I've used JB weld for years. I've successively used JB weld to repair leaking fuel tanks and cracked oil pans. JB weld is good stuff. However, it's all about preparation. Use carb cleaner or acetone, paint thinner, or gasoline to clean your work surface. Sand and sand some more to rough up the surface so the JB weld will attach and stay attached. After you have cleaned the surface with some cleaner, ie: gas, carb cleaner, acetone, paint thinner, or whatever, then clean it again. Point being is to make sure the surface is super clean. Grinding a v-groove at the crack is a good idea, but not always necessary. When applying the JB weld, make sure you're penetrating the crack really well. It's not going to hurt anything to get some down inside the exhaust manifold. And always, always apply the JB weld to the WHOLE crack, from end to end. None of the crack should still be visible when you are done applying it.
I wonder if driving a taper pin into it first would be good thing also?? I couldn't find header yet for mine so go some BlueMagic QuickSteel ThermoSteel from ebay. Will try when warms up more outside. Has 2400"F on package so??
There are two types of cracks to deal with: 1. A simple crack that does not split the entire manifold or even half of the manifold. 2. A cracked manifold where heat expansion will cause any compound to split - welding needed or replace the manifold.
Not judging him, he's just not doing it right and that's why it didn't work. I took (cast iron) manifold of, made the crack bigger in a V shape, drilled hole at the end of crack so it stops cracking, ultra cleaned the crack and pushed the JB in there and it works.
@@duncandonovan5270 nice man, that actually sounds like it might hold up. how long has it been working for ya? i just replaced the entire manifold at about $160.... which is expensive
If you read the instructions, it tells you to open the crack/hole to almost 1/8 so it can penetrate and seal. Otherwise, this was quite painful to watch. I have to say, the cleanliness and organization of his garage is impressive....
If your welding then yes but, this stuff isn't a guaranteed fix and if you do drill it out it could cause more problems if it doesn't hold up. If it doesn't hold up you'll have a bigger leak. Exhaust repairs can be a pain.
This jb weld works better if you grind the crack about 1/8" & then 1 coat of jb weld 1/16" thin, and before it dry Add 1 or 2 small pcs of steel screen to reinforce the crack, [ the screen you r going to use, its the same all the windows screen have] after it drys add 1 more coat of jb weld, But I recomend to weld it or replace the part
You can keep adding and adding coats of JB weld and still going to break even with the metal screen, heat from engine creates expansion and contraction because the type of joint, you can see that also the thred-olet is cracked.... so the best fix is to weld it using a welding machine.
I ordered this product and am still waiting for it to arrive. In the mean time I had some regular JB quick weld on hand, so I used that on an exhaust pipe leak between my drivers and passenger seat. 700 miles later I crawled under the car with a bottle of windex and sprayed the repair area, while I had a hose hooked to the exhaust of my shop vac to pressurize the exhaust system. No leaks like before. Amazing JB quick weld held up on an exhaust pipe, since it is only rated for 450 degrees. I'm sure an exhaust manifold gets much hotter than the exhaust pipe though.
Yea I’ve measured mine with a heat gun after driving at 718*F before. Mind you it’s a stainless steel turbo manifold, but no boost was applied so even then it was hot as hell
Yeah my muffler on my motorcycle was leaking around both ends, i used one container of this, i applied it in small layers letting it cure before applying the next layer. Then i let everything cure for over 24hrs. Holding up great so far. The instructions also say to really push the jb weld into the cracks and build up several layers. You may have done that but it didnt look like it
I wonder if it would work better if you followed the instructions for larger holes. They advise buttering a piece of fiberglass matt and laying it buttered-side down over the hole, and then buttering the upper side. The fiberglass would reinforce the paste.
A new manifold is the only dependable solution . Thanks for taking the time , to demonstrate , it's no good . People appreciate your unique personality,, you're awesome , dont change . When you judge somebody , someone else is judging you .
Define dependable. JB weld works excellent in a lot of situations and can hold up for years. And is obviously way way cheaper. Just resorting to the replacement is kind of dumb unless you have unlimited funds then go for it. This is like mechanic saying oh you need to replace rotors every time you do your brake pads it's the only safe option. But actually in reality, no.
@d-rockanomaly9243 I don't know in what universe jb weld works on cracked manifolds but I would stay there because it seems like a where anything is possible. Comparing turning your rotors to putting jb weld on your cracked manifold is silly . Go to the junkyard and get a used manifold but throwing money away on jbweld is throwing monet away and not getting a sensible solution I'm not rich but I'm not stupid .s a valve job and manifold is more expensive than a manifold . Durrrr. Thats when being poor cost even more money not doing the right repairs when you discover them can cost you even more money. Don't drive it catch a ride until you can fix it you always have a choice . That said I ve tried it all and I to would use jb weld to survive the moment it don't mean it's good or recommended sorry you are poor
If you tape a vacuum on the end of your exhaust and turn it on while applying the filler, it will help pull the filler into the crack deeper for a better seal
My man, just put jb weld on the crack😄! You are the cutest squeeky guy on RUclips! You need to have a channel on RUclips where someone follows you around all day! I would watch this!
cool video, I am still going to try this, i have 1996 honda civic with a crack, i think it sucks that the manifold and catalytic converter is the same unit. I do not know if I want to spend 800 dollars on a new manifold.
No it don’t work on my 22re headers exhaust, but now I must figure how to get it off the header exhaust nuts and bolts that I covered. I created more work on my disassembly. I putting new exhaust on if can get the JB weld off.
