First time viewing your channel. As a fellow film photographer, I really appreciated the relaxed manner of photography of this video. This is what large format film photography is all about, deliberate, considered and requiring photographic knowledge and a good degree of pre-visualisation. What a magical place, a little too far for me from Manchester, and what a brilliant camera. Sadly, I have the cheap British copy of your Linhof, the MPP MKVII and a Wista Field DX. I wish that more channels like yours existed so that the new generation of mobile phone photographers realised what photography is all about. Look forward to seeing more from you.
What a nice youtube find for me, such a contrast from my Autodesk Maya tutorials!!!! Totally agree about those rock formations. Might get up to St Abbs and try and emulate your relaxed approach to the task at hand. Thank you for that!
Great relaxing video. One point maybe to mention is why you turn the darkside over. To a new person starting out 4x5 can look pretty scary. Reminds me of a beach I was at in Wales but the large rocks were carved out by the waves. I'd taken a bronica s2a out for it's first time and the shots came out perfect.
Film and I have never gotten along and I prefer digital cameras by far. But one day I attended a workshop and got to use an Arca Swiss 4x5. I can't afford anything like this but after watching you maybe I should give film another try.
I understand doing videos in parts but would be nice to see the pics you took in this video. Show the pics and then sell us on part 2 regarding the developing process.
Excellent and calm video which tramsports well what LF photography is all about. David I noticed That you are using current lensboards on the Technika III. What did you do to make them work? Keep up the great content
1. Be more careful (at 2:30) when removing the lens from the camera. You hit the rear group of your lens very hard against the frame of the standard. 2. Your cable release is long enough; do not stretch it over the bellows to the back of the camera. A cable release must always have been bent in a wide U-bend. 3. Use a magnifying (45 degrees) hood over you ground glass and it will look brighter. 4. Never use a viewing loupe with a translucent base.
Yeah I figured that out about the cables when testing an extremely short cable release and trying to get as much out of it as possible. If you have it straight you can pull or push the camera around.
I advised to mount a NEUTRAL filter; not a ND filter. ND filters have a density. B&W (Schneider), Helioplan, Zeiss and Hoya have made neutral filters. You might as well mount an UV-filter to protect the front element of your lens. Even a light yellow, a haze /pink/CR 1,5 filter can be used as long as you shoot B&W. I have seen hundreds of "non filtered" LF lenses with scratches. Each lens needs a protecting filter and two caps.
Sshooting done the v important is developing .what chemical bath or process will bring best results and then the grand finala will be how u paint with light this print .l want to see how u treat the high lightd with contrasting crecives .Imade paintings out of photo prints ,,try it .Then let me now .Graphic Designer Creative Photographer. Thank u await resuts,CHEERS,its hard work!
Thank you Steve, These days my magnification calculations are pretty much intuitive. The formula that I learnt many years ago was:- image over object size plus one equals the increased exposure factor required
Dear David, thanks for the exciting video! If we look closely at 5:34 diagonally we can see a nude figure. In the center of the frame at the bottom, we can also even distinguish the navel ... I do not think that you ended up in this place by accident. I wish you good health, creative success and good luck! Best regards from St. Petersburg.
Get yourself a Weston Master with an INVERCONE and go for INCIDENT light reading. Never use a straight cable release to avoid moving your camera. Not the safest way to place your tripod, fix a bag with pebbles halfway the longest leg. Screw in a neutral filter for protecting your lenses. Do not forget sunshade or a compendium Why just two 4 x 5 cassettes; there might be more to photograph. Have a notebook to write down date, weather, exposer and film type.
Why would you go from spot metering to incident light reading? In studio setup - sure. But outdoor I would always go for a spotmeter. Wouldn´t a UV filter make more since than ND? Seriously the image on the ground glass is dark enough already. I use shades and you have to be really careful not to get them into your pictures. But most LF photographers wont. And in this setup in the picture? What for? Very good suggestion on the tripod though.
I did not write a ND-filter; I wrote a neutral filter. In the studio a spot meter in front of the screen of my large format camera is very comfortable. @@lichtmaler
Central Canmera Co in mumbai or BOMBAY DADABOOUY NAROJ ROAD NWAR VT serviced Linhof 😊and l mr. D'silva was best at servicing 0Linhof,Lieca and other precision optical scientific equipment.l dont know if after ths expert any one has taken his place as the navy etc have need forr service.Are u Aw
Your spotmeter is too wide for metering the narrow black line. Any camera with an invercone wil do better; if the invercone "looks" in the direction of the camera. Or do a metering on a Kodak neutral grey cart
First time viewing your channel. As a fellow film photographer, I really appreciated the relaxed manner of photography of this video. This is what large format film photography is all about, deliberate, considered and requiring photographic knowledge and a good degree of pre-visualisation. What a magical place, a little too far for me from Manchester, and what a brilliant camera. Sadly, I have the cheap British copy of your Linhof, the MPP MKVII and a Wista Field DX. I wish that more channels like yours existed so that the new generation of mobile phone photographers realised what photography is all about. Look forward to seeing more from you.
Well said Sir...my sentiments exactly !
Nothing sad about the MPP!
Now, this is a real photographer. Inspiring!
What a nice youtube find for me, such a contrast from my Autodesk Maya tutorials!!!! Totally agree about those rock formations. Might get up to St Abbs and try and emulate your relaxed approach to the task at hand. Thank you for that!
