RV FIBERGLASS ROOF COATING & GUTTER SEALANT REPAIR
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- Опубликовано: 6 июн 2024
- How to redo your RV Fiberglass Roof, reseal the roof rounded edges to the gutter & make it new again.
The material I use for the roof is Dicor Fiberglass Coating. I go into great detail of what I did & the necessary steps to make your RV Fiberglass Roof like new again. Once completed, your RV Fiberglass Roof will be easy to clean, safe to walk on & reflect a ton of heat from the sun in the summer time. There’s no sense in using some other RVer home remedies that in reality will just need more up keep down the road. Once you prep your RV Fiberglass Roof properly like I showed you and apply this Dicor Fiberglass Coating, the results are so stunting you’ll wish you had done this years ago. The Dicor Fiberglass Coating I applied to our RV Fiberglass Roof is now 6 years old & our roof still looks like new. Once you apply this Dicor Fiberglass Coating, you also DO NOT need to do anything else during the year. No applying 303. No waxing. No polishing. Just wash it with a good detail soap like I use on our coach. Also in this video I cover the importance of keeping your roof seams/gutters in top shape using a Polyurethane Sealant in the rounded seams area. I actually show you how to remove the old roof sealant and replace it with my Polyurethane adhesive to the roof edge. If you do the steps and use the materials I show here, you won't ever have to worry about roof leaks or the roof separating from the gutter. I also cover how to reseal all you roof vents and other items on the roof with Dicor Self Leveling Lap Sealant.
Using my Loctite PL S40 White Window, Door and Siding Polyurethane Sealant for sealing the roof edges behind the gutter, takes 7 days to totally cure. However, in 2 days it will have a nice dry skin over it to protect the sealant. So it's best to have at least a 2 or 3 day window of good dry weather when you apply it. You can do this maintenance in a camp ground. Just be sure you won't be leaving for at least a few days to allow it cure 100%. If you dig out all the old sealant & replace with this sealant, it will take approx. 3 tubes to do a 35' RV. This product is in my Amazon Store BELOW in the "Everything on the Roof" category. It's a perfect solution for this application.
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DISCLAIMER:
We are in no way experts or professional mechanics. But being a journeyman millwright for years & being EX Military, has proven to be very helpful in my lifetime learning how to care for & maintain all sorts of machinery & equipment like: helicopters, airplanes, tanks, motorcycles & many types of other vehicles. That, along with 18 months preparing & upgrading our RV before we went full time, & now traveling for several years has gained us a lot of knowledge. Regardless of what we recommend, consult a professional if you're unsure about working on your RV. Work you perform or products you purchase based on any information we provide is at your own risk. 
Хобби
Thanks for the video. Very informative. Why do you say not to use Silicon Sealant? Is that just on the roof, or anywhere on the coach? thanks for sharing
I was waiting for someone to ask this question, because I wanted to pin this question and my answer so it would appear at the top of all comments.
You don’t want do use silicone sealant anywhere on the RV and here’s why:
Silicone usually does not have UV protection. But even if you happen to find a silicone product that does have UV protection properties, once silicone has been applied to ANYTHING and you come back later to do any repairs, it's nearly impossible to scrap and remove it all off to reapply new material. There's always some residual silicone left behind on the old surface which makes adhering the new silicone product unable to adhere properly. Silicone won't adhere to itself either.
@@RVstreet - it's important to know however, that Winnebago uses silicone sealant from the factory. So if you have one, do not use dicor unless you take all of the silicone off and clean it up first, like you have done. Dicor does not stick to silicone.
@@rbarbour8 So let me elaborate a little more on this for others:
Remember our coach is a 2012. I don't know what type of self leveling sealant they used then. But for me it didn't matter. I stripped all the old sealant off. Then sanded the entire roof. Then wiped down with acetone, then cleaned it with the Dicor cleaner. So I started from scratch. Once the roof was down to bare bones, then I laid down the eternabond tape, then applied a thick amount of the Dicor self leveling sealant over that and everything else up there. Then put 3 coats of the Dicor roof coating over all that. In the 5 years since I've done that all my sealant still looks brand new. No touch ups, no cracking, no nothing at all. That sealant or tape isn't going anywhere.
