Mt. Whitney | Climbing the Mountaineer's Route
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- Опубликовано: 18 ноя 2023
- 11 months after first attempting this route, I'm back to try again! This alternative route to the main Mt. Whitney trail gains ~1000ft per mile across 6 miles. The crux of hike culminates in 400ft of Class 4/5 terrain, which was covered in an ice waterfall. September 13th, 2023.
An experienced mountaineer and ultra runner died on the "easy" walk off only two months ago. Off-duty SAR members went through the easy walk off and explained how dangerous it currently is. Nov. 1st Report:
"Last 400 had sections of thick solid ice surrounded by rock and rime ice. Did not attempt the class 4/5 section from the notch but did the traverse as it appeared to be the safest route. First section of the traverse was rime ice, extremely exposed and NOT EASILY CROSSED. This is a no fall zone!! Crampons and two ice tools are absolutely required. There is not much suitable ice or snow for screws/protection. We took photos in the couloir and the traverse where we were safe to do so. We don’t have photos of the most exposed and dangerous sections. Our group has climbed Rainier 5 times and compares the mountaineers route to be similar to the Kautz route for similar exposure. Both members of the group are also on a search and rescue team with extensive training and experience in high angle alpine situations. "
Did you sub?
I like your sense of adventure going for this. It seems on this day everyone you came across including yourself were attempting this without the right gear. Those people you passed carrying small sticks and microspikes on their feet, yeah thats not enough for this. People die on this route all the time. go get yourself the basic gear, (crampons and ice axe, helmet) and learn how to use it. Don't wear cotton and be prepared to spend the night if necessary, carry an emergency bivvy. Wear a climbing helmet in the MR, rock fall is almost guaranteed in there. You can easily do this safely, hell It's impressive how far you made it in those sneakers. Get the right gear and you will be amazed at how much easier it will be on you.
some tips for anyone heading up this way, if you have a garmin watch the whole trail will be on the map, it's easy to lose the trail, especially from lower boy scout on. Use the red line on the garmin and it will take you on the right track. The final 400 can be climbed on the dry rock to the left, you don't have to go on the ice, be extremly careful on the final 400. If you fall here you will probably not survive.
Again I want to say Im impressed with what you did, pretty ballsy tbh. next time with a little better gear and you will have it for sure.
Awe, you're awesome. Thanks for the thoughtful comment. Def. in the learning phase now. Need to invest in some proper gear and try again. Thanks for being the two ends and middle of a fine human being. And yes, should have stuck to the rocks on the left, that was a silly miscalculation in the moment. Appreciate ya!
Do not respect this MFin’ dumbass for going up there in such a cavalier and unprepared manner. Hes gonna get someone killed with his utter disregard for safety.
Right. I did this in late Sept 2006, and the right side of the 400 was ice. The left side was a fairly easy scramble for me a 49 year old, non-climber.
@@aliensoup2420 The final 400 is steep, but there are non-technical routes on rock. On snow and ice, a fall there kills people.
This is wild - it’s like someone took all of the “what not to do” tropes and put it in a satirical film. Jeans and tennis shoes on the mountaineers route???
Wild - you not only endangered your own life, but those around you and the SAR teams that would have had to drag your jean-clad butt off the mountain.
This is a great WHAT NOT TO DO video. Those gentlemen that told you to turn around SAVED YOUR LIFE!
I think your right. Nobody do this! Do you own research - this is not a tutorial - it's the anti-tutorial. Will be better prepared next time.
@@iFly_iCrash Respect for your attitude. I thought about this for days after seeing it. I hope you enjoy future safe adventures.
Points for effort!!!
Love the Edward Scissor Hands score :)
Beautiful photography on an awesome day. Thx
I just read some comments below and FYI you definitely need mountaineering boots, crampon and ice axe. I have a similar story as yours on mt Whitney but on the other side (the much easier normal hiking route) on Nov. 05 this year. We climbed to the snow field right before the trail crest (after completing the 99 switchbacks) and it was hard ice. Neither my wife or me expected this since in our mind this mountain is just a simple hiking up. Even it was not as steep as the mountaineering route but it is definitely a no fall zone. Many ppl crossed without ice axe and crampon that day though but we didn't feel comfortable passing it without ice axe and crampon so had to turn around. It sucks we flied all the way from NJ for this climb.
Good for you to make the hard, but smart decision not tempt fate!
I like that you did this route in jeans and running shoes. Respect.
haha yeah time to invest in some proper gear
Hey I'm wanting to get into Moutaineering. How long have you been doing it ? Are you looking for a partner for climbing more technical peaks? lmk
What dates did you go? I am headed over 11/30 to the MR.
This was Sep 13rd, 2023. That's exciting! I'ld love to learn about the gear you use - are you going to post a vid?
I usually don’t but I might open up my channel with this one. I’ll put a gear segment in there. You made me nervous with the trail runners. I think I will be ice climbing the final 400. My specialty. Enjoyed this one you put out. Captions were a nice add.
@@montezinsurance6393 Sweet! Just upgraded to some proper hiking shoes today ;). Will be back to do this one by the book.
People, do not climb steep snow/ice in tennis shoes.
Tips for climbers on this route. As you leave Iceberg, DO NOT GO UP THE FIRST PART OF THE CHUTE. Scramble up the rocks to the left of the chute. They rejoin the chute half way up. The lower chute is a garbage route. The rocks to the left are almost entirely class 2-3 - maybe a few feet of 3. It is much cleaner than the lower chute. The upper half of the chute is much less trouble.
Yup. Thats what I did. I knew nothing about climbing, but the rocky slope on the left just appeared easier. I ran into a dead end once and had to turn around to find a clearer route, but it was pretty basic. The scree field just below the top was the only difficulty. The view at 13:21 is the route I took. Mostly all solid rock.
No helmets on anyone in this video.
Kicking down all of those rocks is not cool. People get hurt and killed from that.
Good point. No one was below me, but thats fair.
How do you not dislodge loose rocks on scree slope? Great Video!
Those are not scree slopes . Even if they were, you do it by being very careful. I've nerely been killed from people being negligent like that
I had a rock coming for my head on avalanche gulch but the people above me yelled rock saving my life
Never intentionally kick down rocks while mountaineering. Be careful on loose scree/small talus as you will dislodge something at times, but avoid significant slumps of rock. This is easily done with careful foot placement.