Your craftsmanship is impeccable, And the quality of your videos are amazing Love To watch them over and over again keep up the great work and thank you for being on RUclips 👍
You are an amazing worker my friend. I have watched several of your videos, and the clarity (and the choice of not using mind-numbing noise as "music") makes your videos very informative and most enjoyable. The fact that you do everything by hand is proof of your talent and determination. Making planes is no easy task by any means, so you have my deepest respect. Warm greetings from France.
@@StavrosGakos Thank you for your kind reply my friend. I think that Poland is a very beautiful country, and the Polish are a very fine people. God bless. Take good care. I will continue watching your videos- they are very interesting.
Panie Stavros, kolejne gratulacje. Perfekcja. To już kolejny projekt na którym wchodzi Pan już na wyższy etap wykonawstwa, czyli stolarstwo - a miejscami i ślusarstwo - precyzyjne. No bo takie maleństwa wykonać, tak precyzyjnie, to tylko mistrz potrafi.
I love the mouth adjustment. I did a couple of planes that incorporated this self same adjuster only using wedge arrangement. One in wood and another with brass. The one that has the brass was made of paduke and was a gift to a friend and coworker. Paduke, macasser ebony, brass and my own A2 tool steel. Beautiful work brother. So please be safe. We lost my wife’s father not long ago to Covid. So please keep her in your prayers.
9:35 - That's a really nice touch, adding the original maker's mark. 11:47 - And you have an excellent sense of form / shape / sculpture 21:00 - Sounds right. Good shavings. Beautiful surface. Success ! Thanks ! I really enjoyed this video :-)
This is my another planemaking experiment - mitre plane with high cutting angle. 48 degrees cutting angle helps to say goodbye to most tearouts :) I hope you will like it. At the end of the video i pick up the winner of adjusting hammer. Congratulations :) Materials: Boxwood Lamintated plane blade Steel lever cup (main shape cutted by laser) Simple screw and knob 4mm thick brass rod Brass screw Boiled linseed oil Tru oil If you have any questions or sugestions just write a comment. Enjoy!
Im not into woodworking[im not making stuff] but this! this just fills your eyes with pure smooth color wood surface, sharp corners and angles, and just joy to watch and see, I can be honest, I envy you! [in a good way]
I greatly enjoyed your video. The plane is beautiful. I have a mitre plane of around the same size in boxwood, by Bill Carter, and a nice piece of boxwood which I am just debating using to try making a larger version of Bill's model, if I have the skills to do it without completely ruining such a nice material. Your video has given me inspiration.
Excellent workmanship; it was a pleasure to watch and learn. I'm sure you will get many years of service and pleasure from this tool. Thanks for sharing and best wishes to you. :)
much respect sir , your work is absolutely beautiful ! ,,,, when you blacken the iron to find your high spots . why not just sand it with a piece of sandpaper on the blade ? I did see in one of your videos that you did do that once after smoothing it down with your chisel ...... I've no doubt that there is a reason, you are a craftsman of obvious skill .
Any chance, in the future, you could go over sharpening, maintaining and using what looks to be "chisel scrapers" or "blunt chisels" that I think you are using around the 5:40 mark? You're getting wispy scraper like shavings with it and it doesn't look like a normal chisel end.
Brilliant work. But I don't understand what makes it a "mitre plane." When I saw the title of this video I assumed that you were building a plane for use with a shooting board. Also, what is the purpose of doubling the thickness of the back end of the blade? Finally, why is the design block plane style? I would think that lengthening the bed and adding some sort of tote behind the blade, even just a knob, would greatly increase the user's control. Your craftsmanship is superb.
Thanks! The basic design is mitre plane but as i wrote it was an experiment with higher cutting angle. Double thickness of the blade at the end makes it more comfortable to hold. Regards!
