This exactly what i like with DIY tutorials: any viewer can take the idea and tweak it with personnal preferences. And this is definitively what i am planning to do. Thanks for the video.
one thing you may want to consider is wood glue one the inside as opposed to caulk. It WILL take longer but it is stronger. You do not omit screws for wood glue, you add them in conjunction. You may also add caulk on the outside if you wish for added security. I will likely build some of these using dove tails and wood stain. But to those not at that level, this is a good introduction video.
If you actually want a SEALED box, you want to use silicone on the inside edges, with liberally applied wood glue to join. For obviously reasons, it is a superior product for creating air tight seals.
A glue made specifically for wood joinery like Titebond is going to make a stronger initial joints. But as a furniture and custom cabinet maker, I wouldn't use if here, for a few reasons. One, unless you strip the screws or split the wood on the column, screws and caulking are going to be plenty strong enough, so shouldn't be an issue there. But the main issue is in this application sound vibration dampening should be a high priority. And a silicone caulk is going to be vastly superior for that. And the same properties of elasticity that make it suited for that will also give more flex in the joint to help keep the screws from backing out when the wood shrinks in dry winter months, especially when subjected to hours and hours of vibration when using the speakers. Personally I'd pick a caulk with a higher silicone content like OSI Quad because it has even more elasticity and actually bonds pretty well just wood-to-wood without screws, but that's only a tiny improvement.
Just FYI the materials list has 2x the material needed. Onl y need (2) 1x6x8 and (2) 1x4x8. Just built these yesterday. Great idea and seem sto work well!
Small tip: If you have a random orbit sander, use that to sand the exterior joints on the column during the sand filling process. Kills two birds with one stone, finishes the joints and the vibration will help pack the sand, reducing air gaps/settling and improving dampening.
Prime all the wood and lightly sand before assembling and the caulk will have a better surface to bond to. Prime again before topcoat and you'll get a better finish.
I am thinking going with big pvc pipe and sand, but not sure how yet and if i’ll find a way to fix wood pannels on both end, but if i do i could use 4 legged stands
Even some very expensive stands you can buy online suck--they're not especially secure and can be tipped over with a hard bump--so that's an added bonus to this DIY. For a lot less money, thanks to this video, I can get much better stands. I would not build shims in, though; I'd rather use separate shims on the bottom, as built in shims will actually be useless, or even a hindrance, if you move to a different studio location.
I really like your design here, even though I think 50 pounds of sand might be a bit excessive lol I'm no professional woodworker but I've done my share of projects with MDF to know that even if you're using self-drilling screws (which is what it looks like you might be using), you should still pre-drill at least the MDF because if you don't it can cause it to crack. Granted, these stands are going to be stationary and relatively non-load-bearing aside from all the sand, but it's just something to keep in mind. Also a counter-sink bit would help you get those screws further below the surface so you can fill those holes better and get an even cleaner look. Great project overall.
Yeah from what i have read, the heavier the better when it comes to de-coupling. So yes if i was putting screws through the side of MDF, absolutely you would want to pre-drill. These construction screws are self tapping and never split the wood even on thin pine 1/2in boards. Thanks for watching!
Chuck Costello Yeah, MDF isn't as durable as plywood or solid wood,but when it comes to resonance it is considerably more inert than plywood or wood. A simple rap of the knuckles on all 3 makes it obvious which is best. Not to mention the smooth surface and ease of sanding if you are only looking to paint it.
Suresh Raja - you still happy with these? I’m about to build some monitor stands and I’m still still deciding on the exact design. Any weaknesses in this setup that you’ve found over the past year? I had some that I made with 3” PVC pipe as the riser which worked pretty well, but I’m considering changing it up this time.
Looks nice but I'd probably use wood glue for real strength to join the planks, then seal off the inner corners with caulking anyway in case of leakage.
Hey, man. Great video. Can you tell me where those decoupling spikes go, please? Are they mounted to the bottom of the speakers or to the bottom of the stands?
