Outstanding video. Thank you for the time you gave and information you shared. I'm hoping you can help me. I have a 2007 Toyota Matrix, as I understand is the same as a Corolla, I paid a mechanic to change the clutch and flywheel. I lack time and tools to get the job done myself. From the day I picked up my car I have had an ongoing issue that I never had prior to the clutch and FW replacement. You maybe able to shed light on what might be the problem. When driving, regardless of speed or gear I am in, if I go over irregular road surface, e.g. train tracks, the RMP will drop out completely for an instant and then resume. This doesn't happen all the time though, Now the problem has gone from RPM dropping out and resuming correct RPM to stalling the car. When the car stalls it will start right up again and then drive no problem until the next time it happens, which could be at any moment or go for days without a problem. In trouble shooting this I have replaced the spark plugs, new fuel pump assembly, mass air flow sensor and cleaned the intake system. All work done by mechanic (different mechanic who changed out the clutch and FW) hoping that this will fix the problem. He also checked any fuse issues, loose wire harness, ground terminals, and love tapped almost the entire top surface of the engine to see if there's a loose connection somewhere. No luck. When the clutch and FW were replaced, is there a chance that a cable has been stretched or plug that isn't connecting properly in a less obvious place other than the top side of the engine be the cause of this worsening intermittent problem? Any suggestions/advise is welcome. Many thanks, Steve.
If the issue happened right after the clutch replacement I would suspect that the flywheel and/or pressure plate, clutch disc, release bearing was not installed and torqued down properly which can cause that and there would be some amount of vibration going on within the vehicle while driving. Unless it is a coincidence and something else started or got damaged during the clutch replacement job I would double check to make all connectors are plugged in on both the transmission and engine side. Also, have a look at the air duct and airbox area to make sure everything is seated in properly at the throttle body and airbox side. Make sure the mass air flow sensor is plugged in properly and no wires got damaged in the process. I would first scan for any DTCs (trouble codes) with a scan tool to see if any codes are stored. I would have a look at the crankshaft position sensor CKP near the crank pulley to see if there is anything obvious through a visual inspection - look for frayed, broken wires, etc. I would check the easy/simple things also make sure that the proper fluid level in the gearbox/transmission is at the correct level and the proper gear oil was used GL-4 gear oil either 75W90 or 75W85. Another thing I would check is the input speed sensor/speedometer speed sensor if that got damaged or something along the way mounted on to the transmission usually. Check the battery terminals make sure they are not loose or broken in any way. Check all of those and see if any of those fixes your problem. Do not replace any parts unless there is evidence that the old part is damaged/faulty. I hope this helps.
@@moosemobileautorepair Mate, thank you for your time in replying to me. You have given me a lot of information and I hope that over time I will be able to check these suggestions out. Sadly, the car isn't throwing a check engine light. A lot of trial and error now and like you suggested, I'm not going to change any other parts. I feel that the old fuel pump was working fine. Thank you again, Steve.
@stephenmorris2213 You're welcome. I would first check the battery terminals make sure they are tight. Other things I didn't include were ignition coils, but most likely, it's something that is going to affect the entire engine like the crankshaft position sensor or input speed sensor. Let me know how it goes.
@@moosemobileautorepair Hi, I did check the battery terminals as I was checking the ground terminals hoping to find a loose connection and a quick fix to this problem. Sadly, it wasn't the cause of the problem, thus, not the quick fix I was hoping for.
Hi mine has an oil leak coming out of that small black cover on the bell housing what could be an issue? video timecode 27:52 that cover below your hand
Typically, if there is oil behind the black plastic cover that would usually mean the rear main seal is leaking. Keep note that if you have oil leaks coming from above I would check that first before condemning the rear main seal. Oil leaks start from on top and work their way down so verify that there are no other oil leaks coming from top. If you see oil only from that area then the rear main seal is leaking.
