below, turns out the mortar between tiles had deteriorated, ripped out the section with rotted out sheetrock behind it and now I have pretty decently sized hole in my shower wall.
Dealing with a very similar situation!
Fantastic job!!! Well done!!! I'm a woman and have learnt so much from you Tim, my need is simpler, just to re-stick a loose tile which I didn't know and thanks to your great work shared with us now I'm doing it myself :) Thank you so much :)
Thank you! I am about to repair some of my shower tiles, and this addressed my issue with connecting the cement board.
the ONLY video i need right now as a first timer. Thank you.
This was the perfect instructional video for what I have to do. Thank you.
Make sure you don't do what he has done. It will create a nightmare problem for you
I looked everywhere for this and you were the most helpful by a longshot!
Thank you! Happy to say repair still solid after many years! Good luck with your project
Maybe go buy a grout bit for your oscillating saw. Works faster and doesn't damage the tile. for actual tile removal maybe buy a knife bit for the same oscillating saw. With these you will cut your time in half. I do this daily. Works great for small/minor repairs.
Great tips. Thanks.
My problem is from bottom to half way up the wall. Now I gotta get busy. Thanks for making this videi.
Very nice👌detail but to the point & step by step🔥keep'em coming (content)
Just wanted to say that you should never use that premixed thin set because it’s organic and will never fully dry in a shower. Instructions should say on the label not to use in a shower. Also I would definitely be concerned that there is no waterproofing at all in your shower. The only thing holding water back is the cement board and that is only a matter of time before that fails. I would recommend everyone to do more research before doing any repairs on your shower.
Is there a way to do this repair correctly? We cannot get our tile anymore so the only way I know to do this properly is to tear out all of the tile & start over. It does not appear that our shower was properly waterproofed. I sure would like to find a way to repair instead of replace. My tile is about the same size that's in this video and I was able to remove 3 tiles without breaking using heat.
Thanks. Good tips.
Actually additional waterproofing is not an issue with cement board. But you should be sure that all cracks are filled with something. Usually a good grouting job solves this problem. Around fixtures (faucet, etc), using plumbers' putty would do the job.
nice job 👍. I have to remove some 6x6 from a shower and do a larger space and account for shower handles (the valves were replaced with different kinds and plumber busted open the wall) and I figured this is what I would have to do, just wasn't sure what screws to use. good to see somene else doing it from A to Z. ✌️
Any tips about to attempt this samething this weekend
Nice video, thanks for taking the time and effort!
Thank you I learned and thank the other folks that commented
Thanks Clem. Glad it was helpful.
A great first video for us would be shower fixers. Thanks for your advice. Also for the comments of others too. All make excellent points. I only wondered about going round corners? The tile at the bottom on the other wall, next to tbe broken one looks cracked too?
Thanks for your feedback. 7 years later repair still holding up (knock on wood).
@@timbarker4189 I'm glad to hear it. Sorry if it sounded a bit snippy, and I didn't realise that was so long ago! Hugs from Scotland x
@@amyloueliza Not snippy at all! Hope you have a lovely day.
Great job, mahalo for posting. Gotta repair mine too.
excellent video. Did you use sanded or unsanded grout for this ? Thanks
Great job for your first video!!
Thk God..Mine just broke & ur the 1st video that popped up..😓
This really helped me. Thanks!
Could have used Kerdi Band as well, to help waterproof underneath cause grout always seems to fall out.
Any recommendations on if the hole in the cement board behind the tile was cut exactly on the grout lines?
You need mesh joint tape in on all the cement board seams.
Thanks for the video. I learned a lot.
Thank you, Mr Barker.
Great video. Thank you. Why didn’t you use a paint on water sealer also?
Drey Hi Drey. Good question. Actually, I think I did sponge on a sealer afterwards just didn’t include it in the video. I needed to give all the existing grout good cleaning before applying the sealer.
I might be wrong, it looked like the shower had some sort of plastic in the stud bay; It may have been built with plastic in-wall vapor retarder instead of paint-on. 9:20 for reference
@@timbarker4189 I noticed that the old screws and or nails behind the tile you took of were rusty. It means that you have had moisture in behind your tiles and I would say that you have created long term problems for yourself by not applying a quality water seal. My recommendation is you start again and remove all the lower tiles and waterproof the wall.... I am repairing a shower right now and I had to start by removing the base and tiles up to 4 levels, then waterproofing it all before laying new tiles....
