My takeaway is this BBC would be a great daily driver engine. 8.9 compression sounds pump gas friendly. Or toss it in a '57 Chevy or '67 C-10 and drag race with some nitrous. Great video.
There is no reason to run such a low compression unless you plan on adding a turbocharger. 10.5 ;1 will run just fine on pump gas and at 10.5.1 it will give you a good bump in horsepower. Isn't that the reason for building a big block, torque, and horsepower.
Hey Richard. The inspiration for my 540 twin 80mm turbo motor. Wilson did my manifold as well. 550lb injectors. Can't wait to share my hp numbers when it's done.
I always appreciate your videos. If you want I been told that you can run solid roller lifters on a hydraulic roller cam at low lash . Might be a interesting test on engines that were spun up to a higher rpm . You probably already done that . May not be any different. I use to change my lash a bit on my 302 and see how it effects the torque curve. It did make a difference
I wish you would dyno one of Chevy ZZ427 crate engines . Chevy says its a modern version of the old second gen L-88 they sold as a crate engine back in the 70s and 80s. It’s rated at 480 but I’ve heard most hit 530 on a engine dyno. It actually comes with a HEI ignition, manifold and a pretty small Holly 770 cfm 4 barrel carb.
My thoughts, A 9 second car back in the day was rare back in the late 1980s. Everyone wanted 1000 hp, a 9 second car. We couldn't do more then about 600 on our best car. Pump gas was like 91 max. Twin turbos set to about 10 psi. And a 225 nos plate or manifold injected would yield about 700 to 800 on a 427. At the strip we had 1250 hp cars. And 8 second passes. 600 to 650 off the motors say 540 cid and a 600 burst of n o s. And they were street cars. 10.5.1 comp. 91 oct gas. 454, 496, 427 cid. We had diesal turbos that could make about 1000 hp in some rare cases. No one really ran alcohol on street cars back then or 112 oct fuel. We had aircraft fuel 100 oct. We had used mostly nos and 6 71 superchargers.
hey Richard, would you be interested in testing full length exhausts? H pipes vs X pipes and everything unequal length and equal big and small it would do a lot to clear up exhaust myths and see how different types of exhaust effect the power curve i see alot of things online like "our catback produces an extra 20HP compared too stock" and that just seems like hog wash to me
It will also help to know how much advance is ground into the camshafts you are testing and do some cam testing with same duration & lift but ground with different advance 2, 4, 6 degrees of advance.
Very interested in these big block chevy videos now that I have swapped a junk yard 454 into my k1500. Thank you for the info, would love to hear some input on how to get 600hp on a budget!
Damn. I would've liked to have seen a turbo setup on here. I'll bet with the right setup it would beat them both. Or at least considerally close the gap, low and high rpm.
I've noticed that many cams have a very limited rpm range and the racing ones are worse. Most cams with more then 278 to 284 seem to lose torque on the dyno. Unless you have a top end racing motor with a 320 roller cam, 400 to 450 cfm heads 16.1 comp. I am somewhat of a cam expert. We had the best luck with a good old 274 to 278 at full duration cam. And it worked with lots of engine combos.
These days it's pretty easy to make 1000 HP's. That motor would be a blast to drive and so reliable on pump gas. Dart block and such might be a couple dollars though. Good comparison
When you upgrade your cam, better exaust, more compression or boost, numratically higher differential gears, more t c stall needed. Best highway gears. 3.25 to 3.50 is good. 3.73 to 4.11 with od. Worse on gas 4.30 to 5.13.
I double checked with several stroker kit offerings ,and you are 9.25 with flat top Pistons with 120,CC head just as I knew was the case. While your doing u tube videos I'm actually matching and building them for a living so I new based on experience
Thnx for the insight-but I'm curious how you calculated compression on a motor you have never seen? Use these measured numbers while you are building them for a living to get accurate results! 121.5 cc chamber, 6.6 cc valve reliefs, .003 in the hole, .041 gasket thickness, 5.45 bore gasket. See-you learned something from You Tube!
