My outdoor wood stove doing pretty good I'm not having no problems with mine yet Norco wood same outdoors wood like here I like your video love your video keep burning 🔥
I'm still on track for a G7000 this year. I'm on the collection of hardwood from down trees from the property with some fir for fun. Whenever I see a pine tree I smile and say Pine is just Fine! The wife is tired of hearing it already. It's ok. That won't stop me from repeating it. Learning a lot about heatmaster OWB from your channel.
In a gasification type boiler? (Re: pine is fine.) I wouldn’t even dare think about it… What he’s experiencing here is best case scenario… pine would lead to potentially the worst case.
That’s a nice unit. I don’t burn much of pine or spruce. Glad you’re learning some stuff. I’m still learning. Next video you will see some other stuff to learn. Haha. Funny but not funny. It’s cold out and I’m cold.
I will qualify that i don’t have a boiler, let alone a gasification one, just a catalytic style fireplace, which i would not dare burn pine in, as the white birch i burn is already pretty bad for creating a lot of creosote and ash. (Prefer my older style napolean stove with the secondary air.) It just sounds like you will find it’s ‘probably’ not worth being temped by pine, like a traditional boiler, because of the extra required deep cleaning.
@@GMC-qo9xi I have a G-4000 and burn plenty of pine/spruce. It's an old wives tale that it produces extra creosote. Wet wood causes creosote, doesn't matter the species. As long as it's dry, it gets the full send in my unit.
@@richarddabkowski2896 I would’ve sworn that the sap/pine gum drastically increased the proportion of creosote as compared to the btu given back. I have literally tonnes of white pine on my property, which is the species I’m referring to, and should have said so, in case you mean yellow pine or something more comparable (which doesn’t grow around this region). If it’s true for white pine, i will happily change my tune!
@@Treestofirewood Okay, i see, i was being optimistic. However, I’m sure it’s just a hiccup that you will have dialled in shortly… Just a pain in the butt till then!
Like the way you have your boiler inside under roof. My CB6048 conventional is placed so I can stand under roof when loading with my back facing my wood shed. Hope you see good results from your cleaning.
I don’t have a gaser. I had an issue. I’m like you, I run my unit year round. My damper arm was getting harder to pull finally it wouldn’t move. I left a comment recently and since then switched back to normal factory recommendations for cold winter applications. I was told every now and then create hot fires. 🔥 ambient temperature in fire box and water temperature are two different animals. Think about how our boilers are set up. Hot water tank first can tell the difference in temperature deviations. My boiler is regulated by water temperatures at thermostat. Not the heat in fire chamber. My unit smolders long, long, durations before its cycles when called by thermostat to activate fans. The hot fires I think so far have really worked. It’s keeping it cleaner I can see it. There is something you have to watch for. Have a great day.
All good advice. I have to figure something out. I’m trying some things now to see if I can get it figured out. It’s just weird that it’s now running like garbage. I hope I get it figured out soon because we have some cold cold weather coming in soon.
Matt did you get heat master figured out??? I have a dealer close to me that is super knowledgeable on those units. A friend of mine sales central boilers I can reach out to him also. Another great resource. Hope it’s fixed. Let me know if you need help. Thank you.
@BW35bucket no it’s not figured out yet. I think we are close though. I still feel I’m going through twice the amount of wood than we did at this time with temps higher. Wood is dry of course. Nothing has changed as far as I know.
I've got a G4000 on its 2nd season that had a similar problem with not gassing right. Like you, I've cleaned unit routinely and never see any signs of creosote in the lower chamber or in the back on the fan or around the tube outlets. Holes in side panels were all open. After much effort, finally got the side panels pulled and found partial blockage with creosote at the back (where air actually enters). After cleaning this, seems to be working OK but occasionally maybe still not like new. The next warm spell, I will pull the air inlet dampers and clean from that side as well. While I love the induced draft fan, it is more sensitive to air blockage than a forced draft fan. Have you had any problem with your side panels being glued in by creosote?
Yeah the panels were definitely stuck due to creosote. I put a strap in the holes when the stove was just coals at 180 degrees. Took all ash and coals out. Used the strap to pop out one side. Cleaned it. Put back in to pop the other side. Then took them both off. Took top damper off and both air channels were completely plugged. Did the bottom channel as well. Made a huge difference. I still don’t think it’s back to like new. But defining better than what it was.