Dzień dobry Stavros! Chciałem Cię zapytać! Kiedy należy usunąć zadziory(grat) podczas ostrzenia? Na drobnym papierze ściernym lub na skórze? Bardzo dziękuję za Twoje filmy! Z poważaniem!
Beautiful, when I saw your Instagram posts I imagined it to be much longer, I'd guessed somewhere between 200 and 300 mm. I was pleasantly surprised when I saw it taking shape. Good shavings!
Dear Stavros, nice work on this plane. I assume that the fore block is to tighten the mouth opening to a minimum and that is what helps to give the fine shavings. That beautiful piece of timber you planed at the end with the crazy radial rays - what is is? Cheers.
Hi , allways a pleasure to watch your precise work on this planes. What about japanese type plane, Stavros?? Next chalenge for you...LOL Thanks for sharing!!
Hi Stavros. Really beautiful plane. I loved the bevels you put on it. If you had a bigger piece of boxwood, what would have been your ideal size for making a mitre plane? Maybe longer? Same width or wider? Also, what was the width of the cutter you made for this plane? Thanks!
You are a true craftsmanship sir! Well done as usual. Watching you is like watching art. But also informative. I've never seen anyone rub on color to find the high spots. Did you color the back of your chisel with a marker to achieve that effect?
It is a wonderful plane, I have found some information about small mitre plane, and you have built it!!! Thank you. Why did you use a brass screw? Do you want to make an angle smaller about 12?
13:32 - dłuto z pilnika? Hartowane czy ostrożnie zeszlifowane? Sądzi Pan, że ostateczne polerowanie dłut/noży strugów powinno odbywać się na skórze czy mechanicznych polerkach/filcach polerskich? Co jest według Pana lepsze i dlaczego?
To dłuto firmy Narrex, w klasie PREMIUM ;) Uważam, że do zwykłej pracy z miękkim drewnem wystarczy odłamanie ostrzyny na osełce skórzanej. Przy struganiu sztorców twardego drewna polerowanie mechaniczne pozwala uzyskać taką ostrość, której nie uzyskamy podczas standardowego polerowania na osełce. Dla przykładu w linku poniżej znajduje się krótki film, na którym strugam sztorc czereśni mechanicznie wypolerowanym nożem: instagram.com/p/B4E6fvkgVYJ/?igshid=13sfpb3ubw9sv Pozdrawiam
@@dariocarafa3788 hello Dario! I don't have one source, i bought it straight from people who had removed them from gardens. I got only small pieces but if you are interested write me an email esortodox @ gmail . com or DM on Instagram 🤟
LAY A RAG OR TOWEL OVER WHEN BREAKING THE HARDENED BLADE. shards of hardened steel are under high stress through the heat treat process and can fly out fast enough to rip through arteries if you are very unlucky. BE SAFE
W takiej konstrukcji nóż dociskany jest tylko w dwóch miejscach? Na początku żaby i pod śrubą? A ja zastanawiałem się czy w strugu z odchylakiem wystarczy prosty klin, który dociska tylko na "garbie" od odchylaka i na początku noża.
@@StavrosGakos ale odchylak nie ma przecież płaszczyzny. Jest "krzywy" żeby można go było docisnąć czyli ma działać jak sprężyna. Prosty klin znajdzie tylko dwa punkty oparcia na odchylaku.
Stavros Gakos Thank you! Very informative video (although I still don’t understand why you need to plane down the back of the wear plate when you re-surface the bottom, seems like you’ve already fit it and after taking off a bit of the bottom of the wear plate you might need to re-cut the angle for chip release)
@@toddlarsen6215 in classic wooden mitre planes to close the mouth you have to take few shavings from the back of mouth closer, after that the mouth closer will go deeper into the slot and will close the mouth again. In my version you have to loose the screw, put the mouth closer down to close the mouth and then make the sole flat again.