Do you have a recommendation on a cam upgrade for the Chevy Zz502 ? The heads has been ported and it has roller rockers. I don’t have any papers on the airflow of the heads. I have it in a 73 TransAm together with a Hughes TH400. I am now using a sniper EFI that supports up to 650hp. Inge
Lift issues can happen with to big a cam. Valves hitting the piston that is. Cams with more then 550 lift with flatops can be an issue.its safer to run a moderate spec cam all around. When in doubt, go smaller. For a stock engine I'd never go bigger then a 274 cam. Too big a cam can cause clearence issues, much more stall needed for the converter. Sluggish low end power. Radical idle, too high an idle, vacuum issues. Valvetrain binding. Piston clearencing needed. Cam lobes coming close to rod bolts. Cam lobe fitting in cam bore issues. Etc
I need a good hydraulic roller cam for a stock bore 402 with 781 heads. I'm currently running a comp 265h cam but wanting one for better 1/8th mile track range.
Thank you sir for all your great information! I see you have a valve relief on this motor and the fairly large cam, do you think the big cam would work (PVC) on a stock bottom end gen 6 bbc or would I need new pistons with reliefs?
A really good all around street cam would come in at about 2-2500 rpm max start. And about 278 to 286 degree duration. Old school. And work with 8.5 1 to 10.25 comp.
But you have to agree that longer duration camshafts will sacrifice low end torque, and increasing compression is a way to gain some of that low end torque back. I think that is where this mindset stemmed from, that you "need" more compression for more cam. I agree, you don't NEED it, but it does help in a street application.
@@richardholdener1727 I have an 11:1 small block Mopar. When I had a 226 @ .050 cam, it had great pick-up from a stop (manual transmission). Now with a 258 @ .050 cam, it's gutless down low. Going to, say, 12:1 would help alleviate some of that. See my point?
What would you recommend for my 69 oldsmobile 442 with the 455 big block. Doing a stock rebuild, i am thinking about rolling cam. Any ideas? Thanks Dave
Lots of cubic inches eats up what appears to be a big cam. Imagine that. Us mere mortals with old 396-402-454 engines probably couldn't get away with it being that big on low rpm low compression stuff without losing power idle-3500 where they live on the road
quick questions Rich, I have a half filled 496 BBC, AFR 335 enforcer heads, forged crank and rods, Holley EFI setup, I want to make 800hp on pump gas 93 N/A and then 1300hp on boost with a water to air intercooler and E85, If I use this magic cam or something similar..should I run 10.1 compression or 10.6? Will the 10.6 work with low boost pump 93? Thank you
I've got a 71 bbc "402" block. it's running the factory 8.5:1 compression. looking for a cam to give it a great big block sound. Flat tappet hydraulic cam. thinking of the crower 01294 cam. Thoughts? Any other options for a great sounding "big block" idle with decent performance? or is the compression to low?
I have the same motor,i want to put togather but it has the je dished pistons i think 8.5.1 compression with 119cc 320 proaction protopline head will it come close to this flat top you teststed or to low compression it was suppose to be with blower but i dont want to put a blower our should i go ahead and by new pistons
Changed heads, caruretor, cam, all that, and of course if you can run the cam and heads will do the lift this will happen. I'm looking for a hydraulic falt tappet cam with about .550 to .560 lift that will do the same on low compression. This, to me, is a misleading titlew though I do enjoy your videos.
@richardholdener1727 Couple of things reconsidered, 1st, the statement ends with a ?, 2nd, what is considered low compression? I guess it depends on cylinder head and pistons? I guess lift doesn't affect compression? I just know with 820 heads you probably can't go crazy with lift. I will be running Howard's 98636 springs, cam will be 544/553 lift, should be good for the little fun I have, thanks for replying.
