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Testing Kafuter Adhesives For Electronics | Voltlog
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- Опубликовано: 5 авг 2024
- High quality PCB Services pcbway.com In this video I am taking a look at various adhesive products from Kafuter and I try to figure out how to best use these in electronic assemblies. Due to their properties some of these adhesives will be best used for conformal coating, some for mechanical stability on capacitors, some as thread locker while some as epoxy for mechanically securing small connectors and wires.
→You can order these adhesives from the following links:
Kafuter K-5905 Yellow Adhesive
Aliexpress voltlog.com/y/4ns0t
Banggood voltlog.com/y/hs09y
Kafuter K-1668 Yellow Adhesive
Aliexpress voltlog.com/y/09iag
Ebay voltlog.com/y/t1ba7
Banggood voltlog.com/y/4xbi8
Kafuter K-200R Red Adhesive
Aliexpress voltlog.com/y/kn47q
Ebay voltlog.com/y/cmj9v
Banggood voltlog.com/y/26e07
Kafuter K-704 Silicone Adhesive
Aliexpress voltlog.com/y/k8c3z
Ebay voltlog.com/y/kt6uc
Amazon voltlog.com/y/ybfle
Kafuter K-705 Transparent Adhesive
Aliexpress voltlog.com/y/j5knm
Ebay voltlog.com/y/0v1oe
Kafuter K-586 Black Silicone
Aliexpress voltlog.com/y/f2u18
Ebay voltlog.com/y/kaesr
Banggood voltlog.com/y/ge719
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#Voltlog #Kafuter #Adhesives
Even if not very scientific, I think your tests succeeded very well in their mission to give an idea of the different properties. I will definitely come back to this video when I find the need. The white and yellow adhesives seemed like something I'll buy "just in case" I'll need them.
Thanks! Another one worth having if you deal with outdoor electronics is the transparent conformal coating type glue, that's very useful if you need to protect circuits from moisture.
@@voltlog Very true but I already got the conformal coating spray I learned about on your earlier video + a jar of potting mass bought from the same local store. It just occurred to me, would the white glue be good for securing a PCB to an enclosure (plastic or metal? Ideally I'd like to use standoffs but I've had trouble finding a suitable glue to make them stick on to the enclosure...
Ristomatti Airo Definetely worth a try. It might also help if you rough up the surfaces before.
@@voltlog BTW, the seller I ordered the adhesives sent me a message they won't ship through AliExpress Standard due to "increasing difficulties getting liquids past security checks" and they they'll use PostNL instead. Did you get anything like that?
For years, I have been using Kafuter K704 for plane foam repair and it is the best glue for such usage, by far.
1) it is white as the foam itself
2) It does not cure fast as cyano, so you have time to adjust the parts to glue
3) It remains somewhat flexible when cured, same as the foam itself and contrary to 2 components glues that are too stiff when cured
4) It can be sanded (more or less)
5) It can be painted
6) No problems to clean it from hands and tools
Myself I prefer to use hot glue with foam planes because I don't have to wait for it to cure for a long time. K704 for example, whenever I use it as conformal coating, it takes at least 12h for it to stop being sticky on the outside.
@@voltlog, yes, hot glue is also very useful for quick repairs. But for building it is often too heavy and to fast for assembling large parts.
@@jean-paulisambart2444 I am thinking of buying some of this 704 glue to help repair my foam plane. It was used in the factory where my rc foam plane was made so I prefer to use the same glue for repairs.
As a long time JBweld (original) fan, I decided to try Kafuter K-9119 in my electronics projects for a change. The results were really good. It sets up faster and flows without losing control. The mixed viscosity is just right to settle into neat joints / fills efficiently 'dissolving' any tool marks. It provides a much harder surface than JB (possibly not as tough but no evidence of that in my tests) and is harder to sand (like acrylic stock) but the sanded finish is superior IMO. For filling 3D prints, jointing, surfacing etc, I recommend this.
Nice job communicating tactile sense. Good summary of these products.
Glad it was helpful!
A very interesting video, thanks for taking the time to do these test.
Thanks for making this great video.. i always wondered about the difference between those and you made it very clear
this looks so satisfying. Can't wait to get mines.
Very good information, with practical tests!
Thank you! Cheers!