Looking at this crack I think it's a tough one because the oxy sensor will force the crack to widen because it is across tge sensor port. If anything would save this manifold I would think it needs to be stick welded with a good penetrating weld and then it might have a better chance of holding
Regarding what some commentators say about cleaning the surfaces all the way to silver metal color I'm asking how come that the putty didn't flake or came off anywhere ? Obviously it adhered well which means the preparation he did was good enough. Now let's talk about the 2nd crack. Was it on top of the original one or in a different location? If the latter, it means adhesion of the putty to metal is fine but is lacking strength to hold itself. Obviously the manifold suffered a dilation and the putty could NOT resist it. Lesson? Expand the original crack to 3-4 times wider, of course make sure all traces of dust are gone, fill the new opening with a glass-fiber piece of fabric and put some putty on the fabric before you force it into the crack. Now smear the area with the putty but in 2-3 hands each as thin as possible waiting to cure before each application. I can guarantee you it will hold all the way to 300 thousand miles.
Man I laughed hard because you are damm funny, I busted at gut when I saw the crack. At the same time I love that you posted this even-though it did not work. Many will only post here because it makes them look good; I’m actually one of these guys. Your a role model man! Keep sharing.
Thanks Welking - Thanks for taking the time. This is how we learn. More importantly, this is how we learn to decipher the thousands of 'products' we have out there. Was thinking about this sorta fix (in a quest to save $$$) - but i suppose because of your experience, ill take a different route. Peace out Brother.
@@mjv8507 nice. my first is Micah and middle is actually Jared. Last name isnt Vinson, but one of my bf names is??? either way - YO MY BRO!!! (how many micah J's can their really be) I thought I was the only one but I welcome ya.
Its re-cracking because of the vibration of the two broken pieces ....try the JB weld putty that can be applied as a more thicker application to keep both sides firm
Might have worked better with a few layers of fine wire mesh like a bug screen. Apply with an acid brush. Thanks for giving us all a little chuckle !! 😁
Exact same car and crack in exhaust manifold. Used JB extreme heat as well. Same failure in under 1000 miles. I even used a grinder to clean up and prepare the surface. just reapplied it. Takes 5 minutes. But, the crack is growing slightly.
I just used regular JB weld to put the handle on my new grill, poorly made, couldn't get both screws in at once (Char Broil table top) hole alignment was off, so I bought the JB weld and the next size smaller screws, put JB in the hole sockets, coated the screws, then coated all the exterior parts for a solid fit, I doubt if I'll get over 300F, see if it holds...
You tried it but no good. Contact the company to get a refund on their crappy product. Your video was good and let people know about this product. Thank you Welking for taking the time to make video.
You haven't given anyone false hope for providing an honest review, it might work on pinholes and tiny cracks but for a full crack right through like yours I think you would need a tonne of it which would probably cost more than a new manifold
Jb weld is a very good product. However the vibration from the motor may have contributed to the cracking of the repaired area. Try the exaust header wrap thats used on motorcycle pipe s that should really help out. Good vid thx for sharing.
I tried jb weld and it doesn’t work,,, I ended going to a muffler shop and have the manifold welded. It passed smog. My Honda has 353000 and still going strong ,,,, happy miles ahead!!!!!!!
Duplicated this on a cracked manifold. On mine, it cracked during cooldown after a long drive. Fortunately that long drive resulted in an emissions pass😁. Seems like the material becomes elastic upon heating, resulting in a bubbling up. It probably thins out resulting in cracking when the temp changes. For me it worked in a pinch to stay on the road, but count on a new manifold shortly after.
10:08 did you let it dry? Also. , did you check if an engine mount is fucked? Because if that’s the case. That’s how it cracked in the first place. And if you didn’t replace the engine mount. It will just crack the JB weld. Immediately
I don’t think head is what cracked the job weld because it don’t come off or anything it’s made for head not the pressure of vibration or whatever caused it to crack so in my case I think it might work
Headers / exhaust manifolds had the most extreme heat and pressure. Selling it is a case by case situation. Same person can do it and have it work on one car and not another. No guarantees. I would try sanding the loose rust off and leaving it where it looks a little discolored and not so smooth. Sometimes this works a little better as these type of sealers get better grip on the pores . I do this on the mufflers and down stream cats. As they are a little cooler. Usually works good unless its a large repair. Sanding to the point of shiney metal doesn't give you a great grip as people may think. A body guy wouldn't prime over shiney metal. It needs to be dull. You can try to dull it with a very fine sandpaper. 600 grit and up. But, if its a crack then you really need to try and force it into the crack first, then when it cures a layer over the area and perhaps another layer but, spread over past the area previously done. That way it is trying to wrap around the area a little. Much like gripping with your hand over an area as to putting your finger over it. Nothing really will fix these types of cracks like welding. But, its worth a shot
I had my first repair on my 2002 Civic on the exhaust manifold look like this. Then I applied another coat and it appears to be holding. Time will tell, but I'm not holding my breath. If it doesn't work, it just needs welded
Exactly, you can't apply something to dirty metal and expect it to work. Almost all instructions tells you to use it on " clean or cleaned " metal in order for it to stick to it. Putting it on just the outside surface is about as effective as using a band aid.. and not removing the manifold and allowing for heat expansion as well as cooling is a big mistake.
I think the real problem is as you said before the design. As I said in one of my comments, I had an old dodge with a similar style exhaust manifold. I bought a replacement and was told by the service tech to be sure to torque the manifold in the correct mount bolt sequence to avoid cracking again. And to be sure and use new gaskets. If not done in the correct sequence it puts stress on the middle of the manifold and eventually it will split again. Other vehicles that had the same problems were the old Chevy Love pick ups, they were plagued with split manifolds, the reason was you had an aluminum head with a cast iron exhaust manifold, problem aluminum and iron react to heat differently. Anyway I hope you got your car fixed. :o)
Red Woods grind a "V" into the crack. and work that shit into the crack.. and maybe you would have a chance. . you messed up. . not the products fault. .
