My son had a97 civic and when he had it in to the dealer for repairs the mechanic called us in to the car and showed him a crack from the O2 sensor down the manifold. Seeing Someone had welded the heat shield back in place he asked if either of us had done the welding and when I said I had done it he proceeded to show us the crack and explained exactly what you showed us.Always requested the mechanic ever since as he was never too quick to empty our pocket book of our hard earned cash. Thank for the down to earth videos.
Your son is lucky that you are doing the work. Great dad👍 with that being said I am 75 years old but wouldn’t mind if you adopted me so you can work on my Honda😀
Amen better than spending thousands at automotive school. Everything they’ll teach you at school you can find online. It’s just that you don’t get any hands on training, you’ll have to buy the cars and work on them yourself. Which is still probably cheaper than automotive haha
Hello, there are 221 comments at this point and I only read down to 10. Granted one would not want to remove the head. Yet there has to be cause for the Crack. Over torqued? Mating surfaces not square to each other? Old school surfacing technique. Attach sand paper to a thick piece of glass and rub the collector flange back and forth till desired results are achieved. My wild guess is dissimilar metals expanding and contracting at different rates is the cause.
The hole tip ... so important, this stops the stress riser. Another key thing to remember is to check the mating surfaces of the manifold to head and adjust to make a stress-free fit. As always, thanks for sharing, Cheers
So, you drill a hole, and then weld the crack? Is the hole better than the crack? There isn't a permanent repair because if you spent hundreds (or thousands, if you have an integrated catalytic converter) on a new unit that very well may crack down the line, too? Once again, I am doomed?!
9th comment, well EC I can tell you that, if one has been following your channel as long as I have, way back before the cool beard, lol you Sir have gotten a lot better at welding, don't be hard on yourself, it's a craft the more you practice the better ya get! On a funny note: there's a lot of crack in this video lol. Nice repair and I thank you EC!
Took welding class way back in high school, Newburgh Free Academy with instructor Mr Bruck. No greater satisfaction than when you get a good flow going and the result in a nice even bead that looks awesome. Was a great class, covered arc and oxyacetylene welding.
@@ardie72 But the real question here is: Should I buy it made from stainless or titanium? And even more important: Will that stuff cure my cats diarrea?
If the exhaust manifold is cast iron, it can be arc welded with a rod made specifaclly for cast iron, of course, the part must be heated prior to the weld, usually with a torch.
I'm no mechanic but I've done a bit of welding. I'd have used a TIG on that weld so as to have better control over penetration and filler addition. I'd have also bolted the mounting flange to a flat surface so as to reduce the effect of warping due to the heat involved in the welding process. However, if your method works then who am I to say anything :-)
Meh I used to have MIG, now I have acdc TIG which is all cool.. but the damn holes are harder to fill and parts must not have any gaps... you win some you loose some
@@Bakanelli I find holes easier to fill with TIG because you have far more control over heat input. I guess it's all about getting enough practice to become proficient.
That's one way of doing it. Personally, I would have brought out my torches and brazed the area. Same prep. Drill a hole to relieve stress and groove the crack for better penetration.
Likely the best way. I would have done the brazing with TIG but brazing is WAY underrated. A lot less warpage and normally better penetration due to the better flow out of brazing. I doubt Eric's welds will hold as a 110V MIG just doesn't have enough power to get this job done. If I would have welded it I would have used 7018 and stick.
@@satamanschmidt3428 i think he should have ground it out deeper and could have preheated the metal with something like a propane/map torch. I'm thinking it would have given it a better chance of success.
what brazing rod would you use? maybe a 50 percent silver/phos rod? Ive heard of people brazing with brass rods as well. I recently learned to braze pot metal with a 50 tin/50 lead solder. the flux is the key. C FLUX is the only thing that would let it stick.
@@randy1ization Realize that I'm using TIG so the rod of choice is Aluminum Bronze.. Because of the argon shielding gas there is no need for flux as there is for torch methods.
Hey Eric can I recommend you turn your wire speed up by at least 2 notches on your mig. Sounds to me your on the ragged edge of burning back to the tip . Your welds will go a lot better.
