I’m in the process of purchasing a Class C. And now that I’ve been watching you I feel much more confident with purchasing a used one. You do an excellent job explaining everything and I’m happy to be one of your subscribers.
Great job, your work highlights the main reason for the majority of troubles in RV world. The fact that most manufacturers and techs don't have the right amount of knowledge, willingness to gain it and/or don't fully invest what they do have. The hinge of all of this is that you care, you def care and retain an honest concern for the client. The who you do the job for is more important than what you do the job for. Thank you for posting solid material.
Most informative and pleasant rv repair video I've seen in a while! I have a 1994 Vectra, and it's at least disheartening that Winnebago kept producing this dangerous roof system for over a decade 😭
Nice job on the silicone with the masking tape. I'll be doing that this year. Just purchased an 07 National Dolphin that has the same roof construction as the Winnebago. Thanks for taking the time to make the video.
Love your videos, my friend. Towards the end you said "Hope you enjoyed it, hope you learned something." A big YES on both counts. We just bought an '08 Monaco Monarch 30sfs, and I'm about to work on refreshing the radius seals on both sides of the crowned fiberglass roof. Thank you VERY much for not only showing the best technique, but for showing a clear picture of the product you prefer to use.
Thanks for the tutorial. I have owned a 2006 Journey since 2015. No big issues but like to stay ahead by doing preventive mx. Noticed a small leak in cavinet above and in front of copilot's seat while driving in heavy rains in NW Wa state. Last roof inspection was six months ago, looked good according to the tech. Now I plan on doing the roof sealant r&r this spring in slightly warmer and drier wx. Takes some time but you definitely show how to do it properly. Thanks again!
Love you videos. Very informative. I wish I would have had this information prior to last August when a micro burst sucked the entire roof off of my 97 Brave. Had to total the rig as the $17,000 cost of repair was not an option. Keep the videos coming. Thanks Wayne. in Surprise, Az.
Very informative and professional video with a bit humour mixed in. Great job from a mechanic that has performed that work. You covered all the bases. Thanks. I also like to bring a 5 gallon bucket of obscenities. just in case!
Thank you very much. It's great to get feedback from other techs, as Winnebago and their dealers don't really teach any of this to anyone...and they know it's an issue. Also, I get to edit out all my cursing!
I want to say thank you so much for the video on roof radius. I believe we have the same issue & more on our 2008 Itasca Cambria. I had a stroke ..so we put the rig in outside storage in So.California exposed to the elements and sun. As I was recovering we were preoccupied and didn't get to check on the rig until about 10 months later. We noticed that there was some separation of caulking along the (drip rail/gutters) and there were a couple of puckers/indentations on the radius. ( I'd like to sent photos but don't know how ). As I wasn't capable , my poor wife (we are old farts 😄) got up on the roof and squeezed a tube or more of exterior window caulking all along the rails on both sides.... it's ugly and not the right sealant to use but we at least felt we could stop any further leaking until it can be properly done. May I ask you what would be causing the puckers ? Thank you again....cheers 🍺 😊.
Very informative video. Wish I could have watched it prior to repairing my own coach which is almost identical is this one. mine being a 2005 Itasca Journey. My radius was also cut entirely too short and I experienced a micro wind blast which blew mine open causing a small tear in the fiberglass. Unwilling to replace the roof I repaired the crack on both sides and did the same sealing your video showed. The problem with this design in my opinion is the amount of flexing going on between the roof and the side makes it impossible for the sealant to remain attached to the gutter.
I'm glad you caught it before driving down the road. Filon can be repaired like fiberglass, but if large chunks are missing, it is not very likely. I agree that this roof design should be retired. Thanks!
a few years ago I was looking for a tiny self contained camper looked everywhere. I even stopped by the local winnebago dealer ROY ROBEMALL. THEY'RE TINIEST WAS 17 FEET I looked at it. when I finished I asked if the $17500 price included a trailer to haul the parts that fall off home. shiny junk.
Great tutorial, James! Thank you! I’ve watched two of your walk-throughs on the failures of the Winnebago roofs. We have a 2014 Winnebago Forza, I have areas where the adhesive is failing on the skin on the roof. I’m getting that bubbling type of action from that failure. Do you suppose the roof skin needs to be replaced?
I wonder if an amazon store with the products you use would be good. You referenced a scraper, adhesive remover, at least one type of sealant in this video. All good stuff for a DIY to have.
I have a very high level of anxiety in my life, and I am concerned about the logistics and management of such an affiliate system would add to my stress. I have given it some thought and appreciate the feedback!
After watching your videos, I went and bought a caulk gun battery operated that has made it a lot easier. My problem with Geo cell is the plastic tip comes up to the tube with a metal top. When I push down, it pushes it into the tube. using Dow 995 it's the same structural strength sealant but the tube is all plastic so I don't worry about the tip on the tube going up in the cartridge. Does this not happen to you with Geos cell?