Hello Richard! Is it possible that the blower belt runs on the wrong Side of the assisting pulley? If it where on the flat Side of the belt you have more Angle around the Drive. Greetings from Germany!
nice. so if you had more compression, id bet youd have to run less initial timing so it wouldn't act "lazy" but aint nothing lazy about that power it made!!
Richard what do you mean as fat as a 4 -7 swap doesn't really add power? If I understand correctly the swap helps with crank torsional vibration and such. Do you mean its not significant in the cam to cam or you just haven't seen gains from such a thing? Does it change power in single plane vs dual plane intake?
So is this the cam to use with my 11.5:1 540 I’m planning on spraying a 150 shot on as well as a single plane intake and Holley 4500 terminator x efi and e85???
@@richardholdener1727 not sure how good these world products rec port 305cc heads are but I’ve asked the machine shop to do a little porting on them. As is the case with a lot of these builds everything is more expensive than expected so gonna run what I brung.
The thing about cam manufacturers catalogs.... this cam needs bla.. 3.90+ gears. 9.5 compression. 2500 stall bla.... sure, might be a rough idle in a 366 big block, but very smooth in a 454. I have friends that are running a 292 cam in their 454 and gas good idle. Sure you can hear it but it's not all radical.
I have a 402 BB that came in a car I bought, according to the build sheet it has a comp cams 11-213-3, 292/244 duration, .550 lift with 1.7 ratio rockers, 110 LSA, HS 2001 roller rockers, don't know about the heads, it has 2 Edelbrock 500 CFM four barrels. It seems like it should have more power than it does, is the cam too big ? I have the timing at 36 degrees. Any ideas ? Thanks Jancojk
Richard your killing me, don't have a budget for all that go fast goodies, what works for my 74 MarkIV big block ? Stock 454 ,need a good hydraulic lifter cam? Stock stroke and bore and piston . Thank you
I am retired and trying to finish my hot rod . Retirement fund is dwindling due to state of the economy. Probably a couple hundred bucks for a cam is basically what I have . Thanks for any help
Big blood shows do not like hydraulic lifters you can put solid lifters with the cam you have provided they are the lifters that have a 12,000s hole right through the middle of them you can get them from Howard’s Summit or other places so the cam is getting properly lubed I have done this on many big blocks and it really wakes them up in a The reason big blocks don’t like hydraulic lifters is because of the huge valve springs and there are two valve springs for every valve so it’s too hard on the lifter that has another spring in it to open and close that valve properly they get mushy
The name of those lifters are called direct lube lifters I couldn’t think of the name the first time for my first comment I’d really like to see a dino test done on direct lube lifters that would be very interesting
Richard, I love the videos sir, but I don’t know anyone that runs nitrous for only 800 rpm’s and can say that’s a good nitrous cam!!! Come on, run it from 3000 to 7000 and let’s see what it makes. We use nitrous for 4-13 seconds at a time (depending on your car and track).
I am hearing and reading many horror stories about flat tappet cams getting wiped out during break in. Was wondering if this is something you or your viewers are seeing these days. Seems like comp cams gets mentioned a lot. I've always been under the impression that they made really good stuff, but folks are posting that their quality is not what it used to be. I haven built an engine in 20 years, but I had good luck with them back in those days. I know you run mostly roller cams, but I wondered if you'd seen this trend lately.
I have also heard of this trend. Some attribute the problem to modern oil being reformulated to be cleaner and greener by removing the zinc additives. I’m not sure if that’s the real threat here but just as a precaution , I always use a zinc additive during oil changes in the old Chevy V8
@@richardholdener1727 I was wondering my 496 is 10:1 have me thinking but kids gonna want to kill me if you don't mind Richard I'm building a budget turbo ls 6.0 any recommendations for reasonable turbo setup
Back in the day it was hard to beat a 3.50 gear, a 278 degree cam at full dur. On acstock 8.5.1 motor. 3.73 to 4.11s were awful w o an o d unit. Awful on the highway even at 55. I had a 4x4 gmc with 44 tires and 4.88 gears, and the gears behaved like 3.25 gears in a car. B v
The common knowledge says the cam should be selected to work with the compression...looks like this isnt correct...maybe you can elaborate on this more in a video if you havent already.