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Outstanding video. Thank you for the time you gave and information you shared. I'm hoping you can help me. I have a 2007 Toyota Matrix, as I understand is the same as a Corolla, I paid a mechanic to change the clutch and flywheel. I lack time and tools to get the job done myself. From the day I picked up my car I have had an ongoing issue that I never had prior to the clutch and FW replacement. You maybe able to shed light on what might be the problem. When driving, regardless of speed or gear I am in, if I go over irregular road surface, e.g. train tracks, the RMP will drop out completely for an instant and then resume. This doesn't happen all the time though, Now the problem has gone from RPM dropping out and resuming correct RPM to stalling the car. When the car stalls it will start right up again and then drive no problem until the next time it happens, which could be at any moment or go for days without a problem. In trouble shooting this I have replaced the spark plugs, new fuel pump assembly, mass air flow sensor and cleaned the intake system. All work done by mechanic (different mechanic who changed out the clutch and FW) hoping that this will fix the problem. He also checked any fuse issues, loose wire harness, ground terminals, and love tapped almost the entire top surface of the engine to see if there's a loose connection somewhere. No luck. When the clutch and FW were replaced, is there a chance that a cable has been stretched or plug that isn't connecting properly in a less obvious place other than the top side of the engine be the cause of this worsening intermittent problem? Any suggestions/advise is welcome. Many thanks, Steve.
If the issue happened right after the clutch replacement I would suspect that the flywheel and/or pressure plate, clutch disc, release bearing was not installed and torqued down properly which can cause that and there would be some amount of vibration going on within the vehicle while driving. Unless it is a coincidence and something else started or got damaged during the clutch replacement job I would double check to make all connectors are plugged in on both the transmission and engine side.
Also, have a look at the air duct and airbox area to make sure everything is seated in properly at the throttle body and airbox side. Make sure the mass air flow sensor is plugged in properly and no wires got damaged in the process.
I would first scan for any DTCs (trouble codes) with a scan tool to see if any codes are stored. I would have a look at the crankshaft position sensor CKP near the crank pulley to see if there is anything obvious through a visual inspection - look for frayed, broken wires, etc.
I would check the easy/simple things also make sure that the proper fluid level in the gearbox/transmission is at the correct level and the proper gear oil was used GL-4 gear oil either 75W90 or 75W85.
Another thing I would check is the input speed sensor/speedometer speed sensor if that got damaged or something along the way mounted on to the transmission usually.
Check the battery terminals make sure they are not loose or broken in any way.
Check all of those and see if any of those fixes your problem. Do not replace any parts unless there is evidence that the old part is damaged/faulty.
I hope this helps.
@@moosemobileautorepair Mate, thank you for your time in replying to me. You have given me a lot of information and I hope that over time I will be able to check these suggestions out. Sadly, the car isn't throwing a check engine light. A lot of trial and error now and like you suggested, I'm not going to change any other parts. I feel that the old fuel pump was working fine. Thank you again, Steve.
@stephenmorris2213 You're welcome. I would first check the battery terminals make sure they are tight.
Other things I didn't include were ignition coils, but most likely, it's something that is going to affect the entire engine like the crankshaft position sensor or input speed sensor. Let me know how it goes.
@@moosemobileautorepair Hi, I did check the battery terminals as I was checking the ground terminals hoping to find a loose connection and a quick fix to this problem. Sadly, it wasn't the cause of the problem, thus, not the quick fix I was hoping for.
Hi mine has an oil leak coming out of that small black cover on the bell housing what could be an issue?
video timecode 27:52 that cover below your hand
Typically, if there is oil behind the black plastic cover that would usually mean the rear main seal is leaking. Keep note that if you have oil leaks coming from above I would check that first before condemning the rear main seal. Oil leaks start from on top and work their way down so verify that there are no other oil leaks coming from top. If you see oil only from that area then the rear main seal is leaking.
@@moosemobileautorepair thanks for the prompt response, to change the seal, how many hours would that roughly take?