Get my 'Hold Strong' Shirt: rlnk.cc/paskmakesholdstrongshirt When I asked in my recent Parser drill video whether I should make this Punch and die video there were a lot of requests for it. So here it is, hopefully you enjoy it I had a great time making it. Also Thanks to Corin for sending me the steel ( instagram.com/corin_at_gameco/ ) and Luke for helping with the heat treat ( instagram.com/make_smith/ ).
Hey, I work on industrial punches for a living. A few fine points: There should always be a clearance between the punch and die; soft stuff like brass and aluminium wants about 5% of material thickness, 10% for mild steel, and maybe more for hard stuff like stainless up to about 20%. Also, you only need 1 mm of penetration into the die, as the material snaps off before then. Another point, is that the force required to break through is totally dependent on the perimeter of the cut, not the surface area, so to minimize the force required for the cut, you can grind an angle on the cutting face, so the whole thing isn't brought to bear at once. Keep up the good work, that was another in a long series of great videos.
Excellent info. Do you need a relief angle on the punch (as in, not have the sides of the punch parallel with the direction that the punch moves) or is it ok for the punch to have parallel sides?
That's really awesome info Jeff, thanks for that. I did know about the clearance and did plan to mention it but forgot. I didn't feel I had the ability to work to those sort of tolerances with files and knew there would be some sort of clearance as I wouldn't be able to get the fit super precise. The force required is interesting. I wasn't super confident it'd work but I'm very happy with the results. :)
@@benash2954 yeah, you don’t need a draft angle like a mold, straight sides work great. The cut itself is a totally 2 dimensional thing. All the work takes place right at the intersection between punch & die
Paint the faces of your file guide with layout fluid or permanent marker ink. It buys you a few file kisses that you can easily see before hitting the carbide
It was actually really cool to see this process. I work in a metal stamping factory and run various presses, but I've never seen how a die is made. I also tend to work team presses, they hit at anywhere from 250 to 600 ton. They can go higher but all the parts I've made on the big presses usually fall into that range
Thanks - I have nothing against CNC's though and maybe something I'll look at in the future. I don't think a CNC would get a lot of use in my workshop but would be handy for certain projects. :)
Amazing project again Neil! The patience and skill in these projects is very respectable. I also really enjoy that you have taken up metal work as well, just another way to express your creativity, keep it up! 👌🏻
Making a Punch and Die _by hand_ to punch out sheet metal is very impressive. You have to be very precise to get proper looking results and your punched out pieces look amazing!
I too enjoy a bit of filing it's soothing and calms my nerves didn't know other people enjoyed it, thought I was weird lol. Loved the outcome. Great work
I burst out laughing at the rubber sound effects! Excellent video, I must have missed the last one with the drill-any-shape tool, I'll have to go back and see it too!
Wow Neil, I already had severe workshop envy. It's now been compounded along with a feeling of technical inadequacy! I love your channel and your wonderful talents.
Wow! Don't even imagine that it was possible to make punch and die with file! But I guess this is how it was done before milling machine, CNC or wire cutting . Great job, as usual Thanks for sharing
I find it so fulfilling to get answers to questions I never knew I had, never having given thought to how this sort of "incidental" inlay (as opposed to marquetry/inlay) was done. Thank you for the education as well as for the entertaining quality of your videos.This is one of the most "watchable" channels on RUclips, one I am very pleased to have discovered!
It's really interesting to watch how the punch & die are made; it's a process I've never seen before. Along with the Parser drill, it's a cool way to make your logo cutouts. Whether it's a project for something you need, or something that just seems like it'd be cool to try, your projects never fail to be great.
Love it. I am reasonably knowledgeable about woodworking, and can figure out most ww projects. But you are teaching me about metalworking, and I could see myself doing some of this. Thanks so much.
Wow, Neil, that was great. Your shop has all the fun toys and your skills are matching. Well done, Mate. And yes having an inlaid logo on something you make, makes it even better!
Excited to see you got the mill up and running. Looking forward to seeing some wood & metal chips getting cut on it. 👍👍 You could also use the punch to stamp you logo into a project too.
Awesome. Another (potential) idea would be to make the punch a teeny bit smaller than the die, and use black (or other color) CA or epoxy to give it a little outline pop.
I just found you last week with the Parser drill video. And today this punch & die video. Your stuff is amazing. I'll have to go through your archives and see 'em all!
On your file guide you should counter sink your bolt heads and use some button head Allen screws that will sit below the surface. That will allow you to get it in the vice all the way.