NOTE: I do not use any type of silicone sealant anywhere on our RV. I hate silicone.
Now on the rounded roof edges, where it tucks in behind the roof gutter, I originally used Nuflex 640 for that when I redid all those seams also 5yrs. ago when I redid the roof. And it has done fairly well, but since then I've switched to my polyurathane product I showed you. That stuff bonds like crazy, stays white-doesn't yellow-or start to crack. It's pretty amazing stuff. But I do still check my seams a couple of times a year and in fact just last week I dug out a couple of areas that had the Nuflex 640 cause it was looking a little questionable and then applied the polyurathane sealant. But other than that no other maintenance at all the last 5yrs. except washing it a couple times a year.
@@RVstreet Thanks for the comment. I should have stated 'later' model years. Both Winnie and Entegra have changed it up in the last few years on some models so unless someone can tell by feel, it's best to call the manufacturer. Thanks again for the clarification. Your video's are awesome and I've learned quite a lot from them.
@@rbarbour8 👍
Cherish all his videos, knowing there will be no more. Miss you, Martin.
Martin, I am a 60 year old veteran with years of Is experience tent camping and travel trailers. I and my wife are just buying our 1st motor home. Retirement is a few years off but I want to be ready. I came across your channel a few months ago, And you are now at the top of my list to watch. I especially appreciate the Detail and Method You so eloquently teach. I am reminded Of Is being in A military classroom. I hope That your videos are archived Forever. And I pray that God grants you healing and endurance to weather through this medical storm. Keep the faith brother. Grace, Peace, and strength of our Savior Jesus be on you and Joni.
Your DIY Videos are the best!
Great info as usual! We really appreciate your problem solving and explanations. The way you think about it makes sense to us. Thank you!!
Thank you. This is the best info I've ever heard for keeping the roof in good shape!
Once again you didn’t disappoint with the valuable information excellently communicated. I’m gettn on the roof today and conducting my annual inspection. Thank you very much for sharing your experience with us! You Rock!!!
Great minds think alike. You did a really thorough reseal, I like that. Nice work.
Wow. Your roof looks better than some new ones I've seen on dealer lots right from the factory. Well done.
This guy is awesome!! Thanks for making the videos!! So helpful!!
Thank you so much Marvin. Your videos are so detailed and well presented. You have giving me confidence in myself to do these things A great thank you again to your wife as well. God bless you both.
... . we love your presentation style !!! Further, your directions for various tasks are so clear, thorough, and well-captured on your videos !!! We can save a ton of money by implementing your preventive maintenance programs !!!
Great video! Love the callout for the 360 vents. They work so well!
I thoroughly enjoy your channel! Glad I found you. We are DIY's and we need to do this this spring. Thanks!
Just did my first coat! and thank you for the educating videos! also praying for your recovery and strength for your Wife to be by your side
No one is as thorough as you! Great job. Thank you
Thank you Bill so much. 🔧👍
Wow dude. Outstanding video and very informative. Thanks for the great work.
Exactly what I was looking for to plan spring maintenance on my Vista's roof. Thank you sir. I hope all is well with you and Joanie.
My 2014 Winnebago roof is showing it’s age and I’m doing this with the products you recommended. Thank you Martin!
I love your videos. I just received your 1 million views notification. Great job!!!
By far one of the best roofing videos I've seen. And your voice reminds me of my step dad Bruce; RIP. He was really awesome. Excellent and good attention to detail.
Great video! Our family just went full-time in a 2007 and the roof is in rough shape. My dad and I are going to reseal our roof like you in the video show so we don't have to worry about it. Thanks for such an informative channel.
Such a great walk through, I own tour buses that always seem to have leaking roofs and this will be perfect, especially for one I am retiring and converting.
