Nice! Like the work. I work in Jade and watched this to see the technique you use. Though I will put my dremel in a vice so there is more stability from using both hands and the dremel won't move. This works for me on cutting my jade (my second favorite stone is Opal!)
Great video. Thank you so much for taking the time to share your knowledge! - I love opals. IMO they are way more beautiful than diamonds! (As an artist, light & colour is everything to me! ) But unfortunately, being on disability, I cannot afford opals, so for years, as a hobby, I tried to create a good faux opal using epoxy and various inclusions such as holographic milars etc, but it just wasnt the same. So I have been playing around with Labradorite instead. I just bought some cheap raw stones from China, and have been practicing cutting and polishing them up using my dremel and velcro sanding discs and water (from 240 grit to 1200) Unfortunately, though it is much better, it still has a dull (almost milky, in some spots) finish when you tilt it in the light. So I want to try using this technique, as I did purchase a set of diamond oil based paste a while ago, I just wasn't sure how to use it.. Do you think it would work with Labradorite? I have been experimenting with making a more opal-like pendants by using small labradorite fragments and epoxying them together so the there will be a flashes of colour from many different directions. Poor-man's (or woman's) opals! Lol. I am definitely not an lapidary expert at all, as it all started pretty-much as a bedside hobby! Lol My illness makes it difficult to stand or sit up for very long before needing a rest, so I pretty much have my "studio" at arms reach in my bedroom. 😂
That's great Alana, labradorite is actually a good material to practice on as it has a directionality to it, much like ost layered oapl. There is a "best" way to cut the rough to get the best color flash when you view the stone dead on. In your case, to get a better polish, you'll need to go further than 1200 grit. A glossy appearance will start at around 3000 grit. and at around 15,000 - 30,000 you'll get that "wet" look that is what most cutters are shooting for. they don't sell sand paper or traditional abrasives in that grit, so this is when cerium oxide, aluminum oxide or diamond pastes come in. one of the difficulties is converting "grit mesh" to microns, as finer grits are often measured in "microns" rather than grits. But here are some handy charts online, and some sellers will offer a conversion. Make sure to clean between steps.
You're welcome! And Another option is to use E6000 Epoxy. I have found that I now prefer it. It takes a while to set up, but it does not loosen in the water if I am doing any wet grinding on my genie. Then when I am done, I nca simply cut the stones off using a sharp razor blade.
I am trying to polish a stone that I shaped for a necklace for my wife. I have no idea what it is, it’s very clear and purple color and a lot softer than the quartz I was trying to carve. I don’t know the last grit I used, they were random diamond bits from harbor freight. Should I start right in with the pastes? Or should I buy a 600 diamond bit and work with that a bit first before going in with pastes? It went from looking like glass and now it’s got that foggy semi-smooth finish on it. Any help would be appreciated.
I cant say for sure, but you're likely working with fluorite. If that is the case, you can pre-polish with a medium micron diamond paste, but you may have better luck with the final polish with Alumina, Chrome Oxide, or Iron Oxide as a polishing media, which is sold at many lapidary and faceting shops, and is made into a paste using water. Some materials, just never seem to take a good polish with diamonds pastes.
Real nice! Im wondering, what process do you use to charge the felt mandrals? Do you get them moist before adding the diamond paste? Also, have you found different softnesses of the felt to affect the outcome? Just trying to get head around this process! 😁
There is a lot of experimentation here and one rule of thumb is if you ask 10 stone cutters the same question, you'll get 10 different answers, and they are all correct :) So my method may vary from others. I just do what works for me. But to answer your question: I simply smear the paste on the felt as I very slowly spin the shaft. As I feel that it is no longer getting results, I add more. The idea behind the felt is that the felt itself should not be what is polishing the stone, only the diamond grit. I like the felt to be rather dense so that it holds its shape as I push it against the stone, but just soft enough that it gives a small amount so that I can get a nice rounded and polished surface. Otherwise the stone gets this sort of sorf faceted look which is undesirable with a cabochon. Now go and buy some paste and felts and get your hands dirty!
How slow on the RPM's are we talking here? I have the Dremel 4300 and the lowest it goes is 5,000rpm. I have noticed that I am spending like 5 minutes per each stone per grit. Guess that could be why my stones are getting hotter..
For my Foredom motor I'm going about as slow as it will operate smoothly. The video is also in real time, of an actual polishing job, so you can see I'm spending about a minute per grit. I am also not applying very much pressure. The stone will get warm, but not hot.