That is awesome!! Starting to think that there is no limit to your creativity and ability to learn new skills 🤔 Definitely a great thing as we all love watching those skills being put to work 👍👍👍👍👍
so happy to see it come to life and be optimized in such a way! Thank you for sharing again and teaching us all about a technique and its wonderful details
Great Die work, and great Patience Filing!! Couple of things: If you were to drill a Hole for a Pin to locate the top Cutting Die -- it would save a Future loosening of the screw holding it , getting skewed, and possibly ruining the cutter edge. Also , I would have drilled and counter sunk some socket head cap screws for the base die, again Pinning it in place with at least 1/8" Pins, again to make it rigid, and to save all that welding and side screwing action. If you are determined to use that process, slightly angling the screws in a downward angle would cure that Lifting problem. Subscribed!
Nicely done Sir! Learned a few things too. Now I'll need to figure out what memory's I lost to make room for the "D2" info PLUS all the rest I've seen and heard for the first time!
8:16 is soooo satisfying. If you add a tiny bit of relief to the sides of the punch and the back of the die, the bits will pop out more easily , and you'll get a better edge finish fwiw.
Nice project, reminds me of my apprenticeship as a tool and die maker in the 1970's. During the apprenticeship we also had to make those tools by hand using files. The first 6 months was really filing only (more or less) before we learned machining. Your tool looks well done and it does the job nicely. Btw if you would have hardened the punch before you could have used the punch and you press to precisely make the die. It also look to me that you made the gap between the punch and die just right. Although the exact measures of your logo inlay are really not important. The gap is dependent on the thickness of your sheet metal and the shear strength of the material you punch,
Just a thought to stop the die from lifting: Drill a shallow conical divot into the sides of the die where they meet each holding screw, a fraction (maybe 0.5mm or less) higher than the screw holes you tapped in the side pieces. Grind a corresponding point/cone onto the end of each screw. and when you tighten the screws they'll pull the die down, kinda like draw-boring a tenon joint.
I assume someone else has already commented this but I didn’t see it, d2 is called d2 because it is a deep hardening alloy meaning instead of a skin layer of material hardening when it’s quenched, it hardens much deeper due to the chromium content and carbon content and its added thermal conductivity. This is why its so great for large items like dies due to the fact that it can reach max hardness throughout the material with an air quench which is a much less aggressive quenching process. It’s formulated to harden even when a large piece with tons of thermal innertia has to be heat treated throughout the part. Dies large gears, stamping dies and drill bits and large shear blades and stuff are the most common applications. Its an engineering marvel of a material.
hi, I'm am ex Toolmaker and when I was in my trade we used to use Copper Sulphate for marking out, it can be bought on the net as in crystal form and mixed with distilled water, it actually makes up a light blue liquid and when applied turns a copper colour (it is recommended to mix the crystals with battery acid, but this is hard to get hold of) and the water mix is safer anyway. You simply need to clean the face to be marked out with emery cloth and then not touch it with your fingers again until after the copper sulphate has dried. Your scribe marks will stay clear until you you have finished your filing and machining.
You could also get some printable acid resist paper and etch in the rest of you logo or numbers if you're someone who likes to number pieces. I did that in my jewelry class in college and it's really easy and fun. Add in a little patina and an etched logo looks awesome!
My God, do you have some serious tools! Half the fun of watching is discovering tools I never knew existed. Who knew there was such a thing as a file guide? I will be purchasing one post-haste.
Nice make, and a cool marker! I have never seen a marker like that. I searched and found that it's an "Empire long tip black marker" available only in Austrailia!! You have a lot of patience with a file my friend! Rock on!
D2 is the AISI classification, and the equivalent UNS classification is T20812. High Chromium grade tool steel. Source: My trusty and timeless Machinery's Handbook (31st Edition)! Very good for tool and die work! Awesome video, subscribed!
I worked in a heat treatment facility for years, and theres three or so main grades. A, which is air hardening steel, O, which is oil hardening, and D, which is a high carbon chromium steel made for tools. Theres some other like H, which are usually an air hardening tool stool meant to keep their temper while working at high temps which is what brings me to this comment, as most of the dies ive heat treated over the years were H13 or S7, which is more shock resistant for forging dies usually.
Get my 'Hold Strong' Shirt: rlnk.cc/paskmakesholdstrongshirt
When I asked in my recent Parser drill video whether I should make this Punch and die video there were a lot of requests for it. So here it is, hopefully you enjoy it I had a great time making it.
Also Thanks to Corin for sending me the steel ( instagram.com/corin_at_gameco/ ) and Luke for helping with the heat treat ( instagram.com/make_smith/ ).