Thank you for your informative video. Our RV is 15 years old and we have a leak we cant find on the roof. We haven't maintained it as we should have so I'm not surprised it's a problem now. We're going to follow your process and we're confident it will work. We appreciate the time you took and how well you explained each step. Looking forward to solving the problem!
Thank You as always your TOP NOTCH PROFESSIONAL!! Extremely thorough and fantastic
Martin - thank you both for all the great video. Taking on my roof on my 89 Coachman. Way over due - TPO is missing T&P & most of O. Most of deck needs some sort of patch so just going to pull it all off. I appreciate your attention to detail!
We're on our 2nd Winnebago class A. This is the first I've heard of this. THANK YOU so much!!!
This is a great video and I can attest to the fact that if you don't do this maintenance your entire roof can be blown off, been there done that. Martin, thank you, this is what I will be doing to my newly applied roof fiberglass roof on my 2004 Itasca Sunova. Really appreciate the efforts you put in.
I have been doing so much research on how to maintain my Winnebago fiberglass roof. I recently asked the dealership service center where I bought my rv what products to use and they said to just go to Camping World and ask them. Your video has come along just in time. Thank you, thank you, thank you.
Awesome job detailing the roof sealing.
I have had to watch this video, several times, and I have got it now:- THANKS! ☺
Hi Martin! Thanks for making this video. Your attention to detail is impressive. Your step-by-step instructions lay out the methodology in such an easy-to-understand technique. I appreciate and value you and all your hard work here on your channel.
Thank you so much
Excellent video. Thank you so much for the info. Once again,, you make clear instructions.
I have been doing research for my fiberglass roof but having a hard time getting a good explanation. I just ordered the roof paint and dicor self-leveling. I ordered another sealant for the sides but think I will go with what you recommend. Hadn't seen a good explanation on removing the side sealant so this was a huge help!
Hi Martin! This will be a job for “down the road” when we are retired with more time on our hands! Power washed George’s roof and checked all the seals. He’s good to go for now. Tell Joanie Hi!
blessings in heaven MARTIN. still helping folks
Thank you 4 all the enfo,,,E Plurbis Um,,,welcome back,,and thank you for your service Troop
🇺🇸🙏
Martin..great video and timely. Hubby was looking for a video about FG roofs. Also congrats to you and Joanie on 1M+ views.....well deserved and IMHO...long overdue.
Thank you Marie. Your always so kind. 💗
Great video thanks! I will be following your steps in the coming months
fascinating content RVstreet. I broke the thumbs up on your video. Keep on up the solid work.
One of the cleanest RV roofs I have ever seen! Great job.
Great information you provided.....looks like I will be busy this summer with the roof. However, while jumping off the roof is a good move, it would be more impressive to leap from the ground up onto the roof!! We missed you last week, good to have you back.
We're doing a vid every other week this year. thx Larry
Thank you again for a very informative video.
I don't have a RV but this guy makes me want to get one.
Hello Martin, You have helped me so much, I thought I would share with you. I was watching a custom car builder video and he pulled out his black 1962 Galaxy from storage. He said he does not wash his show cars with soap and water when he takes them to shows. So, he grabbed a bottle of pump spray blue glass cleaner and cleaned the whole car with it. BTW, he had sprayed the car down with WD40 before storing it. He got the car clean and looking good in a few minutes. So, I went out to my shop grabbed a bottle I use for sharpening tools and started cleaning our coach. It works great! The dirt and grime just come right off. I thought you might like to hear another method of cleaning a coach dry.
Respectfully, Kevin
Nice job. Keep to videos coming. Thank you
These videos are excellent, I'm surprised you don't have a larger subscriber base. Mix in a campsite review or something now and then to break things up and to give people more reasons to visit and subscribe.
always great info with common sense!!
Thanks for reply to sealing fiberglass roof.
Beautiful place!! Great video :0)
Your roof is immaculate!
Thank you Gypsy 💗
I did the roof job you described. I used 18 tubes of Dicor Lap Sealant. This project really expended me. I hope in one year I am happy that all is well.
