Great video. I got a pair of these thrown in for free when I bought a used pair of Buchardt Audio S300 speakers from a gentleman up in Brookline MA. They already had the sand in them even. They're a little too short for my purpose, and they didn't come with the spikes. But I made them work, although the end result is not very pretty. 😁 I am very impressed with them though. And not impressed "for the cost". Just impressed period. These are the stands you want to buy. Believe me. I will say that the Rockville two tone ones, that are made of wood (two posts each). I bought for my Mom are nice too (they're about the same price). And with her tiny Jamo S 801 PM speakers. Didn't really need sand. They look better IMO. But these are much better for bigger bookshelf speakers, because they're way more sturdy. I'll probably eventually step up to a taller set of these. I can't really see any reason to spend more on stands. I can't picture a more expensive pair being heavier duty then these. Honestly, I don't know how they can sell them so cheap. The wooden ones I can see, but these are much more beefy, and have 4 posts vs the 2 in the wood ones. ✌️
An informative video and a very affordable option to some of the ridiculously-priced, assembled monitor stands from the UK. I have used a similar stand filled with dry sand and what I discovered helps is a very thin line of black silicon caulking on the ends of the metal tubes. It's barely noticeable, and once firmly bolted to the top and bottom plates, any excess caulk can be wiped off. This step make the metal to metal contact air tight. So if one fills the tubes with dry sand or kitty litter, it prevents any "fine dust" from getting out - especially if one uses kitty litter as the filler.
Yeah these are excellent stands at a bargain price! I have a 28” pair and I filled them with kitty litter and I couldn’t believe the improvement they made in the sound! It really solidified the sound and brought it more into focus.
Nice, it's almost an hour drive but I might have to drive up to the Parts Express store and see if any of the ladies there are looking for a husband. If worse comes to worse I'll settle for Best Buy or something.
I own the 24 inch and 32 inch stands.They are amazingly sturdy when you fill them with sand or kitty liter. Only stand I trust my Polk LSIM 702 surround speakers on. Great to see you exploring these affordable stands
Wow..with the exception of the base plates (negligible difference), they look exactly like Target or Atlantis stands, that usually sell for $500-$800/pair at hi-fi boutique shops.
I read somewhere that you should fill with sand up to 2/3 of the way, otherwise you risk changing the center of gravity to the top once you put the speakers on which makes them more prone to tip.
great video! i have a pair of r51m from klipsch and was worried the speaker width of 7" was too much for the 6" stand. But looks like from your video a little overhand is expected. Thanks!
I own these are they are nice for the price. I ran some glue around the bottom inside to prevent sand from leaking. I filled it with sand from my cabin at the beach so that is kind of nice to have a piece of that in my listening room. That worked OK, still some small leakage of really fine sand/dust. I think it will stop coming out when what openings remain, get clogged with larger gains of sand. Pretty heavy with the stand and 4 columns filled.
@@Youthman we moved into a new house and the way the couch is sitting and where the surrounds are going (Def Tech SM55) the stands had to reach over the back of the couch. Worked out perfectly. I'm in the process of resetting up my home theater. Have the new TCL 75R635 coming tomorrow to round out the whole thing.
Thank you for uploading. I appreciate the "unboxing" video, but wow, are the actual reviews terrible for these (and every other stand listed in the comments). This is the limit of an "unboxing": doesn't tell us how it will actually perform over time. The adage "you don't get something for nothing" really seems to apply to budget stands. I'd rather spend more $upfront than gamble with shoddy manufacturing. With all of these made of thin metal, quality control is an issue. I know that you could gamble and even if you had to buy three just to get one good one, you might be slightly ahead, financially. But I don't want the grief and disappointment. Thanks again for the vid and all the comment contributors: it helps people like me figure out what we need.