Welking Vue ive tried the quick steel on the same crack, and it didnt hold up, but it did say to clean the crack and bevel it first and i didnt do that. chip off the old stuff and try to sand into the crack a little to give the putty a good surface to grip and maybe try to let some quicksteel stay out and harden slightly so its thicker, and press it into the crack first so that it doesnt seep through when you put on the second coat. ill try the same and see if i can make a video. thanks!
You have to sand it until you see the metal! If you still seeing black red orange brow or any other color that is not the metal color (shining gray/silver) its doomed to fail from the start! Also do a proper weld don't use JB weld.
Run the car to heat the manafold up then Disconect the battery. Arc weld a stainless steel welding rod into it. Peen it out a bit then hook up the battery and heat it up again. You maybe able to tack weld it into position on the car but to do a proper job will require removal and definitely pre heat before welding. The JB weld is most likely intended to get you home or to repair shop temporary fix. The bigger question is why did it crack?.
That sucks I spent 7 years in the NAVY on submarines and we used JB weld sometime but in the end it cracked like yours . but it did get us long enough to fix it right. I agree you should try sometime else . I did find out that if you grind away the old stuff but with a small wheel not to damage it further . Do not get one of the ones on a drill that cause more damage. I also would save up money to replace it. But be careful removes it can open a big can of worms I would like to know what you did next. Keep up the great videos.
I just gonna pass the car on to someone else and let them know the problem they can decide if they want it or not. I had this car for many years already, it's time to get a new car. The miles is high I don't feel it's worth fixing. The car is still good and if I let it go, at least let it go in a good way by not giving someone a junk car, but a decent car.
How much are you asking for it? Maybe I know someone who would buy it. Depending where you are at. I still have a lot of NAVY friends all over the world.
I used some steel wool for my exhaust pipe after the catalytic converter. I used the regular JB Weld though as thats what I had at the crib. Actually I dont thinks its steel wool more like aluminum because it was from an off brand s.o.s. pad lol
thank you for your review. I'm going to give it a try on my engine. sorry to hear that it didn't work for you. did you end up fixing it if so what did you use?
Crack on JB Weld is still there on my car. I think the JB Weld crack doesn't parallel with the crack on the exhaust manifold. Looks like JB Weld has it's own cracks, so probably the crack on exhaust manifold is sealed up, I really don't know. If I try repairing any exhaust manifold again I would use QuikSteel instead.
Buddy you did shitty job admit that. Never put that thick layer of any sealer at one place , you are adding weight to vibrate , you should have used wire sander reason to leave clean groovy area to create stronger bond between two , use hair dryer or heat gun to speed up drying , prep clean with alcohol cloth before putting in weld, apply thin but cove at least 2 inches wide , it's liquid so it can go in to the crack, I can go on but still it will not hold coz it's on neck and threads Product is good but u ignored WHY it cracked ? Thickness ? Mass? Vibration? Engine mounts
Ha! i frikken love your video! you r hilarious and super real bro...keep making them and i will keep watchin'em. i learned a lot from this. keep it up. srsp
Ok i jist put jb weld on the egsost manifold it smoked off completly befor i pulled out of my parking spot it was for the 750 degree not sure if i should even try 1000 degrees or not
If you have a crack like this, and the cat is still good.. Remove the manifold and weld the cracks. The problem with the jb weld is that the crack is very unstable from side to side, and every time you run the car, the manifold is moving and going through heat cycles.
thanks for showing this video on how the typical crack of a 90s Honda Civic cannot really be repaired but hopefully it will be enough so you can pass inspection. just remove the shield on my 98 Honda Civic with 170000 miles original catalytic converter with California emissions. I have the same crack in the front of the O2 sensor and also the back that goes all the way down to the cat. I just need enough of the crack to be blocked so at higher RPMs air doesn't get sucked in to the manifold triggering the O2 sensor and running rich. check engine light catalytic converter efficiency code both O2 sensors fairly new. I reinforce the area with a washer on top of the J-B Weld along with some wire Twisted in a Criss-Cross pattern.. letting it dry now we'll see how it is on Sunday..
The crack may have deeper into the metal of the manifold. You only applied the JB to the outside of the manifold. The JB was a temporary fix. Manifold replacement would be a permanent fix. In California, you will not pass a smog with an exhaust leak. Thanks for the video!
Same thing happened to my XJ manifold. Used JB Weld and about the same time period is what it took the JB Weld to FALL off of mine lol Ended up just changing it out
JB Weld HighHeat Epoxy Stick 8291 might have worked. The Extremeheat 37901 is a non-psi rated filler & adhesive, not a bonding agent like the HighHeat stick rating is 600 PSI at 400ºF (if area properly prepped, and/grind metal and clean w/ non res. solvent) I haven't used the filler from JB Weld but the Thermosteel from Blue magic, if (and again) the area is properly prepped.. ( I use an angle grinder and brown disc till the metal is shining and then wipe or spray 91% alcohol on the area to clean and have not ever had a single issue with any of the big brands) But I can say the thermosteel I repaired a burner tube using all 3oz of it in a 150k BTU furnace, and have had no issues and that's under a clean and blue flame.. But there's no high pressure exerting force on it.. Think the water col is = to just 4 psi and thats spread out thru the rest of the tube.. Have not used the JB Weld filler, but the high heat metal epoxy on properly prepped area whcih this was still too dirty in this vid, works perfect and i think it would have worked there. HOWEVER.. That spot, Ive fixed 2 manifolds in that same spot in 2021 with a cheapass harbor freight stick welder on the lowest setting.. And while it looks like spatlter city, That crack is dead and the fix forever.. as is all the fkn splatter around the bead (the bead looks nice) Maybe I shoulda got a Millermatic 250 with a 30a spool gun with stimulus instead of 2 8balls, 2 hookers and a striper named Sue I kept as a live in housekeeper and toy for my old lady... Yeah.. About as real as the Miller Welder that's not in the shop.. Well.. the hookers and stripper arent real. Can't promise nobody went skiing.
