@@markhgillett Excellent, thank you. I have not been in the trade since finishing trade school and a toolmaker apprenticeship back in 1965, but watching you brings back a lot of memories. Thank you.
As a millwright apprentice who runs lathes constantly your videos really help me improve my skills and give me good ideas of smarter ways to do things thank you
Every time I see you use the marvel saw it bring back great memories of my younger navy days in the pipe shop aboard the USS Sierra AD 18. I spent many hours using and cleaning that old marvel saw from 1960 to 1964. Our saw was haze gray with red and yellow trim. It also had a saw blade welder attached to the back, somehow I was always task with making the new blades. I want to believe it was because I was the best blade maker in the shop. LOL Love your video’s and look FWD to then each week.
Gorgeous, as always! I really appreciate your talking through order of operations, and why you choose to do things the way you do. As an absolute beginner with metal working, it gives me such good thought-provoking.
Been a machinist for 45 years, and my hat goes off to you for liking to work with cast iron. It is one of my least favorite materials. Awesome job as usual.
Dura-bar is beautiful stuff to work with. As an extrusion it is very pure and smooth, unlike cast iron. Try it. You won't believe you are working with CI!!
@@paulcopeland9035 The swarf tells the tale. It's roughly 1/2 way between what gray cast iron yields (LOTS of powder) and what steel yields. Graphite flakes = powder and graphite nodules = chips. Nodular iron is NICE stuff that even a non-machinist, like me, can appreciate.
Hey Keith, you appear to have lost a lot of weight, I hope it’s intentional and not due to health problems. Keep putting that old iron to good use. Can’t wait for the next shop tour.
Always great to see some turning… and the stoker engine seems to have made it out from under its bench! Can’t wait to see what happens in the rest of that project.
I find it interesting to think about the many different ways a part can be made. My first thought was that you would turn one end of the piece of Durabar round then turn it around in the chuck to make the gear blank on the other end. Then when you talked about turning the arbor between centers I thought you would be making it by turning between centers.
That was my thought as well, though the level of precision required here can easily be achieved with a four-jaw (or otherwise adjustable) chuck. And it turns out anyway that one end seems like it will be held in the dividing head [chuck?], so now I'm all confused wondering when the centres are actually going to be used! I'll just have to stay tuned to the next exciting episode I guess! Something I have always enjoyed about Keith's channel is that he's happy share these everyday, basic jobs with us all over and over again. As an armchair machinist with future aspirations of having my own home shop, I find it invaluable to have the opportunity to watch over Keith's shoulder, so to speak, as he goes about his work. So many little details, like how a chip forms, how fast the work is turning, how the sound lathe motor changes pitch under load, the sound of the half-nuts engaging and disengaging relative to tool position, etc., etc. Observing these sorts of things once is interesting, but observing them hundreds of times is getting an education!
Agreed: Keeping the stock as one piece would have made for a better part, faster. Cut off to length and face the non-critical end after all the turning and boring is done.
@@glenupp3407 The breaks in the gear look like shock loading of the teeth. I know nothing about this particular engine but it looks like the bull gear is part of the gear train to drive one of the wheels to propel the traction engine. I learned to fire and run a 10 HP single-cylinder Case traction engine in 1966. There were similar gears in the drive train between the engine and wheels for travel. Full-sized engines were geared to run at top speed to be about what a horse would travel pulling a plow.
This is a great project. I swear I've seen Keith's odds and ends videos where he has hundreds of gear cutting tools. How is it possible that he only has one cutter that can do this job?
Interesting how there are a million ways to do one or two pieces. I would have done all the turning, inside and out before cutting off the extra material. In fact, if I had a big enough chuck on the Indexer, I'd have cut the gears before cutting it too but that would have required the skin cut to be much further back and two cuts. That way, no mandrel would have been needed.
Since this seems to be a part that has taken a beating in the past, would there be any benefit in making a spare one while you're set up? Love what you do Keith! Thank you!
Enjoy your projects and the antiques you work on, my only unsolicited advice is to review and limit the repetitive commentary. Hopefully you’ll have a follow up on the tally Ho.
I see the missing teeth on that gear and I wonder what happened to the piece that used to mate with this gear? It must have some damage too. And BTW, I watch the Tally Ho too. With Aloha...
