By far one of the best instructional videos on machine grinding a kitchen knife. Thank you so much for breaking down each of the steps and posting a video for all of us to use!
What he speaks of to get rid of that gouge is blood sweat and tears paying off for you. A knife maker taught me these EXACT lessons and it took a LONG time for me to get right even while being taught. Great video.
“Knife making is making a bunch of mistakes and fixing them as you go along. Good knife makers just know how to fix them right.” Ain’t that the truth! 😂
Thanks for making this video. I want to make a kitchen set and was going to start with the chef knife, but now, I think I'll start with the paring knife.
one of your old vids but I'm saving it because this is my goal to make cooking knives. I now understand the process of that type of grind. I just did a skinning knife (second knife ever) and that curved blade was very hard with a full grind and blending it. thank you on to the next vid Part 2
Thanks for the video. I have several kitchen knife blanks sitting here and just haven't had time to learn how to grind them. Seams like it would be simple but there are always tricks. Thanks for sharing.
first off grats on the wife thing . I needed my ekim fix, i'm happy to say I have watched all of your videos now, some more then once. love the way you show what you are talking about, I'm a visual student completely taught by youtube. You have helped my grinding so much ...Well you and about 85 woops knives in my bucket of shame. I just wanted to say thank you, you have inspired me to do some videos of my own eventually. Thank you Mike for your time and effort . if you are ever in the Reno Nevada area look me up i will gladly buy you a beer.
+Rick Hall Thank you very much! I'm certainly a visual student as well. That bucket of shame is part of the fun lol Glad to see you take that as "knife shop tuition" instead of getting discouraged. Grind on and fire up that camera! It's fun on this side of the lens too. If I'm ever out by Reno, I'll buy you a beer for supporting me by watching the videos! Thank you
Hi Mike, great to see you wearing your respirator. Don't worry about it affecting your video in anyway we'll work around it! Another great tutorial. You are excellent at showing and explaining your method. Maybe one time use some dykem on the side of the blade so we can really tell the progress each time you display it to us. Thanks and grats on the marriage
+wttdashb2 Thank you! I've thought about dying the blade between passes to show where I'm removing steel a little better but it comes off very easily on the grinder and it doesn't always mean that the scratches are gone or the surface is where you like it. Especially on something as hard as this chef at 62 Hrc.
+thomas rogers That's what I love to hear! It makes me happy to know I was able to provide someone with information to truly help them along. Thank you for watching!
Thank you for this video mike it is very helpful I'm trying to make a chef and this helps a lot. Also congratulations on the wedding and I hope everything goes well.
I have not started a chefs knife as of yet but my wife keeps asking for a good one. She is a chef and wants good knives, can't say I blame her. Thanks for the guidance all I have to do now is master it.
One suggestion brother... your water bucket is down and to the right. Ever think about putting it up higher, and on the side you are holding with? Repeatedly leaning across and down like that, I believe, has the potential to cause some back strain over several years. It's tough enough standing at a machine for several hours a day.
thank you for all your knowledge in all your vids i walk away with something every time i watch one. i'm wondering what type of caliber your using as the edge scribe in this video, never seen it before thank you for any info on it and great job as always
+DevilsDenBullies Thank you for watching! The scribe I use in the video is a 6 inch Grizzly height gauge. By far the cheapest I could find and it works great! www.grizzly.com/products/Dial-Height-Gauge-6-/G9618?Page
@@np4057 Hi Nick. Do you know what happened to Mike? He has disappeared? I’ve msged him but no replies. He’s such a lovely guy and made fantastic videos. Just what to know how he’s getting on. Kevin
@@allenglishknives6823 I don’t really know. I have read a comment somewhere within the last year saying he took a break from knives and RUclips but is doing well. Hope it’s true!
@@np4057 Thanks Nick. Just kinda worried. He seems like such a lovely guy and he made some of the best knife making videos out there, period. He was in the brink of going into production etc. Good guy. Thanks again 👍🏻
Hi Mike love your videos. I always feel your talking to me. anyway! you finished the edge down to .010 is that the cutting edge or do you put another slicing edge as a final?