@@akoski12 It took me some trial and error to figure out how I liked it best. There are a few other videos online that teach the same technique :) Glad I could help!
@@clab3171 Ethiopian opal is a hydrophane type opal, so it will absorb liquids. Thus it is possible that the dyes and oils in the compounds are getting into the opal and are staining it. I'd suggest reserving this process only for australian and mexican opals. The stains might only be surface deep. If you go back to the 300 or 400 grit range and re-sand the outside, it might remove the stained layer. then proceed with traditional wet sanding wheels on a genie or similar polishing machine all the way to 8000 grit (12,000 grit if you have it). At that point, that is as far as I suggest you go on an Ethiopian. Since it is hydrophane, while using the wet method, it will probably temporarily turn the opal clear. then when it drys out, it will regain its original fire and translucency. Hope that helps, and good luck!
@@earthartgems awesome thank you very much for the quick reply!! It makes sense that it absorbed into it, that's what It looks like on the outer layer of the opals. Will give it a shot and let you know how it worked out! Do you think just going up to the 8000 or 12000 would be enough to polish it or would using a cerium oxide to finish it work better.
@@clab3171 Cerium oxide will help to get a better polish, It's just a matter of making sure it doesn't stain it white. I've never tried cerium on Ethiopian before.
Nice!
Like the work.
I work in Jade and watched this to see the technique you use. Though I will put my dremel in a vice so there is more stability from using both hands and the dremel won't move. This works for me on cutting my jade (my second favorite stone is Opal!)
Thanks Mark! Glad it helps!
Great video. Thank you so much for taking the time to share your knowledge! - I love opals. IMO they are way more beautiful than diamonds! (As an artist, light & colour is everything to me! ) But unfortunately, being on disability, I cannot afford opals, so for years, as a hobby, I tried to create a good faux opal using epoxy and various inclusions such as holographic milars etc, but it just wasnt the same. So I have been playing around with Labradorite instead. I just bought some cheap raw stones from China, and have been practicing cutting and polishing them up using my dremel and velcro sanding discs and water (from 240 grit to 1200) Unfortunately, though it is much better, it still has a dull (almost milky, in some spots) finish when you tilt it in the light. So I want to try using this technique, as I did purchase a set of diamond oil based paste a while ago, I just wasn't sure how to use it.. Do you think it would work with Labradorite?
I have been experimenting with making a more opal-like pendants by using small labradorite fragments and epoxying them together so the there will be a flashes of colour from many different directions. Poor-man's (or woman's) opals! Lol.
I am definitely not an lapidary expert at all, as it all started pretty-much as a bedside hobby! Lol My illness makes it difficult to stand or sit up for very long before needing a rest, so I pretty much have my "studio" at arms reach in my bedroom. 😂
That's great Alana, labradorite is actually a good material to practice on as it has a directionality to it, much like ost layered oapl. There is a "best" way to cut the rough to get the best color flash when you view the stone dead on. In your case, to get a better polish, you'll need to go further than 1200 grit. A glossy appearance will start at around 3000 grit. and at around 15,000 - 30,000 you'll get that "wet" look that is what most cutters are shooting for. they don't sell sand paper or traditional abrasives in that grit, so this is when cerium oxide, aluminum oxide or diamond pastes come in. one of the difficulties is converting "grit mesh" to microns, as finer grits are often measured in "microns" rather than grits. But here are some handy charts online, and some sellers will offer a conversion. Make sure to clean between steps.
Love the idea of using Tacky glue for the dop sticks! I am going to try that- thanks!
You're welcome! And Another option is to use E6000 Epoxy. I have found that I now prefer it. It takes a while to set up, but it does not loosen in the water if I am doing any wet grinding on my genie. Then when I am done, I nca simply cut the stones off using a sharp razor blade.
Austin Moore- sweet! I've got that too! Thanks for the update!
@@UrsulaSmith any time, I am also working on a mexican fire opal polishing video, I'll post it soon :)
@@earthartgems I've been looking for any alternative, thank you!
I am trying to polish a stone that I shaped for a necklace for my wife. I have no idea what it is, it’s very clear and purple color and a lot softer than the quartz I was trying to carve. I don’t know the last grit I used, they were random diamond bits from harbor freight. Should I start right in with the pastes? Or should I buy a 600 diamond bit and work with that a bit first before going in with pastes? It went from looking like glass and now it’s got that foggy semi-smooth finish on it. Any help would be appreciated.
