I ride Powerslide but am still amazed at how greedy they are with these IQON bearings. It is really unacceptable to keep pushing industry exclusives which change one thing in order to force complete brand loyalty (Powerslide exclusive gold bearings). Thanks so much for making this video and showing that these IQONs are simply removing the frame spacers and making you compensate with their bearings.
I'm down with the concept of having more configuration-flexibility traded off with bearing-flexibility. They might have had an incentive to create a 'lock-in' to their bearings as well, I don't know. I don't immediately see how they could have solved it otherwise. Several of the axle holes are too close together for creating recesses for insertable spacers. While it's possible to use the washers, it's also a bit fiddly, so not really a user-friendly solution either. It works for me, but won't work for everyone. I do find the frames a bit overpriced, especially considering that leaving out the bosses probably reduces production costs somewhat. The frame seems to me especially suited for beginner freeskaters who think about skating large wheels but need to start on normal wheels first, as I did. But at this price level, it's probably not a realistic investment for most people who want to try out skating to see whether they like it or not.
First of all i really appreciate the video! Provides great inside in the bearings and if the usage of other bearings is even possible. Did you try gluing the washers to the frame yet? If I buy that frame I would only use one configuration and would hope that gluing the washers would make rotating the wheels a bit easier.
Hi Tiuth, thanks! So far haven't tried gluing the washers yet, as the Decode bearings still have a couple miles left on them before they will be worn out. I plan to use silicone caulk. That's the stuff that's used to seal off joints in bathrooms and kitchens. I used it to glue the Powerslide stride-control shims onto this frame, to balance out my pronating feet. Worked fine and was removable with a knife. But with pushing wheels in between, there will be a lot more force involved, so still have to see how silicone caulk would hold up to that. Of course you need to tighten the washers with wheels and all before the caulk is completely dry, to squeeze most of it out, as you don't want a thick layer of flexible material in between the bearings and the frame. Will probably be a very messy job to get it all into the frame with the silicone on there as well. But at least the excess silicone will be removable.
Best interessant en vind het sowieso leuk dat je dit experiment doet! Wel wat een lange video maar daardoor wel lekker gedetailleerd. Kopervet is overigens wat link, je loopt gewoon meer kans op losdraaien van de assen...
Ik heb zelf nog geen wielas gehad die uit zichzelf los ging door kopervet. Wel een frame bout verloren, maar ik had dat ook beter in de gaten moeten houden, met alle krachten die daar aan trekken. Daar kan ik idd misschien beter loctite voor gebruiken. Voordeel van kopervet is dat de assen en bouten niet te vast komen te zitten waardoor je mogelijk zo veel kracht moet zetten bij losdraaien dat de hex of ster sleutel doorschiet en je de as niet meer eruit krijgt.
Thanks for sharing. I was looking for a breakdown exactly like this and you provided such a thorough detailed exploration - thank you. Do you have a quick update you can share after riding the washer version? Do they have an audible rattle?
No I had no issues with the washers at all. As long as you can get the right thickness and size, the only challenge is getting them in between the wheels and the frame. Especially when using the higher holes, for 90mm wheels, it will be a bit fiddly to get them aligned with the holes, in order to be able to insert the axle.
Man I needed this video. Desiring whether to get the cl20 right now with that frame! Thanks for choosing to film and upload 👍 overall how do you rate the skate in general?
I have never tried the cl20 skate, so can't say anything about that. I have the Powerslide Next myself, which has the trinity frame mounting (dual front bolts on the sides). The cl20 has the classic 165 mount. I liked the decode frame as a beginner since I wanted to progress to big wheels but start small.
@@InlinePilot thanks for the info I’m finding it quite confusing. I’ll be honest I think the frames are what is tempting me on cl20 because of all the options.but I also have the option of powerslide next 4x110 for a similar price. I’d appreciate your opinion on why everyone loves the next so much. I’m trying to get something so I can get out with my mates I skate aggressive but new to this side of it.