Where did you go? It's been ages since your last post! I use this grind now exclusively on my kitchen knives but I seem to have trouble always around the heel of the blade especially on smaller knives
I do mostly kitchen knives, I can't imagine to grind after heat treatment. I do it the traditional way up to 2mm thickness material, and no issues. Almost impossible not to heat the blade grinding that way after H.T.
Perhaps I picked you up wrong, the blade or heat treated steel should be more than 3mm thickness? To avoid heating and deforming the steel with friction heat of the sand belt?
@@stevenmcginty3079 I know this is an old question but just in case- I always grind my chef knives post heat treatment with great success. Obviously, you do have to be very careful not to over heat the blade and you go through belts quicker. I'd say it's personal preference and there's pros and cons of doing either way. I used to grind pre heat treatment and I'll probably try it again at some point.
I have a general question regarding using belts for sharpening you may be able to answer that a couple others wouldn't ... I can see a belt accomplishing a convex edge and it's advantages but I don't understand how a belt could sharpen a single bevel kitchen knife for example when a flat edge is the key to its use
Another awesome video Mike. I noticed that it seemed like you were using a lot of pressure grinding in this video. You said you heat treated the blank before you started grinding. Does the blade heat less because the belt "skates" over the hardened steel more easily? If so, I may be being too gentle and "frady cat" about overheating when doing finish grinding after heat treating. For me at least, the more passes I make, the more I tend to have problems with keeping the right angle. (More passes = more chances to screw up.) Thoughts? BTW, did you temper before grinding or just heat treat?
+storm9872001 I typically use a lot of pressure when I grind and slower speeds (grinder at 40% power). You do have to be very careful with the heat. I can stay on longer with lower amounts of pressure but how I grind, I typically get a pass or two before it needs to be cooled. The general rule here is if its too hot to hold, its too hot. If the steel hits 400* it will change the temper of the blade. That's also why I never use gloves. Grinding post heat treat is slower and sharp belts are a must but I do prefer the feedback I get in terms of feel. The heat is about the same. Soft steel can be "grabby" on the belt and even cause chatter. Hard steel skates on the belt as you said. This blade is heat treated and tempered but I run them very hard at about 62 HRC in this case.
Awesome. Thanks bud. I love your vids! Im in school for knifesmithing right now and gave all the guys in class your links. They like you and Walter Sorrells vids. Keep up the solid work. Whats your website and ill buy one of your blades off ya
Hey Ekim I’m having trouble with metal dust when I grind and can’t seem to find any answers. I have the same respirator as you and soon after I started using it, maybe a week two at the most, I can smell metal dust when I grind. I bought another respirator and it did it even faster. Did the filters wear out? Do I not have it adjusted to fit correctly? Are you using a dust collector to suck up the metal as you grind? I appreciate your help and if you had a video over it that would be awesome!! Thanks!!
Hi Mike, thanks for this great tutorial. I'm a novice when it comes to kitchen knives, I'm about to make my first, a santoku, so this is very interesting. I've never ground a blade after heat treat so I'm a little worried about ruining the temper. I'm working with 01 tool steel at 3mm thick, am I correct in thinking that as long as I dunk the blade in water to cool it enough to hold comfortably, the temper will be OK? Thanks again for all the great videos. Matt
As long as the blade never gets above 400deg you won’t have a problem with heat treat. That’s why meany people grind with no gloves on. If it’s to hot to hold then you will have to check the heat treat.
I can hollow grind a flat blade like a cleaver but I can't grind a curved blade like a warncliffe or a drop point any advice? Mabye u could make a video
+Grussing Custom Knives In the how to hollow grind video, I mention the twist method I use. That transition point is by far the hardest part of hollow grinding. Focus on you pressure control is a must to get that transition right. It will take some practice to get it right.