I’ve got a 2005 Itasca Meridian…I assume the 1.5” #8 screw would work in the front cap as well? I’m just worried about it coming through the inside of the coach. No chance of that? Thanks for all your insight.
Need advice, please. 2002 Journey WPK32T, the radius has not pulled out of the radius rail, yet the filon is loose from the radius edge going the entire length of the RV, both sides. It now has an air gap (I can push and see it go down and up) from the radius plus one foot parallel to the edge, from end to end. Should I cut the filon right at the end caps inward a foot so I can lift the filon and reseal it with contact cement? After reattaching the filon to the plywood and radius, I would do the geocel to the tuck point. The filon itself is in one piece and in good condition. Please let me know if I am on the right track. Taking the end caps off might be overkill since the lap sealant will reseal the edge where the end cap overlaps the roof filon.
Going to look at 04 Winnebago VECTRA 40 KD tomorrow. The unit is super clean and has been maintained. Besides your video what else should I look for? Is the roof fiberglass? Thanks
2004 Winnebago adventurer, could I just put some screws in the roof radius above the gutter to ensure wind would not rip it off? Then reseal between radius and gutter like normal.
Thanks for your help! After removing the eternabond(big project) and cleaning off the edge (another big project), the cap is tucked in and sealant is in the groove. You mention to let it cure for a while, how long is the preferred cure time frame? Thanks for your videos and your expert advice!!!!
I feel best with a couple days of cure time, but I have had customers drive out of state the next day with no problem. Sorry you had to clean off the Eternabond, many people swear that all that is needed is a hair dryer, but I've yet to find a clean or easy method.
AZ Expert I spoke with you about a month ago and was very enthused by your suggestions. A local RV shop that I frequent for repairs had given me a quote to fix my roof which I was considering. It was very high. You told me I could do it, told me how and your videos gave me what I needed to view step by step. I can’t thank you enough! I will be scanning through your videos to see what other gems you have. Do You have some short takes on yearly maintenance? I would be very interested in your views there. The roof radius seal is on my list to check now and will be for all RV’s I think about buying in the future. Thanks again! Keep making those videos please!
OK James. I get that, but did you sand it, prime it, paint and clear coat? Or just sand and paint? My radius is aluminum and Numar uses Sherman Williams paint and they want 300 bucks for a quart of paint. I wander if I can use a single stage paint from another auto paint store? Doesn't look like you clearcoated that. Sorry to keep bothering you. It does look great. Thanks
I appreciate the work you do... you should have more subscribers for sure. Going to feature you on my channel for your information and skill. Keep up the good work!!
I really appreciate that. I'm terribe at self promotion. It means a lot to me that you would help a stranger out. I've really enjoyed following your builds. Thanks!
We have a 2004 Winnebago Horizon Itasca and we've resealed front cap right over drivers side window twice now and used pop rivets. When we use our self leveling jack's the front cap breaks loose only above drivers side window and I can see inside the front cap. Any thoughts? Great videos by the way. Very helpful and informative. Thanks
With Winnebago's construction with a steel enclosed driver compartment secured to the frame, I doubt the frame is the issue. I'd guess the majority of the metal mounts holding the cap to the frame might be broken loose and allowing the cap to flex oddly.
I have watched this video a few times. Thanks as always for posting these great videos. I have a 2005 Itasca Meridian, and am going to tackle this same project myself soon. Planning to use Manus Bond 75 clear. I used Proflex on another RV 3-4 years ago, and didn’t feel like it held up well at all over time. Do you have any suggestions on how to “find metal” when drilling for the front cap screws? Also, am I correct in believing that getting than channel cleaned out thoroughly is both a) crucial, and b) difficult? Thank you.
It's not difficult just tedious. To be sure you should be able to see the frame by taking the cabinets apart on the inside....but that's a lot of work too.
I'm a first time Class A owner and I've learned a whole lot from watching your videos. I've got a 2004 Horizon Itasca which I've had less than one year. My problem is with that darn front roof cap. I've put 3 screws and lots of manus bond where the cap wraps over the cove like in the video. We got back from a camping trip and 2 screws broke off and one screw was twisted at a 45 degrees. On top of the rv the roof cap was half inch forward. Breaking the roof seal. My question is : What could be pulling that roof cap apart with that much force to break off screws? I'm thinking the cab is structurally pulling away from the main body. Something in the frame structure has let loose is what I'm guessing. Thanks
That is a strange one. The screws I and Winnebago put in on the side just keep the fiberglass from relaxing and should not really have any real tension on it. I make sure to over size the hole in the fiberglass so the screw is only grabbing onto the wall underneathe. Really the screws are just permanent clamps for the adhesive. If the entire front cap seam on top is shifting yes you have some serious issue. I would not be surprised if the adhesive to the cap at the windshield frame is disconnected due to rust but there are still a lot of screws holding it down. The only thing I could think is that the screws locking the interlocking sidewall into the roof are sheared allowing the joint to slide forward and aft. It would be difficult to find out without popping the radius out of the track.