I don't know about other years of Honda's, but from 96-00 they all crack. D16y8 manifold I had was cracked through. They're like the eBay tubular except cast iron. I've found 3 d16y7 manifolds like yours cracked in the same spot. It just happens I guess.
I tried something like this before on my exhaust and had the same result. A waste of time and money in my case and the same here too. Need to replace the manifold.
It didn’t work for me either it just cracked after I drove it I just ordered a replacement and I have to replace the o2 sensors now one is burnt due to being right next to the manifold
I had an old 1990 Dodge van that had a cracked exhaust manifold, split down the middle like you have. Best thing to do is spend the money and buy a new one. About the JB Weld Extreme Hear putty. I would have pulled the manifold and clean the actual crack surfaces first. Don't forget there has been carbon from the exhaust blowing through the crack leaving impurities on the surface of the crack. Just applying the putty on the outside of the two split pieces is like putting wood glue on the surface of two pieces of dirty wood, it won't hold. I don't know how good or bad JB Weld is but I had a buddy that bought an old service station hydraulic lift for cars. It was used and had a dent in the lift piston. To make a long story short, he used JB Weld to fill in the dent and then filed and sanded it then installed the lift in his garage floor and it worked perfect for many years.
Sometimes you have to try anyway. You never know, it might just work. It was good experience and now you have a little more knowledge on what to do with a grinder and a drill for prep work by some of the constructive comments before you add the JB Weld if you ever run into this again. Original crack was too far gone. When stuff like this cracks it's probably a known issue by that point and worth buying the new manifold because problem was probably corrected. A good example is the Chevy Trailblazer and Envoy manifold. The new ones allow for some flexibility.
You needed to put the JB weld on the entire crack. You left the ends untouched, leaving them free to expand/contract during heat cycles. Would've been best to get the ends and then sand them down so the flange wouldn't be ruined.
Hey everyone thanks for your comments and giving feedback. I no longer have this car I gave it away many years ago.
😮 I would have gladly bought it that blue is awesome
I've used JB weld for years. I've successively used JB weld to repair leaking fuel tanks and cracked oil pans. JB weld is good stuff. However, it's all about preparation. Use carb cleaner or acetone, paint thinner, or gasoline to clean your work surface. Sand and sand some more to rough up the surface so the JB weld will attach and stay attached. After you have cleaned the surface with some cleaner, ie: gas, carb cleaner, acetone, paint thinner, or whatever, then clean it again. Point being is to make sure the surface is super clean. Grinding a v-groove at the crack is a good idea, but not always necessary. When applying the JB weld, make sure you're penetrating the crack really well. It's not going to hurt anything to get some down inside the exhaust manifold. And always, always apply the JB weld to the WHOLE crack, from end to end. None of the crack should still be visible when you are done applying it.
Thanks for sharing the information.
I wonder if driving a taper pin into it first would be good thing also?? I couldn't find header yet for mine so go some BlueMagic QuickSteel ThermoSteel from ebay. Will try when warms up more outside. Has 2400"F on package so??
That was helpful as fuck to me.
Also as some have mentioned down here you seen some type of mesh along with the JB weld would probably help particularly in this situation
Ty
Protect this man at all cost, the world needs more like him... Peace and love to all ✌️
There are two types of cracks to deal with:
1. A simple crack that does not split the entire manifold or even half of the manifold.
2. A cracked manifold where heat expansion will cause any compound to split - welding needed or replace the manifold.
0:44 the sound of the electronic zoom on his handheld device was stimulating lol
i like nesquik the strawberry one
So racist, #chocolate milk matters!
Nostalgic as fuck
"I use this cotter pin to mix it"
After 2 sec:
"It's probably better not to use a cotter pin"
😆
Great video dude ✌
Thanks for the honest full review for those of us trying to learn to do stuff ourselves. Nicely done.
I would definitely buy tickets for your stand up comedy show, if you had one!! You're a natural!
Some experts recommend getting the crack a little bit wider and shoving the JB Weld down inside through the crack which the directions indicate
Thank you for this tip
good review.. I'm not sure why everyone is judging this man so hard. thanks I saved money because of this video.
The reason they are beating him up because of there millennals
Dan Green no it isnt lmao
Dude u can’t gunk it on you need to work it in there
Not judging him, he's just not doing it right and that's why it didn't work.
I took (cast iron) manifold of, made the crack bigger in a V shape, drilled hole at the end of crack so it stops cracking, ultra cleaned the crack and pushed the JB in there and it works.
@@duncandonovan5270 nice man, that actually sounds like it might hold up. how long has it been working for ya? i just replaced the entire manifold at about $160.... which is expensive
Video: "It didn't really work"
Commenters: "Thanks, I can't wait to try it myself!"
If you read the instructions, it tells you to open the crack/hole to almost 1/8 so it can penetrate and seal. Otherwise, this was quite painful to watch. I have to say, the cleanliness and organization of his garage is impressive....
If your welding then yes but, this stuff isn't a guaranteed fix and if you do drill it out it could cause more problems if it doesn't hold up. If it doesn't hold up you'll have a bigger leak. Exhaust repairs can be a pain.