Hi Mike, love your vid's i;m just learning the art and i would vey much like to make a fish filleting knife so would like some advise. keep up the good work !!!
hey man, Im a beginner maker and was wondering if the blending method would still work with steel thicker such as .156. I know this video is old but Id love the advice.
I think having a place to brace the palm so the blade doesn't jitter up and down as you apply pressure would be a good thing. When I weld I almost always find a way to brace my self... Your breathing alone shifts your entire body.. I know a sharpshooter that counts his heartbeats to shoot between them for accuracy. You are constantly micro-adjusting. Forcing the blade on a moving object will cause unwanted shifts starting from the ankles. Unwanted shaping in your work depending on experience I'm sure... even so I always try and brace palms and use it as a predictable center axis letting my fingers do the Micro stuff. Lots of these tool builds I've noticed beef their machine to weigh lots of pounds for stability/non-vibration. Often overkill in a shop where one respects there tools, but that's an entirely different story. I don't see unwanted shapes in the metal as mistakes or flaws so long as it is part of the trip and can be scratched away. Fine-tuning "Mistakes" and seeing the desired shape come to life is often the part of genius design.
I struggled along time making kitchen knives (normally 6 inches) out of stock 70 thousands thick and making the bevel an inch to an inch and a quarter high and when I went to hunting knives that were an eight inch or 5/32 thixk, man could I make a killer bevel. I never realized how hard grinding tall bevel on thin knives were.
+Capthrax1 It is very good practice and at times infuriating lol. High grinds on thin stock leave very little room for error or correction but as you said, it will fine tune your skill and you'll produce amazing grinds on thick stock. Thank you for watching!
Keep up the good work with your videos, just like knifemaking, they gotten progressively better one at a time (its nice not hearing the wind against the tin shed lol)
Mate you are a master, the best knifemaking vids on YT bar none. Thanks you so much, now I'm still working on my regular freehand grinding on small knives, so I won't be trying this any time soon, but this gives me something to work towards
Switch sides. Keep them progressing at basically the same rate. That way you aren't chasing a problem down the line. Some people grind one side then the other, but I wouldn't start that way until you have the skills and confidence.
Hey Mike, great video. I'm still working through them all. I know this is old. Do you do anything in your dunk bucket to keep it cooler? I have ice blocks in plastic bottles I stick in there while grinding. Helps a lot.
Sorry guys, noob question. Because the grind goes higher on the blade how does this not create different angles/waves in the grind lines? Sorry if this is hard to understand but i am very confused
Wesley my page on Instagram is Icthys Knives. If I'm understanding what you're saying correctly, where like you're doing a flat grind but the top of the bevel goes above the spine (technically if it doesn't it's a saber grind), yes that part of the spine will be thinner than the handle steel. If you grind unevenly, the thicknesses will technically be different throughout the length of your grind, but you'd never know. Hope this answered your question. Feel free to message me back if that was way off lol. I respond a lot quicker on Instagram
Wesley it doesn't take the material off evenly. Basicly it's a art, you take little off in one section and then take off a little in the section next to it and slowly blend the sections together.
Isn't it because it is done little by little starting with bigger angle towards the spine and on each iteration going upwards the spine the angle gets more and more lesser till it blends into a flat surface? BTW wonderful question, Jacob!
Please move your quench bucket on your left side. Your working left handed so it's quicker, easier and safer and it drives me crazy watching you reach over yourself after every grind. Apart from that I love your work.
Lots of suppliers online, my go-to is NJ Steel Baron or Amazon (yes Amazon sells bar stock of 01, D2, and other carbon steels). Google search knife maker supply and you'll find everything you need.
It's done this way so you don't grind past your scribed lines for the edge thickness, an edge that's too thin or if the grind is wavy it will crack or warp during heat treat. **Edit He points out at 8m16 he's grinding post heat treat (HT) so the above doesn't apply to the way he's making this knife. It does, however, apply to pre-HT grinding. In this case it will be so his edge is centred on the length of the blade.
By far one of the best instructional videos on machine grinding a kitchen knife. Thank you so much for breaking down each of the steps and posting a video for all of us to use!
