Thank you for this video!! Really takes me back! I worked in a small machine shop in Cornwells Heights Pa. with my Dad when I was still in high school back in the '70s. I would almost swear this was one of the actual machines I ran there! 😂 I learned from a great supervisor how to set up the machines myself, inspect the work, and eventually I was setting up jobs for guys who had been there all their lives but only wanted to be operators. We had mostly Govt contracts, producing tank parts. After I graduated high school I continued working for them for 7 years, and even came back to work some part time after I had moved on to a career in electronics. We had two millers like this one, two larger Cincinnati's, 3 Bridgeports, 2 vertical Victoria's, one small automatic miler that I hated... I ran a broaching machine and sometimes helped on the drill presses. My Dad was mostly on the automatics and turret lathes. But I will always remember the days working with those guys, the skills I learned and our pride in the parts we produced! Thanks again!
I definitely think a horizontal mill makes the nicest keyways. I had some really embarrassing excuses for keyways made for me in the past with vertical mills. Too often the chip load was way too high and the end mill would deflect sideways resulting in an slightly off center keyway with what looked like keyhole ends, and in at least one case the shaft wasn’t centered. Gotta chuckle watching you bend down to look at the tool and workpiece on that Cinnci. Exactly like my Toolmaster when I don’t have it on riser blocks. Cinnci must have thought all machinists are gnomes.
Josh....I notice someone also addressed that you could clamp down to the slot of the table...that a better way to set up...(No vibration or playing with a indicator) Use a 1/2" cutter to "rougth cut" if you have one then finish off with the 5/8" ...use a piece of 1/8" brass between the clamp across the top of the shaft...More accurate way to mill the keyway in the shaft. You did good. Cincinnati Mills to me a the best. "No substitute for experience"...................................Robbie
We had a job that came in the shop occasionally. Drive shaft for Landis crankshaft pin grinders. The shaft connected the the two workheads so that they rotated in sync. These shafts had long keyways down most of their length. First one l did was set up by the day shift. I followed up and finished the job. All done, break down the set-up and it bowed like a banana. Material was 1.5" 4140 TG&P prehard. About 30 RC. We wanted the extra hardness to prevent wear on the drive side of the keyway. To prevent the shaft from bowing used a Formula 62 stress relieving machine. Worked like a charm.
As close to the cutter as you can get it. I have some parts that have to be pushed out a way to clear the vise with the support, but I know the limitations.
I use CNC router since 2001, always cutting everything but steel. And I never cut in one pass unless it's thin or easy. Hard materials like acrylic, MDF, or wood, always using passes.
Great job @josh. You and CEE are the two best machine channels on RUclips. Thank you for all you give back to the community. I recently traded my Abene universal mill for a much more rigid Cincinnati with a 40 taper and a quill. I am on the look out for a K&T or a Cincinnati Horizontal Mill now.
When you only have one shot for a good part, set up is everything. I was a little surprised that you were able to do it in one pass but I do not know the limits of your machine. I am glad that you got it done right the first time. 😃😃😃😃😃😃 Good to see you first thing in the morning.
I think the type of material being cut makes all the difference here. Looks like steel , which is on the soft side. Plus he did not tell us what his tolerances were. Ran these machines in the 80’s then the shop switched over to all CNC. I did not miss running these open machines at all. Especially when face milling with carbide cutters. The sharp chips on the floor would eat up the soles of your shoes. Also the downside of machine shops were poor ventilation, especially in the winter. Cutting oil and fluids were not healthy.
@@rayRay-pw6gz I sure understand what you are saying. I working in a small steel fabrication shop as a laser operator. I also had a small cnc plasma cutter and welder at home that I used for a home business. Thanks for the comment. 😏😏😏
I held off for years thinking that all my other indicator stands have worked just fine for many years. I now have 3 Noga mounts. Man I wish I would have got them years ago. In my opinion there’s really no comparison. Money well spent.
Hey Josh really appreciate your time& effort making and creating content for all your subscribers to watch great videos sir! Manual machine shop 👍🏻🇬🇧 all that computerised machine bullsh4t lacks skill and problem solving IMO💯
Dear Josh, if I was setting up a workshop from scratch, would you recommend a horizontal and vertical mill pair or one combined machine? My guess is that the changeover will be the bugbear with a universal machine.
I would do one of each. The horizontal had its good points, but I don't use it all the time. The vertical is the one that gets the most use. Having one of each opens a lot of doors for you. I have 3 verticals if you count the planer mill, and 2 horizontals. The bigger horizontal is my boring mill, and that brings in good paying work.
Josh, you said that you had only one shot to get this right. With the cost of steel today, who bears the remake and the scrap if, God forbid, something was not right?
You have to guarantee your work and cover the cost of any mistakes so your client will continue to send you jobs. The best shops work “with” their clients, not “for” them.
Exactly! I am a vendor of my customers, not their employee. If I screw up, I need to make it correct and eat the cost. If an employee screws up, they will probably get fired, and the company pays for all losses.
