This will sound crazy but I work in software development and the way you work is exactly what sets us up for success too. We spend time at the beginning of the job getting things straightened out as much as possible so as we reach the end we don’t have to bodge things as it is too late then. Keeping things tidy and steady as you go stops you running around like a madman.
I'm a retired plumber, and now a hobbyist woodworker, fisherman, and all around b astard with no manners :-) For me trying to understand rafters always made my brain fizzle out, so I stayed away from it. When you do it it becomes so simple to me. I think that you should be a teacher. You are a very talented young man, and a great communicator. High regards from an Englishman living in the United States, and loving it here.
Was an advance craft plumber for 51years and in the early 90s went back to college 1day and2 evenings a week at my own expense for 2 years and got my level 3 brick laying always love carpentry as well love watching your videos to learn how it's supposed to be done even that I am now retired and only do my own bits and pieces keep up the great work
@@ukconstruction Carpentry course was fully booked so Did bricklaying as use to work weekends with brother in law who had a brickie firm so thought I would get my ticket 😀
Great job as always. I know its an extra step and Robin probably won't agree with this but i attach a piece of timber (anything-a piece of plywood, as long as they are the same thickness) at each end and pull a line on top of them. This way the line cant get snagged on one or more rafter distorting the strength line. It means the line hangs down below each rafter by the thickness of the timber you attached (i usually use a piece of 18mm ply) but you are certain of a strength line to mark from
Dan... totally agree with your method, when I have to cut the plumb cut and the seat cut in situ.. what you describe is the perfect way of accurately marking with the line suspended above and transferring down, I appreciate your humbleness assuming that I would not approve but you are 100% right about the method you describe!! , your on my team bro!!!
nice video. i usually put the string line on top of the rafters. but underneath looks a better way. but i set a bevel and put it to the line to mark the plumb cut.
Thanks for using a tape rule with both metric and imperial so those of us on the other side of the pond can get a better idea of the lengths you made these. Great info, I like your method and I'll try it the next time I'm cutting in rafter tails.
Have you considered putting your saw notch on the top of the rafter and using a chalk line and pinging it to give you your mark but on the top of the rafters, it saves you going and marking each rafter individualy by hand
when you do that then plumb down from the line if there is the slightest undulation as there is with sawn timber due to bowing etc the eves do not end up dead straight
The final eaves cut needs to often be parallel to the outside brickwall and if the wall plate is not parallel on the inner skin then the soffit may not end parallel, also the eave part of The rafter can undulate due to the canterlever past the plate this can throw the plumb cut out by a few mm here and there showing in a bendy facia, the soffit does not show this small discrepancy due to the fact you never really see along the length!! Hope that helps!!
if your wall plates are not parallel every rafter must be cut different length and also the discrepancy has to show on a slating job at ridge level in the old days carpenters cut roofs from plans before houses were even built {commercial work} and stored if i am doing a private job and if builder put un plates incorrectly i take them off and redo and i charge for that time above price. all soffit work is nearly covered by the render where they meet the wall. I am carpenter 40 years and i would never do this way ( straight parallel and true to a line wall plates and cut my rafters in one shot any apprentice taught any other method is being taught incorrectly) Even with your best effort here Robin You could still end up with out of parallel soffit with a poor render job
I do enjoy your videos Robin. I have a question about this one….. how come you didn’t cut the fascia cut when you were cutting the rafters? That’s what I have done here in the US
I think we over this side of the pond tend to do it like this as we are working with brick external And this gives us the opportunity to tweak the soffit if needed as our brickies are always spot on plumb 😂😂
Hi Robin,I am in the process of replacing a 1960s property of all the timber fascias,bargeboards soffitts and gutters into upvc.After I removed the timber fascias I noticed all the rafter plumb cuts were accurately cut at 55 degrees for the 35 degree pitch but they were not cut square,it was a 16 metre run with aprox 40 rafters all cut about 15 degrees off,at first I thought the joiner was maybe a trainee learning but all 80 rafter feet were the same,could this of been done deliberately. I have seen trim carpenters back bevel timbers when scribing as it is easier to just remove the highest spot for a close fit,could this be the same method for rafters if some are slightly longer maybe they are easier to cut back if your only trimming the high spot. Wondered if you ever seen this before in your career. I enjoy you videos,very accurate work.
