Repairing a dead Chamberlain Lift Master garage door opener
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 9 сен 2019
- How to repair an unresponsive Chamberlain Lift Master garage door opener. After 13 years of service my garage door opener suddenly died. I recently replaced the drive gears inside the unit so I didn't want to start over with a completely new system. Watch this video to see how I was able to get my garage door opener working again.
** Disclaimer **
All of my videos are offered for informational and entertainment purposes only. If you decide to follow any procedures I show in my videos you do so at your own risk. While many repairs I show are not difficult, you should assume for your own safety that there are inherent risks and hazards and that these hazards may cause serious injury and/or death. Always use appropriate tools in good working condition and wear appropriate safety gear such as eye protection, ear protection, gloves or any other protective equipment that might be needed.
Information given in this video does not guarantee the desired outcome. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper repair, improper use of tools, equipment, or information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not the video creator FiveAble. 
Хобби
![100 Days - [Minecraft Creative 2]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/OmogWsk_ZZg/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for the help. I had a garage door repair man give me an estimate - $1050! He said he wouldn't try to fix it because other problems are likely to surface in the near future, so he recommended replacing the entire system. I ignored him and ordered the logic/power board from Amazon, and installed it in no time. The door is working well!
Wow, $1050 seems pretty expensive! Glad you fixed it yourself and saved a lot of $$$. The only other problem I have had with my opener was with a plastic gear. The replacement gear set was about 1/4 the price of the logic/power board but more work to install. If I ever have to do the gear again I’ll make a video for that repair. Thank you for commenting!
Your video was the exact cure for what I needed. You explanation exactly described the job. Thank you!!
Hi Mark, I’m glad you found my video helpful! Thank you for the kind comment!
Victory! Replaced panel this AM. Unit put up a bit of a struggle, couldn't get one of the screws out. My older unit has screws you put the wires behind, that also took a little time. Control board was 41A5021-E. Nice lady at Chamberlin told me to get the updated 5021-I unit.
Thanks for the video and the info.
That is great news! So glad you got it fixed on your own!
Thank you so much for commenting and sharing your success! It helps others see they can do this repair too.
Your video was perfect. I followed your steps exactly and everything worked just fine. Installation took me about 30 minutes. Thank you!
Hi John, So glad the video helped and you were able to fix your garage door opener! Thank you for commenting and sharing your success!
Thank you for the video. I followed your instruction and the garage door is working again!
That’s great news! So glad the video helped. Thank you for commenting and sharing your success!
I'm impressed. You absolutely covered everything. Instructions were better than good.
Hi Steve, Thank you for the kind comment! I really appreciate it!!!
Hello, your video on garage door issue gets an A+, you didn't miss a thing and it worked like a charm for me.. Thank a lot
Hi Mat, I’m glad you found my video helpful! Thanks for sharing your success and leaving such a nice comment! 😊
Thank you for the Super Thanks!!! 😊
Great video and perfect for my repair!! I followed your steps and it worked great. Thanks for taking the time to capture the steps. Saved me $200+.
Hi Bill, Thank you for the kind comment! I’m glad the video helped you fix your door opener yourself and save some $$$!
@@fiveable
k😮
Very helpful, going to order the part now. Much better than buying a new unit. Thanks.
Hi Chris, I hope you get it going again soon! Thanks for commenting!
I've had an issue on an opener once. Was gonna pull the circuit board to check for bad solder joints and replace the gear drive. Found myself replacing just the box and keeping the rest of the hardware. Oddly enough it was a different model but bolted up no problem. Great how-to video!
That’s good info to know about just replacing the box. I think there are probably a lot of common parts across different models. I replaced the gear on mine back before I started making videos. The least fun repair on a garage door is replacing the springs that balance the weight of the door. It’s dangerous too. Anyway, I’m glad you liked my video. Thank you for your comment!!!
I just completed the installation of my new unit and it took me exactly 15 minutes. Prior to watching your video, I had placed a service call to a local garage door company for repairs. After viewing this DIY video, I just saved myself $250 bucks. Yaaaaay! 😃. Thank you again.....
Hi @DonJen2478. That’s great news! I’m glad you found my video helpful. Thanks for taking the time to comment and share your success!
