A comment about those who think this is going a bit slow. What Keith is showing is what goes into making a specific part. In a real shop, not everything goes smoothly and repetitive happens. It's not all spraying big blue chips. We're getting a glimpse of this and I enjoy watching it. It reminds me that the bumps and do-overs in my shop are not mine alone but part (perhaps most) of life in a noisy and smelly lifestyle.
F--k the comment section like the bag of retards we are. This is why Screwtube is becoming a bunghole of the interweebs. Lay down 15 hours into a 20 minute video and let the retard salad come poop on your work. Like they could even try to do anything comparable. Smack that like and support people who matter.
I believe it was my comment that you are speaking of and that's fine, I just voiced my concern as my level of understanding of machining may be a bit advanced for some. So I apologize for the misunderstanding you may have gotten.
@@fiorevitola880 Nah! I was rubbing my butt on Kens! Ken made a point and I amplified it. Don't get your panties twackered up over nothing spastic. Lay back and have a rub. Not too hard or too high!
That is one of the things I love about Keith's videos. Things don't always go perfectly and then he finds a way to solve the problem. Too many videos have everything PERFECT. And with him you get clues how to cope with the world not being perfect.
Came across one of your early vids that I had watched. 7 years I've been looking forward to the next Rucker Release. Thank You for all the good times & education you have provided. 🖖Live Long & Prosper 🖖
I really appreciate how you explain each of the operations you are doing, and especially, the WHY of what you are doing. I'm a fairly new hobby machinist, and I've learned so much of what I know from watching just a few machinists on RUclips. You make things clear in a way that, for me anyway, is just the right blend of showing and telling. There have been so many times when I've thought, 'Oh, that's why that thing I tried didn't work right!' And, happily, times when I've thought, 'Cool! I did figure out the right way, or at least one right way' to do something on my own. I just retired, and in the last few years bought both a lathe (a 1954 10x24 inch Logan/Montgomery Wards) and a milling machine (a 1960 Clausing 8520). I'm thrilled with the results I've been able to get with just my ham-handed skills and knowledge, and every time I use one or the other, I improve, and can watch the results right as they're happening. So satisfying! Knowing I'm doing something with so much history is also fascinating to me.
It has probably been doing that for sixty years, and you are the first person to do anything about it. That scoring didn't get that deep in a minute. That was a resourceful and clever way of solving that problem.
When I was first in the Navy I was assigned to a submarine's Deck Division. The first day in Deck the guy who was teaching me told me to get ten Zerks from the Machinery Space. I was thinking "Zerks, yeah right, they're putting on the new guy." But I'd let them have their fun. I hunted up a Machinist's Mate and told him I needed ten Zerks. He took me to a cabinet, opened a drawer, and said: "Hold out your grubby paw." I figured this is went I get the handful of yuck but instead he counted out ten little fittings into my hand. I looked and said: "These are grease nipples." He replied: "Yeah, but they're made by the Zerk Company so they're called Zerk fittings. I brought them topside and the sailor I was working with said: "Good, let me show you how to swap them out." I was so sure I was being messed with but it was quite legitimate.
I had a friend (not me, really) who was sent to the auto part store to get half a can of vacuum by the people helping him rebuild a carburetor. When he told me about how the guys at the counter got a kick out of it, I asked him what he thought would be in the other half the can
@@mikepelelo5657 Well, metric crescent wrenches do exist, as many wrenches now have both scales on the base of the jaws (which has to be the stupidest "feature" ever on a tool!). Who pre-sets an adjustable wrench? We all do, but we get it about right and then adjust the rest of the way on the fastener. A scale just slows things down.
Great series! I don't know how many times I've had to make a tool to make a tool to make a tool, in order to create or fix something. Sometimes the simplest project drags on and on...
One challenge after another. Good to find problems and solve them even before the first gear cutting job begins. After that, cutting gears, in the future, will be easy.
Brilliant solution to the rubbing problem. Machinist and tool makers, as practical engineers, are great problem solvers. Problems are often stacked like pancakes. You can’t see the next one until you solve the one on top. Often there’s several that patiently need to be addressed. I’m hooked now. Can’t wait until I see how that gear is cut.
