This is a nice setup, but you would definitely run into problems at some parks by not having the pressure reducing valve as the first thing inline from the spigot. I have camped at parks that have over 100psi and will blow hoses and that cheap plastic tube on your water inlet (which is not designed for PEX fittings). These mods are nice, but it's better to not get complacent when hooking up water to your rig. Maybe keep a separate reducer with a gauge so you can see the incoming pressure at a quick glance.
Great DYI video. Currently in process of the same project. Your video drives home the need to simplify any repetition related to the RV experience. Especially when your moving from campground to campground every couple weeks. Great minds think alike😎.
Great video, nice touch with the added in line regulator. I have been trying to figure out a way to filter any water that goes through the system. like when you fill your water tank and it gets pumped out. I guess you could put in a Y fitting to run back through the filter if youre not hooked to a city connection.
My PRV is attached on my hose I just screw it in and thats it, actually my in line filter is attached to hose as well so I screw the PRV in and everything is screw in at once
Another good one, currently trying to figure out now to set up my "kitchen sink" on the 10.6. The way we use it I think I just need to route a hose to the other side but I really like your faucet idea.
Thank you. Planning to do a short one on the faucet install next. That was a must for me...having a more conventional faucet for hands free use. I thought about adding a drain, hose, and jerry can to collect sink waste from basin, but wasn't sure the added complexity would be too much for my renters and then one more thing to clean and setup. I still go back and forth on it though.
@@AdventureRocks the drain would be nice for those occasions. For the hardcore, I bet a small grey tank could be added. Haven't fully removed my belly pan yet
Realize I am late to the party and your NOBO is sold. I have a 2018 10.5 and want to complete covered modification. Guess my question is simple but has to do with access. Did you remove entire kitchen slide assemble and guide rails? Feel like I'm going to need an Emergency Extraction Team on standby when I prepare to do this mod over the winter. LOL No kidding access looks maybe beyond my 62 YOA abilities.
Yes, I pulled out the kitchen slide kinda like removing a drawer in kitchen cabinet. Then I crawled in there to get access. I gotta say it was not the best access and quite uncomfortable. So pretty tight, but was able to get what I needed done at least and then did some from inside the wardrobe with that removable lid there. I might tie a rope to my ankle next time just in case :)
@@AdventureRocks Thank you for the prompt response. Recently subscribed to channel and binge watching all NOBO videos but commit to watching all others. Again, thanks for response.
Good vid... I noticed you used PEX clamps on the clear braided hose coming out of the PRV (on your small rig). What hose and size is that? And what size are PEX rings? Thanks.
Just standard 1/2" on both. There's a lot of debate out there about braided flex hoses and PEX clamps/fittings, especially in RV industry. If installed properly and used in right scenarios it can be done though. Just my humble opinion! :) A lot of brands get a healthy dose of criticism for doing it and sparks a lot of debate for sure.
@@AdventureRocks Thanks for the quick reply... So the second question is how do I "open" the clamp rings to get them onto the hose? The 1/2" clamps are just a hair smaller than the hose (I got 1/2" food grade braided hose from Grainger). Thanks.
@@ForgeAheadwithMike I think the hose may need to be replaced with a slightly smaller one. I think there are more variations among braided hoses, so the tolerances aren't as tight compared to PEX. Basically, if the inside and outside diameter don't fit the existing PEX fittings, likely things will leak. Even if you're able to force the clamp over it. I think that's where a lot of people argue against using flexible hoses in RVs, as they tend to leak when they aren't paired perfectly together. I've never had to buy the flexible hoses myself, rather I've only reused what's already in my RVs as OEM so I unfortunately don't have a source to go to on the flex hose. I realize each application is different, but I wonder if it's possible to use PEX instead of the flex hose in your unique situation?
@@AdventureRocks Gotcha... I am using all PEX except for braided hose to connect to the water pump to absorb vibration. That's my caveat. I've looked at tons of braided hose but can't find any the same size as the pex tubing... I might just have to go with the worm clamps for that section.