I followed your instructions and all went great. Thank you.
That’s great news! 👍🏻
Good job! This worked for us. We had two, so we replaced the bad one with the working one to make sure this was the problem. Worked now we just have to order a replacement and we will put it on the other one. Thanks!
That’s great news! Make sure to get a compatible version. Sometimes a letter or two difference in a part number can make a big difference.
Thank you for your comment!
@@fiveable yes sir...ordered the same one you did. Thanks
OMG! It worked! Ours was older and looked a little different inside, but we managed to fix it anyway. Thanks for the help!
That’s great news! Glad you were able to fix your door opener. Thank you for commenting!
My opener didn't work. I tried replacing the lightbulb, the batteries in remote controls, buying new remotes. All without results. I was about to contact the pro service but decided to check online first. Very glad to find your video. I ordered the logic board and replaced the old one, and it worked beautifully. Thank you so much!
Hi, I’m glad you found my video and it helped you fix your opener! Thank you for commenting and letting me know the logic board replacement worked for you too!
My opener has the same problem, I will use your video to fix it, thanks
You save may day! luckily I have a double garage .I just swapped the board from the other opener. thank you!
Wow that’s great! So glad you found my video helpful! Thank you for your kind comment!
I can’t thank you enough! I had the same problem and this repair worked perfectly.
That’s great news! I’m so glad you found my video helpful and the repair worked for you too!
Great video, this gave me the confidence to try myself, and I was successful in doing so. You probably saved me a few hundred bucks.
Hi Tyler. That’s great news! I’m glad you were able to fix your door opener yourself. Thank you for commenting and sharing your success!
Just fixed my sons garage door opener.. thanks to your video .. 🙃🤓🤗
Hi Ericka! That’s great news! Thank you for commenting and letting me know my video helped!
Thanks, followed your video and all went well. I did have to adjust the opening and closing strength but that was straight forward.
Congrats! You just saved yourself some $$$! 😊
My 2008 Chamberlain had a total power failure this morning. I disassembled it according to the video. As I suspected a power supply issue, I closely examined that board for faulty solders as others had suggested without finding issues. I did see the 330uF 35volt electrolytic capacitor and knew that these old caps usually fail before the other components on this board so I changed it with one I had on hand. Garage door now functioning properly and only cost me 50 cents or so for the capacitor. Thanks for the video.
Hi, Thanks for sharing this info. I saved my old dead board and will take a look at the capacitor you mentioned. Glad you got your garage door opener working again for under $1. That’s awesome!
He is the one who repair anything here thats what repair mean
what are you some sort of electrical engineer
You saved the day! Thanks for this great video. Circuit board on order!
Thank you! Hope the fix is quick and easy when you get the replacement board!
Outstanding explanation!
I had this problem recently. It was a broken solder joint on a pin connector on the circuit board to the wire harness. I simply resoldered all the connector pins on the board & also the transformer because those too can develop broken solder joints. I figured as long as I went through all the trouble to get that circuit board out I might as well remelt any other likely cold (broken) solder joints.
I have exactly the same problem. Thanks so much for your video. Will do it tomorrow.. Thank you sooo much for your time and effort that would save me a lot of money and headache.
Best of luck to you with the repair!
Thanks so much
Needed to purchase the board yet!!!
Thank you so much, I was goin go replace the whole garage opener until i saw this video, was able to fixed it just by replacing the board. The garage repair guy quoted me for 600$.
Glad you got it working and saved some $$$! Thank you for commenting and sharing your success!
Excellent information thank you
Great video. My issue was discovered on the first check, power coming from the outlet.
Glad you checked that first! Hopefully all you had to do was reset the breaker. Thank you for commenting!
This was an excellent video 👍🏼👍🏼thank you soo much
This thing is straight up amazing!
Thank you for your kind comment!
Thank you so much, exactly what I needed to try to fix my own
Hi Christopher. Glad you found my video helpful. I hope the repair goes smoothly for you! Thanks for commenting!
Great tutorial! Just fixed my garage! Thanks!
Awesome! Thanks for sharing your success with the repair!
Good video, lots of great tips. Thanks!