To follow up on the cutting oil. Do you use machine cutting oil, motor oil, Ridgid cutting oil, or what? I have a #2 Cincinnati mill also, but like some others don’t know what to use. Bob
I was using some Mobil stuff, but that got hard to get at one point. Then I found some other stuff, can't remember what it was. Last time I added a gallon of SAE 30W nondetergent because it was hat I had on hand. Not sure what I'll use next time, but it will be cheap.
I am running the cheapest oil I can find. Probably need to change it out, its looking nasty. The pump is the factory pump, so I have no idea. Needs a rebuild though.
I have a 2L the pump is missing. Does your mill spindle run in reverse by changing motor direction? My pump drive shaft is still there but was wondering if the pump only works in one spindle direction?
Thank you for this video!! Really takes me back! I worked in a small machine shop in Cornwells Heights Pa. with my Dad when I was still in high school back in the '70s. I would almost swear this was one of the actual machines I ran there! 😂
I learned from a great supervisor how to set up the machines myself, inspect the work, and eventually I was setting up jobs for guys who had been there all their lives but only wanted to be operators. We had mostly Govt contracts, producing tank parts.
After I graduated high school I continued working for them for 7 years, and even came back to work some part time after I had moved on to a career in electronics. We had two millers like this one, two larger Cincinnati's, 3 Bridgeports, 2 vertical Victoria's, one small automatic miler that I hated... I ran a broaching machine and sometimes helped on the drill presses. My Dad was mostly on the automatics and turret lathes. But I will always remember the days working with those guys, the skills I learned and our pride in the parts we produced! Thanks again!
I definitely think a horizontal mill makes the nicest keyways. I had some really embarrassing excuses for keyways made for me in the past with vertical mills. Too often the chip load was way too high and the end mill would deflect sideways resulting in an slightly off center keyway with what looked like keyhole ends, and in at least one case the shaft wasn’t centered.
Gotta chuckle watching you bend down to look at the tool and workpiece on that Cinnci. Exactly like my Toolmaster when I don’t have it on riser blocks. Cinnci must have thought all machinists are gnomes.
Another option for keyways is Stagger Tooth Woodruff Keyseat Cutters. Cut much freer than regular straight tooth cutters.
It was great to see the Cincinnati horizontal mill in action, thanks
Josh....I notice someone also addressed that you could clamp down to the slot of the table...that a better way to set up...(No vibration or playing with a indicator)
Use a 1/2" cutter to "rougth cut" if you have one then finish off with the 5/8" ...use a piece of 1/8" brass between the clamp across the top of the shaft...More accurate way to mill the keyway in the shaft.
You did good.
Cincinnati Mills to me a the best.
"No substitute for experience"...................................Robbie
Great Vid Josh, setup is the key to all successful jobs and you showed that. Keep it going Bud.
We had a job that came in the shop occasionally. Drive shaft for Landis crankshaft pin grinders. The shaft connected the the two workheads so that they rotated in sync. These shafts had long keyways down most of their length. First one l did was set up by the day shift. I followed up and finished the job. All done, break down the set-up and it bowed like a banana. Material was 1.5" 4140 TG&P prehard. About 30 RC. We wanted the extra hardness to prevent wear on the drive side of the keyway. To prevent the shaft from bowing used a Formula 62 stress relieving machine. Worked like a charm.
Greetings from Tasmania Australia-nice to see the old machines still doing a great job. 👍🇦🇺🦘
It's therapeutic watching that thing cut. Great job. Keep up the great work!
Came out well . Good to see the arbor support in the right spot & not way out on the end , like you see so often on YT ! 👍
As close to the cutter as you can get it. I have some parts that have to be pushed out a way to clear the vise with the support, but I know the limitations.
That's an interesting machine and it looks like it's been for around a few years. It certainly does the job right the first time!
I use CNC router since 2001, always cutting everything but steel. And I never cut in one pass unless it's thin or easy.
Hard materials like acrylic, MDF, or wood, always using passes.
The old Cincinnati doug that right out!
Josh, I had in my tool box I kept cigarette papers which were 2 thou so just wet one and stick it on the work piece with both hand free........
Which drawer did you keep your weed in lol?
@@bigdave6447 I don't smoke...you?
@@theessexhunter1305 never have.
Cigarette papers are expansive...I switch over to a old Granger Cataloged.
@@rmsflorida expansive is spelt EXPENSIVE 😁
Love those Cincinnati’s, horizontal mills are awesome in the shop, I do most my keyways by clamping in the t slots. Very nice job
I thought about doing that, but the vises are always on there. Thinking of upgrading vises and going with 3 next time.
Great job @josh. You and CEE are the two best machine channels on RUclips. Thank you for all you give back to the community. I recently traded my Abene universal mill for a much more rigid Cincinnati with a 40 taper and a quill. I am on the look out for a K&T or a Cincinnati Horizontal Mill now.
Me too.
A good heavy horizontal mill can be used for doing some jobs that usually require a Horizontal Boring Mill or Bar
When you only have one shot for a good part, set up is everything. I was a little surprised that you were able to do it in one pass but I do not know the limits of your machine. I am glad that you got it done right the first time. 😃😃😃😃😃😃 Good to see you first thing in the morning.