I cant say for sure, but you're likely working with fluorite. If that is the case, you can pre-polish with a medium micron diamond paste, but you may have better luck with the final polish with Alumina, Chrome Oxide, or Iron Oxide as a polishing media, which is sold at many lapidary and faceting shops, and is made into a paste using water. Some materials, just never seem to take a good polish with diamonds pastes.
Real nice! Im wondering, what process do you use to charge the felt mandrals? Do you get them moist before adding the diamond paste? Also, have you found different softnesses of the felt to affect the outcome? Just trying to get head around this process! 😁
There is a lot of experimentation here and one rule of thumb is if you ask 10 stone cutters the same question, you'll get 10 different answers, and they are all correct :) So my method may vary from others. I just do what works for me. But to answer your question: I simply smear the paste on the felt as I very slowly spin the shaft. As I feel that it is no longer getting results, I add more. The idea behind the felt is that the felt itself should not be what is polishing the stone, only the diamond grit. I like the felt to be rather dense so that it holds its shape as I push it against the stone, but just soft enough that it gives a small amount so that I can get a nice rounded and polished surface. Otherwise the stone gets this sort of sorf faceted look which is undesirable with a cabochon. Now go and buy some paste and felts and get your hands dirty!
Does putting them in water after negate the fact that you dry cut them to keep them out of water? 😅
Are these pastes in anyway toxic ? Like the dry particles of the paint for.pets etc?
I am not sure what the binders used in the paste are, but I do tend to wear gloves and a dust mask when doing this, just to be on the safe side.
Try replacing the felt tips with dowl wooden tips and apply the diamond paste grit on the dowl tips
The outcome is of what like Nova diamond points
Hi! Where did you but the pastes? what company are they, and how is the quality ?
I am not sure, That was over a year ago, but the quality seems to be fine. Jus search online for diamond polishing paste.
very good congratulations I come to leave my like God
سلام ممكن تعطيني جميع اسم المواد الذي استخدمتها في صقل وتلميع هذا الاحجار تحياتي صديق يمني
How slow on the RPM's are we talking here? I have the Dremel 4300 and the lowest it goes is 5,000rpm. I have noticed that I am spending like 5 minutes per each stone per grit. Guess that could be why my stones are getting hotter..
For my Foredom motor I'm going about as slow as it will operate smoothly. The video is also in real time, of an actual polishing job, so you can see I'm spending about a minute per grit. I am also not applying very much pressure. The stone will get warm, but not hot.
@@earthartgems I was definitely doing this wrong.. I knew I was going to learn so I used some pieces I dont really care a whole bunch about.
@@akoski12 It took me some trial and error to figure out how I liked it best. There are a few other videos online that teach the same technique :) Glad I could help!
My opals seemed to stain after this process except the bottoms? Any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated
What kind of opals are you polishing? And to what grit did you go to before starting the diamond grits?
@@earthartgems ethiopian opal, I used up to a 1200 then 3000 then 8000 then the whole lineup of compounds as directed
@@clab3171 Ethiopian opal is a hydrophane type opal, so it will absorb liquids. Thus it is possible that the dyes and oils in the compounds are getting into the opal and are staining it. I'd suggest reserving this process only for australian and mexican opals. The stains might only be surface deep. If you go back to the 300 or 400 grit range and re-sand the outside, it might remove the stained layer. then proceed with traditional wet sanding wheels on a genie or similar polishing machine all the way to 8000 grit (12,000 grit if you have it). At that point, that is as far as I suggest you go on an Ethiopian. Since it is hydrophane, while using the wet method, it will probably temporarily turn the opal clear. then when it drys out, it will regain its original fire and translucency. Hope that helps, and good luck!
@@earthartgems awesome thank you very much for the quick reply!! It makes sense that it absorbed into it, that's what It looks like on the outer layer of the opals. Will give it a shot and let you know how it worked out! Do you think just going up to the 8000 or 12000 would be enough to polish it or would using a cerium oxide to finish it work better.
@@clab3171 Cerium oxide will help to get a better polish, It's just a matter of making sure it doesn't stain it white. I've never tried cerium on Ethiopian before.
Muy buenas felicitaciones vengo a dejar mis pulgares arriba Dios los bendiga
It’s DIfferent I usually use cerium oxide on a felt wheel
That’s the last stage
Felt tip with cerium oxide
use a spray bottle for your water...It keeps everything clean clean clean...
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alguém fala brasileiro porai
I do not speak Brazilian, but I can use google translator to convert text. Did you have a question about something I said in the video?
what is zap?