How to MIG Weld Rust Repair Patch Panels - Detailed & Up Close
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- Опубликовано: 3 мар 2022
- Up close and detailed, this video shows how to MIG weld patch panels into place for a rust repair that is easy to accomplish and long lasting. Tools and materials listed below:
🔥 MIG Welder: YesWelder MIG 205DS
Referral Link (10%): yeswelder.com/?ref=u551bhmle9
Coupon Code Link (10%): yeswelder.com/discount/Lakesi...
Coupon Code - All Products (10%): Lakeside Autobody
🔥 Welding Cart: www.harborfreight.com/welding...
🔥 Welding Clamps: Vise Grip
🔥 Yellow tape: 3M 06652 Automotive Refinishing Masking Tape
🔥 Lakeside Autobody Channel - / @lakesideautobody 
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Nice continuation from part one. Hopefully they’ll be a part three. Really want to see the next steps and end result.
My wifes uncle gave our son a 95 Dakota. Mechanically it is in great condition, 140,000km, 318 Magnum 4x4. Body needs tlc. These videos are helping greatly.
That's a great truck - your son will remember that one truck forever 👍 Glad the videos help - ask questions if you need :)
Love it! So important to have the 2 surfaces perfectly flat and touching. (I learned the hard way) Great tutorial !!!!
Thanks PSG - always love to hear from you - thanks for the support my friend. Have a great week or end of the week :)
Great job Jerry. I will be doing a lot of stitch welding on my rally car build to stiffen the chassis. Your new Mig welder has a unique sound to it. Thanks for the video.
Yeah - I haven't figured exactly what that is. I do notice if I turn up the wire speed it goes away. Might be some weird electrical vibration - not sure. I started a platform to upload viewers project pictures. The link is at the top of the home page - Project Pictures and More or the link can be found under the "about" tab on the home page or this :discord.com/invite/Qm6qJgcubu
Love your videos they are the best Ben restoring my 1968 fierbird and I have replaced Flore trunk wheel wells and quarter panels!! Just taught my self watching videos wish I had found yours two years ago lol but I have a long way to go and I am using your way and it is getting to be fun thanks for your video's keep them coming. And God bless you.
God bless you too my friend - glad you enjoy the videos and they help is some way. Thanks for watching and good luck on your Firebird :)
I prefer to do the lap weld joint where I can too. In my experience, it makes for a less wavy repair and a stronger repair. I've seen a lot of guys on youtube do butt repairs, I tried it didn't like it. If it's in an area with a lot of curves,then I will butt weld, but the panel has a tendency to not warp on curvy areas. On a long straight repair like an outer door bottom, I prefer the lap weld, it just stays straighter. I will butt weld on the corners like you did here. To me thats the perfect way to do it.
Love this channel has helped me a lot on restoring my 59 Apache. That belonged to my late uncle. Trying to keep as much of the truck original sheet metal. Patching and not replacing. Thank you.
You're welcome - feel free to ask ?s. I get to them 1-2 times a day. Any ? any video :)
Great detailed video 👍🏾
Thanks for watching SWC - have a good weekend :)
My father and I will be welding a wheel arch and a rocker panel patch on my 2001 Silverado. This will be my first time learning how to weld. I was a little apprehensive about getting the sheet metal too hot and causing warping. This was very helpful and informative. Thank you!
You're welcome Brian - feel free to ask ?s as you go :)
Just starting to MIG weld and trying to get good enough to work on my old truck. This is exactly the sort of video I didn't know I needed. Thanks.
You're welcome JFruser - Keep watching and asking ?s, you'll be a pro in no time at all - really :) BTW - this video should really help out - ruclips.net/video/1BYqLM_mY1s/видео.html
Thanks Jerry, I hope to put a couple of patch panels this coming week.
Sounds good - let me know how it goes for you - have fun and be safe :)
Nicely done Bud!!☻
Thanks 👍
I always learn something new from you. Thanks
Glad to hear it - you're welcome :)
Thanks Jerry.. As usual... excellent detail.. Great video...
Thanks 👍
Great video! Watching lots of your stuff, got a rusty Mustang that will need a lot of this panel welding. Thank you
You're welcome RG - have a good weekend :)
Great video Jerry…I always learn off your channel and apply what I’ve learned!