@@Treestofirewood I used a fence hinge bolt and ground down the hinge pin to fit into air hole and attached a handle to the threaded end to pound against with a 3 lb hammer. Need to remake this as a slide hammer device. Never expected to see creosote back in the air inlets since as long as the blower is on, there is no way for smoke to back into these areas. My guess is that this occurs when the stove is at idle and the top chamber is still hot and producing smoke/creosote. I've gone to loading only the amount of wood that will be needed until the next fill time (for me I fill every 8 hrs during cold weather) rather than totally filling so it can go 12 hrs. I think I'm getting less creosote in the upper chamber this way based upon what I see when scrapping the fire box. Been particularly careful to scrape the floor/wall joint area as it looks like creosote runs down and pools there. Last yr saw 2 inch thick build up of creosote there. Made a pointed scrapper out of half inch pipe with a sharpened piece of rebar for cleaning this area. So far this has worked well for me. Thanks for putting out these videos. I don't always get a chance to watch, but always learn something. Every little bit helps in learning how to use these gassers.
@gordonvenema1556 yeah you never want to over load that’s for sure because then that’s just that much more moisture in the box than it needs to be. That’s why for me starting in spring summer I’m going to kiln dry everything before it goes into the kiln. That way there is basically no water going into the box and hopefully that slows down the build up on the top box.
@@Treestofirewood The Heatmaster was on my list in 2019. The g10000 is probably closer to the size that I will need but CB didn't make the 960 until after I bought the 750HD. I went for the CB because of the online dashboard, I wanted to see my boiler temp from work. I'll figure a way to wrangle more heat out of my unit later, right now it works great.
@@Treestofirewood In your vid there was some creosote at the end of your secondary tube, could your secondary nozzles be partially plugged? Did you try the paper test like richarddabkowski2896 suggested,? I just did my primary air channels for the first time in October before I fired up. 2.5 seasons about ~32 cords worth. I was down to a 1/2" hole on both sides.
You would be surprised the buildup you can get internally in the warmer seasons when the boiler isn't cycling frequently. I don't know the design of the air passages into your heat master nozzle. On my home built I have seen the passages in the refractory itself become clogged in the shoulder season. 5%-6% 02 is the target during gasification with any gasifier. I just posted a short of what 5% looks like in my boiler for you to compare. I was going to put it in a video response, but I'm not that savvy. It's on my page. Keep up the videos!!
Therrrrrrrmal storageeeee!!! Will solve all ambient temperature burning issues you are experiencing. I burn my clone Garn -40*f and 100*f doesn’t burn (combustion efficiency) any different except fire 3/day @-40 to 1/week @100f. No creosote in firebox or secondary chamber or heat exchanger flues. No servos, no O2 sensors, no PLCs. Sometimes less is more.
you bet, but he has too much load for a garny, plus they cost to much. Clearly you agree with the second point there because you have a clone. I would assume you copied the (1500), it's the most common? To put it in perspective the G10000 (operating normally) will almost put out in one 12 hour fill what your 3 burns do assuming your using the same wood and copied the (1500). Under higher demand he can load it more frequently than every 12 hrs and get more out of it. Homemade clone? Your lucky you can get away with a homemade unit, here in Canada I would void my insurance with anything but an approved unit. Edited. 2000 to 1500. 1500 is the more common one.
@@yetilikesbeer where to start unpacking this… 1) he’s got way more than a load problem. The small piping and extensive loop lengths with numerous exchangeers and fittings need to be redone. Primary/secondary is name of game. 2) more output? Well maybe. With that size firebox that’s 2-3 times mine. And when you install a Garn you size HXs to operate over a wider delta. SSC is not nearly a concern on a Garn as it is for a downdraft gasser. 3) cheaper??…with a Garn you are one and done. Here to get same performance ( no tar factory filled firebox with dripping creosote and plugged air intakes/ servos and cycling) you need to add storage to negate your problems of shoulder seasons or mild winters. Adding storage puts you past expense of Garn. 4) I built a separate shed just for my boiler and wood storage. No connection to business or living qtrs just for that reason if adjuster deemed it uninsurable. They said no problem. Going on 17 years.
@@garny3766 Apparently this new RUclips update doesn't play nice with my phone and I only get some notifications, thanks google. I didn't see your reply until yesterday. Your handle sounded familiar. I watched your boiler video last year after seeing your "Thermal Storage" comment on some other videos. The comment was already 1 year old so no point debating at the time. Nice job on the boiler, your video did get me to research the Garns because there are none in my area and I was curious to see what they are. Looks like there are dealers in BC and Southeastern Canada, warmer areas. I'm 1.5 hours NW of Edmonton in Alberta.