Thank you, @tullahomaC!
My opener (I have the exact same one) was completely dead. Found your video, replaced the circuit board, and we're back in business. Thanks!
Hi Bryan, that’s great news! I’m glad you found my video helpful. Thank you for taking the time to comment and share your success!
Hi I think the same is happening to mine
How much did that circuit board run you?
I think it was about $75 from Chamberlain's website.
I like your sincerity..
You are a lift guru now 👍
I applaud your effort & diligence ! Last part of video for adjustment is not force adj. That adj. is travel distance, period ! Set force at 7 & leave it there . Anymore than that , then there's another problem. If down travel is to much, then when it hits floor it automatically goes back up, to little, well ? Do the math I guess. Less down travel. I'm done. Tks for reading
Hi Eric, Thanks for the feedback and information about the force setting! I have also heard that problems with the spring tension can affect the settings. Given the door was operating fine before the board died I was working with the assumption that everything else was in pretty good shape.
Saying set force at 7 without exception, is only going to increase the chance of damage in the future.
Force on a single car door is going to be less than force on a 16' or 18' door.
The difference in weight and size is something that should not be ignored, regardless of spring balance.
Set each force individually per door.
Not to mention the fact that force control pressure will vary per unit and manufacture. Trust yourself, not the #'s or you may regret it.
Thanks for your video. You save me hundreds of dollars :). My model is 41A5483-4C. It's the same exact process. Thanks!
Hi Ainurak. Congratulations that’s great news! Comments like yours make me glad I took the time to make, and post, this video. Thank you for commenting and sharing that the repair is the same for 41A5583-4C!
Videos like yours have saved me $$$. I have fixed washer, dishwasher and now garage door :). Mine is actually very straightforward. I didn't have to change any settings, just replaced the board and it works. Thanks again.
Thank you for the great instructions! The miscellaneous information was very helpful, as well. Journey explained step by step! I laugh at the Progressive Insurance commercials (protect you from becoming your parents) 🤣! I don't know if I'm doing weird Dad shyt by trying to find the right emoji to express a chuckle. Great Parents and Teachers explain EVERYTHING!! Thank you Sir for your time and work. May God smile upon you and your family! Cheers, and God Bless!
Hi B P! I'm glad you found my video helpful. Thank you for such a kind comment!!! Your emoji selection is just right. May God smile upon you and your family as well!
Great information.
Thank you!
Ditto. Picked up part on the Bay. Took 15 minutes!
Awesome!
It would be good to see the work illuminated. Your words are clear, but if its a video, not just audio, i Thanks
Great video
Thank you Rick!
My man! Thanks and subscribed
Glad you found my video helpful! Thanks for your comment & subscribe!
Love the Harry Perry shirt!!
Good call! You are probably the only person watching this video who has recognized it!
A great help
Thank you!
Great video thanks..Amigo
Thanks José!
10/10! Thank you
Using your phone to take pictures is the best.👍
My Liftmaster remote stopped working when the lights were on. The opener was so old that they discontinued making the logic board. I chose to replace all the electrolytic capacitors on the logic board and now all is well.
Pretty good install I do not really understand sometimes with a new motherboards why the fourth setting needs to be so high up just for it to work but you want to disengage your garage door from the opener make sure the garage door is balanced and then your garage door chain I can hear is very loose you want to tighten it up about 1/2 inch above the center of the rail and then any access emergency release rope you have you just trim it and burn the end of the rope and then you lubricate the whole entire garage door hinges rollers Springs and bearing and then everything should be set to go
Thanks for your comment and the helpful tips you provided!
I thought the chain seemed too loose. I tried to tighten up the chain a little but was concerned about adjusting it too tight and causing other problems. I have a set of tensioning bars from replacing springs on another door years ago. I’ll check the balance soon and get the chain adjusted.
Thank you
Hope the video helped. Thank you for commenting!
