Thank you for sharing your extensive knowledge. Your explanations are so clear and help take the huge frustration away from my attempts to make clothes that actually fit.
Thank you for this very easy to follow tutorial I wondered if you have one that shows us when the cup difference is 3 cups larger. I have a customer that has an E cup and the pattern is a B cup?
Thank you!!! I am really hyperventilating a little over your final method!! I'm using this to do an SBA while not wanting to disturb my armhole/shoulder/upper-chest fit. Crossing my fingers it works!
Thank you for this FBA methods that are new for me and very interesting because they don't add width at the waist. I would like to know how would make a FBA on a french dart (on a shift dress) please.
Thank you that was lovely and clear. I think the third adjustment will work for me as I am long in the body. I can then see if I need further length and make a further adjustment for that at the lengthen and shorten line on my commercial pattern if necessary. I usually find the bust point is way too high compared to my body so presume I would do the FBA first and then tissue fit to see if I need to move the bust point afterwards. Is that the right way round to do it please?
Hi Hazel, in this case I recommend you don't remove from the waist at all. leave the added measurement to the width of the front. Removing it from the side seam will create a dragline that points to the bust from the waist point.
Once again thank you for your quick response it is fantastic that can communicate from such a distance (I am in the UK) and get my answers so promptly. I have viewed this video and the side seam dart one will be the best for my project. The only other query I have is that as I only have a French dart which obviously is at the side seam and there isn’t another dart at the waist, I cannot absorb the extra width created at center front by widening a waist dart, as I don’t have one, so do I just have to accept this little extra width or can I remove it from the waist side seam without distorting anything? Hope that sounds clear.
I've just found this video and was interested in what you said about the second method of adjusting for a lower bust apex. My apex has always been lower than drafted on standard patterns (when the only ones you could buy were the big 4), so I have always had to lower bust darts. Now I'm much older my bust apex is even lower than when I was young. We fortunately now have patterns that will include a full bust front piece as well as a standard piece so that is great for me (and ones I tend to choose so that I don't have to do a standard FBA; I'm a D cup). However, the 'big 4' generally still draft for a B cup and therefore I need to do a FBA as a matter of course. My question is, could you incorporate both adjustments you have shown, the FBA and then the moving of the apex? My patterns often resemble a jigsaw puzzle by the time I've finished and have more tape than paper!. Thank you
You can definitely move the apex if it's needed. The rule with fitting is fit your body as it is so that all the fitting elements are in the correct place for you, it's a process which can be very involved for some but the ultimate goals is a pleasing fit regardless of the number adjustments you may need.
Thank you! I appreciate such a quick answer. If I could please ask one more question? I would like to help a friend do a FBA to the pattern NewLook 6430. It's a one piece (front) patten sheath dress with a side dart and a waist dart going in both directions Bodice/skirt. I can use the above method with the side dart method even if it's a full dress with no waist seam correct? Again thank you for any help
Hi, I wonder if you can help me. I would like to know how to adjust the apex point from a pattern which is too high for me, in a princess line. My apex is 3" lower than the pattern apex. I have been struggling to try and work out how to do it. I may also need a FBA as my bust is 44". I was considering grading the sizes after (hopefully) moving the bust apex. But I'm not sure if this is a better idea, or whether to do a FBA instead. I am taking my high bust measurement as a starting point which is 40". Then either grading it, or doing a FBA. Have you any suggestions how I should go about it? Many thanks.
Can you please explain how it is that you come up with where in the armhole you decide to draw the cut line to the apex AND why on the other illustration for a side dart the cut line is under the armhole not in the arm hole. and how far down on the side seam do you draw the cut line to the apex? Thank you
The position of the slash line within the armhole isn't important It just has to be somewhere within the deepest part of the curve. Put the slash line here if you have some gaping in your front armhole caused by a needed bust adjustment. Drawing the slash line under the armhole is just another method of making the same bust adjustment. Put the slash line in this position if you front armhole is fitting well but you still need a bust adjustment. The slash line at the side seam should be positioned at bust level-usually 1" below the base of the armhole.
Hi Elizabeth! Regardless of the position of the dart, the slash line will go through the center of it. When a garment has only one dart at the waist is means that the bust dart has been rotated into the waist dart, so that particular dart includes fitting for the bust and the waist. To make the bust adjustment easier you can simply rotate the dart to either the shoulder or the side seam, make the bust adjustment, then rotate it back. If the bust adjustment is large you may get better fitting by splitting the dart into two.
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Thank you for sharing your extensive knowledge. Your explanations are so clear and help take the huge frustration away from my attempts to make clothes that actually fit.
Thank you for this very easy to follow tutorial
I wondered if you have one that shows us when the cup difference is 3 cups larger.
I have a customer that has an E cup and the pattern is a B cup?
