I was told once you change to aftermarket spur and pinion you have to eliminate the pin system and adjust the mesh manually because the tolerances of the aftermarket gear are slightly different so that cause the mesh to be slightly of, i tried ot myself and i found it to be true
That's usually true but I've been using the gds pinion and spur...you can still use the pin system with these gears. I prefer to use the pin system as this rig does flex alot on big jumps...it helps keep the mesh together.
Tip for beginner and vets. Tho it adds a bit of time when putting metal screws into a plastic tappes hole, find the thread start first by aligning the screw with the hole with almost no force and slowly turning it backwards until you hear/feel a faith click or drop. Then sturn it in the right way. 95% of the time you can find the thread start this way. Finding the thread prevents cross threading. Cross threading will lead to a week threaded connection. So hand start the screw and then use an electric screwdriver.
I ended replacing all my bearings with Jim's SS bearings and also replaced the plastic cover with a Hot Racing cush drive cover. I also replaced the plastic motor mounts with the Hot Racing aluminum one and added several washers/spacers on the the pins. I found as I tightened down the motor mount screws, particularly on rearmost left side screw it would overtighten the pinion when using the pin system. The small washers over the pins sets it perfect while allowing me to tighten down the motor. Also added washers to the motor mount screws to spread the load across the plastic.
I have a 1st gen. XMaxx (pre cush drive). I bought Hot Racing Gear cover, spur and Pinion, and motor mounts. Just to help eliminate the flex in the area. Never had issues since. I've done other thing's ie. Hot Racing diff cups, helical diff gears and the Hot Racing reinforcement plates under the differentials. The only thing I'm really wanting is a Hobby wing Max 6. I still have the first generation speed control that was notorious for catching fire. I just did a few mods to mine, surprised it's still working lol.
Nice 👌 that's some excellent tips 👍 luckily my xmaxx has been behaving over the last few months. I'm now using gpm gears and its made all the difference. I'm still also using the stock electronics. The esc is a little weak but I'm still able to send it! Using 20/50 , 20/46 and now 19/46. All have been good 👍 check out some of my latest bash vids of you get 5 mins....
It seems like you’re reading my mind! Two week old Xmaxx, ran for 30 seconds then no movement. Removed the gear cover (it was jammed; had to use force) and discovered that the whole spur assembly had moved forward and chewed up the plastic parts in front of it. The bearing that is supposed keep it in place have escaped that grey cover! I’m going to have to replace the same parts you did and will use your video for guidance!
Hi. I did alot of wrenching on my xmaxx before I managed to repair it. Turns out my issue was the bearing on the spur and using better gears. I would recommend getting the xmaxx own spur bearing, aluminium gear cover and get yourself a harden steel pinion and GDS steel spur. No other brand is tough enough. I had to replace me rear bulk head because it got damaged by my original spur setup.
HOW TO FIX XMAXX SPUR GEAR ISSUE.. Replace motor with spectrum 1250kv with the 8mm shaft (This is very important). New Aluminum motor mount to match the motor.. and mod 1.5 gears. Trust me.. Long as you do these 3 things and mesh it correctly your gear issues should be GONE. I dealt with this a long time and my issue was the stock motor.. the shaft was not only slightly bent but also the plastic motor mounts where they bolt to the factory plastic motor end caps on the stock motor would constantly loosen up just a tiny bit which would constantly change the mesh from too tight to too loose. Once I did these upgrades after trying everything under the sun for over a year all my issues were gone. Just be sure to get decent quality mod 1.5 gears such as the GPM Spur gear or other hardened gear matched with a GDS Pinion gear as GDS makes the best pinions.
If any of you have issues where your mesh feels tight and then loose again and then tight again this is almost guarenteed to fix it. Also while your in there just be sure to double check all the screws on your cush drive ensuring they stay tight.
I agree, buddy. Flexing plastic is the main reason why gears get stripped on the xmaxx. Poor quality traxxas gears don't help also. Your solution it costly, but will fix the mesh issue for sure👍 unfortunately I couldn't afford to invest that kind of money in my xmaxx, so I had to find a cheaper solution. Tbh, the spectrum 160a esc is perfect for this rig. I actually have one ready to drop in my xmaxx. I have also had good luck with the gds mod 1 spur and pinion. Don't get me wrong, i am a fan of plastic but not everywhere on the car. I feel the motor mounts and spur assembly along with the front and rear differential housing should all be metal as standard. Just my opinion. 🙂 Thx for the comment, dude 👍
Thx. I did end up changing the rear section of the chassis but my advice would be to check the spur shaft bearing and also check the spur shaft is straight. A slight misalignment with cause gears to strip. I am now using gds gears both spur and pinion. They are much stronger than stock. Hope you get it sorted buddy 👍
Maybe you've seen it already, but at 10:00 you can see how the spur gear has dug far into the plastic. That's a lot of binding! Not sure how that's happened, though... Also never seen a hole in that gear cover before! Maybe they're related. But it sounds much better now! The mesh was maybe a bit loose, but hard to say for sure.