Great video. Question: what symptoms does a car show when there are cracks in the manifold? Lean or rich condition? High or low voltage o2 sensor readings? Thanks
Many times you don't notice at all. You might hear it when the engine is running. Given that it's just one runner going into a collector before the O2, you likely won't see too much of a difference in the readings. I think this is the best way to find the leak. ruclips.net/video/wYVjkyLdID4/видео.html
@@ericthecarguy, if a crack on the intake exists, is it within reason to expect your air-to-fuel ratio to be abnormally disproportional? It's never exact, but in that situation, wouldn't be abnormally off during idle? Same concept for an exhaust manifold point that cracks where O2 readings are concerned? Also, I never saw you weld over the hole you drilled... Maybe to some it was obvious, but am I correct in thinking you welded it up? I can't see the solution to a pressure point being an open hole like that and assumed that when you drilled it out, it was to alleviate some sort of metallurgical imperfection that caused the stress point whereby re-welding it up somehow alleviated it...
@@22_floW ... with an exhaust crack it's under pressure so you wont see any changes in mixture readings. The reason to drill a hole is to relieve stress because you can't always see the hairline at the end. If you open it up you are also spreading the stress load over a larger area when you fill in the spot with weld. Basically it does the same thing as using a large flat washer with a bolt to spread the load.
First thing I do to parts with thick rust like this manifold flange is get the torch and heat it up just enough to make those rust flakes pop off of there. And a little pre-heating never hurt for welding like you’re doing here. Now for cast iron - pre-heat for sure. Use NiRod and burn in short stitches. Let the slag set up and use the pointy end of your chipping hammer to peen the weld. This is important cause it helps the pieces under strain of the shrinking weld to relax. Bounce around your joint welding a little over an inch at a time, peen those welds, wire brush the slag out of there and then wrap the part in a fiberglass mat covered by thick fiberglass wool insulation. I’ve never had a cast iron part fail after welding it like this. The first time I did this was 20 years ago and I salvaged an exhaust elbow on a big old Cat dozer engine. Replacement part was $475.00 and I’ll bet you can’t get them from Cat anymore. So don’t be afraid. Give it a try.
Eric, when welding cast material whether iron or steel the pre heating process is less important than post heating and slow cooling. To prevent the weld from cracking the material must be cooled very slowly. A cheap yet effective solution is to immediately cover the part in sand or clay based cat litter after welding to slow the cooling process. Love your videos brother!
I don't know if this is helpful to anyone, but I've been using stainless steel marine grade bolts on exhaust manifolds and they seem to last longer (not shrink) and unfastened much more easily when needed.
I think some of the original Honda, Toyota hardware is stainless and last. Also strength wise it's many times better than the common aftermarket replacement junk. I usually heat up the exhaust bolts and nuts before dismantling.
I have found that I don't even need to heat up the stainless steel bolts, they seem to just come off, even after 5 years of use on a Honda Prelude Mk5 h22 they just loosen off the manifold without too much issue.
I agree with everything you did except the paint, it is junk and smells bad. Used it on my motorcycle exhaust pipes couple times prepped properly and crap just peeled off after a bit, i guess your suppose to bake it in the oven but i didnt have big enough oven maybe that why mine failed. Worked ok on muffler part of it but not the header pipes,also never fully cured on muffler, could rub it off if i touched it with my shoe. Never tried any other brands of exhaust paint so can’t speak for other brands
looked up the price of a new one and yeah... pricey af. i remember replacing one on my old ass "dodge" colt years back and i think a used one was maybe $45? good times.
I also had someone's car a Chevy cobalt to be exact it's exhaust manifold cracked too quite bad actually. I _HAD NO ACCESS TO A WELDER AT THE TIME_ so....i had to use steel stik to like plug it.. I hated that I had to do that but it worked for the most part, still have no access to welder to this day anyway
I tried jb weld on my cracked manifold and all it did was create the worst stink I've ever smelled. I was able to pick up a used one for $100 for my 95 civic. Still driving it.
next time notch the crack with a triangle file, do a thin fillet weld in the crack, then do a cap weld on top of that. your cap weld was a little cold. did u use shielding gas. ?