I appreciate the support as always UPK - glad you find some things you can use. You're one of the best out there - have a great weekend my friend :)
@@LakesideAutobody thanks I appreciate you Jerry and have a good weekend also!
Nice work.
Thanks - have a good weekend :)
Excellent as always. Have a Great Wknd.
Same to you - thanks for the support Ray :)
@@LakesideAutobody 👍🏁
Good lesson thanks from az
You're welcome from Saint Helen, MI - have a great week :)
Good job. Thank you.
You're welcome :)
Nice job. panel welding is almost like meditation to me. On big or long panels I sometimes just zone out and go on auto pilot
It's nice when you've cut out ALL the rust - didn't cheat then run into real thin sheet metal while welding. Gotta love it when each weld melts nicely into the other and you get into a nice rhythm. Thanks for watching and the support Bruce
"A little goes a long way" don't want to much heat in the same spot otherwise you end up with distortion (buckling). Great tutorial for beginners wanting to have a go. Thanks for sharing
You're welcome Phil - thanks for the input :)
👍🏻looks good! Thanks!!!
You're welcome Michael. I set up a place to upload pictures of your projects. A place everyone can talk about or look at others' work - discord.gg/Qm6qJgcubu There's a link at the top of the home page on the RUclips banner pic also called: "Lakeside Autobody Discord" - Hope to see your work there :)
Nice work
Thanks :)
Thx Jerry great video :)
Glad you enjoyed it GM - always good to hear from you :)
Great teaching
Thanks Jeff - have a good week :)
That process sure gets the job done fast! The new welder seems to be working well, once you figure out it’s idiosyncrasies 👍
It's a good welder for the price. One of those things where you have to use it to get familiar with what works best. Thanks for always supporting CSG :)
@@LakesideAutobody cheap welders usually benefit from changing ground clamp to a bronze one, the cheap 1 from Harbor Freight can make a world of difference on some small 110V welders
Another great video Jerry! Those YES welders are popping up all over the place. Seems to weld nice but it has an interesting sound.
I was able to eliminate the weird sound by increasing the wire feed and temperature a bit. I think it was some sort of electrical vibration. I can weld just like a Miller or Lincoln - just got to find the right setting and get familiar with it. Seams like a really well built unit so we'll see how it holds up under some constant usage. I'll be sticking with it for a while just to see.
I wish we could post pics of our projects on here. I either learn something new or get refreshed watching yours.
That would be very cool - I'll look into setting something up like that. It's always good to hear from you Pete - thanks for the support :)
Hi again Pete. I started a Discord Server where you can share project picture and talk to other subscribers. You can download the app to phones, computers, etc. Here's the link - you'll be the first to upload project pics! discord.gg/Qm6qJgcubu We'll see how it goes from here. Let me know what you think :)
I like the way you showed the weld location with the marker first. The detailed welding is very good, this will help me a lot. I'm looking forward how you grind down the welds. I have a problem getting this done. A flap disk always takes off to much surrounding metal (I really try to be careful). A die grinder seems to work good but is slow. Since you didn't flange the body, how do you get the patch flat to the fender? I always enjoy your videos and will watch this one many times.
Next Friday I'll have a video showing exactly how to prepare this patch for filler and finish it. It should really make it easy for you. No frustration getting the filler straight, no problems with thinning metal/welds, etc. A good quality, long lasting repair. Thanks for watching and I appreciate the kind words. Have a great weekend my friend :)
Great closeup detailed video. When you overlap a small part of the metal versus butt welding the whole panel, how do you make sure it doesn't rust between the panels?
It won't - that's an internet/magazine/blog thing. Body shops don't butt weld unless it's an edge, rigid panel like rockers, etc. Here's a good video on the subject - ruclips.net/video/JIIonJOVro4/видео.html
Love your straight to the point approach, btw ever used bronze mig weld and your thoughts? Cheers keep up the great clips
I have not. Might take a look at it for a future video though. With the low temps it may work better for some thinner sheet metal. Have you used it on sheet metal? Thanks for the kind words and have a great weekend :)
@@LakesideAutobody hey thanks for replying, Seen lots on utube on bronze welding and I’m 50-50 on purchasing and trying it! Would be great to get your opinion 😁 I think I’m being a cheap bastard lol. Have a great weekend cheers
@@abdulhamoui4376 it isnt a true welding, its like a silver solder, many new car manufactures call for it to repair HSS, "High Strength Steel" to be effective on new cars you need a pulsed MIG to keep temp colder at braze joint.
some people like the color for doing custom exhaust. but its up to you. its very expensive for what it is.
wire I never tried, but want to is EX grind, so supposedly will grind easier than normal hard MIG wire. but never tried it either, personally I prefer Washington Allow wire for auto-body with Lincoln wire my second choice.
great video. I do have a question that nobody seems to be able to answer. After you weld in the new panels how do you protect the patch backside of the weld from rusting?