@@garny3766 Now, back to the conversation...... 1) Regardless of his system, his load is larger. Heating those buildings to those temps, that's alot of surface area to bleed heat. (Personally I run my shop as low as possible unless I need the heat for something, but I'm frugal). 2) Sorry man but output of the boiler is output, nothing to do with anything else, your just operating over a wider temp range. You never confirmed what unit you cloned, I got them mixed up, the whs1500 is the common one, I'll assume that's what you have (I edited my last comment to show 1500). Now I have been around neither of these running but strictly on the manufactors numbers for both your outgunned. With the 1500, then doing 3 full burns in 24 hrs, 120f to 200f (920,000 BTUs per batch using optimal wood), it stacks up somewhere between the smaller g4000 and g7000 units assuming they did 2 fills over the 24hr period using the same wood. Nowhere near the g10000, it is a massive unit, capacity closer to the $$$$$ commercial units. Like the Garn whs3200. If Matt wont play ball with you I will. Mine is a little smaller, a Central Boiler CE 750HD. The G10000 had the capacity that I need in the future but I chose the CB for a different reason and will deal with the capacity issues later. 3) a)Cheaper, yes, absolutely an OWB with outdoor install is always going to be cheaper than a Garn when heating multiple structures. b) One and done, not really. Doesn't matter what kind of boiler, they all have failures whether it's a manufacturers defect to poor maintenance or rotting them out by filling it with nasty water. There are plenty of documented failures on Garns to go along with all the other boiler failures. c) All OWBs will run with some creosote absolutely, the downfall of a continuous burn cycle. But if you take some time to find optimal firewood or firewood blends they can be operated very cleanly, dryer the wood the better (up to a certain point, you'll know it when you get there. Unfortunately it can take as little as one load to gum everything up, moisture testing is key, and it has to be the average MC of the piece (cut in half, measure center, average with outside). I have burned mine for days at temps up to 79f, almost zero load, no issues. I shut down for the summer when my shop doesn't need heat, my fuel is much cheaper than you guys (assuming your oil or electric), to run my furnace on colder days and hot water for the 4.5 to 5 months is 80 to 200 bucks (family of 4). Power here to run one new high efficiency circulator for 4.75 months is ~150 bucks. I'm not paying to use wood heat! 4) Shed goes against install cost. Here (Alberta) the rules/insurance make it more expensive to use any wood burning appliance in a building that is not your "dwelling" especially if it is used as your primary heat source verses supplemental heat. They classify it as an "Unattended Wood Appliance." OWBs are outside and as long as setbacks are followed from combustibles and installation is correct it is exempt.
@@yetilikesbeer 1) yes it’s larger but can he get the heat to load at proper capacity?. Run low temps?..well like I said SCC. I covered that with an automobile cooling system. Best of luck. 2) 🤦♂️🤦♂️ difference between optimal conditions laboratory wood boiler output and real world 24hr conditions. Back to internal combustion engine efficiency and longevity…which will make the engine last longer and run more efficient?…stop and go short trip traffic or constant rpm highway miles? I think you know that answer. Same as boilers. 3) I wish CB and headmaster would fully adopt the European model of chunk wood boilers. But everyone on this side of the pond is stuck in the rut it’s one self contained unit that sits outside and that’s that😤 Yes shed does play into expense, but 8/10 times owb users are sticking them into a lean to or shortly after a season or 2 building a carport/shed around the owb. Besides I have a full size structure that if or when I’m done with wood I have a concreted garage waiting to be repurposed. Too bad about your insurance. And 1 more…yes Garns do have failures but 9/10 times they can be repaired in place. They have manway hatches that allow inspection and repair. Neighbor has one that was installed in 1985. It needed to have a few water jack leaks repaired do to no water treatment. It was easily patched from inside tank. It’s still in service. Forgot to add…owb are not a continuous burn per say, they cycle the combustion via an aquastat. Garns on the other hand burn full out until load is gone. No cycling of combustion, no creosote. Boiler is burning at optimal high temp combustion for entire wood load.
I have a G 7,000. It sucks, barely worked when it was new. Cleaning the lower door is easy. But you have to clean ashes every 2-3 weeks from the upper burn chamber or the ashes plug the side plates. Which means I have to shut it down for quite a while or eat and breath combustion gases for 20 minutes because you cant clean this thing with out sticking your head in there. And then every month shut it down pull the upper dampener plate to clean to two side channels, remove the fan and the upper rear plate to clean the chimney opening. This thing is a POS!
If the bottom is always showing 10%. What does the O2 sensor saying the O2 percentage is? What is your target percentage? The bottom damper won't open from the minimum of 10% until the O2 percentages starts dropping below your target. Also, a quick way to see if it's blocked or not without taking it off. When the bottom is open (although this wasn't happening in yours) if you put a piece of paper against the hole the paper should stick.
Whenever it is at 10% the o2 is always higher than 6%. 6 is the target. I just feel lately it is not gassing and that’s why it’s taking longer to get up to temp and going through so much wood.