One thing I learned by watching the Dicor videos is that they say to wait two weeks after applying the lap sealant to cover with their fiberglass sealant. I don't know how important this is, but I did wait two weeks.
I also did your hot water tank flush. It really needed it. Thanks for all the help.
You'll be just fine with the coating over the dicor.
Great Video , excellent information.
It looks awesome that roof I gonna do mine this summer for sure because I have a leak on my RV
Great video great imformation. Tks
Great video Martin ! Have to put this on the to-do list which is backing up. Rig in the shop for major slide repair. When it gets back I have to clean and protect the entire body with Rejex. Still have much work remaining underneath on the rust removal job. Passenger side front window leaking and needs resealing pronto! Roof is about number 3 or 4 on the list. Dolly due for maintenance also- bearing, brakes and repaint! Thanks for an excellent video. I was wondering how to redo the front cap to roof seam and I like your approach!
Always luv hearing from you Joe. 🔧 💗
Hey buddy great videos here's a trick that I did scraping up all the old glue around all the components such as the vents and the skylights you get an oscillating tool with a real burnt-out blade so it has no teeth on it take that stuff up one out you'll be done with the whole roof keep up the good work TJ over and out
Well done as always. Thanks.
Great video very good information good product information you do a great job
Glad it was helpful!
Another excellent video! I love your comment on do it right, too many try to take shortcuts and this never works in their favor.
Congratulations on the 1M+ views but frankly I'm not surprised as the content you put out is unique, well done and very instructional.
And can you please ban the two people who gave this a thumbs down??
Thank you Michael so much. YT creators have no control of who 👍 or 👎nor do we see who does it.
@@RVstreet I know, right? Too easy for people to hide behind a 👎 button, but we can give them a 'wave' 🖕can't we....
Great Video, your roof is Immaculate! Thank you for sharing, Happy Easter folks!
But I am not a Dicor Lap Sealant guy.... I am converted to and use Chem-Link and swear by it!
Great job
very nice job sir..
Just found your site. Awesome!! I’m hooked. I have 2007 class A. I’ve purchased sumo springs and all of your recommendations for polish/wax and repair and graphic restoration.
Attacking Hot water heater soon! Awesome videos. Thanks again!
Rob
Thanks fantastic Bob 👍 You'll be way way ahead of the pack.
What's the model of your Class A?
@@RVstreet Monaco Monarch 30’ SVE. I removed all old sealant and roof tape last year. I re-tapped all seams but didn’t know about applying the roof sealant. Looks like you painted it on. Searching for your roof video now. The sealant is unavailable on your Amazon channel-will check again.
Thanks again for your awesome videos!!
@@robnelson4869 Nice coach BTW...
Here's my roof video: ruclips.net/video/H00oNtbvtrk/видео.html
And I just checked my store link and the sealant is available: www.amazon.com/shop/rvstreet
Great video. Saved
With "Goo Gone" Caulk Remover, clearing away and replacing old, leaky sealants is a cinch. Plus, its fast-acting gel is gentle on surfaces. Works on wet and dried silicone and acrylic latex caulk, expansion joint sealants, polyurethane glues and construction adhesives.
Proflex is awesome for winni roof seams...
Good information, 👍😎🇺🇸🦅🍺
I was unaware of this Winnebago roof maintnece issue until about 4 feet of my roof blew up in stiff Iowa winds. When I bought the Winnebago, Instead of sealing the J channel the proper way, I just covered the whole thing with Eternabond. I will say if I hadn't Eternabonded over the joint I probably would have lost the whole roof. For the fix, I had to heat the Eternabond with a heat gun, pull off the white cover, and then scrape off as much of the adhesive as I could. That exposed the subject joint. Instead of using a razor, I used the pointy end of a painters tool to scrape out all the old sealant. I then used the same pointy end of a painters tool to drag a microfiber cloth soaked in solvent to cleane out the joint. I should have used lacquer thinner or acetone, but as I age I'm getting leery of using strong chemicals, so I used 90% isopropyl alcohol. I then filled the joint with adhesive. The hardest part of the job was dealing with the Eternabond mess. I did one side a couple of years ago and used 3m4200. On the other side I used the Locktite product, largely because it was recommended by Practical Sailor. I fouled this article doing a search on the Loctite product. I did it on Tuesday at the campground, and won't drive it again until Saturday for the drive home. I'm hoping the high FL humidity will have cured it enough for the drive home. Enjoyed your video!