This is the only thing you need to do - nothing else. ruclips.net/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/видео.html
You over lapped the pieces but no flange?
Yes - no sense in flanging if you can't do it 100% of the time. Can't do it around bends, 90 degree angles, rockers, wheel opening lips, edges, rigid contours, etc. Get good at one method and become very efficient. Hope that helps explain why I don't do it :)
Hi Jerry! Was wondering if ya had any opinions on which brand of replacement cab corners and rocker panels you prefer. I plan on tackling my 06 f-350 crew cab this spring and I figure your the man to ask. Great video!👍
I like both Millsupply and Raybucks - both have very good products - very dependable companies.
@@LakesideAutobody thank you. I appreciate it.
Hi Jerry, great video mate. Is there any reason you did an overlap vs butt weld on top? is this just a time/cost thing for repair vs resto?
You can butt weld that seam if you like. In a regular body shop setting you use both but depending on the situation. Lap for areas that can be tapped down and butt for areas that can't - edges, sharp bends like A/B/C posts etc. All body shops I've worked at in SE MI did it this way - many are now using panel adhesive on their lap joints. See this video for more on lap vs butt - ruclips.net/video/JIIonJOVro4/видео.html
@@LakesideAutobody thanks Jerry. Any weld through primer on the surface’s that overlap?
@@mickholgate3347 No. Here's why: You will be adding metal with the wire feed and this will not be coated with the weld through primer. Also I doubt the weld through will hold up to the MIG temperatures - surely there will be bare metal around the area you welded. Finally, Honda and others have stopped the use of it - they state that it has a negative effect on the weld pool. The best way to prevent future rust is to treat the repair after the job is finished like this - ruclips.net/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/видео.html You can use used motor oil or purchase products that do the same thing like Cosmoline, Fluid Film, etc.
Ho from Argentina!!! Thanks for your video!! I need your opinion. Butt welding or overlaping sheet metal panels? Thanks
Butt weld rigid sections like edges of doors, rockers, and stuff where your seam can not be tapped or knocked down before filling. Areas that can be tapped down - lap. Body shops in MI lap most of the time and butt where you are forced to do so. See this video for reasons why - ruclips.net/video/JIIonJOVro4/видео.html & this video for longevity - ruclips.net/video/gIS1Tbv7Kvw/видео.html
I have that same Miller Cricket XL you have under your new welder. How would you set it to get those nice beads you made. I'll be spot welding in my B pillar mounts on my Crew Cab and want them to pool nicely like yours. Just can't afford a newer welder right now. Nice work ya did on that patch 👍 Thanks 👍
I really do love that Miller - it's just bullet proof and welds great every time no matter the thickness. For 22 or 20 gauge metal I set the wire speed to 35-40 and and the heat on 2. If i start blowing through, I'll move it down to 1 but keep the wire speed the same or drop it down about just a bit i.e from 40 to 35. Gas is 80/20 argon/co2. Have a great weekend Ron - Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks Jerry. I appreciate it
I would have liked to see the ground final product incase my results differed.
I appreciate the instructions though 👍
ruclips.net/video/lVkg7SgTw30/видео.html here's every video on this truck - lots of rust :) - ruclips.net/p/PLOP9eoG14-I_5orQdo3G4zEQPXmCkaK4K
How do you grind the welds down without over finishing the parent material to prep for paint
See this video at 10 minutes and 25 seconds in - ruclips.net/video/GkGTW5-VTJk/видео.html
So was the about 1/4 inch longer? Thank you for the video!!!🔥🔥🔥🔥
Yes the "lap" is about 1/4". It can be larger or smaller - your choice. You really don't have to worry about corrosion between the metal as the seam will always be upside down. Also rust always begins at the bottom of the panel where the debris, salt water, and moisture settles.