Is it best to sit the speaker directly over the stands or let's say a different density material such as Rock Wool over the DIY stands or maybe even ISO Acoustics over that?
I bought *concerete blocks* from home depot. *25lbs* each and when you buy two thats 50lbs. 8x6x16 is the measurements. 32" height is perfect. Cost? :)) $1.25 each. So for $6 you have your stands and can be painted of course and figure out dampening foam or material...
@@gregorycollins3096 I am about to move and sold every thing. But if you go to Lowes or Home Depot etc you can figure it out. It may not fit in a nice living room furniture set up but for business,garage, mens cave... the cost is nothing
Cool vid if your the DIY type, if like me your not you can get basically this stand already built from Rockville on Amazon for $80.00, then buy some sand and fill em up and your done.
Filling those stands 3/4 s would be better so they do not get top heavy and fall over if knocked. If you do not have kids this will not be a problem they wont get touched or knocked over .
yeah I have a 5 month girl, and i'm trying to make stands that are child proof... my back speakers are 11kg, and they are near the couch and you walk around them a lot... and when she is older, she could climb onto them from the couch...30kg falling down can do a lot of damage to small bones i'd imagine. I might have to use one screw for more security... its hardwood underneath so it would be criminal, but safety first. Another option is to make them as low as possible and make a bit different design to fill only the base with like 20kg of sand... that would probably be tip proof
Save yourself time building and trying to get something level by using tube steel beam. They sell it in various sizes(I like the one thats 4x4 size) and you can get it cut perfect lengths when you buy it, then all you have to do is sit the tube on a bottom/top plate(.25" sheet steel works well) on the ground, make a quick spot weld and check your level up top, if it looks fine complete the weld, flip it and do the same thing for the top plate. I then drill a hole in the center of the top big enough to fit a funnel into and fill with DRY sand almost to the top. I then use a little bit of expanding insualation foam sprayed into that hole until it fills the top of the cavity and comes out of the hole, let this harden and level it off with a knife/sandpaper(this seals all of the sand inside). I like to drill a smaller hole on that same top plate that lies just on the backside of the steel tube, use this to route speaker wires through(you can use a black wire channel with a sticky backing attached to the steel beam for a clean look, stuff is cheap on amazon)
For strength yes, but i find that i still get small holes or gaps even with wood glue, so i went with the caulk. Its been 3 years with no structure issues or sand leaking so it still worked out!
13:59 PLEASE HELP ME ! My englisch is not so perfect... please can you say me for what it this folden peace of paper in it ??? i dont understand it -.- respect for this work !! you inspiring me a lot !! the only question i have is for what is this peace of foldn paper ? :/
Arman Srsa - I’m pretty sure he uses the piece of wood on the floor, so that if he found it to be out of level, he could use some shims to make it level before he checks the level of his stands. You wouldn’t be able to do that if you we’re just using the floor. He’s also on hardwood floors, which are sometimes slightly uneven and could throw the level off. I’m assuming the floor/wood was already level, so he didn’t have to include the shimming step, although he should have mentioned it.
I'm not sure if I will trust my speakers on these stands. I know it's costly get a router so you can create stronger joints, but it is needed in this case especially if your speakers cost a fortune.
The supply list has (4) 1"x4"x8' This would be enough for 4 speaker stands as each speaker stand is made by cutting (1) 1"x4"x8' in half... The wood list should read (2) 1"x4"x8' & (2) 1"x6"x8'
I have never felt comfortable with the decoupling of the speakers from the stands, for me it is better to pair them to allow you to download and eliminate the vibrations towards the floor.
Hey bud great video, I will be building these very soon. I have a question, why did you use pine? Can a pressure treated wood be used? Is there a specific reason for using pine? thank you for the info.
I was considering to make a set from plywood....but after watching they video, I will use pine (cheap and already cut to width/less cutting). One responder said that hardwood would be better......I think since you are using sand the wood type really would not make a difference (however, I would not use MDF for bottom or top...I would use pine or a nice grade of plywood). I am not an acoustics engineer...but I dabble in woodworking (PS: I think the sand is a good idea).