Not really possible anymore. The completely removed the field where everybody parked and the lot is full of trucks now. Not to mention I'm moving to a new shop with no room for that much parking. Instead, my plan was to travel around during the summers to different car shows and have mini Meet Ups. Sadly COVID changed those plans over the past couple of years. Thanks for coming out in 2016. It was likely the last Meet Up I'll ever do.
For someone just getting started and wanting to be able to repair manifolds, just grab a portable oxy-acetylene set and learn to braze. Then you can do cast and steel manifolds. It's cheap, and so long as you take your time, very little cleanup. Bonus is that you can preheat a cast manifold to help prevent the metal from warping and breaking. Plus brass will flex a bit, making it very forgiving. If you choose carefully, you also get a cutting torch for the price. Rest of the procedure is pretty much the same.
I can't give too many details, but a lot of testing is done on welded manifolds like this (I work for a manufacturer of these, but not for Honda!) to test long-term heat/crack performance. Not as simple as shoving together some stainless and calling it a day!
Arguably, brazing is easier than welding. An oxy/acetylene or oxy/propane torch is all one needs to flux braze. Put it in the kitchen oven on self clean mode for an hour or 2, braze it immediately, then put it in a big container and bury it in sand and let it cool slowwwwwwwly overnight.
This is a great repair. I know this is your son car and you're fixing it on a budget. But its also a good repair for a regular customer who wants to stay on a budget.Many comments say its better to replace. Junkyard could be gamble because the cat may have failed. And new manifold-cat cost a lot..Repair is ALWAYS the better choice on the budget side if the thing could be welded properly. 👍 Nice new welder A REVIEW MAYBE Of the machine 🤘
Eric saw a video of you getting rid of some of your stuff I am a retired vet and looking to make some side money how can I get that tire machine and wheel balancer really enjoy your videos keep doing what you do brother
I haven't kept up with your Pilot videos but was wondering how those exhaust cats are ... I read they too can crack on the 1st-gen models, although from what I recall it's more so at the bottom flange?
Doesn’t this manifold surface look pretty warped? How did it hold up? I planned to do this on mine but now that it’s off and not hot I cannot find the tiny cracks I thought I saw leaking. I also don’t know if I can plane the mating surface of the manifold because there are raised rings on the manifold surface around the ports, or can I?
How much do you generally charge for doing that? Do you think a patch job with that putty-like stuff would suffice with a crack like this one? (to pass smog)
do you happen to know the part number for a 2006 forester transfer clutch solenoid ? my wife's car is shuttering in turns I think that might be the problem. ?
Big question is, why does the manifold Crack? Not enough structural support, to thin of metal, bad design of it and or the motor mounts to eliminate shock? Just wondering. Keep the videos coming.
My 99 civic also had a nasty crack. And none of these manifolds are available at pull-a-part, kenny-u-pull and others. They cut the catalitic converter right off the manifold.
SIR ERIC, Does the car have a FLEX PIPE or what ever you want to call them to prevent this from happening ? If not wouldn't adding one HELP A LOT since this is a common problem ? Welding, If you don't weld damn near every week or went to school for it, your welds won't be the best but as long as they hold, THAT IS MY .02 ON WELDING. If you don't something enough times, HOW ARE YOU GOING TO GET BETTER AT IT ? Your welds DO NOT BOTHER ME & SCREW THE PEOPLE WHO COMPLAIN ABOUT THEM.
Thanks for that comment. No, this car does not run a flex pipe, but the lower part of the manifold is attached to the engine block via a bracket so it's pretty secure. I believe the issue is cheap metal and the heat cycles an exhaust manifold sees in its lifetime. It adds up to a lot of mechanical and thermal stress over time. Thanks again.
Hey Eric were u able to verify that you solved the oil leak on this vehicle? Reason why I ask is because I replaced my rear main seal twice and still have a oil , I lose half a quarter every 2 weeks on my 98 integra ls
What's the best way to determine if it's got a crack before I remove it? I hear this chchchch sound coming from that general area, but my manual transmission is also on its last leg and I cant figure out which it is. It doesn't seem to go away in neutral or when I push the clutch in tho so I'm wondering if it's the manifold? At what point does it throw a code? Would a scan tool pick that up? (04 mustang GT)
Steel or cast steel. At least weld repair is easier compared to cast iron. Cast iron is generally full of crap which interferes with the weld pool and cracks easily form around the HAZ, even with correct preheating and cool-down, and peening the weld afterwards. I normally use Ni 99% rod for cast iron. Steel is much easier to work with. Stainless steel is even better imo. Having the cat in the manifold is great.