Hi Martin
I just read your response to the silicone question of amother viewer.
Thanks again
I'm sorry J, I thought I answered your question. I believe you asked this twice. So are you good to go. Do you have the answer I gave.
@@RVstreet
Ha, well I'm in my 60s now that's my excuse.
Thank you
@@TheSkite575 👍
Sir...thanks for your videos! SERIOUSLY...your videos are the best.. I hope to run into you guys on the road someday. QUESTION: Did you make a video to install the 360 vent cover?
No I didn't. I did all this work before we even had a YT Channel. 👍
Another in a line of great videos. My question is does the use of the loctite product change if the rv has a TPO or EPDM roof? Also, can you give a brief explanation why no silicone products? Thanks again for the awesome videos.
Some TPO or EPDM roofs are attached differently than my fiberglass roof. But, if your roof curves down and around and is held in place with the gutter like mine is then you can use this same sealant. Silicone usually does not have UV protection. But even if you get a silicone product that does have UV protection properties, once silicone has been applied to ANYTHING and now you come back later to do any repairs, it's nearly impossible to scrap it all off to reapply new material. There's always some residual silicone left behind on the old surface which makes adhering the new silicone product unable to adhere properly. Silicone won't adhere to itself either.
Very Nice video! I want to know, if it’s possible to applied it, on my Rv rear vertical plastic molding corner. It have cracks. I put temporarly super white adhesive.
martin great video what would u do if u did not have a glass roof such as Brite Tec
Not sure. I'm not familiar with Brite Tec
Great video, thanks Martin. I have a 7 year old Allegro 34tga, our first motorhome that we purchased last year. When i got on the roof I saw what looked like a half an inch or more of the self leveling sealant. I have seen other videos that have removed the self levelpng sealant and replaced it with eternabond tape around the seams and roof penetrations. it looked cleaner than the mess I have and I was hoping to get your opinion on the use of the eternabond over the self leveling sealant. Also wondering if the fiberglass paint would go right over the tape if I decide to go that route. Thanks for all you do for the RV community.
Not sure what "roof penetrations" are...
My roof was a mess too when I bought it. That's why I started from scratch. Do it once and do it right. I've never had to worry about my roof.
I like using Eternabond tape over the front & rear caps only. Why? Because those are the two most vulnerable areas for leaking and they take the most stress. This is one area I don't want to have to deal with down the road, so using Eternabond tape is pretty much a permanent fix there. The chances of me ever having to pull the front or rear cap off are slim to none. I followed up with self leveling sealant over that to provide additional protection from the sun and then the Dicor coating over that. Sun is brutal as you know.
I would never use Eternabond tape over any other areas because it's to permanent and very difficult to get off if I want or need to replace something like a vent gets cracked, or I need to change out my antenna or a branch breaks a cover or whatever. The self leveling sealant you saw in my video is 5 years old and looks like it was put on yesterday. So no..... no Eternabond tape anywhere else for me. I know others feel differently but that's ok.
I have to stop watching your channel. All you do is create work for me. And for all your efforts, thank you very much.
"All you do is create work for me......"
Ah, but would you continue to watch if Joanie was creating all this work for you wearing a bikini? Or perhaps a really cool looking pair of snow shoes? Just asking 🇨🇦🎅🇨🇦
😜😜😜😜😜😜😜😜😜😜😜😜😜😜😜
Thanks!!
Another great video Martin. That coating you put on, how long does it last before you need to re/apply redo the roof?
I did my roof in 2016 and still looks great and I applied 3 coats back then which took 2 gallons and I'm 35' long. It's a fantastic product and now all I have to do is wash it. Definitely one of the smartest upgrades I did right off the bat.