You probably have to split the sand bags open dry out the sand in the sun for a few days before you use it in your stands, there's typically moisture in the sand bags.
Spikes don't decouple shit ! They just concentrate the vibrations to specific points. They are only usefull if you THEN absorbe the vibration they transmit.
Even though you were kidding...I will answer your post. The issue with this would be the rubber allowing the speaker to move back and forth during high energy transients. As the woofer extended, the speaker would actually push itself off axis, making things muddy. Some speakers want heavy stands...others are designed for light. But every speaker needs super rigid mounts to sound their best. (Even electrostats) HANDMF (Have A Nice Day My Friend)
That’s a nice opinion but I’ve had these stands for three years now, they hold up 2 very heavy speakers, haven’t moved, cracked, or have had any mechanical issues so I’ll stick with what I said in the video
@@TrueSoundTV How high did you make them (and why...as I listen to my music half the time sitting down and half the time while cooking)? Did you consider tilting them upward (a bit)? Did you find that the sand made a discernible difference (compared to your previous setup)? THANKS for the video!!
Good info but that felt like torture sitting through the incredibly slow moving dialogue.. slowly stating every word with a heavy dose of "you know", "kinda sometimes", "ummm" and just beating it to death with the unnecessary filler and being sooooo slow to reach simple points. I understand if you feel important when you are trying to explain things but this video probably could have been cut in half if you had more effective dialogue.
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
This exactly what i like with DIY tutorials: any viewer can take the idea and tweak it with personnal preferences. And this is definitively what i am planning to do. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching!!!!
one thing you may want to consider is wood glue one the inside as opposed to caulk. It WILL take longer but it is stronger. You do not omit screws for wood glue, you add them in conjunction. You may also add caulk on the outside if you wish for added security. I will likely build some of these using dove tails and wood stain. But to those not at that level, this is a good introduction video.
gorilla poly glue to fill the gaps
I was gonna point out the same thing but you hit the nail on the. head
If you actually want a SEALED box, you want to use silicone on the inside edges, with liberally applied wood glue to join.
For obviously reasons, it is a superior product for creating air tight seals.
A glue made specifically for wood joinery like Titebond is going to make a stronger initial joints. But as a furniture and custom cabinet maker, I wouldn't use if here, for a few reasons. One, unless you strip the screws or split the wood on the column, screws and caulking are going to be plenty strong enough, so shouldn't be an issue there. But the main issue is in this application sound vibration dampening should be a high priority. And a silicone caulk is going to be vastly superior for that. And the same properties of elasticity that make it suited for that will also give more flex in the joint to help keep the screws from backing out when the wood shrinks in dry winter months, especially when subjected to hours and hours of vibration when using the speakers. Personally I'd pick a caulk with a higher silicone content like OSI Quad because it has even more elasticity and actually bonds pretty well just wood-to-wood without screws, but that's only a tiny improvement.
Man, that intro kills me every time 😂
I made some of my own. Very good thanks for the tips
Just FYI the materials list has 2x the material needed. Onl y need (2) 1x6x8 and (2) 1x4x8. Just built these yesterday. Great idea and seem sto work well!
Small tip: If you have a random orbit sander, use that to sand the exterior joints on the column during the sand filling process. Kills two birds with one stone, finishes the joints and the vibration will help pack the sand, reducing air gaps/settling and improving dampening.
1:42 spikes by definition COUPLE. Decoupling is what rubberised pads do (Sorbothane etc).
Prime all the wood and lightly sand before assembling and the caulk will have a better surface to bond to. Prime again before topcoat and you'll get a better finish.
I am thinking going with big pvc pipe and sand, but not sure how yet and if i’ll find a way to fix wood pannels on both end, but if i do i could use 4 legged stands
Love these stands. Put these together for my new Elacs. Stained them with espresso
Very nice, that has to look amazing!!! Yeah in my studio they are hidden by my mixing console so i went with some bland black paint ha
What Elac's did you get?
