The compressor was super loud, so I just confirmed that the unit did have the right amount of refrigerant in the system. Once I knew that it did have the right amount of gas, I checked the eev’s. Once I knew they were fine, I just replaced the compressor. Didn’t even get my megger out. I put the new compressor in and and was super quiet and hasn’t missed a beat since. I also just visually checked to make sure the indoor and outdoor fans were running.
@@phillichillin1716 on this video I just went around to each indoor unit and made sure they were pumping out cold air. They were, so I just replaced the faulty compressor knowing all components were working fine (except compressor). However if you want to be thorough, there are heaps of videos online on how to check your eev’s using your multimeter. Probably not a bad thing to learn if you work on Daikin a lot. Thanks mate
@@phillichillin1716 f3 error is just the discharge pipe temp being to high. Iv seen this caused by faulty comp and also low refrigerant. Most important thing is just check the refrigerant charge
Is this the same unit you changed PCB, Fan motor & compressor after 2nd compressor failure? I've Daikin 1.5ton Inverter split AC with similar problem. F3 error comes on display & compressor gets too hot with same noise. It pulls ~9-10Amps. The rated amps is 5.9 Amps for this machine... The machine starts & compressor runs at full load for 5-8 mins then It shuts off. After few mins the fan motor also stops. It gets too hot to touch & makes this same noise. After few mins it again starts & run for another 5-8 mins & stops. This cycle repeats till F3 shows on display of indoor. Gas running pressure shows 80-90psi. Gas was recharged with correct weight. But same problem remained. Unit is 4.5 years old with temprature set at 23-24 C. I am from India & temp reaches 44C daily, for the whole summer. When this problem first came AC was set at 23C. Another thing I noted from spec sheet was this machine was designed to work in temp range of 10-46C. Don't know if has any significance in my situation or not. Also my daily running for this unit is ~15-18 hrs daily for ~5 months in a year but temp set at 24C. What are your thoughts???
So I went to this job almost a year ago to the day. The unit was installed well and the pipe run was not long at all. After I confirmed that the unit was correctly charged with refrigerant and the EEV’s were fine, I decided to replace the compressor, PCB and the fan. The only reason I replaced all three parts is because it was within warranty. Once I replaced everything, the system ran fine. Three months after this, I had to return to the job because the new compressor had failed. I checked everything and couldn’t find anything wrong. So I replaced the compressor again under warranty. It’s been 9 months and the system is still working perfect. This location would not get anywhere near as hot as where you are. In my case I honestly just think the compressors were both faulty. Sounds crazy but I checked everything else. In your case, I would, 1. Make sure the pipe runs aren’t to long. 2. Make sure the unit is correctly charged with the right amount of refrigerant. 3. Check the EEVS. Make sure they aren’t faulty. If all this checks out. I’m confident it’s just the compressor that is faulty.
@@maracservices Line-set is only ~18-19 ft from ODU to Indoor Unit was recharged with exact gas wt. after existing gas was released. (In India there is no concept of R32 recovery, even Daikin Tech do not recover gas and yes I hate this. Maybe 'coz R32 is cheap here @Rs. 500-600 per kg, ~9-11 AUD) EEV's are working since there is cooling & it increases for the time the compressor is running albeit its not much. Running pressure remains at 80-90psi & standing is at 250psi. Will try to investigate this some more just to be sure... Could there be an issue with the compressor working temp range of 10-46C. For my country I do not think its a good working range. What is your opinion? Also could this fault be traced to a faulty PCB as well which resulted in compressor failure eventually. A new PCB was only used once to check if the PCB is faulty but the problem remained so the Daikin Auth. Tech said they will try with another PCB. They didn't used Inverter tester to check the output from PCB (UVW Tester).
@@HailStonE999 I personally don’t think it’s a faulty PCB. The problem is that the discharge temp is getting to high. If the compressor is making a loud noise like the one in the vid then I’m certain that the compressor is faulty. If you have checked that the line-set is fine (all linesets added up shouldn’t be longer then the rated pipe length) and the gas charge is fine. Which is sounds like you have. Then I’d go through actually testing the EEVs with a multimeter. The Daikin app shows you how. Basically the problem is the compressor. The reason I’d check the EEVs is to rule out any underlying problems. Just because the indoors are cooling doesn’t mean the EEV’s aren’t faulty. In my case, it was just the compressor that was faulty for no reason. It happens. In regards to the temp, if it is regularly above the rated temp range and the unit runs a lot (which it does) then that could definitely be the cause. in conclusion, the compressor is faulty, just rule out the EEV’s aren’t also faulty by using the Daikin app and a multimeter. It might even be worth looking at units that have a higher temp range. It’s crazy how hot it gets over there.
