I have a leak of transmission fluid coming out of the top of the output assembly, I am pretty sure I need to change the gasket for that - part number 11060-1651. So at the 14:40 mark of the video you said you have to remove the shift shaft as it goes all the way through - is that necessary or just makes it easier? As I really would just like to take off the output assembly case, change the gasket and put it back together and don't want to have to take apart the other side where the shift shaft comes out. Hopefully as well I can do all this without removing the motor from the machine.
BTW on the spanner nut, make sure you blunt the chisel very well, otherwise it will cut into the nut, I probably ruined mine, I didn't notice it had cut into it. So BLUNT chisel.
My shifter shaft broke at the very end where the shift lever clamps on. In order to change the shift shaft do I have to take off both side covers or can I just do the right side? And does the clutch have to come off just to change the shaft as well? Thank you in advance and awesome job with the video!
I got an issue with 2010 Bayou 250....it's sputtering bad at 3/4 to full throttle....in neutral or in gear. It idles great and revs fine up to that point. Very little puffs of black smoke but there is some black "fuel" smoke. I've adjusted float, checked slide & main needle, checked the clearances of valves...., .006-.007 on intake, .008-.009 on exhaust. Cleaned carb, checked intake boot for holes, air filter is fine......no clogged vent tubes, put new spark plug in it. I can't get it to stop the sputtering. I even choked it while it was at high rev and noticed no difference, choked while was idling and it cut off. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
I think it's the needle seat....the BOTTOM side, not the side that float needle touches but the other side of hole.....it looks like someone has drilled the hole bigger? I'm guessing when rings were bad and had very little compression or intake, they "made" it run the best it could....then after top-end rebuild and having plenty of compression/intake, its pulling too much fuel through that now bigger hole that was drilled??? Unsure how to post pictures in comments of the seat / valve hole.
Hi I have a bayou 250 I do not have any oil going up into my sight glass I over heated the motor I changed the oil and filter now no oil is reading.The bayou will run what do you think.
So I have a 1988 Kawasaki Bayou 220, we had the shifter break near the shift pedal, and I am attempting to replace it currently. However after i pulled off all the clutches and the gear retaining screw, and so on, when I go to pull the shaft out of the clutch side of the motor, it seem like the shaft it catching on something, it pulls out about half and inch of so then just stops, like it hits some sort of lock or something any ideas? Thanks!
@Mid Nebraska Motorsports I have an 85 KLT160 and cant get it in neutral it started randomly everything was working as usual and it started acting up and thats why im confused nothing happened and its not making any noise. i tried adjusting the clutch with no success. I can get it into reverse and then it will occasionally drop into neutral.It will run through all the gear flawlessly and down shift all the way down to first then it wont go into neutral. I bought a new clutch thinking that was the issue but after watching your video im guessing it could be bent fork or a worn shift drum so my question is can i get to the shift drum by taking just the clutch side off or am i going to have to do a total tear down like you have done here? Also can a worn clutch cause these symptoms and maybe i was on the right track?
I need to do a teardown so I thank u for this vid. What tools do you recommend before I get into it? How about a good impact recommendation? This sounds silly but how about a table recommendation? Looks like you have a channel on yours?
@@MidNebraskaMotorsports half late, I picked up the hf tools bauer 3/8... My god how did I do things before this? Since I wrote to you, I watched at least 5 vids of yours... You're now my idol on vid making, thanks, unbelievablely helpful!!
@@MidNebraskaMotorsports I found out, the crank pin is pressed in and crank weights balanced and aligned, not feasible for a DIYer or even a shop maybe, so yes buy the assembly. I got a good used one. The cylinder and piston disintegrated on this motor I'm working on, the windage tray got hit and made a couple cracks, not a structural part of the case, I could weld it but also found two good used halves, so save em for later or scrap.
Hi there. Great videos! One question: I have a 2008 Bayou that I purchased from this guy on Facebook market. It has quite some oil leaks unfortunately :/ I think I can fix those. However, I did notice that is missing an oil line. The oil line that runs to the transmission. From one side of the engine to the other. They plugged the holes where the banjo bolts go. Is this going to cause future problems on the ATV. ? I know those oil lines were there for a reason.
You're an awesome mechanic..but you've got to get the camera shots in closer. I would use your videos in a heartbeat to do my Kawasaki 220 rebuild..but there's so much I can't see well enough that they're of no help to me. Your knowledge and the time & effort you put into producing your videos are too good to be ruined by visibility issues. ☹️
Awesome job man . . . Very descriptive
I have a leak of transmission fluid coming out of the top of the output assembly, I am pretty sure I need to change the gasket for that - part number 11060-1651.
So at the 14:40 mark of the video you said you have to remove the shift shaft as it goes all the way through - is that necessary or just makes it easier? As I really would just like to take off the output assembly case, change the gasket and put it back together and don't want to have to take apart the other side where the shift shaft comes out. Hopefully as well I can do all this without removing the motor from the machine.
