Tapping Down Seams and Filling - Preparing a Patch Panel for Body Filler
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- Опубликовано: 21 окт 2024
- If you prepare the surface of your rust repair patch panel correctly, the repair will not fail. This video shows how to knock down your seams, fill, and finish the job.
Tools and materials listed below:
*** 5" Sander/Grinder: Astro Pneumatic 5" High Speed Air Sander 222S
*** 36 Grit 5" Disc: 36 grit discs cut down after use on 7" larger sander/grinder - benchmarkabras...
*** Speed Blaster: Sand Blaster - www.amazon.com...
*** Sand Blasting Media: Medium or Fine works - www.tractorsup...
*** Body Hammer - www.autobodyto... - The hammer in the video was made on a metal lathe.
*** Dolly: Martin 1067 Wedge Dolly
I'll never make a repair like this, but it's important to me to understand the principles. There are mechanics and artistry techniques involved. Thank you.
You're welcome.
Quick and easy explanation and simple enough for anybody to be able to do it...that's why you're the best body man on youtube Jerry!!!
I always appreciate your kind words UPK - means a lot from the best painter on YT :)
@@LakesideAutobody thanks Jerry I appreciate that!
I like this new format of short vids covering the one repair in detail.
Looks great. Once painted you’d never know you were even there!
Almost everything I work on has rust. Whether it's my own project or someone else's. So I had to learn to deal with replacing metal and making the repairs look decent. I have basically watched all your videos on panel repair and have applied your instructions to my own work. The only thing I might vary on is I use bondo glass quite a bit over a big repair then sand and skim it for a smooth finish. Panel repairs, using tape to mark body lines, dent pulling, tapping down welds properly preparing the metal for filler, these are things I absorbed from your videos that I use all the time
👍👍👍 Warmer weather coming up and new projects to work on this spring, I'm ready!
That's great to hear BBG. I think that's really good to use the bondo glass first - it's water proof and super durable. Look forward to hearing from you when the warm weather hits. Glad the videos help you out my friend :)
Thanks for the straight edge demonstration. On the camera, it’s hard to see the seem move at all when hammering so that really helps.
I figured some would be questioning that. There's probably a lot of little details like that that can be questioned. If you have any questions at all feel free to ask any time - I'll get you an answer.
This is definitely old school. I always did it this way and I can't see anything wrong with doing it this way.
So many channels nowadays seem to insist on getting the weld all flattened out before filling. As you said, "If you grind off the strongest part of the weld..."
@bossdog1480, I would not agree that is the strongest part of the weld. The weld should have enough heat to penetrate the other side.
This is great! Definitely getting the confidence to try my hand at some home body repairs thanks to your videos.
Thanks Big EZ - that's good to hear. Let me know if you have any ?s
Thanks for your videos. They are saving me money by giving me the confidence of being able to tackle auto body repairs on my own.
You're welcome :)
I’ve leaned a lot from your videos
I'm really glad to hear that - thanks for letting me know :)
My biggest lesson learned so far was not using a flap wheel on the body skin of my Acura Integra. It took not just too much of the weld but also the surrounding metal. That and the heat resulted in a shrunken spot. Found a cutting wheel works great for the high paart of the welds without getting deep or into the surrounding skin. Now Im getting ready to do my first quarter patch to fix it.
Great repair Bud!! Can't wait to read the comments on this one!!☻
As always, another classic ! Thanks for the great tips
Love this channel very informative for diy guy's and gal's.
Thanks for the tech tip.springs on it's way
Great tutorial. I like when you say. Grind the weld but dont grind it all away 😆 I have done that in the past.
That’s good, leaving the weld still strong. 👍
Hello, my friend -just sitting back and enjoying watching your videos"!! great videos for all to learn from,Patrick
Thanks for the support and kind words Patrick :)
Nice work! Love the smell of bondo in the morning.