Thx for watching buddy...yeah the rear spur bearing had seized up and melted the cover a little also the rubber cushion in the cush drive was damaged. Im hoping both of these things were the reason for me stripping the gears...fingers cross it should be resolved 🤞
Sorry to hear that dude. Have you tried cleaning the grub screw with break cleaner before you put loctite on. I'm considering using red loctite as I also lost a pinion recently with blue.🙁
I just wanna take a moment my brother, and DONT take this in a wrong way, but you did all that hard work and you forgot most important thing to put Aluminum Motor Mount Washers and I bet you my paycheck that you would never strip the spur an opinion. Again, good luck 👍🏻
Thx buddy. I was made aware of them after this install vid went out. At the time I thought if I still had problems then I will get them. Touch wood my initial repairs did work. These washers are a great and cost effective upgrade which I also recommend along with an aluminium super gear cover to make the rig bulletproof 👌 I appreciate your advice buddy and thanks for watching 👍🙂
Yeah. I initially thought the same but no my bulkheads were fine. It turned out to be an issue with spur gear bearing and possible bent spur shaft. Once replaced it was fine..... man I wish traxxas would use rubber sealed bearings.
If you stick to the stock electronics, the drive train on the xmaxx will hold up for the most part, but as soon as you upgrade, expect to start breaking gears. I went with aftermarket harden steel pinion and spur even with stock electronics. Something i feel traxxas should have addressed instead making cosmetic changes and calling the latest version an ultimate.....
Great video I like how took the time to explain the break down. I'm on my second xmaxx and from what I've learned is leave it stock gearing and get the HR spur cover lot better than the stock
Thx buddy...I'm glad you found the video useful. The metal spur cover is definitely a good upgrade. I also swapped out the hr 50t spur for a gds 50t spur instead. Its much better....👍
The only thing I've done is used Robinson Racing Absolute Pinoins and the motor mount braces traxxas offers. I'm running 18/50 gearing with a Traxxas spur and have never stripped a Traxxas spur yet. But I will say the Traxxas stock Pinoins aren't that great, they're a weak point for sure.
Friend, please help me, I'm new to car modeling, I built an onroad car, with a 64pitch pinion with 40T, and a 64pitch 96T spur gear, I use a hobywing 10bl120a esc, the futaba 3pv radio has the end point at 100%, the 10.5T Brushless engine for 1/10 cars in the few laps I drove, the spur gear damaged all the teeth, how can I be doing so that this doesn't happen?
Hi buddy... sounds like the gearing material is weak. As long as the pitch of the gears are the same and the mesh is set right you should be ok. I would probably find some harden steel gears and replace the the pinion and spur.
It might be a pain but I recommend packing each major bearings with grease / not just putting oil but grease- they last way longer and not crap gets in them- before doing that clean them out with break cleaner
So I have a bunch of arrma cars and my buddy has a xmaxx and had to do the same thing you did. I guess Traxxas has problems with the motor shaft walking in and out causing the pinion to strip. I'd try moving the pinion towards the back a tad it looks a little far forward.
Thx for watching dude...I hope I've managed to fix it now. I will look at the mesh again. I may be able to losen it a little. It does sound loud....The weather has been poor so not managed to get out yet to test... Stay tuned to see what happens.
@@inspiredrc for sure man. I have 25 or more rc cars and we have all had these issues that seem like they will never work. I would double check the motor shaft for movement and if it's good move the pinion back a tad. Should be ready for some serious bashing.
Hi. There is a little play in and out but not up and down. I dont think the motor shaft is bent as I would have seen the pinion jumping when I tested on the bench.