45
444
ㄷㄱ
Hey, I work on industrial punches for a living. A few fine points:
There should always be a clearance between the punch and die; soft stuff like brass and aluminium wants about 5% of material thickness, 10% for mild steel, and maybe more for hard stuff like stainless up to about 20%. Also, you only need 1 mm of penetration into the die, as the material snaps off before then. Another point, is that the force required to break through is totally dependent on the perimeter of the cut, not the surface area, so to minimize the force required for the cut, you can grind an angle on the cutting face, so the whole thing isn't brought to bear at once. Keep up the good work, that was another in a long series of great videos.
Wow great information! Thanks for this.
Excellent info. Do you need a relief angle on the punch (as in, not have the sides of the punch parallel with the direction that the punch moves) or is it ok for the punch to have parallel sides?
That's really awesome info Jeff, thanks for that. I did know about the clearance and did plan to mention it but forgot. I didn't feel I had the ability to work to those sort of tolerances with files and knew there would be some sort of clearance as I wouldn't be able to get the fit super precise.
The force required is interesting. I wasn't super confident it'd work but I'm very happy with the results. :)
@@benash2954 yeah, you don’t need a draft angle like a mold, straight sides work great. The cut itself is a totally 2 dimensional thing. All the work takes place right at the intersection between punch & die
@@jeffpillasch5877 Thanks!
Your patience with a file is remarkable. Excellent work sir!
LOL You've never seen Chris from Clickspring, have you?
Btw I agree with you. Neil makes really fantastic pieces of art!
good tools help a lot
Truer words have not be spoken
Paint the faces of your file guide with layout fluid or permanent marker ink. It buys you a few file kisses that you can easily see before hitting the carbide
grate idea
FILE KISSES
aww
It was actually really cool to see this process. I work in a metal stamping factory and run various presses, but I've never seen how a die is made. I also tend to work team presses, they hit at anywhere from 250 to 600 ton. They can go higher but all the parts I've made on the big presses usually fall into that range
You, sir, are an artist with a hand file. Kudos and hats off, gentlemen, a master at work!
Congratulations - these last two videos are exceptionally creative and very functional.
Glad you enjoyed them Greg! :)
I applaud your patience to hand file that much.
The result looks great
Wow! Thumb in the eye of all those cnc videos! Pask you're always awesome.
Thanks - I have nothing against CNC's though and maybe something I'll look at in the future. I don't think a CNC would get a lot of use in my workshop but would be handy for certain projects. :)
Always enjoyable to observe as you walk through your projects. Great result!
Thanks June - glad you enjoyed it! :)
Amazing project again Neil! The patience and skill in these projects is very respectable. I also really enjoy that you have taken up metal work as well, just another way to express your creativity, keep it up! 👌🏻
Making a Punch and Die _by hand_ to punch out sheet metal is very impressive. You have to be very precise to get proper looking results and your punched out pieces look amazing!
Thanks very much! :)
I too enjoy a bit of filing it's soothing and calms my nerves didn't know other people enjoyed it, thought I was weird lol. Loved the outcome. Great work
I burst out laughing at the rubber sound effects!
Excellent video, I must have missed the last one with the drill-any-shape tool, I'll have to go back and see it too!
Very impressive display of precision! That parser bit is incredible
Wow Neil, I already had severe workshop envy. It's now been compounded along with a feeling of technical inadequacy! I love your channel and your wonderful talents.
Wow! Don't even imagine that it was possible to make punch and die with file! But I guess this is how it was done before milling machine, CNC or wire cutting .
Great job, as usual
Thanks for sharing
Pretty neat, you never cease to amaze Neil
I find it so fulfilling to get answers to questions I never knew I had, never having given thought to how this sort of "incidental" inlay (as opposed to marquetry/inlay) was done. Thank you for the education as well as for the entertaining quality of your videos.This is one of the most "watchable" channels on RUclips, one I am very pleased to have discovered!
It's really interesting to watch how the punch & die are made; it's a process I've never seen before. Along with the Parser drill, it's a cool way to make your logo cutouts. Whether it's a project for something you need, or something that just seems like it'd be cool to try, your projects never fail to be great.