What he speaks of to get rid of that gouge is blood sweat and tears paying off for you. A knife maker taught me these EXACT lessons and it took a LONG time for me to get right even while being taught. Great video.
I appreciate the time and energy you put in to making these videos. This one really helped me. Working on a chef's knife now.
+Richard Rigsby Thank you for watching! Best of luck with that chef you're working on.
Very nice tutorial and tips, you are killing it.
“Knife making is making a bunch of mistakes and fixing them as you go along. Good knife makers just know how to fix them right.” Ain’t that the truth! 😂
Absolute truth!
@@zackworrell😊
Thanks Mike ☺
+Test Mobile Thank you for watching!
Fist time watching one of your videos. Very great info.
Thanks for making this video. I want to make a kitchen set and was going to start with the chef knife, but now, I think I'll start with the paring knife.
one of your old vids but I'm saving it because this is my goal to make cooking knives. I now understand the process of that type of grind. I just did a skinning knife (second knife ever) and that curved blade was very hard with a full grind and blending it. thank you on to the next vid Part 2
Thanks for the video. I have several kitchen knife blanks sitting here and just haven't had time to learn how to grind them. Seams like it would be simple but there are always tricks. Thanks for sharing.
This is pure gold. Many thanks.
first off grats on the wife thing . I needed my ekim fix, i'm happy to say I have watched all of your videos now, some more then once. love the way you show what you are talking about, I'm a visual student completely taught by youtube. You have helped my grinding so much ...Well you and about 85 woops knives in my bucket of shame. I just wanted to say thank you, you have inspired me to do some videos of my own eventually. Thank you Mike for your time and effort . if you are ever in the Reno Nevada area look me up i will gladly buy you a beer.
+Rick Hall Thank you very much! I'm certainly a visual student as well. That bucket of shame is part of the fun lol Glad to see you take that as "knife shop tuition" instead of getting discouraged. Grind on and fire up that camera! It's fun on this side of the lens too. If I'm ever out by Reno, I'll buy you a beer for supporting me by watching the videos! Thank you
Man sweet technique, nice knives
I like your style so you earned another subscriber
Just subscribed Mike. Great tutorials, thanks for sharing my Man!
The peg board of shame is a genius idea and I need one😂
Best grinding video on RUclips you are a legend
Glad I found this video. My next project for a customer is a set of kitchen knives.
Great job as usual Mike...👍👍👍
Learnt so much from this! Thank you!
Helped so much! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!🙏🏽
Great video, really broke down the steps.
Hi Mike, great to see you wearing your respirator. Don't worry about it affecting your video in anyway we'll work around it! Another great tutorial. You are excellent at showing and explaining your method. Maybe one time use some dykem on the side of the blade so we can really tell the progress each time you display it to us. Thanks and grats on the marriage
+wttdashb2 Thank you! I've thought about dying the blade between passes to show where I'm removing steel a little better but it comes off very easily on the grinder and it doesn't always mean that the scratches are gone or the surface is where you like it. Especially on something as hard as this chef at 62 Hrc.
Ekim Knives hi Mike. I'm going to attempt my first kitchen knife soon. I've ordered 2mm thick steel, is that too thin? regards from chappel knives
Man. Great video!!
Learned a lot thank you
Great grinding tips.
your channel has been a big help man. I have been grinder knives since January and you have saved me a ton of money in steel. thanks
+thomas rogers That's what I love to hear! It makes me happy to know I was able to provide someone with information to truly help them along. Thank you for watching!
man I love your go pro idea with all your videos but I wish it zoomed in. it seems so far away sometimes! thanks for another video man
Thank you for this video mike it is very helpful I'm trying to make a chef and this helps a lot. Also congratulations on the wedding and I hope everything goes well.
+tyler price Thank you very much Tyler. Best of luck with that chef.
I have not started a chefs knife as of yet but my wife keeps asking for a good one. She is a chef and wants good knives, can't say I blame her. Thanks for the guidance all I have to do now is master it.