How's about NOT going full throttle on landing? But hey I'm old school and rc'ing before the 'bash' was a thing... It's RC 101 son. Unless you just want the clicks that is, which is fair play. Subbed and liked, still a quality vid and handy for rebuilding my cush drive
Hi buddy. I totally agree its not good to land on throttle. Sometimes its unavoidable. But hey... Id rather land on the wheels than land awkwardly and break arms etc. After rebuilding the rear and upgrading the spur and pinion this rig has been bulletproof. I'm glad you found the wrenching part of the vid useful. 👍🙂
@@inspiredrc all of ya vids are useful son, and a good watch. Keep 'em comin. I'm sure your the same, we RC'ers enjoy the wrenching as much as the running👍🏽
@@curbscrape8343 thx brother. I love wrenching and getting lost in the hobby. I've not been well lately so I'm sorry for the late responses. Thank you for your positive comment. It has really picked me up during this difficult time. Thank you 🙏🙂
@@onefingeredfist2465 Hi buddy. I think a spur and pinion upgrade is a must. I found the GDS gears are good. I also found 19t GDS harden steel pinion and a 46t harden steel spur gear is the sweet spot for me. These are widely available on ebay. If you run in the wet then keep an eye on the spur shaft bearing. This can seize up. If you want to make it stronger then an aluminium spur cover would also help. Other than this I have changed the hub bearings to rubber sealed ones. I also recommend getting a set of captured hinge pins for it as well. I hope this helps.
In this video it was a generic Chinese brand. There is a link for it in the video description. Currently I've been using a gds pinion and a gds spur as well which I've found just as tough.
@@inspiredrc oh, also. You can get the Arrma safeD pinion in 18 19 and 20t I believe. It fits the 8s xmaxx stock motor. It's a D shape bore instead of a circle so it doesn't come lose. Just make sure if your using a mod 1 spur you get the mod 1 SafeD pinion.
I am going through this issue now. Frustrating and surely a design flaw. It seems to me the cush drive and how sloppy it gets in the plastic mount is to blame. It doesn't take much to throw out the mesh. I have found it useful to check the play in the spur gear after install, sometimes that cover that holds it down doesn't want to sit in tight enough and needs some persuading.
Hi. Yes unfortunately the traxxas mesh system is reliant on all the plastics being straight. It is easy for the mesh to slip and gears get broken. The spur gear cover is very important... its a good idea to upgrade it to an aluminium one to minimise flex thus saving the spur and pinion.
@@michielpoortvliet3003 here's one available on ebay... www.ebay.co.uk/itm/313399047184?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=tksQZT5TTR6&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=C4SEwFDwTzy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
My issue turned out to be the front motor bearing. It was worn out out just enough to cause enough slop to strip gears. Haven't had an issue since I have replaced it! 🤘😁
Another pack another problem. Bought the truck with 18/46 vitavon gears. Last owner gave me a shit tone of spares so I installed the stock 54 and now the spur hit the driveshaft. I'm about to get rid of it, world's best truck my a$$ can't even finish a full pack without something going wrong.
Sorry to hear that buddy. The biggest I've run is 18/50. Sounds like your spur is too big. I would try stock spurs with a bigger pinions instead. Plz note.. The stock vxl esc can't handle big gearing. It will thermal cut out every 10mins. If you use tall gears then you will have upgrade the electronics as well.
@@inspiredrc I heard about the thermal shutdown, although I wish that was my problem, haven't had an issue on that department. Truck has never been more than 9ft off the ground and I busted every gear on it, split the rear diff cup, bent the shaft, cracked two shock caps. All the wrenching has made the threads weeks and that is why gears keep breaking, it allows for to much flex around critical parts. I'm gonna get m4 threaded rods cut them to lengths and epoxy them into what I belive are critical areas so that I can use a nut at the other side. Diff covers are going to be the first and also the cover that holds the spur shaft. There is just too much play going on there and I'm sure that is the main culprit into all this damaged spurs and pinions. Also gonna epoxy nuts to the back of the motor mounts, that is a critical spot and the plastic mounts are just a gimmick.
@@marcosmatos8213 man your rig sounds a little worn out. Threaded bar sounds like a good idea especially on the spur cover and motor. I feel traxxas need to upgrade to a metal spur cover and motor mounts. I've also installed a 2 part drive shaft with a bearing and coupler to link them. Highly recommended....May be it would be a good idea to replace the front and rear bulk heads as well as a center chassis. All these parts are very cheap and will pretty much renew the rig. The geometry of the rig will be perfect again which will help with the pinion/spur mesh.
Also the other half of the problem is I see you landing on the throttle which will always make something break lol. Your air control definitely needs improvement, your adjustments are too aggressive and your timing needs to be quicker to react.
Landing on throttle will always end badly. Fortunately my skill level has got better. I'm now using gds spur and pinion and these have been bullet proof. Highly recommended 👌
This spur setup has been in and out so many times that I've just not bothered putting it in🙁 I didn't see much grease when I first ever removed it but if you can it could probably do with some.