@@ForgeAheadwithMike oh, my apologies. Another option is to buy the manufacturer braided hoses with female threaded ends on both and have male PEX threaded as coupler. Some say that is better than trying to use crimp rings on the braided lines...lots of opinions there. Shurflo makes a set if the length works for you...think they call it a silencing kit.
I haven't encountered mold or mildew with this setup. I always keep the city inlet shut when not in use with a screw on 1/4 turn ball valve. So in theory it's a closed system, kinda like a sealed water bottle. I love not having to setup a PRV or filter each time and the PRV seems to keep flow more constant.
@@phonebooth7007 If you are not going to be using the filter for say a few days or more you have to remove and Dry the filter elements. If not the Bacteria will grow like a wildfire and it is a Nasty problem 🥵🤮
I use ball valves on my inlets, so it is a sealed system essentially. Here's what I'm referring to: amzn.to/3ym7Xra Otherwise you might need to unscrew housing if it sits for a longer time and isn't sealed.
@@cruzinbenny3750 No, it's same kinda filter installed in houses as a whole house filter, so as long as your RVs water system is closed it's like a sealed bottle of water. If you don't use your RV for several months at a time, then it might be prudent to drain it in between, but as long as you leave it sealed up including water inlet with ball valve mentioned, have not had issues personally.
So with the NOBO you didn't protect the filter with the PRV? Also, in both installs, your hose and city water connection are not protected from high pressures.
Correct, that's my personal preference though. You can reverse them if desired. I always carry a water pressure meter with me and test spigots at campsites before connecting, and have never seen one register over 100 psi. If I ever do though, I can partially restrict the pressure by partially cutting off the valve. Lots of tests out there have been done on PEX lines with the crimp rings and they regularly withstand pressures well over in excess of their 160 PSI ratings. I've even seen one test where a builder went up well over 1,000 PSI before the PEX & crimp fitting failed. So for me personally I'm comfortable with it and more concerned about getting a nice even pressure on all my rig's fixtures. So very rare to find campsites with extremely high pressure in my experience, but always good to check with a PSI meter ahead of time to play it safe.
@@AdventureRocks I'm probably missing something, but if you're using a PSI meter, isn't that essentially the same effort as attaching a PRV at the source?
@@dbanks7842 No, a screw on PSI meter will only display pressure, no passthrough for water. It's used more for calibration. They do make cheaper screw on PRVs with PSI gauges built in, but they tend to fail quickly, at least the PSI gauge portion.
Sure thing, glad to help. Most residential PRVs come pre-calibrated to 40-50 psi from factory when new (should have tag on it stating standard PSI). But, can connect a screw-on garden hose style pressure guage to outside of water port hose (or outside shower) if needed to test...may need some adapters depending on rig.
Just remove the inner replaceable filter cartridge before winterizing leaving housing empty. Then insert a new one after flushing antifreeze out in the next season. I typically only replace filter once a year, but if you full time in it, then maybe 2-4x per year based on use. Hope this helps!
All well and good but when you are working in a small area for a Class C RV--you dont always have the luxury of using the crimping tool that is large and hard to manuever
Very true. Plumbers have compact tools that can fit in the tight spaces, but very expensive. Otherwise for DIY can always use Shark bite quick fittings. Not ideal, but sometimes an acceptable alternative.
@@margaretcurry8414 Sure, glad to help. Professional plumbers kinda frown upon the shark bite fittings as they aren't permanent and clearly targeted toward DIY, but truth is they have been tested and when used properly hold up just fine for years on years. They are best used in places where you can access them and keep an eye on them as opposed to closed walls in a house where you can't get to them. They are readily available at home improvement stores, and super easy for DIY. And the SharkBite brand carries a 25-year warranty I believe.
Nice video. I would recommend using the copper pex crimping rings which is a step up from the rings that you are using.
This is a nice setup, but you would definitely run into problems at some parks by not having the pressure reducing valve as the first thing inline from the spigot. I have camped at parks that have over 100psi and will blow hoses and that cheap plastic tube on your water inlet (which is not designed for PEX fittings).
These mods are nice, but it's better to not get complacent when hooking up water to your rig. Maybe keep a separate reducer with a gauge so you can see the incoming pressure at a quick glance.
Great feedback! Thank you.