It IS a lathe, or whatever machine you want it to be. This is the coolest thing about Mr. Rucker's, and so many such channels... Using machines to repair / improve *themselves*. So cool to see these machines running true. That perfect taper (with all the sapcers no less!) was a major score.
Hey good job. First shop I ever worked in was a pump rebuild shop, mainly water pumps, lots of relic machines, and that was 44 years ago. They had an old Cincinnati horizontal with expanding collets and a lathe chuck, tool block for lathe cutters, was used mainly for recutting seal seats. They used that old machine for years. Then there was the Lodge and Shipley tee lathe.
My very limited experience in a plastic mold shop taught me that tool and die makers spend a lot time making tools so they can make the final product. Everybody walking through the door had the next big thing and wanted a quote. EZ, Mr customer I can manufacture you part for $.23 each in quantities of 20,000. The mold will cost $45,000 and take 8 weeks to complete. I'll need half down before I can start. It was a tough sell but every once in a while the customer would believe enough in their idea that they would follow through. Thanks for the videos, keep them coming.
So hard to do something new for the first time. Never mind when there's all these other issues you never new your machine had until you started down this path. I am getting there in mentally imaging how this will look when the helical cutter goes. Whats grinding my gears "pardon the pun", is how you align that cutter with the very top of the gear blank disk.
Giving up is not an option for Keith. His patience is admirable. Advaced work ahead so no surprise extra work is needed, especially on an old machine being assembled part by part in some aspects. Adding a motor to the X travel and advanced electronics synchronizing the rotating table it's close to be able to do the same work. Thrilling thought...
For a number of vintage cars, just like on the K&T universal milling head, particularly Rolls Royce and Bentley motor cars, there are a number of locations that call for grease but some that call for oil (SAE90 Gear Oil). In order to avoid gettting it wrong, I put either Zerk or screw down cups for locations that call for grease and only keep grease in my grease guns with Zerk fittings. For oil I have a Tecalemit Oil Gun with a head for button fittings only, so as all the oiling locations have button heads. Just can't then make a mistake.
@@natwooding9394 Button fittings disappeared in the late 1930's when cheap Zerk fittings became available. The Morris Minor is a notorious case, with a zerk on the front suspension trunnion threaded joint. If you grease them rather than oil them, they will fail, which results in the MInor with about 30º of negative camber, that used to be a common sight at the side of British roads. It is difficult to get button fittings with smaller threads but good vintage car part suppliers will usually have them. If I had a Minor or a Sprite, I would put a button fitting on the lower front trunnion.
The detail in your series is great. A brand new arbor easily available solve the problem well, but would also like to see the diagnosis of the ill fitting end mill arbor. I would blue it up to find the interference points. I am learning all I can in case easily available parts are not quickly available off the shelf.
One part or a hundred, the set up is the same. Years ago when I took a machining class and was more ore less doing my thing, the instructor said that I really didn't do a lot of projects. He was right! Every one that I did was fraught with problems that had to be solved, I learned a whole bunch in that class.
Good catch on the interference, Keith, and a novel setup to correct it. From the other marks on the housing, it looks like there have been some problems in that area in a previous existence. These machines have a lot of history. If only they could talk. Looking forward to the next step in the journey. Mart in England.
My question is "WHY" the interference in the first place. Something somewhere isn't right and milling it down may lead to bigger problems if the issue isn't discovered and corrected first.
@@pville5548 Over the years, original parts get replaced with "equivalents" that "work" (kind of) even though they do interfere. It looks like someone in the past used screws whose heads were longer than they should have been and left in a central spindle that was longer than it should be. If the operators back then didn't spot the heating (or it wasn't their own machine) then that easily explains the tracks on the back of the cover plate.
This spring I bought me a 6Р82Ш soviet milling machine from 1978. Vertical head on this machine has never been used (no marks on spindle bore, just pure clean factory grind) but head was pumped full of grease. Looks like grease was diligently added whenever general maintenance/oiling was due.
Keith, I have the same universal head on my K&T 2HL. I always check the gear clearance/backlash between the drive gear in the spindle taper and the gear in the drive section of the head. There is some give between the drive and the main rotating spindle sections of the head. You should check this runout and NOT depend on the slop in spline shaft to correctly align the gear runout. I always mount the drive section first by it's self so it is easy to feel the gear backlash by turning the spline shaft and move the clamps up or down a few thousandths. Then mount the main part of the head on the over arm supports and into the spline shaft. At first when you said it was getting hot I was thinking of these gears binding with no backlash and high pressure on the teeth.