So on a roof radius where the roof skin is not tucked in , why not find another extruded aluminum strip that could be sealed under it and screwed on just above the factory gutter? I think that would cure a lot of roof problems
I have a 2009 Vectra 40TD and I was washing the roof and getting ready to inspect it. I noticed a small section about 4 feet long on the drivers side of the radius has come un-tucked. I just came back from a long trip so I must be pretty lucky. I am hoping I will use some flex pro and seal it back. I was encouraged when you said this guy caught his in time with his previous repair. Mine is not cracked or ripped. Just started to come undone in the middle, probably cut slightly short and not tucked in enough. Q#1 Is Flex Pro the way to go, I had heard you say 311 is the only thing that sticks to Winnebago roofs in a different video. And Q#2 should I glue the radios itself down with adhesive they seem to be not glued down for some reason. Help :-) Thank You in Advance. There is minor delamination on the roof above this area. It must have come out while I was driving. Like I said I feel pretty lucky. So Q #3 how should I deal with that area. I think I can reach it but Im worried about damaging the foam.
@@AZExpert I Replaced the broken screws removed the screw heads that fell down in the track and was able to get the entire roof to slide back into(All the way back into the rail. I'm still waiting for the pro-flex that I ordered to arrive. this roof obviously has never been serviced as I still see the original adhesive was painted over the sealant the factory used. It is hard to believe that the pro flex will be able to secure it by itself. I will follow your method of filling the rail to hopefully squeeze some behind the fiberglass roof material. then put a second coat on the top of the rail. then I will give it 2 days cure time. I was freaking out, and am so happy to get this back into the track.
James, what do you like to use on a 2003 Class C Minnie Winnie under the bunk edge molding trim for a sealant or butyl tape or both? If sealant which one? Looks like you had a fun trip east. Harry
Thank you for the awesome videos. Currently resealing radius to channel on 2018 Sunstar. Noticed what looks like dry cracking down the middle of old sealant and a few spots where fiberglass dimpled in from channel. Winnebago callout sheet recommended Stone Mason sealant but can longer get it. I ended up using Nuflex 640. Have you used this sealant before and if so, do you think it’ll do the job. Thanks and keep up the awesome videos.
Perfect! Thank you for your reply. Was thinking 3 year old motorhome what could possibly be wrong with roof seals. Man was I wrong. Thanks to your videos, it woke me up to proper roof visual inspections and maintenance. Thanks again! 👍
HELP!!! Watching this video. What adhesive did you use to hold the radius down before you painted and sealed the radius?????Also, where are you located??
I have a 04 vectra. Have the same problem roof came off . What is the best sealant to use to hold the fiberglass roof radius down. Or should I use something like gorilla glue/ sealant ?
Will Proflex stick to factory sealant? I have a painted radius, the sealant is starting to crack (after 5 years in the Florida sun). Can I just go over it with Proflex or should I remove all the old stuff?
I remove the loose stuff. if you grab pull it out of the track then do that. If it's stuck, then it's still good, you can put a bead over the top if it's just cracking, it will stick to the factory sealant
Our roof radius has hail damage, about 10 spots, do you think that a fiberglass patch would work out with out removing the whole roof, the coach is 3 years old and the roof is in pretty good shape other than the radius being beat up
Paint doesn't get sunburnt. That was a cap that was painted and the time between base and clear coat wasn't proper. If you wait too long the base coat needs sanded and re-prepped for the clear coat to adhere properly.
I am not a chemist and can only convey what I see especially in Arizona. The clear coating most exposed to the sun does tend to flake off. This is more likely do to the quality of the clear, but even Toyota cars have a similar problem of sun baking. These motor homes are base coated and cleared by an army of painters in some of the largest climate controled paint booths and do not sit around very long in between stages as production lines wait for no one. Thanks!
@@AZExpert Have you noticed how wonderful the quality control is on these RV's? I mention it because I do paint for a living. That type of vast peel off comes when the adhesion is compromised. The peeling off process is sped up by exposure to the sun, but would have happened eventually.
@@dmtudder what I notice mostly is that these are made to make it through the first year and not 10 years. They do use good paint...but highest quality paint is very expensive on a class a motorhome and adds no value to any buyer but is a substantial cost which buyers will not pay for. The cheapest clears that I've seen shops put on cars here last 3 years maybe, while high quality clears rarely peel that I have seen no matter the prep. Thanks
Got a question. I am trying to do the correct water leak repair of the Pearson Clearance lamps that you dealt with on this rig. The PO just larded the base of the lens up with caulking which failed. After removing the lens, I noted that there was no gasket/seal on the base to keep water out, and there seems to be no list of seals on the Winnebago site, or Pearson site, that speaks to it. What do you do to seal it up?