Great DYI video. Currently in process of the same project. Your video drives home the need to simplify any repetition related to the RV experience. Especially when your moving from campground to campground every couple weeks. Great minds think alike😎.
Agreed!
The crimp tool tutorial was helpfull thanks!
Great video, nice touch with the added in line regulator. I have been trying to figure out a way to filter any water that goes through the system. like when you fill your water tank and it gets pumped out. I guess you could put in a Y fitting to run back through the filter if youre not hooked to a city connection.
Thank you! Glad to help. Agreed that would be nice to have both fed by filter!
Great idea on the PRV!!
Thank you
My PRV is attached on my hose I just screw it in and thats it, actually my in line filter is attached to hose as well so I screw the PRV in and everything is screw in at once
Another good one, currently trying to figure out now to set up my "kitchen sink" on the 10.6. The way we use it I think I just need to route a hose to the other side but I really like your faucet idea.
Thank you. Planning to do a short one on the faucet install next. That was a must for me...having a more conventional faucet for hands free use. I thought about adding a drain, hose, and jerry can to collect sink waste from basin, but wasn't sure the added complexity would be too much for my renters and then one more thing to clean and setup. I still go back and forth on it though.
@@AdventureRocks the drain would be nice for those occasions. For the hardcore, I bet a small grey tank could be added. Haven't fully removed my belly pan yet
Very helpful thanks!
Realize I am late to the party and your NOBO is sold. I have a 2018 10.5 and want to complete covered modification. Guess my question is simple but has to do with access. Did you remove entire kitchen slide assemble and guide rails? Feel like I'm going to need an Emergency Extraction Team on standby when I prepare to do this mod over the winter. LOL No kidding access looks maybe beyond my 62 YOA abilities.
Yes, I pulled out the kitchen slide kinda like removing a drawer in kitchen cabinet. Then I crawled in there to get access. I gotta say it was not the best access and quite uncomfortable. So pretty tight, but was able to get what I needed done at least and then did some from inside the wardrobe with that removable lid there. I might tie a rope to my ankle next time just in case :)
@@AdventureRocks Thank you for the prompt response. Recently subscribed to channel and binge watching all NOBO videos but commit to watching all others. Again, thanks for response.
Good vid... I noticed you used PEX clamps on the clear braided hose coming out of the PRV (on your small rig). What hose and size is that? And what size are PEX rings? Thanks.
Just standard 1/2" on both. There's a lot of debate out there about braided flex hoses and PEX clamps/fittings, especially in RV industry. If installed properly and used in right scenarios it can be done though. Just my humble opinion! :) A lot of brands get a healthy dose of criticism for doing it and sparks a lot of debate for sure.
@@AdventureRocks Thanks for the quick reply... So the second question is how do I "open" the clamp rings to get them onto the hose? The 1/2" clamps are just a hair smaller than the hose (I got 1/2" food grade braided hose from Grainger). Thanks.
@@ForgeAheadwithMike I think the hose may need to be replaced with a slightly smaller one. I think there are more variations among braided hoses, so the tolerances aren't as tight compared to PEX. Basically, if the inside and outside diameter don't fit the existing PEX fittings, likely things will leak. Even if you're able to force the clamp over it. I think that's where a lot of people argue against using flexible hoses in RVs, as they tend to leak when they aren't paired perfectly together. I've never had to buy the flexible hoses myself, rather I've only reused what's already in my RVs as OEM so I unfortunately don't have a source to go to on the flex hose. I realize each application is different, but I wonder if it's possible to use PEX instead of the flex hose in your unique situation?
@@AdventureRocks Gotcha... I am using all PEX except for braided hose to connect to the water pump to absorb vibration. That's my caveat. I've looked at tons of braided hose but can't find any the same size as the pex tubing... I might just have to go with the worm clamps for that section.
@@ForgeAheadwithMike oh, my apologies. Another option is to buy the manufacturer braided hoses with female threaded ends on both and have male PEX threaded as coupler. Some say that is better than trying to use crimp rings on the braided lines...lots of opinions there. Shurflo makes a set if the length works for you...think they call it a silencing kit.
No add prv first than filter our water presses from campground blew the filter hosIng off
Great point!