Open the crack to penetrate. = )
This jb weld works better if you grind the crack about 1/8" & then 1 coat of jb weld
1/16" thin, and before it dry
Add 1 or 2 small pcs of
steel screen to reinforce the crack, [ the screen you r going to use, its the same all the windows screen have]
after it drys add 1 more coat of jb weld,
But I recomend to weld it or replace the part
He didn't use it properly
You can keep adding and adding coats of JB weld and still going to break even with the metal screen, heat from engine creates expansion and contraction because the type of joint, you can see that also the thred-olet is cracked.... so the best fix is to weld it using a welding machine.
I used a q-tip to mix and apply. Worked pretty good.
I need some jb weld, I'm cracking up 🤣🤣😂🤯😊
@@djanebybarbie2267 u need some JB weld to keep those fluids in
Hot car. Love the boost gauge without the boost.
😂😂😂
it's a tacho gauge, he doesn't have a tacho on the oem cluster
I ordered this product and am still waiting for it to arrive. In the mean time I had some regular JB quick weld on hand, so I used that on an exhaust pipe leak between my drivers and passenger seat. 700 miles later I crawled under the car with a bottle of windex and sprayed the repair area, while I had a hose hooked to the exhaust of my shop vac to pressurize the exhaust system. No leaks like before. Amazing JB quick weld held up on an exhaust pipe, since it is only rated for 450 degrees. I'm sure an exhaust manifold gets much hotter than the exhaust pipe though.
Yea I’ve measured mine with a heat gun after driving at 718*F before. Mind you it’s a stainless steel turbo manifold, but no boost was applied so even then it was hot as hell
Yeah my muffler on my motorcycle was leaking around both ends, i used one container of this, i applied it in small layers letting it cure before applying the next layer. Then i let everything cure for over 24hrs. Holding up great so far. The instructions also say to really push the jb weld into the cracks and build up several layers. You may have done that but it didnt look like it
You probably applied it better than I did.
I wonder if it would work better if you followed the instructions for larger holes. They advise buttering a piece of fiberglass matt and laying it buttered-side down over the hole, and then buttering the upper side. The fiberglass would reinforce the paste.
A new manifold is the only dependable solution . Thanks for taking the time , to demonstrate , it's no good . People appreciate your unique personality,, you're awesome , dont change .
When you judge somebody , someone else is judging you .
Thanks for watching!
Define dependable. JB weld works excellent in a lot of situations and can hold up for years. And is obviously way way cheaper. Just resorting to the replacement is kind of dumb unless you have unlimited funds then go for it. This is like mechanic saying oh you need to replace rotors every time you do your brake pads it's the only safe option. But actually in reality, no.
@d-rockanomaly9243 I don't know in what universe jb weld works on cracked manifolds but I would stay there because it seems like a where anything is possible. Comparing turning your rotors to putting jb weld on your cracked manifold is silly . Go to the junkyard and get a used manifold but throwing money away on jbweld is throwing monet away and not getting a sensible solution I'm not rich but I'm not stupid .s a valve job and manifold is more expensive than a manifold . Durrrr. Thats when being poor cost even more money not doing the right repairs when you discover them can cost you even more money. Don't drive it catch a ride until you can fix it you always have a choice . That said I ve tried it all and I to would use jb weld to survive the moment it don't mean it's good or recommended sorry you are poor
This guy is truly awesome
If you tape a vacuum on the end of your exhaust and turn it on while applying the filler, it will help pull the filler into the crack deeper for a better seal
I just came up with the same idea a couple weeks back. Great minds think alike!
He seems very kind. I liked this video and I was curious about the jb weld high heat epoxy 😊
I hear some kind of noise like predator is there next to you
My man, just put jb weld on the crack😄! You are the cutest squeeky guy on RUclips! You need to have a channel on RUclips where someone follows you around all day! I would watch this!
He is one groovy guy. Paper brush. Why not? Well I think we learned why. Comic value = priceless.
cool video, I am still going to try this, i have 1996 honda civic with a crack, i think it sucks that the manifold and catalytic converter is the same unit. I do not know if I want to spend 800 dollars on a new manifold.
Buy a header without the cat then cut the cat off the old unit and clamp it to the new header
Or go to a salvage yard
@@devowts5316 or use jb weld lol
I can appreciate the extra salsa dance steps on the side, great moves
I love the way he is never not moving
No it don’t work on my 22re headers exhaust, but now I must figure how to get it off the header exhaust nuts and bolts that I covered. I created more work on my disassembly. I putting new exhaust on if can get the JB weld off.
Looking at this crack I think it's a tough one because the oxy sensor will force the crack to widen because it is across tge sensor port. If anything would save this manifold I would think it needs to be stick welded with a good penetrating weld and then it might have a better chance of holding
Regarding what some commentators say about cleaning the surfaces all the way to silver metal color I'm asking how come that the putty didn't flake or came off anywhere ? Obviously it adhered well which means the preparation he did was good enough.
Now let's talk about the 2nd crack. Was it on top of the original one or in a different location? If the latter, it means adhesion of the putty to metal is fine but is lacking strength to hold itself. Obviously the manifold suffered a dilation and the putty could NOT resist it.
Lesson? Expand the original crack to 3-4 times wider, of course make sure all traces of dust are gone, fill the new opening with a glass-fiber piece of fabric and put some putty on the fabric before you force it into the crack. Now smear the area with the putty but in 2-3 hands each as thin as possible waiting to cure before each application. I can guarantee you it will hold all the way to 300 thousand miles.
Awesome thinking and ideas.
@@WelkingVue JB does say to make sure the crack is 1/8th of an inch
Man I laughed hard because you are damm funny, I busted at gut when I saw the crack. At the same time I love that you posted this even-though it did not work. Many will only post here because it makes them look good; I’m actually one of these guys. Your a role model man! Keep sharing.
Cool comment, thanks.