Thank you!!! I am really hyperventilating a little over your final method!! I'm using this to do an SBA while not wanting to disturb my armhole/shoulder/upper-chest fit. Crossing my fingers it works!
Excellent, I will defiantly try these out.
Amazing presentation. Always remember to point the new darts to the apex
Thank you for this FBA methods that are new for me and very interesting because they don't add width at the waist. I would like to know how would make a FBA on a french dart (on a shift dress) please.
Hi Natacha, the method is exactly the same regardless of dart type.
Very much clear now..thank u
Thank you that really helps I will try that.
Thank you that was lovely and clear. I think the third adjustment will work for me as I am long in the body. I can then see if I need further length and make a further adjustment for that at the lengthen and shorten line on my commercial pattern if necessary. I usually find the bust point is way too high compared to my body so presume I would do the FBA first and then tissue fit to see if I need to move the bust point afterwards. Is that the right way round to do it please?
yes, that's right.
Thank you that was a quick response. What if I don’t have a waist dart to take in the excess please.
Hi Hazel, in this case I recommend you don't remove from the waist at all. leave the added measurement to the width of the front. Removing it from the side seam will create a dragline that points to the bust from the waist point.
Once again thank you for your quick response it is fantastic that can communicate from such a distance (I am in the UK) and get my answers so promptly. I have viewed this video and the side seam dart one will be the best for my project. The only other query I have is that as I only have a French dart which obviously is at the side seam and there isn’t another dart at the waist, I cannot absorb the extra width created at center front by widening a waist dart, as I don’t have one, so do I just have to accept this little extra width or can I remove it from the waist side seam without distorting anything? Hope that sounds clear.
I've just found this video and was interested in what you said about the second method of adjusting for a lower bust apex. My apex has always been lower than drafted on standard patterns (when the only ones you could buy were the big 4), so I have always had to lower bust darts. Now I'm much older my bust apex is even lower than when I was young. We fortunately now have patterns that will include a full bust front piece as well as a standard piece so that is great for me (and ones I tend to choose so that I don't have to do a standard FBA; I'm a D cup). However, the 'big 4' generally still draft for a B cup and therefore I need to do a FBA as a matter of course. My question is, could you incorporate both adjustments you have shown, the FBA and then the moving of the apex? My patterns often resemble a jigsaw puzzle by the time I've finished and have more tape than paper!. Thank you
You can definitely move the apex if it's needed. The rule with fitting is fit your body as it is so that all the fitting elements are in the correct place for you, it's a process which can be very involved for some but the ultimate goals is a pleasing fit regardless of the number adjustments you may need.
Thank you! I appreciate such a quick answer. If I could please ask one more question? I would like to help a friend do a FBA to the pattern NewLook 6430. It's a one piece (front) patten sheath dress with a side dart and a waist dart going in both directions Bodice/skirt. I can use the above method with the side dart method even if it's a full dress with no waist seam correct? Again thank you for any help
Hi, I wonder if you can help me. I would like to know how to adjust the apex point from a pattern which is too high for me, in a princess line. My apex is 3" lower than the pattern apex. I have been struggling to try and work out how to do it. I may also need a FBA as my bust is 44". I was considering grading the sizes after (hopefully) moving the bust apex. But I'm not sure if this is a better idea, or whether to do a FBA instead. I am taking my high bust measurement as a starting point which is 40". Then either grading it, or doing a FBA. Have you any suggestions how I should go about it? Many thanks.
What adjustment, if any, is done to the back after the FBA is done on the front?
There are no adjustments made to the back. The cup size adjustment is a front only adjustment.
@@AlexandraMorganInHousePatterns Thank you for the quick and helpful reply, and tutorials.
Can you please explain how it is that you come up with where in the armhole you decide to draw the cut line to the apex AND why on the other illustration for a side dart the cut line is under the armhole not in the arm hole. and how far down on the side seam do you draw the cut line to the apex? Thank you
The position of the slash line within the armhole isn't important It just has to be somewhere within the deepest part of the curve. Put the slash line here if you have some gaping in your front armhole caused by a needed bust adjustment. Drawing the slash line under the armhole is just another method of making the same bust adjustment. Put the slash line in this position if you front armhole is fitting well but you still need a bust adjustment. The slash line at the side seam should be positioned at bust level-usually 1" below the base of the armhole.
What about if there’s only a waist dart? How do we do that?
Hi Elizabeth! Regardless of the position of the dart, the slash line will go through the center of it. When a garment has only one dart at the waist is means that the bust dart has been rotated into the waist dart, so that particular dart includes fitting for the bust and the waist. To make the bust adjustment easier you can simply rotate the dart to either the shoulder or the side seam, make the bust adjustment, then rotate it back. If the bust adjustment is large you may get better fitting by splitting the dart into two.