Does mold build up in between uses, thanks for the idea 💡, thanks for the video
I haven't encountered mold or mildew with this setup. I always keep the city inlet shut when not in use with a screw on 1/4 turn ball valve. So in theory it's a closed system, kinda like a sealed water bottle. I love not having to setup a PRV or filter each time and the PRV seems to keep flow more constant.
@@AdventureRocks thanks so much for the help might try to build one myself
@@phonebooth7007 If you are not going to be using the filter for say a few days or more you have to remove and Dry the filter elements.
If not the Bacteria will grow like a wildfire and it is a Nasty problem 🥵🤮
Thanks god bless
what do you with the standing water left in the filter between trips?
I use ball valves on my inlets, so it is a sealed system essentially. Here's what I'm referring to: amzn.to/3ym7Xra
Otherwise you might need to unscrew housing if it sits for a longer time and isn't sealed.
@@AdventureRocks Do you empty the filter after each trip?
@@cruzinbenny3750 No, it's same kinda filter installed in houses as a whole house filter, so as long as your RVs water system is closed it's like a sealed bottle of water. If you don't use your RV for several months at a time, then it might be prudent to drain it in between, but as long as you leave it sealed up including water inlet with ball valve mentioned, have not had issues personally.
So with the NOBO you didn't protect the filter with the PRV? Also, in both installs, your hose and city water connection are not protected from high pressures.
Correct, that's my personal preference though. You can reverse them if desired. I always carry a water pressure meter with me and test spigots at campsites before connecting, and have never seen one register over 100 psi. If I ever do though, I can partially restrict the pressure by partially cutting off the valve. Lots of tests out there have been done on PEX lines with the crimp rings and they regularly withstand pressures well over in excess of their 160 PSI ratings. I've even seen one test where a builder went up well over 1,000 PSI before the PEX & crimp fitting failed. So for me personally I'm comfortable with it and more concerned about getting a nice even pressure on all my rig's fixtures. So very rare to find campsites with extremely high pressure in my experience, but always good to check with a PSI meter ahead of time to play it safe.
@@AdventureRocks I'm probably missing something, but if you're using a PSI meter, isn't that essentially the same effort as attaching a PRV at the source?
@@dbanks7842 No, a screw on PSI meter will only display pressure, no passthrough for water. It's used more for calibration. They do make cheaper screw on PRVs with PSI gauges built in, but they tend to fail quickly, at least the PSI gauge portion.
How did you set the water pressure without a gauge on the reducer?
Sure thing, glad to help. Most residential PRVs come pre-calibrated to 40-50 psi from factory when new (should have tag on it stating standard PSI). But, can connect a screw-on garden hose style pressure guage to outside of water port hose (or outside shower) if needed to test...may need some adapters depending on rig.
How does (de)winterizing with RV antifreeze effect the filter system?
Just remove the inner replaceable filter cartridge before winterizing leaving housing empty. Then insert a new one after flushing antifreeze out in the next season. I typically only replace filter once a year, but if you full time in it, then maybe 2-4x per year based on use. Hope this helps!
@@AdventureRocks thanks!
Is this filtering the fresh water tank fill as well? i just see it filtering the city water being filtered?
Depends on the way your specific model/unit is plumbed from the factory. You can do either way though based on preference.
All well and good but when you are working in a small area for a Class C RV--you dont always have the luxury of using the crimping tool that is large and hard to manuever
Very true. Plumbers have compact tools that can fit in the tight spaces, but very expensive. Otherwise for DIY can always use Shark bite quick fittings. Not ideal, but sometimes an acceptable alternative.
@@AdventureRocks Thank you for that, i will look into Shark Bite. Had not heard of these.
@@margaretcurry8414 Sure, glad to help. Professional plumbers kinda frown upon the shark bite fittings as they aren't permanent and clearly targeted toward DIY, but truth is they have been tested and when used properly hold up just fine for years on years. They are best used in places where you can access them and keep an eye on them as opposed to closed walls in a house where you can't get to them. They are readily available at home improvement stores, and super easy for DIY. And the SharkBite brand carries a 25-year warranty I believe.