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as a trucker get out and look and when pulling forward out of any parking spot back up with your trailer brakes on to make sure your king pin is seated and pull forward just a little while watching your trailer to make sure it don't come off your 5th wheel.
I painted the bottom portion of my king pin bright yellow, and the jaws of the B&W bright red. When I check, it's super easy to see that I'm not high hitched, even in low light.
As a retired heavy haul trucker I always do a pull test. Once I have hooked up I visually check that the jaws are closed and the release handle is behind the lock pin.
I had the BW turnover ball installed in my 2011 F250 with 6.8 ft bed. Added the BW companion 5th wheel hitch. Love the combination. I was told to always look at the 5th wheel hitch from the rear to make sure the jaws are fully closed. I do a tug test also with the front jacks still down. I can nearly get 90 degrees with my setup. My next truck will have an 8 ft bed.
I do the tug with everything up, rear chocks still in place and front feet about 1/2 inch off ground. My truck can overcome the brakes on the trailer, so I do not want to be stressing the landing gear each time I test.
@jeremiiah1797 If you are manually applying the trailer brakes and the wheels are not locked up solid your brakes need adjusted. You shouldn't need to block the tires to do a tug test.
I have a gooseneck connect by Lippert instead of a 5th wheel hitch. I love it, unlike the goosebox it does not have an airbag but it is approved for use on my Lippert frame without voiding the warrantee and the goosebox does not match the bolt pattern on the rhino frames so it was that or a Gen Y and the Gen Y void the warrantee. I like not having the hitch in my bed when I am not towing, and with 2 bed cameras I can line it up quite quickly. I have the factory camera in to the bed then I added a license plate camera to the aux camera plug on my 2019 F350 that is on the side of the bed (kinda like what JD from BTBRV did on his red truck), no harder than a bumper pull. The thing to note with a gooseneck and I am going to be specific to California as that is what I know is the limit to a non commercial class A changes. The rules for the class A in California is over 10k gvwr on a bumper pull or 15k gvwr on a 5th wheel. This is hitch type not trailer type, a gooseneck is considered the same as a bumper pull (not actually called bumper pull in the handbooks) so the limit is 10k and most 5th wheels will be over that limit. I had this confirmed by my class A examiner when I explained the trailer was class A (can't take the test with a non Class A trailer) because of that. The downside is the CA DMV have no clue about non commercial class A licenses so applying can be a major pain, the road test is easy as the examiners know just not the desk staff. When I applied there were lots of manager interactions and calls to Sacramento to figure it all out.
Another great video Tom! Thanks also to Laser for his expertise. I wish he would have also touched on the Anderson Ultimate 5th Wheel Hitch and the Curt Crosswing hitches.
Another nugget of high importance is to check the torque settings on your fifth wheel hitch mounting nuts that secure it to the bed. I check mine at least 4 times a year or so, bcuz we FT and log about 12-14K miles a year. There is a lot of weight on the hitch in addition to all the shock, vibration, stops and starts, so this has a tendency to loosen the nuts. I’ve had to retorque several times. Also, I routinely check the torque setting about once a month on our triple axle 5ver. Just my 2 cent contribution to your gooood video Tom. 👍😃🍻
that is the correct way to test a fifth-wheel connection. always do a tug test. now retired, but for 40+ years of driving for pay. the last 5 running the yard goat. ALWAYS test before moving, including if you stopped for a brake. seen many a kid, drop a trailer. but do not forget to raise your landing gear. check ALL your lights. under DOT regs each light is a pull over ticket.
I dont completely retract the the landing gear on my 5th wheel when hooking up. i get out when connected and insert the safety pin then do a pull test. Only at this time do i retract the landing gear all the way.
Don't do it!!! Look at all the videos and pictures of the Failures those frail setups have. Just buy a Gen-Y Executive with the B&W ball and you are safe and have a great ride.
What are the advantages and disadvantages of the new Rease gooseneck pinbox for over the road. Advertized as will not void any warranty on any lippert 5th wheel frame, not sure about other frames. And are there any other Goosneck pinboxes that are good and wont void warranties.
I'm not certain but have seen some articles where if you have a pin box and get the gooseneck adapter it changes where the stress goes on the pin box and can possibly cause issues. So maybe change entire box out to gooseneck from what I've seen
Why doesn't anyone ever mention 5th wheel height on how high or low your 5th wheel should be to prevent damage in say like a dip turn? Curious as I would like to know. I've been lucky so far as having it set to the middle but wondering if I should go to the highest setting and how would that effect the geometry of the set up??
I don't do the tug test.... because I have a Gen Y now😅. I did when I had my BW companion, though. Live my Gen Y I also loved my BW. I love having my bed back more though.
I was a little confused about putting the b&w back into towing position. It locks when the slide is deployed, so you have to unlock it when returning to towing position.