My takeaway is this BBC would be a great daily driver engine. 8.9 compression sounds pump gas friendly. Or toss it in a '57 Chevy or '67 C-10 and drag race with some nitrous. Great video.
There is no reason to run such a low compression unless you plan on adding a turbocharger. 10.5 ;1 will run just fine on pump gas and at 10.5.1 it will give you a good bump in horsepower.
Isn't that the reason for building a big block, torque, and horsepower.
Hey Richard. The inspiration for my 540 twin 80mm turbo motor. Wilson did my manifold as well. 550lb injectors. Can't wait to share my hp numbers when it's done.
good luck
I always appreciate your videos. If you want I been told that you can run solid roller lifters on a hydraulic roller cam at low lash . Might be a interesting test on engines that were spun up to a higher rpm . You probably already done that . May not be any different. I use to change my lash a bit on my 302 and see how it effects the torque curve. It did make a difference
Damn Richard it's like you know I'm building a big block and looking for ideas 💡
Hey Richard I would like to see the tunnel ram bbc with turbo boost and 2 carbs FTW
I wish you would dyno one of Chevy ZZ427 crate engines . Chevy says its a modern version of the old second gen L-88 they sold as a crate engine back in the 70s and 80s. It’s rated at 480 but I’ve heard most hit 530 on a engine dyno. It actually comes with a HEI ignition, manifold and a pretty small Holly 770 cfm 4 barrel carb.
770cfm isn’t small for 530hp though.
Would love to see a video on using such a large cam on a blown bbc that is a basic 454
Great power for the 5% that can afford the build, love your 496 builds
95% OF WHAT I DO IS JUNKYARD-THIS 5% HELPS US UNDERSATND LOTS OF STUFF
Hope to find those junk yard aluminum heads.
My thoughts,
A 9 second car back in the day was rare back in the late 1980s. Everyone wanted 1000 hp, a 9 second car. We couldn't do more then about 600 on our best car. Pump gas was like 91 max.
Twin turbos set to about 10 psi. And a 225 nos plate or manifold injected would yield about 700 to 800 on a 427.
At the strip we had 1250 hp cars. And 8 second passes.
600 to 650 off the motors say 540 cid and a 600 burst of n o s. And they were street cars. 10.5.1 comp. 91 oct gas. 454, 496, 427 cid. We had diesal turbos that could make about 1000 hp in some rare cases. No one really ran alcohol on street cars back then or 112 oct fuel. We had aircraft fuel 100 oct. We had used mostly nos and 6 71 superchargers.
hey Richard, would you be interested in testing full length exhausts? H pipes vs X pipes and everything unequal length and equal big and small it would do a lot to clear up exhaust myths and see how different types of exhaust effect the power curve i see alot of things online like "our catback produces an extra 20HP compared too stock" and that just seems like hog wash to me
One cam to rule them all, one cam to find them, One cam to bring them all, and in the chopness bind them
Impressive that cam can ask for part#?
CB 300BR-14 Summit racing
Hey Richard, how about working your might. On a 396? How far can you take an old school engine with modern cam, intake and heads?
It will also help to know how much advance is ground into the camshafts you are testing and do some cam testing with same duration & lift but ground with different advance 2, 4, 6 degrees of advance.
Very interested in these big block chevy videos now that I have swapped a junk yard 454 into my k1500. Thank you for the info, would love to hear some input on how to get 600hp on a budget!
I'm swapping a 97 454 into my 85 6.2 cucv. Put a cam and turbo.
Big block guy here. If I went LS I'd probably have more money for tires right now.
😂
That was impressive hp gain . I know 2 dominators usually adds power over 1 but 60 hp was insane. Ive seen 40 to 45 b4
the extra carb was not what the power went up
Damn. I would've liked to have seen a turbo setup on here. I'll bet with the right setup it would beat them both. Or at least considerally close the gap, low and high rpm.