This was a practice as you have guessed, keeping one edge on the line and the other slightly off so the fascia will be straight. it is also because cutting the feet by hand in situ.. which is probably what they would have done in the 1960's is awkward and with a slight angle your elbow misses the previous rafter!!! nice observation Adrian
Thanks Robin,makes sense now why they cut them at an angle to avoid banging their elbows,I had to laugh though because I ducked my head between the rafters and hit my head on the next one and took a big chunk out my head.😢
I think they are Engelbert Strauss. I have a pair and they are the comfiest trousers I have ever had for work. They have a elasticated waist for those of us in the mid part of life with expanding waists 😂
I you didn’t fit the wall plates and is out of level IE the brickie did it and his outer skins also out of level or out of parallel within the cavity then cutting the seat cut on a rafter for the tail ends before install can really screw you over.
You make it look very simple Robin, but in reality, what we’re watching is a master at work!
This will sound crazy but I work in software development and the way you work is exactly what sets us up for success too. We spend time at the beginning of the job getting things straightened out as much as possible so as we reach the end we don’t have to bodge things as it is too late then. Keeping things tidy and steady as you go stops you running around like a madman.
I'm a retired plumber, and now a hobbyist woodworker, fisherman, and all around b astard with no manners :-) For me trying to understand rafters always made my brain fizzle out, so I stayed away from it. When you do it it becomes so simple to me. I think that you should be a teacher. You are a very talented young man, and a great communicator.
High regards from an Englishman living in the United States, and loving it here.
Was an advance craft plumber for 51years and in the early 90s went back to college 1day and2 evenings a week at my own expense for 2 years and got my level 3 brick laying always love carpentry as well love watching your videos to learn how it's supposed to be done even that I am now retired and only do my own bits and pieces keep up the great work
Great message!! surprising the bricklaying choice!!!! thanks for watching!!
@@ukconstruction Carpentry course was fully booked so Did bricklaying as use to work weekends with brother in law who had a brickie firm so thought I would get my ticket 😀
I’ve really enjoyed watching this little series, very informative and helpful
Great job as always. I know its an extra step and Robin probably won't agree with this but i attach a piece of timber (anything-a piece of plywood, as long as they are the same thickness) at each end and pull a line on top of them. This way the line cant get snagged on one or more rafter distorting the strength line.
It means the line hangs down below each rafter by the thickness of the timber you attached (i usually use a piece of 18mm ply) but you are certain of a strength line to mark from
Dan... totally agree with your method, when I have to cut the plumb cut and the seat cut in situ.. what you describe is the perfect way of accurately marking with the line suspended above and transferring down, I appreciate your humbleness assuming that I would not approve but you are 100% right about the method you describe!! , your on my team bro!!!
Excellent carpenter
nice video. i usually put the string line on top of the rafters. but underneath looks a better way. but i set a bevel and put it to the line to mark the plumb cut.
I ping a chaulk line on top then go along with a roofing square set to the pitch and run my cir-saw along the edge of it for the plumb cut.
Thanks for using a tape rule with both metric and imperial so those of us on the other side of the pond can get a better idea of the lengths you made these. Great info, I like your method and I'll try it the next time I'm cutting in rafter tails.
Glad the tape helps!!! thank you for watching!!
That is a fantastic piece of craftsmanship.
Thank you
Thank you for sharing youre knowledge. It was very useful when i was making mij roof for my shed. Best regards john 🇳🇱
Glad it was helpful!
Beautiful work. If I could turn back the clock I definitely would have been trained up in cut roofs.
Brilliant work as always robin
Pure Quality regards Howard from Cyprus
School has started! I ❤️ school!!
This makes me want to retrain as a joiner 😂 must be the most satisfying job in the world.
Yes, I love my job!!