Awesome video Mike! I can totally understand, my sister is currently planning her wedding.
+David I feel for her lol. I would have never guessed just how much is involved in planning and paying for a Long Island wedding.
One suggestion brother... your water bucket is down and to the right. Ever think about putting it up higher, and on the side you are holding with? Repeatedly leaning across and down like that, I believe, has the potential to cause some back strain over several years. It's tough enough standing at a machine for several hours a day.
I am left handed also. Is there no room for the bucket on the left side of the grinder?
Congrats and good luck with the wedding.
+Tactical Cats Thank you very much!
Its been so long.. sure you will be back?
thank you for all your knowledge in all your vids i walk away with something every time i watch one. i'm wondering what type of caliber your using as the edge scribe in this video, never seen it before thank you for any info on it and great job as always
+DevilsDenBullies Thank you for watching! The scribe I use in the video is a 6 inch Grizzly height gauge. By far the cheapest I could find and it works great! www.grizzly.com/products/Dial-Height-Gauge-6-/G9618?Page
hey mate whats in your dip bucket?? why is it blue??
“I will never forget about you guys” :’(
Came here to say this :(
@@np4057 Hi Nick. Do you know what happened to Mike? He has disappeared? I’ve msged him but no replies. He’s such a lovely guy and made fantastic videos. Just what to know how he’s getting on.
Kevin
@@allenglishknives6823 I don’t really know. I have read a comment somewhere within the last year saying he took a break from knives and RUclips but is doing well. Hope it’s true!
@@np4057 Thanks Nick. Just kinda worried. He seems like such a lovely guy and he made some of the best knife making videos out there, period. He was in the brink of going into production etc. Good guy.
Thanks again 👍🏻
Good video I learned a lot from it!
Hi Mike love your videos. I always feel your talking to me. anyway! you finished the edge down to .010 is that the cutting edge or do you put another slicing edge as a final?
Where did you go? It's been ages since your last post! I use this grind now exclusively on my kitchen knives but I seem to have trouble always around the heel of the blade especially on smaller knives
I do mostly kitchen knives, I can't imagine to grind after heat treatment. I do it the traditional way up to 2mm thickness material, and no issues. Almost impossible not to heat the blade grinding that way after H.T.
Does it matter if the blade has already been heat treated??
Legit question and humbly asking.
Perhaps I picked you up wrong, the blade or heat treated steel should be more than 3mm thickness?
To avoid heating and deforming the steel with friction heat of the sand belt?
@@stevenmcginty3079 I know this is an old question but just in case- I always grind my chef knives post heat treatment with great success. Obviously, you do have to be very careful not to over heat the blade and you go through belts quicker.
I'd say it's personal preference and there's pros and cons of doing either way.
I used to grind pre heat treatment and I'll probably try it again at some point.
Nice video! ;) What steel do you use?
Where you get that scribe from and what exactly is the name of it? I sure can use one.
Is there anything mixed in the water that you use to cool the blade?
+Dan O Yes it's water and Dawn dish soap. The soap helps the particulates sink to the bottom of the bucket. It also helps with knife maker hands lol
I have a general question regarding using belts for sharpening you may be able to answer that a couple others wouldn't ... I can see a belt accomplishing a convex edge and it's advantages but I don't understand how a belt could sharpen a single bevel kitchen knife for example when a flat edge is the key to its use
Another awesome video Mike. I noticed that it seemed like you were using a lot of pressure grinding in this video. You said you heat treated the blank before you started grinding. Does the blade heat less because the belt "skates" over the hardened steel more easily? If so, I may be being too gentle and "frady cat" about overheating when doing finish grinding after heat treating. For me at least, the more passes I make, the more I tend to have problems with keeping the right angle. (More passes = more chances to screw up.) Thoughts? BTW, did you temper before grinding or just heat treat?