I’m purchasing tomorrow and I’ll be honest I love the look of both. But can’t try either on either I’ve checked mondo but and I would sit right in the sweet spot in a 41/42 so they are tempting me away from the Iqon
@@Zig423 If you do skate aggressive, the Next is not really the best option, I think. I like the Next because for my low feet it gives me support and comfort, but I still had to modify a lot to make it to my liking. I'm not into aggressive, but I think the trinity mount is not really suitable for aggressive skating. You would be griding on the front bolts that are outside of the frame, and you won't find aggressive frames for Trinity. The 165 mount of the CL20 is better for aggressive. Although most aggressive skates probably use the UFS mount, which is kind of a flat version of the 165 mount. But the 165 mount allows you to fit freestyle/recreational frames as well as aggressive frames. If you just start skating, then a flat 4x110 frame will be useless. Way too large, doesn't respond to turning at low speed, so you can't learn to skate with that. You want something nimble, so short or at least rockered. That being said, the decode frames are not true aggressive frames either. They offer a grind block, but they are not low to the ground, like real aggressive frames. Though I think it's better to start with a rockered frame to learn some basic flat-ground skating, before going anti-rocker. So probably the decode 90 frame (or Decode 80, if you have a foot length below 265mm) is a nice middle-ground frame to explore all the different possibilities with inline skating before committing to one type of skating. One down side about the Decode frame is that it tends to catch twigs and pebbles unless used with large wheels, so not the best option for recreational skating with the smaller wheels. That's not a problem in the skate park, of course. Buying the frame together with your boots is the cheapest option. But having a well fitting boot and liner, with the frame mount that is best for your type(s) of skating. is the most important consideration. Frames can always be exchanged. You can buy boots and liners separately from the frames and wheels, which might still be cheaper than buying an extra set of frames and wheels. The liners seems to be the most expensive part of the skates, though. Best to try before buying, if you can.
@@InlinePilot Thanks so much that’s all brilliant info especia the stuff about the trinity mount. I don’t think I explained well enough though, I already have aggressive skates so this is a second pair of skates to get out doing some freestyle stuff and mid distance skates. I won’t be adding the grind block to the decode or anything. After reading this☝️ I have decided to get the Iqon CL20 it comes with so many options for a 230£ skate. I spend a lot already on stuff so having a skate and frame and as you said the 165 mount sounds very versatile. But I think I will probably get some 4x90 wheels then along with the 3x110 option that will give me options. Sounds 3x110 is a good starting point so they sound perfect. Thanks so much. There a no reviews around for Iqon CL20 I don’t know why but I couldn’t find any info or reviews about the boot itself but the frames alone are almost the price of the skate. So the boot, my fit liner and wheels are practically free. Thank you so much for taking the time to help mate👍
The reason they say not to get metal based lubricants on your hands is because they have a high likelihood of causing cancer unfortunately. I wear gloves when I work with it but any auto mechanic worth their salt has had this on their hands at some point. But I personally think it's worth taking the steps to avoid it.
I ride Powerslide but am still amazed at how greedy they are with these IQON bearings. It is really unacceptable to keep pushing industry exclusives which change one thing in order to force complete brand loyalty (Powerslide exclusive gold bearings). Thanks so much for making this video and showing that these IQONs are simply removing the frame spacers and making you compensate with their bearings.
I'm down with the concept of having more configuration-flexibility traded off with bearing-flexibility. They might have had an incentive to create a 'lock-in' to their bearings as well, I don't know. I don't immediately see how they could have solved it otherwise. Several of the axle holes are too close together for creating recesses for insertable spacers. While it's possible to use the washers, it's also a bit fiddly, so not really a user-friendly solution either. It works for me, but won't work for everyone. I do find the frames a bit overpriced, especially considering that leaving out the bosses probably reduces production costs somewhat. The frame seems to me especially suited for beginner freeskaters who think about skating large wheels but need to start on normal wheels first, as I did. But at this price level, it's probably not a realistic investment for most people who want to try out skating to see whether they like it or not.
First of all i really appreciate the video! Provides great inside in the bearings and if the usage of other bearings is even possible. Did you try gluing the washers to the frame yet? If I buy that frame I would only use one configuration and would hope that gluing the washers would make rotating the wheels a bit easier.
Hi Tiuth, thanks! So far haven't tried gluing the washers yet, as the Decode bearings still have a couple miles left on them before they will be worn out. I plan to use silicone caulk. That's the stuff that's used to seal off joints in bathrooms and kitchens. I used it to glue the Powerslide stride-control shims onto this frame, to balance out my pronating feet. Worked fine and was removable with a knife. But with pushing wheels in between, there will be a lot more force involved, so still have to see how silicone caulk would hold up to that. Of course you need to tighten the washers with wheels and all before the caulk is completely dry, to squeeze most of it out, as you don't want a thick layer of flexible material in between the bearings and the frame. Will probably be a very messy job to get it all into the frame with the silicone on there as well. But at least the excess silicone will be removable.
Best interessant en vind het sowieso leuk dat je dit experiment doet! Wel wat een lange video maar daardoor wel lekker gedetailleerd. Kopervet is overigens wat link, je loopt gewoon meer kans op losdraaien van de assen...