I would have used wood glue instead of caulk but other than that good job!
Even some very expensive stands you can buy online suck--they're not especially secure and can be tipped over with a hard bump--so that's an added bonus to this DIY. For a lot less money, thanks to this video, I can get much better stands. I would not build shims in, though; I'd rather use separate shims on the bottom, as built in shims will actually be useless, or even a hindrance, if you move to a different studio location.
Great idea, thanks 4 sharing
hey brother thanx for the idea 💡 i got a question what did you end up using? as you mentioned you were gonna try spikes and that rubber material
I really like your design here, even though I think 50 pounds of sand might be a bit excessive lol I'm no professional woodworker but I've done my share of projects with MDF to know that even if you're using self-drilling screws (which is what it looks like you might be using), you should still pre-drill at least the MDF because if you don't it can cause it to crack. Granted, these stands are going to be stationary and relatively non-load-bearing aside from all the sand, but it's just something to keep in mind. Also a counter-sink bit would help you get those screws further below the surface so you can fill those holes better and get an even cleaner look. Great project overall.
Yeah from what i have read, the heavier the better when it comes to de-coupling. So yes if i was putting screws through the side of MDF, absolutely you would want to pre-drill. These construction screws are self tapping and never split the wood even on thin pine 1/2in boards. Thanks for watching!
Chuck Costello Yeah, MDF isn't as durable as plywood or solid wood,but when it comes to resonance it is considerably more inert than plywood or wood. A simple rap of the knuckles on all 3 makes it obvious which is best. Not to mention the smooth surface and ease of sanding if you are only looking to paint it.
Infinity's with Polycell tweeters? Hell yeah!
Haha yes they are!
Amazing tips... We're gonna try this in one of our studios
Can you put links to the rubber and spikes?
I replicated this exactly and got myself a great speaker stand that costed about $50 for a pair.
Awesome, Thanks for watching
champer slimmerthannone one pair for $50. Used cheaper materials.
Suresh Raja - you still happy with these? I’m about to build some monitor stands and I’m still still deciding on the exact design. Any weaknesses in this setup that you’ve found over the past year? I had some that I made with 3” PVC pipe as the riser which worked pretty well, but I’m considering changing it up this time.
A very good Idea that I and tried and I really works.
Looks nice but I'd probably use wood glue for real strength to join the planks, then seal off the inner corners with caulking anyway in case of leakage.
Hey, man. Great video. Can you tell me where those decoupling spikes go, please? Are they mounted to the bottom of the speakers or to the bottom of the stands?
The go on the bottom of the stands.
Thanks.
Is it best to sit the speaker directly over the stands or let's say a different density material such as Rock Wool over the DIY stands or maybe even ISO Acoustics over that?
I bought *concerete blocks* from home depot. *25lbs* each and when you buy two thats 50lbs. 8x6x16 is the measurements. 32" height is perfect. Cost? :)) $1.25 each. So for $6 you have your stands and can be painted of course and figure out dampening foam or material...
Do you have a picture?
@@gregorycollins3096 I am about to move and sold every thing. But if you go to Lowes or Home Depot etc you can figure it out. It may not fit in a nice living room furniture set up but for business,garage, mens cave... the cost is nothing
That's actually a good idea.....
Cool vid if your the DIY type, if like me your not you can get basically this stand already built from Rockville on Amazon for $80.00, then buy some sand and fill em up and your done.
Saludos desde Costa Rica me gusta tu trabajo me da buenas ideas gracias
More simple is to buy a metal table feet, 2 pcs of pal and 5 screws. It will look better and is easy to do.
Great Video 🎧⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Filling those stands 3/4 s would be better so they do not get top heavy and fall over if knocked.