+storm9872001 I typically use a lot of pressure when I grind and slower speeds (grinder at 40% power). You do have to be very careful with the heat. I can stay on longer with lower amounts of pressure but how I grind, I typically get a pass or two before it needs to be cooled. The general rule here is if its too hot to hold, its too hot. If the steel hits 400* it will change the temper of the blade. That's also why I never use gloves.
Grinding post heat treat is slower and sharp belts are a must but I do prefer the feedback I get in terms of feel. The heat is about the same. Soft steel can be "grabby" on the belt and even cause chatter. Hard steel skates on the belt as you said. This blade is heat treated and tempered but I run them very hard at about 62 HRC in this case.
Very Cool! Thank you!
Great video. Question: What type and thickness of metal did you start with?
Did you forge that or doing stock removal? if stock removal whats the thickness and where did you get it?
+Dr Dank I do the stock removal method and this is .100 thick AEBL from Alpha Knife Supply
Awesome. Thanks bud. I love your vids! Im in school for knifesmithing right now and gave all the guys in class your links. They like you and Walter Sorrells vids. Keep up the solid work. Whats your website and ill buy one of your blades off ya
Hey Ekim I’m having trouble with metal dust when I grind and can’t seem to find any answers. I have the same respirator as you and soon after I started using it, maybe a week two at the most, I can smell metal dust when I grind. I bought another respirator and it did it even faster. Did the filters wear out? Do I not have it adjusted to fit correctly? Are you using a dust collector to suck up the metal as you grind? I appreciate your help and if you had a video over it that would be awesome!! Thanks!!
Very helpful! Thank you!
Hi Mike, thanks for this great tutorial. I'm a novice when it comes to kitchen knives, I'm about to make my first, a santoku, so this is very interesting. I've never ground a blade after heat treat so I'm a little worried about ruining the temper. I'm working with 01 tool steel at 3mm thick, am I correct in thinking that as long as I dunk the blade in water to cool it enough to hold comfortably, the temper will be OK? Thanks again for all the great videos. Matt
As long as the blade never gets above 400deg you won’t have a problem with heat treat. That’s why meany people grind with no gloves on. If it’s to hot to hold then you will have to check the heat treat.
Dude, where did you go? No videos in over a year.
I can hollow grind a flat blade like a cleaver but I can't grind a curved blade like a warncliffe or a drop point any advice? Mabye u could make a video
+Grussing Custom Knives In the how to hollow grind video, I mention the twist method I use. That transition point is by far the hardest part of hollow grinding. Focus on you pressure control is a must to get that transition right. It will take some practice to get it right.
what is that you got covered up in the back ground? Is that something to flatten out your blanks
jbyrd3304 It's a milling machine.
Mike, where are you!!!!????
Have you tried a chest mount for the Gopro?
Hi Mike, love your vid's i;m just learning the art and i would vey much like to make a fish filleting knife so would like some advise.
keep up the good work !!!
What is the thickness you stayed with?
hey man, Im a beginner maker and was wondering if the blending method would still work with steel thicker such as .156. I know this video is old but Id love the advice.
I think having a place to brace the palm so the blade doesn't jitter up and down as you apply pressure would be a good thing. When I weld I almost always find a way to brace my self... Your breathing alone shifts your entire body.. I know a sharpshooter that counts his heartbeats to shoot between them for accuracy. You are constantly micro-adjusting. Forcing the blade on a moving object will cause unwanted shifts starting from the ankles. Unwanted shaping in your work depending on experience I'm sure... even so I always try and brace palms and use it as a predictable center axis letting my fingers do the Micro stuff.
Lots of these tool builds I've noticed beef their machine to weigh lots of pounds for stability/non-vibration. Often overkill in a shop where one respects there tools, but that's an entirely different story.
I don't see unwanted shapes in the metal as mistakes or flaws so long as it is part of the trip and can be scratched away. Fine-tuning "Mistakes" and seeing the desired shape come to life is often the part of genius design.
Thank you so much sir!
How much for a chef knife like that?