Real satisfying when that first one pops off w the lil red rubber stripper thing. Well done, as always 😁
The stripper really did work fantastic! :)
subtle way to add authenticity
Love it. I am reasonably knowledgeable about woodworking, and can figure out most ww projects. But you are teaching me about metalworking, and I could see myself doing some of this. Thanks so much.
one of the
reasons I like Pask so much is he does not peg himself into any particular mold. He is a maker in the true sense of the word,
Thanks Angelino, that's great to hear! :)
That’s awesome. Can’t wait for these as a maker mark 👍
Wow, Neil, that was great. Your shop has all the fun toys and your skills are matching. Well done, Mate. And yes having an inlaid logo on something you make, makes it even better!
They add a real touch of class to your projects. Great idea and implementation. Cheers!
Loving the variety of entertainment you are giving us Nice project looks awesome looking forward to seeing what you’re going to do next
I may try this myself. I feel it’s a good combination of using power tools and fine meditative craftsmanship. Thanks!
Excited to see you got the mill up and running. Looking forward to seeing some wood & metal chips getting cut on it. 👍👍 You could also use the punch to stamp you logo into a project too.
Of course it turns up after you've started! Your filing was excellent, incredible patience 👍
Super cool!!! That's a fun signature to leave behind
This is a grand project!
Thank you! :)
Thank you for building and posting this video of your punch and dye. I'm so glad you decided to make it in the end. Brilliant work!
Awesome. Another (potential) idea would be to make the punch a teeny bit smaller than the die, and use black (or other color) CA or epoxy to give it a little outline pop.
I just found you last week with the Parser drill video. And today this punch & die video. Your stuff is amazing. I'll have to go through your archives and see 'em all!
You're far beyond a DIY Maker..... a plastic artist in my opinion. Watch yours encourage me on starting my own. Long live your channel.
Super cool as always! I love how you always make all the accompanying stuff for all your big projects, like the Parser drill in this case.
On your file guide you should counter sink your bolt heads and use some button head Allen screws that will sit below the surface. That will allow you to get it in the vice all the way.
That is awesome!! Starting to think that there is no limit to your creativity and ability to learn new skills 🤔 Definitely a great thing as we all love watching those skills being put to work 👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks for doing this one in addition to the pass-through drill bit. It's nice to see all the components of the project!
Damn now that’s dedication the way you filed them by hand
so happy to see it come to life and be optimized in such a way!
Thank you for sharing again and teaching us all about a technique and its wonderful details
Wonderful and ingenious as always.
Fantastic work, Neil! Nicely done!!! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Great companion to the amazing Parser drill!
That's a really elegant way to have your makers mark.
Great Die work, and great Patience Filing!! Couple of things: If you were to drill a Hole for a Pin to locate the top Cutting Die -- it would save a Future loosening of the screw holding it , getting skewed, and possibly ruining the cutter edge. Also , I would have drilled and counter sunk some socket head cap screws for the base die, again Pinning it in place with at least 1/8" Pins, again to make it rigid, and to save all that welding and side screwing action. If you are determined to use that process, slightly angling the screws in a downward angle
would cure that Lifting problem. Subscribed!
You never cease to amaze my friend. Well done! 👏👏👏👏
This is beyond my setup now, but I always learn useful information from your videos... thanks for sharing this great set of tools
Glad you enjoyed it! :)
Facinating and remarkable, Neil. That was brilliant and also fun to watch.
Nicely done Sir! Learned a few things too. Now I'll need to figure out what memory's I lost to make room for the "D2" info PLUS all the rest I've seen and heard for the first time!
You made straight lines by curved files, I can't understand how magical your skilled hands are.
8:16 is soooo satisfying.
If you add a tiny bit of relief to the sides of the punch and the back of the die, the bits will pop out more easily , and you'll get a better edge finish fwiw.
Always a good day with one of your videos Neil, bonus when it has sound effects, always puts a smile on my face.
Thank you - glad you enjoyed it! :)
Best way to add a logo Ive seen! Nice work
Yes, yes I enjoyed that very much! Nicely done!
Yes dude I sure liked that little excercise you undertook, pleasing to watch the end result and your satisfaction. Thanks for sharing.
Nice project, reminds me of my apprenticeship as a tool and die maker in the 1970's. During the apprenticeship we also had to make those tools by hand using files. The first 6 months was really filing only (more or less) before we learned machining.
Your tool looks well done and it does the job nicely.
Btw if you would have hardened the punch before you could have used the punch and you press to precisely make the die.
It also look to me that you made the gap between the punch and die just right. Although the exact measures of your logo inlay are really not important. The gap is dependent on the thickness of your sheet metal and the shear strength of the material you punch,
Where about to write the exact same thing 😀, I was one of the last in Denmark that learned to make dies with a file when I was an apprentice.
Really cool process!