There is usually no gasket. Winnebago uses spray/expanding foam behind to seal the clearance lights and caps. If I replace them I'll seal the wire holes and screw holes with 100% silicone and put a bead around the lens top and side but not at the bottom. Thanks!
Sitting here in our new-to-us 05 Vectra that we are currently living in while we're between houses learning the tricks to make sure my roof doesn't fly off. I appreciate this video, thanks for posting it. Is there anything in particular I need to watch for with where the awning is screwed to the roof? Thanks
You are welcome. Truthfully I've never seen an issue with the the rail installation, of course like the rest of the roof it should be inspected annually. Thanks!
AZ Expert Thanks for the reply. I should’ve clarified as on most of the Vectras of that vintage the awning fabric is attached to the roof itself with screws vs the traditional rail on the sidewall due to the slide out under it. Should I pull the screws one by one and apply sealant to them periodically? How about accessing the radius/cove joint under there to reseal it? Thanks
I understand. I've rarely seen an issue with the roof mounted rail. There is a black butyl sealant under the rail that is much more like tar. Obviously, adding sealant over the top wouldn't hurt, but I haven't seen it necessary. The radius seal can still be accessed by opening the awning, but the awning rail does a great job holding the radius and roof down even if it wasn't sealed.
Please educate me: You're using "Proflex RV", it's "geocell", and you think it's urethane. Winnebago calls for "Stone Mason gutter and siding sealant", which supposedly is no longer available in the US (and I can't find it) which "is not a silicone and not a urethane". They now call for Heng's "Nuflex 640", which can be found, but is really expensive. I'd like to hear your views on all that. Thanks.
I am not sure what Proflex is truthfully. It is not silicone and I do not think its urethane either based on its properties once cured. The proflex and Nuflex 640 both use some secret blend and their MSDS sheets show different solvents. Neither is a silicone sealant. I found the Proflex to be very similar to the Winnebago sealant in application and appearance and durability. The application is listed as Proflex's intended uses. I won't second guess Winnebago's engineers, but have found Proflex to have worked well for the past 15 years or so. I will say that the on non-painted roofs(white) Winnebago uses Manus urethane which is the cause of failure for every torn roof I've seen as it turns to powder in the sun. So even on unpainted roofs, I use Proflex. Thanks!
It really is thanks. Much of RV repair seems to be tedious adhesive cleaning..which is likely why I don't like adhesives and roof repair tapes. Thanks!
I’m in the process of purchasing a Class C. And now that I’ve been watching you I feel much more confident with purchasing a used one. You do an excellent job explaining everything and I’m happy to be one of your subscribers.
Glad I could help!
Great job, your work highlights the main reason for the majority of troubles in RV world. The fact that most manufacturers and techs don't have the right amount of knowledge, willingness to gain it and/or don't fully invest what they do have. The hinge of all of this is that you care, you def care and retain an honest concern for the client. The who you do the job for is more important than what you do the job for. Thank you for posting solid material.
That's nice of you to say, Thank you
@@AZExpert Ya, I have to agree. Useful content and presented in a consumable and interesting way.
Most informative and pleasant rv repair video I've seen in a while!
I have a 1994 Vectra, and it's at least disheartening that Winnebago kept producing this dangerous roof system for over a decade 😭
thank you
Nice job on the silicone with the masking tape. I'll be doing that this year. Just purchased an 07 National Dolphin that has the same roof construction as the Winnebago. Thanks for taking the time to make the video.
Good luck!
Love your videos, my friend. Towards the end you said "Hope you enjoyed it, hope you learned something." A big YES on both counts. We just bought an '08 Monaco Monarch 30sfs, and I'm about to work on refreshing the radius seals on both sides of the crowned fiberglass roof. Thank you VERY much for not only showing the best technique, but for showing a clear picture of the product you prefer to use.
you're welcome, Monaco does build their roofs much different though, clear silicone is all you should need
Thanks for the tutorial. I have owned a 2006 Journey since 2015. No big issues but like to stay ahead by doing preventive mx. Noticed a small leak in cavinet above and in front of copilot's seat while driving in heavy rains in NW Wa state. Last roof inspection was six months ago, looked good according to the tech. Now I plan on doing the roof sealant r&r this spring in slightly warmer and drier wx. Takes some time but you definitely show how to do it properly.
Thanks again!
Hey, Thanks for watching! :)
Love you videos. Very informative. I wish I would have had this information prior to last August when a micro burst sucked the entire roof off of my 97 Brave. Had to total the rig as the $17,000 cost of repair was not an option. Keep the videos coming. Thanks
Wayne. in Surprise, Az.
I'm really sorry to hear that. I haven't really seen this as an issue on units built before 1999 or 2000. Thank you for the encouragement!
Great work thank you for share ,has the weather out there lucks like 🔥 burning
Up until this week it was absolutely beautiful, but summer hit us in June. Thanks!
Always learning something new from all your videos!
Thanks for taking time and doing the videos !
From ..galv Texas !