You have a time bomb here. Grout sealer on the surface is not waterproofing anything. This is going to leak qnd cause major damage. Just trying to help you out. It was not waterproofed properly by the builder which is why it leaked in the first place. It will come back and cause major damage if you don't repair it right. You need Redguard or Hydroban on top of the cbu (cement backer board), and appropriate thinset (powder and water mixed) for the tiles that cures properly. Premix is glue that dries (not cures) and is not for wet areas. best of luck
@@gextreme2381 He is not interested in having his "little bubble" shattered. He only respond to people who tell him he has done well :)
Fantastic work will you be doing another video like this soon?
Is it okay to put the shower over the tile and remove the bottom half and replace it with new concrete border?
Great video!
Good job for your fitst video - advise - just dont repeat yourself so much
Amazing video! Thank you! I need help deciding what to do in the middle of a DIY job. I have removed the old grout at the intersection of the wall tile and acrylic bathtub in our bathroom (where tan color tiles meet the white tub in your video). I may have removed too much though, which has prompted me to stop and ask for input. When I slide a business card in the slot (removed grout depth), I measure more than 1/2 inch, which is deeper than the tile's thickness. Did I take some of the concrete backer board? Any advice on what to do at this point is highly appreciated.
Very nice for a 1st time.
Terrific job and thanks!
One suggestion for removing tiles. Remove the grout first makes it a little easier.
Nice video. Did you backbutter the tiles before placing? Home Depot sells tile spacers fyi.
omg I had the exact same thing happen to me last week. exact same tile broke while I was removing caulking. I just replaced the tile, my issues with the concrete board were different.
Thanks, doing this tomorrow 😁
Awesome! Thanks for sharing!! 👍👍👍
Thanks! Glad you appreciated it.
I’ll give you an A for effort but there’s a better and simpler way to do what you did. Next time try this. Take a 4” side grinder with a Diamond blade on it. It cuts tile and board like a knife through butter. Instead of sanding down previous thin set you didn’t save anything by reusing the old backer board especially when the minimum size you customarily have to buy is bigger than the piece you replaced. Just replace the entire backer behind all the tile you removed. Now you have a nice new even surface at the right depth to reinstall to tile. The rest of your project is fine.
May I suggest you consider regrouting with EPOXY grout. You clearly have cemetitious grout and NO waterproofing. After building 2 x bathrooms myself down to the studs I’ve learned that water always goes thru the grout and sometimes the tiles and tries to flow back into the shower thru the silicone band at the bottom (why silicone gets mouldy, it’s water and dirt from behind the silicone. Epoxy is the only waterproof grout and it never stains. A professional would tell you to totally replace all walls esp since you have mould. A renovator tool with a rectangle blade would of been easier. You will have water damage behind the tiles I’m sorry to say, esp if anyone is in the shower for more than 10 mins at a time.
Cemetitious grout was designed for short shower times, these days we tend to have longer showers.
Great job!
It’s a good idea to red guard the joints
Eh, if you coat the area with fecal matter than the animals will stay away so is pointless to use blood.
you forgot to waterproof the backer board with Red Gard
do you really need to though? the hardy backer is water proof, and I thought red guard was for floors/pans?
@@cwr8618 Hardy backer or any cement board is not waterproof until a water proof membrane is installed over it.
It doesn’t looks like the original job was waterproofed, probably why it failed in the first place. Not sure it would help to waterproof only the repair. But yes it should be waterproofed.
...that self adhesive joint tape....bad idea.
1. first apply mortar to the joint between the two pieces of cement board.
2. press water resistant taping (ie. Kerdi tape)
3. then, mortar over the tape.
You are counting on adhesive tape to maintain and hold on a rough, used surface...not good.
Adhesive backing is very prone to letting go in situations as your..
ALSO...that's NOT it !!! ...use grout sealer once grout is dry (..at least a couple applications)
ALL water prone areas such as bathrooms and kitchens (back splash, counters and even floors) should ALWAYS have a good quality sealer...cheap ceramic tiles and definitely grout is porous.
The adhesive on the polymere coated fiberglass tape is redundant when used in combination with a typical thinset mortar. The thinset, as it dries, produces a crystalline lattice that penetrates and bonds to the surface behind the tape, essentially creating a bond at the atomic level. The primary function of the tape in this application is to create a reinforcement barrier (much like rebar is used in reinforcing large cement structures) that will hold the thinset in position as it dries to create the aforementioned bond.
