It's the same stuff they use in TV remotes for getting a "two layer" PCB out of a single layer phenolic one. They print it over the solder resist coating. The contacts for the buttons and the traces going to them are made with it, and at some points have "vias" where there is no solder resist and the solder glue mates with the copper underneath. If say, a trace going to a button cracks or corrodes away, that button will stop working. The black stuff doesn't take to solder very well or at all, so you have to follow that trace until you find the copper, scratch some solder resist off and run thin transformer wire to the button, making a flat blob of wire and solder at the button end, to fix the damn remote. Or you can use a drop of this stuff to patch the broken section. They sell siringes with just a bit that will last you a lifetime of remotes. It is also useful for making your own custom value resistors.
Wood glue (PVA type) combined with powdered silver solder. Beats everything and it's DIY. It'll stick conductively to aluminum, copper, steel, and bare silicon (it'll bond to solar cells). It'll stick to anything as far as I know; it just needs to be a clean surface. *) Any solder that isn't rosin core can be used, but lead free is probably safer to make and handle. *) A lot of ratios between the glue and powder are possible. More powder = better conductor. *) It starts hardening quickly when mixed (50/50 is about half a minute before it gets tacky). When I made powdered solder, I used a 12VDC fan with the blades clipped off, running at reduced speed with some double stick tape and sandpaper bonded to it. To feed a piece of solder into the makeshift sander, I attached a drinking straw to a block of wood with duct tape at an angle to the sander. It'll throw some dust into the air, even at reduced speeds, so it'll need to be done in a garage with a bowl or something covering the sander. The dust is conductive, so avoid doing this near computers. Metal dusts mixed with air can become explosive ~ so avoid blowing the dust into the air near sparks or open flames. As far as I'm aware, this recipe is unknown - or it's in the public domain now. I stumbled onto it a few years ago when I tested graphite/carbon/metal powders with every household binder (paints, glues, etc). This combination beat everything else. Most of the glues and binders I tried wouldn't work with metal powder at all. Notably, spar varnish isn't as good, but it works with both carbon and metal powders (it's the next best alternative to wood glue).
For making silver particles combined with PVA glue, what grit of sandpaper did you use? Is the goal a fine powder or more of a coarse powder? Which works better fine or coarse?
Nevermind, after further research, I found fine powder is great. Even nanoscale is good. I'm planning to make mine with a file instead of sandpaper to avoid sand getting in it and I even plan to build a ball mill to make it even finer. I also bought 200 mesh filter to filter out the oversized silver particles. As a side note, I managed to find a seller on eBay that sells pure silver powder for the same price as silver ingots are sold so as long as that seller continues at that price range, is more practical to just buy the silver particles than make your own. Now I just need to know the best glue to use. You say PVA glue is great so I will try it but I'm curious if oxidation is an issue over a long-term duration of time. Since PVA glue is a robbery glue, I imagine it would protect the particles from oxidation to some extent. I'd like to know if the stuff you built with PVA glue still has good connectivity after many years?
Hi - 5 years late to the thread... Why silver? Wouldn't powdered copper be the best choice to mix with glue to make a conductive solder glue? I can get atomized copper powder online for quite cheap.
@@HowardBaileyMusic It might work, but long term I think the copper powder will react with air, moisture, or any dissimilar metal it's bonded to. Silver oxide remains conductive, but copper oxide is a semiconductor. It solidifies within a minute of mixing the powder and glue together. The faster it's mixed and applied, the better it'll bond. I recommend mixing it in very small bathes.
To measure the resistance while glued on *copper* is a bit "unlucky" in my optinion... You have a "0 Ohm" resistor in parallel. The resistance will not change much with distance, but with the thickness of the glue layer (needle's contact point down to the copper layer).
I've used wire glue (carbon based) on boards that daren't be soldered (sputtered gold) and worried about the reliability of the conductivity. So I then painted over the bond with conductive silver paint and that worked a treat. Once that had cured, I used Araldite two part resin to coat and hold the painted bond. Annoyingly when wire glue is sold, the packets never tell you that there will be resistance generated in the bond, rather than 00.0 Ohms. It's no pure magic bullet, but it has gotten me out of problems before.