Use of spikes depends on your floor. If it is concrete and/or is covered by carpet or tile on concrete, no worries. If wooden floors, you’ll need a sandtrap made of pressboard and filled with the same sand and/or resin used for your stands. Terminating spikes into wood is not recommended or advised. It should be common sense, but often isn’t. Wooden floors and spikes do not get along. Just in case you haven’t heard. The feet on the bottom of the sand trap are threaded into t nuts installed on the bottom of the sand traps. The feet should be resilient as to not couple with the floor. Wood resonates. The whole point of the sand trap is isolation from the floor without harming it. The sand trap absorbs the excess energy of the speaker through the stand. If the speaker is good, it will sound good. If it is deficient, that will shine as well. Speakers can be modified to improve them from failures. A poorly dampened stand is an abomination. For a speaker to terminate it’s energy properly, either spikes or ball bearings are the best options. This requires a modification to the stand for ball bearings. Three holes drilled and countersunk to equal depths on all holes. It makes leveling easier. For premium finishes like on more expensive model speakers, ball bearings are the best way to couple the speaker to the stand so it can terminate that energy to the sand trap or hard surface floor whichever applies. If you have questions, feel free to ask. Audio accessories like stands is what I do. Make your experience a positive one and share your hobby. Stay safe my mates!😊👍🏻😷
@@jolkraeremeark6949, what is underneath the vinyl flooring? Is it a concrete slab or is it conventional framing? This matters. The key to know is what the floor material is and what is under it. If it is a wood floor, no spikes for that regardless of what is underneath it. Vinyl over concrete, carpet over concrete and tile over concrete or straight concrete floors get spikes. In all instances where a sand trap is used, spikes go into the sand trap. Hope this helps.
@@jolkraeremeark6949 , then Mr Remeark, a sand trap with adjustable feet and spikes to go on the stand. The stand needs to be filled completely with dry, filtered sand. Casting resin, acrylic casting resin specifically, can be added to fill all gaps. This offers the best results. Feel free to ask questions for this is how we learn.
I have two pair of those, they are eighty dollars a pair cheaper than at one place where they are two hundred a pair Pays to shop around. Have one pair for mains, one for side surrounds, buying another pair when I get rear surround bookshelves. All B&W 700 and six hundred series, these look like b&w stands, love em.
Great video! I have two questions: 1) how much sand in lbs do you think I should get for 2x of these stands? 2) Do you recommend using the carpet spikes if I am placing these on a rug? They dont seem to stick very far into a woven rug vs. a tufted carpet. Thanks!
Hey Kyle, I’m not sure how much sand are used. I had some leftover sand in a 5 gallon bucket more than likely if you picked up a bag of sand from Lowe’s that would be sufficient it’s not that much. I have always used for spikes with regular carpet on top of a cement floor and you can fill the spikes go through the carpet all the way to the cement.
Great video as always Michael. As mentioned it's a bit of a shame there is no cable management. But you could always drill a hole, top and bottom of one of the tubes and feed the speaker wire through.
Hey Youthman! Big fan.. Was wondering, do you think two of these would be able to hold a Klipsch 504C? Ive had a lot of difficulty finding a stand for it cause of how deep it is. Let me know when you can. Thanks !
Great stands, especially when filled. What would you recommend, the Rotel RMB 1585 or the NAD M27? I’m looking to add an amp to my Marantz 8012 and eventually go to real separates.
Depends on what better fits your set up. Do you want here 20 Watts of difference between the two amplifiers. Do you need 5 or 7 channels? What better fits your budget.
Hi. THANKS for the video!! I have the same Klipsch 61 speakers. Did you notice any discernible difference in sound when mounting these on stand (w/sand) VS> what you had before? Thanks again!!
I wonder if these would actually support up to 75 pounds like they claim? I just blew my whole budget on some Arendal 1723 THX Monitors and now I need some inexpensive stands lol.
@@randleton_ I purchased the stands and assembled them but when my speakers got here I decided to not even try and put them on the stands. I just felt like the speakers were way too big and heavy to risk it. I'm using 2 HSU vtf-15h mk2 subwoofers as my "speaker stands" for now lol.
