Chris I’m gonna continue thanking you for taking so much time to document this process. this series will be incredibly helpful to so many people , myself included!
Thank you, Johnathan. Learning from others, especially with the sometimes sketchy documentation these classic cars have, is very useful and time-saving. I'm happy to be able play a small part.
Reverse lights! So fancy! Listed as an "option" on the TR4 diagram. The leather belt piece is super cool! Little details like that really make a difference on the finished product. Keep up the good work!
Thanks! I was very surprised that that belt was still there. I think there's a similar piece on the TR4, but I'm not sure if it serves the same function. I found it in the TRF catalog. I've found that lots of parts like that were shared between the TR4 and the early Spitfires. Sometime is a part is not listed for the Spitfire, it is for the TR4 and is the same part. Rimmer's catalog is like that a lot.
Hi Chris, great video. I've recently found that, with regard to the B pillar caps, you can polish aluminium up to a mirror finish (or smooth matt finish) using progressively finer grades of sand paper and WD40 e.g. 200, 400, 800,1600, 3200 then polish. I've just polished the trim on my father-in-Law's vintage truck and it looks great. It will takes some time, but that's what I intend to do with my B pillar caps.
Did the same with heat shrink on all of my wiring harness metal tab hold-downs. You seriously leap-frogged me with your progress. Still at the bodywork/sanding stage. Keep it up!
Hi, Chris. Long time, no talk. Glad to hear that you're still with it! I'm sorry to say that I haven't visited the blog in a while, but it looks like you've got a few posts there I haven't read. Time to get caught up!
Chris Fisher Not much to read. Just some bodywork stuff. Hoping to get to paint by the end of Oct. My OCD is getting the best of me every time I look over my bonnet metalwork :)
Yeah, I kind of stopped after a while. When I got to the point that the decision was more filler or not, I conceded that I had reached the limits of my expertise. I'm even considering leaving the paint as it is, even with the pretty obvious flaws. Jury is still out on that one, but I'm not sure that I can just leave it. That'll be a mental fight.
Chris great progress. On my TR4A I believe that the original plastic sleeve over the loom securing tags was a fair bit longer than the metal tag itself. This meant that the excess could be doubled back on itself, or tucked under the loom, which helps keep everything in place. I would assume that the Spitfire might have been similar, but not sure if it would work the same with heat-shrink tube compared with the thicker and stiffer plastic, but it might be worth a look.
Hmm. I didn't find that on the Spitfire, but that may be a good idea anyway. The original stuff was not shrink tubing and was a bit heavier, so maybe doubling it back would be helpful. Thanks!
lol, thanks. I found in other research that it appears to have been an option on the Mk2s, but I think the light was bolted on unlike "new" lights that are on the Mk3.
Chris I’m gonna continue thanking you for taking so much time to document this process. this series will be incredibly helpful to so many people , myself included!
Thank you, Johnathan. Learning from others, especially with the sometimes sketchy documentation these classic cars have, is very useful and time-saving. I'm happy to be able play a small part.
I loved the screwdriver tip to avoid scratching the paint, clever!
Thanks. It worked "ok", not great. I scratched up the red, but didn't go through the epoxy (but we both know how strong that stuff is).
Reverse lights! So fancy! Listed as an "option" on the TR4 diagram.
The leather belt piece is super cool! Little details like that really make a difference on the finished product. Keep up the good work!
Thanks! I was very surprised that that belt was still there. I think there's a similar piece on the TR4, but I'm not sure if it serves the same function. I found it in the TRF catalog. I've found that lots of parts like that were shared between the TR4 and the early Spitfires. Sometime is a part is not listed for the Spitfire, it is for the TR4 and is the same part. Rimmer's catalog is like that a lot.
Hi Chris, great video. I've recently found that, with regard to the B pillar caps, you can polish aluminium up to a mirror finish (or smooth matt finish) using progressively finer grades of sand paper and WD40 e.g. 200, 400, 800,1600, 3200 then polish. I've just polished the trim on my father-in-Law's vintage truck and it looks great. It will takes some time, but that's what I intend to do with my B pillar caps.
That works! Thanks for the tip, Tony, I'll give it a try. I have two sets, so I can take my chances a bit.
Did the same with heat shrink on all of my wiring harness metal tab hold-downs. You seriously leap-frogged me with your progress. Still at the bodywork/sanding stage. Keep it up!
Hi, Chris. Long time, no talk. Glad to hear that you're still with it! I'm sorry to say that I haven't visited the blog in a while, but it looks like you've got a few posts there I haven't read. Time to get caught up!
Chris Fisher Not much to read. Just some bodywork stuff. Hoping to get to paint by the end of Oct. My OCD is getting the best of me every time I look over my bonnet metalwork :)
Yeah, I kind of stopped after a while. When I got to the point that the decision was more filler or not, I conceded that I had reached the limits of my expertise. I'm even considering leaving the paint as it is, even with the pretty obvious flaws. Jury is still out on that one, but I'm not sure that I can just leave it. That'll be a mental fight.
Chris great progress.
On my TR4A I believe that the original plastic sleeve over the loom securing tags was a fair bit longer than the metal tag itself. This meant that the excess could be doubled back on itself, or tucked under the loom, which helps keep everything in place. I would assume that the Spitfire might have been similar, but not sure if it would work the same with heat-shrink tube compared with the thicker and stiffer plastic, but it might be worth a look.
Hmm. I didn't find that on the Spitfire, but that may be a good idea anyway. The original stuff was not shrink tubing and was a bit heavier, so maybe doubling it back would be helpful. Thanks!
Mistakes in the workshop schematic. That is just cruel. Great video. Thanks.
I had forewarning, so at least I was prepared!
I expected the lights to go out when you plugged in that voltage regulator box!
Lol, can't be too predictable with my humor! Maybe I'll come up with something else 🤔
True 'dat. Lucas does get a bad rap that's for sure. That mechanical regulator looks really interesting inside, I've never messed with one.
I'll have to do a video on the regulator when I get there. Best way to learn how it works it to screw it all up in front of you folks!
Just found a schematic on line for a mk3 showing green and brown is for reversing lamps ! Good guess
lol, thanks. I found in other research that it appears to have been an option on the Mk2s, but I think the light was bolted on unlike "new" lights that are on the Mk3.