Always interesting when you fire up a machine and cut some chips, Keith, I couldn't help but notice at the end when you had the old part Beside the new gear blank that the new looked like it was about 1 cm shorter in the gear area than the old one, was that just the camera angle Keith. And a question please, if you are boring a hole for an interference fit like you did, (please don't think I'm being a smart a$$ here I am curious because I don't know) Should you wait till the part being bored cools down before coming to the desired diameter if so is it different for cast iron and different materials the tolerance of interference you need to leave for a proper fit? Thanking you for sharing your good work with us Keith Tony from Western Australia 🇦🇺
Could you elaborate on the metal that make up the cutting points on your tools for lathe work. .,how are they made and maintained sharp. How are they maintained in exact alignment allowing wear and heat
A couple videos ago Keith went over some of the projects he’s been working on and when he’s going to get to some of them. Check it out, it’s a good video!
Being a gear engineer I'm slightly surprised that cast iron is being used, instead of steel. The old spur gear has shown how teeth can be broken off, whereas steel has better tensile strength which would help keeping the teeth on the gear, and not on the floor. I'm just curious. Good post, thank you.
I would never have thought to face the end and true up the diameter before cutting. That was a great idea that I'm going to store in my mental bank, but wouldn't clamping the turned surface in the Marvel's vise ensure that the face was square to the sides?
Clickspring has a great 3 part video series on making a gear cutter from scratch. It includes a neat sharpening jig that could be adapted to a commercial cutter. ruclips.net/video/g7qq16ACArI/видео.html
@@susannovotney1903 Neither should break, because it is as much labor to repair the small gear as the big gear and equal amount of machine down time. Cast iron gears belong to 19th century, this is a good opportunity to start converting the gears to modern steel alloys that weren't available back then
@@NICK-uy3nl It is good practice to make one part of a system to be the sacrificial one or the one that breaks to prevent the more expensive and/or complicated parts from being damaged if there is an accident in the series of parts. It would be like a shear pin on an outboard motor prop that breaks instead of something in the engine or other parts of the whole thing. The shear pin is relatively easy to replace if the prop hits a log, rock, or other hard objects while propelling the boat. A key is also a likely part to break or shear if a sudden impact load is encountered.
Given the tendency of this particular gear to lose teeth, is it not appreciably rather expedient to make two replacement gears simultaneously to save on setup time?
Maybe you were able to get the gear hob sharpened for free. But I would be happy to sharpen any gear hobs in my shop for free. You would have to pay for the shipping to me only. I live in Ohio so I don't know quickly you could get it back . I have been doing this kind of work for over fifty years. It would be done correctly and no burn. A lot of people don't remove the material right.
@@garybrenner6236 A big gear for a wheel is very much larger than this gear by a factor of 6 to 10 or more. Not only would the large gear be more expensive to get and machine but the machines used to make it would need to be much larger also.
@@royreynolds108 I agree with that, I would have the smaller gear as the weak link. I've found cast iron especially Durabar is very forgiving and can take some accidental abuse.
Drew, I made a flippant comment about CI, but back in the day if you needed a lump of iron you got the foundry to cast you one. Recycle some scrap maybe. If you could make a pattern of your object, then you could have it. It’s really incredibly versatile, and low tech. Have a look at how Durabar is cast. Not the sort of thing you’d have in the factory foundry. In fact I think continuous casting is quite new as an industrial process. I certainly remember pioneering work on copper casting back in the late 1970’s. There was a cockup designing the runout rolls, the billet was too heavy to grip and it ran out of the die out of control. The cooling water was suddenly exposed to a ton or so of molten copper. The explosion took the aircraft hanger doors of the rails by about three feet. Took for ever to re fit!
@@drewmog123456 This part is much easier to repair/replace than the gear that it runs against. If you make this part stronger and something happens, then the part that fails is much harder to repair. You want the 1st part to fail to be the easiest one to work on.
@@drewmog123456 fair point. I think some one else suggested that this is an easier part to replace than it’s counterpart, but too, it probably lasted a hundred years, though it has had a few accidents. Maybe one should consider why it got broken and how that could be avoided.