Thanks Welking - Thanks for taking the time. This is how we learn. More importantly, this is how we learn to decipher the thousands of 'products' we have out there. Was thinking about this sorta fix (in a quest to save $$$) - but i suppose because of your experience, ill take a different route. Peace out Brother.
Thanks for watching.
Soooo. My 1st name is Micah and middle name is Jarad... If your last name is Vinson, you are my long lost twin.....
@@mjv8507 nice. my first is Micah and middle is actually Jared. Last name isnt Vinson, but one of my bf names is??? either way - YO MY BRO!!! (how many micah J's can their really be) I thought I was the only one but I welcome ya.
Its re-cracking because of the vibration of the two broken pieces ....try the JB weld putty that can be applied as a more thicker application to keep both sides firm
Need to drill small hole at the end of the crack to stop it from growing, relieves the stress poin
Might have worked better with a few layers of fine wire mesh like a bug screen.
Apply with an acid brush.
Thanks for giving us all a little chuckle !! 😁
“Apply an acid brush” u my friend are a godsend! Of course it seems obvious now, thanks!
Oh, and fine wire mesh! Yes! The acid wash I’d NEVER heard of.
well, its official. i have now seen everything on youtube.
Use Furnace cement which can get off line or at most hardware stores that carry Furnace parts
going to try that out.
tried and no luck.. i did do it in winter times though. but gave er 3-4 days to cure and no luck.
Directions say enlarge crack to 1/8 inch. You didnt read the directions! O2 sensor install could crack it again too!
Exact same car and crack in exhaust manifold. Used JB extreme heat as well. Same failure in under 1000 miles. I even used a grinder to clean up and prepare the surface. just reapplied it. Takes 5 minutes. But, the crack is growing slightly.
I just used regular JB weld to put the handle on my new grill, poorly made, couldn't get both screws in at once (Char Broil table top) hole alignment was off, so I bought the JB weld and the next size smaller screws, put JB in the hole sockets, coated the screws, then coated all the exterior parts for a solid fit, I doubt if I'll get over 300F, see if it holds...
I love real videos with real results. Great job
Thanks for watching.
Bro your standing sway walk is elite tier bro 🔥 swaggin
It looks like you have a crack also where the exhaust manifold connects to the engine. 5:35 into the video I think you can see it
Try and use fiberglass mesh or steel screen in the mix helps with cracking.
Great video bro, don’t listen to anybody making fun. Good review.
Thanks Harvey!
I was half expecting an origami brush when he pulled out the paper.
I think that it would be better to use a furnace cement to seal hot places even before the catalytic converter and the exhaust pipe lines.
You tried it but no good. Contact the company to get a refund on their crappy product. Your video was good and let people know about this product. Thank you Welking for taking the time to make video.
This is exactly what I was looking for, thank you
💀💀💀💀💀
You haven't given anyone false hope for providing an honest review, it might work on pinholes and tiny cracks but for a full crack right through like yours I think you would need a tonne of it which would probably cost more than a new manifold
This needs to go viral.
Jb weld is a very good product. However the vibration from the motor may have contributed to the cracking of the repaired area. Try the exaust header wrap thats used on motorcycle pipe s that should really help out. Good vid thx for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
I tried jb weld and it doesn’t work,,, I ended going to a muffler shop and have the manifold welded. It passed smog. My Honda has 353000 and still going strong ,,,, happy miles ahead!!!!!!!
If I ever have to deal with this again I probably do that too. Wasted time trying find the part at junk yard.
Duplicated this on a cracked manifold. On mine, it cracked during cooldown after a long drive. Fortunately that long drive resulted in an emissions pass😁. Seems like the material becomes elastic upon heating, resulting in a bubbling up. It probably thins out resulting in cracking when the temp changes. For me it worked in a pinch to stay on the road, but count on a new manifold shortly after.
Thank you for the video. I had the exact same results. Got to replace the manifold at the end.
10:08 did you let it dry? Also. , did you check if an engine mount is fucked? Because if that’s the case. That’s how it cracked in the first place. And if you didn’t replace the engine mount. It will just crack the JB weld. Immediately
It's so hard to find good comedy today. I'm literally crying. I hope you will produce more videos like this. Nice job.
Thanks for watching!
@@WelkingVue have you tried using heat tape with the JB compound? It will prevent from cracking
Didn't try that. I don't have this car no more.
Thanks for sharing this with us.
this is how half of us would do this lol
I don’t think head is what cracked the job weld because it don’t come off or anything it’s made for head not the pressure of vibration or whatever caused it to crack so in my case I think it might work
Headers / exhaust manifolds had the most extreme heat and pressure. Selling it is a case by case situation. Same person can do it and have it work on one car and not another. No guarantees. I would try sanding the loose rust off and leaving it where it looks a little discolored and not so smooth. Sometimes this works a little better as these type of sealers get better grip on the pores . I do this on the mufflers and down stream cats. As they are a little cooler. Usually works good unless its a large repair. Sanding to the point of shiney metal doesn't give you a great grip as people may think. A body guy wouldn't prime over shiney metal. It needs to be dull. You can try to dull it with a very fine sandpaper. 600 grit and up. But, if its a crack then you really need to try and force it into the crack first, then when it cures a layer over the area and perhaps another layer but, spread over past the area previously done. That way it is trying to wrap around the area a little. Much like gripping with your hand over an area as to putting your finger over it. Nothing really will fix these types of cracks like welding. But, its worth a shot
I had my first repair on my 2002 Civic on the exhaust manifold look like this. Then I applied another coat and it appears to be holding. Time will tell, but I'm not holding my breath. If it doesn't work, it just needs welded
Without cleansing surfaces down to bare native metal and compensating for expansion, that job was guaranteed to fail quickly.