Thx dude... surprisingly the motor was fine. Imo the issue was with the spur shaft bearing and possibly the rear bulk head. I think it may have warped as it all plastic. In any case after swapping the rear bulk head and spur assembly everything has been OK. 🙂
It's your style of driving. I noticed you throttled at the wrong point of one of those flips. It has to be cometely free rolling and under no power when landing.
Yeah landng on throttle will always put extra stress on the gears and usually end badly. I have learnt from my past mistakes and now have better skills along with better gearing. If you get 5 mins do check out one of my latest bash vids.... ruclips.net/video/VjTuazqiQlY/видео.html
Dude I agree. Traxxas need to update the rig to be more in-line with whats available on the market now....in its current state it should be cheaper so ppl can upgrade the weak parts.
I think the Traxxas CEO was drinking a CORONA VIRUS BEER instead of a BUD LIGHT......he's prolly like whatever let's just make money ppl....we'll fix problems later... 😂
Yep and all they had to do was make those gears twice as wide and I imagine that alone makes them last a lifetime. .. but then we wouldn’t be going back to buy their shit.. it’s called planned obsolescence… corporate bs
Yeah buddy. Unfortunately my xmaxx was underpowered to do these stunts at the time. Landing on throttle is never good for the drive train. I did also have an issue with the alignment of the drive train which also contributed to stripping gears. I did however manager to fix my rig and its been fine ever since. Check out some of my latest bash vids if you get a chance buddy. You will be able to see how well it takes the jumps now. ruclips.net/video/VjTuazqiQlY/видео.html
Yes your 100% correct.. I try not to land on throttle but sometimes its unavoidable. Stronger gears will help absorbe some if then nasty hits. I found the gds gears can take some abuse.
It is if you overpower it. I recommend to try to get the max out of the stock power system and maybe a max 6 esc upgrade. My xmaxx has done me well over the past 3 years. I've kept it stock because it has the light kit installed.just messed with the gearing. Honestly, out of all my cars, I've spent the least on the xmaxx in breakages and general maintenance.
I was told once you change to aftermarket spur and pinion you have to eliminate the pin system and adjust the mesh manually because the tolerances of the aftermarket gear are slightly different so that cause the mesh to be slightly of, i tried ot myself and i found it to be true
That's usually true but I've been using the gds pinion and spur...you can still use the pin system with these gears. I prefer to use the pin system as this rig does flex alot on big jumps...it helps keep the mesh together.
Tip for beginner and vets. Tho it adds a bit of time when putting metal screws into a plastic tappes hole, find the thread start first by aligning the screw with the hole with almost no force and slowly turning it backwards until you hear/feel a faith click or drop. Then sturn it in the right way. 95% of the time you can find the thread start this way. Finding the thread prevents cross threading. Cross threading will lead to a week threaded connection. So hand start the screw and then use an electric screwdriver.
That's some sound advise buddy 👍👌
Or just use wood screws like thunder rc 😂
I ended replacing all my bearings with Jim's SS bearings and also replaced the plastic cover with a Hot Racing cush drive cover. I also replaced the plastic motor mounts with the Hot Racing aluminum one and added several washers/spacers on the the pins. I found as I tightened down the motor mount screws, particularly on rearmost left side screw it would overtighten the pinion when using the pin system. The small washers over the pins sets it perfect while allowing me to tighten down the motor. Also added washers to the motor mount screws to spread the load across the plastic.
Dude that sounds really good all of them with help the drivetrain. Im gona get them bits for mine. The cush drive cover is a must👍
Replacing the plastic cover with the HR one is expensive but probably a very good idea because it has to keep the pinion bearing in place!
Thanks
I have a 1st gen. XMaxx (pre cush drive). I bought Hot Racing Gear cover, spur and Pinion, and motor mounts. Just to help eliminate the flex in the area. Never had issues since. I've done other thing's ie. Hot Racing diff cups, helical diff gears and the Hot Racing reinforcement plates under the differentials. The only thing I'm really wanting is a Hobby wing Max 6. I still have the first generation speed control that was notorious for catching fire. I just did a few mods to mine, surprised it's still working lol.
Nice 👌 that's some excellent tips 👍 luckily my xmaxx has been behaving over the last few months. I'm now using gpm gears and its made all the difference. I'm still also using the stock electronics. The esc is a little weak but I'm still able to send it! Using 20/50 , 20/46 and now 19/46. All have been good 👍 check out some of my latest bash vids of you get 5 mins....