Ik heb zelf nog geen wielas gehad die uit zichzelf los ging door kopervet. Wel een frame bout verloren, maar ik had dat ook beter in de gaten moeten houden, met alle krachten die daar aan trekken. Daar kan ik idd misschien beter loctite voor gebruiken. Voordeel van kopervet is dat de assen en bouten niet te vast komen te zitten waardoor je mogelijk zo veel kracht moet zetten bij losdraaien dat de hex of ster sleutel doorschiet en je de as niet meer eruit krijgt.
Thanks for sharing. I was looking for a breakdown exactly like this and you provided such a thorough detailed exploration - thank you.
Do you have a quick update you can share after riding the washer version? Do they have an audible rattle?
No I had no issues with the washers at all. As long as you can get the right thickness and size, the only challenge is getting them in between the wheels and the frame. Especially when using the higher holes, for 90mm wheels, it will be a bit fiddly to get them aligned with the holes, in order to be able to insert the axle.
Cool !
Man I needed this video. Desiring whether to get the cl20 right now with that frame! Thanks for choosing to film and upload 👍 overall how do you rate the skate in general?
I have never tried the cl20 skate, so can't say anything about that. I have the Powerslide Next myself, which has the trinity frame mounting (dual front bolts on the sides). The cl20 has the classic 165 mount.
I liked the decode frame as a beginner since I wanted to progress to big wheels but start small.
@@InlinePilot thanks for the info I’m finding it quite confusing. I’ll be honest I think the frames are what is tempting me on cl20 because of all the options.but I also have the option of powerslide next 4x110 for a similar price. I’d appreciate your opinion on why everyone loves the next so much. I’m trying to get something so I can get out with my mates I skate aggressive but new to this side of it.
I’m purchasing tomorrow and I’ll be honest I love the look of both. But can’t try either on either I’ve checked mondo but and I would sit right in the sweet spot in a 41/42 so they are tempting me away from the Iqon
@@Zig423 If you do skate aggressive, the Next is not really the best option, I think. I like the Next because for my low feet it gives me support and comfort, but I still had to modify a lot to make it to my liking. I'm not into aggressive, but I think the trinity mount is not really suitable for aggressive skating. You would be griding on the front bolts that are outside of the frame, and you won't find aggressive frames for Trinity. The 165 mount of the CL20 is better for aggressive. Although most aggressive skates probably use the UFS mount, which is kind of a flat version of the 165 mount. But the 165 mount allows you to fit freestyle/recreational frames as well as aggressive frames.
If you just start skating, then a flat 4x110 frame will be useless. Way too large, doesn't respond to turning at low speed, so you can't learn to skate with that. You want something nimble, so short or at least rockered. That being said, the decode frames are not true aggressive frames either. They offer a grind block, but they are not low to the ground, like real aggressive frames. Though I think it's better to start with a rockered frame to learn some basic flat-ground skating, before going anti-rocker. So probably the decode 90 frame (or Decode 80, if you have a foot length below 265mm) is a nice middle-ground frame to explore all the different possibilities with inline skating before committing to one type of skating. One down side about the Decode frame is that it tends to catch twigs and pebbles unless used with large wheels, so not the best option for recreational skating with the smaller wheels. That's not a problem in the skate park, of course.
Buying the frame together with your boots is the cheapest option. But having a well fitting boot and liner, with the frame mount that is best for your type(s) of skating. is the most important consideration. Frames can always be exchanged. You can buy boots and liners separately from the frames and wheels, which might still be cheaper than buying an extra set of frames and wheels. The liners seems to be the most expensive part of the skates, though. Best to try before buying, if you can.
@@InlinePilot Thanks so much that’s all brilliant info especia the stuff about the trinity mount. I don’t think I explained well enough though, I already have aggressive skates so this is a second pair of skates to get out doing some freestyle stuff and mid distance skates. I won’t be adding the grind block to the decode or anything. After reading this☝️ I have decided to get the Iqon CL20 it comes with so many options for a 230£ skate. I spend a lot already on stuff so having a skate and frame and as you said the 165 mount sounds very versatile. But I think I will probably get some 4x90 wheels then along with the 3x110 option that will give me options. Sounds 3x110 is a good starting point so they sound perfect. Thanks so much. There a no reviews around for Iqon CL20 I don’t know why but I couldn’t find any info or reviews about the boot itself but the frames alone are almost the price of the skate. So the boot, my fit liner and wheels are practically free. Thank you so much for taking the time to help mate👍
The reason they say not to get metal based lubricants on your hands is because they have a high likelihood of causing cancer unfortunately. I wear gloves when I work with it but any auto mechanic worth their salt has had this on their hands at some point. But I personally think it's worth taking the steps to avoid it.
Thanks for warning about that. Definitely a good idea to wear gloves.