@@Brian.M Thanks for letting me know! I was thinking of the same idea but it will probably be a while until I can get identical dual subs lol. Guess I'll still be on the look out for some stands.
i'd honestly say 75 pounds is a little conservative - i myself weigh around 145 pounds and had to sit on one of mine for a moment it took the weight like a champ
Great Video as always. I wanted to ask a quick question about auddessy, So I have a PC2000 connected to an Onkyo tx sr608. Recently I was able to connect a denon 4500h, run audessy and the subwoofer came alive. Man, I couldn't believe my ears, the room was literally throbbing from the amount of bass. Sadly the 4500h had to be returned and I was back to the anemic bass from the 608tsx. What could be the reason as to why the bass is so poor compared to the 4500h? Thanks for all that you do, you're channel reignited my passion for audio.
@@Youthman Thanks for taking the time to reply, did audyssey change how it works, from 2EQ to multiEQ XT32 I took REW measurements and what's weird is that the curve looks completely different. I thought audyssey would measure the exact same way
I’m not sure how Placing a bookshelf speaker on speaker stands that are completely solid vs half full would make a difference. We place bookshelf speakers on entertainment centers and other solid surfaces all of the time with no issues
@@Youthman This is what found on dynaudio site on how much sand “In principle, you should add as much weight as possible. However, you can add too much and change the centre of gravity - making it more prone to falling over. We usually recommend 2/3 full, which is the industry rule of thumb." Personally i plan to follow this 2/3rd rule. If stand still rings at that point, top it off until ringing goes away
I need to figure out what height I need to put the tweeters at ear level when seated. In your opinion, (assuming you couldn't find the perfect height) is it better for the tweeter to be higher or lower than your ears?
I am 6' tall. I am going to make a pair of stands at (near) ear level standing up...(since I do most of my listening while cooking/in the kitchen)....Maybe 5' high angled up. I will let you know how it works...
I have the 24" stands. I didn't bother filling them with anything. They are really sturdy and they weigh about 20 lbs with nothing in them. I move them around quite a bit so the extra weight just doesn't seem worth it to me.
As mentioned in the video, most choose to fill them with sand, lead shot or kitty litter. If not, they will resonate when playing music (which is not a good thing).
Honestly I’m not certain. There might be a company that makes a solid steel speaker stand but that would be extremely heavy, I would be very expensive. Making them hollow and allowing users to fill the space with their own material is a lot cheaper for the brand and for the consumer. Sand is $5 a bag
LOL we get them here every year. Several years ago we had a really bad one coming this way. It was the size of Florida. We picked up a lot of sandbags to put outside the door to prevent flooding inside the house
I need to fill my speaker stands with sand. Only thing is i need to put the sand in plastic sandwich bags so that it doesn't pour out the cable routing hole at the bottom of the posts on my vivo stands.
No different than placing them on a table that is solid. The only negative of filling them all the way to the top is you place the center of gravity higher which could potentially lead to them tipping over more easily. Has nothing to do with sound
If you need slightly taller stands like I did, these 36" models from Rockville are fantastic for the money: www.rockvilleaudio.com/rhtsc/?gclid=CjwKCAjwnef6BRAgEiwAgv8mQaFb71ZWicUs3MBZ9Bly5EEsywHQTbaKyxoYjG_IUQlHLhprsUrkTBoCNXAQAvD_BwE They are sand fillable as well. I used four of these for my casual setup in the living room and they look great.
