Great video! I've just replaced the water pump on my MGF and it was very fiddly - glad to hear the cambelt is fiddly even with the engine out of the car! I'm sure I'll watch this video again as a reference for where everything in the engine goes! It's good to see one out of the car...
Ive had 5 BRMs and an MGF and mg ZR, have had a good few hgf jobs however never heard of success without a skim/ polish... hope you have no issues.. Im looking for someone to install a K series turbo engine in my BRM...
Always replace timing pulleys bolts, especially on early vvcs and put some thradlocker on them. Rear timing belt is easier to do after front one is done. You just need to rotate engine 360 degrees so timing marks are pointing outwards and then rotate rear inlet pulley so it marks outwards as the rest. Why its easier? Because its not on the top of the lobe in that position.
Interestingly I just did mine and used this tip. Went to add some marks to the rear pulleys to aid lining up and lo and behold marks already there from the last time the belt was done (by Mike S) lol! Rear belt went on and lined up first time amazingly. Had a mare with the front belt, once on can just get the bolt in for the tensioner position! It’s at full travel when tensioned.
Yes, though modern elastomer gaskets are improved. The known “go to” head gasket is the Multi Layer Steel one but what many non-MG Rover people don’t realise is that these need very specific bore liner heights. If the liners have dropped in use then the MLS gasket will fail quickly whereas the elastomer one is more forgiving. He explains it in the video.
@Jack T the Curborough Sprinter After i commented i did some research, and found out exactly what you wrote in your comment. Im quite familiar with the K series, we owned a 400 since i was a kid and now its in my possession. When we did the headgasket the mechanics recommend the n series gasket as its the "improved" one. We put it on not knowing what i know now about the liner heights, but its still going strong to this day so i guess they were all equal heights.
@@The_Markness you might be ok - I think the N series upgrade includes a tougher oil rail at the bottom of the engine and higher tensile bolts. If the liners are in spec it’s supposed to be the top notch fix for K Series HGF I think. 👍
The current elastomer gasket from payen is far superior to the original factory item. Add to that the replacement of the plastic locating dowels with the metal ones the payen gasket comes with also improves reliability. You can only use the mls gaskets when the cylinder heights are 2 or 3 thou above the block and all the same, otherwise the elastomer gasket is the best option.
Lol found it! Must’ve been half asleep earlier.
Great video! I've just replaced the water pump on my MGF and it was very fiddly - glad to hear the cambelt is fiddly even with the engine out of the car! I'm sure I'll watch this video again as a reference for where everything in the engine goes! It's good to see one out of the car...
i'm learning so much watching these vids. thanks a million!
The liners only need to be between 003 to 005 thousanths on an inch above the block surface not 30 thou to be safe for fitting the mls gasket.
Knew there was a 3 in there somewhere 🤣
Ive had 5 BRMs and an MGF and mg ZR, have had a good few hgf jobs however never heard of success without a skim/ polish... hope you have no issues.. Im looking for someone to install a K series turbo engine in my BRM...
Always replace timing pulleys bolts, especially on early vvcs and put some thradlocker on them.
Rear timing belt is easier to do after front one is done. You just need to rotate engine 360 degrees so timing marks are pointing outwards and then rotate rear inlet pulley so it marks outwards as the rest. Why its easier? Because its not on the top of the lobe in that position.
Interestingly I just did mine and used this tip. Went to add some marks to the rear pulleys to aid lining up and lo and behold marks already there from the last time the belt was done (by Mike S) lol! Rear belt went on and lined up first time amazingly. Had a mare with the front belt, once on can just get the bolt in for the tensioner position! It’s at full travel when tensioned.
Isnt the elastomer gasket the one that comes factory on the K and is failing quite often?
Exactly what I was thinking. Why would you ever want to use this type of gasket ever again? Good luck with this one 😐
Yes, though modern elastomer gaskets are improved. The known “go to” head gasket is the Multi Layer Steel one but what many non-MG Rover people don’t realise is that these need very specific bore liner heights. If the liners have dropped in use then the MLS gasket will fail quickly whereas the elastomer one is more forgiving. He explains it in the video.
@Jack T the Curborough Sprinter After i commented i did some research, and found out exactly what you wrote in your comment. Im quite familiar with the K series, we owned a 400 since i was a kid and now its in my possession. When we did the headgasket the mechanics recommend the n series gasket as its the "improved" one. We put it on not knowing what i know now about the liner heights, but its still going strong to this day so i guess they were all equal heights.
@@The_Markness you might be ok - I think the N series upgrade includes a tougher oil rail at the bottom of the engine and higher tensile bolts. If the liners are in spec it’s supposed to be the top notch fix for K Series HGF I think. 👍
The current elastomer gasket from payen is far superior to the original factory item. Add to that the replacement of the plastic locating dowels with the metal ones the payen gasket comes with also improves reliability. You can only use the mls gaskets when the cylinder heights are 2 or 3 thou above the block and all the same, otherwise the elastomer gasket is the best option.
How to install timeing MG 550