Here is an easy one. The answer is obvious but I always like to get confirmations first. How many would say, yes, that JB Weld Steel Stick is sufficient to join wires together under the dashboard of my car then adding a protective cover (electrical tape, heat weld, etc.)? I'll be doing this tommorow. Another question is, "Does JB Weld Steel Stick conduct electricity?
Well let me tell you something, I got the same product from ebay,Wire Glue, I used in many stuff (such pcb) and it worked really fine in the beginning however after weeks of done that I tried the same stuff, and surprise, conductive property stop working. seriously even wtih stuff I haven't used. It got really dried. Now I am replacing all this stuff with silver conductive wire glue paste..
Would this work to repair the conductive paint on a rubber keypad? For example I have a synth that I need to repair the key pads on however they're not round like remote buttons but rather long and thin (like a PCB track). Would this stuff adhere to the rubber and would it last?
I'd say if you can apply it carefully and avoid shorting pins together, it would work. The shorter the junction, the less resistance is added by this stuff. Good luck!
I was a bit too eager when scraping off some solder of a via now it won't let me solder to it at all! All I wanted to do was solder a wire to a broken trace. would this work or would something else be easier?
It's the same stuff they use in TV remotes for getting a "two layer" PCB out of a single layer phenolic one. They print it over the solder resist coating. The contacts for the buttons and the traces going to them are made with it, and at some points have "vias" where there is no solder resist and the solder glue mates with the copper underneath. If say, a trace going to a button cracks or corrodes away, that button will stop working. The black stuff doesn't take to solder very well or at all, so you have to follow that trace until you find the copper, scratch some solder resist off and run thin transformer wire to the button, making a flat blob of wire and solder at the button end, to fix the damn remote. Or you can use a drop of this stuff to patch the broken section.
They sell siringes with just a bit that will last you a lifetime of remotes. It is also useful for making your own custom value resistors.
Wood glue (PVA type) combined with powdered silver solder. Beats everything and it's DIY.
It'll stick conductively to aluminum, copper, steel, and bare silicon (it'll bond to solar cells). It'll stick to anything as far as I know; it just needs to be a clean surface.
*) Any solder that isn't rosin core can be used, but lead free is probably safer to make and handle.
*) A lot of ratios between the glue and powder are possible. More powder = better conductor.
*) It starts hardening quickly when mixed (50/50 is about half a minute before it gets tacky).
When I made powdered solder, I used a 12VDC fan with the blades clipped off, running at reduced speed with some double stick tape and sandpaper bonded to it. To feed a piece of solder into the makeshift sander, I attached a drinking straw to a block of wood with duct tape at an angle to the sander. It'll throw some dust into the air, even at reduced speeds, so it'll need to be done in a garage with a bowl or something covering the sander. The dust is conductive, so avoid doing this near computers. Metal dusts mixed with air can become explosive ~ so avoid blowing the dust into the air near sparks or open flames.
As far as I'm aware, this recipe is unknown - or it's in the public domain now. I stumbled onto it a few years ago when I tested graphite/carbon/metal powders with every household binder (paints, glues, etc). This combination beat everything else. Most of the glues and binders I tried wouldn't work with metal powder at all. Notably, spar varnish isn't as good, but it works with both carbon and metal powders (it's the next best alternative to wood glue).
If I sent ya $10 how much would that get me? ;) (To save me all that hassle of grinding down the metal, etc.)
For making silver particles combined with PVA glue, what grit of sandpaper did you use? Is the goal a fine powder or more of a coarse powder? Which works better fine or coarse?
Nevermind, after further research, I found fine powder is great. Even nanoscale is good. I'm planning to make mine with a file instead of sandpaper to avoid sand getting in it and I even plan to build a ball mill to make it even finer. I also bought 200 mesh filter to filter out the oversized silver particles. As a side note, I managed to find a seller on eBay that sells pure silver powder for the same price as silver ingots are sold so as long as that seller continues at that price range, is more practical to just buy the silver particles than make your own. Now I just need to know the best glue to use. You say PVA glue is great so I will try it but I'm curious if oxidation is an issue over a long-term duration of time. Since PVA glue is a robbery glue, I imagine it would protect the particles from oxidation to some extent. I'd like to know if the stuff you built with PVA glue still has good connectivity after many years?