It's good any time of the day :)
You make it look quick and easy Jerry. I'm a hobby body man. I do my own stuff. I've even done a show car, but it took me 3 years to do it. I can get it done but I certainly take longer than you... and that's because I don't have the confidence and long time experience. I have a tendency to overthink certain things and underthink others...lol I'm a carpenter by trade and I don't even think about my tasks, I just do them and they always come out right, and when i run into a hiccup, I fix it, quick and simple, and move on, as you do in your trade. There's a lot that an experienced tradesman does daily that a novice like myself will scratch his head about for days. Most people don't recognize long time experience when they see it. I certainly do! I laugh when I see some of these keyboard warriors , that watched a few videos on youtube, criticize a man thats been doing it for decades, day in and day out. I'm currently finishing up the body work on my work truck. I started it at the end of december. nights and weekends, I welded in patch panels on the bottom of the 4 doors and it took me forever to get those door bottoms straight. They're straight now, straighter than factory I guarantee it, but man it took me a long time to get there. The truck just needs a final coat of primer on the door bottoms. The whole truck body had minor dings and scratches and they have been fixed and its all sanded down to 320. Hopefully I can get this thing final sanded , ready for paint this weekend. The clear coat has me a little worried but I have the tail gate and hood off the truck, I'm gonna start with those to see how it goes. Maintaining Shop temperature is my main concern with the clear. I've been watching everything I can on spraying the clear. So many of these guys on youtube spray in florida and california where cold weather is not a really a problem. Keeping the place warm is a real concern when your venting fumes and trying to keep the place warm enough. How do you manage that in michigan?
Thanks you so much for the kind words and support. I love the smell of fresh cut lumber - nothing is better than walking around inside of a house that's being built. My parents had all their houses custom built - good times. Don't worry about the clear coat. Spray the first coat a bit dry, second coat wet but not super wet. Last coat wet pushing it to the point of running - but try not to run it. If you do come out to the garage after you cleared it and notice a few runs, no big deal. You can wet sand them out and buff - this older video my help - ruclips.net/video/Ee0B7_soVgc/видео.html Like you said - practice on those panels first and see how it goes - you'll have it after that :)
Always great work Jerry! Have a great weekend!
Thanks 👍 - you too.
I’m 34 minutes late but I’m here!!! 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Glad you're here. Have a good weekend :)
👍Thanks for sharing.. Enjoy your weekend.
Good video I've just welded new wheel arches on my van it's not to bad looking but I'll need to chap a couple bits in a wee bit more and give it another wee skim.
Cool 👍 You can always upload pictures of projects to - discord.com/invite/Qm6qJgcubu
Great video very knowledgeable! I am learning auto body on my own, I have 6 patches to do on my old rusty subaru.
Thanks - feel free to ask any ?s as you go :)
great work jerry as usual you have a great day. i am in wyandotte mi jerry spring is coming i hope you give us some great summer videos. i believe you are in north west michigan from me keep them coming we love it.god bless my friend.
God bless you too my friend. Yep spring is coming soon. Pretty soon it'll be too hot for me. It goes from 0 to 80 real quick. Don't remember that when I was little. Have a great week David :)
Another great video. Thanks for the close ups. Very helpful👍
You're welcome Buckshot. Have a good weekend :)
Another good video
Thank you for these videos. I bought a 91 chevy s10 as a project. The roof has major rust so im buying the whole roof panel. I've never welded and know nothing about it. I still have to buy the welder. I will appreciate any info and on what welder to buy on a budget. Thanks to everybody in advance for the info
If you want a welder that's easy to learn on get a MIG (gas). Obviously Miller and Lincoln make the best and easiest to use but one that is fairly inexpensive and easy to use is the ruclips.net/video/jZikIeH-SWQ/видео.html. It is a bit more difficult to use than the Miller or Lincolns because there are more setting and options as it is a multi purpose welder. I just leave it on the MIG setting though and forget it - just turn it on and weld.
@@LakesideAutobodythank you for the response, im definitely getting it. The price is not bad at all. Ive never weld anything at all so im going to grab a peace of metal from the junk yard and test on it before the project. Thanks again
Hello again i got another question do have any videos on using hammer an dolly work you're good teacher ill keep watching
I do have one - hopefully this one helps out - ruclips.net/video/GLJc5pxBTpM/видео.html Thanks for watching Hershel :)
Great video Jerry thank you 👍
Glad you enjoyed it - you're welcome :)
Good video thank you for sharing
You're welcome Bill :)
The master back at work great video Jerry it's funny I was standing on a Fender at 2 o'clock in the morning today 69 Firebird getting it Done
That's good to hear. Working pretty late - but that's how things get done :)
Thanks for all your videos. After grounding down the welds and cleaning do you normally have a set space you grind down the paint? Does that change depending on what area or is about 2-3" ok for eventual paint and blend? How long do you wait to cheese grate the filler? Stuff gets super hard if left over night lol.