🐼 Big Bear Hugs from a 68 yr old grandma in Kirby, Texas, USA 🐼 ❤️ 🎀 ❤️ 🎀 ❤️ 🎀
Just a thought to stop the die from lifting: Drill a shallow conical divot into the sides of the die where they meet each holding screw, a fraction (maybe 0.5mm or less) higher than the screw holes you tapped in the side pieces. Grind a corresponding point/cone onto the end of each screw. and when you tighten the screws they'll pull the die down, kinda like draw-boring a tenon joint.
I assume someone else has already commented this but I didn’t see it, d2 is called d2 because it is a deep hardening alloy meaning instead of a skin layer of material hardening when it’s quenched, it hardens much deeper due to the chromium content and carbon content and its added thermal conductivity. This is why its so great for large items like dies due to the fact that it can reach max hardness throughout the material with an air quench which is a much less aggressive quenching process. It’s formulated to harden even when a large piece with tons of thermal innertia has to be heat treated throughout the part. Dies large gears, stamping dies and drill bits and large shear blades and stuff are the most common applications. Its an engineering marvel of a material.
That has come out great.
Very nice job. Turned out very well there. Hopefully you get great use out of it my friend. Keep making. God bless.
Wow. This is really amazing work. Really professional and the quality is impeccable. Well done.
Yet another great video, thanks.
My only gripe is - You make it all look so easy!
keep them coming, Stay Blessed.
While the parser drill is probably my favorite of your videos this takes it a whole new level. Nice one.
Amazing project! Thanks so much for sharing.
That's great ! And Luke has all the works. 👍
hi, I'm am ex Toolmaker and when I was in my trade we used to use Copper Sulphate for marking out, it can be bought on the net as in crystal form and mixed with distilled water, it actually makes up a light blue liquid and when applied turns a copper colour (it is recommended to mix the crystals with battery acid, but this is hard to get hold of) and the water mix is safer anyway.
You simply need to clean the face to be marked out with emery cloth and then not touch it with your fingers again until after the copper sulphate has dried. Your scribe marks will stay clear until you you have finished your filing and machining.
You could also get some printable acid resist paper and etch in the rest of you logo or numbers if you're someone who likes to number pieces. I did that in my jewelry class in college and it's really easy and fun. Add in a little patina and an etched logo looks awesome!
One of my favourite videos this year!!!
Watching a craftsman build is rather calming.
Fantastic. Information I will certainly be using in the future. Cheers J
Glad it was helpful Joshua! :)
Very clever. Nice work!
Really nice work there. Human water jet 😃
cool process love the stopper zoonk hahahaha
Wow, that is pretty precise work. And what a cool way to mark your pieces!
Neat project, it was fun to watch!
My God, do you have some serious tools! Half the fun of watching is discovering tools I never knew existed. Who knew there was such a thing as a file guide? I will be purchasing one post-haste.
Dude - Absolutely great vid. Elegant and functional. Than you.
That was a very cool series of videos.
That’s some great work mate, it came up awesome. 😀
that's a neat way of adding a makers mark. You could also punch initialis into the brass for further identification
Great video, as always.
Nice make, and a cool marker! I have never seen a marker like that. I searched and found that it's an
"Empire long tip black marker" available only in Austrailia!! You have a lot of patience with a file my friend! Rock on!
Wow, I was looking for that marker too, thanks
That makers mark being brass is awesome.
Nice work. That looks great.
Master of detail...
D2 is the AISI classification, and the equivalent UNS classification is T20812. High Chromium grade tool steel. Source: My trusty and timeless Machinery's Handbook (31st Edition)! Very good for tool and die work! Awesome video, subscribed!
This echos the first thing I thought. "High carbon" is faint praise for D2!
This was a very timely video, you have helped me with the details of a project I hadn't worked out yet! Thanks for the great content!
You have admirable skills and fabrication tools. And your friend down the road too!
Tu sei fantasticamente matto. I realky enjoy watching your videos
Nothing compared with you! You are at another level!
Man, you're such a genius!
What a great video - again!
Well done Pask.
👍 respect for the craftsmanship my friend!
This was a great video
Good tool, and fantastic results
I worked in a heat treatment facility for years, and theres three or so main grades. A, which is air hardening steel, O, which is oil hardening, and D, which is a high carbon chromium steel made for tools. Theres some other like H, which are usually an air hardening tool stool meant to keep their temper while working at high temps which is what brings me to this comment, as most of the dies ive heat treated over the years were H13 or S7, which is more shock resistant for forging dies usually.
That looks so cool