@@zeroyon4562 I asked because I have both steel and a cast iron exhaust manifolds, one from the F22A4 and one from the F22A6 engines. I am currently running the A4 Steel Manifold.
Out of curiosity, did you do any minor porting on the inside of the manifold? By coincidence I was looking into a similar manifold a couple of weeks ago, and the junctions between the exhaust tubes and the flange at the engine side were horrible. A little minor porting looked like it could do wonders for flow through the manifold.
No. You might want to check out the Engine Masters episode where they dented headers on an engine and ran it on the Dyno to see if the power output was effected. Spoiler alert, the performance wasn't effected at all despite running exhaust through very damaged headers.
I’ve heard these become clogged and cause issues. At idle with temp gun, mine reads 330 into manifold. 550! At the front of this cat and back down to 330 at the end. I’ve heard people gutting these pre cats and having great success. But if it’s working I’ll probably just leave it stock
My son had a97 civic and when he had it in to the dealer for repairs the mechanic called us in to the car and showed him a crack from the O2 sensor down the manifold. Seeing Someone had welded the heat shield back in place he asked if either of us had done the welding and when I said I had done it he proceeded to show us the crack and explained exactly what you showed us.Always requested the mechanic ever since as he was never too quick to empty our pocket book of our hard earned cash. Thank for the down to earth videos.
Big issues with civics, my exhaust has over 20 cracks
1 of the best mchanics that Ive been following for the last 12 years maybe more .. keep up the good work man
Yes, Eric and maybe Scotty Kilmer…unfortunately the latter has kinda faded away of late…
@@museinglis1979 yeah , I agree .
Your son is lucky that you are doing the work. Great dad👍 with that being said I am 75 years old but wouldn’t mind if you adopted me so you can work on my Honda😀
Amen better than spending thousands at automotive school. Everything they’ll teach you at school you can find online. It’s just that you don’t get any hands on training, you’ll have to buy the cars and work on them yourself. Which is still probably cheaper than automotive haha
Another great video! Thanks man!
One great helpful youtuber to another. Nice!
I always enjoy your videos Alex. Can’t wait for another video.
Hello, there are 221 comments at this point and I only read down to 10. Granted one would not want to remove the head. Yet there has to be cause for the Crack. Over torqued? Mating surfaces not square to each other? Old school surfacing technique. Attach sand paper to a thick piece of glass and rub the collector flange back and forth till desired results are achieved. My wild guess is dissimilar metals expanding and contracting at different rates is the cause.
The hole tip ... so important, this stops the stress riser. Another key thing to remember is to check the mating surfaces of the manifold to head and adjust to make a stress-free fit.
As always, thanks for sharing,
Cheers
Great point, thanks for the comment.
Saw this after my comment. Yes, how flat is the mating surface, it could be stressing it out after torquing the bolts down.
@@DylanFahey So true.
So, you drill a hole, and then weld the crack? Is the hole better than the crack?
There isn't a permanent repair because if you spent hundreds (or thousands, if you have an integrated catalytic converter) on a new unit that very well may crack down the line, too?
Once again, I am doomed?!
My question is. If there are raised rings around the ports on the manifold surface. Can I sand the hole surface flat?
9th comment, well EC I can tell you that, if one has been following your channel as long as I have, way back before the cool beard, lol you Sir have gotten a lot better at welding, don't be hard on yourself, it's a craft the more you practice the better ya get! On a funny note: there's a lot of crack in this video lol. Nice repair and I thank you EC!
Thanks!
Took welding class way back in high school, Newburgh Free Academy with instructor Mr Bruck. No greater satisfaction than when you get a good flow going and the result in a nice even bead that looks awesome. Was a great class, covered arc and oxyacetylene welding.
i had a toasted tomato and cheese sandwich for lunch with a cranberry juice- i saw a girl- i think her name was julie
@@ardie72 But the real question here is: Should I buy it made from stainless or titanium? And even more important: Will that stuff cure my cats diarrea?