Very informative and professional video with a bit humour mixed in. Great job from a mechanic that has performed that work. You covered all the bases. Thanks. I also like to bring a 5 gallon bucket of obscenities. just in case!
Thank you very much. It's great to get feedback from other techs, as Winnebago and their dealers don't really teach any of this to anyone...and they know it's an issue. Also, I get to edit out all my cursing!
I want to say thank you so much for the video on roof radius. I believe we have the same issue & more on our 2008 Itasca Cambria. I had a stroke ..so we put the rig in outside storage in So.California exposed to the elements and sun. As I was recovering we were preoccupied and didn't get to check on the rig until about 10 months later. We noticed that there was some separation of caulking along the (drip rail/gutters) and there were a couple of puckers/indentations on the radius. ( I'd like to sent photos but don't know how ). As I wasn't capable , my poor wife (we are old farts 😄) got up on the roof and squeezed a tube or more of exterior window caulking all along the rails on both sides.... it's ugly and not the right sealant to use but we at least felt we could stop any further leaking until it can be properly done. May I ask you what would be causing the puckers ? Thank you again....cheers 🍺 😊.
I'm glad you were able to catch it in time
Thank you for this video James. Nice fix. Happy trails!
Thanks for watching!
Very informative video. Wish I could have watched it prior to repairing my own coach which is almost identical is this one. mine being a 2005 Itasca Journey. My radius was also cut entirely too short and I experienced a micro wind blast which blew mine open causing a small tear in the fiberglass. Unwilling to replace the roof I repaired the crack on both sides and did the same sealing your video showed. The problem with this design in my opinion is the amount of flexing going on between the roof and the side makes it impossible for the sealant to remain attached to the gutter.
I'm glad you caught it before driving down the road. Filon can be repaired like fiberglass, but if large chunks are missing, it is not very likely. I agree that this roof design should be retired. Thanks!
a few years ago I was looking for a tiny self contained camper looked everywhere. I even stopped by the local winnebago dealer ROY ROBEMALL.
THEY'RE TINIEST WAS 17 FEET I looked at it.
when I finished I asked if the $17500 price included a trailer to haul the parts that fall off home.
shiny junk.
they are made quickly and to the standard the customer's demand unfortunately.
Brother, you are awesome! Thank you so much for making this video.
Thank you brother !!
Please talk more about the materials you are using and how to get them. Thanks !
I use Proflex from geocel. You should be able to pick it up at any RV dealer or even Amazon. Thanks!
AZ Expert thank you! It’s really interesting to see the under layers of the RV exterior. It necessary to put on a rubber coating on a Winnebago?
Great tutorial, James! Thank you! I’ve watched two of your walk-throughs on the failures of the Winnebago roofs. We have a 2014 Winnebago Forza, I have areas where the adhesive is failing on the skin on the roof. I’m getting that bubbling type of action from that failure. Do you suppose the roof skin needs to be replaced?
I wonder if an amazon store with the products you use would be good. You referenced a scraper, adhesive remover, at least one type of sealant in this video. All good stuff for a DIY to have.
I have a very high level of anxiety in my life, and I am concerned about the logistics and management of such an affiliate system would add to my stress. I have given it some thought and appreciate the feedback!
@@AZExpert Take care of yourself. Your "anxiety" may be what makes you a very special person.
Great information, thank you. Can you explain exactly how you removed the old sealant? Razor knife or oscillating tool? Thank you
After watching your videos, I went and bought a caulk gun battery operated that has made it a lot easier. My problem with Geo cell is the plastic tip comes up to the tube with a metal top. When I push down, it pushes it into the tube. using Dow 995 it's the same structural strength sealant but the tube is all plastic so I don't worry about the tip on the tube going up in the cartridge. Does this not happen to you with Geos cell?
We have a Boston too !!
I’ve got a 2005 Itasca Meridian…I assume the 1.5” #8 screw would work in the front cap as well? I’m just worried about it coming through the inside of the coach. No chance of that? Thanks for all your insight.
Need advice, please. 2002 Journey WPK32T, the radius has not pulled out of the radius rail, yet the filon is loose from the radius edge going the entire length of the RV, both sides. It now has an air gap (I can push and see it go down and up) from the radius plus one foot parallel to the edge, from end to end. Should I cut the filon right at the end caps inward a foot so I can lift the filon and reseal it with contact cement? After reattaching the filon to the plywood and radius, I would do the geocel to the tuck point. The filon itself is in one piece and in good condition. Please let me know if I am on the right track. Taking the end caps off might be overkill since the lap sealant will reseal the edge where the end cap overlaps the roof filon.
Going to look at 04 Winnebago VECTRA 40 KD tomorrow. The unit is super clean and has been maintained. Besides your video what else should I look for? Is the roof fiberglass? Thanks
2004 Winnebago adventurer, could I just put some screws in the roof radius above the gutter to ensure wind would not rip it off? Then reseal between radius and gutter like normal.