It seems like you’re reading my mind! Two week old Xmaxx, ran for 30 seconds then no movement. Removed the gear cover (it was jammed; had to use force) and discovered that the whole spur assembly had moved forward and chewed up the plastic parts in front of it. The bearing that is supposed keep it in place have escaped that grey cover!
I’m going to have to replace the same parts you did and will use your video for guidance!
Hi. I did alot of wrenching on my xmaxx before I managed to repair it. Turns out my issue was the bearing on the spur and using better gears. I would recommend getting the xmaxx own spur bearing, aluminium gear cover and get yourself a harden steel pinion and GDS steel spur. No other brand is tough enough. I had to replace me rear bulk head because it got damaged by my original spur setup.
The plate still only.screws into plastic which was likely what you damaged
HOW TO FIX XMAXX SPUR GEAR ISSUE.. Replace motor with spectrum 1250kv with the 8mm shaft (This is very important). New Aluminum motor mount to match the motor.. and mod 1.5 gears. Trust me.. Long as you do these 3 things and mesh it correctly your gear issues should be GONE. I dealt with this a long time and my issue was the stock motor.. the shaft was not only slightly bent but also the plastic motor mounts where they bolt to the factory plastic motor end caps on the stock motor would constantly loosen up just a tiny bit which would constantly change the mesh from too tight to too loose. Once I did these upgrades after trying everything under the sun for over a year all my issues were gone.
Just be sure to get decent quality mod 1.5 gears such as the GPM Spur gear or other hardened gear matched with a GDS Pinion gear as GDS makes the best pinions.
If any of you have issues where your mesh feels tight and then loose again and then tight again this is almost guarenteed to fix it. Also while your in there just be sure to double check all the screws on your cush drive ensuring they stay tight.
I agree, buddy. Flexing plastic is the main reason why gears get stripped on the xmaxx. Poor quality traxxas gears don't help also.
Your solution it costly, but will fix the mesh issue for sure👍 unfortunately I couldn't afford to invest that kind of money in my xmaxx, so I had to find a cheaper solution.
Tbh, the spectrum 160a esc is perfect for this rig. I actually have one ready to drop in my xmaxx. I have also had good luck with the gds mod 1 spur and pinion.
Don't get me wrong, i am a fan of plastic but not everywhere on the car. I feel the motor mounts and spur assembly along with the front and rear differential housing should all be metal as standard. Just my opinion. 🙂
Thx for the comment, dude 👍
Your mesh sounds perfect to me.
Thx buddy. Its been fine since I did the fix.👍
Hi there...I'm having the same issue with my xrt it's a nightmare...great vid..cheers..
Thx. I did end up changing the rear section of the chassis but my advice would be to check the spur shaft bearing and also check the spur shaft is straight. A slight misalignment with cause gears to strip. I am now using gds gears both spur and pinion. They are much stronger than stock. Hope you get it sorted buddy 👍
@@inspiredrc thanks dude..will look into it...cheers ...
Maybe you've seen it already, but at 10:00 you can see how the spur gear has dug far into the plastic. That's a lot of binding! Not sure how that's happened, though... Also never seen a hole in that gear cover before! Maybe they're related. But it sounds much better now! The mesh was maybe a bit loose, but hard to say for sure.
Thx for watching buddy...yeah the rear spur bearing had seized up and melted the cover a little also the rubber cushion in the cush drive was damaged. Im hoping both of these things were the reason for me stripping the gears...fingers cross it should be resolved 🤞
I’ve had issues with my gears too but not stripping but coming off or shifting. Ever since I went mod 1.5
Sorry to hear that dude. Have you tried cleaning the grub screw with break cleaner before you put loctite on. I'm considering using red loctite as I also lost a pinion recently with blue.🙁
@@inspiredrc I’ve been told this by a few ppl. I am waiting for my new grub screws I ordered and I will do this.
I just wanna take a moment my brother, and DONT take this in a wrong way, but you did all that hard work and you forgot most important thing to put Aluminum Motor Mount Washers and I bet you my paycheck that you would never strip the spur an opinion. Again, good luck 👍🏻
Thx buddy. I was made aware of them after this install vid went out. At the time I thought if I still had problems then I will get them. Touch wood my initial repairs did work. These washers are a great and cost effective upgrade which I also recommend along with an aluminium super gear cover to make the rig bulletproof 👌
I appreciate your advice buddy and thanks for watching 👍🙂
Totally agree. I was having same striping gears issue. I put the mount in and have had no more issues at all.