I have the B&W. To move it to the rear maneuvering position, lift the lever and drive forward. You'll hear the lever lock in place. To move back to the driving position, lift (unlock) the lever and back up until the lever drops back to the locked position again. I really like this hitch.
I don't recommend converting a fifth wheel hitch to a gooseneck, especially with 40' and longer newer trailers. There's too many frame flex problems these days. A gooseneck setup puts more stress on the frame.
Andersen is the answer! No moving parts and can be set for either shorted or long bed towing. Also you get the secure connection of a gooseneck and no chucking like 5th wheel hitches especially sliders.
@@johnmiller6197 I don't have safety chains on mine. Also the whole safety chains with goosenecks is federal law. Just like everything else government begin Hypocrites.. jaws in 5th wheel can fail just as much as gooseneck can.
@@rapierce99 Obsorb what energy? Just Google it or look here on RUclips. People have had them bend crack and completely fold up. The piece that hooks to the kingpin comes loose and swings sideways and makes your trailer track t one side. It's crazy that those things are still legal to use on the highway.
Some expert... He IS MISTAKEN about that Patriot slider going back simply by "backing up afterwards"... It 'locks in' both ways = release the lever to move either direction...
I believe the so called ‘fifth wheel ‘at least on a double axle trailer is the hitch , 1 hitch = 1 wheel .. not sure why on a triple axle trailer the hitch is not referred as the 7th wheel ?
Fifths wheel originated from the trucking industry. Originally truck tractors were 2 axles with 4 wheels. The hitch is round like a wheel, hence fifth wheel. Still called that today regardless of the number of axles and wheels
The reason why gooseneck trailers require safety chains is that the trucking industry special interests lobbied the DOT to not require safety chains for kingpin (5th wheel) hitches. The "gooseneck" industry just didn't have the money backing (ie: they are farmers, ranchers, contractors) to do the same. In general, goosenecks are safer and stronger.
So if you pull a toy hauler that has heavy toys in the garage, then how in the hell are you supposed to equal out the weight so that you are adding the same amount of weight or more is on the front of the camper? That doesn't even make sense. Sure, when it comes to other 5th wheels, you want to make sure that you are not overloading the rear of the camper, but that is rarely a problem with a toy hauler, because they are designed to be so front heavy to begin with. But when you load your toys, it makes sense that it would decrease your hitch weight, more or less... I think that, generally speaking, you will decrease the hitch weight by approximately 100 lbs for every 1000 lbs you load in the garage, though it really all depends on where the axles are located on the camper, and your millage may vary accordingly. But when it comes to most toy haulers, you can pretty much load everything in the garage, and the front end will still be the heaviest part of the camper. Just make sure that your hitch weigh on any 5th wheel caper whether or not it is a toy hauler is at least 15% of the trailers entire weight, and that is all you really need to worry about. But when it comes to most toy haulers, good luck putting enough weight in the garage to reduce the hitch weight so that the front end is less that 15% of the total weight of the trailer without overloading the tires and axles.
The sliding hitches should never be a consideration, or available on the market. They leave too much room for human error (and as we all know, none of us has ever made any mistakes) Just do it right and buy the truck that will do the job the right way.
And there needs to be a towing endorsement like a motorcycle. It’s not 100% but it will help keep the stupids away that shouldn’t be towing anyway. Nothing wrong with a sliding hitch for short beds. Some trucks can’t have a long bed…
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Enjoy The Journey . Life, All Rights Reserved
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I love my B&W hitch I use for my Alliance 5th wheel.
B&W slider for me works great 👍
as a trucker get out and look and when pulling forward out of any parking spot back up with your trailer brakes on to make sure your king pin is seated and pull forward just a little while watching your trailer to make sure it don't come off your 5th wheel.
No tug test needed if you use a B&W Companion. You can visually see that it is locked.
I painted the bottom portion of my king pin bright yellow, and the jaws of the B&W bright red. When I check, it's super easy to see that I'm not high hitched, even in low light.
That's its why I love my Anderson Ultimate hitch. 7 years now.
Great video! Great topic!
As a retired heavy haul trucker I always do a pull test. Once I have hooked up I visually check that the jaws are closed and the release handle is behind the lock pin.
Oh, I have a curt A20 with a curt turning point pin box.
I had the BW turnover ball installed in my 2011 F250 with 6.8 ft bed. Added the BW companion 5th wheel hitch. Love the combination. I was told to always look at the 5th wheel hitch from the rear to make sure the jaws are fully closed. I do a tug test also with the front jacks still down. I can nearly get 90 degrees with my setup. My next truck will have an 8 ft bed.
I do the tug with everything up, rear chocks still in place and front feet about 1/2 inch off ground. My truck can overcome the brakes on the trailer, so I do not want to be stressing the landing gear each time I test.