Great relaxing video. One point maybe to mention is why you turn the darkside over. To a new person starting out 4x5 can look pretty scary. Reminds me of a beach I was at in Wales but the large rocks were carved out by the waves. I'd taken a bronica s2a out for it's first time and the shots came out perfect.
Magnificent,the best and most beautiful camera of the world!!!!
Hi nice video. Fantastic place. 😀
Thanks for visiting
Nice one David. Very informative. And my compliments too, to the one doing the video work. Cheers. ♡
Thanks Kevin
Nice, relaxed video; the location is beautiful and the camera outstanding.
Lovely video Sir...was worried for the Sironar but I suppose the laws of physics overrule any worries !! On to part two now...
Thanks for sharing with us.
Film and I have never gotten along and I prefer digital cameras by far. But one day I attended a workshop and got to use an Arca Swiss 4x5. I can't afford anything like this but after watching you maybe I should give film another try.
I understand doing videos in parts but would be nice to see the pics you took in this video. Show the pics and then sell us on part 2 regarding the developing process.
Really enjoying these David
Thank you
Excellent and calm video which tramsports well what LF photography is all about. David I noticed That you are using current lensboards on the Technika III. What did you do to make them work? Keep up the great content
Interesting video thanks. [Would you recommend a fresnel David? - I just got a Technika and the ground glass is pretty dim. Thanks. ]
Hi, David, did modern fidelity elite holders fits to linhof technika III?
Very good video
Subscribed! :)
Yay! Thank you!
1. Be more careful (at 2:30) when removing the lens from the camera.
You hit the rear group of your lens very hard against the frame of the standard.
2. Your cable release is long enough; do not stretch it over the bellows to the back of the camera.
A cable release must always have been bent in a wide U-bend.
3. Use a magnifying (45 degrees) hood over you ground glass and it will look brighter.
4. Never use a viewing loupe with a translucent base.
Yeah I figured that out about the cables when testing an extremely short cable release and trying to get as much out of it as possible. If you have it straight you can pull or push the camera around.
What kind of insanely bright ground glass do you have? Is it a fresnel?
Yes its fresnel with a 5.6 aperture-amazingly bright
thanks for watching
I advised to mount a NEUTRAL filter; not a ND filter.
ND filters have a density.
B&W (Schneider), Helioplan, Zeiss and Hoya have made neutral filters.
You might as well mount an UV-filter to protect the front element of your lens.
Even a light yellow, a haze /pink/CR 1,5 filter can be used as long as you shoot B&W.
I have seen hundreds of "non filtered" LF lenses with scratches.
Each lens needs a protecting filter and two caps.
Sshooting done the v important is developing .what chemical bath or process will bring best results and then the grand finala will be how u paint with light this print .l want to see how u treat the high lightd with contrasting crecives .Imade paintings out of photo prints ,,try it .Then let me now .Graphic Designer Creative Photographer. Thank u await resuts,CHEERS,its hard work!
So hard work for one shot 😀😂
Hi David, I loved this video. What is that light meter you're using?
Thanks Lauren
I use a Pentax spotmeter V, brilliant piece of kit
I would like to have seen how you accounted for bellows extension in your exposure. Enjoyed the video.
Thank you Steve,
These days my magnification calculations are pretty much intuitive. The formula that I learnt many years ago was:- image over object size plus one equals the increased exposure factor required
Dear David, thanks for the exciting video! If we look closely at 5:34 diagonally we can see a nude figure. In the center of the frame at the bottom, we can also even distinguish the navel ... I do not think that you ended up in this place by accident. I wish you good health, creative success and good luck! Best regards from St. Petersburg.
Thank you for the interesting observation, Edward Weston would be proud of me!
Get yourself a Weston Master with an INVERCONE and go for INCIDENT light reading.
Never use a straight cable release to avoid moving your camera.
Not the safest way to place your tripod, fix a bag with pebbles halfway the longest leg.
Screw in a neutral filter for protecting your lenses.
Do not forget sunshade or a compendium
Why just two 4 x 5 cassettes; there might be more to photograph.
Have a notebook to write down date, weather, exposer and film type.
Why would you go from spot metering to incident light reading? In studio setup - sure. But outdoor I would always go for a spotmeter.
Wouldn´t a UV filter make more since than ND? Seriously the image on the ground glass is dark enough already. I use shades and you have to be really careful not to get them into your pictures. But most LF photographers wont. And in this setup in the picture? What for?
Very good suggestion on the tripod though.
I did not write a ND-filter; I wrote a neutral filter.
In the studio a spot meter in front of the screen
of my large format camera is very comfortable.
@@lichtmaler
Central Canmera Co in mumbai or BOMBAY DADABOOUY NAROJ ROAD NWAR VT serviced Linhof 😊and l mr. D'silva was best at servicing 0Linhof,Lieca and other precision optical scientific equipment.l dont know if after ths expert any one has taken his place as the navy etc have need forr service.Are u Aw
are?
Your spotmeter is too wide for metering the narrow black line.
Any camera with an invercone wil do better; if the invercone
"looks" in the direction of the camera.
Or do a metering on a Kodak neutral grey cart
The Linhof is wrong balanced !
You had better use the other 3/8 Ww hole in the coverplate.