@@Treestofirewood if it's over 6% that's Def why the bottom isn't opening. (although with your dry wood you should probably lower the O2 to like 4%, my wood is definitely worse than yours and mine is set to 4.2%) There has to be something happening in the upper chamber preventing the O2 getting lower. Have you taken those air plates in the firebox off (I haven't personally) maybe they plugged from the slownburning summer?
@richarddabkowski2896 I recently cleaned behind the panels a few weeks ago. They were plugged completely. So those now are wide open. So it should be getting plenty of air flow. When the unit is in a burn cycle like I just looked. The O2 was around 17 percent. It’s only around 6 when it is just coals. I don’t understand.
@@Treestofirewood I've been thinking on it. If you have a good coal bed the O2 should be dropping. Any chance something is wrong with fan? Or maybe something is wrong with O2 sensor, I think if you aren't in a burn cycle is should show around 21% maybe check to what it's showing when it's idling
@@Treestofirewood actually thinking on it more, have you cleaned out the back area near the fans/turbulaters? Maybe the bolts on the back plate aren't tightened so the fan is sucking air from there instead of the firebox?
The g series is an engineering disaster. How much did you pay for that? How many hours of cleaning it out now? How much did you mess with it the first year after being brand spanking new? Did heat master reimburse you for your time? Utter ridiculous! Long story short.. I had one.. for just one season and told heat master to get it the fuck off my property. I have been running the c series with 98% less issues btw.. Almost none really. I also previously used to build rocket stoves to heat my homes that tested at 95% or better efficiency. I had zero dirty burns with my builds.. I repeat ZERO creosote in 4 years of use. I could eat off my exhaust pipes(chimney). G series is trash burns with trash heating output. Heat master needs to study up on what gasification is supposed to look like. It's bullshit.. you just wasted your money for something you'll constantly be messing with. The blower needs to be in front of the fire if at all. The heat exchangers needs to be at least 4 times the surface area with less narrow restriction points. The current design creates too much turbulence too far down the pipe. The only turbulence should be at or near the hottest point of the system. Otherwise the later cooling will bring water and smoke together and create built up. It's a bad design. I felt your pain in your expressed frustration with the operation of the unit. Good luck friend.
Which c series did you get? I’m really considering the c 800. Also when burning super dry wood in your c how much smoke do you get coming out. That’s the only thing I am concerned about is it puffing away all the time.
@@Treestofirewood If you have super dry wood, it will puff a little smoke when it's not running, especially if it's warm out, but it's pretty mild overall. When it goes into a burn cycle, dry wood burns very clean. Honestly the wetwood will just smoke a little longer trying to get the moisture out, but with that blower fan on that bed of coals is just getting quite a hot fire going. A hot fire is the only way to have a clean burn.. So I generally feel okay about it. The upper chambers for cleaning out and the chimney itself I have maybe deliberately cleaned out two times in the last three or four years. And never once has there exhaust pathway been actually impeded in any sort of way that I could tell. The unit just runs clean generally speaking. I have the c 150, but The next up size would have been a good choice too. I have a family member that has one and loves it.
@@Treestofirewood I'm all for the gasification concept, but the c series you are going to love more. And even if you like the g series.. your gunna have problems. That kind of money spent should not come with problems. It should just work. The c series will just work and you will sleep like a baby in comparison.. trust me. Lastly, another thing against the g series. They rate the efficiency on those units on how many pounds of woods vs how many BTUs they get according to new EPA rules. However this DOES NOT translate to burn efficiency. It's just efficiency on capturing heat from the burn. The g series burns inconsistent... Where they get efficiency is in the heat capture. But if you ask me you get more from your wood when if burns clean and upkeep is effortless. You can feed a c series unsplit logs too. So it's cut down on splitting about 90%. Talk about efficiency.. the c series is the way to go hands down even if you are loosing a little more heat out the top of the chimney.
My outdoor wood stove doing pretty good I'm not having no problems with mine yet Norco wood same outdoors wood like here I like your video love your video keep burning 🔥
Glad your stove is running good. Nothing better when things work as designed.
Is your outdoor wood stove working any better at 🔥
@traviscover7002 I’m finishing up my follow up today. Wanted a few days of burning since cleaned up before I say my results.
@11:48 "smoking all the time" HAHA mine sure does lol thats how I know were cooking :)
There may be a change here soon. Idk.
I'm still on track for a G7000 this year. I'm on the collection of hardwood from down trees from the property with some fir for fun. Whenever I see a pine tree I smile and say Pine is just Fine! The wife is tired of hearing it already. It's ok. That won't stop me from repeating it. Learning a lot about heatmaster OWB from your channel.
In a gasification type boiler? (Re: pine is fine.) I wouldn’t even dare think about it… What he’s experiencing here is best case scenario… pine would lead to potentially the worst case.