Hi God bless you i never win nothing but the only win is the have free RUclips and have great amazing video and this is my great price God bless you all of you are great amazing awesome person's
A stand that is insignificant in build quality is a disaster waiting to happen. Sealing the bases of each of these columns is critical for this stand. The use of only filtered, screened and clean sand is not a question, it is a requirement. You may think it extreme to torque each fastener rather than just hand tighten it. This is how aircraft and missiles are assembled. Mediocre assembly is as bad as mediocre products. Each must choose his/her own path. Each fastener has a torque spec/range. Uniform tightness assures the fastener is not damaged nor is your stand. It’s what you want. Make your choice and roll the dice or choose smart assembly practice. Once your base is near column, seal the bottom of the column with a black silicone caulk. This ensures the sand will not seep out. Take a combination square and square up the edges to for each column. If the columns are wonky looking, that is your fault.Torque to spec and repeat till all columns are attached. The hardest part is over. Air gaps will cause ringing so fill completely each column. The fasteners in the top should be lightly lubricated and put into their threaded holes to final depth prior to sand filling if you plan on using acrylic casting resin to fill any gaps left in the column cavity. This will yield the best results, but not everyone strives for the best performance. Sand can be slow to settle so be sure that the sand is fully settled prior to inserting the resin. The stand will get hot from the resin curing so keep children and pets away from it while this is in progress. Once the resin cures, it is time for the top plate install. The screws inserted into the columns prior to top plate installation will be removed now. The black silicone caulk gets beaded on top of each column. Be careful to use two fasteners to guide each top plate down on the columns. It is advisable to hand tighten each fastener before applying torque to any and do so in a manner much like a wheel on a car. This will achieve an even downward force on all fasteners. Torquing gives consistent results and achieves a best practice job. Wipe any excess caulk off any plate and column surface. To keep messes down, get a buddy to help and share your hobby. Your girlfriend may even be game for this.Sound extreme? Not to prior service tech mechs. You can learn a lot from military service. Stay safe my mates!😊👍🏻😷
@@Youthman, I’m not here to kick your way. Just think if people want highest possible results, effort must be exerted. This method I use will separate the great speakers from the chaff. In my work, there is no second place finishes. It’s full bore, hardcore or sit on the porch. It was how I made my living in the past and it still holds true today. Press on sir! Your not far from the real. Keep pressing on and up!
I absolutely appreciate the info for those that would be interested in going the extra mile. It simply isn’t something I myself would do for a $900 bookshelf system when it sounds fantastic like it is.
Great video. I got a pair of these thrown in for free when I bought a used pair of Buchardt Audio S300 speakers from a gentleman up in Brookline MA. They already had the sand in them even. They're a little too short for my purpose, and they didn't come with the spikes. But I made them work, although the end result is not very pretty. 😁
I am very impressed with them though. And not impressed "for the cost". Just impressed period. These are the stands you want to buy. Believe me. I will say that the Rockville two tone ones, that are made of wood (two posts each). I bought for my Mom are nice too (they're about the same price). And with her tiny Jamo S 801 PM speakers. Didn't really need sand. They look better IMO. But these are much better for bigger bookshelf speakers, because they're way more sturdy.
I'll probably eventually step up to a taller set of these. I can't really see any reason to spend more on stands. I can't picture a more expensive pair being heavier duty then these. Honestly, I don't know how they can sell them so cheap. The wooden ones I can see, but these are much more beefy, and have 4 posts vs the 2 in the wood ones. ✌️
Thx for sharing your experience with them.
@@Youthman Just wondering will because of them being metal will it be all rusty after a year or is there something else on them that protect them?
An informative video and a very affordable option to some of the ridiculously-priced, assembled monitor stands from the UK. I have used a similar stand filled with dry sand and what I discovered helps is a very thin line of black silicon caulking on the ends of the metal tubes. It's barely noticeable, and once firmly bolted to the top and bottom plates, any excess caulk can be wiped off. This step make the metal to metal contact air tight. So if one fills the tubes with dry sand or kitty litter, it prevents any "fine dust" from getting out - especially if one uses kitty litter as the filler.
Yeah these are excellent stands at a bargain price! I have a 28” pair and I filled them with kitty litter and I couldn’t believe the improvement they made in the sound! It really solidified the sound and brought it more into focus.
Must've really clumped up all the resonances.
I just bought those last week. My wife works for Monoprice so got them very cheap. They are very nice.
Awesome!
Nice, it's almost an hour drive but I might have to drive up to the Parts Express store and see if any of the ladies there are looking for a husband. If worse comes to worse I'll settle for Best Buy or something.
I own the 24 inch and 32 inch stands.They are amazingly sturdy when you fill them with sand or kitty liter. Only stand I trust my Polk LSIM 702 surround speakers on. Great to see you exploring these affordable stands
Thanks Matt
I am looking for stands for my Polk LSI 9 so this would be perfect.
Hey Youthman those are great stands.I bought two pair of the 32inch a couple weeks ago and filled them with kitty litter.Worked like a charm.
Awesome Lewis!