@@ardie72 I don't like jews.
@@Yes-hf6cw makes two of us
If the exhaust manifold is cast iron, it can be arc welded with a rod made specifaclly for cast iron, of course, the part must be heated prior to the weld, usually with a torch.
ERIC! Before welding the part, start on a test piece everytime and adjust your mashine if needed! Regards from the EU :-)
As a fellow RUclipsr I can see the hard work that you put into your videos it's crazy how you are making basically two videos in the same day
Man you've came a long way from the guy with the pony tail. I can't tell you how many cars I've fixed because of your videos. You're a life saver! 🙏🙏🙏
👍
I'm no mechanic but I've done a bit of welding. I'd have used a TIG on that weld so as to have better control over penetration and filler addition. I'd have also bolted the mounting flange to a flat surface so as to reduce the effect of warping due to the heat involved in the welding process. However, if your method works then who am I to say anything :-)
Meh I used to have MIG, now I have acdc TIG which is all cool.. but the damn holes are harder to fill and parts must not have any gaps... you win some you loose some
@@Bakanelli I find holes easier to fill with TIG because you have far more control over heat input. I guess it's all about getting enough practice to become proficient.
Seems like he used what he had🙂
What about the relief hole you drilled? Does it that get covered up?
I welded it shut.
That's one way of doing it. Personally, I would have brought out my torches and brazed the area. Same prep. Drill a hole to relieve stress and groove the crack for better penetration.
Likely the best way. I would have done the brazing with TIG but brazing is WAY underrated. A lot less warpage and normally better penetration due to the better flow out of brazing. I doubt Eric's welds will hold as a 110V MIG just doesn't have enough power to get this job done. If I would have welded it I would have used 7018 and stick.
@@satamanschmidt3428 i think he should have ground it out deeper and could have preheated the metal with something like a propane/map torch. I'm thinking it would have given it a better chance of success.
what brazing rod would you use? maybe a 50 percent silver/phos rod? Ive heard of people brazing with brass rods as well. I recently learned to braze pot metal with a 50 tin/50 lead solder. the flux is the key. C FLUX is the only thing that would let it stick.
@@randy1ization Realize that I'm using TIG so the rod of choice is Aluminum Bronze.. Because of the argon shielding gas there is no need for flux as there is for torch methods.
I have an Eastwood digital 200 and I absolutely love it
Hey Eric can I recommend you turn your wire speed up by at least 2 notches on your mig. Sounds to me your on the ragged edge of burning back to the tip . Your welds will go a lot better.
Thank you Eric for sharing your wonderful videos just why such a short video I am watching from South Africa
They can't all be long videos. My focus is on making them good, no matter what the length. Have a great weekend.
Would a cracked manifold make my 95 civic overheat a lil over the half mark? No heat shield
I've never had an over heating issue related to a cracked manifold. I would check for coolant leaks, thermostat and the cooling fans.
Thank you Eric. Great video.
Absolutely the best mechanic ericthecarguy!
Time to upgrade to some high flow headers Eric!
Great video. Question: what symptoms does a car show when there are cracks in the manifold? Lean or rich condition? High or low voltage o2 sensor readings? Thanks
Many times you don't notice at all. You might hear it when the engine is running. Given that it's just one runner going into a collector before the O2, you likely won't see too much of a difference in the readings. I think this is the best way to find the leak. ruclips.net/video/wYVjkyLdID4/видео.html
@@ericthecarguy, if a crack on the intake exists, is it within reason to expect your air-to-fuel ratio to be abnormally disproportional? It's never exact, but in that situation, wouldn't be abnormally off during idle? Same concept for an exhaust manifold point that cracks where O2 readings are concerned?
Also, I never saw you weld over the hole you drilled... Maybe to some it was obvious, but am I correct in thinking you welded it up? I can't see the solution to a pressure point being an open hole like that and assumed that when you drilled it out, it was to alleviate some sort of metallurgical imperfection that caused the stress point whereby re-welding it up somehow alleviated it...
Nice job.
@@22_floW It's the magic of molecular science. :)
@@22_floW ... with an exhaust crack it's under pressure so you wont see any changes in mixture readings. The reason to drill a hole is to relieve stress because you can't always see the hairline at the end. If you open it up you are also spreading the stress load over a larger area when you fill in the spot with weld. Basically it does the same thing as using a large flat washer with a bolt to spread the load.