@@LakesideAutobody ok the so the welds help blend the over lap in with each other?
@@papergatorzfedducca7998 Somewhat, but the lap is still there - it's a "high" area. Next step is to tap your seam (welds) down just a bit and fill - like this: ruclips.net/video/ZgAA4PD8EUs/видео.html Keep asking questions if you have them :)
@@LakesideAutobody ok thank you!!!!
what gas mix do you use?
The place I exchange my bottle at has only 80/20 argon/co2 - it works great for me on all thicknesses of automotive metal - frame/brackets/sheet :)
whats your opinion on the YES welder? been seeing lots of good comments from others, but no experience. besides Miller, Lincoln, Hobart, vintage Cobra, Snap-On YA212, the Blue Demon, which I own and use, plus Lincolns & Hobart, but my go-to is the Blue Demon, for auto-body, then there is possibly Eastwood.
in auto-body I prefer 120 volt welder, plus I like the ability to play with it, for example if number 3 heat is too cold, and 4 is too hot, you can use a 15' extension cord of 16 gauge on purpose, to restrict welder, and get ranges in between, lol, otherwise I use a 15' 10 gauge cord for moving welder around, without any voltage drop.
I've used Miller welders for my whole career and they are bullet proof and simple but pricy. This welder is a multipurpose welder that's very versatile which makes the lerning curve a little steeper because of all the options. I think the quality is fine, it welds just fine, but you'll have to play with the controls a bit to find the right setting for each process. Over all for right around $400 you can't beat the Yeswelder 205DS. I think this company is fairly new so they are very open to making improvements to their line too. I think they are a good company overall and the customer support is good also.
@@LakesideAutobody I started off as a Miller man, but some of them being finicky, pushed me to try Lincoln, & never looked back. I own around 6 Lincolns, 3 Hobarts, 1 lincoln being engine drive, & 1 Hobart being a pipe-line welder from like the 1950's several misc off brands, including a Blue Point, plus the Blue Demon, as well as a uni-spotter, and a clamp spot welder. I have my Miller 135 at a friends shop, it has been there around 20 years. yeah, 1 of these days I may bring it home? lol. I was using my Lincoln 180 today doing a project for a friend.
I mention all the welders, because I do love welding, I like playing with them, and love seeing what some are capable of. nothing has surprised me more than that Blue Demon. which was bought as a joke to just tack weld, & I consider it my primary welder for auto-body welding.
I may have to go buy 1 of these Yes welders. the praise has got my attention.
@@randymack1782 Thanks for your input and sharing your knowledge on welders Randy. Nothing beats a welder you can trust - especially after you get it all cleaned up with a new tank of gas, wire, tip, etc. Nice talking with you my friend - have a good weekend :)
@@LakesideAutobody Is that a 110v or 220v welder?
@@jonathanyates5198 It's 110 or 220.
Not how I would have done it but it's results that matter. I'd be worried about future rust at the joint. Weld thru primer would have taken care of that. Other than that it was a nice job.
This is a good vid for the longevity of this type of repair - ruclips.net/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/видео.html
Is there any difference between bang bang bang bang and zap zap zap zap when welding?
Not really. Maybe bang bang bang are shorter welds than zap zap zap 😊
Are fires common when welding patch panels?
Doesn't happen too often but if they do start, they are super easy to put out. The air gun quickly blow them out - not a problem or a worry at all. If you can't see inside of a panel, drill a small access hole that air can be blown into and you can also see light through - you can always plug it with a small body plug - Performance Tool W5262 - Performance Tool Body Panel Plugs.
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks!
How do you like the yes welder
I like it. It seems to be built pretty well for the price and I don't really see it breaking down. I'm not sure if you can find a better welder or customer service at this price. Another good thing is that you can easily get parts for it :)
I'm glad to hear this I have been considering a new welder and I am thinking about the yes, harbor freight, or a hobart and I see good reviews on them all and I don't read the 1 & 5 star reviews I like the middle ones best
@@timgiesin4025 are you just going to be MIG welding or are you looking for a multi function welder?