Piękny strużek;) nie masz przypadkiem osełki na sprzedaż? bardzo mi ta w filmie zaimponowała, a niestety swego czasu na kornikowo nie zdążyłem zamówić. Pozdrowionka
Beautiful plane - I’d like to try my hand at making something like it. Can you tell me the Latin name of Boxwood? Here in the states we have a couple of species referred to by that common name. One is Box Elder Maple (Acer negundo), and another is privet hedge (Ligustrum vulgare). The small diameter chunk could be either one. Thanks!
Common boxwood /European/ buxus sempervivens . On the other side of the pond you can use caseria praecox wich is referred as boxwood overthere. Very simular use of timber. However if you need the original one please let me know we can do something about it
Tomek wròbel - Thank you! I will look into our local species. After thinking about this for a while, I’ve decided to try hop hornbeam (Ostrya virginiana). This is a very tough diffuse porous hardwood formerly used for such rugged applications as ox yokes and wagon axles. It should work well, and it grows on my land!
@@alecmacleod9147 good luck with your project. Have fun making it and if you going to use your own timber that's even better. I was quite surprised to know you planning to use ligustrum . I never considered it as timber source becouse in my native Poland it only grows to thumb thickness. All the best and show us the end product please.
Tomek wròbel - The notion of using Ligustrum puzzled me too, though here the basal stem does get large enough and looks like what Stavros had in his hand. I live in western Massachusetts where there are large areas of forest and many species of trees, so I have choices. But I really like the density and hardness of the woods Stavros utilizes, and those characteristics tend to be unusual, both naturally and due to invasive diseases. Here, for instance, the native beeches (Fagus grandiflora) are dying due to the European beech bark disease, so access to that wood is limited. Our American Chestnuts and Elms have long ago been hammered by Asian diseases and the Ash is now threatened by the Emerald Ash Borer. We fight hard against the Asian Long-horned beetle, a pest that attacks diffuse porous and sweet wooded trees like Sugar and Red Maples, all the Birches and other lesser species. It’s good to converse with you! I need to get to Poland and see what’s happening in your woodworking community. Thanks again for your responses.
I enjoy that you keep the original blade's mark, it's realy "romantic" Nice plane too, I love that press system Sadly I don't win the hammer :( I must build my own I guess ^^
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
Your craftsmanship is impeccable,
And the quality of your videos are amazing Love To watch them over and over again keep up the great work and thank you for being on RUclips 👍
Watching you work is inspiring, Stavros. Outstanding work as usual!
Thank you :) i appereciate your support 🍻
I really love how you incorporate original makers marks into your builds. Great work as always, and I cant believe you don’t have more subs.
Thank you :)
You are an amazing worker my friend. I have watched several of your videos, and the clarity (and the choice of not using mind-numbing noise as "music") makes your videos very informative and most enjoyable. The fact that you do everything by hand is proof of your talent and determination. Making planes is no easy task by any means, so you have my deepest respect. Warm greetings from France.
Thank you! I really appereciate it :)
Regards from Poland!
@@StavrosGakos Thank you for your kind reply my friend. I think that Poland is a very beautiful country, and the Polish are a very fine people. God bless. Take good care. I will continue watching your videos- they are very interesting.
Panie Stavros, kolejne gratulacje. Perfekcja. To już kolejny projekt na którym wchodzi Pan już na wyższy etap wykonawstwa, czyli stolarstwo - a miejscami i ślusarstwo - precyzyjne. No bo takie maleństwa wykonać, tak precyzyjnie, to tylko mistrz potrafi.
Bardzo dziękuję za miłe słowa, pozdrowienia!
I love the mouth adjustment. I did a couple of planes that incorporated this self same adjuster only using wedge arrangement. One in wood and another with brass. The one that has the brass was made of paduke and was a gift to a friend and coworker. Paduke, macasser ebony, brass and my own A2 tool steel.
Beautiful work brother. So please be safe.
We lost my wife’s father not long ago to Covid. So please keep her in your prayers.