Hello, hey the final drive nut ( where the drive shaft hooks to motor) is the nut standard or reverse thread? The 30mm nut I think
BTW on the spanner nut, make sure you blunt the chisel very well, otherwise it will cut into the nut, I probably ruined mine, I didn't notice it had cut into it. So BLUNT chisel.
My shifter shaft broke at the very end where the shift lever clamps on. In order to change the shift shaft do I have to take off both side covers or can I just do the right side? And does the clutch have to come off just to change the shaft as well? Thank you in advance and awesome job with the video!
I got an issue with 2010 Bayou 250....it's sputtering bad at 3/4 to full throttle....in neutral or in gear. It idles great and revs fine up to that point. Very little puffs of black smoke but there is some black "fuel" smoke. I've adjusted float, checked slide & main needle, checked the clearances of valves...., .006-.007 on intake, .008-.009 on exhaust. Cleaned carb, checked intake boot for holes, air filter is fine......no clogged vent tubes, put new spark plug in it. I can't get it to stop the sputtering. I even choked it while it was at high rev and noticed no difference, choked while was idling and it cut off. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
I think it's the needle seat....the BOTTOM side, not the side that float needle touches but the other side of hole.....it looks like someone has drilled the hole bigger? I'm guessing when rings were bad and had very little compression or intake, they "made" it run the best it could....then after top-end rebuild and having plenty of compression/intake, its pulling too much fuel through that now bigger hole that was drilled??? Unsure how to post pictures in comments of the seat / valve hole.
Is there a gasket between the crankcase halves? Or is it just a machined surface seal?
Hi I have a bayou 250 I do not have any oil going up into my sight glass I over heated the motor I changed the oil and filter now no oil is reading.The bayou will run what do you think.
So I have a 1988 Kawasaki Bayou 220, we had the shifter break near the shift pedal, and I am attempting to replace it currently. However after i pulled off all the clutches and the gear retaining screw, and so on, when I go to pull the shaft out of the clutch side of the motor, it seem like the shaft it catching on something, it pulls out about half and inch of so then just stops, like it hits some sort of lock or something any ideas? Thanks!
@Mid Nebraska Motorsports I have an 85 KLT160 and cant get it in neutral it started randomly everything was working as usual and it started acting up and thats why im confused nothing happened and its not making any noise. i tried adjusting the clutch with no success. I can get it into reverse and then it will occasionally drop into neutral.It will run through all the gear flawlessly and down shift all the way down to first then it wont go into neutral. I bought a new clutch thinking that was the issue but after watching your video im guessing it could be bent fork or a worn shift drum so my question is can i get to the shift drum by taking just the clutch side off or am i going to have to do a total tear down like you have done here? Also can a worn clutch cause these symptoms and maybe i was on the right track?
I need to do a teardown so I thank u for this vid. What tools do you recommend before I get into it? How about a good impact recommendation? This sounds silly but how about a table recommendation? Looks like you have a channel on yours?
@@MidNebraskaMotorsports half late, I picked up the hf tools bauer 3/8... My god how did I do things before this? Since I wrote to you, I watched at least 5 vids of yours... You're now my idol on vid making, thanks, unbelievablely helpful!!
What happened to explaing how to adjust the front bevel gear
I take it the crank and rod is not a serviceable assembly?
I'd just replace them both as an assembly. Thanks again
@@MidNebraskaMotorsports I found out, the crank pin is pressed in and crank weights balanced and aligned, not feasible for a DIYer or even a shop maybe, so yes buy the assembly. I got a good used one. The cylinder and piston disintegrated on this motor I'm working on, the windage tray got hit and made a couple cracks, not a structural part of the case, I could weld it but also found two good used halves, so save em for later or scrap.
Hi there. Great videos! One question: I have a 2008 Bayou that I purchased from this guy on Facebook market. It has quite some oil leaks unfortunately :/ I think I can fix those. However, I did notice that is missing an oil line. The oil line that runs to the transmission. From one side of the engine to the other. They plugged the holes where the banjo bolts go. Is this going to cause future problems on the ATV. ? I know those oil lines were there for a reason.
It already has caused a problem, I assure you.
what's the torque for the bolt that sits/holds on the recoil pull starter cup?
where can i buy parts for this quad?
Can the shift shaft be removed without removing clutch basket ? I trying to avoid the welder ,
Mid Nebraska Motorsports thank you , very happy to have you videos to help
Do you know why mine runs for close to a minute then engine locks up and kills it
is there supposed to be oil in with the stator on a 220?
also what is the head bolt torque specs?
Flywheel Removal tool what size?
You're an awesome mechanic..but you've got to get the camera shots in closer. I would use your videos in a heartbeat to do my Kawasaki 220 rebuild..but there's so much I can't see well enough that they're of no help to me. Your knowledge and the time & effort you put into producing your videos are too good to be ruined by visibility issues. ☹️