Lift - Misery got rid of the walk thru eye , light turn on feature and the 10 blink bad eye situation...there is a way to regain these functions , but you need a certain wall button to turn these on ..good video tho....most of the time it is a bad solder joint on your PS board..btw , if you have to turn your force settings near max ..you have a worn motor or cap getting ready to fail
Helpful, thank you. I've got two 1/2 HP LM Pro Security model. One for each door. One side seems to lose power, and the green light in middle of inside switch goes out. Then it comes back on. Any thoughts? I'm hoping just a loose wire somewhere. If not then control panel looks like good way to go. TIA.
Another person commented last week with a similar problem of intermittent power failure. It turned out to be a bad transformer in the power module. Unfortunately, from both a waste and cost perspective, the power module is only sold as part of the control panel assembly. The good news is that other person fixed his door opener by replacing the control panel.
Muchas gracias mi garage tiene El mismo problema voy ordenar El Circuit board
¡Usted es bienvenido! ¡La mejor de las suertes para usted con la reparación! ¡Gracias por su comentario!
Good to know thanksalso are these logic boards interchangeable with the newer units that look the same jost curious
Kevin Naderi not sure about interchangeability but I would be willing to bet there is more than one version (part number) that will work. A local garage door company might be able to cross reference and sell you a compatible part.
Thanks a lot for the Video . It is exactly the same garage opener tajt I have and I have a similar problem. Looks like a bad contact in the boards or a problem with the STOP. Becaseu the light are off but if I hit the motor with a stick it come on and some times when it is closing or opening with the shacking that the motor has it get disconnected and off. What do you think?
Sounds like a loose connection somewhere. I would start by checking the plug in the outlet and make sure it has a tight fit. Then I would open it up like it did in the video to pull the control board off and then reseat the connectors. Maybe even bend the pins just a little so the connectors connect well. If that doesn’t fix it then there might be loose components or a bad solder joint on the board somewhere. See my “No Cell Power” video for an example of fixing a bad solder joint. Check where the power line comes in as well. Always make sure to disconnect the power when working on your equipment and avoid capacitors that may have energy stored in them even with the power disconnected!
Hope you get it fixed!
I ordered a new logic board for my opener that was not working, it was a newer version with the M after the part number. When I hooked it all up there seemed to be no power. Even though when I reinstalled the old one, there was power. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Great video, thank you.
Hi Bobby,
Hard to say but if you will provide both part numbers I will look it up and see what I can find out for you. You can post info here or email text and/or photos to me at garagedoor@fiveable.com .
Thanks,
Tom
AKA FiveAble
Nice job on replacement but lacks any troubleshooting
Great video. Also, you need to have a door tech out to inspect your door, because I can tell something is wrong with it
Thanks for your comment. What do you think is wrong with it? I have been a bit concerned with the chain slapping a little but I can't take more slack out without making it too tight.
@@fiveable It's either binding somewhere, or there is an issue with the springs, or the opener is bad. The reason I say something is wrong with it, is because in order for the door to close, you had to turn the close force all the way to 9. That's a huge red flag. that's maxed out, and considering that it still reversed off an object on the ground, that's pushing the opener to it's limit. If something were to happen, where you needed more force, you can't add anymore force.
Liftmaster1280 That’s really good info. The fact that I had to replace the gears within the last year might also be a clue. My wife and I bought this house 3 years ago and as far as we know it’s the original opener for the house. No idea if the springs have ever been replaced. I still have my winding bars from when I changed the springs on the garage door at my old house. Maybe the springs just need a little more/less tension. I will definitely look into that. Thank you for your comments!!!
You’re welcome
Great video! We have the same issue: the lights and the door don't work. But the "learn" button flashes a slow yellow. Do you think it could still be the same issue? We did have lightening strike which impacted other things in the house, too :(
Not sure what that particular light code means, but you can probably find a PDF copy of the manual for your specific model on the support site. If you send me your opener details, make and model number, I will look the code up for you.
support.chamberlaingroup.com
Great video.
Question: Instead going up and down on the ladder to adjust operation ... why didn't you stay on the ladder and
use the remote while making your adjustments.
I try to avoid EXTRA up-and-down exercise whenever possible😂
Good point! I probably couldn’t locate the remote at the time. I programmed the garage door opener button in my car to open the door, so I rarely need the clip on remote.
@@fiveable
That makes sense.
I had to laugh at myself after reading the "pearl of wisdom" I came up with.