Would securing the roof radius with a screw be a bad idea?
I have a similar awning on my Winnebago Vista… how would you go about resealing the radius tuck since the awning covers it?
Thanks for your help! After removing the eternabond(big project) and cleaning off the edge (another big project), the cap is tucked in and sealant is in the groove. You mention to let it cure for a while, how long is the preferred cure time frame? Thanks for your videos and your expert advice!!!!
I feel best with a couple days of cure time, but I have had customers drive out of state the next day with no problem. Sorry you had to clean off the Eternabond, many people swear that all that is needed is a hair dryer, but I've yet to find a clean or easy method.
AZ Expert I spoke with you about a month ago and was very enthused by your suggestions. A local RV shop that I frequent for repairs had given me a quote to fix my roof which I was considering. It was very high. You told me I could do it, told me how and your videos gave me what I needed to view step by step. I can’t thank you enough! I will be scanning through your videos to see what other gems you have. Do You have some short takes on yearly maintenance? I would be very interested in your views there. The roof radius seal is on my list to check now and will be for all RV’s I think about buying in the future. Thanks again! Keep making those videos please!
How many tubes of pro flex do you recommend getting for doing both sides on 2007 sun cruiser 38j?
Love you videos keep it up. what do you use to seal the sides of the Roof Radius?
Thank you so much I'm happy to hear you are enjoying the videos. I use Proflex from Geocel
Wish I could see how you painted the radius. I have to paint mine this spring on my 08 Newmar. Hard to find youtube videos of that type of paint job.
It's just on a scaffolding otherwise the same
OK James. I get that, but did you sand it, prime it, paint and clear coat? Or just sand and paint? My radius is aluminum and Numar uses Sherman Williams paint and they want 300 bucks for a quart of paint. I wander if I can use a single stage paint from another auto paint store? Doesn't look like you clearcoated that. Sorry to keep bothering you. It does look great. Thanks
Do you let the Proflex dry before applying the 2nd bead? Also, do you tool the 2nd bead?
Excellent videos !
Glad you like them!
I appreciate the work you do... you should have more subscribers for sure. Going to feature you on my channel for your information and skill. Keep up the good work!!
I really appreciate that. I'm terribe at self promotion. It means a lot to me that you would help a stranger out. I've really enjoyed following your builds. Thanks!
No stranger here sir... I watch your videos and have learned a lot! Hope I can be of help! :)
Excellent work
We have a 2004 Winnebago Horizon Itasca and we've resealed front cap right over drivers side window twice now and used pop rivets. When we use our self leveling jack's the front cap breaks loose only above drivers side window and I can see inside the front cap. Any thoughts? Great videos by the way. Very helpful and informative. Thanks
With Winnebago's construction with a steel enclosed driver compartment secured to the frame, I doubt the frame is the issue. I'd guess the majority of the metal mounts holding the cap to the frame might be broken loose and allowing the cap to flex oddly.
I have watched this video a few times. Thanks as always for posting these great videos. I have a 2005 Itasca Meridian, and am going to tackle this same project myself soon. Planning to use Manus Bond 75 clear. I used Proflex on another RV 3-4 years ago, and didn’t feel like it held up well at all over time. Do you have any suggestions on how to “find metal” when drilling for the front cap screws? Also, am I correct in believing that getting than channel cleaned out thoroughly is both a) crucial, and b) difficult? Thank you.
It's not difficult just tedious. To be sure you should be able to see the frame by taking the cabinets apart on the inside....but that's a lot of work too.
Hi James, I'm getting ready to clean my radius and apply the Geocel. When you apply the second bead of caulk, do you let it cure between beads?
I'm a first time Class A owner and I've learned a whole lot from watching your videos. I've got a 2004 Horizon Itasca which I've had less than one year. My problem is with that darn front roof cap. I've put 3 screws and lots of manus bond where the cap wraps over the cove like in the video. We got back from a camping trip and 2 screws broke off and one screw was twisted at a 45 degrees. On top of the rv the roof cap was half inch forward. Breaking the roof seal. My question is : What could be pulling that roof cap apart with that much force to break off screws? I'm thinking the cab is structurally pulling away from the main body. Something in the frame structure has let loose is what I'm guessing.
Thanks
That is a strange one. The screws I and Winnebago put in on the side just keep the fiberglass from relaxing and should not really have any real tension on it. I make sure to over size the hole in the fiberglass so the screw is only grabbing onto the wall underneathe. Really the screws are just permanent clamps for the adhesive. If the entire front cap seam on top is shifting yes you have some serious issue. I would not be surprised if the adhesive to the cap at the windshield frame is disconnected due to rust but there are still a lot of screws holding it down. The only thing I could think is that the screws locking the interlocking sidewall into the roof are sheared allowing the joint to slide forward and aft. It would be difficult to find out without popping the radius out of the track.