Master at work. Respect Sir
fabulous Robin, many thanks
Have you considered putting your saw notch on the top of the rafter and using a chalk line and pinging it to give you your mark but on the top of the rafters, it saves you going and marking each rafter individualy by hand
when you do that then plumb down from the line if there is the slightest undulation as there is with sawn timber due to bowing etc the eves do not end up dead straight
Another great episode. Thank you.
Great video. Why didn't you incorporate the plumb cut into the template you made at the start?
The final eaves cut needs to often be parallel to the outside brickwall and if the wall plate is not parallel on the inner skin then the soffit may not end parallel, also the eave part of The rafter can undulate due to the canterlever past the plate this can throw the plumb cut out by a few mm here and there showing in a bendy facia, the soffit does not show this small discrepancy due to the fact you never really see along the length!! Hope that helps!!
if your wall plates are not parallel every rafter must be cut different length and also the discrepancy has to show on a slating job at ridge level in the old days carpenters cut roofs from plans before houses were even built {commercial work} and stored if i am doing a private job and if builder put un plates incorrectly i take them off and redo and i charge for that time above price. all soffit work is nearly covered by the render where they meet the wall. I am carpenter 40 years and i would never do this way ( straight parallel and true to a line wall plates and cut my rafters in one shot any apprentice taught any other method is being taught incorrectly) Even with your best effort here Robin You could still end up with out of parallel soffit with a poor render job
Nice job Robin
I love watching you work . I’d like you to do a dormer with a cat slide roof 👍
Great video great work
Nice edit - Bada bing, Bada boom
I do enjoy your videos Robin. I have a question about this one….. how come you didn’t cut the fascia cut when you were cutting the rafters? That’s what I have done here in the US
I think we over this side of the pond tend to do it like this as we are working with brick external
And this gives us the opportunity to tweak the soffit if needed as our brickies are always spot on plumb 😂😂
@@keithwiddows2391 thanks for that info. Looking at it from that point of view it makes total sense. 🤔
Hi Robin,I am in the process of replacing a 1960s property of all the timber fascias,bargeboards soffitts and gutters into upvc.After I removed the timber fascias I noticed all the rafter plumb cuts were accurately cut at 55 degrees for the 35 degree pitch but they were not cut square,it was a 16 metre run with aprox 40 rafters all cut about 15 degrees off,at first I thought the joiner was maybe a trainee learning but all 80 rafter feet were the same,could this of been done deliberately. I have seen trim carpenters back bevel timbers when scribing as it is easier to just remove the highest spot for a close fit,could this be the same method for rafters if some are slightly longer maybe they are easier to cut back if your only trimming the high spot.
Wondered if you ever seen this before in your career.
I enjoy you videos,very accurate work.
This was a practice as you have guessed, keeping one edge on the line and the other slightly off so the fascia will be straight. it is also because cutting the feet by hand in situ.. which is probably what they would have done in the 1960's is awkward and with a slight angle your elbow misses the previous rafter!!! nice observation Adrian
Thanks Robin,makes sense now why they cut them at an angle to avoid banging their elbows,I had to laugh though because I ducked my head between the rafters and hit my head on the next one and took a big chunk out my head.😢
ouch!!!!!!!!
Push the knob in the middle of the chalk line it stops it rotating in your hand 🔨
All looks too easy but I’d still make a mess of it, does the big lad still work with you?
He Robin have you your app up yet and your roofing square
How long in time / days did this take Robin....two / three days?
Your kecks look comfy robin where did you get them from
I think they are Engelbert Strauss. I have a pair and they are the comfiest trousers I have ever had for work. They have a elasticated waist for those of us in the mid part of life with expanding waists 😂
Yep these are indeed Strauss!!
For the maestro, it's just a walk in the park.
Who is that young chap on the bottom left near the end. ?
😊
👍
I you didn’t fit the wall plates and is out of level IE the brickie did it and his outer skins also out of level or out of parallel within the cavity then cutting the seat cut on a rafter for the tail ends before install can really screw you over.
Why not cut plump cut on the bench
Where is edd
WX
Seems a shame to cover the structure with a roof . . .