Take your time and prep the roof right first. That's important to get a good, long lasting result.
Currently it's not available on Amazon therefore not in my store. Once it becomes available again it will be in my store again. Supply chain issues right like everything else. But you MAY find it at a local RV dealer. Dicor doesn't sell to the general public.
www.amazon.com/shop/rvstreet
Hello Marlin and Jonie,
I really enjoy all of your videos and they are really helpful. The trouble is when I watch your videos I have work to do on my motorhome after. Just when I think I am catching up
I know I will never get caught up. I have dodged the bullet a couple of times with flat tires on my dually tires. I am going to order from your Amazon Store the Ezee TPMS. Question putting air in the rear dually are a pain to say the least. Did you ever hear of Borg valve stems? They are made of metal and formed to extend to make filling the tires a lot easier. I tried extenders, clamp on extenders with problems. These Borg valve stems are $140 for 6 tires for my motorhome. Pricey yes but for safety and easy access worth it.
Thanks again.
Ken
Putting air in my dually's isn't hard at all, not sure why it's such a pain for you.
Yes I have heard of the Borg and have read much on them.
But can you add TPMS sensors to the Borg? Have you looked into that?
I don't consider $140 pricey for anything that accomplishes the mission.
Thanks Kenneth so much for watching and supporting our channel. 🙏
@@RVstreet I called Borg and they told me that the will screw on the ends of the valve stems.
I have a 2011 Winnebago 24 J and the steel trims have a round hole and elongated holes. Trying to get the inner valve stem through the outer elongated hole in the outer rim so you can check air pressure and put air in is very difficult. Apparently the Borg valve stem for the inner rim is approx. 7" long way it's bent at an angle so it comes through the elongated hole on the outer rim.
Like I said I have been lucky twice with flat tires on the rear and the other tire carried the load without a blowout. I know I have a good guardian angel.
Thanks again and I will be looking forward to more videos.
Ken
@@kennethkirschbaum1906 Nice follow up Ken. thx 👍
@@RVstreet Your welcome.
Hi Martin
Would you elaborate on why not to use silicone on the camper
Thanks for your videos
You don’t want do use silicone sealant anywhere on the RV and here’s why:
Silicone usually does not have UV protection. But even if you happen to find a silicone product that does have UV protection properties, once silicone has been applied to ANYTHING and you come back later to do any repairs, it's nearly impossible to scrap and remove it all off to reapply new material. There's always some residual silicone left behind on the old surface which makes adhering the new silicone product unable to adhere properly. Silicone won't adhere to itself either.
I have a '97 Roadtrek 170. I can't keep the fiberglass roof clean. It always gets moldy-looking speckles on it and the finish is more than dull. How do I prep, clean ALL the discoloration off, to restore it with the steps you have provided on this video? You explained your video so well...thank you. TREKN-ON ...(soon)
Q: How do I prep, clean ALL the discoloration off, to restore it with the steps you have provided on this video?
A: The same exact way I described how I did mine, then add the coating. I applied 3 coats. Prepping the roof like I did is the most important part. All you'll have to do from then on is wash it when you wash the RV. Your roof will never discolor again.
Great video thank you. I had watch over 50 videos and finally got to you with a perfect and complete instructions, I know feel confident to do this on my own. One question tho, I bought rust-oleum topside paint, you think that will work too? TFS :)
Rust-oleum for what? The top of the roof? If so, I wouldn't use that on my roof.
Awesome video! I have a fifth wheel with a TPO roof. What product would you recommend for this type of roof to have the same benefits of the product you used?
Water damage is a sign of a leaky roof, which is usually caused by separated seams that allow water to enter your insulation. However, if your roof saturation level is under 25% and your remaining seams are in good condition, you can install a silicone restoration system to restore your TPO roof.
A primer will not be needed on a TPO roof that is over five years old because an oily film (found on new TPO) will have worn away. If the oily film is still present, it will prevent the silicone from adhering to TPO properly. If your roof saturation is above 25%, remove the TPO and insulation and install a new roofing system.
