The test light will not provide enough current to operate the valve. You have a lamp in series with the circuit, so trying to test the valve with this won't work. You need to apply 12 V to the valve but don't leave it connected. Just tap it - tap tap tap tap on the contact and it should click click click click.
I'm testing my own pump as part of a fault code diagnosis. Don't quote me on this, but during my investigations I seem to remember reading that the Spill Valve is unusual in that it takes high voltage (~150V) to activate, in which case a 12V test won't work. This explains why it has its own controller (the little black box with the heat sink) in order to provide this voltage. Hope you got it fixed, in any case!
ruclips.net/video/z53M2dmA0Tc/видео.html it was a simple broken wire. As for it not shutting down, maybe it is the spill control valve module. This regulates the voltage going to the spill control valve. Seems weird that it would start put not stop… is the computer functioning ok?
A master diesel mechanic mate suggested to it could be a stuck spill valve not closing. But also, if the mother is very worn, these things can run on fumes from excessive blow by. Let’s hope it’s just a sticky spill valve. Let me know how you get one. Us landcruiser owners have to stick together ;-). Good luck.
It controls the amount of fuel that goes to the injectors. It is a solenoid so you should hear it click when you power it up so if there is no sound it must be jammed - there is a filter that can get clogged up, and you should find it you undo the bolt.
@@seanlittlefair105 Hi mate, I have this problem, when the engine gets a little hot the car shut off, and no start again, but if I let it cool for an hour, it will start normally. The engine was rebuilt some months ago. Some friends say that it could be the spill valve, do u agree?
OK, I know this is a year old but, apart from "what's the correct voltage"? You are never going to get enough current running through your test light to activate anything other than a relay, 130Milliamps. It is a resistance that will limit current flow. So even if 12 volts could activate it you would still need at least 5 amps.
The test light will not provide enough current to operate the valve. You have a lamp in series with the circuit, so trying to test the valve with this won't work. You need to apply 12 V to the valve but don't leave it connected. Just tap it - tap tap tap tap on the contact and it should click click click click.
I'm testing my own pump as part of a fault code diagnosis. Don't quote me on this, but during my investigations I seem to remember reading that the Spill Valve is unusual in that it takes high voltage (~150V) to activate, in which case a 12V test won't work. This explains why it has its own controller (the little black box with the heat sink) in order to provide this voltage. Hope you got it fixed, in any case!
Thanks for the update. Yes got the problem fixed. It was a earth to the Control Spill Driver module. 6 weeks to find, and 20 minutes to fix ;-)
Hi mate, having an issue with the same car not shutting off. What did you work out? Thanks!
ruclips.net/video/z53M2dmA0Tc/видео.html it was a simple broken wire. As for it not shutting down, maybe it is the spill control valve module. This regulates the voltage going to the spill control valve. Seems weird that it would start put not stop… is the computer functioning ok?
A master diesel mechanic mate suggested to it could be a stuck spill valve not closing. But also, if the mother is very worn, these things can run on fumes from excessive blow by. Let’s hope it’s just a sticky spill valve. Let me know how you get one. Us landcruiser owners have to stick together ;-). Good luck.
It controls the amount of fuel that goes to the injectors. It is a solenoid so you should hear it click when you power it up so if there is no sound it must be jammed - there is a filter that can get clogged up, and you should find it you undo the bolt.
@@seanlittlefair105 Hi mate, I have this problem, when the engine gets a little hot the car shut off, and no start again, but if I let it cool for an hour, it will start normally. The engine was rebuilt some months ago. Some friends say that it could be the spill valve, do u agree?
OK, I know this is a year old but, apart from "what's the correct voltage"? You are never going to get enough current running through your test light to activate anything other than a relay, 130Milliamps. It is a resistance that will limit current flow. So even if 12 volts could activate it you would still need at least 5 amps.