Excellent 👍
Did you find any cracks or breaks in the bulk head ?? My xmaxx eats mod one gears but have no issues with mod 1.5 all stock xmaxx
Yeah. I initially thought the same but no my bulkheads were fine. It turned out to be an issue with spur gear bearing and possible bent spur shaft. Once replaced it was fine..... man I wish traxxas would use rubber sealed bearings.
The cush drive is ruff but durable i like the slipper that came on the 6s and the driveline like it too 😊
If you stick to the stock electronics, the drive train on the xmaxx will hold up for the most part, but as soon as you upgrade, expect to start breaking gears. I went with aftermarket harden steel pinion and spur even with stock electronics. Something i feel traxxas should have addressed instead making cosmetic changes and calling the latest version an ultimate.....
Great video I like how took the time to explain the break down. I'm on my second xmaxx and from what I've learned is leave it stock gearing and get the HR spur cover lot better than the stock
Thx buddy...I'm glad you found the video useful. The metal spur cover is definitely a good upgrade. I also swapped out the hr 50t spur for a gds 50t spur instead. Its much better....👍
@@inspiredrc what is the benefit of metal spur cover??
@@BigCheese85 the metal cover will not flex and will hold the spur shaft firmly in place. This will stop the gears stripping.
The vid was of great help thabks man
no problem...glad you found it useful.🙂
The only thing I've done is used Robinson Racing Absolute Pinoins and the motor mount braces traxxas offers. I'm running 18/50 gearing with a Traxxas spur and have never stripped a Traxxas spur yet. But I will say the Traxxas stock Pinoins aren't that great, they're a weak point for sure.
Yeah your right... I think traxxas make their pinions weak so they break easily to protect the drive train.
Try part #7786X I will support the outside of Cush drive and support the spur gear. just a thought ?
Thx buddy. I will check it out 👍
Hello my friend! Are there no problems for the stock electronics to use the 20-tooth pinion? In the manual it is not recommended. Thanks
Hi buddy. Yeah I've not had any issues running 20 /46 gearing. However I would use harden steel spur and pinion.
Thanks !!! @@inspiredrc
I ended up doing the 1.5 mod conversion by wfo company been going strong now 1 year.
👍 them wfo gears are super beefy 💪it was my final solution if the gds gears didn't work. So far my 20/50gds gears have held up well. 🙂
Do they sell 1.5 mod gears with a 5 mm bore? For stock motor
The homes at the end remind me of Deal.
Great job my friend can you please put a link where can we find these parts
Thx dude. Yes I will put links in the description.👍
Friend, please help me, I'm new to car modeling, I built an onroad car, with a 64pitch pinion with 40T, and a 64pitch 96T spur gear, I use a hobywing 10bl120a esc, the futaba 3pv radio has the end point at 100%, the 10.5T Brushless engine for 1/10 cars in the few laps I drove, the spur gear damaged all the teeth, how can I be doing so that this doesn't happen?
Hi buddy... sounds like the gearing material is weak. As long as the pitch of the gears are the same and the mesh is set right you should be ok. I would probably find some harden steel gears and replace the the pinion and spur.
It might be a pain but I recommend packing each major bearings with grease / not just putting oil but grease- they last way longer and not crap gets in them- before doing that clean them out with break cleaner
So sound advise buddy. If you can I would recommend upgrading them to rubber sealed ones.
@@inspiredrc i use the blue sealed ones
So I have a bunch of arrma cars and my buddy has a xmaxx and had to do the same thing you did. I guess Traxxas has problems with the motor shaft walking in and out causing the pinion to strip. I'd try moving the pinion towards the back a tad it looks a little far forward.
Thx for watching dude...I hope I've managed to fix it now. I will look at the mesh again. I may be able to losen it a little. It does sound loud....The weather has been poor so not managed to get out yet to test... Stay tuned to see what happens.
@@inspiredrc for sure man. I have 25 or more rc cars and we have all had these issues that seem like they will never work. I would double check the motor shaft for movement and if it's good move the pinion back a tad. Should be ready for some serious bashing.
@@joshherrman3201 thanks pal. I will adjust. Fingers crossed it will work 🤞
Any play at the motor output shaft?
Is the output shaft straight?
Look forward to seeing the next bash 😃
Hi. There is a little play in and out but not up and down. I dont think the motor shaft is bent as I would have seen the pinion jumping when I tested on the bench.