Keith, As always a superb video. You bring back fond memories of working ashore helping with the engineers on the tankers to solve problems. You have an inherent ability to diagnose and solve problems. There were a couple of things I noticed. First, you are still using your engine hoist to move the milling head around. I assume you are still looking for the K&T hoist attachment. Adam Booth in one of his videos showed a hoist he fabricated for his K&T milling machine. It seemed like a good solution to the hunt for the elusive OEM hoist. Second, I noticed that you ground the contact area on the milling head without protecting the gear just above the damaged area. I assume this was just an oversight. Bob
Turning a milling machine into a late that's the kind of cameplan Keith come,s up whit to get her done. And he reps tings up while your still in marvel. You cant go wrong whit this guy.
With that shaft heating up, it annealed a little bit, it was a little softer and you could cut it down. Mr. Pete turned his lathe into a mill, you turned your mill into lathe. Oh the irony of it all. Some say machines can't talk. But if one is listening the squeaks, chatters, and vibrations they can be understood.
In a funny way, I'm glad to see you suffer will all the same setbacks that us mortals do. One of the things you rarely do (at least on camera) is also have to go searching for those parts/tools you know you've got but they aren't where you last remember with that organised shop you have. For me I'll probably spend as much time searching for stuff, then have to repair/fix things like you have been doing, then I can start whatever it was I was doing. Glad you show real life warts and all.
I'm looking into a mini lathe for my restorations, and I was wondering what brand and specifications should I look for/at to choose the best options for the jobs. Just simple turning.
Hope you’re going to make a few of them gears to get some time and part money back, they’re must be a few people out there who need one and can’t acquire them. Just a thought. Thanks for sharing and regards from across the pond.
He mentioned this particular gear had unusual geometries for gears. It's unlikely many others would need this exact 50+ year old part. But he's now fully debugged his system and will now be capable of making any kind of helical gear per a customer's spec.
KInd of the inverse of line boring: There you switch from stationary tool & moving part to moving tool & stationary part. Here the part changes from stationary to moving.
The set up has me more interested than the actually cutting of the gear LOL. I wondered if you was going to make a test blank out of wood but then I figured wood my splinter so...
I read an interesting book recently that said most of the standard techniques--for hand--machining were developed in the 1840's-1870's for working on railway engine construction. At leat this was the case in England. Perhaps parallel evolution happened in other countries or techniques and knowledge were exported in written form. Either way it is an amusing thing to think all those standard methods to producing parts that Keith shows us are actually meant to be making steam locomotives!!!
Facing off the protruding shaft while still in the mill was pure genius and made me LOL. However, a machinist in the Middle East would probably have used a right angle grinder to accomplish the same thing , buttoned it up again and slept very well that night. :-)
You should clean the face of the gear and the surface you hit with the flap wheel, then apply a coat of sharpie marker to one of the two sides, then put it all together run it then disassemble and see if any of the sharpie is worn off. Buzz the metal off until no sharpie is removed to ensure clearance between the moving parts.
"the next lathe" you kid, but there is at least one person out there who mounted a lathe chuck in of of these by modifying one of the heads. It's online. Every once in a while i come across the image whenever i look for parts.
Hi Keith why did you take the angle grinder to smooth the inside of the casting? The grinding dust is now inside the upper part with the other gear and bearnings...
Hey Keith... Gotta ask you...Clearance problem between the gear/shaft and housing...Shouldn't we be asking why it's happening...? If that gear/shaft is being pulled forward, into the housing while under load, seems that end play has become excessive...So...It didn't start out that way new...There must be a bearing/thrust washer or something that controls/sets the distance that shaft extends out...Would that not be the starting point...?
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
A comment about those who think this is going a bit slow. What Keith is showing is what goes into making a specific part. In a real shop, not everything goes smoothly and repetitive happens. It's not all spraying big blue chips. We're getting a glimpse of this and I enjoy watching it. It reminds me that the bumps and do-overs in my shop are not mine alone but part (perhaps most) of life in a noisy and smelly lifestyle.