Thanks, this was a small cut for my machine. I usually push it way harder. Would love to find a No. 3 someday.
I think the type of material being cut makes all the difference here. Looks like steel , which is on the soft side. Plus he did not tell us what his tolerances were. Ran these machines in the 80’s then the shop switched over to all CNC. I did not miss running these open machines at all. Especially when face milling with carbide cutters. The sharp chips on the floor would eat up the soles of your shoes. Also the downside of machine shops were poor ventilation, especially in the winter. Cutting oil and fluids were not healthy.
@@rayRay-pw6gz I sure understand what you are saying. I working in a small steel fabrication shop as a laser operator. I also had a small cnc plasma cutter and welder at home that I used for a home business. Thanks for the comment. 😏😏😏
NOGA indicator mounts are so much easier to use. Pricey…but worth it in my opinion. 😊
If I ever get rich and famous, I would like to get a few.
I held off for years thinking that all my other indicator stands have worked just fine for many years. I now have 3 Noga mounts. Man I wish I would have got them years ago. In my opinion there’s really no comparison. Money well spent.
Hello this is pretty cool dont ever think how much time is set in to make a simple key way. Nice work. Have a great day.
Nice work Josh!
Great job! I love those horizontal mills too I done a few jobs on those machines
Awsome job Josh. 👌
What a beautiful machine, makes my heart happy (y)
nice
Ron Popeil reference? Nice one Josh!
There is a couple good dents in the wall tin on both sides of our cutter from when we had a cutter explode on one of the guys.
Great work, enjoyed..keep up the good work.
Good work as always
Dialing in one Vice is fun, I can’t imagine 2
I am thinking of adding a third! That will be fun.
Great video. I learned a lot from you. It is like going to tech school.
Thanks for the videos!
saludos de santiago de chile
Hey Josh really appreciate your time& effort making and creating content for all your subscribers to watch great videos sir! Manual machine shop 👍🏻🇬🇧 all that computerised machine bullsh4t lacks skill and problem solving IMO💯
100% agree with you.
G'day Josh. Nice work on the keyway. The old Cincinnati made short work of that didn't it. Have a good day. Cheers, Aaron.
Good Stuff
Great video Josh, I would love to find the hardware for my k&t mill to cut horazonal, I've got all kinds of cutters, need to find the rest.
Dear Josh, if I was setting up a workshop from scratch, would you recommend a horizontal and vertical mill pair or one combined machine? My guess is that the changeover will be the bugbear with a universal machine.
I would do one of each. The horizontal had its good points, but I don't use it all the time. The vertical is the one that gets the most use. Having one of each opens a lot of doors for you. I have 3 verticals if you count the planer mill, and 2 horizontals. The bigger horizontal is my boring mill, and that brings in good paying work.
Go to Cutting edge engineering Australia to see how to make a rotary ground clamp
I could do that on the bridgeport with an end mill by the time you had the horizontal set up and ready to start the cut.
Rubbish.
Josh, you said that you had only one shot to get this right. With the cost of steel today, who bears the remake and the scrap if, God forbid, something was not right?
I would, so you don't want to.screw up. This piece of steel was over $600.00, so it wasn't something I want to replace.
You have to guarantee your work and cover the cost of any mistakes so your client will continue to send you jobs. The best shops work “with” their clients, not “for” them.
Exactly! I am a vendor of my customers, not their employee. If I screw up, I need to make it correct and eat the cost. If an employee screws up, they will probably get fired, and the company pays for all losses.
A horizontal mill requires a little more setup but works well.
How do you know 16 inches is to the center of the cutter ?.....how did you get the center of the cutter on the end of the shaft
To follow up on the cutting oil. Do you use machine cutting oil, motor oil,
Ridgid cutting oil, or what?
I have a #2 Cincinnati mill also, but like some others don’t know what to use.
Bob
I was using some Mobil stuff, but that got hard to get at one point. Then I found some other stuff, can't remember what it was. Last time I added a gallon of SAE 30W nondetergent because it was hat I had on hand. Not sure what I'll use next time, but it will be cheap.
Almost all standard paper is 3 thousands. Within less than a tenth of it usually.
Learned something new, Thanks. But does the paper weight make a difference on thickness? 20LB vs 24LB? I may have to measure one of each.
we alwase sanded our keys
who won the grease thing??
never mind
What’s the song name in intro??
What do you run for cutting oil and what do you use for the pump on that Cincinnati?
I am running the cheapest oil I can find. Probably need to change it out, its looking nasty. The pump is the factory pump, so I have no idea. Needs a rebuild though.
I have a 2L the pump is missing. Does your mill spindle run in reverse by changing motor direction? My pump drive shaft is still there but was wondering if the pump only works in one spindle direction?
my spindle is reversed by a lever on the side. It has a thumb screw to lock it into the direction.
Poor thread engagement on "t"bolt.
Cutter not quite running true.
🤘🤘🤘🤘
clean your mill or it won.t stay accurate