That’s a nice unit. I don’t burn much of pine or spruce. Glad you’re learning some stuff. I’m still learning. Next video you will see some other stuff to learn. Haha. Funny but not funny. It’s cold out and I’m cold.
I will qualify that i don’t have a boiler, let alone a gasification one, just a catalytic style fireplace, which i would not dare burn pine in, as the white birch i burn is already pretty bad for creating a lot of creosote and ash. (Prefer my older style napolean stove with the secondary air.) It just sounds like you will find it’s ‘probably’ not worth being temped by pine, like a traditional boiler, because of the extra required deep cleaning.
@@GMC-qo9xi I have a G-4000 and burn plenty of pine/spruce. It's an old wives tale that it produces extra creosote. Wet wood causes creosote, doesn't matter the species. As long as it's dry, it gets the full send in my unit.
@@richarddabkowski2896 I would’ve sworn that the sap/pine gum drastically increased the proportion of creosote as compared to the btu given back. I have literally tonnes of white pine on my property, which is the species I’m referring to, and should have said so, in case you mean yellow pine or something more comparable (which doesn’t grow around this region). If it’s true for white pine, i will happily change my tune!
A moment of truth (regarding ease maintenance). You will be a greater resource for the newbies after you’ve figured it out.
Time will tell. This morning was a whole other story.
@@Treestofirewood Does that mean it was back to burning like new?
Nope. Not even close
@@Treestofirewood Okay, i see, i was being optimistic. However, I’m sure it’s just a hiccup that you will have dialled in shortly… Just a pain in the butt till then!
@@Treestofirewood I assume you’re trying to get a response from the manufacturer at this point.
Like the way you have your boiler inside under roof. My CB6048 conventional is placed so I can stand under roof when loading with my back facing my wood shed. Hope you see good results from your cleaning.
Sounds like you have a nice set up. It may take another day to see if it made any changes. You will understand when you see the next video.
I don’t have a gaser. I had an issue. I’m like you, I run my unit year round. My damper arm was getting harder to pull finally it wouldn’t move. I left a comment recently and since then switched back to normal factory recommendations for cold winter applications. I was told every now and then create hot fires. 🔥 ambient temperature in fire box and water temperature are two different animals. Think about how our boilers are set up. Hot water tank first can tell the difference in temperature deviations. My boiler is regulated by water temperatures at thermostat. Not the heat in fire chamber. My unit smolders long, long, durations before its cycles when called by thermostat to activate fans. The hot fires I think so far have really worked. It’s keeping it cleaner I can see it. There is something you have to watch for. Have a great day.
All good advice. I have to figure something out. I’m trying some things now to see if I can get it figured out. It’s just weird that it’s now running like garbage. I hope I get it figured out soon because we have some cold cold weather coming in soon.
Matt did you get heat master figured out??? I have a dealer close to me that is super knowledgeable on those units. A friend of mine sales central boilers I can reach out to him also. Another great resource. Hope it’s fixed. Let me know if you need help. Thank you.
@BW35bucket no it’s not figured out yet. I think we are close though. I still feel I’m going through twice the amount of wood than we did at this time with temps higher. Wood is dry of course. Nothing has changed as far as I know.
I've got a G4000 on its 2nd season that had a similar problem with not gassing right. Like you, I've cleaned unit routinely and never see any signs of creosote in the lower chamber or in the back on the fan or around the tube outlets. Holes in side panels were all open. After much effort, finally got the side panels pulled and found partial blockage with creosote at the back (where air actually enters). After cleaning this, seems to be working OK but occasionally maybe still not like new. The next warm spell, I will pull the air inlet dampers and clean from that side as well. While I love the induced draft fan, it is more sensitive to air blockage than a forced draft fan. Have you had any problem with your side panels being glued in by creosote?
Yeah the panels were definitely stuck due to creosote. I put a strap in the holes when the stove was just coals at 180 degrees. Took all ash and coals out. Used the strap to pop out one side. Cleaned it. Put back in to pop the other side. Then took them both off. Took top damper off and both air channels were completely plugged. Did the bottom channel as well. Made a huge difference. I still don’t think it’s back to like new. But defining better than what it was.
@@Treestofirewood I used a fence hinge bolt and ground down the hinge pin to fit into air hole and attached a handle to the threaded end to pound against with a 3 lb hammer. Need to remake this as a slide hammer device. Never expected to see creosote back in the air inlets since as long as the blower is on, there is no way for smoke to back into these areas. My guess is that this occurs when the stove is at idle and the top chamber is still hot and producing smoke/creosote. I've gone to loading only the amount of wood that will be needed until the next fill time (for me I fill every 8 hrs during cold weather) rather than totally filling so it can go 12 hrs. I think I'm getting less creosote in the upper chamber this way based upon what I see when scrapping the fire box. Been particularly careful to scrape the floor/wall joint area as it looks like creosote runs down and pools there. Last yr saw 2 inch thick build up of creosote there. Made a pointed scrapper out of half inch pipe with a sharpened piece of rebar for cleaning this area. So far this has worked well for me. Thanks for putting out these videos. I don't always get a chance to watch, but always learn something. Every little bit helps in learning how to use these gassers.