If you do not have kids this will not be a problem they wont get touched or knocked over .
yeah I have a 5 month girl, and i'm trying to make stands that are child proof... my back speakers are 11kg, and they are near the couch and you walk around them a lot... and when she is older, she could climb onto them from the couch...30kg falling down can do a lot of damage to small bones i'd imagine.
I might have to use one screw for more security... its hardwood underneath so it would be criminal, but safety first.
Another option is to make them as low as possible and make a bit different design to fill only the base with like 20kg of sand... that would probably be tip proof
Glue would have been an excellent choice!
Great video. What type of sand do you recommend and I also have a set of B&W speaker stands
Save yourself time building and trying to get something level by using tube steel beam. They sell it in various sizes(I like the one thats 4x4 size) and you can get it cut perfect lengths when you buy it, then all you have to do is sit the tube on a bottom/top plate(.25" sheet steel works well) on the ground, make a quick spot weld and check your level up top, if it looks fine complete the weld, flip it and do the same thing for the top plate. I then drill a hole in the center of the top big enough to fit a funnel into and fill with DRY sand almost to the top. I then use a little bit of expanding insualation foam sprayed into that hole until it fills the top of the cavity and comes out of the hole, let this harden and level it off with a knife/sandpaper(this seals all of the sand inside). I like to drill a smaller hole on that same top plate that lies just on the backside of the steel tube, use this to route speaker wires through(you can use a black wire channel with a sticky backing attached to the steel beam for a clean look, stuff is cheap on amazon)
Is that a drum hanging from the ceiling ???
You know, wood glue is a much better and more logical option for wood, than caulking. Just saying....
For strength yes, but i find that i still get small holes or gaps even with wood glue, so i went with the caulk. Its been 3 years with no structure issues or sand leaking so it still worked out!
this is great
could you use pea gravel instead of sand? Don't have to worry about it leaking out as much maybe.
We want to see measurement data before and after! Until then they’re just for decoration!
Price for all parts ?
13:59 PLEASE HELP ME !
My englisch is not so perfect... please can you say me for what it this folden peace of paper in it ???
i dont understand it -.-
respect for this work !! you inspiring me a lot !! the only question i have is for what is this peace of foldn paper ? :/
It was used to keep the stand balanced all around. One side was leaning so he added the paper to level. Hope this helped
Thanks guys
Any ideas for raising a pair of heavy loud speakers. Approx 3 feet by 2 feet?
Is there any good reason why I shouldn't use a stack of toilet rolls? Wouldn't they absorb any vibration and resonance? I'm not joking.
I would cover the top grain of wood with masking tape before filling the sand.
Great video. What did you ended up using for additional decoupling between spikes, rubber and carpet?
I ended up using the spikes!!! They had the least amount of vibration transfer
How did you hide the speaker wire? Also do you have a link to the spikes you used for them?
One thing to note is that spikes are for coupling, not decoupling.
Can you tell me what you mean with that?
Just a french woodworker "proverb" : It’s not the sticky glue that sticks, it’s the glue that pushes the sticky glue that sticks
@10:40 you use a piece of wood on the floor and check the level of the wood. Why? Isnt the floor level? Couldnt you just check the level of the floor?
Arman Srsa - I’m pretty sure he uses the piece of wood on the floor, so that if he found it to be out of level, he could use some shims to make it level before he checks the level of his stands. You wouldn’t be able to do that if you we’re just using the floor. He’s also on hardwood floors, which are sometimes slightly uneven and could throw the level off. I’m assuming the floor/wood was already level, so he didn’t have to include the shimming step, although he should have mentioned it.
Nice job..... well done
I'm not sure if I will trust my speakers on these stands. I know it's costly get a router so you can create stronger joints, but it is needed in this case especially if your speakers cost a fortune.
great stuff as always
Thank you thank you!
GREAT
Great but use wood glue next time
How do i know when I`m cocking it too much ?
when too much of it oozes when you add screws. a bit ooze is normal.