Thanks Michael, love the look of these but was surprised to see there was no cable management. My current stands include this
Wow..with the exception of the base plates (negligible difference), they look exactly like Target or Atlantis stands, that usually sell for $500-$800/pair at hi-fi boutique shops.
I got the monoprice monolith....32 and 28 inch. Good stand, good value.
Im digging the change up in production and intro. Great content as always
Thank you kindly. Trying out some new things
You could run the cable inside of the 4 legs so it is less visible.
I love your videos man thax torry from Uganda east Africa
Thank you kindly
I read somewhere that you should fill with sand up to 2/3 of the way, otherwise you risk changing the center of gravity to the top once you put the speakers on which makes them more prone to tip.
I have read that too. Probably depends on how heavy your speakers are
great video! i have a pair of r51m from klipsch and was worried the speaker width of 7" was too much for the 6" stand. But looks like from your video a little overhand is expected. Thanks!
I own these are they are nice for the price. I ran some glue around the bottom inside to prevent sand from leaking. I filled it with sand from my cabin at the beach so that is kind of nice to have a piece of that in my listening room. That worked OK, still some small leakage of really fine sand/dust. I think it will stop coming out when what openings remain, get clogged with larger gains of sand. Pretty heavy with the stand and 4 columns filled.
Thx for the insight. I’ll have to see if any sand leaks over time
I needed 40+ inch stands recently so I ordered these really nice Harmony Audio DJ speaker stands, 43 inches. Worked absolutely perfect.
Wow! Why so high? Are you standing when listening to them?
@@Youthman we moved into a new house and the way the couch is sitting and where the surrounds are going (Def Tech SM55) the stands had to reach over the back of the couch. Worked out perfectly.
I'm in the process of resetting up my home theater. Have the new TCL 75R635 coming tomorrow to round out the whole thing.
Ah that makes sense. I was thinking front speakers 😀
@@Youthman front speakers (SM 65 LCR) are on much lower stands.
Thank you for uploading.
I appreciate the "unboxing" video, but wow, are the actual reviews terrible for these (and every other stand listed in the comments).
This is the limit of an "unboxing": doesn't tell us how it will actually perform over time. The adage "you don't get something for nothing" really seems to apply to budget stands.
I'd rather spend more $upfront than gamble with shoddy manufacturing. With all of these made of thin metal, quality control is an issue.
I know that you could gamble and even if you had to buy three just to get one good one, you might be slightly ahead, financially. But I don't want the grief and disappointment.
Thanks again for the vid and all the comment contributors: it helps people like me figure out what we need.
I've had the stands now for 3 years and have no issues. They do what they are designed to do. Hold bookshelf speakers.
Use of spikes depends on your floor. If it is concrete and/or is covered by carpet or tile on concrete, no worries. If wooden floors, you’ll need a sandtrap made of pressboard and filled with the same sand and/or resin used for your stands. Terminating spikes into wood is not recommended or advised. It should be common sense, but often isn’t. Wooden floors and spikes do not get along. Just in case you haven’t heard. The feet on the bottom of the sand trap are threaded into t nuts installed on the bottom of the sand traps. The feet should be resilient as to not couple with the floor. Wood resonates. The whole point of the sand trap is isolation from the floor without harming it. The sand trap absorbs the excess energy of the speaker through the stand. If the speaker is good, it will sound good. If it is deficient, that will shine as well. Speakers can be modified to improve them from failures. A poorly dampened stand is an abomination. For a speaker to terminate it’s energy properly, either spikes or ball bearings are the best options. This requires a modification to the stand for ball bearings. Three holes drilled and countersunk to equal depths on all holes. It makes leveling easier. For premium finishes like on more expensive model speakers, ball bearings are the best way to couple the speaker to the stand so it can terminate that energy to the sand trap or hard surface floor whichever applies. If you have questions, feel free to ask. Audio accessories like stands is what I do. Make your experience a positive one and share your hobby. Stay safe my mates!😊👍🏻😷
What about vinyl flooring, what is the course of action?
@@jolkraeremeark6949, what is underneath the vinyl flooring? Is it a concrete slab or is it conventional framing? This matters. The key to know is what the floor material is and what is under it. If it is a wood floor, no spikes for that regardless of what is underneath it. Vinyl over concrete, carpet over concrete and tile over concrete or straight concrete floors get spikes. In all instances where a sand trap is used, spikes go into the sand trap. Hope this helps.