I've noticed that many cams have a very limited rpm range and the racing ones are worse. Most cams with more then 278 to 284 seem to lose torque on the dyno. Unless you have a top end racing motor with a 320 roller cam, 400 to 450 cfm heads 16.1 comp.
I am somewhat of a cam expert. We had the best luck with a good old 274 to 278 at full duration cam. And it worked with lots of engine combos.
" At full duration cam " what does that mean ?
These days it's pretty easy to make 1000 HP's. That motor would be a blast to drive and so reliable on pump gas. Dart block and such might be a couple dollars though. Good comparison
When you upgrade your cam, better exaust, more compression or boost, numratically higher differential gears, more t c stall needed.
Best highway gears.
3.25 to 3.50 is good. 3.73 to 4.11 with od.
Worse on gas 4.30 to 5.13.
I double checked with several stroker kit offerings ,and you are 9.25 with flat top Pistons with 120,CC head just as I knew was the case. While your doing u tube videos I'm actually matching and building them for a living so I new based on experience
Thnx for the insight-but I'm curious how you calculated compression on a motor you have never seen? Use these measured numbers while you are building them for a living to get accurate results! 121.5 cc chamber, 6.6 cc valve reliefs, .003 in the hole, .041 gasket thickness, 5.45 bore gasket. See-you learned something from You Tube!
Do you have a recommendation on a cam upgrade for the Chevy Zz502 ?
The heads has been ported and it has roller rockers.
I don’t have any papers on the airflow of the heads.
I have it in a 73 TransAm together with a Hughes TH400. I am now using a sniper EFI that supports up to 650hp.
Inge
One cam to rule them all!
One cam to find .....them extra hp's
@@ryurc3033 and in the torqueness bind them.
I'd like to see that camshaft in a 468... can you make it happen
Lift issues can happen with to big a cam. Valves hitting the piston that is. Cams with more then 550 lift with flatops can be an issue.its safer to run a moderate spec cam all around. When in doubt, go smaller.
For a stock engine I'd never go bigger then a 274 cam. Too big a cam can cause clearence issues, much more stall needed for the converter. Sluggish low end power. Radical idle, too high an idle, vacuum issues. Valvetrain binding. Piston clearencing needed. Cam lobes coming close to rod bolts. Cam lobe fitting in cam bore issues. Etc
It's like SS2 version for the Big Block.
I would like to see the torque cure on the vortex.
I need a good hydraulic roller cam for a stock bore 402 with 781 heads. I'm currently running a comp 265h cam but wanting one for better 1/8th mile track range.
Big block fan here!! This must be the comp cams 300 something cam. Edit to say, nope.
it's a drag race cam
So a 300° duration @ 0.05" is perfect then for my small 2.0 liter turbocharged four cylinder, Yay! Talk about a magic cam!
Thank you sir for all your great information! I see you have a valve relief on this motor and the fairly large cam, do you think the big cam would work (PVC) on a stock bottom end gen 6 bbc or would I need new pistons with reliefs?
no it won't
@@richardholdener1727 thank you I thought it might be too much lift.
@Bryan Goff get a tool and cut the valve reliefs with aa drill easy
A really good all around street cam would come in at about 2-2500 rpm max start. And about 278 to 286 degree duration. Old school. And work with 8.5 1 to 10.25 comp.
Big cams are known to limit the powerband range. Some about 5400 to 8500 rpm.
The problem with certain or most t rams is filling the extra volumn, in the upper part of the t ram.
I’d like to see it run with a 10/71 or 12/71 it’s pretty big cubes and turning pretty hard, possibly running out of blower in the roots style
We had to jet duel carbs way down on say duel 850s. A d low rpm power will suffer.