Mcmaster carr is a huge joke. Way over priced. Lousy customer service. Shoddy shipping practices. You can get dura barr from steel suppliers much cheaper.
Really? Down in the southern part of rural Georgia where there is very little in the way of machine shops and industrial activity? Sometimes it is necessary to pay a little or some more to be able to get what you want or need to be shipped to you instead of taking the time of traveling somewhere to get a better price.
@@royreynolds108 Really? Mcmaster carr is a mail order store. So ordering from them is pointless. Doesn't matter where you live. Your point makes no sense at all. And mcmaster carr isn't a "little" more expensive either, they are A LOT more expensive. Maybe you like wasting your money but I don't!
That hasn’t been my experience. In fact just the opposite. McMaster pricing and shipping are higher but I’ve gotten the correct parts and excellent service on every order; usually delivered in a couple of days.
@@onsecondthought4174 What did you not understand? Rural Georgia does not have a steel supplier on every corner. That piece of Dura-bar would be hard to come by in a lot of places. Sure, McMaster is mail order. That is the beauty of their service!
@@ellieprice363 Good for you. You want a brownie button? I own a machine shop pal, I purchased from them for years and had years of issues so because you purchase once in a while and not very often somehow you're right and I'm wrong? Is that it? Your little game isn't going to work with me chowder. Go fly a kite.
Yes, I would be interested in seeing the results of the Tally Ho work you were doing sometime back.
Waiting on new casting parts from Windy Hill Foundry
@@markhgillett Excellent, thank you. I have not been in the trade since finishing trade school and a toolmaker apprenticeship back in 1965, but watching you brings back a lot of memories. Thank you.
As a millwright apprentice who runs lathes constantly your videos really help me improve my skills and give me good ideas of smarter ways to do things thank you
Every time I see you use the marvel saw it bring back great memories of my younger navy days in the pipe shop aboard the USS Sierra AD 18. I spent many hours using and cleaning that old marvel saw from 1960 to 1964. Our saw was haze gray with red and yellow trim. It also had a saw blade welder attached to the back, somehow I was always task with making the new blades. I want to believe it was because I was the best blade maker in the shop. LOL Love your video’s and look FWD to then each week.
When your the best at anything enjoy that fact my friend.
As a patron of the cummin fair ground i really appreciate your dedication to old iron thank you again.
I will never get tired of watching you do some machining Keith
Pretty tallented fella eh.
I think one of the more informational videos you have put out lately. Thank you and good job.
always get intense satisfaction watching you perform lathe work keith!
Look what showed up at the 8:00 min. mark. Stoker Motor. I have wondered if that thing was still around, so now we know!
Gorgeous, as always! I really appreciate your talking through order of operations, and why you choose to do things the way you do. As an absolute beginner with metal working, it gives me such good thought-provoking.
Been a machinist for 45 years, and my hat goes off to you for liking to work with cast iron. It is one of my least favorite materials. Awesome job as usual.
Dura-bar is beautiful stuff to work with. As an extrusion it is very pure and smooth, unlike cast iron. Try it. You won't believe you are working with CI!!
@@paulcopeland9035 The swarf tells the tale. It's roughly 1/2 way between what gray cast iron yields (LOTS of powder) and what steel yields. Graphite flakes = powder and graphite nodules = chips. Nodular iron is NICE stuff that even a non-machinist, like me, can appreciate.
It's one of my favourite materials to work with, well once your used to swarf everywhere and being as black as coal.
Nice start to a new project. Thanks Keith for the video.
Always good to watch your videos Keith. Best regards from The Netherlands.
Hey Keith, you appear to have lost a lot of weight, I hope it’s intentional and not due to health problems. Keep putting that old iron to good use. Can’t wait for the next shop tour.
... this is the stuff we love ...
Always great to see some turning… and the stoker engine seems to have made it out from under its bench! Can’t wait to see what happens in the rest of that project.
Great job done there Kieth
Great stuff Keith. I always learn tips and tricks watching you work. Thanks.
I find it interesting to think about the many different ways a part can be made. My first thought was that you would turn one end of the piece of Durabar round then turn it around in the chuck to make the gear blank on the other end. Then when you talked about turning the arbor between centers I thought you would be making it by turning between centers.