To tell the truth, I couldn't even figure out how to program my (built-in) car remote ...
never mind the program adjustments on the overhead opener!
I have to salute YOU and PEOPLE LIKE YOU who always seem able to figure these things out ...
making it possible for US to do our own repairs and adjustments on whatever it is in
question at the time.
Thank you sir for being willing, and MORE INPORTANTLY ABLE, to pass on your knowledge to
people like me ... which instills a lot of faith in us. 👍🏻👍🏻
My LiftMaster remotes were only working if I was right up against the garage door. I have no LEDs. So I decided to replace the control board. I found your video extremely helpful! However I’m still having the same issue. I also replaced the remotes which didn’t solve the problem. Do you have any suggestions? Thank you so much.
Did you leave the antenna wire hanging down away from the housing? I leave mine hanging straight down away from the metal housing and it works fine. If that position doesn’t work for you then try adding some length to the antenna wire. There are some videos by other RUclipsrs showing how (search: garage door opener antenna extension). Hope you figure it out soon!
Thank you for posting on how to troubleshoot and repair the Chamberlain garage door opener. My unit stopped working today and I've been searching how to repair it, or purchase a new unit. After reviewing your video, I couldn't believe my search was over. I'm experiencing the exact same problem and believe replacing the controller will fix my problem. Do you have the link and description of the replacement part? I couldn't find it on the Chamberlain website. Thanks
Look on the label of your unit for part and serial numbers. Then search Amazon or Ebay for Chamberlain and put the part number in the search as well. Some boards were replaced with new part numbers. Usually the vendors will list a cross reference table of part numbers that the new unit replaces and is compatible with. Even if they look the same it is important to make sure the new board is correct and designed to replace your old one. Some local garage door companies might sell parts over the counter and can help you and sell parts. That being said, recently I called a local company I have gotten parts from before and they weren’t as helpful as they used to be.
@@fiveableThanks again Sir. Item is now on order. God Bless.
Your video was very thorough. I installed this with no issues. But I think there may be an issue with the sensors if you have any experience replacing those please let me know.
Were the sensors working before the board replacement?
Before the lightening took out the power supply, yes they were working before that. I have to hold down the (hard wired) button for it to close. Maybe I did something wrong...?
Did you take a photo of the wiring before taking it apart? I would check the wiring. Might be one of the connections isn’t wuite right. Also sometimes the eyes get knocked out of line and need to be adjusted. Could be that the eyes got zapped too but I would check wiring first.
Hi Natalie. Did you get your door working? Funny you asked about having to hold the button the whole time the door is closing. That just happened to me today. In my case one of the wires to the sensor had broken. I repaired the connection by stripping more of the wire that had broken and reconnected it. It’s working fine now. After reconnecting the wire the led lights on the side of the sensors lit back up. Your sensors probably have led lights on the side as well. I believe they light up green or at least one of them does when properly aligned. Hope this helps!
@@fiveable I am still having to hold down the button only to close the door, I can open the door with no issues. It is weird. I am going to look more into it this weekend to see if I can figure it out. I will update you if I figure out the issue.
Mine went dead too been down since February of this year bout time I get a new controller
Hi Jim, I’m sure it will be nice to have it working again after so long. Best of luck with it! Thanks for commenting!
Thanks for the video.Can you post the Amazon link to the unit you purchased?
Sorry, I ordered it over 3 years ago and can’t find the link now. You should be able to search my model and party number. Flip the back light cover and look for some numbers. Sometimes the part numbers change. Just make sure to check in the description to make sure the new part is a compatible part for your model & part number.
@@fiveable thank you
The opener is making contact to the garage door opener and it opens and closes the door in the summer, but not when it gets below 50°. I've turned the force screws and the just keep spinning. I've lubricated everything. It will open with the wall switches. It's from 1978 superglue
Super glide. I've also sprayed air on the electronics.