You just want to make sure you don't have filler into the paint. It seems that when you get filler into deep paint scratches they end up showing down the road. Just grind off the paint to a point you know you're not going to need to spread filler there. As for when to cheese grate... too early and the grater clogs - to late and it don't work. Sit right by it and wait till it's about as hard as parmesan cheese or a little harder :)
Saw another guy's vid in which he did the leveling with many steps (metal prep with cleaner, rust preventer application, epoxy primer, sanding, reinforced body filler, sanding, regular body filler, sanding, soft gel filler, primer etc) I just couldn't remember it all. Compare that to your simple approach here, was the other approach necessary or there should be a middle ground?
It is done like this in almost all body shops in MI - here's the longevity of such repairs ruclips.net/video/idrLzsz2eLg/видео.html
Hello. Where is your business located? Do you guys work on '65 Mustangs? Mine has a lot of wheel well rust needing repairs. TY
We don't right now because I am backed up for about two years. Not a lot of shops do rust repairs anymore so ones that do are backed up for years :)
What is the best way to find shops that do rust repair? You videos are great but replacing a rocker panel is probably way too much for a novice. On my dodge ram it would need both inner and outer replaced. Seems like it would be quite expensive but buying another truck is expensive too.
Both unfortunately is becoming out of reach :)
A lot of shops avoid rust repair or over price it to discourage you from getting it repaired. The best advice I can give is to start asking around - there's may be one or two "smaller" shops that need the work and are willing to do it. Dealerships and big popular shops like the "gravy" work so you might have better luck with the independent/small body shops.
I have to ask, is that you playing the riffs at the beginning of your videos?
Yes - it's something I've always messed with but never really got anywhere with it. Now I can use it for something which I'm pretty happy about :)
@@LakesideAutobody I think you play really well. I really liked the riff at the front of this video. Cheers!
@@SomeGuyInSandy Thanks SGS 😊
Awesome video!!!! Should I use bondo glass over my patch? Or the cheap pink bondo filler? Would it be harder for moisture to get through the bondo glass? And if you took that whole fender down to metal what would you use on it or what steps to paint? Thanks
Your choice. I've had very good luck both ways. An old boss required the use of bondo glass first and it worked really well. Can't hurt for an extra layer of protection like you said :)
I ordered a 3/4 quarter panel and will be trying out the glue. Do I need to bondo over the whole panel, Or can I just to the seamed area? The panel I am ordering is 18ga 6' long.
Just the seam - no need to use filler over the whole panel. Just knock the seam down slightly - you're aiming for about 1/8" below the original surface. If you end up with a few high spots - no worries - just tap them down and throw on another coat of filler.
Really glad live in central Texas. No rust! YUCK! Neat seeing how yall patch it. What about behind the welds? Do you ever use weld thru primer and or use a wax base corrosion protection behind your repair?
It's best to treat your repairs after you paint by making sure the panel can drain and stay dry and this - ruclips.net/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/видео.html I don't use weld through as it is not recommended for use with MIG.
I'm doing that on a 68 Firebird right now. I do it exactly the same as you, but I put down a narrow layer of short strand fiberglass directly onto the weld. Then you give that a quick hit with a flap disk to level it off before applying filler. Probably because I worry about my welds not being 100% and ending up with pinholes here and there. Enough to cause an issue once moisture gets in there.
Nice repair!
That's probably the best way to go as that stuff is durable as heck and water proof. If you make sure there is drainage, hit it with a squirt of oil after the repairs it'll last forever. Not sure if you've seen this vid - ruclips.net/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/видео.html Shows how the oil seeps into the pinch weld and protects against future rust :)
@@LakesideAutobody I don't remember watching that video, but I must have. I already liked it lol. I watched it again anyway. Excellent video. I've had people argue with me that lap joints are no good. I've never had a single redo over a lap joint.
Surley Fibre Glass filler first , then Bondo ?
Yes - you can hit it with the glass reinforced filler first then reg filler or I've had very good luck with straight filler :)
What would you charge a customer for a job done with this method?
Body shop prices are all over the map. Some price it really high to discourage you from getting it done. I think a fair shop would charge 2-5 hundred to fix a rust hole like this but when the rust is really bad it could cost thousands. Right now I don't really take on jobs - just doing videos for now but I would probably be around 500. The paint and materials will be around 200 + labor 300. That's a pretty fair price.