@jeremiiah1797 If you are manually applying the trailer brakes and the wheels are not locked up solid your brakes need adjusted. You shouldn't need to block the tires to do a tug test.
Thank you for covering this very important safety measure. These are things that many people dont think about.
Enjoy life and safe travels.
Thanks for watching!
B&W is the best. Wiuld never use anything else.
I have a gooseneck connect by Lippert instead of a 5th wheel hitch. I love it, unlike the goosebox it does not have an airbag but it is approved for use on my Lippert frame without voiding the warrantee and the goosebox does not match the bolt pattern on the rhino frames so it was that or a Gen Y and the Gen Y void the warrantee. I like not having the hitch in my bed when I am not towing, and with 2 bed cameras I can line it up quite quickly. I have the factory camera in to the bed then I added a license plate camera to the aux camera plug on my 2019 F350 that is on the side of the bed (kinda like what JD from BTBRV did on his red truck), no harder than a bumper pull. The thing to note with a gooseneck and I am going to be specific to California as that is what I know is the limit to a non commercial class A changes. The rules for the class A in California is over 10k gvwr on a bumper pull or 15k gvwr on a 5th wheel. This is hitch type not trailer type, a gooseneck is considered the same as a bumper pull (not actually called bumper pull in the handbooks) so the limit is 10k and most 5th wheels will be over that limit. I had this confirmed by my class A examiner when I explained the trailer was class A (can't take the test with a non Class A trailer) because of that. The downside is the CA DMV have no clue about non commercial class A licenses so applying can be a major pain, the road test is easy as the examiners know just not the desk staff. When I applied there were lots of manager interactions and calls to Sacramento to figure it all out.
My fifthwheel hitch Slam locks in place. Solid steer bar slide across behind the kingpin once it fully enters
Another great video Tom! Thanks also to Laser for his expertise. I wish he would have also touched on the Anderson Ultimate 5th Wheel Hitch and the Curt Crosswing hitches.
Another nugget of high importance is to check the torque settings on your fifth wheel hitch mounting nuts that secure it to the bed. I check mine at least 4 times a year or so, bcuz we FT and log about 12-14K miles a year.
There is a lot of weight on the hitch in addition to all the shock, vibration, stops and starts, so this has a tendency to loosen the nuts. I’ve had to retorque several times. Also, I routinely check the torque setting about once a month on our triple axle 5ver.
Just my 2 cent contribution to your gooood video Tom.
👍😃🍻
B&W makes a solid, easy to use product. Contrary to what was said in the video, the B&W slider locks into both the towing, and maneuvering positions.
I just apply the trailer brake to full and put it in gear and let off the brake before I raise my front feet. The truck shouldn’t move.
that is the correct way to test a fifth-wheel connection. always do a tug test.
now retired, but for 40+ years of driving for pay. the last 5 running the yard goat. ALWAYS test before moving, including if you stopped for a brake.
seen many a kid, drop a trailer. but do not forget to raise your landing gear. check ALL your lights. under DOT regs each light is a pull over ticket.
Just get an Anderson hitch for your 5th wheel and you won’t have a problem. Great turning, smooth ride and easy to attach. Old Chief
I dont completely retract the the landing gear on my 5th wheel when hooking up. i get out when connected and insert the safety pin then do a pull test. Only at this time do i retract the landing gear all the way.
I would like to hear his thoughts on the Anserson hitch.
Don't do it!!! Look at all the videos and pictures of the Failures those frail setups have.
Just buy a Gen-Y Executive with the B&W ball and you are safe and have a great ride.
What are the advantages and disadvantages of the new Rease gooseneck pinbox for over the road. Advertized as will not void any warranty on any lippert 5th wheel frame, not sure about other frames. And are there any other Goosneck pinboxes that are good and wont void warranties.
I do a visual check and tug test
Reese Goosebox has been great
I'm not certain but have seen some articles where if you have a pin box and get the gooseneck adapter it changes where the stress goes on the pin box and can possibly cause issues. So maybe change entire box out to gooseneck from what I've seen
Why doesn't anyone ever mention 5th wheel height on how high or low your 5th wheel should be to prevent damage in say like a dip turn? Curious as I would like to know. I've been lucky so far as having it set to the middle but wondering if I should go to the highest setting and how would that effect the geometry of the set up??
I’m 😅
I broke the back window and dinged the cab with my Anderson. Then I switched to a B&W slider.
I don't do the tug test.... because I have a Gen Y now😅. I did when I had my BW companion, though. Live my Gen Y I also loved my BW. I love having my bed back more though.
My friend just bought a Gen-Y Hitch Gooseneck Trailer Hitch for his Gen-Y pin box. The ball sits back a bit for short beds. So far, so good.