Hey Voltlog! Just wanted to let you know another great usage for the black K586. Which comes off easily. It is really great way to black out annoying LEDs on equipment that are too shiny or bright. Especially when the led is distracting because it flashes all of the time. Or if the LED light up the whole room at night time. And you cannot get some sleep. The great thing is that the black k586 sealant is acid neutral and inert. So it will not chemically react or damage PCB or plastics. Because it comes off very EASILY the led blocker can be removed afterwards to reverse the operation. Without any concern or possibility to lift traces or break off the tiny smd led itself. I hope you find that a useful extra tip. And thank you so much for explaining these purpose of these other adhesives. Very useful ! I must also order the other ones from aliexpress now. For my own hobby electronics. Thanks so much man!
BTW this does not matter but I have recently purchased a 3d printer now. So if you wish to cover anything more about 3d printing on the channel in future. Then its also great and I thank you.
Ok, good to know that the K586 is acid neutral cause out of the bunch I've tested so far I was unsure of this one. It had a different, more powerful smell than the others.
@@voltlog Yeah there is definately a chemical curing reaction with the air. The difference between this silicone sealant and others if that it is 'neutral cure" meaning neutral ph. This is documented on wikipedia as being 'oxime'. Which refers to the chemical reaction. All 'oxime' silicone sealantss should be safe for use with electronics (bnot to damage them by acid). For example WP70 Neutral Cure Oxime Silicone Sealant i also have here. And also another one I can buy here in UK is called "SSG4000E UltraGlaze". The reason to get those instead is to do with the properties. A low modulus (LM) silicone sealant is typically most of the oxime ones, Which means it's more elastic and deformable. Reading the data sheet I suspect perhaps the "SSG4000E UltraGlaze" is harder and more durable. However I have not had the opportunity to use it yet.
ALSO these large caulking tubes they come in are very large and difficult to push out, Another big problem is that after about 1-2 years they will harden inside the container. Or if you have started to use it, then and air gap in the tube will cause the entire thing to harden into a solid tube,But there is more! Necause in Europe we also have products things like "ONEGel" and "MP Gel" if you search for "silicone electrical potting gel" and this is designed for electricians, when you need to put wiring outside you can fill the entire electrical box with this silicone gel. To protect everything inside from the weather. For example if you want to install garden outdoor lighting. This is also a very good alternative to a conformal coating.
Hopefully that helps you to understand why the black one still smells because it is "oxime" type. This is a different smell comparing to the regular construction silicone sealants. Which have ammonia that smells much stronger, and then the PH acid from the reaction will then chemically damage the PCB (like an active flux). Don't worry! The black oxime ones are supposed to be safe for electronics. It is the correct product to use. For sure.
I also looked for other neutral cure sealants that were not "oxime" type. However they are not available. So basically all of the "neutral cure" are oxime type. So just check for "oxime" on the label to make sure. Otherwise search for "silicone electrical potting gel" in google.
@@dreamcat4 thank you sharing this knowledge!
Thank you, excellent comparison
Thanks for the video. Ordered the 704 (white) through your AliExpress link. Gonna try to reduce buzzing or "coil whine" on some PC power supplies.
thank you brother! You helped a lot!
very helpful. thanks a lot
Hello. Thanks in advance. I need some advice about drone circuit insulation. Do you think Kafuter K-705 is a good product for do it?
Just wondering when i'm open my back case timex watch, there is a thin film like k1668 at the back case, is that same product? Whats is your opinion?
Hello VoltLog! What could be the best choice of tested Kafufer products to make small PCB with SMD components waterproof? This module has to work under water.
I want to apply the liquid metal on my laptop and there are some SMD pins sticking out. Can I use the Kafuter 704 to electrically insulate those pins against possible liquid metal leakage?
hello I would like help to know which kafuter glue would be the best suited to seal the nozzle plate on the printheads.
Wich is prefered to use betwin 705 and 5905 for made waterproof radio pcb-regulator RC/car? I guess also bit of thermal conductivity is necessary
would love to see you test the thermal conductivity of the Kafuter thermal adhesives
What would be the best way to do this?
@@jacobscoville2044 well I would imagine that you have one surface at a fixed temperature, you apply a known thickness of paste, and then you attach another surface with temp sensor, and measure the temp after a certain period of time. Something like that.
Thank you!
Many thanks for yet another great video! I wanted to ask you, I am a hobbyist car stereo modder (Android Head Units) and many times add hardware modules to the inside of the units but can't always use mechanical means of keeping them in place. I'm looking for a neutral silicone adhesive that is suited for car environments (so lots of vibrations and some heat). Which one would you recommend for attaching lighter components (such as DC DC converter boards) onto the Head Unit pcb? Thanks
Screw it my friend
Super útil !!!