That’s a weird one! On a side note, I had a car that the rear hatch wouldn’t engage when it was cold outside. It funny what kind of problems come up with seasonal change in temperature. I probably wouldn’t have messed with the force screws in this situation especially since the wall switch works. Are you using a little clip on remote or one built-in to your vehicle? If it’s the clip on style maybe the battery isn’t making good contact when it’s cold? I think the opener will blink one the back near the programming switch when it’s receiving a signal. You might check the little led indicator light while the button is pressed. I recently fixed battery powered desk clock, one with arms, that would work perfectly for about a week at a time. I finally got tired of setting the time and took it apart. I found a place internally where the metal contacts were making contact but just barely. I bent the piece of metal a little bit and snapped it all back together. The clock has been working perfectly since then. That was about 8 months ago.
@@fiveable the remote is on the clip and normally attached to the visor. Since it's 80° today, it's working. One of the force screws I did tighten to the max but it had no effect on the operation of the door, so far. I've never seen any lights blinking on the remote or the unit. When I had the cover off I saw and heard the electric click area but just because it's sparked didn't mean it made the door function up or down. The chain would just budge. Click, budge, click, budge. Its frustrating because we need that door to work more in the winter than the summer.
Ok so you think the unit still tries to work with the remote when it is cold, but it doesn’t open. So the remote isn’t in the problem. How about lubrication in track, wheels, chain and gears inside? Maybe grease is hardening up and making the opener have work too hard? To the point it stops. You mentioned super lube. Maybe there are a few missed spots that still need lube?
Did you say this is an annual seasonal problem? If so I’m assuming both springs are ok. Do they look ok? Just a guess here but maybe if only one spring has broken it’s too much work when lubrication is cold and stiffens up?
@@fiveable I sprayed everything I could see with a garage door lube. I did see a few tan chunks on the chain of what I presume to be WD40. I sprayed that on a few years ago before I knew better. I'll check for more tomorrow.
how did you determine it was not a faulty motor thks
Because it wasn’t doing anything including no lights. What is yours doing? Sometimes the plastic gears inside go bad and need replacing. In that case it sounds like the motor is spinning but the door doesn’t move.
Hi I have the same brand garage opener and idk why the learning light keep blinking.
The blinking is probably an error code indicating you need to do something like check the door sensor alignment or wiring to sensors.
Do these have fuses? I was plugging in a new bulb and it arced and no longer works. It tripped a breaker and it has been reset but still nothing.
I don’t think there are any replaceable fuses inside. Try checking the outlet for power. If there is a GFI outlet (one with the little breaker buttons on it) on the circuit it could have tripped that as well as the main breaker. If you don’t have an outlet tester you can plug something like a usb adapter in the outlet and see if your phone will charge. If the outlet is dead and doesn’t have the GFI reset button look for other outlets nearby that are possibly on the same circuit. GFIs can trip anywhere on the circuit even if the device that caused the problem is plugged into a different outlet on the same loop.
you still have the other board? my remotes are not working!?
I still have the dead board. Have you tried reprogramming the remotes?
Where are you folks finding the replacement contol panel/logic board? And how much?
Trying to see if I just need to buy a new opener.
I got mine from Amazon but they were also available through a local garage door company that sold parts.
@@fiveable Thank you for the info. I've been checking out Amazon and just the Internet in general for the logic board. The numbers on mine are 41A5463 . I can find them but they are 41A5483.
Yes I will need to call Chamberlain direct to make sure which one works
Glad to help! Yes, I think there are some part numbers that are interchangeable or replace older ones. Best to call first like you mentioned.
How did you determine it was the board? You dont say how you determined it was the board in this video.
It has been a while. I know I checked to see if I had power at the outlet. It was pretty obvious the board or power supply module was bad because it wasn’t doing anything at all. No response from hardwired button, light bulbs or even the LED indicator lights used for programming. I might have put a multimeter on it inside to see if there was any DC voltage coming out of the power supply module but I don’t think I bothered with that. I do remember searching all over for the power supply module because I was pretty sure that was the issue. I found that LiftMaster doesn’t sell the power module separately so I had to buy the whole board assembly. The toughest part was making absolutely sure I was getting a compatible board based on my part number since there are a lot of variations. If you are shopping for a replacement board make sure to check the part number compatibility. I think part of it has to do with which version of remotes work with it. It has been a few years now and it’s still working great. I even added the WYZE camera and garage door controller so I can operate the door via an app.