First thing I do to parts with thick rust like this manifold flange is get the torch and heat it up just enough to make those rust flakes pop off of there. And a little pre-heating never hurt for welding like you’re doing here. Now for cast iron - pre-heat for sure. Use NiRod and burn in short stitches. Let the slag set up and use the pointy end of your chipping hammer to peen the weld. This is important cause it helps the pieces under strain of the shrinking weld to relax. Bounce around your joint welding a little over an inch at a time, peen those welds, wire brush the slag out of there and then wrap the part in a fiberglass mat covered by thick fiberglass wool insulation. I’ve never had a cast iron part fail after welding it like this. The first time I did this was 20 years ago and I salvaged an exhaust elbow on a big old Cat dozer engine. Replacement part was $475.00 and I’ll bet you can’t get them from Cat anymore. So don’t be afraid. Give it a try.
Glad you can salvage an expensive part.
Eric, when welding cast material whether iron or steel the pre heating process is less important than post heating and slow cooling. To prevent the weld from cracking the material must be cooled very slowly. A cheap yet effective solution is to immediately cover the part in sand or clay based cat litter after welding to slow the cooling process. Love your videos brother!
Amen
Thank you
Fun game. Take a shot anytime Eric says crack.
Love ya Eric! Nice short!
Cool. I have the exact same manifold. I've only seen a cat at the wrecking yard once.
Thanks for the great video and information..
Which welding rod can I use
I've braised Cast Iron years ago with some success. I think they make special rods for stick welding cast iron now .
welding 101 class
Welding cast iron can be "a can of worms". Brazing is THE way to go. Check the videos of Keith Fenner and Keith Rucker out.
I bought some used DC headers in this condition by accident so this'll help
I don't know if this is helpful to anyone, but I've been using stainless steel marine grade bolts on exhaust manifolds and they seem to last longer (not shrink) and unfastened much more easily when needed.
I think some of the original Honda, Toyota hardware is stainless and last. Also strength wise it's many times better than the common aftermarket replacement junk. I usually heat up the exhaust bolts and nuts before dismantling.
I have found that I don't even need to heat up the stainless steel bolts, they seem to just come off, even after 5 years of use on a Honda Prelude Mk5 h22 they just loosen off the manifold without too much issue.
I second the great video! Thanks.
I've never welded and liked to just watch and listen, etc.
Thanks for this practical video!
I agree with everything you did except the paint, it is junk and smells bad. Used it on my motorcycle exhaust pipes couple times prepped properly and crap just peeled off after a bit, i guess your suppose to bake it in the oven but i didnt have big enough oven maybe that why mine failed. Worked ok on muffler part of it but not the header pipes,also never fully cured on muffler, could rub it off if i touched it with my shoe. Never tried any other brands of exhaust paint so can’t speak for other brands
Wow, that looks great after the weld and paint protection!
I'm learning! I love these videos, and I'm getting my tools up
looked up the price of a new one and yeah... pricey af. i remember replacing one on my old ass "dodge" colt years back and i think a used one was maybe $45? good times.
Eric, your bideos helped me finish my first restoration. BTW I'm old. Thanks man.
You know you're a real hotrodder when you pull out the die grinder haha
I also had someone's car a Chevy cobalt to be exact it's exhaust manifold cracked too quite bad actually. I _HAD NO ACCESS TO A WELDER AT THE TIME_ so....i had to use steel stik to like plug it.. I hated that I had to do that but it worked for the most part, still have no access to welder to this day anyway
I tried jb weld on my cracked manifold and all it did was create the worst stink I've ever smelled. I was able to pick up a used one for $100 for my 95 civic. Still driving it.
next time notch the crack with a triangle file, do a thin fillet weld in the crack, then do a cap weld on top of that. your cap weld was a little cold. did u use shielding gas. ?
Thank you Eric 🇨🇦🤘
Eric, how did you become aware of the crack? By sight? By sound?
While doing the head gasket. ruclips.net/video/wQq2vHSYYrc/видео.html
Video link in the description for finding exhaust leaks. Hope that helps.
Happy Friday!