FrSky uses the K-1668 to glue down wires and u.fl antenna connectors in radio control equipment.
I use K-5905 translucent on a regular basis for potting PCBs in metal enclosures. It works well, and cures completely in less than 12 hours. If you want similar performance but with a more liquid consistency/viscosity, try the K-5705.
I am not sure what the difference is between K-705 and K-5705, it looks like they have the same viscosity.
Do you think 705 is the right one for full cover waterproof radio board and regulator of R/C car ? Cheers
I think that will work fine. Cheers!@@MACYNET323
Thank you, very useful info! Do you know for how long it can be stored?
I would think general silicone adhesive rules apply. After it's been opened, you need to seal the cap as best as possible to prevent it getting into contact with air/moisture.
One general rule for keeping most glue tubes longer once opened is to seal them with a small piece of metal tape before screwing the cap back. It can be aluminum or copper tape. This has worked for me on many different types of glues.
Very nice review ! I'm gonna use the K-705 to secure the components of "PCB" USB lights.
How did the K-705 worked for you? I'm thinking of buying it to use on a capacitor.
@@joaosilvestre1468 I can't really say as I don't use that USB light really often, and not much long so it barely heat. All I can say is that it add a nice layer of smooth silicone on the PCB which protect the components if you put it on your keychain for exemple.
@@abc-iq9fk Cheers. I actualy realized that the glue I need is not the K-705 but the K-1668, the yellow hard one.
thanks for this
No worries!
I would like to find an substitute for Arctic Silver heat-sink epoxy. That stuff really sticks to a PCB. Just really expensive.
Kafuter actually makes this too! K-5203
I use GE Silicone 2 Premium Glue for securing capacitors. It's neutral cure. Costs about $5 at my local hardware store. Seems to work OK.
Canadian Tire carries these in Canada. Part #067-0852-4
Home Depot in US sells them, but not in Canada. 1st time I see that!
I like these tubes. They don't get as clogged on re-use, from using small amounts at a time.
@@ufohunter3688 I actually use the product that is specified as "glue" as opposed to "sealant". Seems like the same product but, I'm not sure if the formulation is the same. I work on tube amps that get hot and don't want it peeling off. For some reason the large home improvement stores don't sell it.
www.amazon.com/Silicone-Household-Glue-Seal-GE280/dp/B001JK7OJA
that stuff has a very short shelf life
I only buy it when I need it for a job and use it up quickly. Don't know what else I could use to glue down components?
@@acoustic61 you could use products that are designed for the purpose. I don't like throwing away things I spent good money on because it didn't last, or I used once. I also like to have supplies on hand, and not having to drive to a store when an idea strikes. (or waiting until they open)
There was a yellow glue that was infamous for turning to carbon after being exposed to heat for a long time. Is the yellow glue reviewed here the same stuff?
It does look suspiciously similar. I found references to "chloroprene glue" when people were discussing corroding brown/white PCB glue. This glue is described as "Hengda Kafuter K-1668 Yellow Chloroprene Rubber Adhesive", so, I think thats enough of a sign to never use this stuff. Unless its just for a prototype or similar.
I seriously hope it's not the same stuff. To be fair that problematic yellow glue was probably at least 10-15 years ago so things have changed since that happened. I have seen yellow glue on many modern electronics, think about all wireless routers, they all have yellow glue inside to hold either the small U.FL connectors to the motherboards or some small coax which is soldered directly to the motherboard.
Are the RTV silicone products acid cure (smell like vinegar) or neutral cure? Nice comparison; I'll be ordering two of these for an upcoming project, and your comparison told me all I need to know. Thanks!
Electronics safe silicone should be non acidic.
@@NiHaoMike64 Yeah, hence my question. The ChiComs aren't known for doing things properly.
From this list, they don't smell like vinegar, so I would guess they are neutral cure. Only the black K586 has a slightly different smell but that one isn't recommended for directly using on electronics anyway.
@@voltlog Thanks, that's good to know!
I've been using K-5905 for several years in this application (potting) and it has not caused any problems nor does it have any smell.
Maybe I missed it, but what's BJ underfill?
He said BGA under fill.
Just different accent. ;)
He was saying "BGA underfill" (ball grid array).