Thanks Ryan! Where can i see your planes? Have you got an instagram profile? Regards!
I wish I could click the thumbs up more than once. Thank you for sharing your wonderful skills with us.
Thanks Jim! I always apperaciete your comments!
9:35 - That's a really nice touch, adding the original maker's mark.
11:47 - And you have an excellent sense of form / shape / sculpture
21:00 - Sounds right. Good shavings. Beautiful surface. Success !
Thanks ! I really enjoyed this video :-)
Hey mate :)
Thank you :)
E
Piękna robota, jak zwykle. Trochę brakowało mi takich filmów, ale najważniejsze że nadal je kręcisz
Dzięki! Kręcę i będę kręcił ;) pozdrowienia
This is my another planemaking experiment - mitre plane with high cutting angle. 48 degrees cutting angle helps to say goodbye to most tearouts :)
I hope you will like it.
At the end of the video i pick up the winner of adjusting hammer. Congratulations :)
Materials: Boxwood Lamintated plane blade
Steel lever cup (main shape cutted by laser)
Simple screw and knob
4mm thick brass rod
Brass screw
Boiled linseed oil
Tru oil
If you have any questions or sugestions just write a comment. Enjoy!
Hey Stavros Gakos why don,t you make a folding pocket knife some people use it for carving
Thats a very pretty plane and sounds great cutting across the wood, great work as always Stavros.
Hey Esteban, i don't need it :) regards
Im not into woodworking[im not making stuff] but this! this just fills your eyes with pure smooth color wood surface, sharp corners and angles, and just joy to watch and see, I can be honest, I envy you! [in a good way]
Thanks a lot :)
Can’t believe this was 4 years ago! Have to come back and rewatch in between new videos.
Nice to hear your voice - it helps us understand the process. One more fine tool from your little shop.
Thanks a lot Karol!
I greatly enjoyed your video. The plane is beautiful. I have a mitre plane of around the same size in boxwood, by Bill Carter, and a nice piece of boxwood which I am just debating using to try making a larger version of Bill's model, if I have the skills to do it without completely ruining such a nice material. Your video has given me inspiration.
Thank you Nick! Do it first in other material. I keep my fingers crossed for your plane :)
And I thought I was the only one needing glasses for that fine detail work! Excellent job again sir-well done!
Thanks Joseph :)
Another beautiful plane, I love watching you make planes. You are very talented.
Thank you!
Excellent workmanship; it was a pleasure to watch and learn. I'm sure you will get many years of service and pleasure from this tool. Thanks for sharing and best wishes to you. :)
Thank you Mark :) all the best for you!
Hands down the best plane maker on RUclips! Amazing end grain shavings. Also I loved that you kept the company name on the blade. Pozdrowienia!
Dzięki Nikos :) pozdrowienia!
Thanks so much for showing the angles used on your layout. Thanks again and have a happy day!
Your welcome John, all the best for you!
👍Bogaty film ...uspokaja jak jakaś terapia. A robota wiadomo jak zawsze na najwyższym poziomie.
Dzięki :) pozdrowienia!
I really like tutorials like this, not very talkative but very awesome and inspire.
God job bro🙏👍
Thanks Sam!
I let out an audible gasp at those tiny spirals of boxwood!
That is impressive work, love the detail, all the way down to the mouth adjustment and finishing champher details. Grea video.
Thanks a lot Steve👍
@@StavrosGakos where do you get your blade cap blanks from Stravos
You should keep those shavings and glue them onto a thin sheet of plastic and make a lampshade
@@stevetobias4890 my buddy cutted it by laser
@@stevetobias4890 i wish to have a time for it :)
much respect sir , your work is absolutely beautiful ! ,,,, when you blacken the iron to find your high spots . why not just sand it with a piece of sandpaper on the blade ? I did see in one of your videos that you did do that once after smoothing it down with your chisel ...... I've no doubt that there is a reason, you are a craftsman of obvious skill .