That was my thought as well, though the level of precision required here can easily be achieved with a four-jaw (or otherwise adjustable) chuck. And it turns out anyway that one end seems like it will be held in the dividing head [chuck?], so now I'm all confused wondering when the centres are actually going to be used! I'll just have to stay tuned to the next exciting episode I guess!
Something I have always enjoyed about Keith's channel is that he's happy share these everyday, basic jobs with us all over and over again. As an armchair machinist with future aspirations of having my own home shop, I find it invaluable to have the opportunity to watch over Keith's shoulder, so to speak, as he goes about his work. So many little details, like how a chip forms, how fast the work is turning, how the sound lathe motor changes pitch under load, the sound of the half-nuts engaging and disengaging relative to tool position, etc., etc. Observing these sorts of things once is interesting, but observing them hundreds of times is getting an education!
Agreed: Keeping the stock as one piece would have made for a better part, faster. Cut off to length and face the non-critical end after all the turning and boring is done.
That's a tantalizing view of the steam stoker engine in that one shot!
13:09 A deja vu is usually a glitch in the Matrix. It happens when they change something 😎
A great job Keith 👍
Hello, George from Indiana. Enjoyed the gear project.
Nice, I learned something today. Good Job.
thanks for the education learned a lot
OH Looky looky, there is the stoker engine back @ 8:05. That would be a good candidate for the 'new' horizontal boring mill. Am I right?
Art from Ohio
Good work. Get to keep them running
Interesting stuff as always! I really need to get around to getting my little lathe running.
Great job Keith as usual and your looking healthier than ever
Sweet can’t Waite for the next step
Hi Keith, great video. Greetings from Czech republic.
Good Morning Georgia!😊
I spotted that there had been prior repair on the broken gear too. Looks like it had been worked hard.
Did you notice that the repaired tooth failed in the cast iron, not the braze? Speaks volumes to the strength of the bond in a brazed repair.
@@glenupp3407 The breaks in the gear look like shock loading of the teeth. I know nothing about this particular engine but it looks like the bull gear is part of the gear train to drive one of the wheels to propel the traction engine. I learned to fire and run a 10 HP single-cylinder Case traction engine in 1966. There were similar gears in the drive train between the engine and wheels for travel. Full-sized engines were geared to run at top speed to be about what a horse would travel pulling a plow.
That was very relaxing, I enjoyed that very much.
I wonder if that bevel gear is timed to the other gear it’s mated too?
Why would it need to be "timed"? It is a simple drive gear.
This is a great project.
I swear I've seen Keith's odds and ends videos where he has hundreds of gear cutting tools.
How is it possible that he only has one cutter that can do this job?
Thanks for sharing. Great work.
Thanks for sharing
13:00 so good it had to be said twice.
Cast iron is a bit like chocolate reinforced with cornflakes.
Thank you
Must have been doing a tractor pull with it. 😂
Nice job, Sir!
Thank you for sharing. Nice.👍
Interesting how there are a million ways to do one or two pieces. I would have done all the turning, inside and out before cutting off the extra material. In fact, if I had a big enough chuck on the Indexer, I'd have cut the gears before cutting it too but that would have required the skin cut to be much further back and two cuts. That way, no mandrel would have been needed.
Did you bother to listen to the video? He needs the mandrel for the gear teeth cutting on the horizontal mill, so why not make it and use it for both.
@paulcopeland9035 No worries, brother. As we say, there's more than one way to skin a cat.
I'm curious what makes the drill wobble at 14:43 and the part wobbling at 15:17? Was it removed from the chuck at some point?
Since this seems to be a part that has taken a beating in the past, would there be any benefit in making a spare one while you're set up? Love what you do Keith! Thank you!
Enjoy your projects and the antiques you work on, my only unsolicited advice is to review and limit the repetitive commentary. Hopefully you’ll have a follow up on the tally Ho.
Good morning. Great project. About how long did it take to cut the blank on the Marvel saw? Thanks.
I see the missing teeth on that gear and I wonder what happened to the piece that used to mate with this gear? It must have some damage too. And BTW, I watch the Tally Ho too. With Aloha...
Always interesting when you fire up a machine and cut some chips, Keith, I couldn't help but notice at the end when you had the old part
Beside the new gear blank that the new looked like it was about 1 cm shorter in the gear area than the old one, was that just the camera angle Keith.