Mostly mig welding but you never know about the future nothing heavy duty
@@timgiesin4025 Yep, you never know. One other thing is that this can run off of 220v too so if you do decide you want to weld something much thicker - no problem. I runs off 110v or 220v with just a short adapter cord. I've had it for about 1 year - nothing wrong yet so.... Have a good week Tim :)
ZAP ZAP ZAP !!! 😊
👍😊
That panel would be way too hot. On an old car doing this would cause it to distort big time.
It really depends on where you are welding - out in the open on a big flat area - you have to be careful. On rigid areas like this or rockers not so much - always best to take your time and keep the area as cool as possible though for sure :)
It’s a lap weld not a butt weld.
Yes. Lap welds are used most often when patching rust. Sometimes butt welds are needed for edges and rigid areas that can't be tapped down.
55 second to 1:08 into your video you said you were butt welding.🤷🏻🧐
@@benzkeez I'm glad you caught that because that is an important BUTT weld. It is butt welded right there because you want a nice even thickness as it is the edge and can't be thick in one area, then get thinner. The rest of the panel is lap welded. Lap where you can tap the seam down. Butt where you can't - that's a rule of thumb when you work in a body shop that does a lot of rust work :)
This is everything you shouldn't do when welding a patch panel. 1. Lap joints are prone to rust. Look at any 60s or 70s vehicle, the rust always starts where two pieces of metal overlap. 2. No weld-through primer on the parent material in a place that you will never have access to again. 3. Way too much heat in one spot, even with a lap joint. 4. Parent material wasn't flanged for a lap joint, that will take lots of hammer dolly work to fix or body filler for the lazy approach
With tons of respect, everything you said here is bad info. A combination of lap and butt is always best - see - ruclips.net/video/JIIonJOVro4/видео.html #2 Weld through primer is not for wire welding also factories are moving away from it 'cause they realize that it negatively effects the weld pool and really doesn't work that well #3 There was no metal dist - not enough heat. Also rigid areas, you don't have to worry as much as large open flat areas. #4 Body shops don't use flange tools because you cannot always use it. If you can't used it on right angle bends, contours, angles, lips, why do it. If you do rust repair for a long time you'll eventually use the methods found on this channel for efficiency and longevity - here's proof - ruclips.net/video/gIS1Tbv7Kvw/видео.html Stop back in 5 years for another follow up video on this truck - it will look exactly the same. Sorry. I've got to look out for those that want to get a job doing this one day. I worked in many professional shops and know what bosses want.
Where is your video of doing it the un lazy way
uhh thats not butt welding. thats lap welding. not the best thing for patch work. just my opinion.
He said only the edge is butt welded with the rest lap welded. You would not be butt welding thin 20-22 gauge metal on my vehicle and then grinding the weld flush. After all that grinding I would have no metal left resulting in a weak repair. Lap welding is longer lasting and much better repair with today's thin metal.
@@jonathanyates5198 then you are not doing good bodywork in my opinion. i do nothing but butt welding and grind flush. when im done it looks like nothing was there. lap welding requires more filler that will and eventually crack. at that point you are sculpting work ... not filling. there is a huge difference especially in a restoration.
Butt welding is great for restorations that aren't going to be driven anymore - especially if you grind the heck out of the welds and try to metal finish like the magazines and TV suggest. For longevity you'll want to use a combination of lap and butt for many good reasons - see the following vids - ruclips.net/video/JIIonJOVro4/видео.html *** ruclips.net/video/gIS1Tbv7Kvw/видео.html Trying to get the truth out there :)
grinding seems to be a point here. so ill say this. if your spot welds are solid with good penetration to the backside, you should be fine. your spot welds should be flat enough on the front to do a nice grind flush. if you're grinding beyond that cause you're thinking it doesn't look that way then thats a weld issue. stop and fill with another weld. you should not grind beyond the existing metal to make your welds look good. that is where you make yourself thin.
@@jamesroe7628 With respect, I totally get what you are saying but you can never guarantee the the seam is water tight. How you do your patches is totally your choice but know that quality body shops I've worked at that want to make sure that their work doesn't come back & holds up to daily driving in the rust belt use this method. When you see an outline of a patch or bubbling around the edge of the patch in a few years, it's because the seam was not prepared like this. See this video on why: ruclips.net/video/JIIonJOVro4/видео.html It's just the way shops do it here in the metro Detroit and surrounding areas :) Have a great week James :)