How would that work in a stock vortec 7.4 in a stock truck
But you have to agree that longer duration camshafts will sacrifice low end torque, and increasing compression is a way to gain some of that low end torque back. I think that is where this mindset stemmed from, that you "need" more compression for more cam. I agree, you don't NEED it, but it does help in a street application.
the compression helps at every rpm on every cam
@@richardholdener1727 I have an 11:1 small block Mopar. When I had a 226 @ .050 cam, it had great pick-up from a stop (manual transmission). Now with a 258 @ .050 cam, it's gutless down low. Going to, say, 12:1 would help alleviate some of that. See my point?
What would you recommend for my 69 oldsmobile 442 with the 455 big block. Doing a stock rebuild, i am thinking about rolling cam. Any ideas? Thanks Dave
Looking for a good cam for a 66' 396 360hp 2bolt main block trying to keep everything period correct as far as heads and intake
Comp has some muscle car cams if you want the factory sound-but there many others avail
Lots of cubic inches eats up what appears to be a big cam. Imagine that. Us mere mortals with old 396-402-454 engines probably couldn't get away with it being that big on low rpm low compression stuff without losing power idle-3500 where they live on the road
Bigger carbs orders work best on high rpm big cid engines and on forced apps usually.
Wow 39 timing advance, my 565 9.5 to one only 34-35 , and i feel the engine a little lazy, maybe need more timing
100hp from swapping from one tunnel ram to another?!?! Crazy!
not 100 hp
David Vizard’s gotta be at home cursing and shaking his fist at the screen watching this
A 4 7 cam swap can add about 10 hp
quick questions Rich, I have a half filled 496 BBC, AFR 335 enforcer heads, forged crank and rods, Holley EFI setup, I want to make 800hp on pump gas 93 N/A and then 1300hp on boost with a water to air intercooler and E85, If I use this magic cam or something similar..should I run 10.1 compression or 10.6? Will the 10.6 work with low boost pump 93? Thank you
800-hp na on a 496 will be very difficult and require high compression and a very big cam and likely a tunnel ram
What is the LC on that cam?
I've got a 71 bbc "402" block. it's running the factory 8.5:1 compression. looking for a cam to give it a great big block sound. Flat tappet hydraulic cam. thinking of the crower 01294 cam. Thoughts? Any other options for a great sounding "big block" idle with decent performance? or is the compression to low?
don't know specs on that cam
@@richardholdener1727 112. lobe sep, 225/233 duration at .050, lift is .515/.536 at 1.7
I have the same motor,i want to put togather but it has the je dished pistons i think 8.5.1 compression with 119cc 320 proaction protopline head will it come close to this flat top you teststed or to low compression it was suppose to be with blower but i dont want to put a blower our should i go ahead and by new pistons
a dish piston on a BBC with 119 cc heads might be lower than you think
Changed heads, caruretor, cam, all that, and of course if you can run the cam and heads will do the lift this will happen. I'm looking for a hydraulic falt tappet cam with about .550 to .560 lift that will do the same on low compression. This, to me, is a misleading titlew though I do enjoy your videos.
a cam works with any compression
@richardholdener1727 Couple of things reconsidered, 1st, the statement ends with a ?, 2nd, what is considered low compression? I guess it depends on cylinder head and pistons? I guess lift doesn't affect compression? I just know with 820 heads you probably can't go crazy with lift. I will be running Howard's 98636 springs, cam will be 544/553 lift, should be good for the little fun I have, thanks for replying.
If the first set up was on a 454, how much difference would there be? Just checking some options. You can't beat cubic inches for power.
Hello Richard! Is it possible that the blower belt runs on the wrong Side of the assisting pulley? If it where on the flat Side of the belt you have more Angle around the Drive. Greetings from Germany!
there is no slippage
@@richardholdener1727 i dont mean slippage. I Just mean ribble belt on the tension pulley. I Like your Videos very much
Interesting
nice. so if you had more compression, id bet youd have to run less initial timing so it wouldn't act "lazy" but aint nothing lazy about that power it made!!