Exactly, you can't apply something to dirty metal and expect it to work. Almost all instructions tells you to use it on " clean or cleaned " metal in order for it to stick to it. Putting it on just the outside surface is about as effective as using a band aid.. and not removing the manifold and allowing for heat expansion as well as cooling is a big mistake.
It did stick on good. The problem was the JB Weld cracked.
I think the real problem is as you said before the design. As I said in one of my comments, I had an old dodge with a similar style exhaust manifold. I bought a replacement and was told by the service tech to be sure to torque the manifold in the correct mount bolt sequence to avoid cracking again. And to be sure and use new gaskets. If not done in the correct sequence it puts stress on the middle of the manifold and eventually it will split again. Other vehicles that had the same problems were the old Chevy Love pick ups, they were plagued with split manifolds, the reason was you had an aluminum head with a cast iron exhaust manifold, problem aluminum and iron react to heat differently.
Anyway I hope you got your car fixed. :o)
Red Woods grind a "V" into the crack. and work that shit into the crack.. and maybe you would have a chance. . you messed up. . not the products fault. .
www.gofundme.com/helpingvue
That sucks. Thanks for the warning.
I think QuikSteel High Temperature would work better.
Welking Vue ive tried the quick steel on the same crack, and it didnt hold up, but it did say to clean the crack and bevel it first and i didnt do that. chip off the old stuff and try to sand into the crack a little to give the putty a good surface to grip and maybe try to let some quicksteel stay out and harden slightly so its thicker, and press it into the crack first so that it doesnt seep through when you put on the second coat. ill try the same and see if i can make a video. thanks!
Thanks for the information.
You have to sand it until you see the metal! If you still seeing black red orange brow or any other color that is not the metal color (shining gray/silver) its doomed to fail from the start! Also do a proper weld don't use JB weld.
www.gofundme.com/helpingvue
Thank you sir for a good honest review of what could happen using this product. Keep well, regards from Ireland ☘️👍
Thank You!
Run the car to heat the manafold up then Disconect the battery. Arc weld a stainless steel welding rod into it. Peen it out a bit then hook up the battery and heat it up again.
You maybe able to tack weld it into position on the car but to do a proper job will require removal and definitely pre heat before welding.
The JB weld is most likely intended to get you home or to repair shop temporary fix. The bigger question is why did it crack?.
Τhis glue is 2 components, if I mix it all in the cup , and I don't use it all, will the rest dry in the cup ?
That sucks I spent 7 years in the NAVY on submarines and we used JB weld sometime but in the end it cracked like yours . but it did get us long enough to fix it right. I agree you should try sometime else . I did find out that if you grind away the old stuff but with a small wheel not to damage it further . Do not get one of the ones on a drill that cause more damage. I also would save up money to replace it. But be careful removes it can open a big can of worms I would like to know what you did next. Keep up the great videos.
I just gonna pass the car on to someone else and let them know the problem they can decide if they want it or not. I had this car for many years already, it's time to get a new car. The miles is high I don't feel it's worth fixing. The car is still good and if I let it go, at least let it go in a good way by not giving someone a junk car, but a decent car.
ncrdisabled Submarine vet JB Weld on a submarine???!!!! WOW!!
Looks like the people I wanted to give the car to didn't want it. I gonna either continue repairing or sell it or put it as planned non operation.
How much are you asking for it? Maybe I know someone who would buy it. Depending where you are at. I still have a lot of NAVY friends all over the world.
Yep just for quick repair but never leave it on . It also is not very often in my 7 years I used it maybe 6 times
I like this guy, he's funny
I used some steel wool for my exhaust pipe after the catalytic converter. I used the regular JB Weld though as thats what I had at the crib. Actually I dont thinks its steel wool more like aluminum because it was from an off brand s.o.s. pad lol
Nice video! You know you could have paused it at any time while filming to use the restroom. Lol
thank you for your review. I'm going to give it a try on my engine. sorry to hear that it didn't work for you. did you end up fixing it if so what did you use?
Crack on JB Weld is still there on my car. I think the JB Weld crack doesn't parallel with the crack on the exhaust manifold. Looks like JB Weld has it's own cracks, so probably the crack on exhaust manifold is sealed up, I really don't know. If I try repairing any exhaust manifold again I would use QuikSteel instead.
I used the Quick Steel on my gas tank TWICE, and it didn't work. Your job is different, so it might work! Good lock!
Thank you!
Buddy you did shitty job admit that. Never put that thick layer of any sealer at one place , you are adding weight to vibrate , you should have used wire sander reason to leave clean groovy area to create stronger bond between two , use hair dryer or heat gun to speed up drying , prep clean with alcohol cloth before putting in weld, apply thin but cove at least 2 inches wide , it's liquid so it can go in to the crack, I can go on but still it will not hold coz it's on neck and threads
Product is good but u ignored WHY it cracked ? Thickness ? Mass? Vibration? Engine mounts
This is a good test. Now we know what to expect.
Ha! i frikken love your video! you r hilarious and super real bro...keep making them and i will keep watchin'em. i learned a lot from this. keep it up. srsp
yeah the best one is quicksteel extreme heat the stick. not the orange tub
This could have worked if you add some fiver glass to the patch; cloth or loose fiber. make sure to saturate the cloth or fiber with the JB.
I agree. Dremel tool acetone perhaps, and disposable gloves to contour the surfaces
Did this nigga just say he drove 220000 miles since the crack happened
Slamd Yati yes
😳I thought the same thing!,😂
It was around 219,000 when he repaired it and 220,000 after driving, so he put around 1,000 miles on the repair.