@@markphilpot8734 it is conventional framing, so wood subfloor under the vinyl.
@@jolkraeremeark6949 , then Mr Remeark, a sand trap with adjustable feet and spikes to go on the stand. The stand needs to be filled completely with dry, filtered sand. Casting resin, acrylic casting resin specifically, can be added to fill all gaps. This offers the best results. Feel free to ask questions for this is how we learn.
I have two pair of those, they are eighty dollars a pair cheaper than at one place where they are two hundred a pair Pays to shop around. Have one pair for mains, one for side surrounds, buying another pair when I get rear surround bookshelves. All B&W 700 and six hundred series, these look like b&w stands, love em.
Any leads on cheapest place to find them?
Imagine you forget you put sand in them and start dismantling them.. I know I am capable of such stupidity 😛
Oh man, that would be bad.
Yeah man....ain't that a beach!
Great video! I have two questions: 1) how much sand in lbs do you think I should get for 2x of these stands? 2) Do you recommend using the carpet spikes if I am placing these on a rug? They dont seem to stick very far into a woven rug vs. a tufted carpet. Thanks!
Hey Kyle, I’m not sure how much sand are used. I had some leftover sand in a 5 gallon bucket more than likely if you picked up a bag of sand from Lowe’s that would be sufficient it’s not that much.
I have always used for spikes with regular carpet on top of a cement floor and you can fill the spikes go through the carpet all the way to the cement.
I’ve got the rb61 ll.that’s why I got these stands
Great video as always Michael. As mentioned it's a bit of a shame there is no cable management. But you could always drill a hole, top and bottom of one of the tubes and feed the speaker wire through.
Problem with drilling a hole is it’s filled with sand. 👍
@@Youthman
Yeh, that would be the compromise to have the one tube go without.
Great informative video. Thanks for posting this.
Great video those are some quality stands for a very reasonable price great idea on the sand love it
Thanks
What are they like when placing a speaker 300mm (L) x 180mm (W) l wonder? Will it matter that the speaker will overhang the top plate ?
Those look nice.
How do you like the 61 ii’s btw??? was thinking of getting a pair
Hey Youthman! Big fan.. Was wondering, do you think two of these would be able to hold a Klipsch 504C? Ive had a lot of difficulty finding a stand for it cause of how deep it is. Let me know when you can. Thanks !
Great stands, especially when filled. What would you recommend, the Rotel RMB 1585 or the NAD M27? I’m looking to add an amp to my Marantz 8012 and eventually go to real separates.
Depends on what better fits your set up. Do you want here 20 Watts of difference between the two amplifiers. Do you need 5 or 7 channels? What better fits your budget.
Great video! I just ordered these from eBay for my Kef R3s. Greetings from Norway.
Hope you enjoy them
I have a small home theater room. ( 12ft x 12ft ) what is the best way to mount bookshelf speakers on the walls for 5.2.2 Dolby Atmos Surround Sound ?
Hi. THANKS for the video!! I have the same Klipsch 61 speakers. Did you notice any discernible difference in sound when mounting these on stand (w/sand) VS> what you had before? Thanks again!!
Great unboxing video!
Thanks Steve
I wonder if these would actually support up to 75 pounds like they claim? I just blew my whole budget on some Arendal 1723 THX Monitors and now I need some inexpensive stands lol.
Same for me but with S series monitors! Did you ever end up trying out these stands with yours?
@@randleton_ I purchased the stands and assembled them but when my speakers got here I decided to not even try and put them on the stands. I just felt like the speakers were way too big and heavy to risk it. I'm using 2 HSU vtf-15h mk2 subwoofers as my "speaker stands" for now lol.
@@Brian.M Thanks for letting me know! I was thinking of the same idea but it will probably be a while until I can get identical dual subs lol. Guess I'll still be on the look out for some stands.
@@randleton_ No problem, good luck to you man!
i'd honestly say 75 pounds is a little conservative - i myself weigh around 145 pounds and had to sit on one of mine for a moment
it took the weight like a champ
Great informative video lots of details..