Hey, thank you! There is no reason - it's just one of the ways to do this 👍
amazing, this will hold up well to wear and tear over the years as well!
I hope :) Thanks!
Beautiful piece of Boxwood. Great build. 👍🏻
Thanks a lot!
A ja się cieszyłem jak wymodelowałem w stali wodzik do odchylaka, a tu tyle docisków wyciąłeś :-) brawo, świetny projekt!
Dzięki! Dociski były wycięte laserem :)
@@StavrosGakos czyli modern Stavros Gakos :-)
Another awesome creation!
I really liked the out come of the lever lock/ adjustment knob.
Thanks a lot :)
Simple work.
Perfect result.
Congratulations.
Thanks Carlos!
Any chance, in the future, you could go over sharpening, maintaining and using what looks to be "chisel scrapers" or "blunt chisels" that I think you are using around the 5:40 mark? You're getting wispy scraper like shavings with it and it doesn't look like a normal chisel end.
Just watch this video
ruclips.net/video/re_bp5Lp0To/видео.html
and remember to subscribe Bill's channel :)
Brilliant work. But I don't understand what makes it a "mitre plane." When I saw the title of this video I assumed that you were building a plane for use with a shooting board. Also, what is the purpose of doubling the thickness of the back end of the blade? Finally, why is the design block plane style? I would think that lengthening the bed and adding some sort of tote behind the blade, even just a knob, would greatly increase the user's control.
Your craftsmanship is superb.
Thanks! The basic design is mitre plane but as i wrote it was an experiment with higher cutting angle. Double thickness of the blade at the end makes it more comfortable to hold. Regards!
Truly fascinating very good video and a splendid work! Thank you
Thanks a lot Matthieu 👍
Another perfect beautiful tool, great work.
Thanks a lot!
Magnifique rabot, très beau travail, comme d'habitude. Merci
Merci :)
Another great instructional video. Thanks for posting
You're welcome, it's my pleasure :)
A new video! I am so excited! Thank you!
Excellent craftsmanship, 👍👍
I learn something new with every one of your videos. Thank you for sharing.
That's my pleasure Tom, thanks!
Such a joy to watch and learn. Thank You Sir !
You're welcome Roland :)
Beautiful wood work, excellent video. Thanks!
Thank you Jeff!
Waw 👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
What a plane
I love planes so much
Dzień dobry Stavros! Chciałem Cię zapytać! Kiedy należy usunąć zadziory(grat) podczas ostrzenia? Na drobnym papierze ściernym lub na skórze? Bardzo dziękuję za Twoje filmy! Z poważaniem!
Witaj, zadzior usuwam na sam koniec ostrzenia. Niedługo zrobię o tym film 🍻
Small plane, big performance!
Beautiful machine Stavros! Congratulations H.Muridan
Thanks a lot Nik!
Beautiful, when I saw your Instagram posts I imagined it to be much longer, I'd guessed somewhere between 200 and 300 mm. I was pleasantly surprised when I saw it taking shape. Good shavings!
I don't have so big boxwood :) Thanks a lot!
Subscribed. You are a great craftsman, love your videos.
Welcome Tom! Thank you :)
Dear Stavros, nice work on this plane. I assume that the fore block is to tighten the mouth opening to a minimum and that is what helps to give the fine shavings. That beautiful piece of timber you planed at the end with the crazy radial rays - what is is? Cheers.
Thanks! It was an ash burl :)
Lavai Stavros, Excellent job, a beautiful and useful piece, chapeau. Alfredo.
PS: I want one of this, lol.
Thanks a lot Alfredo👍 one day i'm gonna make them for sale. Regards!
Excellent work, a really good watch. Thank you. Regards Jim.
Thanks a lot Jim! Regards!
Mr. Stavros, great work.I want to ask, what is boxwood? Could you tell in polish?
Thanks, it's bukszpan
Had to go back to see that the cross pin goes through the lever cap..... Guess that makes sense....