F--k the comment section like the bag of retards we are.
This is why Screwtube is becoming a bunghole of the interweebs.
Lay down 15 hours into a 20 minute video and let the retard salad come poop on your work. Like they could even try to do anything comparable.
Smack that like and support people who matter.
I believe it was my comment that you are speaking of and that's fine, I just voiced my concern as my level of understanding of machining may be a bit advanced for some. So I apologize for the misunderstanding you may have gotten.
@@fiorevitola880 Nah! I was rubbing my butt on Kens!
Ken made a point and I amplified it. Don't get your panties twackered up over nothing spastic.
Lay back and have a rub. Not too hard or too high!
These are the more interesting videos IMO. There are thousands of videos out there making chips and are pretty boring.
That is one of the things I love about Keith's videos. Things don't always go perfectly and then he finds a way to solve the problem. Too many videos have everything PERFECT. And with him you get clues how to cope with the world not being perfect.
Keith is so lucky, he even has the rare "lathe attachment" for his K&T!
Came across one of your early vids that I had watched. 7 years I've been looking forward to the next Rucker Release. Thank You for all the good times & education you have provided.
🖖Live Long & Prosper 🖖
Phew! Finally chased all the bugs. I really admire your skill, perseverance and communication abilities.
Excellent series. Gear making is so interesting. Maybe some day a gear hobbing machine for the shop? Excellent work. Thanks for sharing.
I really appreciate how you explain each of the operations you are doing, and especially, the WHY of what you are doing. I'm a fairly new hobby machinist, and I've learned so much of what I know from watching just a few machinists on RUclips. You make things clear in a way that, for me anyway, is just the right blend of showing and telling. There have been so many times when I've thought, 'Oh, that's why that thing I tried didn't work right!' And, happily, times when I've thought, 'Cool! I did figure out the right way, or at least one right way' to do something on my own.
I just retired, and in the last few years bought both a lathe (a 1954 10x24 inch Logan/Montgomery Wards) and a milling machine (a 1960 Clausing 8520). I'm thrilled with the results I've been able to get with just my ham-handed skills and knowledge, and every time I use one or the other, I improve, and can watch the results right as they're happening. So satisfying! Knowing I'm doing something with so much history is also fascinating to me.
It has probably been doing that for sixty years, and you are the first person to do anything about it. That scoring didn't get that deep in a minute. That was a resourceful and clever way of solving that problem.
I am amazed at how involved this process is. Thanks for showing it all, Mr. Keith.
I think this is going to be the most expensive gear ever! But enjoying the drama, we are learning right along side you.
It would seem that it is the solution to problems that brings the smile to your face. Mine too.
When I was first in the Navy I was assigned to a submarine's Deck Division. The first day in Deck the guy who was teaching me told me to get ten Zerks from the Machinery Space. I was thinking "Zerks, yeah right, they're putting on the new guy." But I'd let them have their fun. I hunted up a Machinist's Mate and told him I needed ten Zerks. He took me to a cabinet, opened a drawer, and said: "Hold out your grubby paw." I figured this is went I get the handful of yuck but instead he counted out ten little fittings into my hand. I looked and said: "These are grease nipples." He replied: "Yeah, but they're made by the Zerk Company so they're called Zerk fittings. I brought them topside and the sailor I was working with said: "Good, let me show you how to swap them out." I was so sure I was being messed with but it was quite legitimate.
what no bolt strechers and 20 foot of gig line
I had a friend (not me, really) who was sent to the auto part store to get half a can of vacuum by the people helping him rebuild a carburetor. When he told me about how the guys at the counter got a kick out of it, I asked him what he thought would be in the other half the can
@@brianguest561 Or a metric crescent wrench and a left hand pipe wrench.
Zerks are in fact real, Dixon Nuts however are not.
@@mikepelelo5657 Well, metric crescent wrenches do exist, as many wrenches now have both scales on the base of the jaws (which has to be the stupidest "feature" ever on a tool!). Who pre-sets an adjustable wrench? We all do, but we get it about right and then adjust the rest of the way on the fastener. A scale just slows things down.