I just put a Gen Y gooseneck on my rv. I'm really looking forward to having my bed back next season!
I was a little confused about putting the b&w back into towing position. It locks when the slide is deployed, so you have to unlock it when returning to towing position.
I have the B&W. To move it to the rear maneuvering position, lift the lever and drive forward. You'll hear the lever lock in place. To move back to the driving position, lift (unlock) the lever and back up until the lever drops back to the locked position again. I really like this hitch.
I don't recommend converting a fifth wheel hitch to a gooseneck, especially with 40' and longer newer trailers. There's too many frame flex problems these days. A gooseneck setup puts more stress on the frame.
I loved my Husky hitches, My B&W companion hitch sucks so many people talk so highly about these hitches, I'm not impressed at all.
Andersen is the answer! No moving parts and can be set for either shorted or long bed towing. Also you get the secure connection of a gooseneck and no chucking like 5th wheel hitches especially sliders.
If the connection is so secure, why do you then need safety chains?
@@johnmiller6197 I don't have safety chains on mine. Also the whole safety chains with goosenecks is federal law. Just like everything else government begin Hypocrites.. jaws in 5th wheel can fail just as much as gooseneck can.
Only moving part is that weak piece of junk Folding up under Emergency Situations.
Check out All the videos and pictures on those things Failing 😂
@@jamesglenn520 show me all these failures? Cause there is one and it does exactly what it's supposed to do absorb the energy.
@@rapierce99 Obsorb what energy?
Just Google it or look here on RUclips.
People have had them bend crack and completely fold up.
The piece that hooks to the kingpin comes loose and swings sideways and makes your trailer track t one side.
It's crazy that those things are still legal to use on the highway.
Some expert...
He IS MISTAKEN about that Patriot slider going back simply by "backing up afterwards"...
It 'locks in' both ways = release the lever to move either direction...
I unhooked in the rain, got in a hurry and forgot to drop the tailgate. 🤦🏻♂️
Good video but you are calling those RV's fifth will, i always called them fifth wheels, am i saying it wrong ?
I believe the so called ‘fifth wheel ‘at least on a double axle trailer is the hitch , 1 hitch = 1 wheel .. not sure why on a triple axle trailer the hitch is not referred as the 7th wheel ?
Fifths wheel originated from the trucking industry. Originally truck tractors were 2 axles with 4 wheels. The hitch is round like a wheel, hence fifth wheel. Still called that today regardless of the number of axles and wheels
The reason why gooseneck trailers require safety chains is that the trucking industry special interests lobbied the DOT to not require safety chains for kingpin (5th wheel) hitches. The "gooseneck" industry just didn't have the money backing (ie: they are farmers, ranchers, contractors) to do the same. In general, goosenecks are safer and stronger.
When I pull lever an pin it , I know I don't need to pull test it. I got VISUAL. 😂😂😂
So if you pull a toy hauler that has heavy toys in the garage, then how in the hell are you supposed to equal out the weight so that you are adding the same amount of weight or more is on the front of the camper? That doesn't even make sense. Sure, when it comes to other 5th wheels, you want to make sure that you are not overloading the rear of the camper, but that is rarely a problem with a toy hauler, because they are designed to be so front heavy to begin with. But when you load your toys, it makes sense that it would decrease your hitch weight, more or less... I think that, generally speaking, you will decrease the hitch weight by approximately 100 lbs for every 1000 lbs you load in the garage, though it really all depends on where the axles are located on the camper, and your millage may vary accordingly. But when it comes to most toy haulers, you can pretty much load everything in the garage, and the front end will still be the heaviest part of the camper. Just make sure that your hitch weigh on any 5th wheel caper whether or not it is a toy hauler is at least 15% of the trailers entire weight, and that is all you really need to worry about. But when it comes to most toy haulers, good luck putting enough weight in the garage to reduce the hitch weight so that the front end is less that 15% of the total weight of the trailer without overloading the tires and axles.
Get a nice tent instead of a ridiculous double wide
Ya. You may as well stay home and watch cable tv 😂😂
@@georgea6403 lot cheaper
👍🇺🇲
The sliding hitches should never be a consideration, or available on the market. They leave too much room for human error (and as we all know, none of us has ever made any mistakes) Just do it right and buy the truck that will do the job the right way.
And there needs to be a towing endorsement like a motorcycle. It’s not 100% but it will help keep the stupids away that shouldn’t be towing anyway. Nothing wrong with a sliding hitch for short beds. Some trucks can’t have a long bed…
@@sjfk1306Why do you say some cannot have longbeds?
@@jamesglenn520 long beds aren’t an option on mega cab rams from the factory.
@@sjfk1306 There are multiple companies that convert them. They are very common in the western states.
@@jamesglenn520 no s**t. I own one but many don’t wanna mess around with that.