Good afternoon Don, its Tea time here in merrybold England, and I'm just settling in to visit a spell with you, nice and chilled, thank you for sharing buddy
You’re right about gibs. It’s frustrating at times. I’ve found that with a DRO, I can control it better. So when I get where I want and tighten the gib, it always moves in the same direction. Almost always by 0.00019” yeah, that’s a lot of decimals. When I bought my DROs, I bought the 1 micron scales. The readout reads to five decimals. I can usually ignore that amount of movement. I find if I move where I’m going with a slight amount of pressure on the gib, it only moves that much, which is acceptable, rather than two or three thousandths if the gib is loose when moving. But, if it’s not, I just carefully move short of where I’m going, or move a bit more, depending on the direction, and it tightens to zero. I’ll tell you that these Chinese DROs are pretty good. I buy the TuAuto. They’re really good and reasonably priced. They have a number of videos up showing how to use these, if it’s needed. I moved to the touch screen readouts. I put one in my lathe as well. I have the tailstock set as the Z axis. I don’t like using calipers as a lot of guys do as they’re accurate to, at best, plus or minus 0.001 and usually 0.0015”. Same thing for the mill.
I've got the lcd ToAuto dro setup on the lathe and mill. The 2 axis doesn't do proper diameter mode( I have 1/2 the diameter after input), did they fix it with the touch screen ones? My lathe and mill both move when I lock them, 5um dro definitely helps with accuracy and repeatability 👍👌🇦🇺
@@adhawk5632 it seems fine. You have to be careful how you set the number of digits. With the 1um scales you can use all five. With the 5um scales you use the four digit settings. It can be difficult to set as it’s a bit difficult to understand. If you don’t get it right, your readings can be inaccurate. The 1um scales do t cost that much more than the 5um, but are of course, five times as accurate.
I have a good DRO on the Jig Borer. This old mill, I am planning on rigging it up with micrometer end measuring rods and tenths indicators. If I was trying to use this mill commercially, a three axis DRO would be a must. This mill is really good for repair work but like the Axelson lathe, not so good for commercial work in these times, just built too heavy and slow to use. I removed a Mitutoyo DRO off the Axelson lathe and put a TravAdial on it.
You would probably be an excellent resource.... I'd like to find WW2 machine tool related art for wall decor in my shop, especially Cincinnati and Leblond..... enjoy your channel!
I have just poked around on the internet for what I have. From what I have seen the best images are from the WW2 news reels, but I don't know how to go about it.
Hi Don, the criterion microset dial shows a range of "30", apparently tenths. somehow when that dial is used, it must add to or further offset the other .001" dial. What is the offsetting mechanism inside the top dial? What do you do when you want to make a precision enlargement of .00044, in one move? Are you fated to making three adjustments to incrementally get an increase of .00044? Where are you going to put your cleaned-up radial drill?
The outer ring with the graduations has an eccentric hole that moves or cams the head back .0015" for a .003" diameter increase by .0001" and can hold +- .0001" on the jig borer. So, with this head the final size has to be with in .006" the first finish cut chopping that to under .003", the last cut taking what is left measured in tenths of a thousandth on the 0 to 30 upper scale. One of the ways I cheat this whole system is use the Sunnen Hone for finishing to sub tenths with ease. The drill, old Johson band saw and Manly 50 ton press will be moved to the front of the shack and enclosed soon as I can, thanks!
The best cutting lubrication is on CNC machines with a fire hose of cutting fluid on the work and even through the cutter. The bees wax based lube I use was once more common with commercial offerings usually containing paraffin wax that does work but not as well as bees wax. wd40 is used by many for cutting aluminum, it has paraffin wax that helps with chip weld. The bees wax has a higher flash point and flows toward heat better so chemicals like tapping fluid can be mixed with it. Being that I am doing repair work and flood coolant is hard to maintain in several machines and not used in jig borers, wax is a good alterative. Thanks.
@@DonDyarprecision Yes, I understand all of that, but I'm questioning why the common practise seems to be to put the lubricant on the work, instead of the tool, when it seems to me that putting it on the tool places it between the tool and the forming chip, instead of on the outside of the forming chip, away from the cutting edge.
Good afternoon Don, its Tea time here in merrybold England, and I'm just settling in to visit a spell with you, nice and chilled, thank you for sharing buddy
Tea time here too most of the time, thanks for tuning in Ralfy!
Good Morning my friend......best wishes form the Sunshine State......raining like a herd of cattle peeing on a big ole flat rock here....Paulie Brown
Hello from Smalla Walla!