Great review !!!! Do you know if they can hold speakers up to 42 lbs (Arendal 1723 monitor S) ? Thank you so much!!!!
How much do they weigh with the sand?
Great Video as always. I wanted to ask a quick question about auddessy, So I have a PC2000 connected to an Onkyo tx sr608. Recently I was able to connect a denon 4500h, run audessy and the subwoofer came alive. Man, I couldn't believe my ears, the room was literally throbbing from the amount of bass. Sadly the 4500h had to be returned and I was back to the anemic bass from the 608tsx. What could be the reason as to why the bass is so poor compared to the 4500h? Thanks for all that you do, you're channel reignited my passion for audio.
Check to see if your crossovers were set the same in each AVR. Also the Denon might have had Dynamic EQ ON and the Onkyo has it turned off.
@@Youthman Thanks for taking the time to reply, did audyssey change how it works, from 2EQ to multiEQ XT32 I took REW measurements and what's weird is that the curve looks completely different. I thought audyssey would measure the exact same way
XT32 is a much better version than the lower end versions.
what is the best size ( 24, 28, 32) to buy???
I read that filling sand completely makes the speaker sound dead. Some prefer filling halfway or even 3/4th.
I’m not sure how Placing a bookshelf speaker on speaker stands that are completely solid vs half full would make a difference. We place bookshelf speakers on entertainment centers and other solid surfaces all of the time with no issues
@@Youthman This is what found on dynaudio site on how much sand “In principle, you should add as much weight as possible. However, you can add too much and change the centre of gravity - making it more prone to falling over. We usually recommend 2/3 full, which is the industry rule of thumb."
Personally i plan to follow this 2/3rd rule. If stand still rings at that point, top it off until ringing goes away
Ok that makes sense as that is physics. Saying filling it up to the top makes a speaker sound dead didn’t make any sense.
Youthman It seems analogous to adding too much room treatments. Anyway it seems best to experiment with sand levels and decide what sounds best
That’s a very different issue. Sound leaves your speakers and reflects off your walls. Not sure how too much sand can change that.
Nice stands
I filled my stands to the very top and used black tape to cover the holes
That works too
If you have pets, or kids, how do you keep the speakers from being knocked off the stands?
You probably don’t. I had floorstanding speakers when my children were small.
Has anyone tried using expanding foam to fill uprights?
I need to figure out what height I need to put the tweeters at ear level when seated. In your opinion, (assuming you couldn't find the perfect height) is it better for the tweeter to be higher or lower than your ears?
If I could not get them perfect to my ears, I would rather have them slightly higher than lower
I am 6' tall. I am going to make a pair of stands at (near) ear level standing up...(since I do most of my listening while cooking/in the kitchen)....Maybe 5' high angled up. I will let you know how it works...
Are you better off using Kitty litter instead of sand???? To avoid moisture...
I have heard of people using kitty litter. Should be fine
Will you get the same result if you stuff it with poly fil?
No
I have the 24" stands. I didn't bother filling them with anything. They are really sturdy and they weigh about 20 lbs with nothing in them. I move them around quite a bit so the extra weight just doesn't seem worth it to me.
20lbs are for 1 stand or 2?
@@teltunes6128 Each stand weighs about 20lbs.
well but the question is.... whether the sand was branded or noname?
Are these sturdy on carpet? I’m considering buying for Kanto YU4
Yes, I have them on carpet now.
Florida ? Awesome , I went to Disney in Orlando , it was great
Sweet! I haven’t been to Disney in years.
Youthman, just curious? Are the legs supposed to be filled with sand or did you choose to do this on your own?
As mentioned in the video, most choose to fill them with sand, lead shot or kitty litter. If not, they will resonate when playing music (which is not a good thing).
@@Youthman Are there speaker stands out there that are made solid to prevent this or are they always manafactured hollow?
Honestly I’m not certain. There might be a company that makes a solid steel speaker stand but that would be extremely heavy, I would be very expensive. Making them hollow and allowing users to fill the space with their own material is a lot cheaper for the brand and for the consumer. Sand is $5 a bag
great video
Thank you Cruise
Seems pretty straightforward....