I struggled along time making kitchen knives (normally 6 inches) out of stock 70 thousands thick and making the bevel an inch to an inch and a quarter high and when I went to hunting knives that were an eight inch or 5/32 thixk, man could I make a killer bevel. I never realized how hard grinding tall bevel on thin knives were.
+Capthrax1 It is very good practice and at times infuriating lol. High grinds on thin stock leave very little room for error or correction but as you said, it will fine tune your skill and you'll produce amazing grinds on thick stock. Thank you for watching!
Keep up the good work with your videos, just like knifemaking, they gotten progressively better one at a time (its nice not hearing the wind against the tin shed lol)
Mate you are a master, the best knifemaking vids on YT bar none. Thanks you so much, now I'm still working on my regular freehand grinding on small knives, so I won't be trying this any time soon, but this gives me something to work towards
+theelfman You'll be there before you know it! I'm no master, just stubborn lol Thank you for watching!
Brilliant
Tq so much
Whats the name and where can I get a scriber like that
Do you switch sides or do you take One side at a time?
Switch sides. Keep them progressing at basically the same rate. That way you aren't chasing a problem down the line. Some people grind one side then the other, but I wouldn't start that way until you have the skills and confidence.
Ollemanden I've only seen it done one side at a time, and that's how I make mine.
thank you!!
+Gabriel Kierulff Thank you for watching!
Hey Mike, great video. I'm still working through them all. I know this is old. Do you do anything in your dunk bucket to keep it cooler? I have ice blocks in plastic bottles I stick in there while grinding. Helps a lot.
Sorry guys, noob question. Because the grind goes higher on the blade how does this not create different angles/waves in the grind lines? Sorry if this is hard to understand but i am very confused
Wesley my page on Instagram is Icthys Knives. If I'm understanding what you're saying correctly, where like you're doing a flat grind but the top of the bevel goes above the spine (technically if it doesn't it's a saber grind), yes that part of the spine will be thinner than the handle steel. If you grind unevenly, the thicknesses will technically be different throughout the length of your grind, but you'd never know. Hope this answered your question. Feel free to message me back if that was way off lol. I respond a lot quicker on Instagram
Damn Jacob. Found you on here too. Lol
Wesley it doesn't take the material off evenly. Basicly it's a art, you take little off in one section and then take off a little in the section next to it and slowly blend the sections together.
Isn't it because it is done little by little starting with bigger angle towards the spine and on each iteration going upwards the spine the angle gets more and more lesser till it blends into a flat surface? BTW wonderful question, Jacob!
I mean Wesley, not Jacob :)
I am basically civil engineering now I am working Cnc programming I need help how to start knife work shop
Please move your quench bucket on your left side. Your working left handed so it's quicker, easier and safer and it drives me crazy watching you reach over yourself after every grind. Apart from that I love your work.
I notice you are not using a respirator ???
Gary Demarco he was using a respirator. At one point he says "let take off this respirator so you can hear me better".
Heavy metal poisioning is not joke.
type of steel ?
Very nice video. Put your cooling bucket in your left please! So you will avoid some kind of accident.
how does some one buy 1 of your knives?
Wher do you get the still for you knifes
Lots of suppliers online, my go-to is NJ Steel Baron or Amazon (yes Amazon sells bar stock of 01, D2, and other carbon steels). Google search knife maker supply and you'll find everything you need.
You are not afraid to cut the belt with the knife edge? why not with edge down?
NiceTubeAccount I was cringing a few times lmao..
I was waiting for that belt sander to grab it and through it across the room lmao
It's done this way so you don't grind past your scribed lines for the edge thickness, an edge that's too thin or if the grind is wavy it will crack or warp during heat treat. **Edit He points out at 8m16 he's grinding post heat treat (HT) so the above doesn't apply to the way he's making this knife. It does, however, apply to pre-HT grinding. In this case it will be so his edge is centred on the length of the blade.
Still planning your wedding? :p
Hi how are you
Haloooo
Lol..this dude is hella sketch on that belt sander..I was cringing..
Speak english
BayChevy 510 you are fucking kidding right?
👎👎👎