@@AZExpert Ouch! doesn't sound good at all. I'm going to dig a little deeper. Thanks
@@lanceharrison2045 please let us know what you found as I have a similar issue.
Thanks
What approximate cost was this? Looks like outstanding work!
I don't divulge prices but Thanks for watching
So on a roof radius where the roof skin is not tucked in , why not find another extruded aluminum strip that could be sealed under it and screwed on just above the factory gutter? I think that would cure a lot of roof problems
I may have a video coming out soon that might help explain it. Thanks!
I have a 2009 Vectra 40TD and I was washing the roof and getting ready to inspect it. I noticed a small section about 4 feet long on the drivers side of the radius has come un-tucked. I just came back from a long trip so I must be pretty lucky. I am hoping I will use some flex pro and seal it back. I was encouraged when you said this guy caught his in time with his previous repair. Mine is not cracked or ripped. Just started to come undone in the middle, probably cut slightly short and not tucked in enough. Q#1 Is Flex Pro the way to go, I had heard you say 311 is the only thing that sticks to Winnebago roofs in a different video. And Q#2 should I glue the radios itself down with adhesive they seem to be not glued down for some reason. Help :-) Thank You in Advance. There is minor delamination on the roof above this area. It must have come out while I was driving. Like I said I feel pretty lucky. So Q #3 how should I deal with that area. I think I can reach it but Im worried about damaging the foam.
NuFlex 311 is self leveling lap sealant for the top of the roof at vents and seams, ProFlex is a non-sagging clear sealant for the radius edge.
@@AZExpert I Replaced the broken screws removed the screw heads that fell down in the track and was able to get the entire roof to slide back into(All the way back into the rail. I'm still waiting for the pro-flex that I ordered to arrive. this roof obviously has never been serviced as I still see the original adhesive was painted over the sealant the factory used. It is hard to believe that the pro flex will be able to secure it by itself. I will follow your method of filling the rail to hopefully squeeze some behind the fiberglass roof material. then put a second coat on the top of the rail. then I will give it 2 days cure time. I was freaking out, and am so happy to get this back into the track.
Excellent video. I have the same front cap drivers side issue on my 2009 Journey that I just recently purchased. Where are you located in Arizona?
Glad it helped
Roof radius on 2005 Winnebago adventure has come up in one area. Can it be fixed and reinserted without replacement?
yes
James, what do you like to use on a 2003 Class C Minnie Winnie under the bunk edge molding trim for a sealant or butyl tape or both? If sealant which one?
Looks like you had a fun trip east.
Harry
tape is what the factory uses ,but sometimes a sealant like silicone, sikaflex does better as an adhesive sealant.
Just love your videos. About what does it cost to paint the radius like this? Mine is exactly the same.
Thank you, it can be difficult to quote as the front and rear caps likely have the same problem, but $800-$1500.
@@AZExpert hello 👋
Where are you located? My 04 meridian needs roof reduced like in your video.
Joe at Pusher04@gmail.com
I wonder if you couldn't add an extra strip to keep it tucked in better?
I'm not sure how economically, but maybe
Thank you for the awesome videos. Currently resealing radius to channel on 2018 Sunstar. Noticed what looks like dry cracking down the middle of old sealant and a few spots where fiberglass dimpled in from channel. Winnebago callout sheet recommended Stone Mason sealant but can longer get it. I ended up using Nuflex 640. Have you used this sealant before and if so, do you think it’ll do the job. Thanks and keep up the awesome videos.
I think it is likely a very similar product as well. The home stores also have a crystal clear sealant that behaves very similar. Thanks!
Perfect! Thank you for your reply. Was thinking 3 year old motorhome what could possibly be wrong with roof seals. Man was I wrong. Thanks to your videos, it woke me up to proper roof visual inspections and maintenance. Thanks again! 👍
I just purchased Stone Mason sealant this week from Lichtsinn RV, located in Iowa. It is not cheap for sure. April 9th 2021
HELP!!! Watching this video. What adhesive did you use to hold the radius down before you painted and sealed the radius?????Also, where are you located??
I use proflex clear from geocell
I have a 04 vectra. Have the same problem roof came off . What is the best sealant to use to hold the fiberglass roof radius down. Or should I use something like gorilla glue/ sealant ?
I recommend proflex from geocel amzn.to/3wrU6v3
I didn't catch it in time and the back portion of my roof about 2 ft square ripped... How do you go about fixing that? any cost estimate?
It really depends on the condition of the entire roof and what youd like to do.
Will Proflex stick to factory sealant? I have a painted radius, the sealant is starting to crack (after 5 years in the Florida sun). Can I just go over it with Proflex or should I remove all the old stuff?
I remove the loose stuff. if you grab pull it out of the track then do that. If it's stuck, then it's still good, you can put a bead over the top if it's just cracking, it will stick to the factory sealant
Our roof radius has hail damage, about 10 spots, do you think that a fiberglass patch would work out with out removing the whole roof, the coach is 3 years old and the roof is in pretty good shape other than the radius being beat up
Fiberglass repair should be good. I would not recommend replacement for that either. What kind of RV do you have?