Good morning Keith time for a coffee ☕ and an update ☺️
Great series! I don't know how many times I've had to make a tool to make a tool to make a tool, in order to create or fix something. Sometimes the simplest project drags on and on...
One challenge after another. Good to find problems and solve them even before the first gear cutting job begins. After that, cutting gears, in the future, will be easy.
Brilliant solution to the rubbing problem. Machinist and tool makers, as practical engineers, are great problem solvers. Problems are often stacked like pancakes. You can’t see the next one until you solve the one on top. Often there’s several that patiently need to be addressed. I’m hooked now. Can’t wait until I see how that gear is cut.
Your a smart man Keith. Thank you
It IS a lathe, or whatever machine you want it to be. This is the coolest thing about Mr. Rucker's, and so many such channels... Using machines to repair / improve *themselves*.
So cool to see these machines running true. That perfect taper (with all the sapcers no less!) was a major score.
Hey good job. First shop I ever worked in was a pump rebuild shop, mainly water pumps, lots of relic machines, and that was 44 years ago. They had an old Cincinnati horizontal with expanding collets and a lathe chuck, tool block for lathe cutters, was used mainly for recutting seal seats. They used that old machine for years. Then there was the Lodge and Shipley tee lathe.
The first run is always the hardest. I’ve seen a palm oiler , never seen a full sized one before. Thanks for sharing.
Been watching you for a long time and I know this has been a dream of yours to accomplish.
My very limited experience in a plastic mold shop taught me that tool and die makers spend a lot time making tools so they can make the final product. Everybody walking through the door had the next big thing and wanted a quote. EZ, Mr customer I can manufacture you part for $.23 each in quantities of 20,000. The mold will cost $45,000 and take 8 weeks to complete. I'll need half down before I can start. It was a tough sell but every once in a while the customer would believe enough in their idea that they would follow through. Thanks for the videos, keep them coming.
The way you figured out to turn that piece was really cool
yes its time consuming to go through all this work to make a gear but thats what this channel is all about and i dont mind it at all thanks keith!
Thanks Keith. Overcoming is where the fortitude shines. Great job!
I admire your Patience working every quirk Out!
You welcome. Enjoy your videos Thanks
So hard to do something new for the first time. Never mind when there's all these other issues you never new your machine had until you started down this path. I am getting there in mentally imaging how this will look when the helical cutter goes.
Whats grinding my gears "pardon the pun", is how you align that cutter with the very top of the gear blank disk.
Captivating videos of the setup …
Giving up is not an option for Keith. His patience is admirable.
Advaced work ahead so no surprise extra work is needed, especially on an old machine being assembled part by part in some aspects. Adding a motor to the X travel and advanced electronics synchronizing the rotating table it's close to be able to do the same work. Thrilling thought...
Good morning Keith. Hope you have a good week.
Piecing equipment together and going through this setup takes time and attention to detail. Thanks very much for sharing Keith.
I watched the video when that attachment was first installed and now that the shaft isn't grinding the cover its running a lot quieter 👍
For a number of vintage cars, just like on the K&T universal milling head, particularly Rolls Royce and Bentley motor cars, there are a number of locations that call for grease but some that call for oil (SAE90 Gear Oil). In order to avoid gettting it wrong, I put either Zerk or screw down cups for locations that call for grease and only keep grease in my grease guns with Zerk fittings. For oil I have a Tecalemit Oil Gun with a head for button fittings only, so as all the oiling locations have button heads. Just can't then make a mistake.
As I recall Sprite/Midget rack and pinions need 90 weight oil and have a zerk fitting.
@@natwooding9394 Button fittings disappeared in the late 1930's when cheap Zerk fittings became available. The Morris Minor is a notorious case, with a zerk on the front suspension trunnion threaded joint. If you grease them rather than oil them, they will fail, which results in the MInor with about 30º of negative camber, that used to be a common sight at the side of British roads. It is difficult to get button fittings with smaller threads but good vintage car part suppliers will usually have them. If I had a Minor or a Sprite, I would put a button fitting on the lower front trunnion.
Projects breed projects!
The pile of iron bits at the bottom of that recess (7:50) speaks volumes.
The detail in your series is great. A brand new arbor easily available solve the problem well, but would also like to see the diagnosis of the ill fitting end mill arbor. I would blue it up to find the interference points. I am learning all I can in case easily available parts are not quickly available off the shelf.