And a question please, if you are boring a hole for an interference fit like you did,
(please don't think I'm being a smart a$$ here I am curious because I don't know)
Should you wait till the part being bored cools down before coming to the desired diameter if so is it different for cast iron and different materials the tolerance of interference you need to leave for a proper fit?
Thanking you for sharing your good work with us Keith
Tony from Western Australia 🇦🇺
Could you elaborate on the metal that make up the cutting points on your tools for lathe work.
.,how are they made and maintained sharp. How are they maintained in exact alignment allowing wear and heat
Saw the stoker engine in the background. What's the status on it?
A couple videos ago Keith went over some of the projects he’s been working on and when he’s going to get to some of them. Check it out, it’s a good video!
Being a gear engineer I'm slightly surprised that cast iron is being used, instead of steel. The old spur gear has shown how teeth can be broken off, whereas steel has better tensile strength which would help keeping the teeth on the gear, and not on the floor. I'm just curious. Good post, thank you.
Super cool !!
I would never have thought to face the end and true up the diameter before cutting. That was a great idea that I'm going to store in my mental bank, but wouldn't clamping the turned surface in the Marvel's vise ensure that the face was square to the sides?
Not a machinist but my thought is that a bandsaw blade is flexible so there may be some "wandering".
*- Keith, why does the blank not look as tall as the original at **30:33**.?*
*- What did I miss and now not understand?*
Nice job Keith, I'm curious did you make the washer or is that a standard one
Very interesting
Should have upgraded the material?
How are you going to cut the keyway since it does not go all the way through?
Clickspring has a great 3 part video series on making a gear cutter from scratch. It includes a neat sharpening jig that could be adapted to a commercial cutter.
ruclips.net/video/g7qq16ACArI/видео.html
13:00 there was a glitch in the Matrix
Just curious, _could_ you have sharpened the involute cutter in your shop?
Hi Keith nice project . I do like gear making Do you have to heat treat cast iron gears after you make it . Thanks JM
Noticed the stoker engined is still there not finished. Any idea when that will be completed?
What about the other side? I'm sure it got booggered up some too? Great project.
Good afternoon Keith and everyone else watching from Lincolnshire UK 🇬🇧
Me too!! Sunny Coningsby.
@@drewmog123456 👍 bomber county 😁
🤔😮👍👍Fantastic Video. Thanks
What is the latest of the steam stoker engine you were working on?
Hi Keith, where can I buy the chip guard used on your lathe?
look like some 5 06 dura bar from the dura bar Co. in Woodstock IL,
55 06 dura bar
My shop needs a large radial arm dill.
Anyone know where we can find one?
Abom has one under tarp in his old workshop, you can ask him if he wants to sell
I hate watching new videos. I was so ready to watch the next one and remembered I have to wait in real time for you to cut those teeth
Excellent video as usual.
So many projects at once.
Whats happening with Tally Ho?
I think they are waiting for a pattern made for casting at windy hill foundry
4140 or 4041 would be a better choice for a high torque gear application. No wonder the old cast iron gear had so many missing teeth !
keep it cast iron as this is more of a sacrificial gear vs the bull gear which is way way bigger.
@@susannovotney1903 - Never heard of 'sacrificial gear' ... lol
@@NICK-uy3nl maybe I should have said it would be better to have the small gear to break rather than the larger one.
@@susannovotney1903 Neither should break, because it is as much labor to repair the small gear as the big gear and equal amount of machine down time. Cast iron gears belong to 19th century, this is a good opportunity to start converting the gears to modern steel alloys that weren't available back then
@@NICK-uy3nl It is good practice to make one part of a system to be the sacrificial one or the one that breaks to prevent the more expensive and/or complicated parts from being damaged if there is an accident in the series of parts. It would be like a shear pin on an outboard motor prop that breaks instead of something in the engine or other parts of the whole thing. The shear pin is relatively easy to replace if the prop hits a log, rock, or other hard objects while propelling the boat. A key is also a likely part to break or shear if a sudden impact load is encountered.
0-5:00 We need to make a new gear for a steam engine.
What happened to the stoker steam engine project?