Thanks for your input, We have a winnebago vista lx 27n. I really like your video's. Do you think a roof coating on any kind would be in order?
Paint doesn't get sunburnt. That was a cap that was painted and the time between base and clear coat wasn't proper. If you wait too long the base coat needs sanded and re-prepped for the clear coat to adhere properly.
I am not a chemist and can only convey what I see especially in Arizona. The clear coating most exposed to the sun does tend to flake off. This is more likely do to the quality of the clear, but even Toyota cars have a similar problem of sun baking. These motor homes are base coated and cleared by an army of painters in some of the largest climate controled paint booths and do not sit around very long in between stages as production lines wait for no one. Thanks!
@@AZExpert Have you noticed how wonderful the quality control is on these RV's?
I mention it because I do paint for a living. That type of vast peel off comes when the adhesion is compromised. The peeling off process is sped up by exposure to the sun, but would have happened eventually.
@@dmtudder what I notice mostly is that these are made to make it through the first year and not 10 years. They do use good paint...but highest quality paint is very expensive on a class a motorhome and adds no value to any buyer but is a substantial cost which buyers will not pay for. The cheapest clears that I've seen shops put on cars here last 3 years maybe, while high quality clears rarely peel that I have seen no matter the prep. Thanks
@@AZExpert I learn a lot about RV construction from your videos. Thank you.
Got a question. I am trying to do the correct water leak repair of the Pearson Clearance lamps that you dealt with on this rig. The PO just larded the base of the lens up with caulking which failed. After removing the lens, I noted that there was no gasket/seal on the base to keep water out, and there seems to be no list of seals on the Winnebago site, or Pearson site, that speaks to it. What do you do to seal it up?
There is usually no gasket. Winnebago uses spray/expanding foam behind to seal the clearance lights and caps. If I replace them I'll seal the wire holes and screw holes with 100% silicone and put a bead around the lens top and side but not at the bottom. Thanks!
@@AZExpert Much obliged!
Would that RV geocel work well on a TPO roof? Thanks.
it does not self level and is best for metal ofr fiberglass roof materials. I think the solvents in it would be bad for membranes. Thanks!
I wish you'd tell us what these repairs cost.
A google search will give you the ballpark cost. I never list prices on here
Sitting here in our new-to-us 05 Vectra that we are currently living in while we're between houses learning the tricks to make sure my roof doesn't fly off. I appreciate this video, thanks for posting it. Is there anything in particular I need to watch for with where the awning is screwed to the roof? Thanks
You are welcome. Truthfully I've never seen an issue with the the rail installation, of course like the rest of the roof it should be inspected annually. Thanks!
AZ Expert Thanks for the reply. I should’ve clarified as on most of the Vectras of that vintage the awning fabric is attached to the roof itself with screws vs the traditional rail on the sidewall due to the slide out under it. Should I pull the screws one by one and apply sealant to them periodically? How about accessing the radius/cove joint under there to reseal it? Thanks
I understand. I've rarely seen an issue with the roof mounted rail. There is a black butyl sealant under the rail that is much more like tar. Obviously, adding sealant over the top wouldn't hurt, but I haven't seen it necessary. The radius seal can still be accessed by opening the awning, but the awning rail does a great job holding the radius and roof down even if it wasn't sealed.
@@AZExpert Ok, thanks. I appreciate the reply and info!!
Please educate me:
You're using "Proflex RV", it's "geocell", and you think it's urethane.
Winnebago calls for "Stone Mason gutter and siding sealant", which supposedly is no longer available in the US (and I can't find it) which "is not a silicone and not a urethane". They now call for Heng's "Nuflex 640", which can be found, but is really expensive.
I'd like to hear your views on all that. Thanks.
I am not sure what Proflex is truthfully. It is not silicone and I do not think its urethane either based on its properties once cured. The proflex and Nuflex 640 both use some secret blend and their MSDS sheets show different solvents. Neither is a silicone sealant. I found the Proflex to be very similar to the Winnebago sealant in application and appearance and durability. The application is listed as Proflex's intended uses. I won't second guess Winnebago's engineers, but have found Proflex to have worked well for the past 15 years or so. I will say that the on non-painted roofs(white) Winnebago uses Manus urethane which is the cause of failure for every torn roof I've seen as it turns to powder in the sun. So even on unpainted roofs, I use Proflex. Thanks!
Even that was a lot of work
It really is thanks. Much of RV repair seems to be tedious adhesive cleaning..which is likely why I don't like adhesives and roof repair tapes. Thanks!
Didn't even clean up old caulk
sometimes perfect is the enemy of the good
I didn't catch it in time and the back portion of my roof about 2 ft square ripped... How do you go about fixing that? any cost estimate?
depends on the amount of damage if you have the missing piece and the condition of the rest of the roof