I can't say I've heard of BGA underfill. I've seen most reflowers just drop balls into a stencil and put the BGA on top. Is this underfill that glue that they use to hold parts when doing a double load PCB, ie, for parts upside down.
BGA underfill: a type of epoxy which is designed to mechanically secure a BGA to a PCB. It ca help with chips that run hot because it helps prevent the effects of thermal expansion or flexing in the PCB. Generally a laptop motherboard will have this around the CPU, GPU.
I wonder why my smd LEDs die after I apply epoxy onto them, specially Araldite.
You should try covering similar led and try turning em on while doing these tests
Could it be a case of mechanical stress? because the the glue might put mechanical stress as it contracts during curing. I have seen some pretty sensitive LEDs, especially the cheap ones from no-name brands. They would decapsulate at the slightest mechanical stress.
@@voltlog I think yes. Cause the glue shrinks a lot while curing. Even if the LEDs look ok underneath it
why would you use epoxy on the leds? normally you want them to sink the heat, not prevent the heat from dissipating.
@@stanimir4197 the tiny ones like 0604 or 0402, to make little wrist watches. You don't want solder to be in contact with anything, it's poisonous
You should do an aliexpress glue comparison
Большое спасибо за объяснение и тесты! Теперь ясно что для чего!
Nice english bro. You must be really smart to know only your native language 😂
@@CaltaTomas кому надо, тот переведёт в гугл переводчике или нажмёт кнопку "перевести" + плагины к браузеру никто не отменял. Но нужно быть рили смарт, и не быть тобой, чтобы это понять..)
@@AlkoSeltzer bruh 🤣
How do you get the hideous yellow gunk off a circuit board once it's started being conductive?.. I can't find one video of anyone doing that; goes to show what a pain it is to remove...
If you heat it with hot air, it will become soft and remove easily.
@@hhKJgf1M8a0rzt8hP Thanks. I would try that if I had to do it again. I just chipped it off, took ages, but it stopped my Subwoofer from making stupid noises... Well, either that fixed it or changing a broken diode did, not sure which did it.
@@Lloyd.B. I'm currently working on a Philips HTS9140 soundbar. PSU board is full of this stuff. On some of the polyester film capacitors, legs (the ones in direct contact with this adhesive) have been corroded to such an extent that they broke apart.
@@hhKJgf1M8a0rzt8hP People really need to stop putting it in anything - it should be illegal lol. Surely there is something better - ie something that does not start conducting electricity when it gets old >.
@@Lloyd.B.Yes, I agree. Devices get trashed prematurely because of a mistake like this. I normally use polyamide hot melt for securing elements on PCBs and for high heat applications I use Kafuter (the white one). So far so good.
Winner 704 & K1668 for good on surface 704 soft k1668 hard
Hey Voltlog! It seems you did not try the Green color "K-201G". It has different properties. Here is a link for that one www.aliexpress.com/item/4000418094306.html
[EDIT] The Green K-201G is another type of thread locker, similar to the red stuff. It can be used for fixing the position of dials and potentiometers. Especially if there are vibrations. For example in the car, or a mechanical device like a washing machine etc.
It's like the usual threalockers, different color means different hardness levels. It seemed like testing one of them would be enough.
K1668 looks like the infamous stuff that corrodes over time and causes oxidation of nearby parts.
It certainly has a similar yellow color but to be honest I haven't heard of that type of corrosion issues happening inside equipment produced in the past 5 years so maybe those kind of problems are not present anymore. I don't know, just guessing here.
Kafuter K704 ain't glue to fix position. Use oily glue to have strong glue position. Kafuter K704 only for decoration silicon and not fixing
Kafuter - a perfect German name ;)
Does it actually mean anything in German? Sure "sounds" German but does not seem to ring a bell on my German vocabulary. ;-)
Years ago I made a electronic cigarette before anyone even heard about it and didn't want anyone knowing so I potted all of the electronics with high temp extra hard 2 part epoxy and hard as a rock, non acidic and non conductive and they still work since the 90's. I got the idea from a fog machine when I played in Rock Bands, but I used a natural fluid, Vegetable Glycerin, Whisky to thin it out and give it the bite of inhaling a regular cigarette and expensive pure Nicotine which I used too much and made me high as a kite. The alcohol dissipated before use or I would have a fire, but they sold. Now they're everywhere.
"Flapping in the breeze". @eevblog should send you a free jar of vegemite for that...
...... Tom Hanks used it all !
maybe it's like computer.. kafjooter :D
I need to practice that 😂