@gordonvenema1556 yeah you never want to over load that’s for sure because then that’s just that much more moisture in the box than it needs to be. That’s why for me starting in spring summer I’m going to kiln dry everything before it goes into the kiln. That way there is basically no water going into the box and hopefully that slows down the build up on the top box.
Hopefully you figure it out.
If you had a CB I might be able to help. But this beast is too different from my beast.
Yeah I hope I do as well. I’m assuming you have a cb gasser?
@@Treestofirewood yes. 4th season with a 750HD.
@yetilikesbeer awesome. CB makes great products as well.
@@Treestofirewood The Heatmaster was on my list in 2019. The g10000 is probably closer to the size that I will need but CB didn't make the 960 until after I bought the 750HD.
I went for the CB because of the online dashboard, I wanted to see my boiler temp from work.
I'll figure a way to wrangle more heat out of my unit later, right now it works great.
@@Treestofirewood In your vid there was some creosote at the end of your secondary tube, could your secondary nozzles be partially plugged? Did you try the paper test like richarddabkowski2896 suggested,?
I just did my primary air channels for the first time in October before I fired up. 2.5 seasons about ~32 cords worth. I was down to a 1/2" hole on both sides.
You would be surprised the buildup you can get internally in the warmer seasons when the boiler isn't cycling frequently. I don't know the design of the air passages into your heat master nozzle. On my home built I have seen the passages in the refractory itself become clogged in the shoulder season. 5%-6% 02 is the target during gasification with any gasifier. I just posted a short of what 5% looks like in my boiler for you to compare. I was going to put it in a video response, but I'm not that savvy. It's on my page. Keep up the videos!!
ruclips.net/user/shortssqB672E8V4U?si=MDFWTBQO4koMlw1c
I dont know if the link will display? This is the short I uploaded for you> around 5% o2
I will check it out.
Therrrrrrrmal storageeeee!!! Will solve all ambient temperature burning issues you are experiencing. I burn my clone Garn -40*f and 100*f doesn’t burn (combustion efficiency) any different except fire 3/day @-40 to 1/week @100f. No creosote in firebox or secondary chamber or heat exchanger flues. No servos, no O2 sensors, no PLCs. Sometimes less is more.
you bet, but he has too much load for a garny, plus they cost to much. Clearly you agree with the second point there because you have a clone. I would assume you copied the (1500), it's the most common?
To put it in perspective the G10000 (operating normally) will almost put out in one 12 hour fill what your 3 burns do assuming your using the same wood and copied the (1500). Under higher demand he can load it more frequently than every 12 hrs and get more out of it.
Homemade clone? Your lucky you can get away with a homemade unit, here in Canada I would void my insurance with anything but an approved unit.
Edited. 2000 to 1500. 1500 is the more common one.
@@yetilikesbeer where to start unpacking this…
1) he’s got way more than a load problem. The small piping and extensive loop lengths with numerous exchangeers and fittings need to be redone. Primary/secondary is name of game.
2) more output? Well maybe. With that size firebox that’s 2-3 times mine. And when you install a Garn you size HXs to operate over a wider delta. SSC is not nearly a concern on a Garn as it is for a downdraft gasser.
3) cheaper??…with a Garn you are one and done. Here to get same performance ( no tar factory filled firebox with dripping creosote and plugged air intakes/ servos and cycling) you need to add storage to negate your problems of shoulder seasons or mild winters. Adding storage puts you past expense of Garn.
4) I built a separate shed just for my boiler and wood storage. No connection to business or living qtrs just for that reason if adjuster deemed it uninsurable. They said no problem. Going on 17 years.
@@garny3766 Apparently this new RUclips update doesn't play nice with my phone and I only get some notifications, thanks google. I didn't see your reply until yesterday.
Your handle sounded familiar. I watched your boiler video last year after seeing your "Thermal Storage" comment on some other videos. The comment was already 1 year old so no point debating at the time.
Nice job on the boiler, your video did get me to research the Garns because there are none in my area and I was curious to see what they are. Looks like there are dealers in BC and Southeastern Canada, warmer areas. I'm 1.5 hours NW of Edmonton in Alberta.
@@garny3766 Now, back to the conversation......
1) Regardless of his system, his load is larger. Heating those buildings to those temps, that's alot of surface area to bleed heat. (Personally I run my shop as low as possible unless I need the heat for something, but I'm frugal).