Perfect ! France 🇨🇵💯👍
Excellent! Thx for watching👍🙂
How's about NOT going full throttle on landing? But hey I'm old school and rc'ing before the 'bash' was a thing... It's RC 101 son. Unless you just want the clicks that is, which is fair play. Subbed and liked, still a quality vid and handy for rebuilding my cush drive
Hi buddy. I totally agree its not good to land on throttle. Sometimes its unavoidable. But hey... Id rather land on the wheels than land awkwardly and break arms etc. After rebuilding the rear and upgrading the spur and pinion this rig has been bulletproof. I'm glad you found the wrenching part of the vid useful. 👍🙂
@@inspiredrc all of ya vids are useful son, and a good watch. Keep 'em comin. I'm sure your the same, we RC'ers enjoy the wrenching as much as the running👍🏽
@@curbscrape8343 thx brother. I love wrenching and getting lost in the hobby. I've not been well lately so I'm sorry for the late responses. Thank you for your positive comment. It has really picked me up during this difficult time. Thank you 🙏🙂
@@inspiredrc what parts are working good for you now? I’m about to buy one and want to know what I’ll need
@@onefingeredfist2465 Hi buddy. I think a spur and pinion upgrade is a must. I found the GDS gears are good. I also found 19t GDS harden steel pinion and a 46t harden steel spur gear is the sweet spot for me. These are widely available on ebay. If you run in the wet then keep an eye on the spur shaft bearing. This can seize up. If you want to make it stronger then an aluminium spur cover would also help.
Other than this I have changed the hub bearings to rubber sealed ones. I also recommend getting a set of captured hinge pins for it as well.
I hope this helps.
what's brand pinion gear 20p thank you
In this video it was a generic Chinese brand. There is a link for it in the video description. Currently I've been using a gds pinion and a gds spur as well which I've found just as tough.
Wanted to mention, the motor mount washers are Traxxas part #7759.
Thx ive ordered them buddy 👍 I had the car out yesterday for a test. Vid comming soon. 🙂
That gds spur is awsome by the way. Ive also ordered the 46t. Much better than the hot racing ones....thx Justin 👍👍
@@inspiredrc that's awesome. Hope all is good now.
@@inspiredrc oh, also. You can get the Arrma safeD pinion in 18 19 and 20t I believe. It fits the 8s xmaxx stock motor. It's a D shape bore instead of a circle so it doesn't come lose. Just make sure if your using a mod 1 spur you get the mod 1 SafeD pinion.
@@justinf5963thx pal. I have got a 23t arrma pinion. They are strong. Ive not had any issues with my 8s arrmas....👍👍
Look through shock tower and you can see the flat spot
I am going through this issue now. Frustrating and surely a design flaw. It seems to me the cush drive and how sloppy it gets in the plastic mount is to blame. It doesn't take much to throw out the mesh. I have found it useful to check the play in the spur gear after install, sometimes that cover that holds it down doesn't want to sit in tight enough and needs some persuading.
Hi. Yes unfortunately the traxxas mesh system is reliant on all the plastics being straight. It is easy for the mesh to slip and gears get broken. The spur gear cover is very important... its a good idea to upgrade it to an aluminium one to minimise flex thus saving the spur and pinion.
Do you have link to that aluminium gear cover? Im stripping pinions like a idiot
@@michielpoortvliet3003 here's one available on ebay...
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/313399047184?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=tksQZT5TTR6&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=C4SEwFDwTzy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
My issue turned out to be the front motor bearing. It was worn out out just enough to cause enough slop to strip gears. Haven't had an issue since I have replaced it! 🤘😁
@@alistairclark6814 excellent buddy. Similar issue I had with a failed bearing.
You need a better esc so yoh can adjust the brakes better on the XMax and XRTs
Agree the max 6 160amp esc is perfect for the xmaxx. Much better than stock 👍
@inspiredrc that's the one I put in my XRT woke it up great.
Another pack another problem. Bought the truck with 18/46 vitavon gears. Last owner gave me a shit tone of spares so I installed the stock 54 and now the spur hit the driveshaft. I'm about to get rid of it, world's best truck my a$$ can't even finish a full pack without something going wrong.
Sorry to hear that buddy. The biggest I've run is 18/50. Sounds like your spur is too big. I would try stock spurs with a bigger pinions instead. Plz note.. The stock vxl esc can't handle big gearing. It will thermal cut out every 10mins. If you use tall gears then you will have upgrade the electronics as well.
@@inspiredrc I heard about the thermal shutdown, although I wish that was my problem, haven't had an issue on that department. Truck has never been more than 9ft off the ground and I busted every gear on it, split the rear diff cup, bent the shaft, cracked two shock caps. All the wrenching has made the threads weeks and that is why gears keep breaking, it allows for to much flex around critical parts. I'm gonna get m4 threaded rods cut them to lengths and epoxy them into what I belive are critical areas so that I can use a nut at the other side. Diff covers are going to be the first and also the cover that holds the spur shaft. There is just too much play going on there and I'm sure that is the main culprit into all this damaged spurs and pinions. Also gonna epoxy nuts to the back of the motor mounts, that is a critical spot and the plastic mounts are just a gimmick.
