Definitely a great resource 👍 . . . . I would add Jangbricks has a video talking about it and the need to submerge the pieces to prevent a line from forming. I’m shocked that there’s a product called “Retro Bright”. I thought it was more of a technique than a product. I’ve used regular peroxide a few times and it worked.
Another thing, that might influence the result, is that polypropylene, from which those bags are made of, allows only ~80% of uv light to get through. It is much better when you directly soak the pieces in liquid and light them from above. Hydrogen peroxide solution is dirt cheap and works quite well for that purpose.
@@Tim0feyK I can literally go to my bathroom right now and see a brown bottle like I described and the label says "Hydrogen Peroxide". I live in the US if that makes a difference.
@@cee_yarr yes it is what you need. I was just trying to make a joke, eh. The only thing that matters is percentage of peroroxide, the more - the better.
That UV light in combination with the hydrogen peroxide will fasten the "whitening", bit it wil also fasten the yellowing when you shine it on new white pieces. Your brick build logo might start to turn yellow soon. Also try to keep the rare obelisk top away from it
Lightening videos, not just for Lego, seemed to be everywhere a few years back. But I was under the impression that it's often been found to be fool's gold over time, either due to discolouration coming back fairly quickly, or because it damages the plastic? I kind of feel that the best sort of experiment would come back after (say) 12 months.
4:34 wait, you mean you don't know how to solder? It's supper easy, cheap, and useful! Also I do not recommend looking at ultraviolet light directly. "Corneal damage, cataracts and macular degeneration are all possible chronic effects from UV exposure and can ultimately lead to decreased vision."
Since yellowing it caused a lot by UV light, once you get the plastic white again, you might try something like 303 Marine UV Aerospace Protectant to limit the future UV exposure.
Those are some good results! There are actually two ways that you can initiate hydrogen peroxide reaction with ABS - either with light (specifically UV light) or heat. While UV makes whole process much quicker, it does compromise plastic itself - it can become much more brittle. If you're not in a rush you could do another test with that stuff but left it in warm place overnight (or maybe until deyellowed, it make take few days, try to replenish retrobrite or keep it in sealed container).
Could you elaborate on that a bit? What is 'warm'? Would you have some source for this? I've been on the fence myself using peroxide and UV because of just that: potentially brittle pieces. Edit: video called 'Retrobrighting The True Science Behind It'
@@diatonicdelirium1743 Some that I lightened I just put in peroxide dilute in a glass lidded dish and used a very low heat on the hob. Don't know about brittleness as I didn't use any of the lightened parts in the end. Waited 18 months, came back and they were yellow.
Retro-Brite is just high concentration Hydrogen Peroxide. You can use off the shelf 3% peroxide and get similar results. Perhaps subtler results. You can also concentrate it yourself if you're up to such things. There is also cream peroxide that use used for hair dying. It's highly concentrated as well, and frequently used for Retro-Briteing stuff that would be difficult to submerge. Sunlight and heat can accelerate the process, but any UV light source will do.
Some of the LEGO-whitening videos I've seen warn that just hydrogen peroxide can have short-term whitening effects, but after some time (not sure the timescale), they end up yellower than they started. I would hope that a purpose-formulated commercial product wouldn't have that side-effect, but you might want to give your test piece some time, just to be sure.
UNWHITEN THE LEGO LOGO Use the uv to deliberately turn your white pieces yellow so you can finally build that logo the way it was designed (this would likely actually weaken the parts but for the views)
Best way is. Buy a gallon of 20% liguid hydrogen peroxide . Wrap a see trough bin in aluminum foil. Empty gallon in bin. Put a good uv light on top let it cook for a couple of hours. It tends to get warm. But that is needed to get te best result. I did this for my Old Jurassic Park toys and you get way more for less
Props for doing this test, but I think you need to wait a lot longer than a few days before bleaching the rare piece. We don't know the timescale of reyellowing but my parts were done with peroxide and a DIY UV LED box, sun or just heat, most came out great and were put in a cardboard box. 18 months later I took them out and they were yellow again. Also doing more pieces at this point and checking them at regular intervals - say weekly or biweekly - would give broader look at how the pieces are affected and if there's a variance in reyellowing rate.
This is gonna be so useful. Luckily most of my yellowed bricks are like 2x4 bricks so it’s not a big deal for me but I’m definitely gonna try this in the future.
That thumbnail is a good pretext to finally acknowledge it's a bold choice of logo to have a huge BS written on a lego brick
I mean it's all BS right?
Even though he is the least bs channel on RUclips
The thumbnail and end screen alone is worth the $7 for the UV lamp. The logo lights up perfectly.
I agree lol
The 8-Bit Guy has videos about retrobriting. One video shows multiple experiments on different techniques.
Yeah I have to look those up thanks!
Definitely a great resource 👍 . . . . I would add Jangbricks has a video talking about it and the need to submerge the pieces to prevent a line from forming.
I’m shocked that there’s a product called “Retro Bright”. I thought it was more of a technique than a product. I’ve used regular peroxide a few times and it worked.
@@bricksculptthat's what I recommended to you in the last video. $25 for a bit of peroxide sounds steep.
You shouldn't flip the light like that, intense UV can be very bad for your eyes.
I know lol I just did it for the quick part of the video. But thanks!
Another thing, that might influence the result, is that polypropylene, from which those bags are made of, allows only ~80% of uv light to get through. It is much better when you directly soak the pieces in liquid and light them from above.
Hydrogen peroxide solution is dirt cheap and works quite well for that purpose.
Those brown bottles from the pharmacy, right?