I hope you get your door working again soon!
Hi so informative but my remote opens but doesn’t close unless I get out and do it from inside the garage. This is why I never park in the garage unless it storms . It opens and closes from the button inside and the batteries are correct
What should I try and do ?
Is the little wire antenna hanging down? If it is up against the metal box it might not be able to pick up the signal from far away. Also, someone mentioned that LED bulbs can cause problems. I haven’t had a problem with the LED bulbs I’m using but some brands might create interference.
That's your photo sensors. Point them at each other and wipe off the lenses. You should see both LEDs lit. If not then there is a problem with the sensor itself or wiring. Not hard to replace.
FYI- Do not use LED bulbs in operator. I won't go into the why but after working on them for almost 30 years, I know them inside and out. LED's can cause major problems , so use a 60 or 75 watt standard bulb.
Hi Linny. Thanks for the information!
LEDs are fine .as long as they don't screw up your remotes...the Topaz LEDs are a definite no..
@@skidmoro9642 What kind of "the glass won't break unless it breaks", way of thinking is that?
Its only okay if you are willing to take a chance on messing up your operator.
LEDs may not cause an issue to every operator, but they do cause issues on many of them.
put in a led if you want ...if your remotes don't work , take it out ...simple..led won't "mess up" your op... just make your remotes not work ...tech since "93
I just accidentally knocked a box into my light bulb and broke it... Now my opener is dead
How did you know the controller board was the problem?
From what I remember the door opener wasn’t responding at all. I tired the wired button on the wall but it wouldn’t trigger the door opener so I knew it wasn’t a wireless remote problem. Next I checked the motor unit and nothing worked not reven the lights. Next I checked to make sure there was power coming from the outlet in the ceiling that the opener was plugged into. I wanted to make sure a circuit breaker hadn’t tripped. I pulled the opener plug out and plugged in one of those little AC wiring/GFI testers and it showed power. If you don’t have a tester(~$5 at hardware store) you can use something like your AC phone charger, a hair dryer or a small lamp to see if the outlet is providing power. I found the outlet was fine and providing power. I think I also tried to check to see if just the internal power supply was feeding power to the controller board but that required working with a multimeter on hot and exposed power conductors which is dangerous for someone who is inexperienced and I DO NOT RECOMMEND DOING THAT. (Especially up on a ladder!) The power supply module was ok but it wouldn’t have mattered anyway because it comes as part of the controller board assembly. Keep in mind when looking for a new logic/controller board that you really need to get the same board so it has all the same connections and uses same frequencies and security system as your old controllers. There should be a model/part number on the unit somewhere that you can use to find the correct replacement. If you get stuck on what part to order I have found that my local garage door company is very helpful to me even as a DIYer. Sometimes I go to them first if I need a part ASAP and don’t mind spending a few extra $$ on a part.
@@fiveable Mine seems to be dead as well. I don't know much about testing circuits, and since the unit is pretty old, I'll probably replace the whole thing if a new one is compatible with my hardware. I switched wall buttons and verifed that it opened the other door. Sensors seem okay as far as I can tell. It just died some time during the day.
👌
PS: New openers have force adj. built in .
So what's the most common root cause of failure on these control bds?
Not sure. Might be a capacitor or something simple to replace. I saved my dead one but never got around to trying to repair it. I think someone mentioned fixing their board within the last year. I’ll go look right now and see if I can find it for you.
I found the comment. Here it is:
“My Liftmaster remote stopped working when the lights were on. The opener was so old that they discontinued making the logic board. I chose to replace all the electrolytic capacitors on the logic board and now all is well.”
Nice video, just can’t get over he look like Bill Dauterive from king of the hill
how did you know it wasn't just the capacitor?
It has been a while so don't remember exactly how I came to the conclusion I did. I'm sure I looked for bad components at the time. Fortunately, I still have the old board and I just looked at again. There are 4 capacitors on the power supply board and 6 on the logic board. They all look good, no splits or leaks. I also looked at the small diodes, chips, and relays for burned spots. Nothing looks bad. My guess is a winding in the transformer might have burned out and caused loss of output. I had a similar problem with a small transformer in my HVAC system. It would burn out every year, or two, until I replaced it with a transformer by a different manufacturer. Anyway, whatever the cause I found I couldn't buy just the power supply module without buying the whole back panel assembly. I think my wife was eager to park in the garage again so I'm sure that was a factor in my decision to go ahead and buy the whole assembly and not repair the board itself.