If cast iron needs to be welded can it be heated up and welded with normal mild steel filler wire or a special filler wire?
Eric, what did ya do for the hole you drilled?
Great video! Thanks!
My name is still on your meetup board from 2016..... good times... you should have those meetups again !!
Not really possible anymore. The completely removed the field where everybody parked and the lot is full of trucks now. Not to mention I'm moving to a new shop with no room for that much parking. Instead, my plan was to travel around during the summers to different car shows and have mini Meet Ups. Sadly COVID changed those plans over the past couple of years. Thanks for coming out in 2016. It was likely the last Meet Up I'll ever do.
For someone just getting started and wanting to be able to repair manifolds, just grab a portable oxy-acetylene set and learn to braze. Then you can do cast and steel manifolds. It's cheap, and so long as you take your time, very little cleanup. Bonus is that you can preheat a cast manifold to help prevent the metal from warping and breaking. Plus brass will flex a bit, making it very forgiving.
If you choose carefully, you also get a cutting torch for the price. Rest of the procedure is pretty much the same.
is it gonna be as good as new? or last as long as a new one?
I can't give too many details, but a lot of testing is done on welded manifolds like this (I work for a manufacturer of these, but not for Honda!) to test long-term heat/crack performance. Not as simple as shoving together some stainless and calling it a day!
Good thing it wasn't cast iron. You would have to braze that. Cast steel is much easier to work with.
Arguably, brazing is easier than welding. An oxy/acetylene or oxy/propane torch is all one needs to flux braze. Put it in the kitchen oven on self clean mode for an hour or 2, braze it immediately, then put it in a big container and bury it in sand and let it cool slowwwwwwwly overnight.
@@mannys9130 I usually just TIG braze with silicon bronze rod. Nothing is easier than MIg welding.
Hi Eric, can the turbo bolt hole split in half from over heating or over tightening the bolt? Thanks for your time.
Great job Erik
Everything you do is awesome !!!
This is a great repair. I know this is your son car and you're fixing it on a budget. But its also a good repair for a regular customer who wants to stay on a budget.Many comments say its better to replace. Junkyard could be gamble because the cat may have failed. And new manifold-cat cost a lot..Repair is ALWAYS the better choice on the budget side if the thing could be welded properly. 👍 Nice new welder A REVIEW MAYBE Of the machine 🤘
Great job eric
good job bud thumbs up shared
Nice work 🚘
Eric saw a video of you getting rid of some of your stuff I am a retired vet and looking to make some side money how can I get that tire machine and wheel balancer really enjoy your videos keep doing what you do brother
I haven't kept up with your Pilot videos but was wondering how those exhaust cats are ... I read they too can crack on the 1st-gen models, although from what I recall it's more so at the bottom flange?
Doesn’t this manifold surface look pretty warped? How did it hold up? I planned to do this on mine but now that it’s off and not hot I cannot find the tiny cracks I thought I saw leaking. I also don’t know if I can plane the mating surface of the manifold because there are raised rings on the manifold surface around the ports, or can I?
GREAT TIP !!!! Drilling holes each end .....
Since the other end of the crack was at the manifold flange, there really wasn't a place to drill a hole. Thanks for the comment.
Hey Eric, did you get any fueling problems because of the crack? Like positive fuel trims, lean condition?
Wait, did you fill the hole you made with weld?
I want to hear his opinion on the 2023 Acura Integra lol.
How much do you generally charge for doing that? Do you think a patch job with that putty-like stuff would suffice with a crack like this one? (to pass smog)
do you happen to know the part number for a 2006 forester transfer clutch solenoid ? my wife's car is shuttering in turns I think that might be the problem. ?
Awesome vid.
Big question is, why does the manifold Crack? Not enough structural support, to thin of metal, bad design of it and or the motor mounts to eliminate shock? Just wondering. Keep the videos coming.
Excellent tip
Muy bueno.
You're the welding king compared to me.
My 99 civic also had a nasty crack. And none of these manifolds are available at pull-a-part, kenny-u-pull and others. They cut the catalitic converter right off the manifold.
I believe salvage yards really aren't allowed to sell catalytic converters.
can't wait to hear Eric's take on the new Integra. Maybe on Monday's ETCG1?
