I replaced some air conditioners at a daycare from the 60s that still has a functioning conventional system in it. It had a huge annunciator panel almost the size of a residential breaker panel with little incandescent bulbs to show where alarm was and large push buttons for silence and reset and lamp test. I set it off while i was brazing. The horn was very loud and sounded like a fog horn. There was only one strobe on the front outside of the building. The old motorized type with a red cover. It would be something cool to add to a collection.
QUESTION: is there a way i could do signal silence while leaving the strobe going? maybe by using an arduino to modulate the signal going to the device? i've been hoping this video would be created at some point! Thanks! Great video as always!
Some really old 115VAC fire alarm systems were set up this way (usually for really small buildings). they were set up as non-coded pull boxes wired directly to the signals fed off of a separate breaker.
Hey nic I wired this exactly as you showed. Detector blinks and I have 24vdc from a power supply. However I am only getting 4 volts on alarm (pressing test button) wired this way going to my horn strobe. Any idea why this may be happening?
No. A normal 2-wire detector cannot usually be hooked up to a burgular alarm system (unless its a older panel) as the current and/or voltage that is on the burgular panel's sensing terminals are too low to power up a detector. A pull station can however be easily be hooked up to a burgular alarm system as its just a passive switch like a door magnet. An older panel, sometimes usually puts out the whole panel voltage on the sensing terminal, meaning it can still be used with 2-wire detectors. For newer burgular panels, you either have to use a relay detector (a smoke detector, that contains a NC, C and NO terminal, or a NC+C terminal) or you have to use a so called "Smoke Detector card", which converts the 2 wire detectors to conventional burgular detector outputs, that then can be hooked up to a normal burgular panel. A Smoke detector card, uses some resistors and other passive components, to create the required voltage and current on the smoke detector line so the detectors can be powered up. Some newer burgular panels however designate some zones as "smoke zones", like "Zone 1 is a smoke detector zone". These can by programming, be switched to a "smoke detector zone" which means its characteristic is changed to be able to power up a smoke detector and also act on its detection. On some panels, like Paradox, the PGM outputs can be programmed as a smoke zone, meaning the output in conjunction with AUX+ will work as a "input" thus triggering a fire alarm when a smoke detector is triggered.
Basically, two wire smoke detectors act like pull stations, its like a switch. Also for four wire smokes, when in alarm you will need to use a separate switch for the power terminals of the four wire smoke detectors.
Awesome turtorial! Quick question: Is is possible to put a voice evac message on the alarm without a panel? I want to start doing drills in my house with voice instructions for my little siblings to understand what to do. The current smoke alarms in my house are pretty bad and just wanted to see if this could be an option. Thanks!
Let me tell you something me and my friend hooked up my fire alarm system and the pull station when you reset the Pull Station the alarm goes off and when you pull down the Pull Station the alarm doesn't go off
@@Stihl_theofficer the only thing I can think of is it's wired incorrectly and the device is usually getting the power and when the pull station is pulled and it is shorting out the power supply therefore no power for the device to operate
If you are referring to the LED in the pull station it definitely would not light up if you're using it with a device alone as that is a addressable pull station it has to be conventional.
@ ya that explains it. Because ya like you said the LED in the pull station light up but when I put the wires on positive and negative the light flashes but the alarm beeps.
If I wanted to wire multiple horn/strobes in my house without a panel, I'd simply wire those in series, to make an "alarm loop" and simply connect all my triggering devices to the alarm loop?
@@nics-systems-electric I’m confused though as you whould need to route power to both the station and smoke, without going thru one. Do you split the wires or?
Hi could anyone help me build my first fire alarm because i live in Poland and i cant find a trusted place to build fire alarms for cheap and i dont know much about smoke detector or panel i wanted to make my project without a panel so i need somone to help me with it and help me find the smoke detector like in the video simple to wire up and without a panel thank you all people that help me with it 😀❤
It would be really cool if I could attach conventional smoke fire alarm devices to a home automation/security system using relays and Arduinos or home assistant fire alarm panel integration
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I replaced some air conditioners at a daycare from the 60s that still has a functioning conventional system in it. It had a huge annunciator panel almost the size of a residential breaker panel with little incandescent bulbs to show where alarm was and large push buttons for silence and reset and lamp test. I set it off while i was brazing. The horn was very loud and sounded like a fog horn. There was only one strobe on the front outside of the building. The old motorized type with a red cover. It would be something cool to add to a collection.
Nice to see a new video! Useful for newer enthusiasts/beginner collectors.
Oh hey I found you!
@@stormboy4k ello!
QUESTION: is there a way i could do signal silence while leaving the strobe going? maybe by using an arduino to modulate the signal going to the device? i've been hoping this video would be created at some point! Thanks! Great video as always!
thank you so much i have both of those and i was trying to look for a vid on how to do it. love your channel plz keep up the great work!
Some really old 115VAC fire alarm systems were set up this way (usually for really small buildings). they were set up as non-coded pull boxes wired directly to the signals fed off of a separate breaker.
Nice instructional video Nic 😊❤😉😉
Can you do a video talking all about addressible fire alarm systems and how they exactly work. Love your videos. Keep it up!!!
This video was super helpful. Thanks Nick!
I actually found that they sell adapters that turn the barrel jack into screw terminals and vice-Versa.
what smoke detector did you use
Hey nic I wired this exactly as you showed. Detector blinks and I have 24vdc from a power supply. However I am only getting 4 volts on alarm (pressing test button) wired this way going to my horn strobe. Any idea why this may be happening?