Wspaniałe umiejętności, szacunek panie Gakos 👍
Dzięki bardzo!
Amazing craftmanship! Is there a reason you do not use water or other fluid when sharpening or flattening blades on diamond stones?
Thanks Matthew! I just don't like wet sharpening but you don't have to :) masz polskie korzenie? Pozdrawiam!
An artist at work.
Gorgeous tool. Thank you very much.
Hi , allways a pleasure to watch your precise work on this planes.
What about japanese type plane, Stavros?? Next chalenge for you...LOL
Thanks for sharing!!
Thanks Olivier! I preffer european/american planes so challenge is not accepted, sorry ;) Regards!
Hi Stavros. Really beautiful plane. I loved the bevels you put on it. If you had a bigger piece of boxwood, what would have been your ideal size for making a mitre plane? Maybe longer? Same width or wider? Also, what was the width of the cutter you made for this plane? Thanks!
Hey, i don't remember- i have this plane to my father. 250/60/50mm boxwood piece would be a dream.
Great project and well done all the way says this Canadian.
Thanks a lot Trevor!
Like how u built it from nothing worked well good job.
Thanks a lot!
You are a true craftsmanship sir! Well done as usual. Watching you is like watching art. But also informative. I've never seen anyone rub on color to find the high spots. Did you color the back of your chisel with a marker to achieve that effect?
Thanks! I use marker only to see what part of the blade i should grind off. Regards!
And for flattening the bed ;)
Bardzo dziekuje Stavros!Cekamy na film!
Congratulations to the winner! Another wonderful plane, you truly amaze me with your craftsmanship.
Thank you Robert!
I hope one day to be able to make planes as nice as yours.
Great. Where did you get the counter part that you machined?
Thanks, my buddy cutted it by laser CNC👍
It is a wonderful plane, I have found some information about small mitre plane, and you have built it!!! Thank you. Why did you use a brass screw? Do you want to make an angle smaller about 12?
Thanks Oleg! I use the brass screw because i don't have tha same in steel.. One day for sure! Regards!
No nareszcie ;) wszystko u Ciebie ok? Daj znać na forum ;) swoją drogą strug jak zwykle powala...szacun :)
Dzięki Darek! Bywało lepiej, ale idę dalej :) nie mam czasu na forum, przepraszam. Pozdrowienia!
It’s super nice. Couple of questions though. What is the wood? What is the point of the vertical piece in front of the blade?
Thanks! The wood is boxwood and here you can get the best info about how the mouth closer works: ruclips.net/video/4mfd_YmOI2M/видео.html
13:32 - dłuto z pilnika? Hartowane czy ostrożnie zeszlifowane?
Sądzi Pan, że ostateczne polerowanie dłut/noży strugów powinno odbywać się na skórze czy mechanicznych polerkach/filcach polerskich? Co jest według Pana lepsze i dlaczego?
To dłuto firmy Narrex, w klasie PREMIUM ;)
Uważam, że do zwykłej pracy z miękkim drewnem wystarczy odłamanie ostrzyny na osełce skórzanej.
Przy struganiu sztorców twardego drewna polerowanie mechaniczne pozwala uzyskać taką ostrość, której nie uzyskamy podczas standardowego polerowania na osełce.
Dla przykładu w linku poniżej znajduje się krótki film, na którym strugam sztorc czereśni mechanicznie wypolerowanym nożem:
instagram.com/p/B4E6fvkgVYJ/?igshid=13sfpb3ubw9sv
Pozdrawiam
Very nice boxwood plane, thank you.
I love your craftsmanship, your work is very impressive. What was the wood you planed at the end of the video?
Thanks! It was piece of an ash burl.
Hi Stavros ! All your videos are really amazing ,thanks a lot ! What size is this plane ?
Thanks! I don't remember, sorry :)
I’m curious about your sharpening technique. Sure seems to work though!