Wouldn't it have been better to use waterproof (fiberglass) filler on the seam first and then regular filler. To ensure water does not get into welds?
You can certainly do that - my boss made us use a layer of that first. I used to cheap as regular filler is easier to sand and it never seemed to make any difference. Just my experience though - I think it's because if there is drainage (which I make sure there is), you'll never have rust problems again. Drainage and this ruclips.net/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/видео.html 😊😊
Where are you located. I like your work and would like to do business with you, if you are close enough to bay city.
I'm in St. Helen but right now I'm booked up till fall. What are you working on?
@@LakesideAutobody an hour away. I’d be willing to make the drive. I’ll have to schedule an appointment for later. 99 Tahoe 4 door,mainly focused on left lower quarter below the gas filler, rot from wheel well bottom to water line. And a little bondo work from fill door to taillight, light gouge/scratch
@@LakesideAutobody contact info?
@@gabrielkoby6308 schoolvideolibrary at gmail dot com - feel free to email some pictures. Jerry
LOL I used my nail set tool and hammer to knock down. No way could I trust myself with that body hammer.
Thank you for this video. I've heard other guys mention hammering down the seam but have never seen how it works. This takes the fear out of trying something new and will save me a bunch of time. One question I have is that I once talked to an old hot rod builder who used to do tech service for Eastwood. He told me that rust forms under filler and to prime the metal first. It seems like the primer makes a smooth surface and the filler wouldn't stick as well. Do you think the primer under filler works? Thanks for these videos. I'll be watching them more when I get to patching on my 63 Biscayne.
Do not epoxy prime before filling - a few shops have fallen for this but most don't do it for many good reasons. Remember this.... filler came out 30-40 years before epoxy primer and we were putting filler over bare metal all that time - you'd actually get in trouble (boss) if you were caught putting filler over anything but bare metal. I would say that the only way rust would form under filler is if you leave it outside unpainted for months or years. I'll do a video proving this to be true. I'll put filler over bare metal - leave it outside (vertical) for a month and remove the filler - there will be no rust what so ever.
@@LakesideAutobody Thank You Thank You Thank You
@@rsonweb2060 You're welcome. Don't get me wrong, you can put filler over sanded paint, primer, wood, etc. but best practice by most body shops is filler over bare metal. Have a good week RS :)
@@LakesideAutobody I had watched your video on bare metal vs epoxy pull test. This all tells me the best way to do filler. Thanks again.
Do you play guitar or any other instruments ?
Not really - used to be in a basement band and messed around with bass guitar a bit. How 'bout you?
@@LakesideAutobody
About half the body men I've worked with or have known over the years played some sort of an instrument and drank Alot of beer , must have something to do with the chemicals and dust , lol. I've done body and paint work all my life' about 47 years now
Also played music for about the same length of time ' played out on the road professional for 3 years and ran the shop at the same time
Was Alot easier at the shop working and getting together with the band playing local o the weekends and having a few beers.
Do you still play ?
@@keithclark486 I do still play but the guys I used to play with are dead unfortunately. Too much drinking and other stuff. They were great people though - just had some life issues they couldn't get past i guess. Very emotional fellas but made for pretty good musicians. The one guitarist had super long black hair, smoked all the time super cool personality and just absolutely jammed. Real heavy chunky stuff - I loved his ideas. Never went anywhere with it though. Good times :)
Eye Ownlee kome hear fur da wriffs....
Ey'm glad u leyc em :)
do you play guitar on these intros?
Yes - for some reason that doesn't come easy to me though. Always trying to improve my picking hand.
@@LakesideAutobody the tone is good imho, tell us what gear you are using, amp, guitar also is it all digital or are you using a mic to record ?
@@rcs0296 Here's the set up: Insulated 10x12 old metal shed w/ wood walls. A Crate MX20RC mic'd up (center of speaker) recording with a Tascam DR-05X, A Washburn KC70V using a Seymore Duncan distortion humbucker in the bridge position. Glad you appreciate the sound Richard - have a good weekend :)
@@LakesideAutobody I havent actually done any recording but your setup is very similiar to mine,I could write a book about all of my guitars
just seen this btw,or, dont remember seeing it anyway
@@rcs0296 👍