@@cee_yarr No, those are sulfuric acid. Just read the caption and you'll be good
@@Tim0feyK I can literally go to my bathroom right now and see a brown bottle like I described and the label says "Hydrogen Peroxide". I live in the US if that makes a difference.
The bottle said to do it in a bag that's why I did it.
@@cee_yarr yes it is what you need. I was just trying to make a joke, eh. The only thing that matters is percentage of peroroxide, the more - the better.
That UV light in combination with the hydrogen peroxide will fasten the "whitening", bit it wil also fasten the yellowing when you shine it on new white pieces. Your brick build logo might start to turn yellow soon. Also try to keep the rare obelisk top away from it
Good to know thanks!
Lightening videos, not just for Lego, seemed to be everywhere a few years back. But I was under the impression that it's often been found to be fool's gold over time, either due to discolouration coming back fairly quickly, or because it damages the plastic? I kind of feel that the best sort of experiment would come back after (say) 12 months.
Yeah I hear this a lot that the yellow comes back.
4:34 wait, you mean you don't know how to solder? It's supper easy, cheap, and useful!
Also I do not recommend looking at ultraviolet light directly.
"Corneal damage, cataracts and macular degeneration are all possible chronic effects from UV exposure and can ultimately lead to decreased vision."
I don't solder no.
Since yellowing it caused a lot by UV light, once you get the plastic white again, you might try something like 303 Marine UV Aerospace Protectant to limit the future UV exposure.
Those are some good results!
There are actually two ways that you can initiate hydrogen peroxide reaction with ABS - either with light (specifically UV light) or heat. While UV makes whole process much quicker, it does compromise plastic itself - it can become much more brittle. If you're not in a rush you could do another test with that stuff but left it in warm place overnight (or maybe until deyellowed, it make take few days, try to replenish retrobrite or keep it in sealed container).
Could you elaborate on that a bit? What is 'warm'? Would you have some source for this?
I've been on the fence myself using peroxide and UV because of just that: potentially brittle pieces.
Edit: video called 'Retrobrighting The True Science Behind It'
@@diatonicdelirium1743 Some that I lightened I just put in peroxide dilute in a glass lidded dish and used a very low heat on the hob. Don't know about brittleness as I didn't use any of the lightened parts in the end. Waited 18 months, came back and they were yellow.
@@BogusNoise Thanks, that's as good a reason to stay away from peroxide as any.
@@diatonicdelirium1743 Another good one is it can make the underside of your fingernails sore 😆
Retro-Brite is just high concentration Hydrogen Peroxide.
You can use off the shelf 3% peroxide and get similar results. Perhaps subtler results.
You can also concentrate it yourself if you're up to such things.
There is also cream peroxide that use used for hair dying. It's highly concentrated as well, and frequently used for Retro-Briteing stuff that would be difficult to submerge.
Sunlight and heat can accelerate the process, but any UV light source will do.
Some of the LEGO-whitening videos I've seen warn that just hydrogen peroxide can have short-term whitening effects, but after some time (not sure the timescale), they end up yellower than they started. I would hope that a purpose-formulated commercial product wouldn't have that side-effect, but you might want to give your test piece some time, just to be sure.
Yes that's what I'm gathering.
UNWHITEN THE LEGO LOGO
Use the uv to deliberately turn your white pieces yellow so you can finally build that logo the way it was designed
(this would likely actually weaken the parts but for the views)
Lol I'll pass on that one.
4:28 just build a LEGO® robot that presses the power button every 60 seconds to turn the UV lamp back on again.
Yes!
You could call it the Brite-Bot.
Best way is.
Buy a gallon of 20% liguid hydrogen peroxide . Wrap a see trough bin in aluminum foil. Empty gallon in bin. Put a good uv light on top let it cook for a couple of hours. It tends to get warm. But that is needed to get te best result. I did this for my Old Jurassic Park toys and you get way more for less
Thanks for the info!
Props for doing this test, but I think you need to wait a lot longer than a few days before bleaching the rare piece. We don't know the timescale of reyellowing but my parts were done with peroxide and a DIY UV LED box, sun or just heat, most came out great and were put in a cardboard box. 18 months later I took them out and they were yellow again.
Also doing more pieces at this point and checking them at regular intervals - say weekly or biweekly - would give broader look at how the pieces are affected and if there's a variance in reyellowing rate.
Yeah I'm going to do a few more then give it some time.
This is gonna be so useful. Luckily most of my yellowed bricks are like 2x4 bricks so it’s not a big deal for me but I’m definitely gonna try this in the future.
Let me know how it goes
similarly, the channel Brickthumb has some video experiments on dying lego with great results. link on the server
Cool thanks!
does exposure to air change how effective this treatment is? or is it meant to be in a bag?
The spray bottle says to do it in a bag.
Don't think.
Of it so much as 'yellowed white', as thinking of it as 'ivory'... 😂
I like that, very positive thinking.
Does this work for Light Blueish Grey?
Not sure, this is my first go at it.
Hi man, what kind of sorting boxes are you using which are placed in front if you?
I think he discusses that in this video ruclips.net/video/8zcMbApRB6I/видео.htmlsi=1xz_aT1jeInRR88u
Here's a video on them ruclips.net/video/lqBagleMjbA/видео.html
@bricksculpt ah, wow thanks lol!
Np
Do you know which set did tip come from?
None it was never officially released.
Never wear rubber gloves over a ring!
that bag is probably blocking the uv light :/
The bottle said to put it in a bag so idk that's what I did.
Hi
Hi