Good call on the grout sealer, though.
Just hush..
Thank you! What tool was that you used?
Dang. I got to do this. Thanks
Thanks for sharing, awesome job. GF1 👍👍👍👍👍😁😁😁😁😁😎
This Video Was Very Helpful Thank you I’m going To Subscribe 👍🏻
thank you for this video bud
A trick of the bob vila is perfecting the art of doing work to the side of things so the camera can get a decent shot of said work instead of the back of the head.. is funny when as a viewer you catch yourself trying to move around to see past... lol..
Where is the water proofing behind the Durrock, there is suppose to be plastic or tar paper??
I have (12) 4 1/2 X 4 1/4 tiles second row from bottom of shower that are bulging at their bottom. I want to try and remove them, but I'm afraid what I might find behind. A couple of years ago I recaulked a bunch of areas up above but I wasn't even sure it was a source of water penetration. I guess I could try it and if I'm in over my head I can always call somebody to fix it. I probably shouldn't let it go any longer. Good video!
that tape didnt seem like it adhered very well..hope the other stuff helped it out
Do you need to waterproof the cement board or is there a vapor barrier behind it (before it was screwed onto the wall studs)?
You should waterproof it, but it looks like the original shower was not. Likely why it failed in the first place.
Should there be a membrane behind that backer board at least on the lower row?
It looks to me that membrane is already there.
Thanks
I don't feel so bad, my house is 60 yrs. old. Thank you for the video.
You got there in the end the tiling was painful to watch thou. Tbh I'd have ripped the hole lot out. who ever done it to start with needs a smack in the chops
You'll be taken seriously when you learn to use the right words. "the "whole" lot out". Whoever "did" it to start.
I know this video is like a million years old and I highly doubt anybody's going to see my comment but is there any way to take the tiles off without breaking them cuz the tiles are like 20 years old and we can't get ones that match
Thanx for video.
No problem. Hope it was helpful.
can you upload a video of repairing a broken cement board PLEASE please please there is a broken part of a whole wall cement board please upload
Cool this helps
Well I went the opposite route I just spread an entire tube of silicone and crossed my fingers 😢
I'm no expert but surely there is a acceptable way to just patch the area behind the one small tile & not remove those surrounding good tiles.
Not a pro either but, I would remove the immediate surrounding tile as well, just to make sure I'm removing and repairing all the damaged area. Plus, if the backer board is damaged it's impractical not to go stud, to stud. I mean, this is a shower we're talking about, not plain drywall. "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure."
It's just going to fall off again as you never waterproofed the cement board and laid the tile against the shower tray. The wood floor beneath the shower will flex leading to hairline cracking.
2 years since repair and no issues thus far, knock on wood!
geepers how long did that take you to actually do?
Obviously 18 minutes and 42 seconds... psh... some scientist you are..
👍
This advice should not be followed. Not waterproofed and the wrong "thinset", also. That is mastic and NOT for for wet areas. Anyone watching this video please do not follow this advice. The work in this video is not done correctly. This work will fail again. Just a matter of time. And the issues it causes in the future will cost alot of money in damage. To be fair it was done wrong by the builder and although "it's just a patch job" , it's a wet area and water damage is very costly. Please, please do not follow this advice.
Thanks for watching and for the feedback. I can tell you this repair was made 4 years ago and the shower is used daily and I’ve had no issues with the repair to date.
@@timbarker4189 Not surprising. That's how water is. It slowly destroys.
Protection
Condom works 🤔
Yea i prefer glock brand..
Those were install wrong, you did not redguarded the wall.
Your words were not englished right, the usage of letters make stupid sounds of failed alphabet organizations commented.
@@Z-Ack ever heard of red Guard dummy?
Are you a wanna be tiler giving real tile guys a bad name?
The whole installation is bad, behind the cement board is suppose to be plastic or tar paper
There was vapor barrier behind the tile. Repair and rest of shower still going strong. Thanks for watching.
@@timbarker4189 Bullsh!t
too bad you dont know the other purpose of the multiporpose tool.. cause you probably would have saved yoursefl alot of work.
I agree, theyre called multitools for a reason. Hammer function almost works as well as the paint brush,.
L
Great video!