Given the tendency of this particular gear to lose teeth, is it not appreciably rather expedient to make two replacement gears simultaneously to save on setup time?
I thought Keith was going to say he would make both gears as one peice
Maybe you were able to get the gear hob sharpened for free. But I would be happy to sharpen any gear hobs in my shop for free. You would have to
pay for the shipping to me
only. I live in Ohio so I don't know quickly you could get it back . I have been doing this kind of work for over fifty years. It would be done correctly and no burn. A lot of people don't remove the material right.
Yikes. I wonder what that "mishap" sounded like... :)
Considering how poorly the original held up maybe you should have gone to something like 4140?
I thought the same thing, cast iron is just looking for trouble, unless they want that gear to be the "weak link".
@@garybrenner6236 A big gear for a wheel is very much larger than this gear by a factor of 6 to 10 or more. Not only would the large gear be more expensive to get and machine but the machines used to make it would need to be much larger also.
@@royreynolds108 I agree with that, I would have the smaller gear as the weak link. I've found cast iron especially Durabar is very forgiving and can take some accidental abuse.
Glitch in the matrix around the 13 minute mark
Machining cast iron makes such a mess.
Please can you make a video on your weight loss, the motivation, the diet plan, exercise schedule and whatever else you can think of!😂
Comment. 🙂
😛😛😛😛❤❤👍👍👍👍👍👍
So it's for the scale model, you know the "toy" one.
“That should be to length….” And then he proceeds to cut the step without verifying the length with a ruler or something. Who does that?
I don’t understand why these things are made from cast iron when they suffer from teeth breaking off.
Drew,
I made a flippant comment about CI, but back in the day if you needed a lump of iron you got the foundry to cast you one. Recycle some scrap maybe. If you could make a pattern of your object, then you could have it. It’s really incredibly versatile, and low tech. Have a look at how Durabar is cast. Not the sort of thing you’d have in the factory foundry. In fact I think continuous casting is quite new as an industrial process. I certainly remember pioneering work on copper casting back in the late 1970’s. There was a cockup designing the runout rolls, the billet was too heavy to grip and it ran out of the die out of control. The cooling water was suddenly exposed to a ton or so of molten copper. The explosion took the aircraft hanger doors of the rails by about three feet. Took for ever to re fit!
@@johnsherborne3245 i understand what you say, but why make a new gear from cast which has to be susceptible to the same problems as the original?
@@drewmog123456 This part is much easier to repair/replace than the gear that it runs against. If you make this part stronger and something happens, then the part that fails is much harder to repair. You want the 1st part to fail to be the easiest one to work on.
@@mikewatson4644 BINGO!
@@drewmog123456 fair point. I think some one else suggested that this is an easier part to replace than it’s counterpart, but too, it probably lasted a hundred years, though it has had a few accidents. Maybe one should consider why it got broken and how that could be avoided.
I do like a video without political content these days..................
Mcmaster carr is a huge joke. Way over priced. Lousy customer service. Shoddy shipping practices. You can get dura barr from steel suppliers much cheaper.
Really? Down in the southern part of rural Georgia where there is very little in the way of machine shops and industrial activity? Sometimes it is necessary to pay a little or some more to be able to get what you want or need to be shipped to you instead of taking the time of traveling somewhere to get a better price.
@@royreynolds108 Really? Mcmaster carr is a mail order store. So ordering from them is pointless. Doesn't matter where you live. Your point makes no sense at all. And mcmaster carr isn't a "little" more expensive either, they are A LOT more expensive. Maybe you like wasting your money but I don't!
That hasn’t been my experience. In fact just the opposite. McMaster pricing and shipping are higher but I’ve gotten the correct parts and excellent service on every order; usually delivered in a couple of days.
@@onsecondthought4174 What did you not understand? Rural Georgia does not have a steel supplier on every corner. That piece of Dura-bar would be hard to come by in a lot of places. Sure, McMaster is mail order. That is the beauty of their service!
@@ellieprice363 Good for you. You want a brownie button? I own a machine shop pal, I purchased from them for years and had years of issues so because you purchase once in a while and not very often somehow you're right and I'm wrong? Is that it? Your little game isn't going to work with me chowder. Go fly a kite.