I'm big fun of simple sharpening using bench grinder, diamond stone, water sand paper and leather strop. Thats all
Stavros Gakos I meant more specifically your motion. Unconventional motion you use. Almost a sideways sharpening. I like.
@@TheBearGrylz that sideway sharpening leaves the bevel without any vertical scratches, so the blade is sharp very quick.
Great video! What is the black substance you used to mark the bed at 1/3 of the video?
And where do you buy a dozen lever caps?
Thanks! It was an ordinary marker:) My buddy cutted it by laser. Regards!
@@StavrosGakos a simple marker... I am so overthinking stuff sometimes! Thanks.
Nice job, really.
My respect.
Thank you Al!
Where do you get such a large supply of boxwood? I look all over the place but I only find the fake stuff. Would you be willing to sell some of yours?
@@dariocarafa3788 hello Dario! I don't have one source, i bought it straight from people who had removed them from gardens. I got only small pieces but if you are interested write me an email esortodox @ gmail . com or DM on Instagram 🤟
Amazing work! Now make a keychain sized one! 😁
Excellent!!! Well done.
Thanks!
15:30 I didn't expect you to grind off the dicey edge!
It is one of the ways to get flat back in quick time
LAY A RAG OR TOWEL OVER WHEN BREAKING THE HARDENED BLADE. shards of hardened steel are under high stress through the heat treat process and can fly out fast enough to rip through arteries if you are very unlucky. BE SAFE
W takiej konstrukcji nóż dociskany jest tylko w dwóch miejscach? Na początku żaby i pod śrubą? A ja zastanawiałem się czy w strugu z odchylakiem wystarczy prosty klin, który dociska tylko na "garbie" od odchylaka i na początku noża.
Tak, tylko w dwóch miejscach. Drewniany klin powinien dolegać całą powierzchnią tylko do odchylaka.
@@StavrosGakos ale odchylak nie ma przecież płaszczyzny. Jest "krzywy" żeby można go było docisnąć czyli ma działać jak sprężyna. Prosty klin znajdzie tylko dwa punkty oparcia na odchylaku.
@@Umciu jest wygięty a czasem zeszlifowany tylko na dole, płaszczyzna którą miałem na myśli znajduje się powyżej tego wygięcia.
Ale jak to tak bez subtitles? ;) czy możesz napisać gradacje podczas ostrzenia. I czym była ta płyta ścierna na końcu?dzieki.
Nie mam czasu na subtitles :) szlifierka stołowa, osełka diamentowa 400, osełka diamentowa 1000, papier wodny 2000 i osełka skórzana
@@StavrosGakos dzięki
great work as always!
Thanks a lot!
Excellent video! Thank you
Thanks Bryan!
Beautiful work as usual my friend!!! What camera and editing software do you use for your videos?
Thank you! I use huawei p20 and hitfilm Express, thats all :)
Is the vertical block functioning as some sort of adjustable mouth?
Hey, not exactly. It helps close the mouth after flattening the sole. Check this video:
ruclips.net/video/4mfd_YmOI2M/видео.html
Awesome and beautiful. I don’t understand the reason for the adjustable wear plate though, can you elaborate? Jealous of the winner 😁
Thanks Todd! Just watch this video ruclips.net/video/4mfd_YmOI2M/видео.html
Stavros Gakos Thank you! Very informative video (although I still don’t understand why you need to plane down the back of the wear plate when you re-surface the bottom, seems like you’ve already fit it and after taking off a bit of the bottom of the wear plate you might need to re-cut the angle for chip release)
@@toddlarsen6215 in classic wooden mitre planes to close the mouth you have to take few shavings from the back of mouth closer, after that the mouth closer will go deeper into the slot and will close the mouth again. In my version you have to loose the screw, put the mouth closer down to close the mouth and then make the sole flat again.
Добрый день, что за дерево, дуб ?
Вишня годится для этого?