SIR ERIC, Does the car have a FLEX PIPE or what ever you want to call them to prevent this from happening ? If not wouldn't adding one HELP A LOT since this is a common problem ? Welding, If you don't weld damn near every week or went to school for it, your welds won't be the best but as long as they hold, THAT IS MY .02 ON WELDING. If you don't something enough times, HOW ARE YOU GOING TO GET BETTER AT IT ? Your welds DO NOT BOTHER ME & SCREW THE PEOPLE WHO COMPLAIN ABOUT THEM.
Thanks for that comment. No, this car does not run a flex pipe, but the lower part of the manifold is attached to the engine block via a bracket so it's pretty secure. I believe the issue is cheap metal and the heat cycles an exhaust manifold sees in its lifetime. It adds up to a lot of mechanical and thermal stress over time. Thanks again.
@@ericthecarguy T.Y SIR
sons manifold cracked in exact same spot. didnt know it was not cast iron, and thought I got lucky. how do u tell cast from pot metal?
Hi Eric thank you for the video you think using j p welder paste can fix the leak
Likely not. Too many heat cycles.
Hey Eric were u able to verify that you solved the oil leak on this vehicle? Reason why I ask is because I replaced my rear main seal twice and still have a oil , I lose half a quarter every 2 weeks on my 98 integra ls
Thank you for your knowledge.
Glad cool air didn't get in there and crack the exhaust valve.
is that an echo telling us you got a bigger shop?
Hi is it worth it fixing a Toyota Prius 2010 exhaust manifold or just replacing it ? Thank u
Eric you're such a badass
Nice job, Eric 👍🏼
A grinder and paint make you the welder you ain't!!!
Do these exhaust cracks cause a lean code?
Crack kills! Manifolds
Good job on that weld Eric
I recently installed a new one on my 04 Honda Civic (over 350k miles)
I was just about to look for how to fix a cracked exhaust video.. How did you know?
What's the best way to determine if it's got a crack before I remove it? I hear this chchchch sound coming from that general area, but my manual transmission is also on its last leg and I cant figure out which it is. It doesn't seem to go away in neutral or when I push the clutch in tho so I'm wondering if it's the manifold? At what point does it throw a code? Would a scan tool pick that up? (04 mustang GT)
Does anyone know the part number for the two spring bolts where the lower end of the manifold bolts to the rest of the exhaust?
As usual, very helpful. Who makes that neat center punch (or is it a prick punch)?
What is a better exhaust manifold, cast Iron or steel? I run from engines that have the Cat connected to the manifolds.
Steel or cast steel. At least weld repair is easier compared to cast iron. Cast iron is generally full of crap which interferes with the weld pool and cracks easily form around the HAZ, even with correct preheating and cool-down, and peening the weld afterwards. I normally use Ni 99% rod for cast iron.
Steel is much easier to work with.
Stainless steel is even better imo.
Having the cat in the manifold is great.
@@zeroyon4562 I asked because I have both steel and a cast iron exhaust manifolds, one from the F22A4 and one from the F22A6 engines. I am currently running the A4 Steel Manifold.
Eric what did you pay for that Ranger RL-8500 brake lathe.
Out of curiosity, did you do any minor porting on the inside of the manifold? By coincidence I was looking into a similar manifold a couple of weeks ago, and the junctions between the exhaust tubes and the flange at the engine side were horrible. A little minor porting looked like it could do wonders for flow through the manifold.
No. You might want to check out the Engine Masters episode where they dented headers on an engine and ran it on the Dyno to see if the power output was effected. Spoiler alert, the performance wasn't effected at all despite running exhaust through very damaged headers.
Is there a good way to test for leaks on the exhaust
Yes, ruclips.net/video/wYVjkyLdID4/видео.html
@@ericthecarguy thank-you 🙂
Do manifold have noises when cracked
Did you end up welding up that hole that you drilled? It'll just be a huge exhaust leak if not.
Yes, you can see it in the final shots of the video.
I’ve heard these become clogged and cause issues. At idle with temp gun, mine reads 330 into manifold. 550! At the front of this cat and back down to 330 at the end. I’ve heard people gutting these pre cats and having great success. But if it’s working I’ll probably just leave it stock