Ok i jist put jb weld on the egsost manifold it smoked off completly befor i pulled out of my parking spot it was for the 750 degree not sure if i should even try 1000 degrees or not
That repair is called a band aid....but you did try and made a vid. Prep is key in repairs.
Good attempt, but I think a new exhaust manifold is in order.
If you have a crack like this, and the cat is still good.. Remove the manifold and weld the cracks. The problem with the jb weld is that the crack is very unstable from side to side, and every time you run the car, the manifold is moving and going through heat cycles.
thanks for showing this video on how the typical crack of a 90s Honda Civic cannot really be repaired but hopefully it will be enough so you can pass inspection. just remove the shield on my 98 Honda Civic with 170000 miles original catalytic converter with California emissions. I have the same crack in the front of the O2 sensor and also the back that goes all the way down to the cat. I just need enough of the crack to be blocked so at higher RPMs air doesn't get sucked in to the manifold triggering the O2 sensor and running rich. check engine light catalytic converter efficiency code both O2 sensors fairly new. I reinforce the area with a washer on top of the J-B Weld along with some wire Twisted in a Criss-Cross pattern.. letting it dry now we'll see how it is on Sunday..
You'll probably know what the real deal is after driving for a few days or weeks. Good luck on that.
what happened? did it hold?
The crack may have deeper into the metal of the manifold. You only applied the JB to the outside of the manifold. The JB was a temporary fix. Manifold replacement would be a permanent fix. In California, you will not pass a smog with an exhaust leak.
Thanks for the video!
Same thing happened to my XJ manifold. Used JB Weld and about the same time period is what it took the JB Weld to FALL off of mine lol
Ended up just changing it out
JB Weld HighHeat Epoxy Stick 8291 might have worked. The Extremeheat 37901 is a non-psi rated filler & adhesive, not a bonding agent like the HighHeat stick rating is 600 PSI at 400ºF (if area properly prepped, and/grind metal and clean w/ non res. solvent) I haven't used the filler from JB Weld but the Thermosteel from Blue magic, if (and again) the area is properly prepped.. ( I use an angle grinder and brown disc till the metal is shining and then wipe or spray 91% alcohol on the area to clean and have not ever had a single issue with any of the big brands) But I can say the thermosteel I repaired a burner tube using all 3oz of it in a 150k BTU furnace, and have had no issues and that's under a clean and blue flame.. But there's no high pressure exerting force on it.. Think the water col is = to just 4 psi and thats spread out thru the rest of the tube.. Have not used the JB Weld filler, but the high heat metal epoxy on properly prepped area whcih this was still too dirty in this vid, works perfect and i think it would have worked there. HOWEVER.. That spot, Ive fixed 2 manifolds in that same spot in 2021 with a cheapass harbor freight stick welder on the lowest setting.. And while it looks like spatlter city, That crack is dead and the fix forever.. as is all the fkn splatter around the bead (the bead looks nice) Maybe I shoulda got a Millermatic 250 with a 30a spool gun with stimulus instead of 2 8balls, 2 hookers and a striper named Sue I kept as a live in housekeeper and toy for my old lady... Yeah.. About as real as the Miller Welder that's not in the shop.. Well.. the hookers and stripper arent real. Can't promise nobody went skiing.
good review, prob best to get it welded or a used one.
I don't know about other years of Honda's, but from 96-00 they all crack. D16y8 manifold I had was cracked through. They're like the eBay tubular except cast iron. I've found 3 d16y7 manifolds like yours cracked in the same spot. It just happens I guess.
I tried something like this before on my exhaust and had the same result. A waste of time and money in my case and the same here too. Need to replace the manifold.
It didn’t work for me either it just cracked after I drove it I just ordered a replacement and I have to replace the o2 sensors now one is burnt due to being right next to the manifold
I like your accent, makes you sound very kind😊
I had an old 1990 Dodge van that had a cracked exhaust manifold, split down the middle like you have. Best thing to do is spend the money and buy a new one.
About the JB Weld Extreme Hear putty. I would have pulled the manifold and clean the actual crack surfaces first. Don't forget there has been carbon from the exhaust blowing through the crack leaving impurities on the surface of the crack. Just applying the putty on the outside of the two split pieces is like putting wood glue on the surface of two pieces of dirty wood, it won't hold.
I don't know how good or bad JB Weld is but I had a buddy that bought an old service station hydraulic lift for cars. It was used and had a dent in the lift piston. To make a long story short, he used JB Weld to fill in the dent and then filed and sanded it then installed the lift in his garage floor and it worked perfect for many years.
Thanks for sharing.
Sometimes you have to try anyway. You never know, it might just work. It was good experience and now you have a little more knowledge on what to do with a grinder and a drill for prep work by some of the constructive comments before you add the JB Weld if you ever run into this again. Original crack was too far gone. When stuff like this cracks it's probably a known issue by that point and worth buying the new manifold because problem was probably corrected. A good example is the Chevy Trailblazer and Envoy manifold. The new ones allow for some flexibility.
You are right. I wanted to try and see if it work.
Did it work for you after all ?
lol these videos keep getting better. thanks man.. lolol
Good review and test. Would love to hear from dudes at JB Weld.
When he showed the cotter pins he used I burst out laughing, lol
Dey R car-pens,lol!
thx for your vid but what I can see here is more like split manifold than little crack, this two parts of manifold would stretch and shrink independly
You needed to put the JB weld on the entire crack. You left the ends untouched, leaving them free to expand/contract during heat cycles. Would've been best to get the ends and then sand them down so the flange wouldn't be ruined.
Sounds logical.
Probably should've went light, and added more layers after curing a bit. Layer after layer
Too much pressure in that part of the manifold plus the engine mountings are probably shot so its flexing. Good vid. Thanks!