I’m not well versed in coating TPO roofs but I did some research for you. Perhaps this would be the way to go.
www.gaf.com/en-us/roofing-products/commercial-roofing-products/tpo-roofing-systems/tpo-primers-sealants/sealants/everguard-one-part-pourable-sealant
When are we getting an RVstreet live stream?
Great video. Question for ya...would the new pipe vent cover allow water to get into it rained or you're driving in the rain?
No.
Those product manufacturers should link to your video.
Dicor second link not working if you care. At least for me.
Thank you my friend. Are you talking about the roof coating? Like a lot of things right now there out of stock for now.
Will a heat gun help remove the old caulking
Great job. Any chance you can address a rubber roof? If you have already done that video could you give me the link. Love your channel.
Have not done a rubber roof video.
Martin, I have a travel trailer with I believe a tpo roof? Was wondering what your thoughts were on using flex seal to cover the roof??
No experience with Flex Seal.
BTW I like how you put eternabond at each end of the roof and then covered with self leveling I intend to do the same with new tpo at each end. The worst part or should I say biggest stress point seems to be the side edges going into side termination bars of my roof. The majority of my leaks are coming from where the stress of movement and time caused those areas to fail. Is there a reason not to run a piece of eternabond down the length of the rood under the new TPO?? At 60 - I figure those edges would possibly outlast me?? Thanks Jim
I would NOT run eternabond tape down the whole length of the roof. If that area ever needs maintenance or repair, eternabond tape is nearly impossible to remove. Just service and maintain your roof edges like you're suppose to every year.
Very informative video and in the process of redoing my roof on my 36 foot Fleetwood Pace Arrow but I have a TPO roof and trying to decide if I should apply the self leveling dicor before or after I roll/paint on the new rubberized coating . ? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
On a TPO roof I'd apply it after rolling on the new rubberized coating
@@RVstreet I suppose I would wash roof , then take off all old dicor, then apply bonding solution by hand , then roll on new roof [TWO COATS ] WITH DRYING IN BETWEEN, which all has to be done in one day according to directions ,Then apply self leveling Dicor . I Think ,,,LOL
I follow all your videos, there the best out there .😊🍻
@@mikemikeska2132 I AGREE. 👏
I have a silicone roof. What should I use for the small cracks?
Martin, I have a 2018 Winnebago intent. However, it’s roof is tpo flex, not fiberglass. How do you recommend treating this type roof so that it’s similar to yours where you don’t have to worry about it for a year or so.
Thanks,
Kyle
Hi Martin, When you used the Dicor prep wash, did you tape off and cover the sides of the RV to prevent dripping ? Also for sealing the sides, could you have used the Dicor sealant rather than the Proline Polyurethane? Thanks again for the video as I am thinking about doing my roof.
No I didn't tape or cover the sides of the RV even though there is a video out there where a guy did do this. I didn't want to go thru all that hassle. That's why I mentioned to do everything by hand. That way you can control the cleaning process and get no splatter off onto the sides. Same thing with final wipe down with acetone.
Then on applying the final roof coatings, I first went around all the rounded edges with my sash brush and applied 3 coats of the coating by hand and came up and over onto the roof area 2"-3". Then when rolling out the final roof coatings with a 3/4" nap roller on my pole, I did this very carefully as I approached the edge of the roof and over lapping where I painted the crown of the roof with my sash brush. Doing it this way and being careful you run no risk of splattering any material onto the sides of the RV.
EDIT: Forgot to answer the sealing part of your question. No I wouldn't use Dicor for this application. The Polyurethane material I use BONDS much better. This stuff is awesome. Remember, those sides flex a lot. You something that not only flex's but bonds those two areas real good.
Hey Martin, I would love to know how you do maintain well on the slides! I need the education please make a video! Thank you and happy travels.
Hi Ali,
I would love to know how you do maintain well on the slides........
What exactly do you mean by this?