Thank you for this! So basically I can install a fire alarm system in my house without a panel
No u can’t if u are using a lil simple toy fire alarm system it’s fine without
@@Granth_Manthat depends where you live in the world, and the code for that area.
You can, but it won't be compliant with NFPA 72 @@Granth_Man
It’s really up to you. There’s no rule that says you can or cant
@@MrJohnnyDIYyea. 😂
If you have a burglary alarm system, you could hook it up to that
No. A normal 2-wire detector cannot usually be hooked up to a burgular alarm system (unless its a older panel) as the current and/or voltage that is on the burgular panel's sensing terminals are too low to power up a detector. A pull station can however be easily be hooked up to a burgular alarm system as its just a passive switch like a door magnet.
An older panel, sometimes usually puts out the whole panel voltage on the sensing terminal, meaning it can still be used with 2-wire detectors.
For newer burgular panels, you either have to use a relay detector (a smoke detector, that contains a NC, C and NO terminal, or a NC+C terminal) or you have to use a so called "Smoke Detector card", which converts the 2 wire detectors to conventional burgular detector outputs, that then can be hooked up to a normal burgular panel. A Smoke detector card, uses some resistors and other passive components, to create the required voltage and current on the smoke detector line so the detectors can be powered up.
Some newer burgular panels however designate some zones as "smoke zones", like "Zone 1 is a smoke detector zone". These can by programming, be switched to a "smoke detector zone" which means its characteristic is changed to be able to power up a smoke detector and also act on its detection.
On some panels, like Paradox, the PGM outputs can be programmed as a smoke zone, meaning the output in conjunction with AUX+ will work as a "input" thus triggering a fire alarm when a smoke detector is triggered.
If you don’t have a pull station you can use a light switch
Basically, two wire smoke detectors act like pull stations, its like a switch. Also for four wire smokes, when in alarm you will need to use a separate switch for the power terminals of the four wire smoke detectors.
Awesome turtorial! Quick question: Is is possible to put a voice evac message on the alarm without a panel? I want to start doing drills in my house with voice instructions for my little siblings to understand what to do. The current smoke alarms in my house are pretty bad and just wanted to see if this could be an option.
Thanks!
Nice instructional video
I have a question. How can I set up a battery as a backup power source, connected to our main power source?
nice video Nic i always love these videos keep up the good work
Let me tell you something me and my friend hooked up my fire alarm system and the pull station when you reset the Pull Station the alarm goes off and when you pull down the Pull Station the alarm doesn't go off
Can you tell me how to fix that problem
If it's hooked up the exact same as this then that could only be a normally closed pull station or one with the option of both
@@nics-systems-electric it is a BG-12
@@Stihl_theofficer the only thing I can think of is it's wired incorrectly and the device is usually getting the power and when the pull station is pulled and it is shorting out the power supply therefore no power for the device to operate
@@nics-systems-electric so do I hook up the power supplies to the alarm?
That’s unique! - Riley
I love how he uses 12 volt batteries I use one to for my setup
Ha I stil have my mini fire alarm system using a buzzer as the alarm run on one 9v battery!
Is it possible for you to make a new video but with a NPG-12. When I tried to, the LED wouldn’t light up.
If you are referring to the LED in the pull station it definitely would not light up if you're using it with a device alone as that is a addressable pull station it has to be conventional.
@ ya that explains it. Because ya like you said the LED in the pull station light up but when I put the wires on positive and negative the light flashes but the alarm beeps.
pls get a Wheelock exceder. I'd love to see some of those on the channel.
Hes all Honeywell
He can do any brand.
If I wanted to wire multiple horn/strobes in my house without a panel, I'd simply wire those in series, to make an "alarm loop" and simply connect all my triggering devices to the alarm loop?
All the horns need to be in parallel with each other.
@@eDoc2020 essentially making its own loop, then just tie in all the actuating devices to complete that loop?
How do you do this with a wall plug? theres only 1 postitive. or am i missing somthing here
There is always only one positive and negative needed
@@nics-systems-electric I’m confused though as you whould need to route power to both the station and smoke, without going thru one. Do you split the wires or?
Hey nic you fire alarm detector and pull station and horn strobe and wire and battery 😊
Great video you're the best
Hi could anyone help me build my first fire alarm because i live in Poland and i cant find a trusted place to build fire alarms for cheap and i dont know much about smoke detector or panel i wanted to make my project without a panel so i need somone to help me with it and help me find the smoke detector like in the video simple to wire up and without a panel thank you all people that help me with it 😀❤
i also live in poland
I use 12v relay
I mean, I just use the car battery
Need have 12 volt relay
ALSO FIRST VIEWR
Awesome! Now just to import the detectors, pull stations, and hornstrobes to germany :/ Thats gonna cost alot of f*** money :(
It would be really cool if I could attach conventional smoke fire alarm devices to a home automation/security system using relays and Arduinos or home assistant fire alarm panel integration
Like 100!
Comfuzing 12:57
My name is simon obr
Power it with a POTATO.
FIRST
How about the Manual call point? I’m already do that but the i3 is dead
i3 detector is ion or photoelectric?
Photoelectric
@@joeycaridi3030 thanks
If i ready learn is i use 5v for safe
5 V won't be enough
@@nics-systems-electric like the Horing AHR-871 can use 5 v