God bless you have a great day
Previous sand from a hurricane, is something being from MN you would never say. lol
LOL we get them here every year. Several years ago we had a really bad one coming this way. It was the size of Florida. We picked up a lot of sandbags to put outside the door to prevent flooding inside the house
I need to fill my speaker stands with sand. Only thing is i need to put the sand in plastic sandwich bags so that it doesn't pour out the cable routing hole at the bottom of the posts on my vivo stands.
Good idea
no more Hit That Subscribed!!? lol
Changing it up
you dont get sand leaking out ?
No sand has leaked.
At least it's better than catching the speaker and the sofa back
Or one can just keep them on wooden closet
It's mistake to filling up the stands to the top. You are killing the sound.
No different than placing them on a table that is solid. The only negative of filling them all the way to the top is you place the center of gravity higher which could potentially lead to them tipping over more easily. Has nothing to do with sound
If you need slightly taller stands like I did, these 36" models from Rockville are fantastic for the money:
www.rockvilleaudio.com/rhtsc/?gclid=CjwKCAjwnef6BRAgEiwAgv8mQaFb71ZWicUs3MBZ9Bly5EEsywHQTbaKyxoYjG_IUQlHLhprsUrkTBoCNXAQAvD_BwE
They are sand fillable as well. I used four of these for my casual setup in the living room and they look great.
Those look nice as well
"$55 each". In may 2023, they are %79.99. Thanks, inflation!
Along with everything else in the world.
Hi God bless you i never win nothing but the only win is the have free RUclips and have great amazing video and this is my great price God bless you all of you are great amazing awesome person's
Thank you and good luck
A stand that is insignificant in build quality is a disaster waiting to happen. Sealing the bases of each of these columns is critical for this stand. The use of only filtered, screened and clean sand is not a question, it is a requirement. You may think it extreme to torque each fastener rather than just hand tighten it. This is how aircraft and missiles are assembled. Mediocre assembly is as bad as mediocre products. Each must choose his/her own path. Each fastener has a torque spec/range. Uniform tightness assures the fastener is not damaged nor is your stand. It’s what you want. Make your choice and roll the dice or choose smart assembly practice. Once your base is near column, seal the bottom of the column with a black silicone caulk. This ensures the sand will not seep out. Take a combination square and square up the edges to for each column. If the columns are wonky looking, that is your fault.Torque to spec and repeat till all columns are attached. The hardest part is over. Air gaps will cause ringing so fill completely each column. The fasteners in the top should be lightly lubricated and put into their threaded holes to final depth prior to sand filling if you plan on using acrylic casting resin to fill any gaps left in the column cavity. This will yield the best results, but not everyone strives for the best performance. Sand can be slow to settle so be sure that the sand is fully settled prior to inserting the resin. The stand will get hot from the resin curing so keep children and pets away from it while this is in progress. Once the resin cures, it is time for the top plate install. The screws inserted into the columns prior to top plate installation will be removed now. The black silicone caulk gets beaded on top of each column. Be careful to use two fasteners to guide each top plate down on the columns. It is advisable to hand tighten each fastener before applying torque to any and do so in a manner much like a wheel on a car. This will achieve an even downward force on all fasteners. Torquing gives consistent results and achieves a best practice job. Wipe any excess caulk off any plate and column surface. To keep messes down, get a buddy to help and share your hobby. Your girlfriend may even be game for this.Sound extreme? Not to prior service tech mechs. You can learn a lot from military service. Stay safe my mates!😊👍🏻😷
Nothing wrong with your method. I’m still enjoying them the way I set them up.
@@Youthman, I’m not here to kick your way. Just think if people want highest possible results, effort must be exerted. This method I use will separate the great speakers from the chaff. In my work, there is no second place finishes. It’s full bore, hardcore or sit on the porch. It was how I made my living in the past and it still holds true today. Press on sir! Your not far from the real. Keep pressing on and up!
I absolutely appreciate the info for those that would be interested in going the extra mile. It simply isn’t something I myself would do for a $900 bookshelf system when it sounds fantastic like it is.