@@maracservices Hi. Can a PCB damage a compressor into making this noise ??? Daikin Authorized Service Technician was adamant since beginning that its the PCB which was damaged.. They installed another new PCB but the same problem came. The compressor was still making noise, pulling high Amps & overheating. As usual the cooling was not effective. Then it tripped. It again started after some time & similar cycle repeated. They told me its the New PCB which is also faulty & another PCB was ordered. This 2nd PCB again gave same fault of compressor tripping with high Amps, Overheat & noise. This time they removed & reconnected connectors. Unit was started & there was a loud shorting noise from their PCB. The ODU stopped completely. No compressor + no ODU fan running... Now they told me they will have to take the complete Indoor + ODU to service center to check the unit. After one week they told me the compressor is all right & a 3rd PCB is ordered to check the machine. After another 14 days they told me the AC is working but the Compressor is still taking high Amps and is indeed faulty. So they got a new compressor & used this 3rd PCB. The machine worked normally now. They ran it for 3-4 hrs & there was no problem.... I am insisting that my PCB was never at fault & is in working condition since the last I used it gave me F3 error & since then the unit was never powered up with my PCB. But they are adamant that the PCB is also faulty & needs replacement along with the compressor. Their reason is that since 2nd PCB died after installing in my unit hence every PCB installed before that is also now faulty.... The compressor was changed under warranty but there is no warranty on PCB & it costs INR 11.5k. (~200 AUD)... They told me that if they connect my PCB it will not work & then their PCB will also get damaged when installed after removing my PCB.... Compressor can also get damaged. Are they taking me on a ride here just to sell me their PCB ???? If my PCB is faulty then is there any way their PCB will become faulty on connecting or can it damage a compressor.....
@@HailStonE999 I can’t believe they changed the PCB so many times. F3 is a discharge pipe temperature sensor fault and if the unit is pulling high amps it’s clearly the compressor that is faulty. A faulty compressor can take out an Inverter PCB and a faulty Inverter PCB can take out a DC compressor. These things are very temperamental. If the unit is under warranty then they should just replace everything that is faulty. In Australia, if a customer has an air conditioner that is under warranty then I just order what ever I want and Daikin don’t ask any questions
What would your next step be, Would you test the windings or use a megger to further diagnose the compressor? Or just straight replace it
The compressor was super loud, so I just confirmed that the unit did have the right amount of refrigerant in the system. Once I knew that it did have the right amount of gas, I checked the eev’s. Once I knew they were fine, I just replaced the compressor. Didn’t even get my megger out. I put the new compressor in and and was super quiet and hasn’t missed a beat since.
I also just visually checked to make sure the indoor and outdoor fans were running.
@@maracservices nice one mate thanks for quick response
@@maracservices when you say check eev’s, do you mean to check if they’re letting refrigerant through? Sorry I’m an apprentice learning 🤣
@@phillichillin1716 on this video I just went around to each indoor unit and made sure they were pumping out cold air. They were, so I just replaced the faulty compressor knowing all components were working fine (except compressor).
However if you want to be thorough, there are heaps of videos online on how to check your eev’s using your multimeter. Probably not a bad thing to learn if you work on Daikin a lot. Thanks mate
@@phillichillin1716 f3 error is just the discharge pipe temp being to high. Iv seen this caused by faulty comp and also low refrigerant. Most important thing is just check the refrigerant charge
Compressor failed twice? You may have an oil return issue.
Is this the same unit you changed PCB, Fan motor & compressor after 2nd compressor failure?
I've Daikin 1.5ton Inverter split AC with similar problem. F3 error comes on display & compressor gets too hot with same noise. It pulls ~9-10Amps. The rated amps is 5.9 Amps for this machine... The machine starts & compressor runs at full load for 5-8 mins then It shuts off. After few mins the fan motor also stops. It gets too hot to touch & makes this same noise. After few mins it again starts & run for another 5-8 mins & stops. This cycle repeats till F3 shows on display of indoor. Gas running pressure shows 80-90psi. Gas was recharged with correct weight. But same problem remained. Unit is 4.5 years old with temprature set at 23-24 C. I am from India & temp reaches 44C daily, for the whole summer. When this problem first came AC was set at 23C.
Another thing I noted from spec sheet was this machine was designed to work in temp range of 10-46C. Don't know if has any significance in my situation or not. Also my daily running for this unit is ~15-18 hrs daily for ~5 months in a year but temp set at 24C.
What are your thoughts???