To bukszpan, Wiśnia może się okazać trochę za mało twarda.
Mistrzu jaki strug polecasz dla początkującego
Jeden strug nie zastąpi kilku, wszystko :zależy od tego, co zamierzasz nim robić :)
Very nice work sir.
Thanks a lot!
Awesome work
Thanks!
Piękny strużek;) nie masz przypadkiem osełki na sprzedaż? bardzo mi ta w filmie zaimponowała, a niestety swego czasu na kornikowo nie zdążyłem zamówić. Pozdrowionka
Dzięki! Niestety już nie robię osełek. Poszukaj na allegro skóry bydlęcej 3mm, poradzisz sobie :)
Pozdrowienia
Ok. Dzieki
Hej Marcin, mam kilka oselek na sprzedaż. Zdjęcia i informacje znajdziesz na moim Instagramie. Pozdrawiam
@@StavrosGakos widziałem, że szukasz noży do strugów, może wymiana?
Odezwij się na forum :) dzięki!
Great, as always!
Thank you!
Beautiful plane - I’d like to try my hand at making something like it. Can you tell me the Latin name of Boxwood? Here in the states we have a couple of species referred to by that common name. One is Box Elder Maple (Acer negundo), and another is privet hedge (Ligustrum vulgare). The small diameter chunk could be either one.
Thanks!
Thanks Alec! I don't know Latin name of boxwood, but you can use most hardwoods for that kind of project. Good luck!
Common boxwood /European/ buxus sempervivens . On the other side of the pond you can use caseria praecox wich is referred as boxwood overthere. Very simular use of timber. However if you need the original one please let me know we can do something about it
Tomek wròbel - Thank you! I will look into our local species. After thinking about this for a while, I’ve decided to try hop hornbeam (Ostrya virginiana). This is a very tough diffuse porous hardwood formerly used for such rugged applications as ox yokes and wagon axles. It should work well, and it grows on my land!
@@alecmacleod9147 good luck with your project. Have fun making it and if you going to use your own timber that's even better. I was quite surprised to know you planning to use ligustrum . I never considered it as timber source becouse in my native Poland it only grows to thumb thickness.
All the best and show us the end product please.
Tomek wròbel - The notion of using Ligustrum puzzled me too, though here the basal stem does get large enough and looks like what Stavros had in his hand. I live in western Massachusetts where there are large areas of forest and many species of trees, so I have choices. But I really like the density and hardness of the woods Stavros utilizes, and those characteristics tend to be unusual, both naturally and due to invasive diseases. Here, for instance, the native beeches (Fagus grandiflora) are dying due to the European beech bark disease, so access to that wood is limited. Our American Chestnuts and Elms have long ago been hammered by Asian diseases and the Ash is now threatened by the Emerald Ash Borer. We fight hard against the Asian Long-horned beetle, a pest that attacks diffuse porous and sweet wooded trees like Sugar and Red Maples, all the Birches and other lesser species.
It’s good to converse with you! I need to get to Poland and see what’s happening in your woodworking community. Thanks again for your responses.
Is this a mitre plane, or a low-angle block plane?
Mitre planes got mouth closer, strike block don't, you know the answer 👍
Wow klasse Arbeit
Thanks a lot!
Красиво! А как называется древесина, из которой сделали рубанок?
На акацию похоже...
Dziękuję! To bukszpan, napisałem o tym w opisie filmu :) pozdrowienia!
@@StavrosGakos Спасибо!
I enjoy that you keep the original blade's mark, it's realy "romantic"
Nice plane too, I love that press system
Sadly I don't win the hammer :(
I must build my own I guess ^^
Thank you :)
Hi Stavros, I have a problem, I can't stop planing shit. The doctors say I am beyond helping, I say it's just endlessly fun. What's your advice?
Just don't stop :)
kolejna mega zabawka :)
what kind of wood is it?
Hey, everything is on the descriotion