Hi - 5 years late to the thread...
Why silver? Wouldn't powdered copper be the best choice to mix with glue to make a conductive solder glue? I can get atomized copper powder online for quite cheap.
@@HowardBaileyMusic It might work, but long term I think the copper powder will react with air, moisture, or any dissimilar metal it's bonded to. Silver oxide remains conductive, but copper oxide is a semiconductor.
It solidifies within a minute of mixing the powder and glue together. The faster it's mixed and applied, the better it'll bond. I recommend mixing it in very small bathes.
To measure the resistance while glued on *copper* is a bit "unlucky" in my optinion... You have a "0 Ohm" resistor in parallel.
The resistance will not change much with distance, but with the thickness of the glue layer (needle's contact point down to the copper layer).
I've used wire glue (carbon based) on boards that daren't be soldered (sputtered gold) and worried about the reliability of the conductivity. So I then painted over the bond with conductive silver paint and that worked a treat. Once that had cured, I used Araldite two part resin to coat and hold the painted bond. Annoyingly when wire glue is sold, the packets never tell you that there will be resistance generated in the bond, rather than 00.0 Ohms. It's no pure magic bullet, but it has gotten me out of problems before.
Glue and all that will corrode
I very much appreciate your video.
Here is an easy one. The answer is obvious but I always like to get confirmations first.
How many would say, yes, that JB Weld Steel Stick is sufficient to join wires together under the dashboard of my car then adding a protective cover (electrical tape, heat weld, etc.)?
I'll be doing this tommorow.
Another question is, "Does JB Weld Steel Stick
conduct electricity?
Did it work? That's exactly the question I'm trying to get answered right now thank you in advance
Well let me tell you something, I got the same product from ebay,Wire Glue, I used in many stuff (such pcb) and it worked really fine in the beginning however after weeks of done that I tried the same stuff, and surprise, conductive property stop working. seriously even wtih stuff I haven't used. It got really dried. Now I am replacing all this stuff with silver conductive wire glue paste..
Yep, the Wire glue is only temporary. Use either sand paper to wear down the carbon membrane pads or use silver conductive wire glue, like you said.
Dude just solder it stop with the glues they melt
Would this work to repair the conductive paint on a rubber keypad? For example I have a synth that I need to repair the key pads on however they're not round like remote buttons but rather long and thin (like a PCB track). Would this stuff adhere to the rubber and would it last?
What if u made a mistake can u remove the glue
It gets quite brittle and also crumbles quite easily, so I'd say Yes you can scrape it off.
@@Componentfun ok thanks
always wondered about stuff like this , so do you think this stuff could be used instead of solder to put header pins on a pi zero or an esp8266 ?
I'd say if you can apply it carefully and avoid shorting pins together, it would work. The shorter the junction, the less resistance is added by this stuff. Good luck!
I was a bit too eager when scraping off some solder of a via now it won't let me solder to it at all! All I wanted to do was solder a wire to a broken trace. would this work or would something else be easier?
Thank you!
Carbon-based: 12V 8ohm - 18W = un-glue? Silver (not sintered?) 12V 4ohm - 36W... why should be sintered ("melted")
4.2 ohms resistor between the leads makes your measurements quite poor ):
Silver glue "baking": also known as "sintering"
How to remove that glue ? I am in a big problem please help !
scraping should eork. it's water soluble.
Alcohol
I tried wire glue it don't work several times doesn't work for crap
2 much mouth'n not enough ohm'n... you failed to show US resistance board to wire(s)
Would it work on nerf guns?
... for what purpose? Do nerf guns have electronics? :)
silver conductive pest my reqrement
The only reason you call wires run to a board a junction is cause it's clustered just learn to solder never would I ever glue wires to a circuit board
Lol I totally agree that this is not a valid use case. It's what we call "a test".