2) Sorry man but output of the boiler is output, nothing to do with anything else, your just operating over a wider temp range. You never confirmed what unit you cloned, I got them mixed up, the whs1500 is the common one, I'll assume that's what you have (I edited my last comment to show 1500). Now I have been around neither of these running but strictly on the manufactors numbers for both your outgunned. With the 1500, then doing 3 full burns in 24 hrs, 120f to 200f (920,000 BTUs per batch using optimal wood), it stacks up somewhere between the smaller g4000 and g7000 units assuming they did 2 fills over the 24hr period using the same wood. Nowhere near the g10000, it is a massive unit, capacity closer to the $$$$$ commercial units. Like the Garn whs3200. If Matt wont play ball with you I will. Mine is a little smaller, a Central Boiler CE 750HD. The G10000 had the capacity that I need in the future but I chose the CB for a different reason and will deal with the capacity issues later.
3) a)Cheaper, yes, absolutely an OWB with outdoor install is always going to be cheaper than a Garn when heating multiple structures.
b) One and done, not really. Doesn't matter what kind of boiler, they all have failures whether it's a manufacturers defect to poor maintenance or rotting them out by filling it with nasty water. There are plenty of documented failures on Garns to go along with all the other boiler failures.
c) All OWBs will run with some creosote absolutely, the downfall of a continuous burn cycle. But if you take some time to find optimal firewood or firewood blends they can be operated very cleanly, dryer the wood the better (up to a certain point, you'll know it when you get there. Unfortunately it can take as little as one load to gum everything up, moisture testing is key, and it has to be the average MC of the piece (cut in half, measure center, average with outside). I have burned mine for days at temps up to 79f, almost zero load, no issues. I shut down for the summer when my shop doesn't need heat, my fuel is much cheaper than you guys (assuming your oil or electric), to run my furnace on colder days and hot water for the 4.5 to 5 months is 80 to 200 bucks (family of 4). Power here to run one new high efficiency circulator for 4.75 months is ~150 bucks. I'm not paying to use wood heat!
4) Shed goes against install cost.
Here (Alberta) the rules/insurance make it more expensive to use any wood burning appliance in a building that is not your "dwelling" especially if it is used as your primary heat source verses supplemental heat. They classify it as an "Unattended Wood Appliance." OWBs are outside and as long as setbacks are followed from combustibles and installation is correct it is exempt.
@@yetilikesbeer
1) yes it’s larger but can he get the heat to load at proper capacity?. Run low temps?..well like I said SCC. I covered that with an automobile cooling system. Best of luck.
2) 🤦♂️🤦♂️ difference between optimal conditions laboratory wood boiler output and real world 24hr conditions. Back to internal combustion engine efficiency and longevity…which will make the engine last longer and run more efficient?…stop and go short trip traffic or constant rpm highway miles? I think you know that answer. Same as boilers.
3) I wish CB and headmaster would fully adopt the European model of chunk wood boilers. But everyone on this side of the pond is stuck in the rut it’s one self contained unit that sits outside and that’s that😤
Yes shed does play into expense, but 8/10 times owb users are sticking them into a lean to or shortly after a season or 2 building a carport/shed around the owb. Besides I have a full size structure that if or when I’m done with wood I have a concreted garage waiting to be repurposed.
Too bad about your insurance.
And 1 more…yes Garns do have failures but 9/10 times they can be repaired in place. They have manway hatches that allow inspection and repair. Neighbor has one that was installed in 1985. It needed to have a few water jack leaks repaired do to no water treatment. It was easily patched from inside tank. It’s still in service.
Forgot to add…owb are not a continuous burn per say, they cycle the combustion via an aquastat. Garns on the other hand burn full out until load is gone. No cycling of combustion, no creosote. Boiler is burning at optimal high temp combustion for entire wood load.
I didnt mean to clog your machine up via our boiler shootout LOL
Haha. I knew that was coming. It’s all good. But puts some thing into perspective.
Have you ever run Ashtol in it? Apparently it helps clean the creosote.
No I haven’t put any of that in there. I’m not sure that would help. Just because the fire burns down. But wouldn’t hurt to give it a try.
I have a G 7,000. It sucks, barely worked when it was new. Cleaning the lower door is easy. But you have to clean ashes every 2-3 weeks from the upper burn chamber or the ashes plug the side plates. Which means I have to shut it down for quite a while or eat and breath combustion gases for 20 minutes because you cant clean this thing with out sticking your head in there. And then every month shut it down pull the upper dampener plate to clean to two side channels, remove the fan and the upper rear plate to clean the chimney opening. This thing is a POS!