Hey Richard what octane fuel were these tests run with? If you said it i missed it so I do apologize if so.
na was run on 91-boost was race gas
I'd have ran a budgeted 284 flat tappet streetable camshaft with solid rollers on a hydrolic cam.
Would make more everywhere with the proper solid cam.
Richard what do you mean as fat as a 4 -7 swap doesn't really add power? If I understand correctly the swap helps with crank torsional vibration and such. Do you mean its not significant in the cam to cam or you just haven't seen gains from such a thing? Does it change power in single plane vs dual plane intake?
it does not change power
I've seen 4000 plus stall tork converters and super high rpm powerband bracket cams and they suck on the street.
So is this the cam to use with my 11.5:1 540 I’m planning on spraying a 150 shot on as well as a single plane intake and Holley 4500 terminator x efi and e85???
it will work if you have enough p-v and good heads
@@richardholdener1727 not sure how good these world products rec port 305cc heads are but I’ve asked the machine shop to do a little porting on them. As is the case with a lot of these builds everything is more expensive than expected so gonna run what I brung.
@@richardholdener1727 what is the rpm range? Item #? I may name this 69 Camaro the “Ricardo Ripper”
The thing about cam manufacturers catalogs.... this cam needs bla.. 3.90+ gears. 9.5 compression. 2500 stall bla.... sure, might be a rough idle in a 366 big block, but very smooth in a 454. I have friends that are running a 292 cam in their 454 and gas good idle. Sure you can hear it but it's not all radical.
I have a 402 BB that came in a car I bought, according to the build sheet it has a comp cams 11-213-3, 292/244 duration, .550 lift with 1.7 ratio rockers, 110 LSA, HS 2001 roller rockers, don't know about the heads, it has 2 Edelbrock 500 CFM four barrels. It seems like it should have more power than it does, is the cam too big ? I have the timing at 36 degrees. Any ideas ?
Thanks Jancojk
292/244?
The comp cams sheet says duration 292 intake 292 exhaust, duration at .050 is 244, lift with 1.7 rockers .550, lsa 110
@@richardholdener1727 sounds like th eold comp 292 magnum hft cam
So what is the cam?
the specs of the cam were supplied in the video (but the reality is that every cam will work in all these situations too)
Hey Darrel what cam is this?
specs were given
@@richardholdener1727 is it comp cams 300 BR? Or Howard’s or lunati?
MY OTHER BROTHER DARREL SAID IT WAS COMP
@@richardholdener1727 😆👍🇺🇸
@@scottpeck1149 Watch the video the info is there
Richard your killing me, don't have a budget for all that go fast goodies, what works for my 74 MarkIV big block ? Stock 454 ,need a good hydraulic lifter cam? Stock stroke and bore and piston . Thank you
budget?
I am retired and trying to finish my hot rod . Retirement fund is dwindling due to state of the economy. Probably a couple hundred bucks for a cam is basically what I have . Thanks for any help
you do the build with what you have-this was not a build-this was a dyno test to illustrate different combos
Big blood shows do not like hydraulic lifters you can put solid lifters with the cam you have provided they are the lifters that have a 12,000s hole right through the middle of them you can get them from Howard’s Summit or other places so the cam is getting properly lubed I have done this on many big blocks and it really wakes them up in a The reason big blocks don’t like hydraulic lifters is because of the huge valve springs and there are two valve springs for every valve so it’s too hard on the lifter that has another spring in it to open and close that valve properly they get mushy
The name of those lifters are called direct lube lifters I couldn’t think of the name the first time for my first comment I’d really like to see a dino test done on direct lube lifters that would be very interesting
Low fuel press or lean up top
no
Richard, I love the videos sir, but I don’t know anyone that runs nitrous for only 800 rpm’s and can say that’s a good nitrous cam!!! Come on, run it from 3000 to 7000 and let’s see what it makes. We use nitrous for 4-13 seconds at a time (depending on your car and track).
it does the same thing from 3000-7000-but you already know that
It made 833hp and 712 ftlbs, on a 8.9:1 compression 540 BBC.