So I went to this job almost a year ago to the day. The unit was installed well and the pipe run was not long at all. After I confirmed that the unit was correctly charged with refrigerant and the EEV’s were fine, I decided to replace the compressor, PCB and the fan. The only reason I replaced all three parts is because it was within warranty. Once I replaced everything, the system ran fine. Three months after this, I had to return to the job because the new compressor had failed. I checked everything and couldn’t find anything wrong. So I replaced the compressor again under warranty. It’s been 9 months and the system is still working perfect. This location would not get anywhere near as hot as where you are. In my case I honestly just think the compressors were both faulty. Sounds crazy but I checked everything else.
In your case, I would,
1. Make sure the pipe runs aren’t to long.
2. Make sure the unit is correctly charged with the right amount of refrigerant.
3. Check the EEVS. Make sure they aren’t faulty.
If all this checks out. I’m confident it’s just the compressor that is faulty.
@@maracservices
Line-set is only ~18-19 ft from ODU to Indoor
Unit was recharged with exact gas wt. after existing gas was released.
(In India there is no concept of R32 recovery, even Daikin Tech do not recover gas and yes I hate this. Maybe 'coz R32 is cheap here @Rs. 500-600 per kg, ~9-11 AUD)
EEV's are working since there is cooling & it increases for the time the compressor is running albeit its not much. Running pressure remains at 80-90psi & standing is at 250psi. Will try to investigate this some more just to be sure...
Could there be an issue with the compressor working temp range of 10-46C. For my country I do not think its a good working range. What is your opinion?
Also could this fault be traced to a faulty PCB as well which resulted in compressor failure eventually. A new PCB was only used once to check if the PCB is faulty but the problem remained so the Daikin Auth. Tech said they will try with another PCB. They didn't used Inverter tester to check the output from PCB (UVW Tester).
@@HailStonE999 I personally don’t think it’s a faulty PCB. The problem is that the discharge temp is getting to high. If the compressor is making a loud noise like the one in the vid then I’m certain that the compressor is faulty.
If you have checked that the line-set is fine (all linesets added up shouldn’t be longer then the rated pipe length) and the gas charge is fine. Which is sounds like you have. Then I’d go through actually testing the EEVs with a multimeter. The Daikin app shows you how. Basically the problem is the compressor. The reason I’d check the EEVs is to rule out any underlying problems. Just because the indoors are cooling doesn’t mean the EEV’s aren’t faulty.
In my case, it was just the compressor that was faulty for no reason. It happens. In regards to the temp, if it is regularly above the rated temp range and the unit runs a lot (which it does) then that could definitely be the cause. in conclusion, the compressor is faulty, just rule out the EEV’s aren’t also faulty by using the Daikin app and a multimeter.
It might even be worth looking at units that have a higher temp range. It’s crazy how hot it gets over there.
@@maracservices Hi. Can a PCB damage a compressor into making this noise ??? Daikin Authorized Service Technician was adamant since beginning that its the PCB which was damaged.. They installed another new PCB but the same problem came. The compressor was still making noise, pulling high Amps & overheating. As usual the cooling was not effective. Then it tripped. It again started after some time & similar cycle repeated. They told me its the New PCB which is also faulty & another PCB was ordered.
This 2nd PCB again gave same fault of compressor tripping with high Amps, Overheat & noise. This time they removed & reconnected connectors. Unit was started & there was a loud shorting noise from their PCB. The ODU stopped completely. No compressor + no ODU fan running... Now they told me they will have to take the complete Indoor + ODU to service center to check the unit. After one week they told me the compressor is all right & a 3rd PCB is ordered to check the machine.
After another 14 days they told me the AC is working but the Compressor is still taking high Amps and is indeed faulty. So they got a new compressor & used this 3rd PCB. The machine worked normally now. They ran it for 3-4 hrs & there was no problem....
I am insisting that my PCB was never at fault & is in working condition since the last I used it gave me F3 error & since then the unit was never powered up with my PCB. But they are adamant that the PCB is also faulty & needs replacement along with the compressor. Their reason is that since 2nd PCB died after installing in my unit hence every PCB installed before that is also now faulty....
The compressor was changed under warranty but there is no warranty on PCB & it costs INR 11.5k. (~200 AUD)... They told me that if they connect my PCB it will not work & then their PCB will also get damaged when installed after removing my PCB.... Compressor can also get damaged.
Are they taking me on a ride here just to sell me their PCB ???? If my PCB is faulty then is there any way their PCB will become faulty on connecting or can it damage a compressor.....
@@HailStonE999 I can’t believe they changed the PCB so many times. F3 is a discharge pipe temperature sensor fault and if the unit is pulling high amps it’s clearly the compressor that is faulty. A faulty compressor can take out an Inverter PCB and a faulty Inverter PCB can take out a DC compressor. These things are very temperamental. If the unit is under warranty then they should just replace everything that is faulty. In Australia, if a customer has an air conditioner that is under warranty then I just order what ever I want and Daikin don’t ask any questions
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