I love how James was preternting that he could work on a car in the beginning.
Good morning Keith thanks for another video
I still excited to see the Final Cut, thank you for time review the Horizontal Mill, I've been around them just never have operated, so Thanks :)
Brilliant as always
Phew. Those vee way clamps/slides look like they could do with a drop of grease too Keith.
It's looking good. Xx
I’m loving this series
Creative problem solving at its best
One part or a hundred, the set up is the same. Years ago when I took a machining class and was more ore less doing my thing, the instructor said that I really didn't do a lot of projects. He was right! Every one that I did was fraught with problems that had to be solved, I learned a whole bunch in that class.
Love the new lathe! :)
You certainly have patience endurance with solving these cascading problems on this gear teeth milling project.
The drama..... This is just to real. Thanks for not giving up.
GREAT SET-UP
I've read many horizontal mills were in fact based off lathe headstocks... so you're using it as intended!
Very clever solution to fixing the shaft!!
Good catch on the interference, Keith, and a novel setup to correct it. From the other marks on the housing, it looks like there have been some problems in that area in a previous existence. These machines have a lot of history. If only they could talk. Looking forward to the next step in the journey. Mart in England.
My question is "WHY" the interference in the first place. Something somewhere isn't right and milling it down may lead to bigger problems if the issue isn't discovered and corrected first.
@@pville5548 Over the years, original parts get replaced with "equivalents" that "work" (kind of) even though they do interfere. It looks like someone in the past used screws whose heads were longer than they should have been and left in a central spindle that was longer than it should be. If the operators back then didn't spot the heating (or it wasn't their own machine) then that easily explains the tracks on the back of the cover plate.
Arrrgghh. Still got to wait for the gear cutting. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
This spring I bought me a 6Р82Ш soviet milling machine from 1978. Vertical head on this machine has never been used (no marks on spindle bore, just pure clean factory grind) but head was pumped full of grease. Looks like grease was diligently added whenever general maintenance/oiling was due.
Thank you Keith. It is nice to learn how it was done before CNC machines
Great job,
Lots to overcome and learn as you go.
Thank you
Real work life experience here Keith.
Keith, I have the same universal head on my K&T 2HL. I always check the gear clearance/backlash between the drive gear in the spindle taper and the gear in the drive section of the head. There is some give between the drive and the main rotating spindle sections of the head. You should check this runout and NOT depend on the slop in spline shaft to correctly align the gear runout. I always mount the drive section first by it's self so it is easy to feel the gear backlash by turning the spline shaft and move the clamps up or down a few thousandths. Then mount the main part of the head on the over arm supports and into the spline shaft. At first when you said it was getting hot I was thinking of these gears binding with no backlash and high pressure on the teeth.
could you support the head on the over arms to prevent the need to fully dismount the head completely.
Keith,
As always a superb video. You bring back fond memories of working ashore helping with the engineers on the tankers to solve problems. You have an inherent ability to diagnose and solve problems.
There were a couple of things I noticed. First, you are still using your engine hoist to move the milling head around. I assume you are still looking for the K&T hoist attachment. Adam Booth in one of his videos showed a hoist he fabricated for his K&T milling machine. It seemed like a good solution to the hunt for the elusive OEM hoist.
Second, I noticed that you ground the contact area on the milling head without protecting the gear just above the damaged area. I assume this was just an oversight.
Bob
Thanks for sharing
Turning a milling machine into a late that's the kind of cameplan Keith come,s up whit to get her done. And he reps tings up while your still in marvel. You cant go wrong whit this guy.
Or watching Marvel lol
Love the videos/series. Please keep them coming. I am starting a channel soon on a totally unrelated topic and I know how much work is involved. Tony
Machine ready now hope you are will be fun to watch
With that shaft heating up, it annealed a little bit, it was a little softer and you could cut it down.
Mr. Pete turned his lathe into a mill, you turned your mill into lathe. Oh the irony of it all.
Some say machines can't talk. But if one is listening the squeaks, chatters, and vibrations they can be understood.
great work
Love it you Rednecked the shaft turning saving work Brian Block would be proud Nice job for Ga BullDog hope yall take championship.