Yea I hear ya. Cleaning is a chore. That’s why I traded the unit for a new c800 a year ago
Is there a chance your pipe has build up too?
Sorry you said it was clean.
If the bottom is always showing 10%. What does the O2 sensor saying the O2 percentage is? What is your target percentage?
The bottom damper won't open from the minimum of 10% until the O2 percentages starts dropping below your target.
Also, a quick way to see if it's blocked or not without taking it off. When the bottom is open (although this wasn't happening in yours) if you put a piece of paper against the hole the paper should stick.
Whenever it is at 10% the o2 is always higher than 6%. 6 is the target. I just feel lately it is not gassing and that’s why it’s taking longer to get up to temp and going through so much wood.
@@Treestofirewood if it's over 6% that's Def why the bottom isn't opening. (although with your dry wood you should probably lower the O2 to like 4%, my wood is definitely worse than yours and mine is set to 4.2%)
There has to be something happening in the upper chamber preventing the O2 getting lower. Have you taken those air plates in the firebox off (I haven't personally) maybe they plugged from the slownburning summer?
@richarddabkowski2896 I recently cleaned behind the panels a few weeks ago. They were plugged completely. So those now are wide open. So it should be getting plenty of air flow. When the unit is in a burn cycle like I just looked. The O2 was around 17 percent. It’s only around 6 when it is just coals. I don’t understand.
@@Treestofirewood I've been thinking on it. If you have a good coal bed the O2 should be dropping.
Any chance something is wrong with fan? Or maybe something is wrong with O2 sensor, I think if you aren't in a burn cycle is should show around 21% maybe check to what it's showing when it's idling
@@Treestofirewood actually thinking on it more, have you cleaned out the back area near the fans/turbulaters? Maybe the bolts on the back plate aren't tightened so the fan is sucking air from there instead of the firebox?
The g series is an engineering disaster. How much did you pay for that? How many hours of cleaning it out now? How much did you mess with it the first year after being brand spanking new? Did heat master reimburse you for your time? Utter ridiculous!
Long story short.. I had one.. for just one season and told heat master to get it the fuck off my property. I have been running the c series with 98% less issues btw.. Almost none really.
I also previously used to build rocket stoves to heat my homes that tested at 95% or better efficiency. I had zero dirty burns with my builds.. I repeat ZERO creosote in 4 years of use. I could eat off my exhaust pipes(chimney). G series is trash burns with trash heating output. Heat master needs to study up on what gasification is supposed to look like. It's bullshit.. you just wasted your money for something you'll constantly be messing with.
The blower needs to be in front of the fire if at all. The heat exchangers needs to be at least 4 times the surface area with less narrow restriction points. The current design creates too much turbulence too far down the pipe. The only turbulence should be at or near the hottest point of the system. Otherwise the later cooling will bring water and smoke together and create built up. It's a bad design. I felt your pain in your expressed frustration with the operation of the unit. Good luck friend.
Which c series did you get? I’m really considering the c 800. Also when burning super dry wood in your c how much smoke do you get coming out. That’s the only thing I am concerned about is it puffing away all the time.
@@Treestofirewood If you have super dry wood, it will puff a little smoke when it's not running, especially if it's warm out, but it's pretty mild overall. When it goes into a burn cycle, dry wood burns very clean. Honestly the wetwood will just smoke a little longer trying to get the moisture out, but with that blower fan on that bed of coals is just getting quite a hot fire going. A hot fire is the only way to have a clean burn.. So I generally feel okay about it. The upper chambers for cleaning out and the chimney itself I have maybe deliberately cleaned out two times in the last three or four years. And never once has there exhaust pathway been actually impeded in any sort of way that I could tell. The unit just runs clean generally speaking. I have the c 150, but The next up size would have been a good choice too. I have a family member that has one and loves it.
@matthewboersma7185 yeah I’m definitely considering a c series.
@@Treestofirewood I'm all for the gasification concept, but the c series you are going to love more. And even if you like the g series.. your gunna have problems. That kind of money spent should not come with problems. It should just work. The c series will just work and you will sleep like a baby in comparison.. trust me.
Lastly, another thing against the g series. They rate the efficiency on those units on how many pounds of woods vs how many BTUs they get according to new EPA rules. However this DOES NOT translate to burn efficiency. It's just efficiency on capturing heat from the burn. The g series burns inconsistent... Where they get efficiency is in the heat capture. But if you ask me you get more from your wood when if burns clean and upkeep is effortless. You can feed a c series unsplit logs too. So it's cut down on splitting about 90%. Talk about efficiency.. the c series is the way to go hands down even if you are loosing a little more heat out the top of the chimney.
@matthewboersma7185 yeah that is kind of my mind set as of now. Will definitely entertain a c series in the near future.