Have you checked out myPLAYLISTS page yet? Ton of stuff there.
ruclips.net/user/RVstreetplaylists
@@RVstreet I have seen a lot of your videos. But I don’t recall one specific for maintaining the slides or doing maintenance on an RV slide out. You know like cleaning or lubrication every time you move or relocate. Every time the slide comes in or out? Are we not suppose to do RV maintenance on slide outs? Thank you so much. Your videos help me understand on keeping up with what I’m suppose to do.
@@baortiz25 Oh, OK. Here's two videos I've done on slides so far. One for cleaning and taking care of the rubber seals when you have toppers:
ruclips.net/video/F5YSBrmuTCA/видео.html
And one to clean the top of the slides and the toppers:
ruclips.net/video/lVF_nPZccbQ/видео.html
Lubrication isn't necessary every time you deploy or retract. I lube mine rack & pinion slide systems about twice a year with a dry lube that's in my Amazon Store in the "Sealants, Lubes and Protectants" category. But of course I block my slide gears and rails with my custom made panels too, to keep dirt out.
@@RVstreet thank you!!! I will watch them now!
Martin, I notice the sealant is very generous. Do you just slather on the self-levelling sealant after you put down the Eternabond tape and create that bulky seal?
Yes. In a back and forth motion.
Thanks for the informative video! Does this change at all if you have a gel coated fiberglass roof? Our gel coat has some flaking on the front/rear caps. Planning to retape/seal the seams as you’ve mentioned, but unsure what to do about the flaking.
Our roof has gel coat. But after this prep and treatment no more worrying about the roof. Just wash. Compound polish & protect the caps from now on before it gets worse. Once crazing or cracking begins there's nothing you can do.
@@RVstreet Thanks for the feedback. So can you still you still do this treatment on the areas where the gel is flaking after prep/sanding? Or is this risking a poor bond resulting in flaking on the new treatment?
@@tylers3404 Or is this risking a poor bond resulting in flaking on the new treatment?
Yes it very well could.
If it was me, I would NOT do this treatment on just the areas that are flaking. I would do the whole roof. Why you ask?
Because for one, the roof would look like crap with all these different patch work fixes and that would drive me crazy. 😝 But more importantly, if it's cracking in some areas that means other areas are not far behind. I would take the entire roof down to the fiberglass like I showed and then do the whole roof. This way you get a complete covering and proper bonding over the entire roof. Once that's complete, the whole roof has a complete new coating. No risk of flaking every coming back to the old places or the areas where flaking hasn't taken place yet and now your entire roof will easy to clean, protected from the sun and make the whole RV cooler too. Just remember, prepping is the key to a successful outcome. 👍
Martin,
Dicor suggest I wait two weeks after resealing the vents and other attachments to the roof before applying the fiberglass roof coating.
Can I clean, prep and apply the fiberglass clean and prep solution one weekend and then the next weekend apply the coating? Does the coating have to be apply immediately after using the clean and prep?
Thanks
Can I clean, prep and apply the fiberglass clean and prep solution one weekend and then the next weekend apply the coating?
Yes you can
Does the coating have to be apply immediately after using the clean and prep?
No it doesn't. Just make sure that the roof doesn't get dirty or dusty while you're waiting and you have a good weather window when you apply the coating. No rain or dew for 2 days.
Hey Martin, love your videos, a question, is that a wi fi booster on your coach? If so what kind? Where do you find it? Thanks Lee
Not a wifi booster but a cellular booster. This really helps us get a stronger cell signal so we can use our phones as a hot spot. Mine is the weBoost 4G-X that I installed 4yrs ago. weboost just released a newer version-about a year ago I think-called the WeBoost Drive Reach RV which is stronger and same price as I paid for mine 4yrs. ago. We couldn't do what we do without it. Traveling it is a must have IMO. I have both models in my Amazon Store in the Electronics category. www.amazon.com/shop/rvstreet
thx Lee 👍
@@RVstreet Thank you Martin, your the best. Lee
Thank you for another fine video and nice work. I wonder if the coating you used can be applied over a TPO (rubber roof)?