I am hearing and reading many horror stories about flat tappet cams getting wiped out during break in. Was wondering if this is something you or your viewers are seeing these days. Seems like comp cams gets mentioned a lot. I've always been under the impression that they made really good stuff, but folks are posting that their quality is not what it used to be. I haven built an engine in 20 years, but I had good luck with them back in those days. I know you run mostly roller cams, but I wondered if you'd seen this trend lately.
I have also heard of this trend. Some attribute the problem to modern oil being reformulated to be cleaner and greener by removing the zinc additives. I’m not sure if that’s the real threat here but just as a precaution , I always use a zinc additive during oil changes in the old Chevy V8
China blanks China lifters it just isn't comp it's a lot of brands good old china junk use high zinc oil and pray 🙏 that's where it is these days
3 xe hft in a row and 1 xfi hr flat. Never again
I think it all depends on how much assembly lube you use and if you follow break in instructions I also belive this is on higher lift cam problem
😮 to
What is it?
did you watch
How efficient would this be under 10:1
it was under 9:1
@@richardholdener1727 I was wondering my 496 is 10:1 have me thinking but kids gonna want to kill me if you don't mind Richard I'm building a budget turbo ls 6.0 any recommendations for reasonable turbo setup
@@richardholdener1727 also what cam was this......
It's 540 cubic inches
that cam also works on every other displacement
On his custom cam, Short powerband I bet guys.
Dude!!!!!!!!
Anything needing more then 2800 stall would be a bit radical.
Back in the day it was hard to beat a 3.50 gear, a 278 degree cam at full dur. On acstock 8.5.1 motor. 3.73 to 4.11s were awful w o an o d unit. Awful on the highway even at 55.
I had a 4x4 gmc with 44 tires and 4.88 gears, and the gears behaved like 3.25 gears in a car.
B v
Good Grief.... I thought I missed the Magic Cam.....
Big racing cams have limited rpm ranges.
You can advance or retard a cam with about a 400 to 800 rpm difference by advancing or retarding it 2 to 4 degrees.
That cam in the pic is damaged by the roller
I think the compression is 9.4:1 not 8.5:1 A.090 bump on a 454 will get you 8.7:1. 119 CC heads ,flat top 8:2
You might want the compression to be higher-but it was not
The best cam.....hmmmmm. 274 to 278 xe full duration. Awsome street made power. 2000 to 6200 is a realistic combo you will be happy with.
I would be happy with no boost
That's a big cam rich is talking about. Good for racing not street. 742 lift is a big cam.
If 1 cam was so great then why do the cam companies make all those grinds???
Bv
The common knowledge says the cam should be selected to work with the compression...looks like this isnt correct...maybe you can elaborate on this more in a video if you havent already.
THE CAM WORKS WITH ANY COMPRESSION RATIO-AS SHOWN
I like my power to be in 1/8 mile .
That engine is sitting on the dyno and not in a car, so who knows it's characteristics.
I like your comparisons but to put to small a cam is a waste of time
Slow the heck down! Damn!
N/A this engine should have made another 100 Ft. Lbs of torque Lobe centers should have been down 106 lobe centers more torque lower RPM
no
@@richardholdener1727 Amazing how internet readers think they wanna teach you something cause they read it somewhere.
Imagine trying to drive a cam on the street that starts making power at 3500 plus rpm. Not to fun.
setup right its a blast. mine starts 3500ish-4k smooth as silk at any rpm. Gearing tuning etc.
My ex could drive this thing no problem
Personally I blame squirrels
I blame government ☺
@@fusiondensity3287 what about government squirrels?
Nuts!!!
This proves the better the heads uh.
@@MrJosephfunk that too
you are wasting your exhaust energy. try a turbo setup. most efficient way.
Personally I blame the rats…Rat motors that is!
Rich! Why Trick Flow Heads?!
to start the mild vs wild comparison-it's what we had