Thanks for watching and commenting! Please like if you found the video it helpful!
Price on those boards are too high these days, doesn't make sense to replace when they're 2/3 the price if a new opener. Even used ones on Ebay are 50 bucks, I can't see doing that either.
Maybe so. The video is over 4 years old now. You can probably get a wifi enabled opener, with camera, for what the one in the video originally cost 15+ years ago.
Thanks my case was the power 😅
Thats a rather light weight door. Mine is a 16x7 all wood door and weights about 3 times as much. Im more concerned walking under a door in motion becuse if a torsion spring breaks its 900 lbs can come crashing down on your head or back of the neck. This would kill a pet of child maybe even an adult.
You need to oil your torsion springs becuse they can bind and break and they are not cheap to have replaced, thats not a diy job dont do it, you can get killed.
Hire a local garage door shop to come service it. Im a diehard do it myself kind of guy and I won't mess with torsion springs. Make sure they change the cables the same time the springs get changed, also inspect the cables for wear, these can snap chances are they do the doors closed.
Never drive or walk under a moving door.
And dont let you kids do it either.
Thanks for your comment and the advice about the springs and staying clear of moving doors. I have had torsion springs snap. Usually happens on one side at a time and even the light weight doors are heavy without the springs to balance them out. Most people don’t realize the springs are only rated for a certain number of cycles before they break and it’s a matter of when, not if, they are going to break.
In the past, I have replaced torsion springs myself. Winding the springs for a lightweight door was scary enough. I’m sure it’s even more dangerous on heavy doors since they have to do more lifting. From my own experience, I agree that replacing torsion springs is absolutely dangerous and high risk. It’s one of those jobs that is best left up to a pro!
Got a questions? My liftmaster powers comes on and off. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. Do you know by any chance what could be wrong? I have power to outlet and everything. I'm guessing it might be the same problems as your but not to sure. Please help. Thank you. Just sub.
Hi. Thank you for the sub. I just found your message. Please explain you mean by it powers on and off? Does the whole thing lose power or do the lights blink on and off?
If the lights are blinking on and off that usually means either something is in the way of the eyes on either side of the door near the ground, they have been knocked out of alignment little, or maybe a connection to the eye has been pulled loose or broken.
@@fiveable The whole unit losses power and it die. When I tap the unit it would sometimes comes on and sometimes it does (power). If it does come on it will work then I would close it and the power die. Do you think it could be the capacitor.
Have you opened it up by removing the control board like I did in the video?
Unplug the LiftMaster unit from house power first!!! Don’t touch things like capacitor leads with bare hands. Capacitors can contain dangerous levels of residual power even after house power has been disconnected for a while!!! All work is at your own risk!!!
Maybe there is loose connection or you might see a clue like a burned connection or a leaking capacitor. The power supply is a separate module next to the logic board. It could be failing. I would also check where the power cord connects inside the LiftMaster. If I remember correctly the cord has slide on spade connectors to the upper right looking in from the back. Maybe one connector is just loose enough to cause a problem. Let me know what you find.
@@fiveable Thank you. I will keep you updated. I'm not home now so I can't go and work on it until in a week or so. Any other information would be really appreciated if you have any others things in mind. Thank you very much!! I will let you know.
I think I tried my ducking circuit board!
Oh no! That’s not good.
Something wrong with this
Yeah inflation , mine was $170 now in 2024 . Not $79😮
Wow the parts have really gone up! Might be time to spring for a completely new unit with wifi and maybe even a camera!
@@fiveable still thank you thank you ! Video was soo helpful and still cheaper then a repair man
I’m glad you were able to repair your door opener and save some hard earned money in spite of inflation. Thank you for letting me know you found my video helpful. I really do appreciate it! 😊
I’m so 😊😅😅😊😊😊
Thank you
Hope it helped! Thank you for commenting!