@@marcosmatos8213 man your rig sounds a little worn out. Threaded bar sounds like a good idea especially on the spur cover and motor. I feel traxxas need to upgrade to a metal spur cover and motor mounts. I've also installed a 2 part drive shaft with a bearing and coupler to link them. Highly recommended....May be it would be a good idea to replace the front and rear bulk heads as well as a center chassis. All these parts are very cheap and will pretty much renew the rig. The geometry of the rig will be perfect again which will help with the pinion/spur mesh.
Also the other half of the problem is I see you landing on the throttle which will always make something break lol. Your air control definitely needs improvement, your adjustments are too aggressive and your timing needs to be quicker to react.
Landing on throttle will always end badly. Fortunately my skill level has got better. I'm now using gds spur and pinion and these have been bullet proof. Highly recommended 👌
No grease inside that grey cover??
This spur setup has been in and out so many times that I've just not bothered putting it in🙁 I didn't see much grease when I first ever removed it but if you can it could probably do with some.
My 1st 8s Xmaxx is still sitting because of this it has 2 hours of run time and thats just running on pavement no bashing
Nice buddy. The best all round 8s rig! Enjoy! 🙂
A little grease wouldn't hurt.
Q velozmidad a garra a 50/20
I have managed to get around 45mph on grass i think with 20/46 gearing. I expect to get around 43mph with 20/50 gearing.
Gracias saludos desde Laredo Texas 😊👍🏻
Great videos but I'll bet your motor bearings are worn out and allowing the pinion to wobble around and strip the gears.
Thx dude... surprisingly the motor was fine. Imo the issue was with the spur shaft bearing and possibly the rear bulk head. I think it may have warped as it all plastic. In any case after swapping the rear bulk head and spur assembly everything has been OK. 🙂
@@inspiredrc Thanks for the reply. :)
It's your style of driving. I noticed you throttled at the wrong point of one of those flips. It has to be cometely free rolling and under no power when landing.
Yeah landng on throttle will always put extra stress on the gears and usually end badly. I have learnt from my past mistakes and now have better skills along with better gearing. If you get 5 mins do check out one of my latest bash vids.... ruclips.net/video/VjTuazqiQlY/видео.html
Love this vid. Where is the track? So I guess you have that issue sorted now then?
@@thegooserider7245 it's in the UK. Yeah since upgrading the gears to gds it has helped alot.
@@inspiredrc are you running stock motor and ESC?
Yeah. Running 20/46 gearing I think.
Why does Traxxas continue to sell high dollar cars that's not worth the money is beyond me. 900 us. For Xmaxx but out of box,, not good.
Dude I agree. Traxxas need to update the rig to be more in-line with whats available on the market now....in its current state it should be cheaper so ppl can upgrade the weak parts.
I think the Traxxas CEO was drinking a CORONA VIRUS BEER instead of a BUD LIGHT......he's prolly like whatever let's just make money ppl....we'll fix problems later... 😂
Yep and all they had to do was make those gears twice as wide and I imagine that alone makes them last a lifetime. .. but then we wouldn’t be going back to buy their shit.. it’s called planned obsolescence… corporate bs
@@papermaker2726 very good reply
Every one of those jumps in the beginning you were on throttle.
Yeah buddy. Unfortunately my xmaxx was underpowered to do these stunts at the time. Landing on throttle is never good for the drive train. I did also have an issue with the alignment of the drive train which also contributed to stripping gears. I did however manager to fix my rig and its been fine ever since. Check out some of my latest bash vids if you get a chance buddy. You will be able to see how well it takes the jumps now.
ruclips.net/video/VjTuazqiQlY/видео.html
You realy should not land on power it eats your gears
Yes your 100% correct.. I try not to land on throttle but sometimes its unavoidable. Stronger gears will help absorbe some if then nasty hits. I found the gds gears can take some abuse.
The only way to fix a xmaxx is too sell it. It's a money pit repairs never stop
It is if you overpower it. I recommend to try to get the max out of the stock power system and maybe a max 6 esc upgrade. My xmaxx has done me well over the past 3 years. I've kept it stock because it has the light kit installed.just messed with the gearing. Honestly, out of all my cars, I've spent the least on the xmaxx in breakages and general maintenance.