You’re right about gibs. It’s frustrating at times. I’ve found that with a DRO, I can control it better. So when I get where I want and tighten the gib, it always moves in the same direction. Almost always by 0.00019” yeah, that’s a lot of decimals. When I bought my DROs, I bought the 1 micron scales. The readout reads to five decimals. I can usually ignore that amount of movement. I find if I move where I’m going with a slight amount of pressure on the gib, it only moves that much, which is acceptable, rather than two or three thousandths if the gib is loose when moving. But, if it’s not, I just carefully move short of where I’m going, or move a bit more, depending on the direction, and it tightens to zero. I’ll tell you that these Chinese DROs are pretty good. I buy the TuAuto. They’re really good and reasonably priced. They have a number of videos up showing how to use these, if it’s needed. I moved to the touch screen readouts. I put one in my lathe as well. I have the tailstock set as the Z axis. I don’t like using calipers as a lot of guys do as they’re accurate to, at best, plus or minus 0.001 and usually 0.0015”. Same thing for the mill.
I've got the lcd ToAuto dro setup on the lathe and mill. The 2 axis doesn't do proper diameter mode( I have 1/2 the diameter after input), did they fix it with the touch screen ones? My lathe and mill both move when I lock them, 5um dro definitely helps with accuracy and repeatability 👍👌🇦🇺
@@adhawk5632 it seems fine. You have to be careful how you set the number of digits. With the 1um scales you can use all five. With the 5um scales you use the four digit settings. It can be difficult to set as it’s a bit difficult to understand. If you don’t get it right, your readings can be inaccurate. The 1um scales do t cost that much more than the 5um, but are of course, five times as accurate.
@@melgross I'm all metric, 4 decimals
@@adhawk5632 I switch between metric and inch as I need to.
I have a good DRO on the Jig Borer. This old mill, I am planning on rigging it up with micrometer end measuring rods and tenths indicators. If I was trying to use this mill commercially, a three axis DRO would be a must. This mill is really good for repair work but like the Axelson lathe, not so good for commercial work in these times, just built too heavy and slow to use. I removed a Mitutoyo DRO off the Axelson lathe and put a TravAdial on it.
The audio with the microphone setup is much improved, your voice is now heard clearly over the machine noise.
Thanks, I think this will help greatly
Hey Don, youtube cut your feed, but I got you back. Thanks for the channel!! 👍
Not a stable or friendly platform for craftsmen that have no trinkets for sale. . Thanks for tuning in!
@@DonDyarprecision my pleasure!! no 'trinkets' required.👍
thank you
You're welcome
You would probably be an excellent resource.... I'd like to find WW2 machine tool related art for wall decor in my shop, especially Cincinnati and Leblond..... enjoy your channel!
I have just poked around on the internet for what I have. From what I have seen the best images are from the WW2 news reels, but I don't know how to go about it.
@@DonDyarprecision thank you for the reply!
The sound is perfect now what difference that mic . has made !
Kit from down under
It looks like this will work much better! Thanks!
Hi Don, the criterion microset dial shows a range of "30", apparently tenths. somehow when that dial is used, it must add to or further offset the other .001" dial. What is the offsetting mechanism inside the top dial? What do you do when you want to make a precision enlargement of .00044, in one move? Are you fated to making three adjustments to incrementally get an increase of .00044? Where are you going to put your cleaned-up radial drill?
The outer ring with the graduations has an eccentric hole that moves or cams the head back .0015" for a .003" diameter increase by .0001" and can hold +- .0001" on the jig borer.
So, with this head the final size has to be with in .006" the first finish cut chopping that to under .003", the last cut taking what is left measured in tenths of a thousandth on the 0 to 30 upper scale. One of the ways I cheat this whole system is use the Sunnen Hone for finishing to sub tenths with ease.
The drill, old Johson band saw and Manly 50 ton press will be moved to the front of the shack and enclosed soon as I can, thanks!
Dang DD, the ole rig is sounded real good...we call that grey fluffy mess a MUFF!
Thanks, the sound has been a problem with every camera.
Ok Don, since you brought it up, ("apply some wax to prevent chip weld") why do we almost always apply lubricant to the work, and not the tool?
The best cutting lubrication is on CNC machines with a fire hose of cutting fluid on the work and even through the cutter.
The bees wax based lube I use was once more common with commercial offerings usually containing paraffin wax that does work but not as well as bees wax. wd40 is used by many for cutting aluminum, it has paraffin wax that helps with chip weld. The bees wax has a higher flash point and flows toward heat better so chemicals like tapping fluid can be mixed with it. Being that I am doing repair work and flood coolant is hard to maintain in several machines and not used in jig borers, wax is a good alterative. Thanks.
@@DonDyarprecision Yes, I understand all of that, but I'm questioning why the common practise seems to be to put the lubricant on the work, instead of the tool, when it seems to me that putting it on the tool places it between the tool and the forming chip, instead of on the outside of the forming chip, away from the cutting edge.