Haha this was too easy
When white squirts erratically
The supply list has (4) 1"x4"x8' This would be enough for 4 speaker stands as each speaker stand is made by cutting (1) 1"x4"x8' in half... The wood list should read (2) 1"x4"x8' & (2) 1"x6"x8'
I have never felt comfortable with the decoupling of the speakers from the stands, for me it is better to pair them to allow you to download and eliminate the vibrations towards the floor.
Would these be able to hold up some 10s Speakers?
Did they make a difference??
Hey bud great video, I will be building these very soon. I have a question, why did you use pine? Can a pressure treated wood be used? Is there a specific reason for using pine? thank you for the info.
I can answer that for you as I have built a bed frame with head and foot boards and an entertainment cabinet all from pine. Two words, it's cheap!
hardwood would be preferable but pine is cheap
I was considering to make a set from plywood....but after watching they video, I will use pine (cheap and already cut to width/less cutting). One responder said that hardwood would be better......I think since you are using sand the wood type really would not make a difference (however, I would not use MDF for bottom or top...I would use pine or a nice grade of plywood). I am not an acoustics engineer...but I dabble in woodworking (PS: I think the sand is a good idea).
You probably have to split the sand bags open dry out the sand in the sun for a few days before you use it in your stands, there's typically moisture in the sand bags.
Wouldn't the speakers still revererb the top plates?
Then you could use isolation pads
Your voice sounds so much like Saul from Breaking bad / Better call Saul!
Spikes don't decouple shit ! They just concentrate the vibrations to specific points. They are only usefull if you THEN absorbe the vibration they transmit.
Why not just use some gravel? That won't go thru anything so not necessary to make these perfect seals.
Wood is so expensive now it’s cheaper to drop $200 on a set in stands. I almost built some yesterday and the total was over $200 so..
Great tutorial, but I could make a drinking game around the amount of times you say "go ahead".
MDF is not wood bro. its a paper but squashed in with big preasure. I`m upgrade my studio, advice to mixing people music? peace from Poland.
Wood glue not caulk, blocks top & bottom
decent idea. your woodworking skills are another story...lol. good idea though.
Thanks lol but I built these with minimal tools so that it seams more doable to those who don’t have a full wood working shop and all necessary tools.
I'm shure if you take a 12 inch wheel from a wheelbarrow and make a stand with it will cut sound beter than sand.
Even though you were kidding...I will answer your post.
The issue with this would be the rubber allowing the speaker to move back and forth during high energy transients.
As the woofer extended, the speaker would actually push itself off axis, making things muddy.
Some speakers want heavy stands...others are designed for light. But every speaker needs super rigid mounts to sound their best. (Even electrostats)
HANDMF
(Have A Nice Day My Friend)
" Mr Sandman lend me your ear"?
Using caulking is the wrong approach and adds almost zero strength to the joint. Like the previous poster said, wood glue only.
That’s a nice opinion but I’ve had these stands for three years now, they hold up 2 very heavy speakers, haven’t moved, cracked, or have had any mechanical issues so I’ll stick with what I said in the video
@@TrueSoundTV How high did you make them (and why...as I listen to my music half the time sitting down and half the time while cooking)? Did you consider tilting them upward (a bit)? Did you find that the sand made a discernible difference (compared to your previous setup)? THANKS for the video!!
Sand needs to be dry.
Poor Boy. No Table!
Why would you need 4 1x6x8’ and 4 1x4x8’ when you have 8 pieces that are roughly 37-38” long? You on need 2 of each duh! Lol 😂
Yup I messed that up!
You want to be using silver sand, not actual beach sand 😆
Good info but that felt like torture sitting through the incredibly slow moving dialogue.. slowly stating every word with a heavy dose of "you know", "kinda sometimes", "ummm" and just beating it to death with the unnecessary filler and being sooooo slow to reach simple points. I understand if you feel important when you are trying to explain things but this video probably could have been cut in half if you had more effective dialogue.
You have nice teeth.
Жопарукий😂 мастер