Keith has the patience of Job!!! :)
Great video Keith, keep'um coming..
In a funny way, I'm glad to see you suffer will all the same setbacks that us mortals do. One of the things you rarely do (at least on camera) is also have to go searching for those parts/tools you know you've got but they aren't where you last remember with that organised shop you have. For me I'll probably spend as much time searching for stuff, then have to repair/fix things like you have been doing, then I can start whatever it was I was doing. Glad you show real life warts and all.
Hiya Keith
Like you need another project but cleaning and inspecting the universal head would be good video. Have a great day.
I'm looking into a mini lathe for my restorations, and I was wondering what brand and specifications should I look for/at to choose the best options for the jobs. Just simple turning.
Yet another excellent video.
Hope you’re going to make a few of them gears to get some time and part money back, they’re must be a few people out there who need one and can’t acquire them. Just a thought. Thanks for sharing and regards from across the pond.
He mentioned this particular gear had unusual geometries for gears. It's unlikely many others would need this exact 50+ year old part. But he's now fully debugged his system and will now be capable of making any kind of helical gear per a customer's spec.
Thank you for sharing. 👍👀
I saw helical gears getting cut on the Vintage Machinery insta... Tease!!!
KInd of the inverse of line boring: There you switch from stationary tool & moving part to moving tool & stationary part. Here the part changes from stationary to moving.
I love the preposition soup: Lock these down by snugging these up, etc. Way to bring this project in by working it out.
Good job troubleshooting! Heat is never good in a gear train.
I thought today was gona be the day, but wasn’t meant to be 😁. Creative fix tho 👍
The set up has me more interested than the actually cutting of the gear LOL. I wondered if you was going to make a test blank out of wood but then I figured wood my splinter so...
I read an interesting book recently that said most of the standard techniques--for hand--machining were developed in the 1840's-1870's for working on railway engine construction. At leat this was the case in England. Perhaps parallel evolution happened in other countries or techniques and knowledge were exported in written form. Either way it is an amusing thing to think all those standard methods to producing parts that Keith shows us are actually meant to be making steam locomotives!!!
Curious why you don't put the universal head on the over arms first then slide them back
Looks like time to find or fabricate the integral crane for the old Model H!
Facing off the protruding shaft while still in the mill was pure genius and made me LOL. However, a machinist in the Middle East would probably have used a right angle grinder to accomplish the same thing , buttoned it up again and slept very well that night. :-)
I have a grease gun filled with oil that i use on my mill🤔nice job as usual!
All mills are lathes! Lathe is the mother of all machine tools for a reason.
can you divulge where you found the stub arbor?
Man you did it again!!! I though you were going to cut gears!!.. nope
Holy smokes I’m ready to see this thing. Cut some gears already. You should use some power tools on some of those nuts enjoying the content, though
You should clean the face of the gear and the surface you hit with the flap wheel, then apply a coat of sharpie marker to one of the two sides, then put it all together run it then disassemble and see if any of the sharpie is worn off. Buzz the metal off until no sharpie is removed to ensure clearance between the moving parts.
Put a piece of soft solder across the gear, run it all up tight, then see if it is flattened, and if so, measure to determine the clearance.
What was causing the shaft to creep out over time? Wouldn't it have been better to fix the underlying problem?
"the next lathe" you kid, but there is at least one person out there who mounted a lathe chuck in of of these by modifying one of the heads. It's online. Every once in a while i come across the image whenever i look for parts.
Did you identify the actual interference with the tool holder? Is it salvageable or scrap?
Keith's Dairy 🙂
Hi Keith why did you take the angle grinder to smooth the inside of the casting? The grinding dust is now inside the upper part with the other gear and bearnings...
Keith owns a shop vac ...
It don't come easy, you know it don't come easy...
Soldier on!
maybe the angle of the gear teeth is pulling the large gear into the case face? would a thrust bearing help maybe?
Hey Keith... Gotta ask you...Clearance problem between the gear/shaft and housing...Shouldn't we be asking why it's happening...? If that gear/shaft is being pulled forward, into the housing while under load, seems that end play has become excessive...So...It didn't start out that way new...There must be a bearing/thrust washer or something that controls/sets the distance that shaft extends out...Would that not be the starting point...?